Two-phase hair care spray

Abstract

Hair treatment agents having two superimposed layers and a common interface, which comprise an aqueous phase and an oil phase comprising at least two specific esters, are suitable for hair care, in particular for improving hair shine, flexibility, ease of detangling, ease of combing and anti-frizz properties.

Description

Title of the invention: "Two-phase hair care spray"

[0001] The application describes a hair treatment agent having two superimposed layers and a common interface, and containing an aqueous phase and an oil phase which comprises at least two specific esters. The application further describes a hair conditioning method using the hair treatment agents, and the use of the hair treatment agents for improving specific hair care properties.

[0002] Two-phase hair conditioning agents have been known for a long time in the state of the art and are highly valued by consumers due to their attractive appearance and ease of use. These are generally leave-in care products, which are preferably applied to the hair (preferably by spraying) immediately after brief mixing of the two phases, and which nourish the hair.

[0003] The vast majority of these products contain silicones and / or alkoxylated emulsifiers in the oil phase.

[0004] To improve the sustainability and consumer acceptance of cosmetic products, there is an increasing effort to use raw materials of natural origin with good biodegradability in cosmetic products.

[0005] The present application aims to develop two-phase hair care products in which it is possible to dispense with the use of silicones and / or alkoxylated compounds. Instead, the hair care agents must comprise a high proportion of raw materials of natural origin, and exhibit good biodegradability, good stability and excellent care power.

[0006] It has been found that by combining specific esters in the oil phase, it is possible to prepare two-phase hair treatment agents meeting the above-mentioned requirements to a high degree.

[0007] The presence of (cyclic) silicones and / or alkoxylated compounds is not necessary for the stability or care properties of these hair treatment agents, since the combination of specific esters in specific amounts makes it possible to prepare two-phase systems with a continuous oil phase and an aqueous phase, stable during storage in a wide temperature range (-20 °C to 45 °C). The two phases can be mixed and separated quickly and thoroughly.

[0008] Furthermore, the hair treatment agents according to the invention have a demonstrable conditioning advantage over hair treated with said agents. In particular, the use of agents according to the invention has made it possible to improve the ease of combing, detangling, shine, flexibility and anti-frizz properties of the hair. hair.

[0009] The present invention and preferred embodiments are characterized by the following points:

[0010] 1. Hair treatment agent having two superimposed layers and one common interface, and containing an aqueous phase (I) and an oily phase (II), characterized in that the oily phase (II)

[0011] a) contains an ester consisting of at least one C6-C30 carboxylic acid and at least one C2-C20 alcohol and

[0012] b) at least one partial glyceride of C8-C22 carboxylic acid(s).

[0013] 2. Hair treatment agent according to point 1, the two esters a) and b) being based of natural raw materials.

[0014] 3. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing an ester a) based on olive oil and a C4-C10 alcohol, possibly branched.

[0015] 4. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing an ester a) obtainable under the INCI name Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate.

[0016] 5. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing a mixture of Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsapo-nifiables.

[0017] 6. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing the at minus one ester a) in a proportion by weight of 10 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase (II).

[0018] 7. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing Glyceryl caprylate, Glyceryl capryte, Glyceryl laurate, Glyceryl myristate, Glyceryl stearate, Glyceryl isostearate, Glyceryl cocoate, Glyceryl linoleate, Glyceryl oleate, Glyceryl behenate, Glyceryl erucate, Glyceryl rininoleate or mixtures thereof.

[0019] 8. Hair treatment agent according to point 7, containing glyceryl cocoate.

[0020] 9 Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing the at less one partial glyceride b) in a proportion by weight of 1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase (II).

[0021] 10. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, additionally containing, in the oily phase (II), at least one carbonic acid ester in a proportion by weight of 10 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase (II).

[0022] 11. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing Symmetrical carbonic acid diesters of carbonic acid and at least one C3 to C24 alcohol> preferably at least one ester known under the INCI name Dicaprylyl Carbonate.

[0023] 12. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, additionally containing, in the oily phase (II), at least one vegetable oil in a proportion by weight from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase (II).

[0024] 13. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing

[0025] - the aqueous phase (I) in a proportion by weight > 80% by weight and

[0026] - the oily phase (II) in a proportion by weight < 20% by weight

[0027] relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0028] 14. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing in the aqueous phase (I) 50 to 100% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).

[0029] 15. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing in the aqueous phase (I) up to 30% by weight of at least one polyol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).

[0030] 16. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing in the aqueous phase (I) up to 30% by weight of glycerol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase (I).

[0031] 17. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing - by relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase (I) - up to 10% by weight of at least one betaine ester of the following general formula

[0032] [Chem.l] [R 1 (OCH2CH(Ofô)CH2)x<>C^

[0033] in which

[0034] - R1 represents -H or caprylate, caprate, laurate, myristate, palmitate, stearate, isostearate, oleate, ricinoleate, arachidate, behenate,

[0035] - R2 represents -H,

[0036] - x represents a number from 1.1 to 10, preferably from 1.1 to 6, in a partic most preferred from 2 to 4 and especially 3,

[0037] - A represents a physiologically acceptable anion such as formate, acetate, propionate, benzoate, citrate, oxalate, tartrate, (poly)acrylate, fumarate, maleate, lactate, itaconate, glycolate, gluconate, malate, mandelate, tiglate, succinate, ascorbate.

[0038] 18. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, containing - by relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase (I) - at least one betaine ester known as INCI Polyglyceryl-3 betainate acetate.

[0039] 19. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding points, which is free from

[0040] - silicones

[0041] - mineral oils

[0042] - ethoxylated compounds.

[0043] 20. Cosmetic process for conditioning hair, in which a conditioning agent hair treatment according to one of points 1 to 18 is stirred until homogeneous, is applied directly after on wet or dry hair (preferably by spraying) and is left on the hair until the next hair wash.

[0044] 21. Cosmetic use of a hair treatment agent according to one of points 1 at 18 to improve hair care, especially to improve

[0045] - the shine

[0046] - flexibility

[0047] - detangling

[0048] - ease of combing

[0049] - anti-frizz properties.

[0050] The hair treatment agents according to the invention comprise two visually distinct phases, which can be homogenized by stirring, and which separate again, at rest, into two continuous, distinct, visually recognizable phases with a common horizontal phase boundary.

[0051] Ideally, the emulsion produced by stirring is stable for up to five, preferably up to three, particularly preferably up to two and especially up to one hour, before it separates back into the two initial phases with a horizontal phase boundary.

[0052] For rapid mixing and demixing of the two phases, it may be advantageous for the aqueous phase (I) and the oily phase (II) to have low viscosity values. "Low viscosity values" are preferably understood, in the context of the present invention, to mean viscosity values ​​of the aqueous phase (I) and the oily phase (II) in each case up to a maximum of 1000 mPas, more preferably 600 mPas and in particular 400 mPas (measured at 20°C with a Brookfield DV-II viscosimeter, spindle 2 at 20 rpm).

[0053] For better visibility of the mixing and demixing of the two phases, it may be advantageous for at least one of the phases (I) or (II) to be transparent.

[0054] Under these conditions, it is preferably recognized that the two phases are sufficiently mixed in that there is only one visible phase, which may be opaque to milky cloudy.

[0055] In a particularly preferred manner, at least one of the two phases (I) and (II) is transparent.

[0056] In the context of the present invention, "transparency" means that the aqueous phase (I) and / or the oily phase (II) preferably have an NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Unit) value at rest of maximum 100, preferably maximum 75, more preferably maximum 50 and in particular maximum 25 (for example, measured with a turbidimeter of the Turbiquant® type from the company Merck).

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase (I) is transparent to the- slightly cloudy and the oil phase (II) is milky and creamy.

[0058] In addition, one of the two phases (I) or (II), preferably the aqueous phase (I), can be colored with a cosmetically acceptable colorant for better visualization.

[0059] It is further desirable and preferred that the hair treatment agents according to the invention can be sprayed.

[0060] The hair treatment agents according to the invention are suitable for application in sprayable form from a pump dispenser. The advantage of this form of application is the simple, clean and quick handling, since the hair treatment agents can be dispensed in the form of a fine spray mist from a suitable pump dispenser by simple actuation of a pump valve and can reach all hair areas.

[0061] In this way, the hands do not come into contact with the agent and do not need to be cleaned after using the agent.

[0062] For this form of application, the hair treatment agents according to the invention ready for use (i.e. homogenized by stirring) preferably have a viscosity of maximum 1000 mPas, preferably maximum 800 mPas, more preferably maximum 600 mPas and in particular maximum 500 mPas (measured in each case at 20 °C with a Brookfield DV-II viscometer, spindle 2 at 20 rpm).

[0063] It is also preferable for this form of application that the hair conditioning agents are free from propellants.

[0064] In a preferred embodiment, both esters a) and b) are based on natural raw materials.

[0065] The ester a) is preferably an ester based on natural raw materials, in which the fatty acids have 12 to 22 carbon atoms and the alcohol has 4 to 12 carbon atoms. It is particularly preferably an olive oil ester. The essential fatty acids of olive oil are oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid.

[0066] The alcohol is preferably a linear or branched, preferably branched, alkyl alcohol having 4 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0067] Particularly preferred are esters a) derived from olive oil and branched C 4-C 10 alcohols. These esters are known and commercially available, for example under the INCI name Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate.

[0068] The at least one ester a) may be used in the oily phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in a proportion by weight of 10 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0069] It is also possible, within the meaning of the present invention, for the ester a) to further comprise other constituents of olive oil. A particularly preferred mixture contains Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (the INCI name is indicated in each case).

[0070] These products are commercially available, for example, from Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG under the name BergaCare® FG Olive or from Alexmo Cosmetics under the name Natura Plantasil®.

[0071] In the case where one of the above-mentioned commercial products (or an alternative commercial product containing Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) is used as ester a) in the oily phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention, the proportion by weight is preferably 10 to 70% by weight, more preferably 15 to 60% by weight and in particular 20 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the oily phase.

[0072] Ester b) is preferably an ester based on natural raw materials, which is formed from mono and / or diesters of glycerol of C8-C22 carboxylic acids.

[0073] Preferred are partial esters of glycerol which are known under the INCI names Glyceryl caprylate, Glyceryl caprate, Glyceryl laurate, Glyceryl myristate, Glyceryl stearate, Glyceryl isostearate, Glyceryl cocoate, Glyceryl linoleate, Glyceryl oleate, Glyceryl behenate, Glyceryl erucate, Glyceryl rininoleate, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0074] Particularly preferred are the partial glycerol esters b), which do not increase the viscosity of the emulsion produced by stirring the hair treatment agents according to the invention too much, so that the hair treatment agents quickly separate into two phases again upon standing.

[0075] Glyceryl laurate, Glyceryl myristate and Glyceryl Cocoate or mixtures thereof are particularly suitable. Glyceryl Cocoate is particularly preferred.

[0076] The at least one ester b) may be used in the oily phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in a weight proportion of 1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase. Particularly preferred are weight proportions of 2.5 to 40% by weight and in particular of 5 to 30% by weight.

[0077] The caring effect of the oil phase can be improved by adding additional emollients. The hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably comprise additional emollients with a high diffusion power, which do not leave a greasy or sticky film on the scalp and / or hair and which do not weigh down the hair - especially with frequent use. Carbonic acid esters meet these requirements. Furthermore, they can generally be obtained from natural sources so that with the products according to the invention hair care agents suitable for the so-called Clean Beauty market are made available.

[0078] Particularly suitable are the symmetrical carbonic acid diesters of carbonic acid and at least one C3-C24 alcohol, more preferably a C4_C20 alcohol, particularly preferably a C5-C16 alcohol and most particularly caprylic, capric and / or lauryl alcohol.

[0079] Carbonic acid esters known under the INCI name Dicaprylyl Carbonate are particularly preferred emollients. These products are commercially available, for example, under the name Cetiol® CC from BASF.

[0080] The additional emollients, in particular the carbonic acid ester, can be used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 10 to 70% by weight, more preferably of 20 to 65% by weight and in particular of 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase (II).

[0081] Dicaprylyl Carbonate is particularly preferably used in the above-mentioned amounts.

[0082] To further optimize the care properties of the hair treatment agents according to the invention, it may be advantageous for them to contain other active ingredients, as long as these do not adversely affect either the stability or the care effect of the two-phase products.

[0083] The additional care active ingredients may be contained in the aqueous phase (I) or in the oily phase (II). Ideally, however, the agents according to the invention comprise only care active ingredients which are well soluble in either the aqueous phase (I) or the oily phase (II) and / or which do not increase the viscosity of the phases (I) and / or (II) too much and, consequently, do not make their mixing and / or demixing more difficult.

[0084] Examples of suitable additional (care) active ingredients that can be added to the oil phase include

[0085] i) vegetable oils and / or

[0086] ii) the perfume and / or

[0087] iii) pyrrolidone carboxylic acid esters.

[0088] Suitable vegetable oils are understood in the context of the present invention to mean, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip kernel oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, redcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil and / or wild rose oil.

[0089] The above-mentioned vegetable oils, such as esters a) and b), have a very good distribution capacity on the scalp and hair, are well absorbed into the hair fibers and nourish them.

[0090] The vegetable oil(s) ii) may be used in the oily phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in a proportion by weight ranging respectively from 0.01 to 10% by weight (more preferably from 0.025 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight) relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0091] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the oily phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention comprises (relative to its total weight)

[0092] - 20 to 50% by weight of an ester a), preferably an ester derived from olive oil and branched C4-C10 alcohols,

[0093] - 5 to 30% of an ester b), preferably Glyceryl laurate, Glyceryl myristate and Glyceryl Cocoate or mixtures thereof,

[0094] - 30 to 60% by weight of an easily diffusing emollient, preferably of a carbonic acid diester and / or

[0095] - 0.5 to 5% by weight of a vegetable oil.

[0096] In this embodiment, it is particularly preferred to use Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate as ester a) or a mixture of Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Glyceryl Cocoate as ester b) and Dicaprylyl Carbonate as emollient.

[0097] Perfumes or perfume oils may be used in the oily phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0098] By suitable pyrrolidone carboxylic acid esters is preferably meant, within the meaning of the present invention, glycerol esters of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), such as for example C12-C22 esters, preferably C12-C18 fatty acids. A particularly preferred example is known and commercially available under the INCI name PCA Glyceryl Oleate.

[0099] Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid esters (in particular PCA Glyceryl Oleate) may be used in the oily phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0100] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention comprise

[0101] - the aqueous phase (I) in a proportion by weight > 80% by weight and

[0102] - the oily phase (II) in a proportion by weight < 20% by weight relative to the total weight of hair treatment agent.

[0103] The aqueous phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably comprises 50 to 100% by weight, more preferably at least 65 to 97.5% by weight and in particular at least 80 to 95% by weight of water (relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase).

[0104] To improve the care properties, it is possible to add additional ingredients to the aqueous phase. Examples of suitable additional (care) active ingredients that can be added to the aqueous phase include

[0105] i) cationic surfactants,

[0106] ii) cationic polymers,

[0107] iii) protein hydrolysates,

[0108] iv) polyols,

[0109] v) amino acids and / or their physiologically acceptable salts,

[0110] vi) trimethylglycine (betaine) and / or betaine esters.

[0111] By cationic surfactants i) suitable for use in the hair treatment agents according to the invention are preferably meant cationic surfactants with a high hair care potential, a low tendency to foam and the lowest possible emulsifying power. Cationic surfactants i) particularly suitable for use in the hair treatment agents according to the invention are

[0112] - linear or branched alkyl(C1-C24)trialkyl(C1-C4)ammonium salts, saturated or unsaturated, physiologically acceptable, di(C 1 -C 24 )dialkyl(C 1 -C 4 )ammonium salts or tri(C 1 -C 24 )alkyl(C 1 -C 4 )ammonium salts, for example halide and / or methosulfate salts, in particular chlorides, bromides and methosulfates, such as for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylbenzylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

[0113] Particularly preferred are cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts which contain a methosulfate and / or chloride ion as anion.

[0114] - esterquats which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are salts of quaternized esters of fatty acids with triethanolamine, salts of esters quaternized esters of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and salts of quaternized esters of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. These products are, for example, marketed under the brand names Stepantex®, Dehyquart® and Armocare®. Examples of this type of esterquats are the products Armocare® VGH-70, an N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80 and Dehyquart® AU-35.

[0115] - amidoamines, permanently cationic amidoamines and mixtures thereof.

[0116] Particularly suitable amidoamines may be chosen from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyldimethylamine, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmamidopropyldimethylamine or mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine or mixtures thereof.

[0117] Particularly suitable permanently cationic amidoamines may be selected from behenamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, behenamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, oleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, oleamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, cocamidopropylethyl-dimonium ethosulfate, cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamido-propylethyldimonium ethosulfate, rinoleamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, lauramidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, canolamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate or mixtures thereof.

[0118] The cationic surfactant(s) i) may be used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.05 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. Amounts of 0.1 to 9% by weight, and in particular of 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, are preferred.

[0119] By cationic polymers suitable for use in the hair treatment agents according to the invention are meant, for example, cationic polymers, which are known under the INCI name "Polyquaternium", such as Polyquatemium-6, Poly-quatemium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-16, Poly-quatemium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquatemium-28, Polyquaternium-37, Poly-quatemium-67, Polyquaternium-74 and / or Polyquaternium-89.

[0120] Cationic polymers derived from naturally occurring polymers such as cellulose, starch or guar polymers are particularly suitable.

[0121] Cationic cellulose derivatives are marketed for example by the company Amerchol under the name Polymer JR® and cationic guar polymers by the company Rhône-Poulenc or Hercules under the names Jaguar® or N-Hance®.

[0122] Other suitable cationic polymers of natural origin are, for example, cationic chitosans, which are commercially available, for example under the names "Kytamer" or "Hydagen".

[0123] Also suitable are cationic polymers known under the INCI name “Quatemium”, such as Quaternium-8, Quatemium-14, Quaternium-15, Quatemium-18, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30, Quatemium-33, Quaternium-53, Quatemium-60, Quaternium-61, Quatemium-72, Quaternium-78, Quatemium-80, Quaternium-81, Quatemium-82, Quaternium-83 and / or Quaternium-84.

[0124] Other suitable cationic polymers are for example:

[0125] - cationic alkylpolyglycosides, - cationized honey, for example the product commercial Honeyquat® 50,

[0126] - vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

[0127] - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

[0128] - as well as the polymers known under the designations polyquaternium-2, poly- quaternium-17, polyquaternium-18 and polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,

[0129] - vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, as they are commercially available with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as the third monomer element, for example under the designation Aquaflex® SF 40.

[0130] The cationic polymers may be used in the aqueous phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.05 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. Amounts of 0.1 to 9% by weight, and in particular of 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, are preferred.

[0131] By protein hydrolysates iii) suitable for use in the hair treatment agents according to the invention is meant protein hydrolysates of plant, animal, marine or synthetic origin.

[0132] Examples of preferred animal protein hydrolysates are elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also exist in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, sold under the trade names Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gélatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).

[0133] Preferred plant-derived protein hydrolysates are, for example, soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, available under the trade names Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda) and Crotein® (Croda).

[0134] Suitable protein hydrolysates of marine origin include, for example, fish or algae collagen hydrolysates, as well as mussel protein hydrolysates or pearl hydrolysates. Examples of pearl hydrolysates suitable according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.

[0135] Suitable cationized protein hydrolysates may also be of animal, plant or marine origin.

[0136] Quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids can be carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammonium halides. In addition, cationic protein hydrolysates can also be derivatized.

[0137] Typical examples of particularly suitable cationic protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives are the commercially available products known under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Coco-dimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein,Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laur-dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Stear- , dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hy-drolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

[0138] Particularly preferred for use in the hair treatment agents according to the invention are hydrolysates of keratin, silk, milk, wheat and / or soy proteins, which can be quaternized. Hydrolysates of keratin and / or wheat and / or silk proteins, which can be quaternized, are particularly preferred.

[0139] The protein hydrolysates - optionally quaternized - can be used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention either individually or as a mixture.

[0140] For certain embodiments of the invention, it may be advantageous for the hair treatment agents to contain at least one protein hydrolyzate of animal or plant origin and at least one quaternized protein hydrolyzate of animal or plant origin.

[0141] The protein hydrolysates and / or quaternized protein hydrolysates may be used in the aqueous phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably of 0.025 to 6% by weight and in particular in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight (relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase).

[0142] By suitable polyols iv), is preferably meant, within the meaning of the present invention, polyalcohols (or polyhydroxylated compounds) having 2 to 20 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples of suitable polyols according to the invention are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol (pentylene glycol), 1,3-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, sugar alcohols such as sorbitol mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol, xylitol, fructose, glucose, lactose, galactose or mixtures of these polyols.

[0143] Particularly preferred are glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the above-mentioned substances. Particularly preferred are 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, dipropylene glycol and / or diglycerol. Glycerol is particularly preferred.

[0144] The polyols may be contained in the aqueous phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention in a proportion by weight of up to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. The aqueous phase preferably comprises up to 25% by weight and in particular up to 20% by weight of polyols.

[0145] The aqueous phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention most particularly preferably comprises glycerol in the abovementioned amounts.

[0146] Suitable amino acids v) may be selected from glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, taurine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, [3-alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3',4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-Dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine ​​sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-omithine and / or physiologically acceptable salts of these amino acids, individual amino acids (or their salts) as well as mixtures may be used.

[0147] The amino acid(s) or their salt(s) v) may be used in the aqueous phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 7.5% by weight (more preferably 0.025 to 6% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 5% by weight) relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0148] Trimethylglycine (betaine) is an amino acid derivative well known for its use in cosmetic agents, and can be obtained from natural sources such as sugar beet molasses. It is commercially available, for example, from the company Evonik under the name Tego® Natural Betaine and is used as a humectant in skin treatment preparations and as a fixing active substance in hair treatment agents. It has been observed that the hair care properties of esters a) and b) can be further improved by adding trimethylglycine. By adding trimethylglycine, it is possible to improve the properties of dry hair in terms of ease of detangling and ease of combing, and to give the hair a soft feel right down to the ends. Trimethylglycine may preferably be contained in the aqueous phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.5 to 10% by weight (preferably 0.75 to 9% by weight and in particular 1 to 7.5% by weight) relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0149] By betaine esters vi) suitable for the purposes of the present invention are meant the compounds of the following general formula

[0150] [Chem.2] [R^OCHzC^ORaJCHa^CCOK^

[0151] in which

[0152] - R1 represents -H or caprylate, caprate, laurate, myristate, palmitate, stearate, isostearate, oleate, ricinoleate, arachidate, behenate,

[0153] - R2 represents -H,

[0154] - x represents a number from 1.1 to 10, preferably from 1.1 to 6, in a partic most preferred from 2 to 4 and especially 3,

[0155] - A represents a physiologically acceptable anion such as formate, acetate, propionate, benzoate, citrate, oxalate, tartrate, (poly)acrylate, fumarate, maleate, lactate, itaconate, glycolate, gluconate, malate, mandelate, tiglate, succinate, ascorbate.

[0156] Preferably, the radicals R1 and R2 in the above-mentioned formula represent -H, x, a number from 2 to 4 and A, acetate. Particularly preferred betaine esters vi) are the compounds known under the INCI name Polyglyceryl-3 betainate acetate, which are commercially available, for example from the company Socri under the name Greenquat® BT.

[0157] The betaine ester or esters vi) may preferably be contained in the aqueous phase of the hair treatment agents according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.05 to 10% by weight (preferably 0.1 to 9% by weight and in particular 0.2 to 7.5% by weight) relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0158] Examples of other suitable (care) active ingredients which can be added to the hair treatment agents according to the invention in a weight proportion of up to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agents may be mentioned.

[0159] I. vitamins,

[0160] IL the active ingredients for adjusting the pH,

[0161] III. preservatives.

[0162] Suitable vitamins, which are suitable for use in the hair treatment agents according to the invention, denote vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives belonging to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

[0163] The group of substances called vitamins A includes retinol (vitamin A) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A). [3-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Examples of vitamin A components that may be mentioned are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde as well as vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate. Hair treatment agents may contain the vitamin A component, preferably in amounts ranging from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

[0164] The vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes among others:

[0165] - vitamin Bi (thiamine)

[0166] - vitamin B2 (riboflavin)

[0167] - vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often presented under this name. Preferably, it is nicotinamide, which can be contained in hair treatment agents, preferably in amounts ranging from 0.005 to 1% by weight, relative to the total agent.

[0168] - vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone).

[0169] Within this group, panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used. Panthenol derivatives which can be used are in particular panthenol esters and ethers, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Examples of said derivatives include panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. Said vitamin B5 compounds may be present in hair treatment agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 2% by weight are particularly preferred.

[0170] - vitamin B6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

[0171] - vitamin B7 - see vitamin H.

[0172] - vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C can be used in agents for hair treatment, preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

[0173] - vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, may preferably be present in hair treatment agents in amounts ranging from 0.005 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

[0174] - vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" generally refers to fatty acids essential, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

[0175] - vitamin H. Vitamin H refers to the acidic compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which the common name biotin has since become established. Hair treatment agents may preferably contain biotin in amounts ranging from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

[0176] The hair treatment agents according to the invention may particularly preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and precursors of vitamins of groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and their derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred and may be added to the hair conditioning agents according to the invention either individually or in combination in the amounts mentioned above.

[0177] Suitable active ingredients for pH adjustment may preferably be selected from the acids acetic acid, citric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, formic acid, amidosulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acids, D-lactic acid, L-lactic acid, D / L-lactic acid, oxalic acid or from the group of alkalis, such as caustic soda in particular.

[0178] The hair treatment agents according to the invention advantageously contain pH adjusting active ingredients in amounts of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 2% by weight (relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agent).

[0179] It has been discovered that, for particularly good stability of the two phases (I) and (II) of the hair treatment agent according to the invention, it is advantageous that they contain, where appropriate, only specific surfactants and / or emulsifiers in specific quantities.

[0180] In this context, the term "stability" means that the two phases separate again quickly after mixing and form a sharp phase boundary in which, ideally, no turbidity occurs over a long period of time and with temperature fluctuations.

[0181] Surfactants and / or emulsifiers which excessively promote emulsification and / or suspension of the oil phase in the aqueous phase or vice versa are therefore not suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention.

[0182] Likewise, the formation of foam when stirring the hair treatment agent according to the invention just before application is undesirable, therefore surfactants / emulsifiers which tend to form a lot of foam are also excluded.

[0183] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain no more than 1% by weight, more preferably no more than 0.8% by weight, particularly preferably no more than 0.6% by weight weight and in particular not more than 0.5% by weight of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and / or non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers (relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agent).

[0184] In this embodiment, it is particularly preferred that the hair treatment agents according to the invention do not contain additional anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and / or non-ionic surfactants.

[0185] Particularly preferably, the hair treatment agents according to the invention do not contain alkoxylated (ethoxylated) emulsifiers.

[0186] Furthermore, it has been observed that the presence of various oily and fatty substances can make it more difficult to separate the two phases (I) and (II) after their homogenization.

[0187] Particularly advantageous are the hair treatment agents according to the invention which, in addition to the essential and optional ingredients already described, contain, in their oily phase, a maximum of 0.5% by weight, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.3% by weight and in particular a maximum of 0.1% by weight of other oily and / or fatty substances (relative to the oily phase (II)).

[0188] In addition to the constituents of the oily phase (II) described previously in this application, the hair treatment agents according to the invention ideally do not contain other oily and / or fatty substances, in particular no fatty alcohols.

[0189] In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention are substantially free of fatty alcohols.

[0190] By "substantially free" is meant that the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - relative to their total weight - at most 0.05% by weight, particularly preferably at most 0.01% by weight and in particular 0% by weight of fatty alcohols.

[0191] As already indicated previously in this application, it is not necessary for the care effect and stability of the hair treatment agents according to the invention to add other constituents (oily and greasy substances) to the oily phase.

[0192] In particular, it is possible to do without silicones as well as mineral oils or agents solubilizing silicone oils or mineral oils such as ethoxylated emulsifiers.

[0193] Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that it is free from

[0194] - silicones

[0195] - mineral oils

[0196] - ethoxylated compounds.

[0197] Furthermore, the hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain other active ingredients, adjuvants and additives, such as the following substances:

[0198] - structuring agents such as maleic acid,

[0199] - dyes for coloring the agent,

[0200] - anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, omadine zinc, climbazole, propanediol caprylate,

[0201] - complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, [3-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

[0202] - pigments,

[0203] - antioxidants and / or UV filters

[0204] - plant extracts.

[0205] In addition to their aesthetic appearance, the two-phase hair treatment agents according to the invention have the advantage of being easy to use and simple to produce. The specific combination of active ingredients in the hair treatment agents ensures rapid mixing of the two phases before application and rapid demixing of the two phases after application. The hydrophilic phase is predominantly water-based, which meets the needs of consumers. The hair treatment agents according to the invention are also particularly suitable for hair care.The presence of (cyclic) silicones and / or mineral oils and / or ethoxylated emulsifiers is not necessary for the stability or care properties of the hair treatment agents, since the hair treatment agents according to the invention have conditioning benefits on the hair they are to treat comparable to those of agents containing silicones and / or mineral oils. In particular, the shine, suppleness, detangling, combability and anti-frizz properties, especially of previously stressed and / or damaged hair, can be significantly improved. The hair treatment agents according to the invention are sprayable and suitable for application from a pump dispenser. This gives them great ease of use and effectiveness in their effect, since the fine spray mist from the pump dispenser reaches all areas of the hair.

[0206] A second subject of the invention is a method for conditioning hair, in which a hair treatment agent according to the invention is stirred until homogeneous, is applied directly afterwards to wet or dry hair (preferably by spraying) and is left on the hair until the next hair wash.

[0207] A third object of the invention is the use of the hair treatment agent according to the invention for improving hair care, in particular for improving shine, suppleness, ease of detangling, ease of combing and anti-frizz properties.

[0208] What has been said about the agents according to the invention applies to the method according to the invention and to the use according to the invention.

[0209] The following examples are intended to describe in more detail the objects of the invention without limiting it.

[0210] Examples:

[0211] The following compositions (I) to (III) according to the invention were prepared. The quantitative data relate to % by weight (in each case in the total composition):

[0212] [Tables 1] (I) (II) (III) BergaCare®1 FG Olive 1-3 1-3 2 Imwitor®2 928 0.1-2 0.1-2 0.6 Cetil®3 CC 1-5 1-5 3 Vegetable oil 0-1 0-1 0.1 Perfume 0-0.5 0-0.5 qs Glycerol 0-3 0.5-2 1 Greenquat®4 BT 0-3 0.5-2 1 Dehyquart®5 A CA 0-1 L-arginine 0-1 Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0-1 Panthenol 0-0.5 Water, pH-adjusting active ingredients (pH 4), preservatives, colorants Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100

[0213] 01 INCI Name: Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil

[0214] Unsaponifiables (Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG)

[0215] ®2 INCI Name: Glyceryl Cocoate (IOI Oleo)

[0216] ®3 INCI Name: Dicaprylyl Carbonate (BASF)

[0217] ®4 INCI name: Polyglyceryl-3 betainate acetate (Socri)

[0218] ®5 INCI Name: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride (approx. 25% SA) (BASF)

Claims

Claims

1. Hair treatment agent having two superimposed layers and a common interface, and containing an aqueous phase (I) and an oily phase (II), characterized in that the oily phase (II) a) contains an ester based on olive oil and an optionally branched C4-C10 alcohol and b) at least one partial glyceride of C8-C22 carboxylic acid(s)

2. Hair treatment agent according to claim 1, both esters a) and b) being based on natural raw materials.

3. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, containing an ester a) obtainable under the INCI name Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate.

4. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, containing the at least one ester a) in a proportion by weight of 10 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase (II).

5. A hair treatment agent according to any preceding claim, containing Glycageryl caprylate, Glyceryl caprylate, Glyceryl laurate, Glyceryl myristate, Glyceryl stearate, Glyceryl isostearate, Glyceryl cocoate, Glyceryl linoleate, Glyceryl oleate, Glyceryl behenate, Glyceryl erucate, Glyceryl rininoleate or mixtures thereof.

6. Hair treatment agent according to claim 5, containing an ester b) obtainable under the INCI name Glyceryl cocoate.

7. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, containing the at least one partial glyceride b) in a proportion by weight of 1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase (II).

8. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, additionally containing, in the oily phase (II), at least one carboxylic acid ester in a proportion by weight of 10 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase (II), preferably at least one ester known under the INCI name Dicaprylyl Carbonate.

9. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, additionally containing, in the oily phase (II), at least one vegetable oil in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase (II).

10. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims- preceding, containing - the aqueous phase (I) in a proportion by weight > 80% by weight and - the oily phase (II) in a proportion by weight < 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

11. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, containing - relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase (I) - up to 10% by weight of at least one betaine ester of the following general formula [Chem. 3] (R^OCHîCHtORs^Hz^ in which - R1 represents -H or caprylate, caprate, laurate, myristate, palmitate, stearate, isostearate, oleate, ricinoleate, arachidate, behenate, - R2 represents -H, - x represents a number from 1.1 to 10, preferably from 1.1 to 6, particularly preferably from 2 to 4 and in particular 3, - A represents a physiologically acceptable anion such as formate, acetate, propionate, benzoate, citrate, oxalate, tartrate, (poly)acrylate, fumarate, maleate, lactate, itaconate, glycolate, gluconate, malate, mandelate, tiglate, succinate, ascorbate.

12. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, which is free from - silicones - mineral oils - ethoxylated compounds.

13. A cosmetic method for conditioning hair, wherein a hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 7 is stirred until homogeneous, is applied directly thereafter to wet or dry hair (preferably by spraying) and is left on the hair until the next hair wash.

14. Cosmetic use of a hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 7 for improving hair care, in particular for improving - shine - suppleness - detangling - ease of combing - anti-frizz properties.