Dry texture spray
The cosmetic composition addresses the issues of static hair fixation and harmful ingredients in conventional hairsprays by using a PVP/VA copolymer and safe particulates to create a flexible film, achieving a dry, matte, and natural shine effect with enhanced manageability and texture.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2020002722
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2019-03-29
- Filing Date
- 2020-03-20
- Publication Date
- 2025-12-12
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-03-20
AI Technical Summary
Conventional hairsprays fix hair in a static manner, lack a matte finish, and contain potentially harmful ingredients like aluminum and calcium, which are undesirable for health and aesthetics, while also providing an uncomfortable wet and sticky feeling during application.
A cosmetic composition using a PVP/VA copolymer, hydrophobic silica, modified starch, and a propellant, which creates a flexible film on hair without sticking, providing a dry, matte, and natural shine effect, while avoiding aluminum and calcium.
The composition allows for a relaxed, tousled hairstyle with natural shine and cooling sensation, free from sticky residue, using safe ingredients that enhance hair manageability and texture without harmful additives.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Dry texture spray
[0001] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for a dry texture spray and a spray containing this composition. Such a spray is suitable for treating keratin fibers and is particularly well-suited for treating human hair. Compared to a setting spray or conventional hairspray, this dry texture spray has no tacky phase, can be easily applied to the hair by hand, and allows the hair to be styled to create textured strands or textures. Thanks to the dry texture spray according to the invention, creative, natural looks that correspond to the latest trends can be playfully reshaped or reworked again and again. This is also possible in the so-called layering process, i.e., with repeated overspraying of the style.The spray is primarily supplied as an aerosol spray containing a propellant, although other forms are also possible.
[0002] In contrast, a conventional hairspray fixes the hair in such a way that it becomes impossible to reshape the hairstyle after the hold has ended. In this case, styling is only possible during the hold phase. Afterward, the hair is held together by the spray. The resulting hairstyle creates a relatively static and uninspired effect. Younger users, in particular, often want alternative products to, among other things, express their lifestyle with a relaxed look or style.
[0003] Products are desired that allow for a tousled, unfussy style. In some cases, unlike more conventional products, a matte finish is also desired. Some users find the wet and sticky feeling of conventional hairsprays during the drying phase uncomfortable. The spray according to the invention does not produce this feeling. Hair or skin, for example, the hands, that comes into contact with the spray feels dry and non-sticky immediately after application. This is referred to as an "instant dry" effect. It is also considered desirable to provide fullness, volume, a pleasant texture and feel, and a natural shine, and, where appropriate, the slight cooling effect of a propellant.
[0004] An underlying object of the invention results from the requirements described above. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention must therefore, without fixing the hairs together, allow a relaxed and tousled style, possibly with a certain matte appearance, which can be playfully created with the hands, and impart fullness, volume, pleasant texture and feel and natural shine and, where appropriate, produce a slight cooling effect with a propellant agent.
[0005] The use of aluminum in cosmetic products is now discouraged due to warnings that excessive absorption of aluminum in the human body may pose a health risk. Aluminum, particularly aluminum salts, can be absorbed through the skin, sometimes with much better bioavailability than the aluminum inevitably found in food. Therefore, some rather conservative officials or organizations committed to public health advise against the use of cosmetics containing aluminum.
[0006] Hair care products containing calcium do not pose any known or suspected health risks, but they do have an aesthetically undesirable effect. Even the relatively small amounts of calcium in tap water are such a nuisance to some people that they cope by using rainwater, distilled water, or bottled soft drinking water to wash and rinse their hair, or by using complexing agents to remove calcium from hair, etc. The reason for this is that calcium has a reputation for making hair dull in the long term and impairing its elasticity. While some users appreciate the matte effect of a hair care product, it is generally desirable to be able to remove this matte effect by brushing or washing and restore shine to the hair.Therefore, the use of calcium in hair care products is not pleasant for all users.
[0007] For the reasons mentioned above, particulate materials such as zeolites, i.e., aluminum silicates, or calcium carbonate, as well as other calcium salts, present drawbacks for their use in hair care products. In light of this, the underlying object of this invention is also to circumvent the use of these materials by providing alternatives.
[0008] The object underlying the invention is achieved by a cosmetic composition which comprises a film-forming polymer, a cosmetically acceptable solvent capable of dissolving the film-forming polymer, a particulate material and a cosmetically acceptable propellant and which is characterized in that the film-forming polymer is a PVP / VA copolymer and the particulate material comprises hydrophobicated pyrogenated silica and / or modified starch.
[0009] A wide range of film-forming polymers can be used in cosmetic products, particularly in hair care products. PVP / VA copolymers, i.e., polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, have proven suitable for the styling properties envisaged according to the invention. These have the ability to create a transparent, flexible, and oxygen-permeable film on various materials, for example, hair, which film can hold the hair without making it stick together. Polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers vinyls are linear polymers with a random distribution that are produced from monomers by radical polymerization.
[0010] The composition according to the invention contains a cosmetically acceptable solvent suitable for the polymer, i.e., a solvent considered harmless for human use and capable of dissolving PVP / VA copolymers. These requirements are met, for example, by ethanol or mixtures of ethanol and water. Ethanol or mixtures of ethanol and water can be used as the solvent according to the present invention. Water can be incorporated into the cosmetic composition with non-anhydrous ethanol, for example, 96% ethanol, or with another non-anhydrous ingredient, and / or can be added separately. Furthermore, the solvent can be denatured, for example, with t-butanol and Bitrex, i.e., denatonium benzoate. This is acceptable for cosmetic purposes and prevents, for example, the misuse of an alcoholic solvent and the accidental ingestion of the cosmetic composition by children.Besides its main function of dissolving the polymer and other ingredients, the solvent can also provide a pleasant sensation due to the cooling effect that occurs when it evaporates.
[0011] Although particulate materials have already been used in hair care products, as described at the beginning of this document, conventional materials are associated with significant drawbacks. For the compositions claimed herein, tests were carried out with harmless materials. Hydrophobicized fumed silica and modified starch proved suitable. These can be used as alternatives to each other or together. Additional particulate materials may also be present. The use of these particulate materials in combination with a PVP / VA copolymer unexpectedly proved to be particularly suitable for achieving the styling properties described at the outset, for example, for creating creative and natural looks and reshaping or reworking them repeatedly in a playful manner.An example of hydrophobicated fumed silica is Silica Dimethyl Silylate, for example Aerosil R 972, commercially available from Evonik. An example of modified starch is RICE PO4 NATURAL, a phosphate-crosslinked starch, commercially available from Argana Stàrke.
[0012] Although one embodiment of the invention described later relates to a corresponding cosmetic composition without a propellant and a pump atomizer filled with this composition, the dominant form on the market for sprayable hair care or styling products is a spray containing a propellant, i.e., an aerosol. Compared to a pump atomizer, this generally results in a finer spray and the freshness caused by the evaporation of The propellant can be perceived as pleasant. A suitable propellant is dimethyl ether.
[0013] The cosmetic composition preferably comprises, as a film-forming polymer, the PVP / VA 30 / 70 E copolymer, that is to say, a polymer composed of 30% by weight of vinylpyrrolidone and 70% by weight of vinyl acetate, the weight proportion of the polymer in the cosmetic composition preferably being from 0.5% to 15%, more preferably from 2% to 10%, and particularly preferably from 4% to 8%. With this polymer and within these concentration ranges, the advantageous effects of the invention described above can be obtained to an ever-greater extent.
[0014] The particulate matter of the invention further preferably comprises, as a modified starch, a rice-based crosslinked starch phosphate ester, also called phosphate-crosslinked starch, for example, commercially available from Argana Stârke under the name RICE PO4 NATURAL, the weight proportion of which in the cosmetic composition preferably represents 0.1% to 10%, more preferably 0.5% to 6%, and particularly preferably 1% to 2%. "Rice-based" means that the starch was obtained from rice. With this modified starch and within these concentration ranges, the advantageous effects of the invention described above can be achieved to an ever-greater extent. It should be noted that a phosphate-crosslinked starch can impart an aesthetically pleasing, silky sheen.Cross-linking does not cause the phosphate-crosslinked starch to swell, so it does not lead to undesirable clogging or enlargement of pores upon contact with the skin.
[0015] The particulate matter optionally comprises natural cellulose fibers, preferably bamboo, the proportion of which by weight in the cosmetic composition preferably being up to 1%, more preferably from 0.05% to 0.5%, and particularly preferably from 0.1% to 0.3%, and / or native tapioca starch, the proportion of which by weight in the cosmetic composition preferably being up to 1%, more preferably from 0.05% to 0.5%, and particularly preferably from 0.1% to 0.3%. An example of cellulose fibers is Sensocel bc 20, commercially available from SBB. An example of native tapioca starch is Tapioca Natural 9096, commercially available from Argana Stàrke. With these particulate materials and in these concentration ranges, the advantageous effects of the invention described above can be obtained to an ever greater extent.It should be noted that natural cellulose fibers have a matte effect and add volume. Native tapioca starch has a matte effect and gives a silky sheen. It is worth noting that, as we have already seen, a light matte finish and a silky, natural sheen are not fundamentally opposed. but are rather different shades in a spectrum ranging from very bright to completely matte.
[0016] Optionally, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a conditioning agent, preferably a quaternary ammonium compound and particularly preferably polyquaternium-11, wherein, if the conditioning agent is included, the weight proportion of the conditioning agent in the cosmetic composition is preferably up to 2%, more preferably from 0.5% to 1.8%, and particularly preferably from 1% to 1.6%. The conditioning agent makes human hair, especially when wet, more manageable and softer, thus facilitating styling. Polyquaternium-11, commercially available, for example under the name Gafquat 440, particularly in the concentrations mentioned, has proven particularly suitable for producing these effects.
[0017] Optionally, the particulate matter comprises, as hydrophobic silica, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, the weight proportion of which in the cosmetic composition is then preferably from 0.1% to 1%, more preferably from 0.5% to 0.9%, and particularly preferably from 0.7% to 0.8%. With particulate matter comprising Silica Dimethyl Silylate, and particularly with the preferred concentrations, the aforementioned effects desired within the scope of the invention can be obtained particularly well and in a particularly pronounced manner.
[0018] Furthermore, the particulate matter may also include talc, i.e., Mg3Si4O10(OH)2, the weight proportion of which in the cosmetic composition preferably represents up to 0.5%, more preferably from 0.05% to 0.3%, and particularly preferably from 0.1% to 0.2%. Talc can act as a carrier, release agent, and lubricant. It promotes the relaxed, natural hold that can be given to the hair and provides a slightly matte appearance. In particular, at the concentrations indicated, its addition makes it possible to achieve, to a particular extent, the effects desired within the scope of the invention.
[0019] Optionally, the cosmetic composition includes a moisturizing agent, preferably glycerol. If a moisturizing agent is used, its proportion by weight in the cosmetic composition is preferably up to 1%, more preferably 0.05% to 0.5%, and particularly preferably 0.1% to 0.3%. A moisturizing agent helps to revitalize hair. It is particularly useful for hair made dry and brittle by hair coloring agents or heat. Glycerol, in particular, is effective against dryness and brittle hair that has become so fragile that split ends can appear. Glycerol can prevent split ends and facilitate combing. To combat frizz and moisturize dry hair. The qualities of glycerol commonly used in the cosmetics industry, for example with a purity level of 99.5%, are suitable for inclusion in the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0020] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain water. The water may be included in the cosmetic composition with non-anhydrous ethanol, for example, 96% ethanol, or with another non-anhydrous ingredient, and / or may be added separately. If water is present in the cosmetic composition, its proportion by weight in the cosmetic composition is preferably up to 30%, more preferably up to 20%, and particularly preferably up to 10%. A water content helps to maintain a low volatile solvent content, which is desirable for some users. However, the ratio between water and another solvent cannot be arbitrarily changed in favor of water, because otherwise the other ingredients of the cosmetic composition would no longer be sufficiently dissolved.
[0021] The cosmetic composition optionally contains a fragrance. Commercially available fragrance blends are suitable for perfuming the cosmetic composition, for example RUBY SPLASH, Nordic Harmony 761556 or Cotton Folia 611079. For example, 0.05 to 0.15% by weight of fragrance, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, may be added.
[0022] Having described the cosmetic composition of the invention, its use for treating keratin fibers, particularly human hair, should also be mentioned within the scope of the invention. The cosmetic composition is specifically intended for spraying onto hair, which can then be styled to create a hairstyle, for example, by hand. For this purpose, the cosmetic composition can be packaged in standard aerosol containers, i.e., aerosol cans. Standard powder sprayer valves, for example, Coster NKRE250PRA800 / 184 / 5 / 8, and standard hairspray nozzles, for example, Coster V04.1718, are suitable for aerosols of this type containing the cosmetic composition.
[0023] Some users view the use of propellants with a critical eye and readily accept the somewhat different spraying properties of a pump atomizer. In view of this, as an alternative to a composition containing a propellant, a cosmetic composition according to the invention can also be a cosmetic composition without a propellant. In this case, the weight proportions of all the constituents of the composition, relative to the total weight of the composition, are in each case higher by a factor of 1 / 0.6 to 1 / 0.3 than in the case of the composition containing a propellant described above, which is obtained by removing the proportion of the propellant from the calculation. propulsion, the respective upper limit possibly needing to be adapted according to the laws of logic.
[0024] The range specifications cited elsewhere in this document apply to the composition containing a propellant. The ranges for the weight proportions in the composition without a propellant are therefore obtained by dividing the lower limit of a range for the composition containing a propellant by 0.6 and by dividing the upper limit of a range for the composition containing a propellant by 0.3. For the solvent content, for example, this gives 25% / 0.6 ≈ 41.7% and 60% / 0.3 ≈ 200%, a figure which must be adjusted to 98.9% by taking into account the other ranges, resulting in a range of 41.7% to 98.9%. The calculations for the other components and also for the preferred ranges can be performed in a similar manner.
[0025] A propellant-free composition can be combined and used, for example, with a pump atomizer. A ready-to-use container having a pump atomizer spray head and containing the propellant-free composition is also an embodiment of the invention.
[0026] The advantages of a propellant-free formulation lie in its improved productivity, meaning that the user can meet their needs from a relatively small packaging unit for a long time, and in the fact that a propellant is not released, which is generally considered advantageous in terms of air pollution control. In some cases, however, these advantages may be accompanied by other disadvantages, so propellant-free formulations should not be considered inherently advantageous. Rather, they should be viewed as an alternative by which a product can be optimized to meet specific requirements.
[0027] After the cosmetic composition according to the invention has been described in detail, examples of specific compositions are described in Table 1. The values indicated represent the percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0028] Table 1: [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ethanol at 96% denat. (t-Butano 1, Bitrex) 28.90 28.80 28.70 28.50 28.50 31.35 31.35 PVP / VA Copolymer 30 / 70 E 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 4.00 4.00 Aerosil R 972 0.75 0.75 - - - - - 99.5% Glycerol 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 RUBY SPLASH Fragrance 0.15 - - - - - - Dimethyl Ether 62.00 62.00 62.00 62.00 62.00 62.00 62.00 Talc - 0.15 - - - - - Nordic Harmony Perfume 761556 - 0.10 - - - - - Rice PO4 Natural - - 1.00 1.00 1.00 2.00 2.00 Gafquat 440 - - - - - - 1.50 Cotton Folia Perfume 611079 - - 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.05 0.05 Sensocel bc 20 - - 0.20 - 0.20 0.20 Tapioca Natural 9096 - - - - 0.20 0.20 0.20
Claims
Demands
1. Cosmetic composition, comprising: a film-forming polymer, a cosmetically acceptable solvent capable of dissolving the film-forming polymer, a particulate material and a cosmetically acceptable propellant, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is a PVP / VA copolymer and the particulate material comprises hydrophobicated pyrogenated silica.
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the film-forming polymer is a PVP / VA 30 / 70 E copolymer, the proportion of which by weight in the cosmetic composition represents from 0.5% to 15%, preferably from 2% to 10% and particularly preferably from 4% to 8%.
3. A cosmetic composition according to claims 1 or 2, wherein the particulate matter further comprises a cross-linked rice-based starch phosphate ester, the weight proportion of which in the cosmetic composition is from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 6% and particularly preferably from 1% to 2%.
4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, wherein the particulate matter comprises natural cellulose fibres, preferably bamboo, the proportion of which by weight in the cosmetic composition represents up to 1%, preferably from 0.05% to 0.5% and particularly preferably from 0.1% to 0.3% and / or native tapioca starch, the proportion of which by weight in the cosmetic composition represents up to 1%, preferably from 0.05% to 0.5% and particularly preferably from 0.1% to 0.3%.
5. Cosmetic composition according to claims 3 or 4, comprising a conditioning agent, preferably a quaternary ammonium compound and particularly preferably polyquaternium-11, wherein the weight proportion of the conditioning agent in the cosmetic composition is up to 2%, preferably from 0.5% to 1.8% and particularly preferably from 1% to 1.6%.
6. Cosmetic composition according to claims 1 or 2, in which the particulate matter includes Silica Dimethyl Silylate, the proportion of which by weight in the cosmetic composition represents 0.1% to 1%, preferably 0.5% to 0.9% and particularly preferably 0.7% to 0.8%.
7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein the particulate matter comprises talc, the proportion of which by weight in the cosmetic composition represents up to 0.5%, preferably from 0.05% to 0.3% and particularly preferably from 0.1% to 0.2%.
8. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising a moisturizing agent, preferably glycerol, the proportion of which by weight in the cosmetic composition is up to 1%, preferably from 0.05% to 0.5% and particularly preferably from 0.1% to 0.3%.
9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising water, the proportion of which by weight in the cosmetic composition is preferably up to 30%, more preferably up to 20% and particularly preferably up to 10%.
10. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair.