Cosmetic and personal care compositions containing cationic surfactants and anionic compounds
Cosmetic compositions with non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymers, cationic surfactants, and fatty alcohols at pH < 5 enhance conditioning and moisturizing benefits, improving rinsability and reducing residue on keratinous substrates.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021003536
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-04-07
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-18
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-04-07
AI Technical Summary
Consumers seek cosmetic and personal care products that provide conditioning and moisturizing benefits to keratinous substrates like hair and skin while addressing damage from chemical treatments and external factors, with a focus on rapid rinsability and removability without leaving residue.
Cosmetic compositions containing non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymers, cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols, and cosmetically acceptable solvents, maintained at a pH below 5, which enhance conditioning, moisturizing, and rinsability by reducing viscosity upon contact with water.
The compositions effectively condition and moisturize hair and skin, improve rinsability, and reduce residue, providing improved hair feel and manageability, even after chemical treatments.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic and personal care compositions containing cationic surfactants and anionic compounds Field of disclosure
[0001] The present disclosure relates to cosmetic and personal care compositions containing cationic surfactants, anionic compounds selected from anionic polymers and fatty compounds. The compositions are particularly useful for imparting conditioning or moisturizing properties to keratinous substrates such as hair or skin and exhibit improved rinsability properties. Also disclosed are methods of using the cosmetic compositions. CONTEXT
[0002] Many consumers desire to use cosmetic and personal care compositions that impart conditioning and moisturizing properties to keratinous substrates such as hair and skin. For example, consumers continually seek skin and scalp care products that can provide enhanced conditioning and moisturizing benefits. They also seek hair care products or cosmetic hair compositions to care for hair that has been subjected to chemical treatments such as oxidative dyes, hair straighteners, or permanent wave treatments. Many of these chemical treatments are alkaline in nature and may leave residual alkalinity on the treated hair.
[0003] Although dyes or color changing compositions can effectively change the color of hair, and straightening, smoothing, perming, and waving compositions can effectively change the shape of hair, these chemical treatments can damage hair fibers and / or irritate the scalp. In addition, external factors such as high humidity, which makes hair very frizzy, difficult to style, and causes it to lose its shape and style, or mechanical, physical, or other stresses, such as brushing, combing, tangling, and heat, can also damage or negatively impact the feel and appearance of hair.
[0004] Thus, in order to reduce or avoid damage to the hair, as well as to improve the cosmetic performance of the compositions, different types of hair products have been developed by manufacturers with the aim of helping consumers improve hair quality, hair feel and hair management. reliability as well as reducing or eliminating hair frizz and conditioning / moisturizing hair, especially when damaged. These products are typically supplied as shampoos, conditioners, or treatments such as after- or pre-shampoo treatments, and after- or pre-conditioning treatments which may be leave-in or rinse-out products.
[0005] Additionally, consumers desire hair and skin care products, particularly rinse-off cleansing and conditioning products, that can be removed quickly or efficiently without leaving noticeable residue and that, at the same time, provide conditioning, moisturizing, or other cosmetic benefits such as improved hair or skin feel.
[0006] Thus, the subject matter of this invention relates to a composition and method for treating keratinous substrates such as hair or skin, wherein the composition provides both care and rinsability / removability properties.
[0007] The object of the invention is also to provide a composition and a method for treating hair that has been chemically treated or damaged, such as hair that has been contacted with a basic or alkaline treatment, summary of the disclosure
[0008] It has surprisingly been found that the compositions and methods for treating keratinous substrates such as hair or skin according to the present invention provide conditioning and moisturizing benefits to the keratinous substrate, as well as other desirable properties such as rapid and effective rinsability or removability attributes.
[0009] One aspect of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing:
[0010] (a) at least 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least a non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer;
[0011] (b) at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;
[0012] (c) at least one fatty alcohol; and
[0013] (d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;
[0014] wherein the pH of the composition is less than about 5.
[0015] Another aspect of the invention relates to methods of treating keratinous substrates such as hair or skin, for example, conditioning or moisturizing hair or skin. In some embodiments, the method comprises applying any of the compositions described herein to keratinous substrates. In one or more embodiments, the composition is applied to hair, including curly hair, as part of a hair care routine. In some embodiments, the composition is applied after shampooing the hair. In some embodiments, the composition is a rinse-off product. In some embodiments, the rinse-off composition is used as a post-treatment product, after chemically treating the hair or treating the hair with an alkaline product. Such a product can provide conditioning, moisturizing, and repair benefits to chemically treated hair. In some embodiments, the composition is used as a rinse-off skin care product that can cleanse and, at the same time, provide conditioning and moisturizing benefits. Brief description of the drawings
[0016] The implementation of the present technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, in which:
[0017] [Fig. 1] [Fig. 1] includes graphs showing that the viscosity of the inventive composition changes significantly while the viscosity of a comparative composition does not change significantly when the pH of each composition is increased.
[0018] [Fig. 2] [Fig. 2] includes graphs showing that the viscosity of the inventive composition changes significantly while the viscosity of a comparative composition does not change significantly when each composition undergoes a 3x dilution with water.
[0019] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] includes photographs of strands of hair treated with the inventive composition and the comparative composition immediately after (initial) treatment and after two days in a humid chamber at 80% relative humidity.
[0020] [Fig.4] [Fig.4] includes photographs of strands of hair treated with the comparative composition and the inventive composition immediately after (initial) treatment and after two days of air drying.
[0021] It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentality shown in the drawings. detailed description of the disclosure
[0022] The term "cosmetic composition" encompasses many types of compositions intended to be applied to keratinous substrates such as hair or skin. When the substrate is hair, the compositions may be hair lotions, emulsified creams, conditioners, hair masks, etc., which may be used as leave-in or rinse-out treatments or products. A cosmetic composition, such as a hair cosmetic composition according to the invention, is characterized by its ability to provide a cosmetic benefit (such as conditioning) to the substrate. Non-limiting examples of benefits that may be conferred to the hair by the compositions of the present invention include one or more of the following: frizz control, curl definition, discipline, volume control, manageability, softness, shine, suppleness, hydration (no dry feeling) and natural feel. At the same time, even when the compositions of the present disclosure contain fatty compounds such as fatty alcohols, silicones and vegetable or plant-based oils, it is surprising to find that a feeling of lightness and a feeling of cleanliness (non-greasy, non-oily) are imparted to the hair.
[0023] The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure typically include:
[0024] (a) at least 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least a non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer;
[0025] (b) at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;
[0026] (c) at least one fatty alcohol; and
[0027] (d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;
[0028] wherein the pH of the composition is less than about 5.
[0029] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition has a lamellar gel network.
[0030] In one embodiment, the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters selected from methyl, ethyl and ethylhexyl esters.
[0031] In one embodiment, when the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer comprises an alkyl group, the alkyl group has less than 5 carbon atoms.
[0032] In one embodiment, the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is not neutralized or partially neutralized.
[0033] In one embodiment, the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is an aqueous dispersion.
[0034] In one embodiment, the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is a latex polymer.
[0035] In one embodiment, the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is an acrylate copolymer.
[0036] In one embodiment, the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is present in an amount of about 0.3 to about 5 wt%, or about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, or about 0.6 to about 4 wt%, or about 0.6 to about 3 wt%, or about 0.7 to about 2.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0037] In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is chosen from:
[0038] - the quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula below:
[0039]
[0040] in which the groups R8 to Ru, identical or different, represent a group linear or branched aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 30 atoms of carbon, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0041] - a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline;
[0042] - a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula:
[0043] Ri7 Rl9 R] g N \CII2h N R21 R18 &20 AK
[0044] in which R[6 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, Rn is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Rna, Risa, Ris, Rw, R2o and R2i, identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates; and
[0045] - cationizable surfactants, including jointly cationizable surfactants with an acid neutralizer selected from compounds of general structure R4-A-R5 —B,
[0046] in which R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 1 to 4 C atoms, A is chosen from:
[0047] And
[0048]
[0049] OH — Q — bl and B is chosen from
[0050] in which R6 and R7, identical or different, are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and
[0051] Rs — N-1¼ K k
[0052] wherein R8 and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, Rio is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms,
[0053] - or mixtures thereof.
[0054] In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is chosen from quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula:
[0055]
[0056] in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 atoms of carbon, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more atoms of oxygen, Rn is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Rna, Risa, Ris, Rw, R2o and R2i, identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
[0057] In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from cationizable surfactants, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer selected from compounds of general structure R4-A-R5—B,
[0058] wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 1 to 4 C atoms, A is selected from:
[0059] QH —— C - N ““
[0060] and B is chosen from
[0061] Rs ...... R y
[0062] in which R6 and R7, identical or different, are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and
[0063] R s — M — Rio X k
[0064] wherein R8 and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, Rio is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms.
[0065] In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyl-dimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, ara-chidamido-propyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldi-methylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitami-dopropyl dimethylamine,and mixtures thereof.
[0066] In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant includes behentrimonium chloride.
[0067] In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant includes cetrimonium chloride.
[0068] In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride or a mixture thereof.
[0069] In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleylhydroxyethylimidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0070] In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant includes stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0071] In one embodiment, the at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, or about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, or about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, or about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0072] In one embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristyl alcohol ristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), li-gnoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol), myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), decyl alcohol, un-decyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
[0073] In one embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount of about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, or about 1 to about 8% by weight, or about 1.5 to about 6% by weight, or about 2 to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0074] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one amino-functional silicone selected from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof.
[0075] In one embodiment, the at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent is selected from water, organic solvents and mixtures thereof.
[0076] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition has a pH ranging from about 2.5 to about 4.8 or from about 2.7 to about 4.5 or from about 3 to about 4.5, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0077] In one embodiment, the at least one amino-functional silicone is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, or preferably about 0.3 to about 4 wt%, or more preferably about 0.4 to about 3 wt%, or about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0078] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one fatty compound selected from at least one fatty compound of plant origin including oils of plant origin (such as butters of plant origin, triglycerides of plant origin), hydrocarbon oils, esters, or a mixture thereof.
[0079] In one embodiment, the at least one fatty compound is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10 wt. %, about 0.1 to about 9 wt. %, or about 0.2 to about 8 wt. %, or about 0.3 to about 7 wt. %, or about 0.4 to about 7 wt. %, or about 0.4 to about 6.5 wt. %, or about 0.5 to about 6 wt. %, or 0.5 to about 5 wt. %, or about 0.5 to about 4.5 wt. %, or preferably, about 1 to about 4 wt. %, or more preferably, about 1 to about 3 wt. %, or even more preferably, about 1.5 to about 2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0080] In one embodiment, the at least one fatty compound includes at least one ester selected from fatty esters, cetyl esters, isopropyl esters, glyceryl esters (glycerol), dialkyl esters, diesters with octanoic acid and propylene glycol (e.g., mixture of propylene glycol diesters of caprylic and capric acids, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, or mixtures thereof, preferably from cetyl esters, isopropyl esters, glyceryl esters, or mixtures thereof.
[0081] In one embodiment, the at least one ester is present in an amount of about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, such as about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, about 0.05 to about 4.5% by weight, or such as about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0082] In one embodiment, the total amount of the at least one fatty alcohol is greater than the total amount of the at least one fatty compound in the compositions of the present invention, and ranges from about 10:1 to about 1.5:1, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the at least one fatty alcohol is greater than the total amount of the at least one fatty compound, and is about 9:1, 8:1, 7:1, 6:1, 5.7:1, 5.5:1, 5:1, 4:1, 3:1, 2:1 or 1.5:1.
[0083] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkylpolyglucosides, polysorbates, or mixtures thereof.
[0084] The cosmetically acceptable solvent is chosen from water, organic solvents, or a mixture thereof.
[0085] In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent comprises water.
[0086] In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent comprises water and at least one organic solvent.
[0087] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention typically includes:
[0088] (a) from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.7 to about 2.5% by weight, of at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer including an acrylate copolymer;
[0089] (b) from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, of at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;
[0090] (c) from about 2 to about 7% by weight, or from about 3 to about 7% by weight, or from about 4 to about 7% by weight of at least one selected fatty alcohol;
[0091] (d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;
[0092] (e) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of at least one silicone;
[0093] (f) optionally, from about 0.05 to about 2% by weight of at least one surfactant non-ionic;
[0094] (g) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of at least one compound fat selected from vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and
[0095] wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 3 to about 4.5;
[0096] all weights being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0097] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention typically includes:
[0098] (a) from about 0.7 to about 0.9% by weight of at least one anionic polymer non-hydrophobically modified including an acrylate copolymer;
[0099] (b) from about 0.5 to about 2.5 wt.% of at least one surfactant ca tionic, including a cationizable surfactant and selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, lino-leamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-pro-pyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristami-dopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, or mixtures thereof;
[0100] (c) from about 4 to about 7% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol selected from alcohol cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristyl or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof;
[0101] (d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;
[0102] (e) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of at least one silicone chosen from amino-functional silicones;
[0103] (f) optionally, from about 0.05 to about 2% by weight of at least one surfactant non-ionic;
[0104] (g) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of at least one compound fat selected from vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and
[0105] wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 3 to about 4.5;
[0106] all weights being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0107] In one embodiment, the present disclosure is intended to treat or contact a keratinous substrate such as hair or skin with any of the cosmetic compositions described above.
[0108] In one embodiment, the keratinous substrate to be treated with any of the described cosmetic compositions is hair.
[0109] In one embodiment, the present disclosure relates to a method comprising applying to the hair any one of the cosmetic compositions described above, wherein the method imparts to the hair one or more of:
[0110] - packaging benefits;
[0111] - hair repair benefits;
[0112] - frizz control;
[0113] - manageability;
[0114] - a definition of loops;
[0115] - a smooth appearance;
[0116] - sweetness; or
[0117] - flexibility.
[0118] In one embodiment, the method described above comprises or includes a step of alkalizing the hair or forming pre-alkalized hair before applying the cosmetic composition to the hair.
[0119] In one embodiment, the present invention also relates to a quick wash or quick rinse method, the method comprising:
[0120] 1. the application to a keratinous substrate such as hair or skin, of a cosmetic composition comprising:
[0121] (a) from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.7 to about 2.5% by weight, of at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer including an acrylate copolymer;
[0122] (b) from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, of at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;
[0123] (c) from about 2 to about 7% by weight, or from about 3 to about 7% by weight, or from about 4 to about 7% by weight of at least one selected fatty alcohol;
[0124] (d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;
[0125] (e) optionally, at least one silicone;
[0126] (f) optionally, at least one non-ionic surfactant;
[0127] (g) optionally, at least one fatty compound chosen from non-silicone oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and
[0128] wherein the pH of the composition is less than about 5.
[0129] In one embodiment, the method further comprises a step of rinsing the keratinous substrate with external water.
[0130] Thus, in one embodiment, the present invention further relates to a quick wash or quick rinse method, the method being a method of improving the rinsability of a composition from keratinous substrates such as hair or skin and comprising the combination:
[0131] (a) from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.6 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.7 to about 2.5% by weight, of at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer including an acrylate copolymer;
[0132] (b) from about 0.2 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, of at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;
[0133] (c) from about 2 to about 7% by weight, or from about 3 to about 7% by weight, or from about 4 to about 7% by weight of at least one selected fatty alcohol;
[0134] (d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;
[0135] (e) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight of at least one silicone;
[0136] (f) optionally, from about 0.05 to about 2% by weight of at least one surfactant non-ionic;
[0137] (g) optionally, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of at least one compound fat selected from vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and
[0138] wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2.5 to about 4.8;
[0139] (h) all weights being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition ca pillar.
[0140] When the cosmetic composition is brought into contact with external water, the viscosity of the composition decreases, which makes it possible to improve the spreading and ease of application of the composition to the skin or hair.
[0141] In various embodiments, when the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure is to be applied to hair, any of the methods described above includes applying the cosmetic composition to hair that has been previously contacted or pretreated with an alkaline or basic product or composition, including an oxidative hair dye composition or a hair straightening / smoothing composition.
[0142] It has also been surprisingly discovered that the combination of the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer and the at least one cationic surfactant in a composition for treating hair, resulted in faster and improved rinsing ease of the composition when the pH of the composition is increased, such as when the composition is contacted with an alkaline or basic composition or substrate or when the composition is applied to pre-alkalized hair. As the pH of the composition increases, the viscosity of the composition decreases significantly. With faster and improved rinsing ease, the rinsing step uses less water.
[0143] Thus, in one embodiment, the present invention further relates to a quick wash or quick rinse method, the method comprising applying to pre-alkalized hair or hair having a basic or alkaline pH, a cosmetic composition comprising:
[0144] (a) about 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least a non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer;
[0145] (b) at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;
[0146] (c) at least one fatty alcohol;
[0147] (d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;
[0148] (e) optionally, at least one silicone;
[0149] (f) optionally, at least one non-ionic surfactant; and
[0150] (g) optionally, at least one fatty compound chosen from non-silicone oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and
[0151] wherein the pH of the composition is less than about 5.
[0152] Thus, in one embodiment, the present invention further relates to a method for improving the deposition of conditioning agents and / or active agents on keratinous substrates, the method comprising:
[0153] 1. the application to a keratinous substrate such as hair or skin, of a cosmetic composition comprising:
[0154] (a) about 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least a non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer;
[0155] (a) at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant;
[0156] (b) at least one fatty alcohol;
[0157] (c) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent;
[0158] (d) optionally, at least one silicone;
[0159] (e) optionally, at least one non-ionic surfactant; and
[0160] (f) optionally, at least one fatty compound chosen from non-silicone oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and
[0161] wherein the pH of the composition is less than about 5.
[0162] In one embodiment, any of the methods described above further comprises a step of rinsing the keratinous substrate with water.
[0163] The cosmetic compositions described herein may be in any suitable physical form. Suitable forms include, but are not limited to, low to moderate viscosity liquids, lotions, milks, cream-gels, cream-emulsions, pastes, clays, conditioners, masks, and the like. In one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are rinse-off compositions.
[0164] The cosmetic compositions may be packaged in a variety of different containers, such as, for example, a ready-to-use container. Non-limiting examples of useful packages include tubes, jars, caps, unit dose packages, and bottles, including squeezable tubes and bottles, pump bottles, and spray bottles.
[0165] Non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer
[0166] The at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer of the present invention is not hydrophobically modified with a long alkyl chain. In one embodiment, when the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer comprises an alkyl group, the alkyl group has less than 5 carbons.
[0167] In various embodiments, when the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer comprises an alkyl group, the alkyl group has from 1 to 4 carbons or from 1 to 3 carbons or no more than 2 carbons.
[0168] In one embodiment, the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer includes copolymers of a (meth)acrylic acid and its esters, referred to herein as a (meth)acrylate copolymer. In some embodiments, the copolymer is an acrylate copolymer, which, as used herein, refers to a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and their simple esters, e.g., lower alkyl esters such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, and pentyl esters. In some embodiments, the polymer refers to a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and vinyl monomers, (meth)acrylamide.Such copolymers, which may be in the form of an aqueous dispersion, are commercially available from many sources, including ACUDYNE 180, ACUDYNE BOLD BH Dow Chemical, LUVIFLEX SOFT from BASF, LUVIMER 36D from BASF, DERMACRYL C . from Akzo Nobel and SYNTRAN 5760 from Interpolymer. In some embodiments, the acrylate copolymer is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic acid ethyl ester and methacrylic acid methyl ester, and is commercially available from Daito Kasei under the trademark DAITOSOL 5000AD (CAS #2135-39-1, which is an aqueous emulsion having a solids content of about 50 percent.
[0169] In one embodiment, the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is a latex polymer, which, as used herein, refers to an aqueous dispersion of a polymer.
[0170] In one embodiment, the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is not neutralized or partially neutralized.
[0171] In one embodiment, the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is an acrylate copolymer.
[0172] The total amount of the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer may vary but is typically from about 0.3 to about 5 wt%, or from about 0.5 to about 4 wt%, or from about 0.6 to about 4 wt%, or from about 0.6 to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.7 to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 0.7 to about 2% by weight, or from about 0.7 to about 1.5% by weight, or from about 0.7 to about 1.25% by weight, or from about 0.7 to about 1% by weight, or from about 0.7 to about 0.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0173] Thus, the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in an amount of about 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.5, 0.55, 0.6, 0.65, 0.7, 0.75, 0.8, 0.85, 0.9, 0.95, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, or 5% by weight.
[0174] Cationic surfactants including cationizable surfactants
[0175] According to the disclosure, the compositions of this document may include at least one cationic surfactant. The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that can be positively charged when contained in the compositions according to the disclosure. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functional groups that are cationizable in the composition according to the disclosure. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, trice- tylmonium, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, iso-stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, be-henamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldi-methylamine, arachidamido-propyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, ara-chidamidoethyldimethylamine, sicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0176] In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, steara-midopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-propyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0177] In some embodiments, the cationic surfactant comprises cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. Behentrimonium chloride, also described by technical names that include 1-docosanaminium, N,N,N-trimethyl-, chloride, and N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride, is the quaternary ammonium salt that has the formula:
[0179] (I)
[0180] In some embodiments, the amount of each of the at least one cationic surfactant is from about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, or from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, or from about 0.2 to about 4 wt%, or from about 0.3 to about 3 wt%, or from about 0.5 to about 3 wt%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. In certain particular embodiments, the at least one cationic surfactant, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer, is present from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, and an acid neutralizer is present from about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
[0181] Thus, any one of the at least one cationic surfactant is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of about 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.2, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.8, 4, 4.2, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.8, 4.9 or 5 by weight.
[0182] Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, ceethylamine hydrofluoride, chloroallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quatemium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oleyl ether phosphate, POE oleyl ether phosphate (3) diethanolammonium, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride,pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethylpropylenediamine dihydrofluoride, sulfrimonium chloride and hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide.
[0183] The cationic surfactant(s) may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0184] In some cases it is useful to use salts such as the chloride salts of quaternary ammonium compounds.
[0185] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one Cg-Cso hydrocarbon chain.
[0186] A. Among the examples of quaternary ammonium salts which may be cited in particular, one may include: those corresponding to the general formula below:
[0187]
[0188] in which the groups R8 to Ru, identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and, in certain embodiments, from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms, in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. Aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6 alkylene), C1-C30 alkylamide, C12-C22 alkyl amido C2-C6 alkyl, C12-C22 alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C1-C4 alkyl sulfates and C1-C4 alkyl- or C1-C4 alkylarylsulfonates.
[0189] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), those which are preferred are, on the one hand, the tetraalkylammonium salts, for example the dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.
[0190] A. an imidazoline quaternary ammonium salt, such as, for example, those of the formula below:
[0191]
[0192] in which R[2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Rn represents an atom hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ru represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC4 alkyl group, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups, in certain embodiments, comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Rn and Rn, in some embodiments, denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, RM, in some embodiments, denotes a methyl group, and R[5, in some embodiments, denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is marketed, for example, under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo;
[0193] A. a diammonium or quaternary triammonium salt, especially of the formula:
[0194] R|7 R]9 Rns — N--.(CH2J3—N — R21 2X- Rjg R2o
[0195] in which R[6 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R[7 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Rna, Risa, Ris, Rw, R2o and R2i, identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, marketed by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, marketed by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
[0196] A. Cationic / cationizable surfactants, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer, for example of general structure R4-A-R7—B
[0197] in which R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 1 to 4 C atoms, A is chosen from:
[0198] And QH
[0199] and B is chosen from
[0200] R® . . . . . . . Ry
[0201] in which R6 and R7, identical or different, are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and
[0202] Rs — K k
[0203] wherein R8 and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, Rio is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms.
[0204] In some cases, R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in some embodiments, 12 to 22 carbon atoms and R5 is a straight or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and A, B, R6 to R10 are the same as above.
[0205] Suitable non-limiting examples are stearyloxypropylamine, palmityloxy-propylamine, stearyloxypropyldimethylamine, stearyloxypropyldiethylamine, stearyloxyethyldimethylamine, stearyloxyethylamine, myristyloxypropylamine, myristyloxy-propyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropylamine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palm-mitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl butylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmi- tamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, laura-midopropylamine, lauramidopropyl méthylamine, lauramidopropyl diéthylamine, lau-ramidopropyl dibutylamine, lauramidopropyl butylamine, lauramidopropyl dipro-pylamine, lauramidopropyl propylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxyéthylamine, lauramidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, stéaramidopropyl amine, stéaramidopropyl dimé-thylamine, stéaramidopropyl diéthylamine, stéaramidopropyldibutylamine, stéaramidopropyl butylamine, stéaramidopropyl dipropylamine, béhénamidopropyl propylamine, béhénamidopropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, béhénamidopropyl hydroxyé-thylamine, béhénamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, béhénamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, béhénamidopropyl amine, béhénamidopropyl méthylamine, béhénamidopropyl diéthylamine, béhénamidopropyl dibutylamine, béhénamidopropyl butylamine, béhénamidopropyl dipropylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl méthylamine,dipal-mitamidopropyl ethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl butylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl propylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauramidopropyl amine, dilauramidopropyl methylamine, dilauramidopropyl butylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearamidopropyl amine, distearamidopropyl methylamine, dibehenamidopropyl propylamine, dibehenamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenamidopropyl tri hydroxyethylammonium chloride, distearylamidopropyl dimethylammonium chloride, dicetylamidodihydroxyethylammonium chloride, palmitoylpropyl amine, palmitoylpropyl methylamine, palmitoylpropyl diethylamine, palmitoylpropyl dibutylamine, palmitoylpropyl butylamine, palmitoylpropyl dipropylamine, palmitoylpropyl propylamine, palmitoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine,palmitoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl amine, myris-toylpropyl méthylamine, myristoylpropyl diéthylamine, myristoylpropyl dibutylamine, myristoylpropyl butylamine, myristoylpropyl dipropylamine, myristoylpropyl propylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxyéthylamine, myristoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, stéa-roylpropylamine, stéaroylpropyl méthylamine, stéaroylpropyl diéthylamine, stéa-roylpropyl dibutylamine, stéaroylpropyl butylamine, stéaroylpropyl dipropylamine, bé-hénylpropyl propylamine, béhénylpropyl dihydroxyéthylamine, béhénylpropyl hydroxyéthylamine, béhénylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, béhénylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, béhénylpropyl amine, béhénylpropyl méthylamine, béhénylpropyl diéthylamine, béhénylpropyl dibutylamine, béhénylpropyl butylamine, béhénylpropyl dipropylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl méthylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl éthylamine, dipalmi- , tylpropyl butylamine, dipalmitylpropyl propylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauroylpropyl amine, dilauroylpropyl methylamine, dilauroylpropyl butylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxypropylamine, distearylpropyl amine, distea-rylpropyl methylamine, dibehenylpropyl propylamine, dibehenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitylpropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearylpropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenylpropyl trihydroxyethylammonium chloride, distearylpropyl dimethylammonium chloride, dicetyldihydroxyethylammonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
[0206] The cationizable surfactants or amphiphilic surfactants may be selected from fatty alkylamines, in some embodiments, fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the fatty dialkylamines may be fatty dimethylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl sulfamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0207] Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0208] Non-polymeric mono-, di- and / or tri-carboxylic acids may be used to "neutralize" the fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the one or more non-polymeric mono-, di- and / or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid. Non-limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid and mixtures thereof. In particular, lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. Fatty alcohol
[0209] According to the disclosure, the compositions of this document include at least one fatty alcohol.
[0210] By "fatty alcohol" is meant an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylenated (in particular neither oxyethylenated nor oxypropylenated) nor glycerolated. Fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, in which R denotes a saturated (alkyl) or unsaturated (alkenyl) group, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0211] The fatty alcohol(s) may be liquid or solid. In some cases, it is preferable for the hair cosmetic compositions to include at least one solid fatty alcohol. Suitable solid fatty alcohols include those that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (25°C, 780 mmHg), and that are insoluble in water, i.e., have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.
[0212] Solid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0213] In particular, mention may be made, alone or in a mixture: lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol); myristic or myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol).
[0214] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetyl-stearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0215] Liquid fatty alcohols, in particular those of C10-C34, preferably have branched carbon chains and / or have one or more, preferably 1 to 3 double bonds. They are preferably branched and / or unsaturated (C=C double bond), and contain from 12 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0216] The liquid fatty alcohols may be represented by: R-OH, wherein R denotes a C12-C24 branched alkyl group or an alkenyl group (comprising at least one C12-C24 C=C double bond), R being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is a branched saturated alcohol. preferably, R does not contain a hydroxyl group. These alcohols include oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-octyl-l-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-l-decanol, 2-decyl-l-tetradecanol, 2-tetradecyl-l-cetanol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohol is 2-octyl-l-dodecanol.
[0217] In some cases, the hair cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty alcohols selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and a mixture thereof. In some cases, the hair cosmetic compositions preferably include cetearyl alcohol.
[0218] According to the various embodiments, the amount of each of the at least one fatty alcohol is from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, or from about 2 to about 9% by weight, or from about 3 to about 8% by weight, or from about 3.5 to about 7% by weight, or from about 4 to about 7% by weight, or from about 4.5 to about 6.5% by weight, or from about 5 to about 6% by weight, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
[0219] In some preferred embodiments, the total amount of the at least one fatty alcohol is at least 3% by weight, or at least 3.5% by weight, or at least 4% by weight, or at least 4.5% by weight, or at least 5% by weight, or at least 5.5% by weight, or at least 6% by weight, or is in an amount of about 3 to about 10% by weight, or about 3.5 to about 10% by weight, or about 4 to about 9% by weight, or about 4.5 to about 8.5% by weight, or about 4.5 to about 8% by weight, or about 5 to about 7.5% by weight, or about 5.5 to about 7% by weight, or about 5.5 to about 7% by weight, or any combination, suitable sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0220] Thus, any one of the at least one fatty alcohol is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in an amount of approximately 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 5.8, 6, 6.2, 6.5, 7, 7.5 or 8% by weight. Cosmetically acceptable solvent
[0221] The cosmetically acceptable solvent may be chosen from water, organic solvents or mixtures thereof.
[0222] In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent in the compositions of the present invention comprises water.
[0223] In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent in the compositions of the present invention comprises at least one organic solvent.
[0224] In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent in the com positions of the present invention comprises water and at least one organic solvent. Water
[0225] The amount of water in the hair cosmetic compositions may be at least 50% by weight, or from about 50 to about 95% by weight, from about 50 to about 90% by weight, from about 60 to about 90% by weight, from about 70 to about 88% by weight, from about 75 to about 86% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Organic solvents
[0226] Non-limiting examples of organic solvents include, for example, alcohols (e.g., C18, C20, or C16 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols and glycols (e.g., glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.) and a mixture thereof.
[0227] Non-limiting examples of organic solvents include monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycerin or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. The organic solvents may be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
[0228] Other non-limiting examples of organic solvents include alkanediols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, mono ether; propylene glycol ethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane and a mixture thereof.
[0229] Polyhydric alcohols are useful. Examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.
[0230] In some embodiments, the at least one organic solvent (non-silicone solvents) includes one or more of propylene glycol, glycerin, ethanol, iso-propanol, caprylyl glycol and benzyl alcohol.
[0231] The total amount of organic solvent(s) in the hair cosmetic composition, if present, may vary but is typically from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of water-soluble solvent(s) is from about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the hair cosmetic composition.
[0232] In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable solvent in the compositions of the present invention comprises water and an organic solvent selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol or ethanol or a mixture thereof.
[0233] In one embodiment, the at least one organic solvent is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 6 wt%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt%, from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Amino-functional silicones
[0234] The silicones may be hydrophobic or, in some cases, may be functionalized to be hydrophilic. Preferably, the silicones in the hair treatment compositions are amino-functional silicones. The term "amino-functional silicone" means a silicone containing at least one primary amino, secondary amino, tertiary amino, and / or quaternary ammonium group. The structure of the amino-functional silicone may be linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic. The amino functional group may be at any position in the silicone molecule, preferably at the end of the backbone (e.g., in the case of amodimethicones) and / or in the side chain.
[0235] In certain cases, the amino-functional silicones are chosen from compounds of the following formula:
[0237] wherein each R1 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group, a C6-30 aralkyloxy group, a C1-30 alkaryl group, a C1-30 alkoxyaryl group and a hydroxy group (preferably, each R1 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group and a hydroxy group);
[0238] each R2 is independently a divalent alkylene radical having one to ten carbon atoms (preferably, R2 is a divalent alkylene radical having three to six carbon atoms);
[0239] each R3 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group and a C1-30 alkaryl group (preferably, each R3 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group);
[0240] Q is a monovalent radical chosen from NR42 and NR4(CH2)XNR42;
[0241] each R4 is independently selected from hydrogen and C 1 -C 2 alkyl i-4 ;
[0242] x is from 2 to 6;
[0243]
[0244]
[0245]
[0246]
[0247]
[0248]
[0249]
[0250]
[0251]
[0252]
[0253] z is 0 or 1; n is from 25 to 3,000 (preferably from 25 to 2,000; more preferably from 25 to 1,000; most preferably from 25 to 500); and m is from 0 to 3000 (preferably from 0 to 2000, more preferably from 0 to 1000, most preferably from 0 to 100); provided that at least 50 mol% of the total number of groups R1 and R3 are methyl groups and provided that when m is 0, z is 1. Preferred R1 groups include methyl, methoxy, ethyl, ethoxy, propyl, propoxy, isopropyl, isopropoxy, butyl, butoxy, isobutyl, isobutoxy, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl and hydroxy. Preferred divalent alkylene radicals R2 include tri-methylene, tetramethylene, pentamethylene, CH2CH(CH3)CH2- and CH2CH2CH(CH3 )CH2-. Preferred R3 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl and tolyl. Preferred R4 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutyl. When z is 0, the amino-functional silicone has only pendant amine-functional substituents in the polymer chain. When z is 1, the amino-functional silicone may have only terminal amine-functional substituents (e.g., m=0) or may have both terminal and pendant amine-functional substituents in the polymer chain (e.g., m>0). Preferably, n + m is 50 to 1000.More preferably, n + m is from 50 to 750. Even more preferably, n + m is from 50 to 500. Most preferably, n + m is from 50 to 250. In some cases, the amino-functional silicones are alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated amino silicones. Suitable alkoxylated and / or hydroxylated amino silicones may be selected from compounds having a structure according to the following formula: in which R3 is hydroxyl or OR5, R5 is a C1-C4 alkyl group, R4 is a group having a structure according to the following formula: - CH2 CH CH2 NH (CH2)n NH2 ' D in which R6 is a C1-C4 alkyl group, n is 1 to 4, x is the same as “n” described above, and y is identical to “m” described above. Non-limiting examples of amino-functional silicones include bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones and a mixture thereof. In some cases, a particularly useful amino-functional silicone is bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone, in which X is isobutyl and one of the Rs is OH and the other is OCH3 in the structure above, also known as "bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone" and "3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me, terminated with [(hydroxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- and [(methoxydimethylsilyl)oxy]-". Bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone is commercially available under the trademark DOWSIL AP-8087 FLUID from The Dow Chemical Company.
[0254] The silicone of the hair treatment composition may, in some instances, include polydiorganosiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes having the CTFA designation dimethicone. Other silicones that may be suitable for hair treatment compositions include (particularly for shampoos and conditioners) polydimethylsiloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Silicone gums may, in some instances, be included in the hair treatment compositions, such as those having a slight degree of crosslinking. Non-limiting examples of silicone gums that may, optionally, be included are described in WO 96 / 31188.
[0255] The silicone(s) may have a viscosity of at least 10,000 es, such as at least 50,000 es, at least 100,000 es, at least 200,000 es, at least 400,000 es, at least 800,000 es, at least 1,000,000 es, or at least 2,000,000 es. Preferably, the viscosity does not exceed 109 es to facilitate formulation.
[0256] The hair treatment composition may include preformed silicone emulsions, such as XIAMETER 2-8299 emulsions (Dow Corning / Dow Chemical), BELSIL ADM 4000 E (Wacker), DC2-1766, DC2-1784, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870 from Dow Corning, or crosslinked silicone gums, such as DC X2-1787 or DC X2-1391 from Dow Corning.
[0257] In one embodiment, the amino-functional silicone of the compositions of the present invention includes amodimethicone. Amodimethicone may be commercially available as an emulsion comprising amodimethicone, trideceth-6, and cetrimonium chloride under the trade names XIAMETER 2-8299 or DOWSIL 2-8299 (Dow Corning / Dow Chemical). Amodimethicone may also be available as an emulsion under the trademark BELSIL ADM 4000 E (Wacker).
[0258] According to the various embodiments, the amount of the at least one amino-functional silicone is from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, or preferably from about 0.3 to about 2.5% by weight, or more preferably from about 0.4 to about 2% by weight, or more preferably from about 0.5 to about 1.5% by weight, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will understand that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0259] Thus, any one of the at least one amino-functional silicone is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in an amount of about 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.5, 0.55, 0.6, 0.65, 0.7, 0.75, 0.8, 0.85, 0.9, 0.95, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, up to about 3% by weight, including included and intermediate increments and ranges. Fatty compounds
[0260] The at least one fatty compound of the compositions of the present invention may be chosen from vegetable oils, vegetable butters, vegetable triglycerides or mixtures thereof.
[0261] Non-limiting examples of vegetable or plant-based oils include acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, borage oil, Brazil nut oil, buriti oil, camelina oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, castor oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip oil, ajowan oil, angelica root oil, anise oil, aragan oil, asafetida oil, balsam oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, black pepper oil, buchu oil, birch oil, camphor oil, cannabis oil, caraway, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, lemongrass oil, clary sage oil, clove leaf oil, coffee oil,Coriander oil, rosemary oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb oil, cumin oil, cypress oil, cypriol, curry oil, davana oil, dill oil, elecampane oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir oil, frankincense oil, galangal oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, goldenrod oil, grapefruit oil, henna oil, helichrysum oil, horseradish oil, hyssop oil, Idaho tansy oil, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, marjoram oil, tea tree oil, lemon balm oil, winter savory oil, mugwort oil, mustard oil, myrrh oil, myrtle oil, neem, neroli oil, nutmeg oil, orange oil, oregano oil, orris oil, palo santo oil, parsley oil, patchouli oil, perilla oil, pennyroyal oil, peppermint oil, petitgrain oil,pine oil, pine oil, plum, ravensara oil, red cedarwood oil, roman chamomile oil, rose oil, rosehip oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras oil, savory oil, schisandra oil, spikenard oil, spruce oil, star anise oil, mandarin oil, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, tsuga oil, turmeric oil, valerian oil, vetiver oil, western red cedarwood oil, wintergreen oil, yarrow oil, ylang-ylang oil and zedoary oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, marula oil, corn oil, argan oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, oil arara, shea butter oil and rapeseed oil.
[0262] Fatty compounds suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may also be selected from plant-based or vegetable butters such as shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter.
[0263] In a preferred embodiment, the suitable fatty compound of the present invention is selected from shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), cocos nucifera (coconut) oil (or coconut oil), or a mixture thereof, preferably coconut oil.
[0264] The total amount of fatty compounds in the composition may vary but is typically from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 9% by weight, or from about 0.2 to about 8% by weight, or from about 0.3 to about 7% by weight, or from about 0.4 to about 7% by weight, or from about 0.4 to about 6.5% by weight, or from about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, or 0.5 to about 5% by weight, or from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, or about 0.5 to about 4.5% by weight, or about 0.8 to about 4.2% by weight, or about 1 to about 4% by weight, or about 1.2 to about 4% by weight, or about 1.2 to about 3.5% by weight, or about 1.5 to about 3% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, or about 1.5 to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including the ranges and intermediate sub-ranges.
[0265] Thus, the fatty compounds are present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in an amount of approximately 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5 up to about 5% by weight, including inclusive and intermediate increments and ranges. Esters
[0266] The esters may be chosen from fatty esters, cetyl esters, isopropyl esters, glyceryl esters (glycerol), dialkyl esters, diesters with octanoic acid and propylene glycol (for example, mixture of propylene glycol diesters of caprylic and capric acids, INCI: propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate), or mixtures thereof.
[0267] Thus, the total amount of esters in the composition may vary, but is typically from about 0.01 to about 6 wt%, such as from about 0.05 to about 5.5 wt%, or from about 0.05 to about 5 wt%, or from about 0.05 to about 4.5 wt%, or from about 0.1 to about 4 wt%, or from about 0.2 to about 3.5 wt%, or from about 0.3 to about 3 wt%, or from about 4 to about 2.5 wt%, or from about 0.5 to about 2 wt%, or from about 0.5 to about 1.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Additional ingredients
[0268] The compositions of the present invention may further comprise additional / optional ingredients such as non-ionic surfactants.
[0269] The nonionic surfactants may be selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-3, oleth-10, oleth-20, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-10, PPG-1 trideceth-6, laureth-12, steareth-20, and combinations thereof. Other components
[0270] In one or more embodiments, the hair cosmetic compositions described herein may contain one or more additional ingredients (additives and miscellaneous ingredients). Examples include, but are not limited to, amphoteric surfactants, anionic surfactants, emulsifiers (such as sorbitan esters or polysorbates), thickeners (such as polysaccharide-based thickeners other than cationic guar gums), film-forming agents, other polymers such as cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, polyquaternium compounds such as polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-67, etc.), proteins, hydrolyzed proteins, amino acids, fragrance, pH adjusters, chelators and preservatives.
[0271] In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of a leave-in product such as a curly hair care product (such as styling creams), an anti-frizz hair product, or a rinse-out or leave-in mask or treatment product.
[0272] In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of a rinse-off product such as a conditioner product or a mask product or a shampoo-conditioner (2 in 1) product.
[0273] In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of a leave-in product such as a hair or skin treatment product.
[0274] In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of a leave-in or rinse-out conditioner.
[0275] In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of a cream.
[0276] In one embodiment, the compositions of the present disclosure are in the form of an emulsion such as an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion. In one embodiment, the emulsion is in the form of a cream or a lotion. pH and viscosity
[0277] The cosmetic composition of the present disclosure has a pH ranging from about 2.5 to about 4.8 or from about 2.7 to about 4.5 or from about 3 to about 4.5, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0278] In various embodiments, the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure has a pH of about 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8 or 4.9.
[0279] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure has an initial viscosity (after preparation of the composition) equal to or greater than 10 Pa.s, or from about 10 to about 100 Pa.s, or from about 5 to about 100 Pa.s, or from about 5 to about 50 Pa.s, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, at a shear rate greater than 1 ( 1 / s) and less than 101 1 / s as measured by a rheometer (DHR-2, TA instruments, New Castle, DE, USA).
[0280] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure has an initial viscosity (after preparation of the composition) equal to or less than 10 Pa.s, or from about 1 to about 10 Pa.s, or from about 2 to about 10 Pa.s, or from about 5 to about 50 Pa.s, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, at a shear rate greater than 101 1 / s and less than 102 1 / s as measured by a rheometer (DHR-2, TA instruments, New Castle, DE, USA).
[0281] In one embodiment, when the pH of the composition is increased to greater than 5, the viscosity of the composition drops to a viscosity less than 1 Pa.s, such as from less than 1 to about 0.1 Pa.s, at a shear rate greater than 101 (1 / s) and less than 102 1 / s as measured by a rheometer (DHR-2, TA instruments, New Castle, DE, USA).
[0282] In one embodiment, when the composition is diluted at least 3 times, the viscosity of the composition drops to a viscosity of less than 1 Pa.s, such as from less than 1 to about 0.1 Pa.s, at a shear rate of greater than 101 (1 / s) and less than 102 1 / s as measured by a rheometer (DHR-2, TA instruments, New Castle, DE, USA). Methods
[0283] Another aspect of the invention relates to methods of using the cosmetic compositions described herein. In particular, when the cosmetic compositions are intended to be applied to hair, i.e., they are hair cosmetic compositions, the methods generally comprise applying to the hair any of the hair cosmetic compositions described. The hair cosmetic compositions may be useful in a variety of contexts, and either for chemically treated or pre-alkalized hair or for untreated hair. Pre-alkalized hair may include chemically relaxed / straightened or chemically dyed (with oxidative dyes) or bleached or lightened / highlighted hair, i.e., hair treated with products that result in an increase in the pH of the hair to an alkaline pH.Use of the compositions of the present invention on hair may include as part of a shampoo, part of a conditioner or as a conditioner, as a pre-treatment, or after cleansing or conditioning or washing the hair, or as a treatment for the care of curly hair or as a mask treatment with or without rinsing.
[0284] Methods of treating hair according to the disclosure may include applying a hair cosmetic composition of the present disclosure to the hair (wet, damp, or dry hair), leaving the hair treatment on the hair for a sufficient period of time, and rinsing the hair cosmetic composition or leaving the hair treatment on the hair as a leave-in product. The hair cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair before, during, or after other hair cosmetic compositions (e.g., shampoo, conditioner, mask, cream, lotion, gel, etc.)
[0285] The hair cosmetic composition may remain on the hair for a period of time, for example from about a few seconds (1, 3, 5 or 10 seconds) to about 10, 20 or 30 minutes, or longer, for example up to about one hour, or until about two o'clock, or until about three o'clock, or until about four o'clock, or until about five o'clock, or until about six o'clock, or until about seven o'clock, or until about eight o'clock, or until about twelve o'clock or all night.
[0286] Hair cosmetic compositions may be useful for treating chemically treated hair.
[0287] The individual application of a hair cosmetic composition or the combined or layered application of a hair cosmetic composition with another composition is described above. In some cases, a hair cosmetic composition is applied individually to the hair and is also combined or layered with another composition that is also applied to the hair. Kits
[0288] The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be incorporated into a kit. For example, the kits may include at least one cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure. The kits may also include one or more hair cosmetic compositions (according to the present disclosure), such as a shampoo and / or a conditioner and / or a mask and / or another hair treatment or styling product.
[0289] The implementation of the present disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. The examples serve to illustrate the technology without being limiting in nature. Example I: Compositions
[0290] [Table 1]
[0291] Examples of formulation TYPE OF INGREDIENT INGREDIENT INCI NAME EX. A (invention) EX. B (comparative) CA TIONIC SURFACTANT BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 2.1 2.1 CA TIONIC SURFACTANT CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.02 0.02 ANIONIC POLYMER ACRYLATES COPOLYMER(l) 0.8 - SILICONE AMODIMETHICONE IA IA FATTY ALCOHOL CETEARYL ALCOHOL 5.8 5.8 NON-IONIC SURFACTANT TRIDECETH-6 0.1 0.1 POLYSORBATE 80 0.1 - FATTY COMPOUND ONE OR MORE OF PLANT-BASED OIL OR BUTTER, HYDROCARBON OILS, ESTERS < / = 10 < / = 10 SOLVANTS OR GANIQUES UN OU PLUSIEURS PARMI GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL, DENAT. ALCOHOL < / = 10 < / = 10 ADDITIFS OU IN GRÉDIENTS DIVERS UN OU PLUSIEURS PARMI PRESERVATIVES, pH ADJUSTERS, CHELANTS, COLORANTS, SALT, FRAGRANCE, VITAMINS, PLANT EXTRACTS, PROTEINS / AMINO ACIDS / PROTEIN HYDROLYSATES <=1,0 <=1,0 WATER QS 100 QS 100
[0292] (1) Commercially available under the LUVIFLEX SOFT brand of the company BASF.
[0293] Process for manufacturing the compositions of the invention:
[0294] Invention example A was prepared according to the following general process:
[0295] The formulation was prepared by:
[0296] - heating the water to approximately 70°C,
[0297] - then addition of cetearyl alcohol, amodimethicone and behenyl chloride- trimonium until completely dispersed,
[0298] - cooling to about 50°C,
[0299] - addition of acrylate copolymer, other optional additives (preservatives, solvent organic, surfactants, perfume and dyes, etc.)
[0300] - then continued cooling to room temperature.
[0301] The pH of the inventive formulas made according to the above method ranged from about 2.5 to less than 5. The inventive formulas obtained were also stable after 2 months at 45°C and 4°C, respectively, i.e. there was no phase separation or precipitation, even with the combination of a cationic compound (cationic surfactant) and an anionic compound (acrylate copolymer) in the formulas.
[0302] Example II: Viscosity, dH and dilution studies
[0303] The following table shows the changes in the properties of the inventive formulations such as texture and viscosities when their pH was changed or when the formulations were diluted with water. The viscosities of the formulations were measured using a rheometer (DHR-2, TA instruments, New Castle, DE, USA) and a 40 mm parallel plate geometry. A gap of 1 mm between the parallel plates was chosen. All tests were carried out at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. The sample was subjected to a shear ramp starting from 0.1 1 / s up to 1000 1 / s in a period of 300 seconds. The time interval between data points is 1 s. The shear stress response was recorded for each data point.
[0304] The pH of the formulations was modified or adjusted by adding sodium hydroxide solution or other suitable pH modifiers.
[0305] The textures of the formulations were evaluated using a polarized microscope.
[0306] [Tables2] EX. A (invention) EX. B (comparative) pH of the composition (undiluted) 4.2 4.4 Viscosity range (Pa*s) for a shear rate of 10 to 1 x 103 1 / s 7.0 to 0.26 (FIG. IA) 2.2 to 0.049 (FIG. IB) Texture of the composition Lamellar and creamy structure Lamellar and creamy structure
[0307] [Table 3]
[0308] Change in pH EX. A (invention) EX. B (comparative) Change in pH of the composition Increased up to 5.6 Increased up to 5.5 Viscosity and texture of the composition after pH change Viscosity decreased significantly and the structure of the composition de- The change in viscosity was very small compound; phase separation / precipitation Viscosity range (Pa»s) at a shear rate of 10 to 1 x 103 1 / s after pH change 0.8 to 0.028 (FIG. IA) 1.03 to 0.040 (FIG. IB)
[0309] [Table 4]
[0310] 3X dilution of formulas Ex. A or Ex. B with water (external*) EX. A (invention) EX. B (comparative) pH of the composition after 3x dilution 4 4.7 Viscosity and texture of the composition after 3x dilution Viscosity decreased significantly and the structure of the composition decomposed Change in viscosity was very small Viscosity range (Pa»s) for a shear rate of 10 to 1 x 103 1 / s after 3x dilution 1.94 to 0.052 (FIG. 2A) 1.88 to 0.063 (FIG. 2B)
[0311] * External water means water that is not part of the formulation when it is initial preparation.
[0312] The data in Table 3 can be viewed in Figures 1 to 2. In Figure 1A, it can be seen that the viscosity of the inventive composition, Ex. A, significantly decreased over a shear rate of 10 to 1 x 103 1 / s when the pH of the inventive composition Ex. A was increased to greater than 5, i.e., to about 5.6. Thus, while the inventive composition initially has a higher viscosity or is thicker, which prevents or reduces drainage of the composition upon application to a substrate such as hair, a change in the pH of the composition resulting in a significant decrease in viscosity allows for easier spreading and application to the surface such as hair fibers, resulting in better and homogeneous deposition of the active agents and / or conditioning agents and / or styling agents on the surface.At the same time, the decrease in viscosity makes it easier and faster to rinse or remove the composition. hair with water (quick wash or rinse effect or improved rinsability). The cleaning or rinsing process would therefore require less water.
[0313] Thus, when the inventive composition is exposed to an alkaline or basic environment, for example when mixed with an alkaline composition or when applied to chemically treated hair (or pre-alkalized hair) that has been previously treated with hair dyes or hair relaxers that are typically alkaline and typically have residual alkalinity, the pH of the inventive composition may increase, thereby resulting in a significant decrease in viscosity that facilitates spreadability, ease of application, and more even application of the composition to a substrate.The significant decrease in viscosity due to the increase in pH of the composition is associated with the unique and improved rinsing ability or removal capability or rapid washing / rinsing property of the instant disclosure compositions (requiring less water during rinsing).
[0314] In contrast, a very small or insignificant viscosity change was observed for the comparative composition, Ex. B, even when its pH was increased to more than 5, i.e., to about 5.5 (FIG. 1B). This insignificant viscosity change was evident for a shear rate range from 10 to 1 x 103 1 / s; such a result indicates that the spreading and application attributes of the composition onto a substrate and / or the rinsing property of the composition from a substrate would not be significantly affected.
[0315] As for the dilution of the inventive composition with water, for example by a 3x dilution with water, its viscosity decreases significantly compared to the initial viscosity of the composition (FIG. 2A). The decrease in viscosity allows for easier spreading and application of the composition to a surface such as the surface of hair fibers, which allows for a homogeneous and better deposition of the active agents and / or conditioning agents on the surface. The decrease in viscosity also allows for easier and faster removal of the composition from the surface (fast washing or rinsing effect or improved rinsability). The cleaning or rinsing process would therefore require less water.Thus, the decrease in viscosity due to dilution, which mimics application to wet hair and / or the addition of external water, is associated with the unique and improved property of rinsability or removability or rapid washing / rinsing of the compositions of the present disclosure (requiring less water during rinsing).
[0316] In contrast, comparative composition Ex. B, exhibited only a very slight change in viscosity upon dilution with water over a shear rate ranging from 10 to 1 x 103 1 / s (FIG. 2B); such a result indicates that the spreading and application attributes of the composition on a substrate and / or the property of rinsability of the composition from a substrate would not be significantly affected.
[0317] In conclusion, the inventive composition has been found to be sensitive to a change in pH and / or dilution with water which results in a significant decrease in viscosity. This change in viscosity can result either from applying the composition to pre-alkalized hair or from diluting it with water (as in hair cleansing or conditioning activities). The resulting decrease in viscosity impacts the spreadability and application of the composition to a surface such as hair. As the viscosity decreases, the composition becomes easier to spread and apply to the surface and to remove or rinse / wash from the hair. Example III: Studies of hair strands
[0318] The inventive composition Ex. A and the comparative composition Ex. B were each applied to locks of wet hair of medium degree of curl. The locks were pre-shampooed, rinsed with water, treated with the inventive composition or the comparative composition, then rinsed with water.
[0319] In a study, wet strands were placed in a humid chamber (80% RH) at 25 degrees centigrade for 2 days. Figure 3A (left image of [Fig.3]) shows the visual appearance of the strands before placing them in the humid chamber. The left strand was treated with the inventive composition Ex. A and the right strand was treated with the comparative composition Ex. B (initial). Figure 3B (right image of [Fig.3]) shows the visual appearance of the strands after 2 days in the humid chamber (after 2 days). It is evident from the images that at the initial stage, the strand treated with the inventive composition was less frizzy, had better definition and curl shape and had a smoother appearance compared to the strand treated with the comparative composition. The inventive composition and the comparative composition imparted a comparable conditioning effect to the hair.It was also evident that after 2 days in high humidity, even though the strand treated with the inventive composition was more voluminous compared to the initial stage, it was significantly less frizzy, had better definition and shape of the curls and had significantly less volume compared to the strand treated with the comparative composition.
[0320] In another study, wet strands were allowed to air dry at 25 degrees centigrade for 2 days. Figure 4A (left image of [Fig.4]) shows the visual appearance of the strands before air drying. The left strand was treated with comparative composition Ex. B and the right strand was treated with inventive composition Ex. A, (initial). Figure 4B (right image of [Fig.4]) shows the visual appearance of the strands after 2 days of air drying (after 2 days). On the images of the initial stage, the strands had comparable appearances - very little frizz, curl definition and shape and smooth and conditioned appearance compared to the strand treated with the comparative composition. However, after 2 days of air drying, even though the strand treated with the inventive composition was more voluminous compared to the initial stage, it was significantly less frizzy, had better curl definition and shape and had significantly less volume compared to the strand treated with the comparative composition.
[0321] Overall, the inventive composition provided a better anti-frizz effect, better curl definition, and a smooth or less voluminous appearance to natural curly hair compared to the comparative composition that did not contain the anionic copolymer.
[0322] The foregoing description illustrates and describes the invention. The disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments, but it is to be understood that the invention may be used in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and may be subject to changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, based upon the above teachings and / or skill or knowledge in the relevant art. The embodiments described above are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to utilize the disclosure in such or other embodiments and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof. Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein.
[0323] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" (or "comprise," "have," and "include") are used in their open and non-limiting sense. The phrase "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified materials or steps and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention.
[0324] Throughout the disclosure, if the phrase "a mixture thereof" is used, it follows a list of elements as shown in the following example where the letters A through F represent the elements: "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, or mixtures thereof." The phrase "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."
[0325] When the disclosure refers to "a member selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof," it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
[0326] Salts mentioned throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions is not, however, limiting.
[0327] The expression “one or more” means “at least one” and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0328] The term “plurality” means “more than one” or “two or more.”
[0329] As used herein, the term "cosmetic composition" is intended to include "personal care" compositions.
[0330] Some of the various component categories identified for the compositions of the present disclosure may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition / product includes two overlapping components (or more than two overlapping components), an overlapping component is not more than one component. For example, a fatty acid may be defined as both a "fatty compound" and a "surfactant / emulsifier." If a particular composition / product includes both a fatty compound component and an emulsifier component, a single fatty acid may serve solely as the fatty compound or as the surfactant / emulsifier (a single fatty acid does not serve as both the fatty compound and the surfactant / emulsifier).
[0331] All percentages, parts and ratios set forth herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.
[0332] All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value for deriving a subrange, etc. Furthermore, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within, as well as any combination of subranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes points 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc.; and points 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 include ranges and subranges of 1 to 5, 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc.
[0333] Other than in the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are understood to be modified by "about", whether or not expressly indicated. Furthermore, all numbers are intended to represent exact figures as additional embodiments, whether or not modified by "approximately." For example, "an amount of approximately 1%" includes an amount of exactly 1%. In another example, "an amount of 1%" includes an amount of approximately 1%.
[0334] The term "surfactants" includes salts of surfactants, even if not explicitly mentioned. In other words, whenever the disclosure refers to a surfactant, it is understood that salts of the surfactant are also included to the extent that such salts exist, even though the specification may not specifically refer to a salt (or may not refer to a salt in every instance throughout the disclosure), for example, by using language such as "a salt thereof" or "salts thereof." Sodium and potassium are common cations that form salts with surfactants. However, other cations, such as ammonium ions or alkanolammonium ions, such as monoethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions, may also form surfactant salts.
[0335] The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the fundamental and novel features of the claimed invention). Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2% by weight, less than 1.5% by weight, less than 1% by weight, less than 0.5% by weight, less than 0.3% by weight, less than 0.1% by weight, less than 0.05% by weight, or less than 0.01% by weight, or none of the specified material.
[0336] The term "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a starting material that is included in the composition.
Claims
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer comprising a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and esters thereof selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and pentyl esters; (b) at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant; (c) at least one fatty alcohol; (d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from water, organic solvents and mixtures thereof; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 5; and wherein, when the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer comprises an alkyl group, the alkyl group has less than 5 carbon atoms.
2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is an acrylate copolymer and is present in an amount of 0.3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and is chosen from: - quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula below: in which the groups R8 to Ru, identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Ru denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; - a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline; - a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula: Rp Rp I . . I R i 6—N—( C FL h—N — Ro i Ris R20 in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, Rn is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N-(CH2)3, R16a» R17a, R18a» R18» R19» R20 and R21, identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates; and - cationizable surfactants, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer selected from compounds of general structure R4-A-R5—B, in which R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 1 to 4 C atoms, A is chosen from: O ........ $ ® and and B is chosen from D -.¼¼¼¼¼¾ in which R6 and R7, identical or different, are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 atonicities of C, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 atonicities of C and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 atonicities of C, and Rs — H _ R10 X' Rs wherein R8 and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, Rio is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, - or mixtures thereof.
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido-pro-pyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldi-methylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine,dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, or mixtures thereof.,
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol), myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol and a mixture thereof; and is present in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
6. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises: - from 0.1 to 5% by weight of at least one silicone including at least one amino-functional silicone chosen from amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, or mixtures thereof; and / or - at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkylpolyglucosides, polysorbates, or mixtures thereof; and / or - from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one fatty compound is chosen from vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, esters, or a mixture thereof; all weights being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
7. Method for treating a keratinous substrate chosen from hair or skin, the method comprising a step of applying to the keratinous substrate a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer comprising a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and their esters selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and pentyl esters; (b) from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant; (c) from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty alcohol; (d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from water, organic solvents and mixtures thereof; (e) optionally, at least one silicone; (f) optionally, at least one non-ionic surfactant; and (g) optionally, at least one fatty compound selected from non-silicone oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; and wherein the pH of the composition is less than 5; in which the at least one cationic surfactant is chosen from: - quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula below: X .Kiol 1¾ Rn in which the groups R8 to Rn, identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; - a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline; - a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula: ll 17 R19 R] g N ( C Hi h N Rj i Ris R20 in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R[7 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N-(CH2)3, R16a» R17a, R18a» R18, R19, R20 Ct R21, identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates; and - cationizable surfactants, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer selected from compounds of general structure R4-A-R5—B, in which R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 1 to 4 C atoms, A is chosen from: O and B is chosen from D — N R? in which R6 and R7, which may be the same or different, are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and — NR,f. X' k wherein R8 and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, R10 is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, or mixtures thereof; wherein the at least one fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol), myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
8. A method according to claim 7, wherein, when the keratinous substrate is hair, the hair has been pre-alkalized or has been previously contacted with an alkaline treatment.
9. A method according to claim 7, wherein the method provides a quick wash or quick rinse effect when the keratinous substrate is rinsed with water after the step of applying the cosmetic composition to the keratinous substrate.
10. A method for improving or increasing the removability of a cosmetic composition from keratinous substrates, the method comprising a step of combining: (a) from 0.3 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one non-hydrophobically modified anionic polymer comprising a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and their esters selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and pentyl esters; (b) from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one cationic surfactant, including a cationizable surfactant; (c) from 4 to 7% by weight.%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (combination of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol), myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol), myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol), decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol and a mixture thereof; (d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof;. (e) optionally, at least one silicone; (f) optionally, at least one non-ionic surfactant; and (g) optionally, at least one fatty compound selected from non-silicone oils, esters, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof; in order to form a cosmetic composition; and wherein the pH of the composition is less than 5; in which the at least one cationic surfactant is chosen from: - quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula below: in which the groups R8 to Rn, identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Rn denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; - a quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline; - a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula: Rn Rio •— N —- (CH2)3—N — k21 kl 8 Rw in which R[6 denotes an alkyl radical comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R[7 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N-(CH2)3, R16a» R17a, R18a» R18, R19, R20 Ct R21, identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates; And - cationizable surfactants, including cationizable surfactants together with an acid neutralizer selected from compounds of general structure R4-A-R5—B, in which R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 1 to 4 C atoms, A is chosen from: QH """ c, and B is chosen from D ________ R? in which R6 and R7, which may be the same or different, are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, and — N — Rw X wherein R8 and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, Rio is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, a hydroxylalkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or a dihydroxylalkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, - or mixtures thereof.