ACTIVATING COSMETIC SERUM AND USE IN A COSMETIC CARE PROCESS

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic serum comprising at least one phospholipid and at least one glycol. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic serum as a care product prior to the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one active ingredient, said serum promoting the penetration of the at least one active ingredient of the cosmetic composition into the skin. The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method comprising the steps of applying the cosmetic serum to the skin and then applying to the skin a cosmetic composition comprising at least one active ingredient, as well as to a care kit comprising a first container containing the cosmetic serum and a second container containing a cosmetic composition comprising at least one active ingredient. Figure 1

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC ACTIVATING SERUM AND USE IN A COSMETIC CARE PROCESS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic serum, to its use as a treatment prior to the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one active ingredient, as well as to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application to the skin of the cosmetic serum, and to a treatment kit containing it.

[0002] The present invention finds applications in particular in the field of cosmetics.

[0003] In the description below, the references in brackets ([ ]) refer to the list of references presented at the end of the text. State of the art

[0004] The skin is a vital organ in its own right, consisting of three distinct tissues, each performing different roles thanks to different cell types and structures.

[0005] The most superficial tissue, and therefore the most exposed, is the epidermis. This pluristratified (Malpighian) and keratinized epithelium is composed of different cells associated with numerous barrier and protection functions. The majority of cells are keratinocytes, which divide in the basal layer and begin their differentiation up to the horny layer (outermost layer), then are eliminated by desquamation, in 21 to 28 days, on average. The major role of the epidermis is to provide the skin, and therefore the human body, with a first line of protection against external aggressions, such as physical, chemical, water and bacteriological aggressions. This protection is notably ensured by the most differentiated layers and the horny layer, known for its hydrophobic properties, its compact and waterproof appearance.

[0006] In an intermediate position, the dermis is a connective tissue invested mainly with fibroblasts and matrix proteins, giving the skin its known qualities of compressibility and elasticity. The modifications of its texture and composition are largely responsible for the alterations of the skin which occur during aging. The relief of the horny layer is, moreover, directly conditioned by the quality and density of the dermis which underlies it. More than the epidermis, whose renewal is rapid and constant, the dermis undergoes significant disorders linked to age, by the aging of its cells and its material. With aging and following environmental aggressions, the fibroblasts are less and less reactive and less and less proliferative. The synthesis of matrix macromolecules is no longer ensured by fibroblasts. In addition, these macromolecules constituting the dermis such as collagen fibers, elastic fibers, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid in particular) tend to degenerate and fragment. These phenomena of alteration of the dermal tissue cause a defect in the organization of the epidermis on the surface and, in a more visible and direct way, a loss of firmness which can lead to skin ptosis and / or the formation of wrinkles.

[0007] The hypodermis, located deep down and consisting mainly of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection, and also plays a role in storing energy reserves that can be quickly mobilized for all biological needs, such as cell renewal, body defense or muscle contraction.

[0008] When a cosmetic active ingredient is applied to the skin, it can cross the stratum corneum and diffuse through the epidermis, the dermis, the hypodermis. However, the percutaneous absorption of a molecule, that is to say its capacity to cross the stratum corneum, depends partly on its affinity for it.

[0009] The development of formulations allowing the transport of an active ingredient to the cell populations of interest, whether located in the epidermis, the dermis or the hypodermis, is a major challenge in the field of cosmetics. Indeed, lipophilic active ingredients tend to be retained in the stratum corneum whereas hydrophilic active ingredients can hardly cross it.

[0010] Many technologies have been proposed to improve the bioavailability of active ingredients with cosmetic activity through the skin. These technologies are based on the development of specific delivery systems, on the development of vesicles for encapsulating the active ingredient, such as liposomes, or on the chemical modification of the active ingredient, or the administration of chemical promoters such as solvents, keratolytic agents or surfactants which modify the lipids of the stratum corneum.

[0011] However, these systems have limitations in terms of vectorization efficiency through the epidermis and dermis.

[0012] There is therefore a real need for new products promoting the penetration of cosmetic active ingredients, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic, into the skin. Description of the invention

[0013] The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs and drawbacks of the prior art.

[0014] The inventors of the present invention have in fact developed a cosmetic serum which, surprisingly, when applied before another cosmetic product, such as a cream, promotes the penetration of the active ingredients of this product. cosmetic, compared to an application of the cosmetic product not preceded by the application of the serum.

[0015] The inventors have in particular demonstrated a synergistic effect of the glycol and the phospholipids contained in the serum, in the penetration of the active ingredients of a cosmetic product applied after the serum, compared to a serum not containing glycol.

[0016] Thus, a first subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic use of a cosmetic serum of the invention, as a treatment prior to the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one active ingredient, said serum promoting the penetration of the at least one active ingredient of the cosmetic composition into the skin.

[0017] A second subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic serum comprising at least one phospholipid and at least one glycol.

[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "serum" means a cosmetic composition which has a lighter texture than that of a cream, and which is absorbed more quickly by the skin than a cream. In other words, a serum according to the invention has a non-greasy texture, that is to say that it leaves no greasy or sticky finish on the skin compared to the finish after application of a cream, and a balance between flow characteristics which are sufficiently fluid to be quickly spread over the surface of the skin to be treated and sufficiently gelled to avoid dripping at the time of application. A serum according to the invention may be in any form known to those skilled in the art, such as for example an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water lamellar emulsion, an aqueous solution, an aqueous dispersion or a gel.Preferably, the serum of the invention may be in an emulsified form containing from 1 to 20% of fatty phase containing the phospholipid(s), or between 2 and 18%, or between 3 and 15% of fatty phase. The serum may have a viscosity ranging from 500 mPa.s to 50,000 mPa.s. Whatever the form of the serum chosen, it has light sensory properties compatible with its application under a cream without generating a greasy or heavy feeling at the end of the application routine.

[0019] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "phospholipid" means any lipid, natural or synthetic, containing a phosphoric acid group as a mono or diester. The serum of the invention may contain one type of phospholipid, or several different types of phospholipids, for example 2, or 3, or 4, or 5, or 6, or even more, provided that their mixture does not alter the texture of the serum. For example, the phospholipid may be chosen from a group comprising phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidic acid, phosphatidylinositol, lysophospholipids, their hydrogenated derivatives, and their mixtures. The phospholipids may be produced by any method known to those skilled in the art. For example, natural phospholipids can be extracted from plants, such as soy, rapeseed or sunflower, or from animal sources, such as egg yolk. Advantageously, the phospholipid may be soy lecithin. According to the invention, the percentage by weight of the phospholipid relative to the total weight of the cosmetic serum may be between 1 and 5%, for example between 1 and 4.5%, or between 1 and 4%, preferably between 1 and 3%.

[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "glycol" means any diol in which the two hydroxyl groups are carried by different carbon atoms. The serum of the invention may contain one type of glycol, or several different types of glycols, for example 2, or 3, or 4, or 5, or 6, or even more, provided that their mixture does not alter the texture of the serum. For example, the glycol may be chosen from a group comprising pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, methylpropanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the percentage by weight of said glycol or of the mixture of glycols, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic serum, may be between 3 and 15%, for example between 4 and 14%, or between 5 and 10%, or between 6 and 12%, or between 9 and 11%, preferably between 5 and 15%.Surprisingly, the Applicant found that the percentage of glycol in the serum influences the penetration profile of the active ingredients contained in a cosmetic composition applied to the skin after application of the serum, as will be explained in more detail below.

[0021] The serum of the invention may further comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients and / or active ingredients.

[0022] Thus, the serum of the invention may further comprise one or more excipients chosen in particular from the group consisting of a fatty phase, organic solvents, preferably a lower alcohol, an antioxidant, a preservative, an antimicrobial agent, a stabilizing agent, a thickening agent, an emulsifier, a perfume, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the percentage by weight of said excipients relative to the total weight of the cosmetic serum may be between 3 and 50%, for example between 5 and 40%, or between 10 and 30%, or between 10 and 20%, or between 9 and 11%, or between 3 and 15%, this including the fatty phase.

[0023] For example, when the serum of the invention contains a lamellar system of lipid bilayers, it may further comprise a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol, as described in document FR3010306 ([1]). In this case, the lamellar system is formed by a mixture of phospholipids as described above, a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol. In this embodiment, the fatty acid may be a saturated or unsaturated C8-C22 aliphatic carboxylic acid, and the fatty alcohol may be an aliphatic alcohol comprising a saturated or unsaturated C8-C22 carbon chain. Advantageously, the serum of the invention may comprise from 0.05 to 15% by weight of the mixture of phospholipid, fatty acid and fatty alcohol, relative to the total weight of the serum.

[0024] Advantageously, the serum of the invention may comprise at least one active ingredient with cosmetic activity. The active ingredients may be chosen from those conventionally used in this field, in particular agents improving skin firmness, agents for mature, anti-aging or anti-wrinkle skin, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, anti-blemish agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening, anti-blemish or depigmenting agents, slimming agents, agents for combating oxidative stress, repairing agents, nourishing agents, agents restructuring the skin barrier, agents promoting radiance of the complexion, and hair agents such as anti-dandruff agents, hair growth modulating agents and hair restructuring agents, as well as combinations thereof.The concentration of active ingredients can generally be between 0.001 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the serum of the invention.

[0025] Furthermore, the serum of the invention contains water, in a proportion generally between 0 and 95%. This may be, for example, a proportion between 30 and 80%, or between 50 and 70%, or alternatively a proportion of 0% in the case of anhydrous sera.

[0026] In one embodiment, the serum of the invention may thus comprise: - 1 to 5% of at least one phospholipid, - 3 to 15% of at least one glycol, - 0.001 to 30% of at least one active ingredient, - 50 to 90% water, - at least one excipient, - optionally a fatty alcohol and a fatty acid, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic serum.

[0027] The serum of the invention may be prepared according to any method known to those skilled in the art for preparing a serum. It may be a mixture between a product containing phospholipids, for example the product Biophilic H (trademark, Lucas Meyer) and glycol, or a method described in document FR3010306 ([1]) for the preparation of a composition comprising a lamellar system of lipid bilayers comprising a mixture of phospholipid, fatty acid and alcohol as wall constituents. This method comprises in particular suspending the phospholipid, a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol in an aqueous solution, preferably in water according to the mass ratios "phospholipid / fatty acid" of 0.5 to 1.5, and a mass ratio "fatty alcohol / fatty acid" of 2 to 4. The suspension is then heated to a temperature allowing the phase transition of the fatty acid, the fatty alcohol and the phospholipid, at a temperature gener- between 60°C and 90°C. The active ingredient, possibly solubilized in an organic solvent or in aqueous solution, is added and incorporated before the complete formation of the lamellar system. Any additional excipients are then added with stirring, before or after the temperature of the solution is brought back to room temperature and once the lamellar system has been formed.

[0028] As indicated previously, the serum of the invention has the surprising capacity of allowing, when applied before another cosmetic product of less fluid texture, such as a cream, to promote the penetration of the active ingredients of this cosmetic product.

[0029] “preliminary care”, within the meaning of the present invention, means the act of applying the serum of the invention at least 30 seconds before the application of the cosmetic composition, for example approximately 1 minute, 2 minutes, 10 minutes or up to 1 hour before the application of the cosmetic composition.

[0030] The cosmetic composition may be any cosmetic composition other than a serum, in particular any cosmetic composition with a less fluid texture than the serum of the invention. The cosmetic composition may be chosen, for example, from a cream, such as, for example, an oil-in-water emulsion, a balm, an ointment, a lotion, a milk, a gel, a stick or a mousse.

[0031] The treatment is a cosmetic treatment, targeting at least one cosmetic effect chosen from improving the firmness of the skin, improving the hydration of the skin, lightening the complexion, improving the radiance of the complexion, refining the texture of the skin, increasing the suppleness, softness and / or elasticity of the skin, firming the skin, reducing wrinkles or fine lines of the skin, reducing the shine of the skin, in particular due to sebum, reducing spots and / or pigmentation of the skin, reducing the “orange peel” appearance or dimpling and / or thinning, for example on the thighs, reducing skin imperfections, soothing the skin, improving the structure of the skin barrier, reducing dandruff, improving hair growth and improving the structure of the hair,

[0032] The application of the serum and the cosmetic composition to the skin can be carried out by any method known to those skilled in the art, for example by massage, in particular by means of circular movements, tapping, stretching, or effleurage.

[0033] The cosmetic composition used subsequently to the serum of the invention may further comprise one or more cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable excipients and / or active ingredients.

[0034] By “cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable excipients” is meant any excipient suitable for use in contact with human cells. skin, in particular epidermal cells, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit / risk ratio. The cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle may be chosen from water, fatty phases, gelling agents, glycerin, methylpropanediol, this list not being exhaustive.

[0035] For example, at least one active ingredient contained in the cream may be chosen from agents improving skin firmness, agents for mature, anti-aging or anti-wrinkle skin, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, anti-blemish agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening, anti-blemish or depigmenting agents, slimming agents, agents for combating oxidative stress, repairing agents, nourishing agents, agents restructuring the skin barrier, agents promoting radiance of the complexion, and hair agents such as anti-dandruff agents, hair growth modulating agents and hair restructuring agents, as well as combinations thereof.

[0036] In particular, the treatment may be a firming treatment, in which the at least one active ingredient is preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, agents promoting firmness and elasticity, and agents refining skin texture. Advantageously, in the context of a firming treatment, the percentage of glycol may be between approximately 9 and approximately 12%, for example approximately 11%, such a percentage of glycol in the serum influencing the penetration profile of the active ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition applied to the skin after application of the serum.

[0037] Alternatively, the treatment may be a treatment for mature skin, in which at least one active ingredient is preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, anti-aging or anti-wrinkle agents, densifying agents, anti-blemish agents, and agents for treating mature skin, in particular characterized by a lack of tone, sagging, marked wrinkles, and pigmentary irregularities, due on the one hand to a decrease in the activity of fibroblasts and an alteration of the elements of the dermal extracellular matrix such as collagen and elastin, and on the other hand to the alteration of the functioning of melanocytes. Advantageously, the anti-aging cosmetic action may be any process linked to intrinsic or extrinsic aging which may take place at the level of the skin cells without necessarily being systematically visible at the level of the organ.For example, the anti-aging cosmetic action may be an antioxidant and detoxifying action at the level of skin cells, in particular fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes, and / or melanocytes and mucous membranes. Advantageously, in the context of care for mature skin, the percentage of glycol may be between approximately 8 and approximately 10%, for example approximately 9%, such a percentage of glycol in the serum influencing the penetration profile of the active ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition applied to the skin after application of the serum.

[0038] Advantageously, the penetration of the active ingredients contained in the cosmetic cream is improved due to the prior application of the serum of the invention, compared to the level of penetration of the same active ingredients of the cream if the application of the latter was not preceded by the application of the serum. This improvement in penetration may result in reaching deeper skin layers compared to a result obtained without prior application of the serum, for example the epidermis or the dermis, and / or a greater quantity of active ingredients reaching the deepest layers. Advantageously, better penetration of the active ingredients of the cream aims to allow a better cosmetic action of these on the skin.

[0039] According to the invention, a cosmetic action aims in particular to improve the aesthetics of the skin. It is therefore a purely aesthetic action, to the exclusion of any therapeutic action, making it possible to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and / or its appendages and / or mucous membranes, in particular to present, in the long term, a more aesthetic, regular and / or homogeneous appearance. The term "improve the surface appearance" means any effect making it possible to beautify, homogenize the visible part of the skin, and / or its appendages and / or mucous membranes, and its aesthetic appearance associated with youth criteria. The term "youth criteria" means any description linked to good hydration and / or good nutrition of the skin, smooth and homogeneous skin texture, its homogeneous and vital color, suppleness and bounce, the optimum functioning of the skin tissue associated or not with good health and a youthful state.

[0040] In the context of the invention, the use means a non-therapeutic use, for example for the treatment of normal skin. In the present invention, the term "normal skin" means skin which does not present or is not likely to present a pathological condition.

[0041] Another subject of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method comprising the following steps: - application to the skin of a cosmetic serum as defined previously, then - application to the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one active ingredient, as defined previously.

[0042] According to the invention, the skin further comprises the external mucous membranes such as the lips, as well as the scalp.

[0043] Advantageously, the non-therapeutic cosmetic process is a process for aesthetic care of the surface of the skin, its appendages and / or the mucous membranes, for an action on the aesthetics and / or the aging of the skin and / or its appendages and / or the mucous membranes, in particular to provide radiance, suppleness, finesse, smoothing and / or softness. Advantageously, the care process makes it possible to improve the aesthetic appearance of the skin.

[0044] Another object of the invention relates to a care kit comprising: a) a first container containing a cosmetic serum according to the invention, and b) a second container containing a cosmetic composition as defined above, comprising at least one active ingredient.

[0045] Advantageously, the treatment may be a treatment as defined above, in particular a firming treatment or a treatment for mature skin.

[0046] Other advantages may still become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the examples below, illustrated by the appended figures, given for illustrative purposes. Brief description of the drawings

[0047] [Fig.l] represents the skin penetration (fluorescence units) of the active ingredients of the 1%, 2%, 3% and 3% glycol-free “firming” serums from Biophilic (trademark), 24 hours after treatment.

[0048] [Fig.2] represents the skin penetration (fluorescence units) of the active ingredients of a cream applied after 1%, 2%, 3% and 3% glycol-free “firming” serums from Biophilic (trademark), 24 hours after treatment.

[0049] [Fig. 3] represents the skin penetration (in percentage relative to the cream alone) of the active ingredients of a cream applied after 1%, 2%, 3% and 3% glycol-free “firming” serums from Biophilic (trademark), 24 hours after treatment.

[0050] [Fig.4] represents the skin penetration (fluorescence units) of the active ingredients of “mature skin” serums at 1%, 2%, 3% and 3% without glycols from Biophilic (trademark), 24 hours after treatment.

[0051] [Fig.5] represents the skin penetration (fluorescence units) of the active ingredients of a cream applied after 1%, 2%, 3% and 3% glycol-free “mature skin” serums from Biophilic (trademark), 24 hours after treatment. EXAMPLES OR METHODS OF IMPLEMENTATION

[0052] Example 1: preparation of a “firmness / elasticity” cosmetic serum according to the invention

[0053] The cosmetic serum is prepared in the following manner:

[0054] A: In the main beaker, the ingredients of A are added one by one, then heated to 75-80°C and stir with a liquid mixer (Rayneri).

[0055] B: Sprinkle B, ensuring that it is well dispersed and that there are no grains.

[0056] C: Xanthan gum is dispersed in glycerin and added to AB in ensuring its proper dispersion.

[0057] D: D is added, ensuring that it is well hydrated.

[0058] E: E is added just before the formation of an emulsion.

[0059] F: In a separate beaker, the fatty phase F is heated and mixed to 75-80°C, then added to ABCDE and the emulsion is made. Then cooling is carried out.

[0060] G: Phase G is solubilized and then added to the preparation at 30°C and continued to cool.

[0061]

[0062]

[0063]

[0064] H: Then add H. I: Solubilize phase I and then add it to the preparation. J: Add perfume J. Stop stirring at 25°C.

[0065] [Tables 1] Phase Description Quantity A PURIFIED WATER 58.940 A DIGLYCERIN-MBAL 3.000 A PENTYLENE GLYCOL OV 3.000 A NICOTINIC AMIDE with max nicotinic acid 5.000 A TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE00 0.300 A BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2.000 A HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.500 B POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6 0.800 C GLYCERIN 100% VEG-MBAL 3.000 C XANTHAN GUM standard 0.250 D HYDROGENATED LECITHIN-MBAL 3.000 E ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-11 PF 0.500 F DIBUTYL ADIPATE 2.000 F TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.100 F ETHYL HEXYL GLYCERIN 0.300 F C13 C15 ALKANE (plant origin) 2.000 F MACADAMIA OIL 2.000 F VEGETABLE SQUALANE 2.000 F LYSINE LAURAMIDE 1.000 G PURIFIED WATER 5.000 G SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.010 G OLIGOLIN 1.000 H LYS LASTINE V phenoxy-free 1.000 H PURIFIED WATER 2.000 I GLUCO-OLIGOSACCHARIDES 0.500 J PF LOTUS FLIGHT ooreg 0.800 100.000

[0066] Example 2: preparation of a “mature skin” cosmetic serum according to the invention

[0067] The cosmetic serum is prepared in the following manner:

[0068] A: In the main beaker, the ingredients of A are added one by one, and heated to 75-80°C and stirred with a liquid mixer (Rayneri).

[0069] B: Sprinkle B and ensure that it is well dispersed and that there are no grains.

[0070] C: The xanthan gum is dispersed in the glycerin and then added to AB in ensuring its proper dispersion.

[0071] D: We add D and ensure that it is well hydrated.

[0072] E: E is added just before emulsion.

[0073] F: In a separate beaker, heat and mix the fatty phase F to 75-80°C, then we add it to ABCDE and make the emulsion. Then we proceed to cooling.

[0074] G: At 50°C, G is added and then cooled to 30°C.

[0075] H: Add the perfume H.

[0076] I: Phase I is solubilized and then added to the preparation.

[0077] J: We add J.

[0078] K: We add K.

[0079] Stop stirring at 25°C

[0080] [Tables2] Phases Description Quantity A PURIFIED WATER 63.513 A TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0.100 A PANTHENOL 75% 2.000 A HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.500 A GLYCERIN 100% VEG-MBAL 6.000 A GARDENIA RED COLOR DRY EXTRACT 0.007 A DRY EXTRACT COLORED SAFARM YELLOW 0.080 B POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6 0.650 C PENTYLENE GLYCOL OV 3.000 C TRIGLYCERIDE C8 / C10-MBAL 3,000 F C13 C15 ALKANE (plant origin) 3,000 F TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0,500 F MYRITOL 331-MBAL 2,000 F TRIDECYL TRIMELLITATE 1,000 F ETHYL HEXYL GLYCERIN 0,300 G RICE PO4 NATURAL (DISTARCH PHOSPHATE) 1,000 H PF GIRL NEXT DOOR 49456101 0,400 I PURIFIED WATER 1,000 I GLUCO-OLIGOSACCHARIDES 0,500 J WHITE LUPIN HYDROLYS AT PROTEINS 5% GLY50 without par 5,000 K ARTICHOKE LEAF PEPTIDES 3,000 100,000

[0081] Example 3: example of firming care serum

[0082] The percentages are given in mass relative to the total mass of the serum.

[0083] [Tables3] Description Quantity PURIFIED WATER 58,940 DIGLYCERIN-MBAL 3,000 PENTYLENE GLYCOL OV 3,000 NICOTINIC AMIDE with max nicotinic acid 5,000 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0,300 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2,000 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.500 POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6 0.800 GLYCERIN 100% VEG-MBAL 3.000 Standard TOCOPHEROL 0.100 ETHYL HEXYL GLYCERIN 0.300 C13 C15 ALKANE (plant origin) 2.000 MACADAMIA OIL 2.000 VEGETABLE SQUALANE 2.000 LYSINE LAURAMIDE 1.000 PURIFIED WATER 5.000 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.010 OLIGOLIN 1.000 LYS LASTINE V phenoxy-free 1.000 PURIFIED WATER 2.000 GLUCO-OLIGOSACCHARIDES 0.500 PF LOTUS FLIGHT ooreg 0.800 100.000

[0084] Example 4: example of a care serum for mature skin

[0085] The percentages are given in mass relative to the total mass of the serum.

[0086] [Tables4] Description Quantity PURIFIED WATER 63.513 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0.100 PANTHENOL 75% 2.000 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.500 GLYCERIN 100% VEG-MBAL 6.000 GARDENIA RED COLORED DRY EXTRACT 0.007 COLORED DRY EXTRACT SAFARM YELLOW 0.080 POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6 0.650 PENTYLENE GLYCOL OV 3.000 JBL standard 3,000 C13 C15 ALKANE (origin vegetable) 3,000 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0,500 MYRITOL 331-MBAL 2,000 TRIDECYL TRIMELLITATE 1,000 ETHYL HEXYL GLYCERIN 0,300 RICE PO4 NATURAL (DISTARCH PHOSPHATE) 1,000 PF GIRL NEXT DOOR 49456101 0,400 PURIFIED WATER 1,000 GLUCO-OLIGOSACCHARIDES 0,500 WHITE LUPIN HYDROLYS AT PROTEINS 5% GLY50 without par 5,000 ARTICHOKE LEAF PEPTIDES 3,000 100,000

[0087] Example 5: percutaneous absorption and distribution of active ingredients

[0088] In order to evaluate the promotion of the penetration of the active ingredients of a serum according to the invention (containing glycol) compared to an identical serum but not including glycol, the product Biophilic (trademark) (Lucas Meyer) is used. This is a product containing phospholipids but not glycol.

[0089] Depending on the case, fluorescein, a hydrophilic dye, is included in the serum or cosmetic cream in order to mimic the behavior of the active ingredients contained in cosmetic creams, which are most of the time hydrophilic (Ogiso et al.: “Per-cutaneous penetration of fluorescein isothiocyanate-dextrans and the mechanism for enhancement effect of enhancers on the intercellular penetration”, Biol Pharm Bul. 1995 Nov;18(ll):1566-71 ([2]); Chen et al.: “Skin penetration and deposition of carboxyfluorescein and temoporfin from different lipid vesicular Systems: In vitro study with finite and infinite dosage application”, 2011 Apr 15;408(l-2):223-34 ([3])).

[0090] In this example, the cream and / or serum are applied to dermatomed skin discs 25mm in diameter (thickness 500pm, breast - 49 years).

[0091] The formulas tested are as follows:

[0092] TEST 1 and TEST 2: Firming serums at different % of Biophilic (trademark) (1%, 2%, 3% and 3% without glycols) ± firming care cream

[0093] TEST 3 and TEST 4 - Mature skin serums with different % of Biophilic (trademark) (1%, 2%, 3% and 3% without glycols) ± firming care cream

[0094] 0.1% fluorescein is present in all formulas followed.

[0095] The formulas are deposited in infinite doses on the discs.

[0096] For TEST 2 and TEST 4: 10 mg of serum is deposited, then the cream is deposited in infinite dose after 1 hour.

[0097] Penetration is carried out over a period of 24 hours with recovery of the receiving liquid at different times (3 hours, 6 hours and 24 hours).

[0098] The reading of the fluorescence emitted by fluorescein is carried out in each receiving liquid at the different recovery times. The fluorescence of fluorescein (Fluorescein: Fluorescein sodium salt; Sigma; Ref F6377; Lot SHBL6563, Diffusion system device: Phoenix DB-6 Manual Diffusion System (Teledyne Hanson)) is highlighted with an ultraviolet lamp of a fluorescence spectrophotometer (excitation 460nm, emission 515nm, Cytation™ 5 Cell Imaging Multi-Mode Reader (Biotek®)).

[0099] Table 5 below summarizes the different experimental protocols carried out and the results obtained.

[0100] [Tables5] Type of Serum Biophilic % Fluorescein (x presence 0 absence) Glycol (x presence 0 absence) Cream Fluorescein in cream (x presence 0 absence) CONCLUSIONS TES T 1 Firmness 1% XX 0 0 Dose effect in promoting the penetration of a product containing Biophilic + Glycol. A microscopic observation of epifluorescence skin sections allowing visualization of the distribution of fluorescein in the different layers of the skin, shows (1) an accumulation of fluorescein on the surface following the application of the cream alone, and (2) an improvement in the penetration into the dermis (and therefore the bioavailability) of the active ingredients of the firming cream thanks to the application of the preparatory serum. 2% XX 0 0 3% XX 0 0 3% X 0 0 0 Verification of the impact of glycols in the association. TES T2 Firmness 1% 0 XXX The prior application of the firming serum containing Biophilic and glycol promotes door opening (the penetration of the active ingredients contained in the cream) according to a dose effect 2% 0 XXX 3% 0 XXX 3% 0 0 XX This door opening is superior with biophilic + glycol than with biophilic alone 0 0 XX Superiority of the penetration of the active ingredients when the serum is applied before the cream. TES T3 “mature skin” 1% XX 0 0 Confirmation on another formulating environment around the BIOPHILIC / GLYCOL DUO of the dose effect in promoting the penetration of a product containing Biophilic + Glycol 2% XX 0 0 3% XX 0 0 3% X 0 0 0 Superiority of Biophilic + glycol vs Glycol alone “mature skin” 1% 0 XXX The prior application of the MENOPAUSE serum containing Biophilic and glycol promotes door opening (the penetration of the active ingredients contained in the cream) according to a dose effect 2% 0 XXX 3% 0 XXX 3% 0 0 XX This door opening is superior with biophilic + glycol than with biophilic alone 0 0 XX Superiority of the penetration of the active ingredients when the serum is applied before the cream.

[0101] The results of TEST 1 concerning the “firmness” serum at different % of Biophilic (trademark) are shown in [Fig.l].

[0102] Although the 1% and 2% Biophilic (trademark) serums also show the desired effect, the 3% Biophilic (trademark) serum remains the one with better skin penetration.

[0103] It is also shown that the absence of glycols has a real impact on the penetration of the formula.

[0104] The results of TEST 2 concerning the application of the “firming” serum before the cream are shown in Figures 2 (24 hours after treatment) and 3 (in % compared to the cream alone).

[0105] Concerning the 3% serum, a significant improvement in the penetration of the cream is observed up to 24 hours after application.

[0106] The 1% serum also provides great effectiveness on the penetration of the cream, but only on the start of the kinetics at 3h and 6h ([Fig.4]).

[0107] The results of TEST 3 concerning the application of the “mature skin” serum at different % of Biophilic (trademark) are shown in [Fig.5].

[0108] We observe results close to those obtained for the “firmness” serum, particularly concerning the one with 3% Biophilic (trademark).

[0109] The highest penetration is observed for the 3% serum from Biophilic (trademark). A dose effect is observed, and more marked after 24 hours.

[0110] It is once again confirmed that the removal of glycols has a real impact on the penetration of the formula.

[0111] Concerning TEST 4 concerning the application of the “mature skin” serum before the cream, the serum with 3% Biophilic (trademark) remains the most effective, with an increase in the penetration percentage of 286% for the Biophilic (registered trademark) with glycol, compared to the cream alone, and we see once again that the presence of glycols plays an important role. REFERENCES

[0112] FR3010306.

[0113] Ogiso et al. : “Percutaneous penetration of fluorescein isothiocyanate-dextrans and the mechanism for enhanced effect of enhancers on the intercellular penetration”, Biol Pharm Bul. 1995 Nov;18(l 1):1566-71.

[0114] Chen et al. : “Skin penetration and deposition of carboxyfluorescein and temoporfin from different lipid vesicular Systems: In vitro study with finite and infinite dosage application”, 2011 Apr 15;408(l-2):223-34.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic serum comprising at least one phospholipid and at least one glycol, as a treatment prior to the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one active ingredient, said cosmetic serum promoting the penetration of the at least one active ingredient of the cosmetic composition into the skin, in which the at least one phospholipid is lecithin, and the at least one glycol is pentylene glycol and / or glycerin.

2. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, said treatment being a firming treatment, in which the at least one active ingredient is preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, agents promoting firmness and elasticity, and agents refining skin texture.

3. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, the treatment being a treatment for mature skin, in which the at least one active ingredient is preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, anti-aging or anti-wrinkle agents, densifying agents, anti-blemish agents, and agents for treating mature skin.

4. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the percentage by weight of said glycol relative to the total weight of the cosmetic serum is between 3 and 15%, preferably between 5 and 15%.

5. Cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the percentage by weight of said phospholipid relative to the total weight of the cosmetic serum is between 1 and 5%, preferably between 1 and 3%.

6. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one other glycol chosen from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, diglycerin, methylpro-panediol, 1,2-hexanediol, propanediol, and mixtures thereof.

7. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one phospholipid is soy lecithin.

8. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said serum further comprises glycerin.

9. A cosmetic serum comprising at least one phospholipid and at least one glycol, wherein the at least one phospholipid is lecithin, and the at least one glycol is pentylene glycol and / or glycerin.

10. A cosmetic serum according to claim 10, wherein said at least one phospholipid and said at least one glycol are as defined in any one of claims 3 to 5.

11. Non-therapeutic cosmetic care method comprising the following steps: - application to the skin of a cosmetic serum as defined in any one of claims 6 or 7, then - application to the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one active ingredient.

12. Care kit comprising: a. a first container containing a cosmetic serum defined in any one of claims 6 or 7, and b. a second container containing a cosmetic composition comprising at least one active ingredient.

13. Care kit according to claim 9, in which the care is a firming care.

14. Care kit according to claim 9, in which the care is a care for mature skin.

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