composition for cleansing and conditioning hair
The composition addresses the limitations of existing shampoos by using anionic surfactants, alpha-hydroxy acids, and cationic polymers to enhance cleansing and conditioning, achieving improved hair softness and manageability.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing shampoos fail to provide long-lasting cleanliness and conditioning, leading to frizz and hair damage due to anionic surfactants, and do not effectively remove stubborn sebum and dead cells from the scalp.
A composition comprising anionic surfactants, alpha-hydroxy acids, cationic polymers, and chelating agents, without silicon, which cleans and conditions hair by gently exfoliating and improving softness in both wet and dry states.
The composition ensures effective cleansing and conditioning, improving hair softness and manageability, while reducing frizz and damage, with a long-lasting effect.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition for cleansing and conditioning hair technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and conditioning hair. The present invention also relates to a process for cleaning and conditioning hair, context of art
[0002] Oily scalp and hair have become a bothersome scalp problem worldwide. People generally use an anti-grease shampoo to remove dirt and sebum from the scalp.
[0003] There are many shampoos developed to cleanse the hair and scalp.
[0004] For example, US9018150 B1 discloses a cleaning composition containing about 6% to about 20% of at least one nonionic surfactant; about 3% to about 10% of at least one amphoteric surfactant; about 2% to about 8% of at least one anionic surfactant; and about 0.1% to about 5% of at least one conditioning cationic surfactant, a conditioning cationic amine, or a combination thereof; in which the amount of nonionic surfactant present in the final composition is greater than the amount of amphoteric surfactant, and the ratio of the nonionic surfactant (a) to the anionic surfactant (c) is at least about 1.9 times that of the anionic surfactant, based on the weight percentage of each surfactant in the final composition.
[0005] However, with most commercial shampoos available, consumers are not satisfied with the lasting cleanliness between washes. Most commercial shampoos contain only surfactants as cleansing agents; they can only remove the liquid sebum that has just been secreted. The composition of this liquid sebum is transferred by fungi and bacteria to the scalp and forms stubborn sebum along with dead cells. Most shampoos can barely remove this stubborn sebum and are therefore not effective at cleaning oily scalps.
[0006] Anionic surfactants lift the hair cuticle to cleanse it deeply, but the lifted and rough cuticles also lead to frizz. In addition, consumers generally find that products containing anionic surfactants can be too drying and damaging in some cases of frequent use.
[0007] At the same time, hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather, and / or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perms and / or straightening.
[0008] Thus, it is desired that the shampoo not only clean the hair and scalp, but also condition the hair in such a way as to improve the softness of the hair in the wet and / or dry state.
[0009] Therefore, there is a need to develop compositions for cleansing and conditioning hair, which can provide a cleansing effect and good hair sensoriality, for example improving the softness of hair in the wet and / or dry state. Summary of the invention
[0010] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop compositions for the cleansing and conditioning of hair, which can provide a cleansing effect and good sensoriality of the hair, for example improving the softness of the hair in the wet and / or dry state.
[0011] Another object of the present invention is to propose a process for cleaning and conditioning hair.
[0012] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition for cleaning and conditioning hair comprising:
[0013] a) at least one anionic surfactant;
[0014] b) at least one alpha-hydroxy acid;
[0015] c) at least one cationic polymer; and
[0016] d) at least one chelating agent.
[0017] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is free of silicon.
[0018] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a hair cleaning and conditioning process comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair, then rinsing the hair with water after an optional exposure period.
[0019] The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can ensure a cleansing effect and a good conditioning effect so that the softness of the hair in the wet and / or dry state is improved.
[0020] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0021] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ...".
[0022] As used herein, the term "including" should be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional and unspecified features.
[0023] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the features specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0024] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by persons competent in the field to which the present invention relates. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by persons competent in the field to which the present invention relates, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0025] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values expressing the quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims should be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values that may be modified as needed to achieve the desired performance.
[0026] As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0027] As used herein, “conditioning” means imparting to the hair at least one property selected from compatibility, manageability, moisture retention, luster, shine, softness, and suppleness. The state of conditioning is assessed by comparing hair treated with the composition to be tested with hair treated with a commercial product.
[0028] As used herein, "silicon-free" means that no silicon-containing compound is intentionally added and that the content of the silicon-containing compound in the composition is less than 0.5% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, there is no silicon in the composition.
[0029] According to the first aspect of the present invention, a composition for cleansing and conditioning hair comprises:
[0030] a) at least one anionic surfactant;
[0031] b) at least one alpha-hydroxy acid;
[0032] c) at least one cationic polymer; and
[0033] d) at least one chelating agent. Anionic surfactants
[0034] According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
[0035] The term “anionic surfactant” refers to a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
[0036] In the present description, a species is said to be "anionic" when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and having no cationic charge.
[0037] Anionic surfactants can be sulfate and / or sulfonate surfactants.
[0038] It is understood in this description that:
[0039] - anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-) and may optionally also include one or more sulfate groups, but do not include carboxylate groups; and
[0040] - anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
[0041] Usable anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).
[0042] They can be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamide-sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfo-succinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds;
[0043] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0044] these compounds being possibly polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0045] Preferably, anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen, alone or in combination, from among:
[0046] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially lau- rylsulfosuccinates;
[0047] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates in C6-C24 and in particular in C12-C20;
[0048] - C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates,
[0049] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, of ammonium or amino alcohol.
[0050] Usable anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-).
[0051] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as salts of these compounds;
[0052] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
[0053] these compounds being optionally polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0054] Preferably, anionic sulfate-type surfactants are chosen, alone or in combination, from among:
[0055] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates,
[0056] - alkyl ether sulfates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in C12-C20, comprising preference for 2 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns;
[0057] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol.
[0058] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.
[0059] Among the amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned, one may include the salts of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, the salts of monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol and salts of tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane.
[0060] Preferably, alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0061] Preferably, anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in combination, from among:
[0062] - alkyl sulfates in C6-C24 and in particular in C12-C20;
[0063] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; comprising preference for 2 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns;
[0064] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;
[0065] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates in C6-C24 and in particular in C12-C20;
[0066] -C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates;
[0067] in particular in the form of alkali metal salts such as sodium or metal alkaline earth, ammonium or amino alcohol.
[0068] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and a combination thereof.
[0069] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 9% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 12% by weight to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alpha hydroxy acids
[0070] According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0071] By "alpha-hydroxyacid", according to the present invention, we mean a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group).
[0072] Suitable alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid.
[0073] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid and their combinations.
[0074] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid in the composition consists of lactic acid.
[0075] Lactic acid, or 2-hydroxypropanoic acid, gently exfoliates excess sebum, residue, and dead cells around the follicles, giving energy and bounce to the hair roots. Furthermore, lactic acid also stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the skin, thereby improving the skin's barrier function and hydration.
[0076] Advantageously, the alpha-hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1.5% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Beta-hydroxy acids
[0077] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one beta-hydroxy acid.
[0078] By “beta-hydroxy acid”, according to the present invention, we mean a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl function and a carboxylic function separated by two carbon atoms.
[0079] Suitable beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, beta-hydroxyacid, beta-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, their derivatives and combinations.
[0080] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivative of formula:
[0081] wherein R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or more double bonds, conjugated or not, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably 3 to 11 carbon atoms and being able to be substituted for example by at least one substituent selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a free carboxyl function or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0082] R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula:
[0083] wherein Ri is a linear or branched aliphatic group, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0084] Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.
[0085] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, acid 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and their combination.
[0086] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.
[0087] Salicylic acid, or 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, is added to the chemical scrub composition to allow for better penetration of the composition into the skin. Salicylic acid penetrates the skin more deeply than alpha-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid.
[0088] Advantageously, if present, the beta-hydroxy acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.3% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1% by weight to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089] The inventors have observed that the composition according to the present invention can effectively remove stubborn sebum. When alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids, in particular lactic acid and salicylic acid or its derivative, are combined, lactic acid can break down desmosomes and loosen dead cells, while salicylic acid or its derivative can penetrate deep into the follicles and loosen stubborn sebum. Thus, the combination of surfactant and hydroxy acids provides a long-lasting cleansing effect. Cationic polymer(s)
[0090] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic polymer.
[0091] Preferably, the cationic polymers may comprise monomer motifs derived from a quaternary amine and / or ammonium substituted monomer and / or compatible spacer monomers.
[0092] Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and l-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (called Polyquaternium-16) such as those commercially available from BASF under the brand name LUVIQUAT (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of l-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (called Polyquaternium-11) such as those marketed by Gar Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the brand name GAFQUAT (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N); and a cationic polymer containing a diallyl quaternary ammonium including, for example, a dimethyldiallyammonium chloride homopolymer and acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride copolymers (called Poly-quatemium-6 and Polyquaternium-7).
[0093] Other cationic polymers that can be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Cationic cellulose can be obtained from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR (registered trademark) and LR (registered trademark) polymer lines, in the form of hydroxyethyl cellulose salts that have reacted with a trimethylammonium substituted epoxide (called Polyquaternium-10). Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have reacted with a lauryldimethylammonium substituted epoxide (called Polyquaternium-24). These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the trade name Polymer LM-200. In addition, or as an alternative, cationic packaging polymers may include or be selected from cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0094] Preferably, the cationic polymer is chosen from among the polyquatemiums.
[0095] De manière davantage préférée, le polymère cationique est choisi parmi les poly-quatemium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, poly-quatemium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, poly-quatemium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, poly-quatemium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, poly-quatemium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, poly-quatemium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, poly-quatemium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, poly-quatemium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, poly-quatemium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, poly-quatemium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, poly-quatemium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, poly-quatemium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57,poly-quaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, poly-quaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, poly-quaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, and a combination thereof. ,
[0096] Preferably, the cationic polymer is polyquatemium-30.
[0097] Advantageously, the cationic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.15% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Chelating agent
[0098] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one chelating agent.
[0099] Preferably, the chelating agent is chosen from aminocarboxylic acids and their salts.
[0100] The salts include, in particular, alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts and substituted ammonium salts.
[0101] The chelating agents may be chosen in particular from the compounds with the following INCI names:
[0102] diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA),
[0103] ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS,
[0104] ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA),
[0105] ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG),
[0106] glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS),
[0107] 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS),
[0108] ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA),
[0109] N,N'-bis (2-hydroxybenzyl) ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED),
[0110] nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA),
[0111] methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA),
[0112] N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133),
[0113] iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in document EP-A-516 102),
[0114] beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid and aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in document EP-A-509 382),
[0115] iminodisuccinic acid-based chelating agents (IDSA) (described in document EP-A-509 382),
[0116] ethanoldiglycine acid, and
[0117] tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.
[0118] Among the chelating agents mentioned, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), S,S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA), as well as combinations thereof, are preferably used.
[0119] Preferably, the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.
[0120] It has been observed that a high concentration of acid leads to a problem with the adhesion of the cationic polymer to the surface of the hair fiber due to the electrostatic screening effect. The chelating agent can reduce the electrostatic screening effect, thereby improving the deposition of the cationic polymer.
[0121] Advantageously, the chelating agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 4% by weight, and in a manner preferred at 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] The inventors observed that, with the presence of the cationic polymer and the chelating agent, the softness of the hair in the wet and / or dry state was improved. Aqueous phase
[0123] The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.
[0124] Preferably, the aqueous phase is a continuous phase.
[0125] The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises water.
[0126] The aqueous phase may also include water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20-25°C), for example polyols such as C2-C6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol; glycol ethers (in particular containing 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and their combinations.
[0127] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 70% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients
[0128] The composition according to the present invention may also include any other additional ingredient commonly used in the field of self-cleaning products, in particular shampoos.
[0129] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional ingredients so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0130] For example, these additional ingredients include pH correcting agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the above, and combinations thereof.
[0131] Non-limiting examples of pH-correcting agents include potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, and combinations thereof.
[0132] The pH correcting agent is used in such an amount that the pH of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6.5, preferably from 2 to 6.5, more preferably from 3.5 to 4.5.
[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and conditioning hair, comprising, relative to the weight total composition
[0134] a) from 12% by weight to 18% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant;
[0135] b) from 2% by weight to 8% by weight of lactic acid and from 1% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and a combination thereof;
[0136] c) from 0.15% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one cationic polymer selected from polyquaterniums; and
[0137] d) from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one chelating agent selected from ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), S,S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP) and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA), and combinations thereof,
[0138] in which the pH of the composition is between 3.5 and 4.5. Preparation and use
[0139] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to d), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.
[0140] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0141] The composition according to the present invention may have a gel-like texture.
[0142] According to the second aspect of the present invention, a hair cleaning and conditioning process comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair, then rinsing with water after an optional exposure period is proposed.
[0143] The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be construed as limiting its scope. EXAMPLES
[0144] The main raw materials used, their trade names and supplier are listed in Table 1.
[0145] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Lactic acid L(+)-LACTIC ACID 90% HEAT STABLE PERSONAL CARE GRADE JUNGBUNZLAUER Salie y lie acid SALICYLIC ACID USP ALTA LABORATORIES Trisodium ethyle-nediamine di-succinate NATRLQUEST E30 INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS Polyquatemium-30 MEXOMERE PX CHIMEX (NOVEAL) Sodium laureth sulfate GALAXY LES 170-MB GALAXY SURFACTANTS
[0146] Inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4
[0147] Shampoos according to inventive examples (El.) 1-3 and comparative examples (EC.) 1-4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (contents are expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of each shampoo, unless otherwise stated):
[0148] [Tables2] Ingredients ELI EI.2 EC.1 EC.2 EC.3 EI.3 EC.4 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 Lactic Acid 6 6 6 6 - 7.5 - Salicylic Acid 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 0.20 - 3.50 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.37 0.19 - 0.37 0.37 0.37 0.37 Polyquaterium-30 0.22 0.22 0.22 - 0.22 0.22 0.22 Sodium Hydroxide 1.27 1.27 1.27 1.27 0.05 1.52 0.76 Water 75.6 75.8 76.0 75.9 84.2 74.43 78.19 PH 3.8 3.8 3.8 3.8 4.3 3.8 3.8
[0149] The shampoos of inventive examples (El.) 1-3 are compositions according to the present invention.
[0150] The shampoo of comparative example (EC.) 1 does not include any chelating agent selected from aminocarboxylic acids and their salts.
[0151] The shampoo in comparative example (EC.) 2 does not include a cationic polymer.
[0152] The shampoo in comparative example (EC.) 3 does not contain alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0153] The shampoo in comparative example (EC.) 4 does not contain alpha-hydroxy acid. Preparation procedure:
[0154] Each shampoo was prepared as follows, taking the shampoo from inventive example 1 to illustrate.
[0155] 1) Add polyquaterium-30 to water with stirring to form a base transparent at room temperature;
[0156] 2) add sodium laureth sulfate to the transparent base with stirring;
[0157] 3) add lactic acid, salicylic acid, ethylenediamine disuccinate trisodium and sodium hydroxide are used to make the shampoo. Assessment :
[0158] The conditioning effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:
[0159] I) Treat the hair with the test shampoo:
[0160] A bundle of damaged hair was selected. The hair was combed and wetted under running water. The test shampoo was applied evenly to the damaged hair from root to tip. The shampoo was gently massaged into the hair with two fingers from root to tip (without tangling) to create a lather. The shampoo was rinsed under running tap water until all the lather was removed.
[0161] II) Gentleness of rinsing:
[0162] The hair was stroked with two fingers from the root during rinsing; the degree of non-resistance was judged when the finger slid through the hair.
[0163] III) Evaluation of softness and suppleness in the wet state:
[0164] The hair was stroked with two fingers from the root, and the performance The shampoo was evaluated based on the softness of the hair surface.
[0165] The hair was curled from the tip using two fingers, and the flexibility of the hair was evaluated on the surface of the hair according to the ease of curling the sample and the force generated during the curling process.
[0166] IV) Evaluation of softness and suppleness in the dry state and of the coating of dry hair:
[0167] The hair was either naturally air-dried or blown in an oven at 60 °C until completely dry.
[0168] The hair was stroked with two fingers from the root, and the performance of the shampoo in terms of hair care was judged according to the softness of the hair surface.
[0169] The hair was stroked with two fingers from the root, and the intensity of the deposit and residue on the hair was judged.
[0170] The hair was curled from the tip using two fingers, and the flexibility of the hair was evaluated on the surface of the hair according to the ease of curling the sample and the force generated during the curling process.
[0171] A silicone-free shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP by L'Oréal) was used as a reference in parallel with the shampoo under test in the evaluation of the conditioning effect above.
[0172] The cleansing effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:
[0173] 6 volunteers were recruited, half of each volunteer's hair was one half of each volunteer's hair was washed with the test shampoo, and the other half was washed with a reference product.
[0174] A silicone-free shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP by L'Oréal) was used as a reference in the above cleansing effect assessment.
[0175] The cleansing effect scores of each shampoo in the test were given by the volunteers 24 hours after application and averaged.
[0176] The scores relating to the conditioning effect and the cleansing effect of each shampoo in the test were given by volunteers and averaged, the scores relating to the cleansing effect having been given 24 hours after application.
[0177] The rating standard for the conditioning effect and the cleansing effect of each shampoo tested is as follows.
[0178] — : the shampoo being tested is significantly inferior to the reference;
[0179] -the shampoo being tested is slightly inferior to the reference;
[0180] = : the shampoo being tested is similar to the reference;
[0181] +: the shampoo being tested is slightly superior to the reference; and
[0182] ++: the shampoo being tested is clearly superior to the reference.
[0183] The results of the conditioning and cleansing effects have been summarized in the Table 3.
[0184] [Tables3] ELI Properties El. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 El. 3 EC. 4 Rinse-off softness + + - + + + + Wet hair softness ++ + - — + + - Wet hair suppleness ++ + - - — + + Dry hair softness + + - — + + + Dry hair suppleness + + - — + + + Dry hair coating + + - — — — — Clean and lasting scalp + + + + - — -
[0185] It can be seen that the composition according to the present invention can ensure a cleansing effect and a good conditioning effect when applied, and the softness of the hair in the wet and dry state is improved.
[0186] It can also be seen that with the presence of both alpha-hydroxy acid and beta-hydroxy acid, a good cleaning effect was observed.
Claims
Demands
1. A hair cleansing and conditioning composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) 12% to 18% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant; b) 2% to 8% by weight of lactic acid and 1% to 4% by weight of at least one beta-hydroxy acid selected from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and a combination thereof; c) 0.15% to 2% by weight of at least one cationic polymer selected from polyquateriums;and d) from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one chelating agent selected from ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, S,S'-ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and combinations thereof, wherein the pH of the composition is from 3.5 to 4.5.;
2.
3. A composition according to claim 1, which is free of silicon. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from: - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, particularly C12-C20; - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, particularly C12-C20; preferably comprising 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C20, especially laurylsulfosuccinates; - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C20; - C6-C24 acylisethionates, and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates; in particular in the form of alkali metal salts such as sodium or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol; preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate and a combination thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cationic polymer is selected from polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, poly-
5. quaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquatemium-11, poly-quaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, poly-quaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, poly-quaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, poly-quaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, poly-quaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, poly-quaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, poly-quaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, poly-quaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, poly-quaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, poly-quaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, poly-quaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, poly-quaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, poly-quaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65,poly-quaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, and a combination thereof; more preferably, the cationic polymer is poly-quaternium-30. Hair cleansing and conditioning process comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1-4 to the hair, then rinsing the hair with water after an optional exposure period.