A hair treatment process comprising the application of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an aqueous phase, an oily phase, and a polymer

Abstract

Hair treatment method comprising the application of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an aqueous phase, an oily phase, and a polymer. The present invention relates to a hair treatment method comprising the application of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: - at least one aqueous phase, - at least one oily phase comprising at least one oily substance, - at least one polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit. Figure for the abstract: NONE

Description

Title of the invention: Method for treating hair comprising the application of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an aqueous phase, a fatty phase and a polymer

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for treating hair comprising the application of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one aqueous phase, at least one fatty phase and at least one specific polymer.

[0002] The quality, condition and appearance of hair can be negatively affected by many factors, such as excessive use of hair dryers and straighteners, lack of humidity, mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, and humid weather. Hair can therefore be damaged by these different factors and over time become dry, frizzy, coarse, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends. When the humidity in the air increases, the hair shafts become more electric and repel each other, which leads to frizz.

[0003] In addition to frizz, curly and wavy hair can also suffer from less than ideal volume and lack of shape, mainly due to the physical characteristics of the hair shafts and excessive dryness. In addition, loss of hair health caused by a lack of moisture or excessive chemical processing can make hair porous and therefore less manageable throughout the day. As a result, hair becomes unmanageable and unruly, and loses its natural shape and / or curl definition.

[0004] Curly and wavy hair is also difficult to comb and detangle, leading to hair breakage due to repeated and difficult maintenance.

[0005] Thus, one area in which manufacturers are always seeking to improve is that of cosmetic hair products, such as products designed to provide hair care benefits such as manageability, frizz control, volume reduction, easy detangling and improvement of hair fiber quality and / or to alter the appearance, shape or configuration of the hair, as well as to have textures and consistencies that are desirable and attractive to consumers. Examples of such cosmetic hair products are conditioning shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums, hair repair products and other hair treatment products. These products can provide the hair with good cosmetic properties; however, users sometimes feel that their hair becomes limp, flat or weighed down by the product and / or become greasy. When the product is too thick, it can also be difficult to distribute evenly when applied to the hair. Other products, such as oil serums or hair oils, are designed to improve the visual appearance of the hair, particularly by reducing frizz, while providing manageability and a level of volume control. Other types of products use polymers such as film-forming polymers, gums, and polysaccharides.

[0006] However, the introduction of certain ingredients may pose formulation challenges; for example, the products may become sticky or tacky upon application and, once dry, may become stiff and / or "crunchy" (i.e., the film is hard and brittle, resulting in a crunchy feeling or sound when touching the hair), which is undesirable for many consumers. In addition, the performance of these products may not be optimal, including effectiveness in reducing frizz, ease of application of the composition, ability to deliver other active ingredients to the hair, reducing / preventing the damaged feel or appearance of the hair, especially after or during chemical treatment of the hair, and the final cosmetic and feel of the treated hair.Some leave-in formulations containing a lot of oils and waxes can cause buildup on the hair, application after application.

[0007] There is therefore always a need to develop new compositions for hair that are suitable for the cosmetic field, and that are capable of effectively providing a smooth visual appearance of the hair; a good feel and conditioning sensation of the hair, and in particular of wet hair; control, or even elimination, of frizz, and also control or reduction of the volume and apparent mass of the hair. At the same time, there is also a need to develop products that have interesting and desirable textures, consistencies and appearance.

[0008] An object of the present invention is to provide a method of treating hair involving compositions having a fresher than normal texture, which breaks easily, provides moisture and retains moisture for a period of time.

[0009] Another object of the present invention is to provide a method of treating hair involving compositions which do not give a sticky feeling, which do not flake on the hair and which durably improve combing, shine, flexibility and softness.

[0010] Another object of the present invention is to provide a fat deposition system which allows the majority of the fat to be deposited uniformly. on the hair surface, which improves the combing performance and hair hydration of the formula.

[0011] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention, which relates to:

[0012] a method of treating hair comprising applying an emulsion oil-in-water comprising:

[0013] - at least one aqueous phase,

[0014] - at least one fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance,

[0015] - at least one polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylp acid unit ropanesulfonic acid.

[0016] Another object of the invention is the use of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

[0017] - at least one aqueous phase,

[0018] - at least one fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance,

[0019] - at least one polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylp acid unit ropanesulfonic acid as a fat deposition system.

[0020] The method for treating hair according to the present invention results in particular in the uniform deposition of the substances of the fatty phase on the surface of the hair due to the absence of surfactant, which makes it possible to resurface damaged and dry hair. The method is therefore improved by the uniform deposition of the fatty substances on the surface of the hair and in the absence of surfactants other than the polymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit, as described below, which makes it possible to resurface damaged and dry hair.

[0021] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.

[0022] The expression "at least one" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0023] The expression "between X and Y" means the range of values ​​also including the limits X and Y.

[0024] As used herein, the term "aqueous phase" means a phase comprising water and generally any molecule in dissolved form in water in the composition.

[0025] All percentages, parts, and ratios are by weight of the total composition unless otherwise indicated. All such weights, to the extent they relate to the listed ingredients, are based on the level of specific ingredients and, therefore, do not include solvents, carriers, by-products, fillers, or other minor ingredients that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise indicated.

[0026] The term “emulsion” designates any macroscopically homogeneous and kinetically stable composition comprising at least two mutually immiscible phases; one being a continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. Both phases are kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system.

[0027] A distinction is made between oil-in-water emulsions, called "direct" emulsions, consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous oily dispersed phase, and water-in-oil emulsions, called inverse emulsions, consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase and a discontinuous aqueous dispersed phase. There are also multiple emulsions, for example water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.

[0028] The term "emulsifying system" means any compound or mixture of compounds that can increase the kinetic stability of an emulsion.

[0029] The term "fatty substance" designates an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0030] For the purposes of the invention, the term “oily phase” designates a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

[0031] The term “oil” designates any fatty substance which is in liquid form at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0032] The term “non-silicone oil” means an oil containing no silicon (Si) atoms and the term “silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one silicon atom. Oil-in-water emulsion

[0033] The emulsions according to the invention are oil-in-water emulsions.

[0034] The oil-in-water emulsions according to the present invention are notably stable, in particular for 2 months at room temperature and even at 37°C or 45°C and they have optimal cosmetic properties. Indeed, the emulsions according to the present invention have an appropriate fluidity: they are easy to handle and even easier to apply and spread on the hair.

[0035] An emulsion is stable if there is no change in its macroscopic or microscopic appearance and its physicochemical characteristics (drop size, pH, viscosity) is observed after storage at different temperatures (T = 4°C, Tambiante, 40°C and 45°C) for a period of 2 months.

[0036] Furthermore, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention have a texture known as a “quick-break” effect.

[0037] Thus, when the emulsion as defined above is applied to the hair, its structure is broken, which gives a pleasant freshness effect on the scalp and easier application known as “quick break”.

[0038] Such a product meets the expectations of potential users who are not currently satisfied with the sensory performance qualities demonstrated by current products.

[0039] Thus, the compositions according to the invention prove to be particularly advantageous with regard to the sensory sensation that they provide to the user at the time of application.

[0040] When applied to the surface of the hair, the texture of the composition breaks under the effect of the shear generated when it is spread by the user on the surface of the keratinous materials, thus providing an immediate freshness effect.

[0041] As regards the sensory sensation, the compositions according to the invention prove to be soft and light to the touch and have a slippery character which makes them easy to apply.

[0042] These emulsions also have a texture required for cosmetic use: they are not sticky and are soft to the touch. Aqueous phase

[0043] The oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention comprise at least one aqueous phase.

[0044] The aqueous phase of the present invention contains water and may contain other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Water-soluble or water-miscible solvents include short-chain monoalcohols, for example CrC8 or C1-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, for example ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, caprylyl glycol and sorbitol. Propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol and 1,3-propanediol will be more particularly used.

[0046] In one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the present invention contains water and water-soluble or miscible solvents selected from monoalcohols, diols and polyols and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol and 1,3-propanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0047] The amount of water preferably ranges from 60% to 98% by weight, and more preferably from 75% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0048] The amount of water-soluble or water-miscible solvents preferably ranges from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and even better from 0.2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. Fatty phase

[0049] The oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention comprise at least one fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance.

[0050] Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention do not contain any salified or non-salified carboxylic acid group (COOH or COO). In particular, the fatty substances of the invention are neither polyoxyalkylenated nor polyglycerolated.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty phase is an oily phase.

[0052] The fatty substances may be chosen from petroleum jelly, C6-C16 alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes and silicones.

[0053] It is recalled that, in the context of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly comprise at least one saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0054] As for C6-Ci6 alkanes, they are linear, branched or possibly cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

[0055] As oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin which can be used in the composition of the invention, the following may in particular be included:

[0056] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

[0057] - triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, coconut oil and shea oil;

[0058] - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, petrolatum, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes or hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®;

[0059] - fluorinated oils, for example perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3- dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-(trifluoromethyl)perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.

[0060] The fatty alcohols suitable for the invention are non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated. They are in particular those of formula R-OH with R representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl group or a linear or branched C8-C40 alkenyl group. More particularly, the fatty alcohols are unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0061] Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecan-1-ol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol. More particularly, the alcohols are C20-C22 alcohols.

[0062] As regards the esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may in particular be made of esters of C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, and of C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0063] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

[0064] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0065] We can notably cite: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoylstearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

[0066] Among the above-mentioned esters, it is preferable to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

[0067] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds comprising several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0068] Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0069] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group consisting of the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C6-C30 and preferably C12 fatty acids. -C22. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0070] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates or arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed oleate / palmitate, oleate / stearate or palmitate / stearate esters.

[0072] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleates / palmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates or -oleates / stearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0073] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0074] Examples of esters or mixtures of sugar and fatty acid esters that may also be mentioned include:

[0075] - the products sold under the names F160, F140, Fl 10, F90, F70 and SL40 by the Crodesta company, designating respectively sucrose palmitates / stearates formed of 73% monoester and 27% diester and triester, 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;

[0076] - products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester, triester and polyester;

[0077] - sucrose monopalmitate / stearate-dipalmitate / stearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

[0078] The non-silicone wax(es) is (are) chosen in particular from camauba wax, candelilla wax, alfa wax, paraffin, ozokerite, vegetable waxes, such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flowers sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina); the other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as that sold by Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

[0079] The silicones which can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or non-volatile and cyclic, linear or branched, non- modified or modified by organic groups, having a viscosity of 5x106 at 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably of 1x105 at 1 m2 / s.

[0080] The silicones that can be used according to the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

[0081] Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

[0082] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0083] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0084] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

[0086] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclo tetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0087] (ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5x106 m2 / s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics."

[0088] Preferably, non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof are used.

[0089] These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to the ASTM 445 Annex C standard.

[0090] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation:

[0091] - Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0092] - oils from the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;

[0093] - Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC 200, the viscosity is 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0094] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0095] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0096] In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also cite the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9 800 and 9 801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are polydialkyl(C1-C2o)siloxanes.

[0097] The silicone gums that can be used according to the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with a high number-average molecular mass, between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane or tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

[0098] The products which can be used more particularly according to the invention are mixtures such as:

[0099] - mixtures formed from a hydroxy-terminated polydimethylsiloxane or dimethiconol (CTFA), and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the Dow Corning company;

[0100] - mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1 214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric; this product is a gum SF 30 corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000, dissolved in the oil SF 1 202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

[0101] - mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above with a viscosity of 20 m2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5x106 m2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.

[0102] The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:

[0103] R2SiO2 / 2, R3SiO1 / 2, RSiO3 / 2 and SiO4 / 2

[0104] in which R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those which are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower C1-C4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

[0105] Among these resins, we can cite the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones with a dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structure.

[0106] Mention may also be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

[0107] The organomodified silicones which can be used according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

[0108] In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

[0109] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen in particular from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes whose viscosity is between 1x105 and 5x102 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0110] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may in particular be made of the products sold under the following names: Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the PK20 product; silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; some General Electric SF series oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0111] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

[0112] - polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups comprising optionally C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products called dimethicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 oils from Union Carbide, and the alkyl(C12) methicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;

[0113] - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as products sold under the name of GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by Genesee, or products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning. Substituted amino groups include C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;

[0114] - alkoxy groups such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt.

[0115] Preferably, the fatty substances do not contain C2-C3 oxyalkylene units or glycerol units.

[0116] More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0117] Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from petroleum jelly, C6-C16 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, liquid fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

[0118] Better still, the fatty substance is chosen from petroleum jelly.

[0119] Preferably, the amount of fatty substance ranges from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, better still from 8% to approximately 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0120] Preferably, the amount of petroleum jelly ranges from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, better still from 8% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0121] Polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit

[0122] The oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention comprise at least one polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit.

[0123] In the present application, the expression “polymer comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid units” (AMPS) designates both homopolymers as well as copolymers, and both crosslinked and non-crosslinked polymers.

[0124] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polymer” designates a compound comprising at least two repeating units and in particular at least five repeating units.

[0125] Preferably, the AMPS polymers used according to the invention may be partially or completely neutralized with an inorganic base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an amino-methylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized. In the present invention, the term "neutralized" refers to polymers which have been completely or almost completely neutralized, i.e. neutralized to at least 90%.

[0126] The AMPS polymers used in the oil-in-water emulsion of the invention generally have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000, and more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol.

[0127] Preferably, the AMPS polymers used in the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are amphiphilic polymers.

[0128] For the purposes of the invention, the term "amphiphilic polymer" designates a polymer having amphiphilic properties, i.e. having at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part. Hydrophilic groups and hydrophobic groups are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0129] The amphiphilic polymers considered according to the invention are amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit.

[0130] The amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit which can be used in the present invention, also referred to more simply as “amphiphilic AMPS polymers” hereinafter, comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain.

[0131] The fatty chain present in said amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may preferably comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 7 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0132] The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention are in particular chosen from amphiphilic polymers of at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 7 to 30 atoms. of carbon and in particular from 7 to 26 carbon atoms or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0133] The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention generally have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 100,000 to 8,000,000 g / mol and even more particularly from 100,000 to 7,000,000 g / mol.

[0134] They can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0135] When the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0136] Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebis(acrylamide), methylenebis(methacrylamide), triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar series alcohols, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0137] The crosslinking agents may be chosen in particular from methylenebis(acrylamide), allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).

[0138] The degree of crosslinking may range, for example, from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and preferably from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

[0139] The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may be chosen in particular from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154.

[0140] An amphiphilic polymer which is suitable for use in the invention may comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic comonomer selected, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0141] An amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer.

[0142] An amphiphilic polymer which is suitable for use in the invention may comprise at least one hydrophobic moiety selected from saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl radicals, for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl and oleyl, branched alkyl radicals, for example isostearyl, or cyclic alkyl radicals, for example cyclododecane or adamantane.

[0143] An amphiphilic AMPS polymer may also contain at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer comprising, for example:

[0144] - a C7-Ci8 fluoro or fluoroalkyl radical (for example the group of formula -(CH 2)2-(CF2)9-CF3),

[0145] - a cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol-based radical (for example hexanoate of cholesterol),

[0146] - a polycyclic aromatic group, for example naphthalene or pyrene,

[0147] - a silicone, alkylsilicone or alkylfluorosilicone radical.

[0148] These copolymers are described in particular in document EP-A-0 750 899, patent US-A-5 089 578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

[0149] - Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nano structure s - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336;

[0150] - Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2- methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering- Macromolecules 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 -3694 to 3704;

[0151] - Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: known effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324 to 5332;

[0152] - Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2- methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. (1999), 40(2), 220-221.

[0153] They are also described in documents EP 1 069 142, WO 02 / 44224, WO 02 / 44225, WO 02 / 44227, WO 02 / 44229, WO 02 / 44230, WO 02 / 44231, WO 02 / 44267, WO 02 / 44268, WO 02 / 44269, WO 02 / 44270, WO 02 / 44271, WO 02 / 43677, WO 02 / 43686, WO 02 / 43687, WO 02 / 43688 and WO 02 / 43689, in the name of Clariant.

[0154] An ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer of the invention may preferably be chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (I) below: R s ® I —C—c— H, o= c Y- Rb

[0155] in which:

[0156] - Ra denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl; - Y denotes O or NH;

[0157] - Rb denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain comprising 7 with 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0158] The hydrophobic radical Rb is chosen from linear saturated or unsaturated C7-C22 alkyl radicals (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched alkyl radicals (for example isostearic) or cyclic radicals (for example cyclododecane or adamantane); C7-C18 alkylperfluoro radicals (for example the group of formula -(CH2)2(CF2)9-CF3); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester, for example cholesteryl hexanoate; aromatic polycyclic groups, for example naphthalene or pyrene.

[0159] Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are more particularly preferred.

[0160] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic radical Rb may also comprise at least one alkylene oxide unit and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain.

[0161] The polyoxyalkylene chain may preferably consist of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and more particularly still consist solely of ethylene oxide units.

[0162] The number of moles of oxyalkylene units can generally range from 1 to 30 moles, more preferably from 1 to 25 moles and even more preferably from 3 to 20 moles.

[0163] Among these polymers, we can cite:

[0164] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15% to 60 % by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of C8-C16 alkyl (meth)acrylamide units or C8-C16 alkyl (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 750 899;

[0165] - terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of units acrylamide, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-alkyl(C6-C18)acrylamide units relative to the polymer, such as those described in US-A-5,089,578;

[0166] - non-crosslinked copolymers of partially or totally neutralized AMPS and n-dodecyl methacrylate, n-hexadecyl methacrylate or n-octadecyl methacrylate, such as those described in the aforementioned Morishima articles;

[0167] - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS partially or totally neutralized and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the aforementioned Morishima articles.

[0168] Amphiphilic AMPS polymers that may also be mentioned include copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and / or n-octadecyl methacrylate, as well as uncrosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide.

[0169] Mention will be made more particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS consisting of: a. 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units of formula (II) below: O NH--c —CH2SO3 ■ x+ CH,

[0170] wherein X is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion; and

[0171] b) patterns of formula (III) below: (HD R —C—C— h2 o= ç O-(CH2CH2O>-(CH2CH(CH3K>)p-Rc

[0172] in which n and p, independently of each other, represent a number of moles and range from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 25 and more preferably from 3 to 20, provided that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and better still less than 20; Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl, and Rc represents a linear or branched alkyl containing from 7 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0173] In formula (II), the cation X more particularly denotes sodium or ammonium.

[0174] Among the monomers of formula (III), we can cite:

[0175] - polyoxyethylenated esters of (meth)acrylic acid and a C10-C18 fatty alcohol with 8 moles of ethylene oxide, for example the product Genapol C-080® sold by the company Clariant,

[0176] - polyoxyethylenated esters of (meth)acrylic acid and a Cn fatty oxoalcohol with 8 moles of ethylene oxide, for example the product Genapol UD-080® sold by the company Clariant,

[0177] - polyoxyethylenated esters of (meth)acrylic acid and a C12-C14 fatty alcohol with 7 moles of ethylene oxide, for example the product Genapol LA-070® sold by the company Clariant,

[0178] - polyoxyethylenated esters of (meth)acrylic acid and a C12-C14 fatty alcohol with 11 moles of ethylene oxide, for example the product Genapol LA-110® sold by the company Clariant,

[0179] - polyoxyethylenated esters of (meth)acrylic acid and a C16-C18 fatty alcohol with 8 moles of ethylene oxide, for example the product Genapol T-080® sold by the company Clariant,

[0180] - polyoxyethylenated esters of (meth)acrylic acid and a C16-C18 fatty alcohol with 15 moles of ethylene oxide, for example the product Genapol T-150® sold by the company Clariant,

[0181] - polyoxyethylenated esters of (meth)acrylic acid and a C16-C18 fatty alcohol with 11 moles of ethylene oxide, for example the product Genapol Tl 10® sold by the company Clariant,

[0182] - polyoxyethylenated esters of (meth)acrylic acid and a C16-C18 fatty alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide, for example the product Genapol T-200® sold by the company Clariant,

[0183] - polyoxyethylenated esters of (meth)acrylic acid and a C16-C18 fatty alcohol with 25 moles of ethylene oxide, for example the product Genapol T-250® sold by the company Clariant,

[0184] - polyoxyethylenated esters of (meth)acrylic acid and a C18-C22 fatty alcohol with 25 moles of ethylene oxide and / or a polyoxyethylenated C16-C18 fatty isoalcohol with 25 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0185] The products which will be more particularly chosen are:

[0186] - non-crosslinked products for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, Represents a methyl and Rc represents a mixture of C12-C14 or C16-C18 alkyl,

[0187] - crosslinked products for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, Ra represents a methyl and Rc represents a mixture of C16-C18 alkyl.

[0188] These polymers are described and synthesized in patent application EP 1 069 142.

[0189] These particular amphiphilic AMPS polymers can be obtained according to conventional radical polymerization processes in the presence of one or more initiators, for example azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2,2-azobis(2-amidinopropane) hydrochloride (ABAH), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide, inorganic peroxides such as potassium or ammonium persulfate, or H2O2 optionally in the presence of reducing agents.

[0190] These amphiphilic AMPS polymers can be obtained in particular by radical polymerization in a tert-butanol medium, in which they precipitate. By using precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a size distribution of the polymer particles which is particularly favorable for its uses.

[0191] The reaction can be carried out at a temperature between 0 and 150°C and preferably between 10 and 100°C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure.

[0192] It can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.

[0193] The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention can preferably be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They can in particular be totally or almost totally neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 80%.

[0194] The molar percentage concentration of the units of formula (II) and the units of formula (III) in the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may vary depending on the desired cosmetic application, for example the nature of the emulsion (oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion) and the desired rheological properties of the formulation. It may be, for example, between 0.1 mol% and 99.9 mol%.

[0195] Preferably, for the most hydrophobic polymers, the molar proportion of units of formula (I) or (III) ranges from 50.1% to 99.9%, more particularly from 70% to 95% and even more particularly from 80% to 90%.

[0196] Preferably, for weakly hydrophobic polymers, the molar proportion of units of formula (I) or (III) ranges from 0.1% to 50%, more particularly from 5% to 25% and even more particularly from 10% to 20%.

[0197] The distribution of the monomers in the AMPS polymers according to the invention may be, for example, alternating, sequenced (including multi-sequenced) or random.

[0198] For information purposes, and without this being limiting, we can notably cite:

[0199] - a non-crosslinked copolymer of 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and a C12-C14 alkyl methacrylate polyethoxylated with 25 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer) (non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and AMPS) sold under the name Aristoflex LNC by the company Clariant,

[0200] - a crosslinked copolymer of 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and polyethoxylated stearyl methacrylate with 25 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer) (crosslinked copolymer with trimethylolpropane triacrylate obtained from Genapol T-250 and AMPS) sold under the name Aristoflex HMS by the company Clariant,

[0201] - a non-crosslinked copolymer of 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and a C16 / C18 alkyl methacrylate polyethoxylated with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer) sold under the name Aristoflex SNC by the company Clariant,

[0202] - a crosslinked copolymer of 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and of polyethoxylated behenyl methacrylate with 25 moles of ethylene oxide, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer) sold under the name Aristoflex HMB or Hostacerin MCP by the company Clariant, and mixtures thereof.

[0203] According to a preferred embodiment, the polymer used according to the invention is a copolymer of AMPS and polyethoxylated behenyl methacrylate with 25 moles of ethylene oxide, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer) sold under the name Aristoflex HMB or Hostacerin MCP by the company Clariant, and mixtures thereof.

[0204] The total amount of polymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0205] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion does not contain any emulsifying agent other than the amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit. Starches

[0206] The oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention may comprise one or more starches.

[0207] Preferably, the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprises one or more starches, different from the AMPS (co)polymers as defined above.

[0208] More preferably, the fatty phase according to the invention comprises one or more starches, different from the AMPS (co)polymers as defined above.

[0209] Starches that can be used in the present invention are, for example, corn starch, potato starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, wheat starch and cassava starch.

[0210] Starches may or may not be modified.

[0211] A modified starch is a starch that has been modified by processes known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking or enzymatic conversion.

[0212] Non-limiting examples of modified starch include aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, starch acetate, and sodium starch glycolate.

[0213] Particularly preferred modified starches for use in the present invention are starch phosphates such as:

[0214] mono-starch phosphates of formula (la), Am-0-P0-(0X)2 (la);

[0215] distarch phosphates of formula (Ha), Am-0-P0-(0X)-0-Am (lia);

[0216] tristarch phosphates of formula (Ilia), Am-0-P0-(0-Am)2 (Ilia);

[0217] and mixtures thereof, and they can in particular be obtained by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds

[0218] in which:

[0219] Am represents starch; and

[0220] X represents alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium or magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts, for example those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, or ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, or citrulline.

[0221] The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

[0222] Particularly suitable starch phosphates that may be employed in the compositions of the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, starch hydroxypropyl phosphate.

[0223] A particularly preferred modified starch for use in the present invention is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, commercially available under the trademark STRUCTURE ZEA, from Akzo Nobel.

[0224] The total amount of starch(es), other than the AMPS (co)polymers as defined above, preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion. Thickeners

[0225] The oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention may comprise one or more thickeners, different from the AMPS (co)polymers defined above and different from the starches defined above.

[0226] Preferably, the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprises one or more thickeners, different from the AMPS (co)polymers defined above and different from the starches defined above.

[0227] More preferably, the fatty phase according to the invention comprises one or more thickeners, different from the AMPS (co)polymers defined above and different from the starches defined above.

[0228] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickener" means an agent which, due to its presence in the composition, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of said composition by at least 10 cPs and preferably by at least 200 cPs, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s '. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0229] The thickener(s) may be chosen from sodium chloride, fatty acid amides obtained from Cio-C3O carboxylic acid (monoisopropanolamide, diethanolamide or monoethanolamide of coconut acid, monoethanolamide of oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid), polymeric thickeners and in particular non-ionic polymers based on cellulose (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and non-ionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), homopolymers and copolymers, crosslinked or not. based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and associative polymers as described below, and mixtures thereof.

[0230] The associative polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. The associative polymer(s) that can be used according to the invention may be of the anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic type, such as the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TRI or TR2 by the company Goodrich (INCI: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Salcare SC90 by the company Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company Rohm & Haas and Elfacos T210 and T212 by the company Akzo.

[0231] Preferably, the thickener(s) is (are) chosen from guar gum and non-ionic derivatives thereof such as hydroxypropylguar.

[0232] The total amount of thickeners other than the AMPS (co)polymers and starches described above preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0233] According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is a hair treatment method comprising the application of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

[0234] - at least one aqueous phase,

[0235] - at least one fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance,

[0236] - at least one polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylp acid unit ropanesulfonic acid,

[0237] - optionally at least one starch, different from the AMPS (co)polymers as defined above, preferably selected from aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, starch acetate and sodium starch glycolate;

[0238] - optionally at least one thickener different from the AMPS (co)polymer and the (of) starch(es) as defined above, preferably chosen from guar gum and non-ionic derivatives thereof such as hydroxypropylguar. Dosage forms

[0239] The emulsions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of oil-in-water emulsions. They can come in the form of a cream, milk, gel or cream gel. They can optionally come in the form of a mousse or spray.

[0240] The emulsification processes that can be used are of the blade or propeller type, rotor-stator and HPH.

[0241] In order to obtain stable emulsions with a low polymer content (oil / polymer ratio > 25), it is possible to prepare the dispersion in concentrated phase and then dilute the dispersion with the rest of the aqueous phase.

[0242] It is also possible, by means of an HPH (between 50 and 800 bars), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes which can be as small as 100 nm.

[0243] The aqueous phase of the emulsions may comprise a non-ionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol., 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008). Auxiliary ingredients

[0244] The emulsions according to the invention may also comprise any auxiliary ingredient usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from conditioning agents, humectants, glossing agents, fillers, colorants, pigments, chelating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, preservatives, stabilizers, antioxidants, and mixtures thereof.

[0245] It is common for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention so that their cosmetic properties and their desired stability properties are not affected.

[0246] These auxiliary ingredients are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetic field, for example from 0.01% to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and, depending on their nature, they are introduced into the aqueous phase of the emulsion or into the fatty phase, or alternatively into vesicles or any other type of vector. Preparation processes

[0247] The compositions of the invention are advantageously prepared according to a process in which the fatty phase, comprising the fatty substances, is emulsified in the aqueous phase (into which the polymers have been introduced), with gentle stirring, i.e. at low shear.

[0248] Stirring is preferably carried out using a magnetic bar or any other stirring system allowing low stirring and therefore low energy, at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 45°C.

[0249] “Low agitation” means agitation carried out at a shear rate of less than 1000 s'.

[0250] An object of the invention is therefore also a process for preparing the emulsions as described above, in which the fatty phase is introduced into the aqueous phase, comprising the polymers, with low shear.

[0251] Thus, the low shear emulsification process can be carried out with any other stirring system which provides low agitation and is therefore low energy, for example:

[0252] - using a blade or a propeller,

[0253] - with a turbomixer of the Moritz homogenizer type,

[0254] - in a tank equipped with a bottom turbomixer, a scraper blade or a central counter-rotating mixing blade and heating / cooling by the tank jacket. Examples include the Macef and Maxilab tanks from the Olsa company, as well as the tanks marketed by the Pierre Guérin company,

[0255] - using a colloid mill,

[0256] - using a static emulsifier,

[0257] - with an in-line turbomixer, for example IKA® or KMF® brand.

[0258] This process is decisive for obtaining large oil globules according to the invention.

[0259] A preparation method may be as follows: the fatty phase is prepared by stirring using a turbomixer for 15 minutes at 3,000 rpm. Separately, the aqueous phase and the preservatives are heated to 80°C with stirring at 1,000 rpm for 10 minutes. The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymer is then added with stirring at 3,500 rpm for 10 minutes, and the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymer is then added. The mixture is left stirring at 3,500 rpm for 30 minutes.

[0260] The mixture is cooled to 50°C and the gelling agents are added with stirring at 3,000 rpm for 15 minutes. The mixture is cooled again to room temperature (25°C) and the fillers are then added. Finally, the fatty phase and the alcohol are added with stirring using a turbomixer at 3,000 rpm for 10 to 15 minutes. Hair treatment process

[0261] The oil-in-water emulsion may result from the preparation process as described above.

[0262] The emulsion is applied to the hair and then left in place for a period generally ranging from 1 minute to 2 hours, preferably from 5 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes and better still from 10 minutes to 1 hour.

[0263] Advantageously, after application of the hair emulsion, the hair can be subjected to a heat treatment. In practice, this operation can be carried out using a hair dryer, hair dryer, infrared heater or other common heating devices.

[0264] The temperature during the process is typically between room temperature (between 15 and 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.

[0265] After treatment, the hair is optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried (mechanically with a towel or absorbent paper, or by heat) or left to dry.

[0266] After treatment, the hair may be styled and preferably the hair is styled before being dried.

[0267] According to one embodiment, after the treatment, the hair is not rinsed.

[0268] Emulsion products can be applied to dry or wet hair and may or may not include hair extension by braiding, twisting or Bantu knots and allowing the hair to dry before removing the above. Examples

[0269] Composition A according to the invention was prepared. The proportions of the ingredients are indicated in grams of active ingredient per 100 g of composition, unless otherwise indicated.

[0270] [Tables 1] Ingredients A PETROLATUM 16.2 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 Polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit 0.8 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.5 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 0.3 HYDROLYZED VEGETABLE PROTEIN PG-PROPYL S ILANETRIOL 0.03 GLYCERIN 2 HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE 0.44 PARFUM 0.5 Water QSP 100 Application process

[0271] The tests were carried out on medium-length natural hair.

[0272] The hair was previously washed with shampoo and then left to dry naturally. Composition A was then applied to the hair and left on the hair without rinsing.

[0273] The results were evaluated by 20 consumers:

[0274] - 18 out of 20 consumers surveyed found that composition A according to the invention promotes hair manageability, with a feeling of soft, bouncy and detangled hair;

[0275] - 16 out of 20 consumers surveyed found that the hair is easy to combing and styling after applying composition A according to the invention;

[0276] - 18 out of 20 consumers surveyed found that the hair was moisturized and restored after application of composition A according to the invention.

Claims

Claims

1. A method of treating hair comprising the application of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: - at least one aqueous phase, - at least one fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance, - from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, of a crosslinked copolymer of 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and polyethoxylated behenyl methacrylate with 25 moles of ethylene oxide (crosslinked copolymer of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate), and mixtures thereof.; and - from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, of at least one starch other than the polymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit chosen from aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch, starch acetate and sodium starch glycolate, in which the oil-in-water emulsion does not contain an emulsifying agent other than the amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit.

2. Hair treatment process according to claim 1, in which the fatty substances are chosen from petroleum jelly, C6-C16 alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and / or of a fatty alcohol, non-silicone and silicone waxes, preferably petroleum jelly.

3. A method of treating hair according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of fatty substance ranges from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, better still from 8% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

4. A method of treating hair according to any preceding claim, wherein the starch(es) different from polymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit, is a hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

5. A method of treating hair according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion contains one or more thickeners, other than polymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit and other than starches, more preferably chosen from guar gum and non-ionic derivatives thereof such as hydroxypropylguar.