Device for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition

Abstract

Title: Device for Picking and Applying a Cosmetic Composition A device (1) for picking up and applying a cosmetic composition (P), particularly makeup, comprising a flexible support (2) defining an application surface (3), particularly a continuous surface, intended to receive the cosmetic composition (P), and at least two elements movable relative to each other, connected to the support (2), such that a relative movement of these two elements induces a mechanical stress on the support (2) and a deformation of the latter between a configuration (A) for picking up the cosmetic composition (P) and a configuration (B) for application. Figure for the abstract: Fig. 1

Description

Title of the invention: Device for sampling and applying a cosmetic composition Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a device for collecting and applying a cosmetic composition, in particular makeup, comprising a support defining an application surface adapted to receive the cosmetic composition. The invention also relates to the methods of manufacturing such a device and the methods of cosmetic treatment, in particular makeup, using it. Prior art

[0002] Many people apply makeup to their faces to hide certain imperfections or increase their physical attractiveness, trying to be as attractive and original as possible. This leads to the desire to wear makeup that is out of the ordinary, that is, makeup that other people do not wear and, if possible, will not be able to copy.

[0003] It is possible to achieve, with known makeup products, numerous makeup effects, particularly on the eyelids, but rather limited to solid color areas, or to a gradient based on two or three colors. In both cases, a colored powder or fluid is applied with the finger or with an applicator, for example a brush, and is spread by blending. This approach does not allow for the creation of complex patterns. The creation of gradients based on two colors is certainly possible but it is difficult to master this achievement, therefore pushing one to choose two fairly similar colors rather than choosing two clearly different colors. In doing so, the risks of error are limited, but the gradient is sometimes so subtle that it is barely visible.

[0004] A known approach consists of using printable films called decalcomania films, which, when applied, transfer a pattern onto the skin. This approach is only slightly satisfactory because it is very impractical, particularly for application in raised, curved or hollow areas, and a fortiori for complex areas such as the eyes, which combine curved and hollow areas. In the case where the user manages to apply the decalcomania film, some parts of the pattern are transferred and others are not. The result is therefore often unsightly and difficult to correct, requiring the user to remove their makeup and start again.

[0005] This disadvantage can be mitigated by providing small-area decal portions, it being understood that a raised area can be considered as a multitude of almost flat plots. However, this approach is tedious, because requiring multiple gestures, and creates risks of incorrect positioning of one portion in relation to the others. As a result, decal films have not developed as common makeup approaches.

[0006] Another approach consists of sticking stickers, particularly flexible ones, onto the skin. This approach is not satisfactory because it is necessary at some point to peel off the stickers, which then produces discomfort and tightness of the skin, particularly unpleasant in the eye area. In addition, if the application is not perfectly carried out, a particularly unsightly effect results. Furthermore, since the sticker is made of a flexible material, it is possible to conform it to a surface having an axis of curvature, such as a cylinder, but not to a more complex surface, such as a spheroid.

[0007] Applying a decal sheet or sticker to such an area involves stretching it in certain directions, producing restoring forces, and therefore creases or detachments, particularly at the edges. Thus, while the sticker solution may be suitable for certain rather flat areas, for example to reproduce a liner effect on the eyelid, it cannot be used for areas with hollows and rounded parts, in particular the eyelid, lip or nose area, unless a multitude of stickers are applied. In this case, we fall back on the positioning problems mentioned above for decals.

[0008] Another approach is to use a three-dimensional applicator on the surface of which a layer of colored material is placed. While this approach may be suitable for applying a flat color, it is not suitable for creating patterns.

[0009] There are applicators for transferring eyeshadow, such as the one from Huadi© Pretty: Glittering Eyeshadow to Seal. This applicator includes a rubber support roughly shaped like an eyelid. To apply makeup, apply the makeup with a brush to the hollow concave part of the support, then use the applicator to transfer the makeup to the eyelid. In the case of simple makeup, i.e. single-color, the applicator allows the color to be applied to a surface in a reproducible manner.

[0010] Tests have been carried out by painting or drawing a pattern on the surface of said support with a makeup fluid. But since the dexterity of users is generally limited, we generally end up with disappointing and asymmetrical results from one eye to the other, or from one day to the next.

[0011] Other tests have been carried out to use this type of applicator in association with a decal film. If the film is applied with the coloring layer facing outwards, the application of the film to the surface of the 3D applicator alters the pattern during the operation, in particular because of the effect of the fingers, leading to a partial transfer onto them. Therefore, only part of the pattern remains on the applicator, leading to limited transfer of the pattern to the face, and an imperfect end result.

[0012] If the decal film is applied with the coloring layer facing inwards and then the film is removed, the pattern ends up on the surface of the 3D applicator but, upon contact with the skin, there is limited transfer of the pattern to the face.

[0013] Internal tests have shown that to effectively transfer a pattern via such an applicator, the layer of coloring material would have to be easier to transfer to the skin, for example by using so-called "fragile" patterns, i.e. patterns made with a layer of coloring material which, when placed on a first surface, by weak contact with a second surface, disintegrates or breaks up to pass from the first to the second surface. These fragile patterns can be made in the form of loose powder or fluid.

[0014] However, there is no known suitable solution for using such a fragile pattern because application to the surface of the applicator is almost impossible without extreme precautions. Simple contact with the fingers, or the pressure produced by positioning on the surface of the applicator, damages the pattern, in particular causing it to blur and / or removing certain parts.

[0015] Another known approach consists of using a soft material, such as a sponge, and then depositing a layer of makeup composition on its surface. It is then sufficient to press the sponge onto the area to be made up. However, it is observed that the makeup composition spreads during the operation, creating sliding effects of the pattern, and damaging the pattern to the point of making it unrecognizable.

[0016] Application WO 2015 / 097613 describes a method for making up an area of ​​human keratin materials using a makeup device comprising a deformable substrate having a transfer surface intended to receive a cosmetic ink deposited via a digital printer and to come into contact with the keratin materials, the substrate being pressed against an imprint of the support by the action of deformation means such as a depression, before the transfer surface is brought into contact with the area to be made up by mechanical action. Such a device is of fairly complex construction. Statement of the invention

[0017] Consequently, there is a need to further improve the makeup of human keratin materials, to produce patterns, in particular on the face, including on areas with reliefs, with precision and easily and without risk of degradation of the patterns.

[0018] The present invention aims in particular to meet this need. Summary of the invention

[0019] The invention thus relates to a device for collecting and applying a cosmetic composition, in particular makeup, comprising a flexible support defining an application surface, preferably continuous, intended to receive the cosmetic composition, and at least two elements movable relative to each other, connected to the support, such that a relative movement of these two elements causes mechanical stress on the support and a deformation of the latter between a configuration for taking the cosmetic composition and an application configuration.

[0020] Preferably, the cosmetic composition is in the form of a transferable print, in particular forming a pattern.

[0021] By "human keratin materials" is meant the skin including the scalp, lips, nails, hair, and eyebrows, and preferably the lips or the skin of the face, in particular that of the eyelids or cheeks. The invention applies particularly to eyelid makeup.

[0022] The invention makes it possible to easily and without damaging a printed film on a flat transfer surface, using the first configuration of the support, i.e. the picking configuration.

[0023] Thanks to the invention, the makeup, in particular in the case of a pattern, is applied faithfully while following the relief of the area concerned, using the second configuration of the support, that is to say the application configuration. The application surface thus advantageously has a morphological shape, adapted to the area on which the composition is to be applied.

[0024] The support advantageously passes from one configuration to the other, and vice versa, without having to manually apply pressure to the application surface by touching it.

[0025] Configurations

[0026] In the first configuration of the support, the application surface may form a developable surface. In this configuration, the application surface may be a part of a cylinder. In this case, the support makes it possible in particular to take a transferable impression from the surface of an applicator roller or on the outer face of a curved pad. In this configuration, the application surface may have a shape opposite to that taken in the second configuration of the support.

[0027] Preferably, in the first configuration of the support, the application surface is substantially flat.

[0028] In the second configuration of the support, the application surface is preferably curved. In this configuration, the application surface may have an outwardly concave shape. This makes it possible to match the relief of the eyelid, for example.

[0029] The application surface, in the second configuration of the support, can thus have a shape adapted to the application of the cosmetic composition to an eyelid.

[0030] In a variant, in the second configuration of the support, the application surface has an outwardly convex shape.

[0031] In the second configuration of the support, the application surface may have a shape corresponding exactly to a predefined area of ​​the face or body of a user. In this case, the support is advantageously produced from an acquisition of the topography of at least part of said area, in particular by a 3D scan. This makes it possible to obtain a personalized application surface, made to measure.

[0032] The maximum displacement of the application surface between the two configurations of the support can be between 5 mm and 40 mm, better between 7 mm and 20 mm. This displacement is advantageously measured at one of the ends of the support, at its periphery, between the two configurations.

[0033] The device may only take the two configurations in a stable manner, the transition from one configuration to the other being carried out, for example, automatically due to the user's action on the device.

[0034] The device can be automatically returned, as soon as the user releases it, into one of the configurations by an elastic return member and / or by the specific shape of the support, when the latter is elastically deformable.

[0035] Support and moving elements

[0036] The support may comprise or be made of a deformable material, in particular thermoplastic and / or elastomeric. The support may be elastically deformable, being returned by elasticity to its initial configuration, which may be the application configuration or the sampling configuration, preferably the application configuration. The support may be single-layer or multi-layer.

[0037] The support may comprise at least one elastomer chosen from the following non-limiting list: butadiene-styrene, butadiene-nitrile, copolymerized isobutylene-isoprene, copolymerized chloroethylene-polysulfide, polysulfides, EPDM (ethylene-propylene-diene monomer) or polyethylene-propylene diamine or polyurethanes, or a silicone elastomer, for example VMQ (vinyl methyl silicone) or MQ, FVMQ (fluorosilicone), PVMQ (phenyl silicone).

[0038] The support may be non-absorbent. The support is advantageously non-porous, at least at the level of the application surface intended to receive the cosmetic composition. The application surface may be relatively smooth.

[0039] The device according to the invention comprises at least two elements movable relative to each other, as indicated above. One of these elements may be fixed relative to the support, in particular fixed at its center, and the other element may act at the periphery of the support.

[0040] In one example, one of said two mobile elements comprises at least two mechanical connections connecting by two respective contact points the support to a movable actuating element relative to the support, configured to be actuated by the user in order to change the configuration of the support. The aforementioned connections may be flexible, for example being wires.

[0041] The actuating element may at least partially define a gripping surface of the device.

[0042] The actuating element can be rotatable about a geometric axis relative to a material axis fixed to the support, in particular perpendicular to the support, to tension the connections when rotated so that the latter exert traction on the support at its periphery, so as to make it pass from one configuration to another.

[0043] In this particular implementation, the device can be configured so that the user can turn the actuating element until it reaches a stop. The return to the starting configuration can be done by releasing the actuating element, thanks to the inherent elasticity of the support.

[0044] In a variant, the connections are rigid, each formed by an arm connecting the actuating element to the support, the device being configured such that a movement of said actuating element acts on the connections and the support. The movement of the two aforementioned elements may be a pushing or pulling movement of one element relative to the other, which is transformed into a movement of the connection(s) connected to the support, for example a rotational movement of these connections.

[0045] For example, the device comprises an actuating element in the form of a pusher, on which the user presses to deform the support. This pusher may be movable relative to the body of the device, which defines the gripping part and may be provided with fins serving to retain the device when the user presses the pusher. The connections may be articulated on said body, and be moved by the movement of the pusher.

[0046] The fins may define two ergonomic supports configured to receive the fingers of a user to hold the device while another finger presses the pusher. To change configuration, the user presses the pusher which causes the links to pivot and deform the support. The body of the device is preferably fixed relative to the support, for example being fixed in the center of the latter.

[0047] In a variant, the support comprises an elastically deformable membrane defining the application surface and the device comprises, opposite said application surface, a support element distinct from said membrane, in particular made of a rigid material. The device advantageously comprises a rod carrying the membrane and capable of moving relative to the support element, such that by pulling the rod backwards, the membrane is pressed against the support element and takes its shape.

[0048] In this embodiment, the rod may comprise a relief configured to lock the support in the application configuration, in particular by snap-fastening the rod onto the support element. Alternatively, the rod is movable around its axis, and carries at least one relief allowing locking in position by a quarter turn.

[0049] The membrane can be fixed to the rod at a single point of contact, in particular central.

[0050] In yet another variant, the mobile elements are elastically deformable so as to be able to be brought closer to one another. The mobility of the elements thus comes from their deformation. The device may comprise two elastically deformable connections connecting the support to a fixed rod by two respective contact points, the connections being configured to come closer to one another. When the user presses on the connections between his thumb and index finger, the application surface, curved in a first configuration, advantageously flattens. The connections may comprise at least one elastomer, in particular rubber or silicone.

[0051] Said at least two mobile elements can be configured to exert on the support a mechanical force brought by the user, in particular via a gripping part of the body of the device.

[0052] Alternatively, the device is arranged to restore a stored mechanical force, in particular by a spring, to move from one configuration to another.

[0053] In one variant, the device comprises an electrical system, in particular a motor, for switching from one configuration to another.

[0054] In yet another variant, the device is configured so as to exert on the support a hydraulic or pneumatic force, in particular by means of inflated conduits, or a magnetic force, in particular by means of magnets, to pass from one configuration to the other.

[0055] The shape of the support is preferably reversibly modifiable between the first and second configuration.

[0056] Application surface and composition

[0057] To improve contact when removing the composition, the part of the support defining the application surface may comprise or consist of a layer of silicone elastomer.

[0058] The cosmetic composition is preferably in the form of a print on a flat transfer surface, upon contact with which the application surface is brought into the picking configuration of the applicator. The cosmetic composition may be deposited on the transfer surface in the form of printed colored patterns. The printing may be done on a plastic film.

[0059] The printer may be a digital printer, in particular a laser printer arranged to allow the formation by electrophotography or magnetophotography of a layer of composition having a pattern on a transfer surface from of at least one cosmetic toner and to deliver the toner present on the transfer surface in a state sufficiently free to allow its collection or transfer by contact with human keratin materials.

[0060] By "cosmetic toner" is meant a powdery cosmetic composition compatible with the formation of an image by an electrophotographic or magnetophotographic process such as those used in laser printers. The toner is cosmetic in the sense that it is compatible with application to human keratin materials. Depending on the surface to be made up, the formulation of the toner may be different. For example, for application to hair or nails, it is possible to use certain compounds that could not be used for application to the lips, for example.

[0061] The laser printer may be oven-disabled.

[0062] In variants, the printer is an inkjet printer ("InkJet"), for example thermal or piezoelectric, or a sublimation printer.

[0063] In the case of a cosmetic composition in the form of a transferable print, the print can be carried out in the form of screen dots, so as to form a half-tone image, for example, monochromatic or polychromatic.

[0064] The pattern formed by printing can be of any type. This pattern can reproduce the appearance of heterogeneities in relief and / or color of the skin, for example freckles or skin texture. The pattern obtained by printing can comprise several areas of different colors. Alternatively, the pattern obtained by printing is a flat color.

[0065] The cosmetic composition may be in fluid or powder form when carried by the application surface and before application to the keratin materials.

[0066] When it is fluid, the cosmetic composition has for example a viscosity ranging from ImPa.s to 500 mPa.s, and preferably from ImPa.s to 300 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0067] The viscosity of a composition used in the invention can be measured according to any method known to those skilled in the art, and in particular according to the following conventional method. At 25°C using a Rheomat 180, equipped with a spindle rotating at 200 rpm, those skilled in the art can choose the spindle for measuring the viscosity, from among spindles M1 or M2 or M3 or M4 on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to be able to carry out the measurement.

[0068] The cosmetic composition may be in the form of a transferable print corresponding to a layer of powder, containing in particular pigments, or to a thickness of fluid, deposited for example by inkjet, containing one or more colorants and / or one or more pigments.

[0069] The cosmetic composition may comprise one or more coloring materials. chosen from water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, powdery coloring materials such as pigments, lakes, pearls, and glitter, or even coloring polymers.

[0070] By “pigments” is meant particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the cosmetic medium, intended to color the cosmetic composition.

[0071] By “organic lakes” we mean particles formed from a dye fixed on a substrate.

[0072] By “mother-of-pearl” we mean iridescent particles of any shape, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized.

[0073] The pigments may be white, black or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.

[0074] Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments and lakes, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

[0075] The nacres can be chosen from white nacres such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacres such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0076] Among the water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of ponceau disodium salt, alizarin green disodium salt, quinoline yellow, amaranth trisodium salt, tartrazine disodium salt, rhodamine monosodium salt, fuchsin disodium salt, xanthophyll, methylene blue.

[0077] Among the fat-soluble dyes, mention may be made of Sudan Red III (CTFA: D&C Red 17), lutein, quinizarin green (CTFA: D&C green 6), alizurol purple SS (CTFA: D&C violet no. 2), Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow, curcumin, carotenoid derivatives such as lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin or capsantein, and mixtures thereof. The coloring polymers are generally copolymers based on at least two distinct monomers, at least one of which is a monomeric organic dye. Such polymeric dyes are known to those skilled in the art. Reference may, for example, be made to documents: US-5,032,670; US-4,999,418; US-5,106,942; US-5,030,708; US-5,102,980; US-5,043,376; US-5,104,913; US-5,281,659, US-5,194,463; US-4,804,719; WO92 / 07913, or even EPI048282.

[0078] The cosmetic composition may comprise one or more coloring materials, in particular photochromic pigments, i.e. coloring materials which have the property of changing color when they are irradiated by a light source of a certain frequency, then of returning to their initial color, or a similar color, when the irradiation is stopped. Among the photochromic coloring materials, we may in particular cite:

[0079] - mineral photochromic compounds, complexes and more particularly alu- doped minosilicates and metal oxides and hydrates, such as those described in WO-A-02 / 36083,

[0080] - photochromic compounds of naphthopyrans, in particular of 3H-naphtho-[2,lb]-pyrans or 2H-naphtho-[l,2-b]-pyrans such as 3,3-di(4-methoxyphenyl)-6-morpholino-3H-naphtho[2,lb]pyran, 3-phenyl-3-(4-morpholinophenyl)-6-morpholino-3H-naphtho[2,lb]pyran, 3-phenyl-3-(4-piperidinophenyl)-6-morpholino-3H-naphtho[2,lb]pyran, 3-phenyl-3-(4-piperidinophenyl)-6-carboxymethyl-9-N-dimethyl-3H-naphtho[2,lb]p yrane, 2-phenyl-2-(4-piperidinophenyl)-5-carboxymethyl-9-N-dimethyl-2H-naphtho[1,2-b]p yrane. Such compounds are described in application EP-A-1410785,

[0081] - diarylethenes or fulgides compounds such as those described in the application EP-A-938887.

[0082] The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more fillers, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight.

[0083] By “fillers” is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which it is manufactured. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

[0084] The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic shape (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Examples include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon) powders (Orgaso1 from Atochem), poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile like Expancel (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, calcium carbonate precipitate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Maprecos Silica Beads), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

[0085] The cosmetic composition may further comprise an additional polymer such as a film-forming polymer. The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials. Among the film-forming polymers capable of being used in the composition, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of the radical type or of the polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures, in particular acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulosic polymers such as nitrocellulose.

[0086] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0087] When the composition comes from a cosmetic toner as described above, this toner may comprise, in addition to a coloring agent, an electrical charge control compound, a particular additional filler, a lubricant, a wax and / or a binder. Preferably, the particles of the toner have an average size of between 1 and 16 μm. The toner comprises, for example, pigments having a particle size of between 1 and 10 μm.

[0088] The composition may comprise both a hydrophilic phase comprising one or more compound(s) miscible with water at 20°C and an oily phase comprising one or more compound(s) immiscible with water.

[0089] At an ambient temperature of 20°C, the hydrophilic phase can form a dispersed phase in a continuous phase formed by the oily phase; this gives a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion. In one variant, the oily phase forms at 20°C a dispersed phase in a continuous phase formed by the hydrophilic phase; this gives an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The hydrophilic phase and / or the oily phase can each comprise one or more coloring matters.

[0090] The composition may comprise a surfactant for obtaining an oil-in-water emulsion, or a water-in-oil surfactant. It may thus be chosen from silicone or hydrocarbon surfactants, the HLB of which will be chosen according to the desired direction of the emulsion, for example less than 8 for W / O emulsions, advantageously preferably from 3 to 7, and for example greater than or equal to 8 for direct emulsions.

[0091] Examples of silicone surfactants include those of the alkyldimethicone copolyol type and of the dimethicone copolyol type.

[0092] As non-silicone surfactants, mention may be made of non-ionic surfactants such as (poly)oxyalkylenated (C2-C3 alkyl), (poly)glycerolated derivatives of alcohols, esters, ethers comprising at least one hydrocarbon group with at least 10 carbon atoms; optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, (poly)glycerolated sorbitan ethers or esters; alkylpolyglucosides and mixtures thereof.

[0093] The anionic surfactants may be chosen, for example, from alkyl (ether) sulfates, sulfonates, (alkyl)phosphates, salts, in particular metal salts, of C10-C30 acids; these surfactants comprising at least one hydrocarbon group with at least 10 carbon atoms and being or not (poly)oxyalkylenated (C2-C3 alkyl); as well as their mixtures

[0094] The compound(s) of the oily phase may have a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 5% by weight.

[0095] The compound(s) of the oily phase may be chosen from oils usually used in cosmetics which may be chosen from natural or synthetic, hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated, possibly branched oils, alone or as a mixture.

[0096] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil capable of remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour and having in particular a vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, non-zero, less than 0.01 mm Hg (1.33 Pa).

[0097] In particular, mention may be made of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular of vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oil (or vaseline), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parléam), perhydrosqualene, macadamia oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cotton oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil, shea butter; linear, branched or cyclic esters, having more than 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid;esters derived from long-chain acids or alcohols (i.e. having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms), in particular esters of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a higher fatty acid having from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain having from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular C12-C36 esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, ; 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate or lactate, di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin or diglycerin trü-sostearate; higher fatty acids, especially C14-C22, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols, especially C16-C22, such as cetanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0098] Mention may also be made of decanol, dodecanol, octadecanol, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as parleam; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as, for example, Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols;polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol. ;

[0099] Among the non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of non-phenylated silicones, such as in particular polysiloxanes (also called dimethicone). Also suitable are phenylated silicones (in other words comprising at least one phenyl substituent) such as, for example, phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, alone or in mixtures.

[0100] Among the volatile compounds, mention may be made of non-silicone volatile oils, in particular C8-C16 isoparaffins such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane.

[0101] Volatile, linear or cyclic silicone oils may also be suitable, and preferably linear, such as in particular decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and their mixtures.

[0102] More preferably, mention may be made of alkanes which are liquid at room temperature, volatile or not, and more particularly decane, heptane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclohexane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Among the preferred compounds of the oily phase, mention may be made, for example, of isododecane (boiling temperature: 180°C), isopropyl myristate (boiling temperature: 168°C), isostearyl alcohol (boiling temperature: 331°C), isodecyl neopentanoate (boiling temperature: 272°C), isononyl isononanoate (boiling temperature: 285°C), oleyl alcohol (boiling temperature: 315°C), 2-octyldodecanol (boiling temperature: 358°C), isopropyl palmitate (boiling temperature: 340°C), isopropyl isostearate (boiling temperature: 361°C), and their mixtures.

[0104] The oil may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 60% by weight relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 40%, preferably ranging from 15% to 70%, particularly preferably ranging from 2% to 25%.

[0105] The oily phase may also comprise bodies that are solid at room temperature, such as waxes.

[0106] By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 120°C. By bringing the wax to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make it miscible with any oils present and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained in the oils of the mixture. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

[0107] The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point above 25°C and better still above 45°C. As waxes that can be used in the composition, mention may be made of beeswax, Carnauba or Candellila wax, paraffin, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene or Fischer Tropsch waxes, silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy-dimethicone having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms.

[0108] The nature and quantity of the waxes depend on the mechanical properties and textures sought. As an indication, the composition, in particular in the form of an emulsion, may contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and better still from 1 to 20% by weight.

[0109] Manufacturing process

[0110] The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method of manufacturing a device for collecting and applying a composition. cosmetic according to the invention, in which the application surface of the support is given, in the second configuration, a shape adapted to the area of ​​the body or face on which the composition is intended to be applied, said area being in particular an eyelid.

[0111] In the second configuration, the relief of the support can correspond exactly to the relief of the area to be made up, thus forming a “counter-mold” of said area.

[0112] At least one part of the device comprising the application surface is advantageously produced by machining a preform or by additive manufacturing, in particular by 3D printing. In a variant, a mold used for the manufacture of at least one part of the device comprising the application surface is advantageously produced by machining a preform or by additive manufacturing, in particular by 3D printing.

[0113] The method may include a prior step of making an impression. The impression may in particular be made by direct molding of the area to be made up or from such a molding, indirectly, for example using an intermediate mold.

[0114] The support may have been produced from an acquisition, in particular optical, of the topography of at least part of said area of ​​human keratin materials, in particular by a 3D scan.

[0115] To perform the 3D scan, any 3D scanner capable of capturing the volume and dimensions of the area concerned can be used. The 3D scan is advantageously a scan by projection of light fringes, but any other structured light is possible.

[0116] A file readable by a numerically controlled machining machine or by a 3D printer is advantageously generated, which can be stored, in particular automatically, for example in the cloud or on a central server.

[0117] A translated digital copy of a surface, possibly reworked, obtained from the 3D scan is advantageously created, then a smoothed volume of the part of the device comprising the application surface or the mold between said surface and its translated copy can be generated.

[0118] Together

[0119] The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a cosmetic assembly comprising, within the same packaging, at least one sampling and application device according to the invention, and a plurality of transferable prints, intended to be sampled by the application surface of the support in its first configuration, in particular different from each other by their composition and / or by their pattern, in particular as defined above.

[0120] The prints are preferably obtained by laser or inkjet printer.

[0121] Cosmetic treatment process

[0122] The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method of cosmetic treatment of an area of ​​human keratin materials, in particular for making them up, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition to said area using a sampling and application device according to the invention, a method in which the device is used in its first configuration to sample said composition, the latter being in particular in the form of a transferable impression, then the device is brought into its second configuration by acting on at least one of said two mobile elements, before applying the composition.

[0123] In an exemplary embodiment, the composition is in the form of a print according to a predefined pattern, the method comprising a step of choosing and / or producing the pattern by a user and transmitting, by a device connected to at least one printer carrying out the printing, information associated with this pattern.

[0124] The device may be a computer, an advanced mobile phone, also called a "smartphone", or a touch-screen tablet. The device may be connected physically and / or via a data exchange network to said printer. During the printing step, the system may be at least partly assembled to the printer.

[0125] The characteristics stated above for the methods apply to the device, and vice versa. Brief description of the drawings

[0126] The invention may be better understood by reading the detailed description which follows, of non-limiting examples of its implementation, and by examining the attached drawing, in which:

[0127] [fig. 1] figure 1 represents an example of a device for sampling and applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention,

[0128] [fig.2] figure 2 is a longitudinal sectional view along II-II of the device of the figure 1,

[0129] [fig.3] figure 3 illustrates an example of two configurations that the support for a device according to the invention,

[0130] [fig.4] figure 4 represents a second example of a device according to the invention,

[0131] [fig.5] figure 5 represents a third example of a device according to the invention,

[0132] [fig.6] figure 6 represents a fourth example of a device according to the invention, and

[0133] [fig.7], [Fig 8] and [Fig 9] Figures 7, 8 and 9 illustrate an example of the use of a sampling and application device according to the invention. Detailed description

[0134] Figure 1 illustrates an example of a device 1 according to the invention for sampling and applying a cosmetic composition P.

[0135] In this example, the device 1 comprises a support 2 defining a surface application device 3 intended to receive the cosmetic composition P, and two elements 5, 7 movable relative to each other to deform the support 2 in order to pass from a sampling configuration A to a makeup configuration B. The device is configured so as to exert a force on the support 2 so that the latter passes from one configuration to the other. The first configuration A, represented in broken lines, is dedicated to the sampling of the cosmetic composition P. The second configuration B, represented in solid lines, is dedicated to the application to an area of ​​human keratin materials, an eyelid in this first example.

[0136] Preferably and as illustrated, the application surface 3 is, in the second configuration of the support 2, curved, and more particularly concave towards the outside, so as to be of a shape complementary to the morphology of the eyelid, whereas, in the first configuration of the support 2, the application surface 3 is substantially flat.

[0137] In the example considered, the support 2 is partially flexible, and the device comprises mechanical connections 5 each connecting one of the edges 2a of the support 2 to an actuating element 7, also constituting a gripping part of the device 1, connected to the support 2 at its center 2c. In this example, the connections 5 are flexible, being for example wires.

[0138] The actuating element 7 of the device 1 is rotatable about a geometric axis X relative to a fixed material support axis 8. The rotation of the actuating element 7 tensions the links 5 so that the latter exert a force on the support 2, so as to make it pass from one configuration to the other, as visible in figures 1 and 2.

[0139] The maximum displacement Em between the two configurations A and B of the support 2 is between 5 mm and 20 mm. This displacement Em is measured at one of the ends 2a of the support 2, at its periphery, between the two configurations A and B, as illustrated in Figure 1.

[0140] A user wishing to use the device 1 just described, brings it, in its configuration A, into contact with the cosmetic composition P, for example a print comprising a pattern, to remove it. The pattern is thus transferred onto the application surface 3, and the user then turns the actuating element of the gripping part to bring the support 2 into its configuration B, then applies the application surface 3 bearing the pattern to the area to be made up by bringing them into contact.

[0141] Figure 3 shows an example where, in the sampling configuration A, the curved application surface has a shape opposite to that taken in the support configuration B.

[0142] In the variant shown in Figure 4, the connections 5 are rigid, being formed each by an arm connecting the actuating element of the device 1 to one end 2a of the support 2. The actuating element is in the form of a pusher 10 movable relative to the body of the device 1 defining the gripping part 7, the connections 5 being articulated on said body.

[0143] The body of the device defining the gripping part 7 is, in this example, provided with fins 12a and 12b serving to retain the device 1 when the user presses the pusher 10. These fins define two ergonomic supports configured to receive the fingers of a user to hold the device 1 while another finger presses the pusher 10.

[0144] To change configuration, the user presses the push button 10 which causes the links 5 to pivot and deform the support 2.

[0145] In the variant shown in Figure 5, the support 2 comprises an elastically deformable membrane 13 defining the application surface 3 and the device 1 comprises, opposite said application surface, a support element 14 distinct from the membrane 13, for example made of a rigid material. The device 1 further comprises a rod 15 carrying the membrane 13 and capable of moving relative to the element 14. By pulling the rod 15 backwards, the membrane 13 is pressed against the element 14 and takes its shape.

[0146] The rod advantageously comprises a relief, not shown, configured to block the support 2 in the application configuration B, in particular by snap-fastening the rod onto the support element.

[0147] In another variant, shown in Figure 6, the device 1 comprises two elastically deformable links 22, 23 connecting by two respective contact points 2a the support 2 to a fixed rod 24, the links being configured to move closer to each other when the user presses on the latter between his thumb and index finger, which leads to the flattening of the application surface, curved in a first configuration.

[0148] In the examples described, the mobile elements are configured to restore to the support 2 a mechanical force brought by the user, via an actuating element 7 of the device 1.

[0149] In one embodiment of the invention, in the second configuration of the support 2, the application surface 3 has a shape adapted to a predefined area of ​​the face or body of a user. In this case, the support is produced from an acquisition of the topography of at least part of said area, in particular by a 3D scan.

[0150] As described previously, at least a part of the device 1 comprising the application surface 3, or a mold used for its manufacture, can be produced by machining a preform or by additive manufacturing, in particular by 3D printing. Examples

[0151] An example of makeup of an eyelid using a device 1 according to the invention will now be described, in relation to figures 7 to 9.

[0152] In this example, the cosmetic composition P is in the form of various prints of colored patterns on a plastic film 19 using a laser printer whose oven has been deactivated, visible in figure 7. The device 1 used corresponds to that of figure 4.

[0153] The user presses the pusher 10 to bring the support 2 into its configuration A, and places the application surface 3 in contact with one of the prints to remove the pattern, as visible in Figure 7. In this configuration, the application surface 3 is substantially flat. The pattern is thus transferred onto the application surface 3, as visible in Figure 8.

[0154] The device 1 is then maneuvered to bring the support 2 into its configuration B by releasing the pusher 10 to be able to apply the pattern to the area to be made up by bringing them into contact. In this case, the application surface 3 has a shape corresponding exactly to the eyelid, that is to say concave towards the outside.

[0155] After removing the device 1, a makeup is then obtained which perfectly reproduces the desired pattern, as illustrated in figure 9, without degradation.

[0156] The application surface 3 can then be cleaned for subsequent application.

[0157] The invention is not limited to the examples which have just been described.

[0158] Other types of support 2 and mobile elements can be used, as well as other materials for their production.

Claims

Claims

1. Device (1) for sampling and applying a cosmetic composition (P), in particular makeup, in particular in the form of a transferable print, the device comprising a flexible support (2) defining an application surface (3), preferably continuous, intended to receive the cosmetic composition (P), and at least two movable elements (7, 14, 15, 22, 23) relative to each other, connected to the support (2), such that a relative movement of these two elements causes mechanical stress on the support (2) and a deformation of the latter between a configuration (A) for sampling the cosmetic composition (P) and an application configuration (B), the application surface (3) being substantially flat in the first configuration (A) for sampling the support (2) and having a morphological shape, adapted to the area on which the composition is to be applied,in the second application configuration (B) of the support (2).,

2. Device according to claim 1, wherein, in the first configuration (A) of the support (2), the application surface (3) forms a developable surface.

3. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, in the second configuration (B) of the support (2), the application surface (3) has a concave or convex shape towards the outside.

4. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, in the second configuration (B) of the support (2), the application surface (3) has a shape adapted to the application of the cosmetic composition (P) on an eyelid.

5. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, in the second configuration (B) of the support (2), the application surface (3) has a shape corresponding exactly to a predefined area of ​​the face or body of a user.

6. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, in which one of said two movable elements comprises two mechanical links (5) connecting by two respective contact points (2a) the support (2) to an actuating element (7) movable relative to the support (2), configured to be actuated by the user in order to change the configuration of the support.

7. Device according to claim 6, in which the links (5) are flexible.

8. Device according to claim 6 or 7, in which the actuating element (7) is rotatable about a geometric axis (X) relative to a material axis fixed to the support (8) to tension when rotated the links (5) so that the latter exert traction on the support (2) at its periphery, so as to make it pass from one configuration to the other.

9. Device according to claim 6, wherein the links (5) are rigid, each formed by an arm connecting the actuating element (10) to the support (2), the device (1) being configured such that a movement of said actuating element (10) acts on the links (5) and the support (2).

10. Device according to the preceding claim, comprising an actuating element in the form of a pusher (10), on which the user presses to deform the support (2), this pusher preferably being movable relative to the body of the device (1) defining a gripping part (7), the connections being in particular articulated on said body and moved by the movement of the pusher (10).

11. Device according to claim 10, wherein the body of the device (1) is provided with fins (12a, 12b) serving to retain the device when the user presses the pusher (10).

12. Device according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the support (2) comprises an elastically deformable membrane (13) defining the application surface (3) and the device comprises, opposite said application surface (3), a support element (14) separate from said membrane (13), in particular made of a rigid material, and a rod (15) carrying the membrane (13) and capable of moving relative to the support element (14), such that by pulling the rod (15) backwards, the membrane (13) is pressed against the support element (14) and takes its shape.

13. Device according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the movable elements (22, 23) are elastically deformable so as to be able to be brought closer to each other.

14. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said at least two movable elements are configured to exert on the support (2) a mechanical force brought by the user, in particular via a gripping part (7) of the body of the device (1).

15. Method of manufacturing a device (1) for sampling and for applying a cosmetic composition (P) according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the application surface (3) of the support (2) is given, in the application configuration (B), a shape corresponding exactly to the area of ​​the body or face on which the composition (P) is intended to be applied, said area being in particular an eyelid.

16. Manufacturing method according to the preceding claim, in which the support (2) is produced from an acquisition of the topography of at least part of said zone, in particular by a 3D scan.

17. Manufacturing method according to claim 15 or 16, in which at least part of the device (1) comprising the application surface (3), or a mold used for its manufacture, is produced by machining a preform or by additive manufacturing, in particular by 3D printing.

18. Cosmetic assembly comprising, within the same packaging, at least one device (1) for sampling and application according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and a plurality of transferable prints, intended to be sampled by the application surface (3) of the support (2) in its first configuration (A), in particular different from each other by their composition and / or by their pattern.

19. Assembly according to the preceding claim, in which the prints are obtained by laser or inkjet printer.

20. Method for cosmetic treatment of an area of ​​human keratin materials, in particular for making them up, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition (P) to said area using a device (1) for sampling and application according to any one of claims 1 to 14, method in which the device (1) is used in its first configuration (A) to sample said composition (P), the latter being in particular in the form of a transferable print, then the device (1) is brought into its second configuration (B) by acting on at least one of said two mobile elements, before applying the composition (P).

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