Skin and / or lip smoothing compound
The cosmetic composition utilizing polyglycerols with varying molecular weights, along with a polyol and a pro-penetrating agent, addresses the limitations of current anti-wrinkle products by providing an immediate and lasting smoothing effect, effectively reducing wrinkles and enhancing skin comfort.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021013303
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-10
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-04
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-10
AI Technical Summary
Current anti-wrinkle cosmetics using contractile filmic polymers face limitations in durability and comfort, failing to provide a lasting and effective smoothing effect.
A cosmetic composition combining polyglycerols with distinct molecular weights, along with a polyol and a pro-penetrating agent, penetrates the skin's superficial layers to provide immediate and lasting smoothing and volume restoration.
The composition achieves a significant and prolonged smoothing effect, reducing wrinkle number, surface area, and length, while ensuring comfort and durability.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Skin and / or lip smoothing composition. FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to skin and / or lip smoothing compositions. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Communication about anti-wrinkle effects with immediate and lasting skin smoothing (at least for the day) is a key asset and a strong driver of innovation and satisfaction for consumers.
[0003] Currently, the immediate anti-wrinkle smoothing effect is primarily achieved through the incorporation of contractile film-forming polymers, known for their tightening effect. However, the effectiveness of these polymers is limited, either by their durability (the polymer film cracks) and lack of comfort, or by a weak smoothing effect (the comfort / tightening effect paradox is not achieved). Furthermore, to date, the smoothing effect provided by tightening polymers is insufficient compared to women's current expectations and is not long-lasting at a sensorially acceptable dose.
[0004] The need therefore remains to develop alternatives to tightening polymers for an immediate and lasting smoothing result. The Applicant has demonstrated that the use of at least two cosmetic ingredients comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, said cosmetic ingredients having distinct average molecular weights of at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, advantageously in combination with a polyol and possibly also a pro-penetrating agent, makes it possible to meet this need. The polyglycerols and any other hydrophilic ingredients or active ingredients in the composition penetrate the first layers of the skin to provide volume and substance, effectively and lastingly filling wrinkles "from within." Description of the invention
[0005] A first object of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for skincare and / or makeup for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and:
[0006] a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g / mol,
[0007] a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol,
[0008] and possibly also a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first
[0009] and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000g / mol,
[0010] it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is greater by at least 100g / mol, or even by at least 200g / mol, compared to the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.
[0011] Another object relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin and / or lips of a composition as defined according to the invention, in particular to smooth the skin, and / or restore the volumes of the face and / or lips, provide firmness and / or elasticity, and / or reduce and / or fill wrinkles. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0012] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition for skincare and / or makeup for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and:
[0013] a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g / mol,
[0014] a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol,
[0015] and possibly also a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000g / mol,
[0016] it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is greater by at least 100g / mol, or even by at least 200g / mol, compared to the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.
[0017] The term "cosmetic composition" means any composition intended for cosmetic, i.e., aesthetic, purposes that may be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body and, more particularly, with keratinous materials, especially human skin and / or lips. Skin is understood to mean the skin of the face and / or neck and the skin of the body.
[0018] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response. Association of polyglycerols
[0019] Polyglycerols comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units constituting the polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredients usable according to the invention are in particular the following compounds:
[0020] POLYGLYCEROL-3 (240.25 g / mol) - CAS 56090-54-1,
[0021] POLYGLYCEROL -4 (314.33 g / mol) - CAS 56491-53-3,
[0022] POLYGLYCEROL -5 (380g / mol),
[0023] POLYGLYCEROL -6 (462.5 g / mol) - CAS 36675-34-0, and
[0024] POLYGLYCEROL -10 (758.8 g / mol) - CAS 9041-07-0.
[0025] The composition of the invention comprises at least two cosmetic ingredients each comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units and optionally an aqueous solvent, in particular water.
[0026] According to a particular method, each cosmetic ingredient based on polyglycerols is made up essentially or even exclusively of one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units.
[0027] By "consisting essentially or exclusively of", it is meant that the cosmetic ingredient based on polyglycerols comprises at least 95%, or better 98%, or even better 99%, or even comprises 100% by weight of polyglycerols.
[0028] According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic ingredient consists of one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units and a hydrophilic solvent, preferably water. The polyglycerol content in such a cosmetic ingredient comprising a hydrophilic solvent (e.g., water) will generally range from 70 to 90%, preferably from 80 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient. The INCI name of such an ingredient will be: Polyglycerin-x and aqua (water), with x ranging from 3 to 10.
[0029] In the case where the polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredients used according to the invention are mixtures of polyglycerols of different molecular weights, the 'average molecular weight' of said cosmetic ingredient means the average of the molecular weights of said polyglycerols taking into account their respective proportions in said ingredient, the value of this average molecular weight determining the corresponding INCI name, as explained below.
[0030] For example, the cosmetic ingredient marketed by Sakamoto under the name PGL-S comprises polyglycerol-3 (major component), polyglycerol-4 and polyglycerol-5, and the average molecular weight of the constituent polyglycerols of this cosmetic ingredient is close to the molecular weight of polyglycerol-3. For this reason, the INCI name of this cosmetic ingredient, consisting of a mixture of polyglycerols (polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-4 and polyglycerol-5), is POLYGLYCERIN-3.
[0031] The expression "cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising POLYGLYCERIN-x with x ranging from 3 to 10" therefore covers, according to the invention, a) a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-x (solvent-free) and b) a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-x and aqua (water) (with solvent), in the case where the polyglycerol(s) are solubilized in a hydrophilic solvent, preferably water.
[0032] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least two cosmetic ingredients consisting of one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units and optionally a hydrophilic solvent, of distinct INCI names, chosen from the group consisting of INCI names including polyglycerin-3, polyglycerin-4, polyglycerin-6, polyglycerin-10, polyglycerin-6 and water, or polyglycerin-10 and water.
[0033] Advantageously, according to the invention, at least two cosmetic ingredients consisting of one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units will be used, said ingredients having distinct average molecular weights of at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol. The combined use of two cosmetic ingredients consisting essentially of one or more polyglycerols and having distinct average molecular weights of at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, allows for prolonged penetration into the superficial layers of the skin, for an immediate and long-lasting effect.
[0034] According to a preferred mode, the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is greater by at least 100g / mol, or even by at least 200g / mol, compared to the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.
[0035] Thus, the cosmetic composition for skincare and / or makeup for the skin and / or lips comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and:
[0036] a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g / mol, preferably from 200 to 500g / mol,
[0037] a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol, preferably from 400 to 800g / mol,
[0038] and possibly also a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000g / mol,
[0039] it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is greater by at least 100g / mol, or even by at least 200g / mol, compared to the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.
[0040] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase and: a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10,
[0041] a second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10, distinct from the INCI name of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient,
[0042] and possibly also a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and second ingredients, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10.
[0043] For example, the composition of the invention comprises at least one first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and one or more other cosmetic ingredients with INCI names comprising polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 and water, or polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 and water.
[0044] According to another example, the composition of the invention comprises at least one first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 and water and one or more other cosmetic ingredients with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 and water.
[0045] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase and:
[0046] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name including polyglycerin-6, or
[0047] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name including polyglycerin-10, or
[0048] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name including polyglycerin-10, or
[0049] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3, a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a third cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10.
[0050] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name polyglycerin-3 and a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 and water.
[0051] According to another particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 (and) water and a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 (and) water.
[0052] According to another particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-3 and a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 (and) water.
[0053] According to another particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-3, a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 (and) water and a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 (and) water.
[0054] Other combinations comprising at least two cosmetic ingredients with INCI names can be made within the scope of the invention as illustrated in the following Table 1 which describes combinations two by two (INCI name of each of the two cosmetic ingredients, symbolized by PG3 for Polyglycerin-3, PG4 for Polyglycerin-4, PG6 for Polyglycerin-6, PG10 for Polyglycerin-10):
[0055] [Tables] Ingredient #2 (INCI name) PG3 PG4 PG6 PG10 Ingredient #1 (INCI name) PG3 - + ++ ++ PG4 + - + ++ PG6 ++ + - ++ PG10 ++ ++ ++ -
[0056] - : non-privileged association within the scope of the invention because the difference between the The average molecular weight of polyglycerols between the two cosmetic ingredients is less than 100g / mol.
[0057] + : association according to the invention
[0058] ++ : preferred association according to the invention
[0059] Other triple combinations within the scope of the invention are easily deducible from the double combinations described in Table 1 above, with the addition of a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and second ingredients, and comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3 (PG3), polyglycerin-4 (PG4), polyglycerin-6 (PG6) or polyglycerin-10 (PG10).
[0060] As examples of polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredients that can be used according to the invention, we can mention in particular the products marketed by the company SAKAMOTO PGL-S, with the INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-3 POLYGLYCERIN 310 (INCI name: POLYGLYCERIN-4) POLYGLYCERIN-500 MB INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-6 and AQUA (WATER) POLYGLYCERIN-750 MB INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-10 and AQUA (WATER)
[0061] References marketed by the company SPIGA can also be cited: Pure Végétal, INCI name Polyglycerin-3 Pure Végétal, INCI name Polyglycerin-4 Pure Végétal, INCI name Polyglycerin-6 Pure Végétal, INCI name Polyglycerin-10
[0062] The total content of polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Beneficial additional ingredients
[0063] The composition of the invention may further advantageously include additional agents distinct from the polyglycerols described above and chosen from the group consisting of moisturizing agents, pro-penetrating agents, smoothing or exfoliating agents, film-forming or tensing agents, antioxidant agents, gelling and / or structuring agents, fillers, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
[0064] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise one or more polyol(s) distinct from the polyglycerols described above, as a moisturizing agent, a pro-penetrating agent, and possibly in addition a smoothing agent or a film-forming agent, and mixtures thereof.
[0065] Polyols distinct from the polyglycerols described above
[0066] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one moisturizing agent, in particular at least one polyol distinct from the polyglycerols described above.
[0067] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0068] According to a particular form, the polyol can be selected from sugars such as trehalose, mannitol, xylitol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
[0069] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise trehalose, sorbitol or a mixture thereof.
[0070] A polyol suitable for the invention may be an alkyl-type compound, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
[0071] Polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are C2-C8 glycols.
[0072] Advantageously, the C2-C8 glycol can be chosen for example from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (or glycerin), diglycerol (or diglycerin), and mixtures thereof.
[0073] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises glycerol, diglycerol or a mixture thereof.
[0074] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least glycerol, diglycerol or a mixture thereof and optionally further trehalose, sorbitol or a mixture thereof.
[0075] Thus, according to a preferred mode, the composition of the invention will further comprise at least one moisturizing agent, preferably at least one polyol distinct from the polyglycerols described above and selected from the group consisting of sugars such as trehalose, mannitol, xylitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof and C2-C8 glycols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof.
[0076] The total content of polyols, distinct from the polyglycerols described above, in the composition of the invention will generally range from 2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0077] The total content of glycerol and diglycerol in the composition of the invention will generally range from 2 to 12% by weight, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0078] Agents that promote penetration into the skin (so-called 'pro-penetrating' agents)
[0079] According to another particular and advantageous mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a pro-penetrating agent.
[0080] By 'pro-penetrating' agent according to the invention, we mean a cosmetic agent enabling the improvement and / or promotion of the penetration of targeted cosmetic raw materials into the different layers of the skin.
[0081] Thus the composition of the invention will advantageously include further a pro-penetrating agent to improve and / or promote the penetration of cosmetic ingredients and in particular of polyglycerols and possible polyols of the composition, into the skin.
[0082] According to a particular method, this pro-penetrating agent is chosen from the group consisting of: - Hydrophilic molecules chosen from urea and its derivatives, glycine, trimethylglycine (betaine); these small hydrophilic molecules penetrate the different layers of the skin, and thus promote the penetration of hydrophilic ingredients or active ingredients present in the composition (polyglycerols, polyols...); - Fatty solubilizers chosen for example from dimethylisosorbide and ethanol; these agents solubilize the fats of the intercellular cement and therefore promote the penetration of hydrophilic ingredients or active ingredients present in the composition (polyglycerols, polyols...); - Surfactants, preferably non-ionic: • Glycerol-based surfactants such as mono- or polyglycerol esters of C6-C24 fatty acids, like PGlO-myristate and glyceryl stearate, and • C6-C24 fatty alcohols alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated such as the surfactants with INCI names Steareth-2 and Steareth-20;
[0083] and mixtures thereof.
[0084] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention shall comprise a propenetrating agent selected from the group consisting of (i) hydrophilic molecules such as urea and betaine, (ii) non-ionic surfactants selected from esters of mono- or poly-glycerols and C6-C24 fatty acids and alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C6-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.
[0085] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a pro-penetrating agent selected from urea, trimethylglycine (betaine), PG10-myristate and glyceryl stearate, or Steareth-2 and Steareth-20, and mixtures thereof.
[0086] A person skilled in the art will adapt the content of pro-penetrating ingredients according to their nature and according to the nature and content of the hydrophilic ingredients and active ingredients to be penetrated into the layers of the skin.
[0087] The total content of pro-penetrating agent(s) in the composition of the invention will generally range from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0088] The total content of hydrophilic molecules may range from 1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089] The total content of fat solubilizing agents may range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] The total surfactant content may range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] Smoothing or exfoliating agents
[0092] According to a particular mode, the skin composition further advantageously comprises a skin smoothing agent, in particular one or more hyaluronic acids or one of their salts, and their mixture; in particular their sodium, potassium or magnesium salts, preferably their sodium salts.
[0093] Said hyaluronic acids may be in the form of a gel or in the form of a powder. The hyaluronic acid(s) (or their salts) used according to the invention may be cross-linked or not, and / or acetylated or not.
[0094] Acetylated hyaluronic acids (or their salts)
[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one sodium salt of hyaluronic acid selected from a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid acetylated, a sodium salt of non-acetylated or non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid, a crosslinked sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0096] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises a sodium salt of acetylated hyaluronic acid.
[0097] Preferably, the acetylated hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is that described in patent application WO2018 / 162672.
[0098] In particular, said acetylated hyaluronic acid, or its sodium salt, has an average degree of acetylation greater than 3.6, determined by quantitative 2D nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR).
[0099] According to a particular feature, the acetylated hyaluronic acid or its sodium salt used in the present invention has an average molecular weight of about 50 kDa or less, more particularly about 30 kDa or less, and a dispersion index of less than 2n3, more particularly less than 2.0, more particularly less than 1.5.
[0100] In a preferred embodiment, the acetylated hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is a sodium salt of acetylated hyaluronic acid, in particular the product marketed under the name "Primalhyal™ Ultrafiller" by Givaudan. The product "Primalhyal™ Ultrafiller" is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI: SODIUM ACETYLATED HYALURONATE.
[0101] In particular, acetylated hyaluronic acid or its sodium salt, preferably the product marketed under the name "Primalhyal™ Ultrafiller", is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10%, in particular from 0.05% to 5%, and especially from 0.1% to 1% by weight of raw material (product weight) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] Hyaluronic acids (or their salts) not acetylated or cross-linked
[0103] According to another particular mode, the composition comprises a sodium salt of non-acetylated and non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid.
[0104] One can cite in particular the product with the INCI name SODIUM HYALURONATE marketed under the name HYALURONATE SODIUM HPM.
[0105] According to a particular mode, the non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight less than or equal to 500 kDa, preferably less than or equal to 300 kDa, or one of its salts
[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the low molecular weight, non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is the product marketed under the name "Bashyal powder" by the company Soliance. The "Bashyal powder" product is 100% pure hyaluronic acid in powder form, i.e., composed of 100% active material. The hyaluronic acid polymers used in The components of this product have a molar mass ranging from 100 kDa to 300 kDa. "Bashyal powder" is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI: SODIUM HYALURONATE.
[0107] According to another particular embodiment, the low molecular weight, non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is the product marketed under the name "Oligo HA" by the company Sochibo. The "Oligo HA" product is a 100% pure hyaluronic acid in powder form, i.e., composed of 100% active material. The hyaluronic acid polymers used in the composition of this product have a molar mass ranging from 5 kDa to 10 kDa. "Oligo HA" is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI: HYALURONIC ACID.
[0108] According to the present invention, when referring to the molecular weight or molecular mass of hyaluronic acid, it should be understood that this refers to the "average" molecular mass (or average molecular weight) of the hyaluronic acid molecules constituting the raw material used. Indeed, the raw materials used as sources of hyaluronic acid include hyaluronic acid polymers whose molar mass can vary slightly. These variations in molecular mass are notably related to the fact that the number of basic units (i.e., disaccharide monomers) included in the hyaluronic acid molecule at the time of its polymerization varies slightly. Thus, when referring to the "molar mass of hyaluronic acid" or the "average molar mass of hyaluronic acid," it should be understood that the molar mass is "approximately" the mass indicated.In particular, the stated molar mass of hyaluronic acid may vary by -20%, preferably ±15%, and even more preferably ±10%.
[0109] Crosslinked hyaluronic acids (or their salts)
[0110] According to a particular embodiment, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is in the form of a gel. According to this particular embodiment, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is preferably the product marketed under the name "Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 100" by Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd. "Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 100" is a hyaluronic acid gel comprising 1% to 5% by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the product. The hyaluronic acid polymers used in the composition of this product have a molar mass ranging from 1000 kDa to 1800 kDa. The product “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 100” is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetics Ingredients): SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA.
[0111] According to another particular embodiment, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is in powder form. According to this particular embodiment, the high molecular weight crosslinked hyaluronic acid used in the present invention is preferably the product with the trade name "Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 200" produced by Bloomage Freda Biopharm Co., Ltd. "Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 200" is a 100% pure hyaluronic acid in powder form, i.e., composed of 100% active material. The hyaluronic acid polymers used in the composition of this product have a molar mass greater than or equal to 3000 kDa. The product “Phylcare® Hyacross™ TL 200” is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI: SODIUM HYALURONATE CROSSPOLYMER, Pentylene Glycol, Aqua.
[0112] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a sodium salt of acetylated hyaluronic acid and a sodium salt of non-acetylated or non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid.
[0113] According to another particular mode, the composition comprises a cross-linked hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight greater than or equal to 1000 KDa, preferably greater than or equal to 2000 KDa or even greater than or equal to 3000 KDa or one of its salts, and a non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight less than or equal to 500 KDa, preferably less than or equal to 200 KDa or one of its salts, and a mixture thereof.
[0114] The total content of hyaluronic acid(s) or one of their salts may range from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, preferably still from 0.01% to 1% by weight of raw material (product weight) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0115] As another smoothing or exfoliating agent, the composition may also include alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs).
[0116] Film-forming agents or tensors (Film-forming polymers)
[0117] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises a film-forming agent or a skin surface tightening agent, in particular a film-forming polymer.
[0118] By “stressing agent”, we mean an agent capable of smoothing the skin surface to reduce skin wrinkles, by a mechanical effect linked to the elastic properties of the film formed on the surface of the skin.
[0119] The term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support, from a solution, dispersion or suspension of that film-forming polymer, applied to said support.
[0120] Evaporation of the solvent in which it is dispersed allows this film-forming polymer to form a film on the surface of the skin and / or lips and thus prolong the effect brought about by the composition on the restoration of facial and / or lip volumes, and / or attenuation and / or filling of wrinkles.
[0121] The film formed on the skin can also act as a reservoir of molecules dispersed in said film, which will gradually penetrate the superficial layers of the skin and produce the desired cosmetic effect, for example a moisturizing effect
[0122] These film-forming polymers can be natural or synthetic, liposoluble or water-soluble.
[0123] Preferably, water-soluble polymers will be used, and advantageously of natural origin.
[0124] Examples of synthetic water-soluble polymers include vinyl polymers (e.g., polyvinyl alcohol), vinylpyrrolidone polymers and copolymers, polyacrylates, polyurethanes, latex, and mixtures thereof.
[0125] Examples of water-soluble polymers of natural origin include celluloses and their derivatives, polysaccharides selected in particular from pullulans, pectins, carrageenans, galactomannans, xanthan gums, alginates, starches, and mixtures thereof. Polysaccharides may also be in the form of an extract of algae, in particular an extract of algae from the Laminariacea family.
[0126] In a particular manner, a naturally occurring polysaccharide having a molecular weight of less than 600,000 Daltons, preferably less than 400,000 Daltons and preferably even less than 200,000 Daltons, in particular in the form of an extract of Laminaria flexicaulis as described in Applicant's application FR 2 828 810.
[0127] According to another particular method, a starch, possibly modified, may be used. The starch is preferably a native starch, chosen in particular from maize starches, pea starches, tapioca starches, potato starches, rice starches, cassava starches and wheat starches. Preferably, a tapioca starch will be used.
[0128] Starches are described in particular in the Applicant’s application FR 2 990 348.
[0129] According to a particular mode, the composition comprises a film-forming polymer selected from the group consisting of synthetic or naturally occurring polymers, in particular vinyl polymers, polyacrylates, polyurethanes, celluloses and their derivatives, polysaccharides and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
[0130] The total content of film-forming polymer(s), when present in the composition of the invention, will generally range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention may comprise, in addition to the two polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredients: - a polyol, preferably a C2-C8 glycol, preferably a glycerol and possibly also a diglycerol; - a pro-penetrating agent, preferably selected from urea, trimethylglycine (betaine), non-ionic surfactants of the type esters of mono- or poly-glycerols and C6-C24 fatty acids, such as PG 10-myristate and glyceryl stearate, or alkoxylated C6-C24 fatty alcohols, preferably ethoxylated, and mixtures thereof; - a film-forming polymer, preferably selected from a vinyl polymer, a polyacrylate, a polyurethane, a polysaccharide and mixtures thereof; - a smoothing agent, preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, or AHAs;
[0132] and their mixtures.
[0133] Fatty body
[0134] The composition of the invention may also include an oily phase comprising oils and optionally fats, such as waxes, paste compounds and mixtures thereof.
[0135] Examples include waxes of vegetable origin, butters and fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives.
[0136] Charges
[0137] The composition may further include a charge.
[0138] The term "fillers" refers to platelet-shaped, spherical, or oblong particles, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, which are insoluble and dispersed within the composition. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to provide a mattifying effect. A "blurring effect" filler refers to an effect that camouflages the skin's microrelief and thus, through optical correction, reduces imperfections in texture and / or color, such as wrinkles, fine lines, pores, and blemishes.
[0139] Examples include silica, cellulose, boron nitride, lauroyl lysine fillers and mixtures thereof. Galenic
[0140] The cosmetic composition of the invention is a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular for the skin and / or lips, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, and / or lips.
[0141] According to a particular method, the skin and / or lip care and / or makeup composition is in the form of a lotion, a gel, a cream, for example a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion of a serum, preferably in the form of a gelled aqueous phase.
[0142] The composition may have, in particular, a liquid, fluid or thick consistency.
[0143] According to a particular method, the composition is a skin care composition and / or lips.
[0144] According to a particular method, the composition is a skin and / or lip makeup composition.
[0145] This may include a skincare product, in particular an anti-aging facial skincare product or a makeup composition for the skin such as a smoothing foundation for the face. In another embodiment, it may include a lip care product, in particular a smoothing and / or plumping lip treatment or a lip makeup composition such as a smoothing and / or plumping lipstick. cosmetic process
[0146] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin and / or lips of a composition according to the invention, in particular to smooth the skin, restore facial and / or lip volumes, and / or reduce and / or fill wrinkles.
[0147] The composition of the invention is applied to healthy skin and / or lips, that is, skin and / or lips free from any disorders or abnormalities indicative of a pathological condition (subjects who are "unhealthy" or suffering from a pathology). The terms "healthy skin and / or lips" and "skin and / or lips" will be used interchangeably throughout the rest of this description.
[0148] The composition also promotes the hydration of the skin and / or lips.
[0149] According to a particular method, the compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects exhibiting a loss of volume in the face.
[0150] According to another particular method, the compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects exhibiting signs related to skin aging, in particular wrinkles.
[0151] According to another particular method, the compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects with dry skin.
[0152] According to a particular method, the compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects exhibiting a loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.
[0153] According to a particular method, the compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects having dry lips and / or thin lips and / or lips with striations.
[0154] The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES
[0155] In the following examples, the following INCI-named ingredients were used: - POLYGLYCERIN-3 marketed under the name PGL-S by SAKAMOTO - POLYGLYCERIN -4 marketed under the name POLYGLYCERIN 310 by SAKAMOTO - POLYGLYCERIN -6 marketed under the name POLYGLYCERIN-500 MB by SAKAMOTO - POLYGLYCERIN -10 marketed under the name POLYGLYCERIN-750 MB by SAKAMOTO.
[0156] Example 1: Penetration kinetics of polyglycerols into the superficial layers of the skin
[0157] A prior (unpublished) study was conducted on sections of human skin examined by imaging (7T-MALDLFTICR Mass Spectrometry Imaging (MSI)) and demonstrated the benefits of using polyglycerols or mixtures of polyglycerols in the skin. This study showed, in particular, using an imaging method, that the penetration rate of polyglycerols and the depth of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin (epidermis and superficial dermis) are influenced by the molecular weight of these compounds, i.e., the size of the glycerol chain.
[0158] In practice, it has been shown that polyglycerol-4 penetrates more rapidly but remains in the superficial dermis, compared to polyglycerol-3, which penetrates rapidly and reaches the superficial dermis very quickly. Polyglycerol-5 and -6, on the other hand, penetrate less deeply than polyglycerol-3 or polyglycerol-4.
[0159] It follows from these data that it is particularly interesting to combine polyglycerols of different molecular weights in cosmetic compositions, in particular of average molecular weights distinct from each other of at least 100g / mol, or even at least 200g / mol, to obtain an effect both on the kinetics of skin penetration and on the depth of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin.
[0160] These compounds can act at different levels of the superficial layers of the skin and more or less rapidly, and produce their effect, in particular moisturizing and / or smoothing by swelling or filling of the superficial layers of the skin, with a lasting effect thanks to controlled penetration kinetics.
[0161] Combinations of polyglycerols are particularly preferred in cosmetic compositions comprising an aqueous phase, such as gelled aqueous compositions or emulsion-type compositions, in which the aqueous phase is dispersed in an oily phase (water-in-oil emulsion) or constitutes the continuous phase (oil-in-water emulsion).
[0162] Example 2 - Effect of the combination of the invention on skin smoothing
[0163] In the present example, we have studied the effect of combining the invention with a control formula.
[0164] The composition according to the invention comprises glycerol, a mixture of polyglycerols and a pro-penetrating agent (urea).
[0165] The formulas of the two compositions tested are described in Table 2 below (percentages expressed as weight of ingredient relative to the final formula):
[0166] [Tables2] Ingredients (INCI Names) Witness Invention A Polyglycerin-6 (POLYGLYCERIN 500 MB) - 6 A Polyglycerin-10 (POLYGLYCERIN 750 MB) - 6 A Urea (pro-penetrating agent) - 5 A Glycerol 5 A Diglycerol 1 A Acetylated Sodium Hyaluronate (Primalhyal™ Ultrafiller) 0.30 A Sodium Hyaluronate 0.05 A Butylene Glycol and Pentylene Glycol 8.5 B Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.5 C Vegetable Oils 7 D Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer 0.8 E Boron Nitride 0.5 F Preservatives Qs Water Qsp 100
[0167] The composition is prepared according to the process below:
[0168] Prepare the quantity of water in a beaker and heat it to 40°C.
[0169] Incorporate phase D and stir until homogenized and a gel forms.
[0170] Add phase A while stirring, then phase B.
[0171] Prepare phase C in another beaker, heat to 40°C.
[0172] Add phase C to the aqueous phase under vigorous stirring to form the emulsion.
[0173] Stop heating and then add E and then F while stirring, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Smoothing effect after 4 hours.
[0174] 1-Fingering
[0175] The study method is based on the creation of replicas (or impressions) of an area of skin of interest.
[0176] In the present case, the area studied is that of the corner of the eye, also called "crow's feet".
[0177] A first impression is taken before application of the composition under study (TEST or INVENTION).
[0178] To make the impression, a 24 mm diameter adhesive ring is applied to the test area. Silflo silicone casting resin (Flexico) and a catalyst (Flexico) are then spread inside the ring using a spatula. After drying, the replica is peeled off the skin surface.
[0179] A second impression is taken four hours after application of the cosmetic composition (Control or invention). The protocol is repeated for each cosmetic composition in the study.
[0180] 2-Image Analysis
[0181] Each replica is positioned on a support and illuminated using a grazing light lamp with an angle of incidence of 35 degrees (35°) in order to generate shadows behind each line of the skin surface.
[0182] These shadows are then analyzed on the video images of the replica. A MONADERM video imaging system is used, enabling the acquisition of high-resolution images of the imprint made and numerical values representing the shades of gray of each point (pixel) analyzed on the images.
[0183] The replicas taken after application of the tested cosmetic composition are strictly repositioned in relation to those taken before application, corresponding to T0.
[0184] The QUANTITRIDES software calculates the following parameters: number of wrinkles, total surface area of wrinkles in mm2; total length of wrinkles in mm; average length of wrinkles in mm; average depth of wrinkles in pm.
[0185] The smoothing effect itself is evaluated by comparing these parameters before and after application. If the smoothing effect is significant, a reduction in the areas of wrinkles, their length and / or their surface area or depth is observed.
[0186] For the present example, the test was carried out on a number of volunteers equal to 16. (n=16).
[0187] A quantity of the formula corresponding to 2 microliters per square centimeter (l / cm²) was applied to the tested area. An image was taken at T0 (before application) and then 4 hours after application of the product to the area studied.
[0188] The results, after 4 hours, are presented in Table 3 below:
[0189] [Tables3] Parameters evaluated Control Invention Reduction in the number of wrinkles - +++ Reduction in the total surface area of wrinkles - +++ Reduction in the total length of wrinkles - +++
[0190] +++: significant decrease (-10% to -20%), presence of a smoothing effect
[0191] - : no significant decrease, no smoothing effect
[0192] For the composition of the invention, four hours after application, a significant decrease in the number of wrinkles, the total surface area of the wrinkles and the total length of the wrinkles is observed.
[0193] For the control, no smoothing effect is measured, four hours after application of the formula.
[0194] This demonstrates the lasting smoothing effect produced by the composition of the invention compared to the tested control formula.
[0195] Example 3: Smoothing effect optimized by adding a film-forming agent to the association of the invention
[0196] In the present example, we have studied the effect of a cream according to the invention compared to a control formula.
[0197] The composition according to the invention comprises glycerol, a mixture of polyglycerols, a pro-penetrating agent (trimethylglycine, otherwise known as betaine) and a film-forming agent (pullulan).
[0198] The polyglycerol and pro-penetrating agent contents are lower than those used in Example 2 above, and the formula of the invention further contains a pullulan film-forming agent.
[0199] The formulas of the two compositions tested are described in Table 4 below (percentages expressed as a percentage of the final formula):
[0200] [Tables4] Ingredients (INCI Names) Witness Invention Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S MB) - 3 Polyglycerin-6 (POLYGLYCERIN 500 MB) - 2 Pullulan (film-forming agent) - 2 Trimethylglycine (pro-penetrating agent) 1 Glycerol 5.05 Glycols 8 Acetylated sodium hyaluronate (Primalhyal™ Ultrafiller) 0.30 Sodium hyaluronate 0.05 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer 0.8 Hydrogenated lecithin 0.5 Vegetable oils 7.0 Preservatives qs Boron nitride 0.5 Water qsp 100 Smoothing effect after 4 hours (n=13)
[0201] The test is carried out according to the method described in example 2, on a number of volunteers n equal to 13.
[0202] The results, after 4 hours, are presented in Table 5 below:
[0203] [Tables5] Parameters evaluated: Control formula, Invention formula. Reduction in the number of wrinkles: -++++ Reduction in the total surface area of wrinkles: -++++ Reduction in the total length of wrinkles: -++++
[0204] ++++: Significantly improved reduction (-22% to -30%), presence of a smoothing effect optimized thanks to the presence of the film-forming agent
[0205] - : no significant decrease, no smoothing effect
[0206] The composition of the invention produces a significantly improved smoothing effect, thanks to the presence of the film-forming agent (pullulan) combined with the association of polyglycerols, on the wrinkles of the eye contour four hours after application, compared to T0.
[0207] The control formula showed no significant smoothing effect on wrinkles in the same study area four hours after application, compared to T0. Example 4#: Fluid cream according to the invention
[0208] The composition below is a fluid cream in the form of a gelled aqueous oil-in-water emulsion, comprising a combination of polyglycerols of different molecular weights, glycerol and pro-penetrating agents (urea, PG-10 myristate and glyceryl stearate). Percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the final formula (Table 6).
[0209] [Tableauxô] Ingredients (INCI Names) % Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S) 6 Polyglycerin-6 (POLYGLYCERIN 500 MB) 5.4 Polyglycerin-10 (POLYGLYCERIN 750 MB) 5.4 Glycerol 6 Urea (pro-penetrating agent) 10 Vegetable Oil 10 Vegetable Triglyceride 5 Fatty Acids 3 Glyceryl Ester (PG-10 myristate) (pro-penetrating agent) 5 Glyceryl Stearate (pro-penetrating agent) 0.5 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.2 Xanthan Gum 0.1 Acetylated Sodium Hyaluronate (Primalhyal1 M Ultrafiller) 0.30 Sodium Hyaluronate 0.05 Pentylene Glycol 0.5 Preservatives q.s. pH Adjuster q.s. Water q.s. 100
[0210] The composition of Table 6 above is tested according to the method described in Example 2 on a number of volunteers equal to 15.
[0211] The composition has a smoothing effect on wrinkles in the area around the corner of the eye. The number of wrinkles and the total length of wrinkles decreased significantly (by 15% to 20%) four hours after application of the composition to the area studied. Example 5#: Thick cream according to the invention
[0212] The composition below is a thick eye contour cream in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising a combination of polyglycerols of different molecular weights, glycerol and pro-penetrating agents (urea, steareth-21 and steareth-2).
[0213] The formula is detailed in Table 7 below. Percentages are expressed as a percentage of the final composition.
[0214] [Tables?] Ingredients (INCI Names) % Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S) 6 Polyglycerin-6 (POLYGLYCERIN 500 MB) 5.4 Polyglycerin-10 (POLYGLYCERIN 750 MB) 5.4 Glycerol 3.9 Urea (pro-penetrating agent) 10 Polyurethane-35 (film-forming agent) 4 Oils 18.0 Stearyl Alcohol 1.3 Steareth-21 (pro-penetrating agent) 1 Steareth-2 (pro-penetrating agent) 0.5 Waxes 0.5 Preservatives q.s. Acrylates / C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.3 Xanthan Gum 0.1 Acetylated Sodium Hyaluronate (Primalhyal™ Ultrafiller) 0.1 Sodium Hyaluronate 0.1 Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 Glycols 3.6 Water Qs 100
[0215] The composition of Table 7 above is tested according to the method described in Example 2 on a number of volunteers equal to 15.
[0216] The composition has a smoothing effect on wrinkles in the area around the corner of the eye. The total wrinkle surface area and the total wrinkle length decreased significantly (from -15% to -20%), four hours after application of the composition to the area studied. Example 6#: Lip Composition
[0217] The composition below is a lip composition, comprising a combination of polyglycerols of different molecular weights, glycerol and smoothing agents (hyaluronic acids).
[0218] The formula is detailed in Table 8 below. Percentages are expressed as a percentage of the final composition.
[0219] [Tables8] Ingredients Content (%) Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S) 1.0 Polyglycerin-6 (POLYGLYCERIN 500 MB) 4.5 Vegetable Oil 38 Hydroxystearic Acid 1.2 Gelling Agent (Bentone) 1.3 Vegetable Wax 5 Cellulose 2 Glycerol 1.0 Carbopol 0.2 Sodium Hyaluronate 0.5 Acetylated Sodium Hyaluronate (Primalhyal™ Ultrafiller) 0.3 Preservatives 0.3 Water Q.S.P. 100
[0220] Applied to the lips and the area around the lips, this composition gives a smoothing and plumping effect to the lips and the area around them.
Claims
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition for care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and: - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g / mol, - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g / mol, - and optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000 g / mol, it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, higher than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient,characterized in that it further comprises a pro-penetrating agent chosen from the group consisting of hydrophilic molecules chosen from urea and its derivatives, glycine, trimethylglycine (betaine), and their mixtures, in a total content ranging from 1 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.,
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises: - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10, - a second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10, distinct from the INCI name of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient, - and optionally in addition a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and second ingredients, and comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose the INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that it comprises: - a first cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6, or - a first cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, or - a first cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, or - a first cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3, a second cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6, and a third cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units ranges from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one moisturizing agent, preferably at least one polyol chosen from the group consisting of sugars such as trehalose, mannitol, xylitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof and C2-C8 glycols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a skin smoothing agent, in particular one or more hyaluronic acids or one of their salts, and their mixture.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a film-forming polymer, in particular chosen from the group consisting of synthetic polymers or polymers of natural origin, in particular polymers vinyls, polyacrylates, polyurethanes, celluloses and their derivatives, polysaccharides and their derivatives, and their mixtures.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a composition for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or the lips, in the form of a lotion, a gel, a cream, for example a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, a serum, preferably in the form of a gelled aqueous phase.
9. Cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, in particular for smoothing the skin, restoring the volume of the face and / or lips, providing firmness and / or elasticity, and / or reducing and / or filling wrinkles.
10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least: - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g / mol, and - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol, as an active combination for smoothing the skin, restoring the volume of the face and / or lips, providing firmness and / or elasticity, and / or reducing and / or filling wrinkles.