COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A GEL-CREAM EMULSION WITH HIGH SALT ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A GEL-CREAM EMULSION WITH HIGH-SALT ACTIVE INGREDIENTS. A cosmetic composition in the form of a direct oil-in-water creamy emulsion comprises aqueous and oily phases. The aqueous phase comprises a salt-stable polymer system including a polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, xanthan gum, and one or more clays, as well as high amounts of vitamin C, oils, and emulsifiers. It provides a pleasant feel upon application with a smooth, gliding texture and does not form significant pilling, clumping, or kinking when applied to the skin. The cosmetic composition does not exhibit phase separation into solid / liquid or oily / aqueous layers. Figure for abbreviation: NONE

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A GEL-CREAM EMULSION WITH ACTIVE INGREDIENTS HIGH SALT CONTENT FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates generally to a cosmetic composition in the form of a direct emulsion (oil in water) of intermediate to high viscosity, with a high salt content, and a method of making the same. The cosmetic composition has a stable cream-gel texture that is resistant to pudding and pilling and includes high amounts of skin actives such as vitamin C and pH adjusters. The cosmetic composition is useful for strengthening the skin, for example by improving skin smoothness and radiance, minimizing the appearance of pores, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, brightening the skin, reducing the effects of acne, and reducing one or more of the following: dryness, tightness, dark spots and inflammatory lesions or a combination thereof. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] There are a variety of skin conditions that benefit from cosmetic products that can be applied and left on the skin to brighten the skin, reduce the effects of acne, and reduce one or more of the following: dryness, tightness, dark spots, and inflammatory lesions, among other possible benefits. Many skin care products contain active ingredients that address one or more of these or other skin concerns, but it remains a challenge to provide products that contain high enough amounts of actives to impart the desired benefits while maintaining desirable aesthetic properties upon application. For example, the inclusion of high amounts of actives such as acids requires pH adjusters, which results in a high salt content that may destabilize the product and cause a watering-out effect.Products that contain large amounts of active ingredients are often formulated with high levels of oils, emulsifiers, or thickeners to stabilize the active ingredients. Such formulations can be heavy and leave skin feeling greasy or cause dryness or irritation.

[0003] Accordingly, there is a need in the art for a cosmetic composition that is stable and maintains a desirable skin application aesthetic in the presence of high amounts of actives with a desirable gel-cream texture. The invention provides a composition that provides the sensory benefits popular cream-gels while stabilizing a high salt system and is useful for one or more of the benefits of improving skin smoothness and radiance, minimizing the appearance of pores, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, brightening skin, reducing the effects of acne, and reducing one or more of the following: dryness, tightness, dark spots and inflammatory lesions or a combination thereof. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0004] The summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form which are further described below in the detailed description of the invention. This summary is not intended to identify key features of the claimed subject matter, nor to be used as an aid in determining the scope of the claimed subject matter.

[0005] In various embodiments, a cosmetic composition is provided for use according to the invention which comprises an intermediate to high viscosity direct emulsion cosmetic composition and a method of making the same for improving skin smoothness and radiance, minimizing the appearance of pores, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, brightening skin, reducing the effects of acne, and reducing one or more of the following: dryness, tightness, dark spots, and inflammatory lesions or a combination thereof.The cosmetic composition is particularly stable at high electrolyte levels and comprises a salt-stable polymer system comprising a polymer blend and clay, such that the cosmetic composition resists pilling, sloshing and phase separation at high salt levels (in some embodiments, equal to or greater than about 2%), providing a smooth, creamy and lightweight gel-cream texture.

[0006] The cosmetic composition is in the form of a direct oil-in-water emulsion that comprises aqueous and oily phases. In various embodiments, the aqueous phase comprises a salt-stable polymer system that comprises a polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, xanthan gum, and one or more clays, wherein the total amount of the combination of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 and xanthan gum present in the cosmetic composition is between about 0.5% and about 1.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In various embodiments, the at least one clay may be selected from the group of clays consisting of smectite, illite, chlorite, vermiculite, sodium smectite, calcium smectite, attapulgite, and combinations thereof. In certain particular embodiments, the at least one clay is a smectite clay from the mica phylosilicate family.In some embodiments, the composition excludes kaolinites. And in some particular embodiments, the at least one clay comprises hectorite. The aqueous phase also comprises at least one acidic skin active present in the form of cosmetic acids. tically acceptable, and one or more neutralizing agents present together with the at least one acidic skin active to provide a pH in a range of about 4.5 to about 7.5, and in some embodiments, about pH 6. The oily phase comprises at least one oil, and at least one emulsifier. In the various embodiments, the cosmetic composition also comprises in the aqueous phase one or more solvents comprising at least water.

[0007] In some embodiments, the aqueous phase comprises a salt-stable polymer system that includes polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, present in a range of about 0.1% to about 1.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, xanthan gum, present in a range of about 0.1% to about 1.0%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and one or more clays, present in a range of about 0.1% to about 2%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the combination of polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 and xanthan gum present in the cosmetic composition is no more than about 1.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0008] In certain particular embodiments, the aqueous phase comprises a salt-stable polymer system that comprises a crosslinked polyacrylate-6 polymer, xanthan gum, and hectorite.

[0009] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise a filler, for example, cellulose, silica silylate, or a combination thereof.

[0010] In some embodiments, the aqueous phase also comprises one or more cosmetically acceptable acids, present in a range of about 4% to about 15%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and a neutralizing agent present to provide a pH in a range of about 4.5 to about 7.5, and in some embodiments, about pH 6. In some particular embodiments, the neutralizing agent is present in a range of about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0011] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises a salt present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of between about 0.1% and about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some particular embodiments, the salt is present in an amount greater than 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0012] In some embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable acid is selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid, a beta hydroxy acid, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable acid is selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid, a beta hydroxy acid, and combinations thereof. tically acceptable is selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, azelaic acid, kojic acid, chlorogenic acid, ferulic acid, zinc PCA, gallic acid, hyaluronic acid and combinations thereof.

[0013] In some embodiments, the neutralizing agent is selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and combinations thereof.

[0014] In some embodiments, the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of Copernicia cerifera (camauba) wax, dicaprylyl carbonate, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated lecithin, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, and combinations thereof.

[0015] In some embodiments, the at least one emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of liquid crystal emulsifiers, polysaccharide-based emulsifiers, hydrophobically modified emulsifiers, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl isostearate, glycol stearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, steareth-20, and combinations thereof.

[0016] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more water-soluble solvents. In some embodiments, the one or more water-soluble solvents are glycerin.

[0017] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more pigments selected from the group consisting of mica (and) lauroyl lysine, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) magnesium silicate (and) tin oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide, titanium dioxide and combinations thereof.

[0018] The cosmetic composition may also include one or more additional ingredients selected from, but not limited to, phenylethyl resorcinol, chelating agents, other skin active components, antimicrobials and preservatives, fillers, antioxidants, fragrances, pearlizing agents, odor absorbers, colorants, essential oils, vitamins, and combinations thereof.

[0019] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more actives or additives present in either the aqueous phase or the oily phase, for example, including, but not limited to, the group consisting of aescin, retinol, capryloyl salicylic acid, citric acid, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, and combinations thereof.

[0020] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition excludes (i.e., is free or essentially free of) one or all of the ingredients selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, sclerotium gum, cellulose gum, locust bean gum, gellan, stearic acid, vegetable butters above 5%, high levels of saturated alcohols / fatty acids above Cl6, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / vp copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and combinations thereof.

[0021] The invention also provides in certain embodiments a method of forming a salt-stable direct emulsion cosmetic composition. According to the method, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is prepared by mixing the polymer components of the salt-stable polymer system of the aqueous phase, adding at least one acid, whereupon the mixture typically thickens appreciably, and correcting the pH to obtain a final pH in a range of from about 4.5 to about 7.5, or more particularly from about 4 to about 7, or more particularly from about 6, by the addition of a base such as sodium or potassium hydroxide.

[0022] The present disclosure describes exemplary embodiments consistent with the general inventive concepts and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Indeed, the invention as described in the specification is broader than and not limited by the exemplary embodiments set forth herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meanings. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] In the context of the invention, a direct emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0024] As used herein, the term "instability" of a composition refers to emulsion properties selected from the group consisting of phase separation, aqueous texture, pilling or bulging upon application or the failure of some or all of the applied composition to penetrate the skin upon application and form small globules, strands / noodles or particles that accumulate on the skin surface, and the failure to spread as a uniform emulsion upon application to a substrate, and combinations thereof. Instability may occur in compositions made outside the scope of the disclosure, i.e., compositions lacking one or more ingredients of the salt-stable polymer system or including the combination of the polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 and xanthan gum in amounts outside the inventive range.In particular, as exemplified here, the composition . inventive cosmetic composition is stable when maintained for two weeks at 60°C, the cosmetic composition not exhibiting visible properties selected from the group consisting of phase separation; aqueous texture; pilling or bulging upon application or the failure of some or all of the applied composition to penetrate the skin when applied and form small globules, strands / noodles or particles that accumulate on the skin surface, and the failure to be spread as a uniform emulsion when applied to a substrate, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, a composition is considered stable when it resists the formation of globules, strands / noodles or particles on the skin (generally referred to as "pilling or bulging"), for example by exhibiting minimal pilling or bulging, or no pilling or bulging.

[0025] The terms "excluded," "exempt," and "essentially exempt" mean that no reliably measurable excluded material, e.g., excluded gellan and other gelling agents, stearic acid, vegetable butters greater than about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and saturated fatty acids / alcohols above C16 present in amounts greater than about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, or other excluded material as described herein, is present in the salt-stable direct emulsion cosmetic composition.The term "substantially free" means that, although it is preferable that no excluded material be present in the salt-stable direct emulsion cosmetic composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the salt-stable direct emulsion cosmetic composition of the invention, provided that such amounts do not materially affect the beneficial properties of the salt-stable direct emulsion cosmetic composition. In particular, "substantially free" means that the excluded material may be present in the salt-stable direct emulsion cosmetic composition in an amount of less than 5%, or less than 4%, or less than 3%, or less than 2%, or less than 1%, or less than 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the salt-stable direct emulsion cosmetic composition.

[0026] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition does not use or minimizes the use of non-renewable ingredients (e.g., mineral oil and petroleum-based ingredients) and ingredients that have a negative impact on the environment (e.g., EDTA which mobilizes heavy metals). Thus, in some embodiments, the cosmetic composition is free or essentially free of non-renewable ingredients and ingredients that have a negative impact on the environment, and in some particular embodiments, it excludes or is essentially free of ingredients selected from the group consisting of parabens, phthalates, cyclomethicones, silicone, mineral oil, synthetic dyes, sulfates, polyquaternium, microplastics, EDTA, silicone oils, mineral UV filtering agents, organic UV filtering agents, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include only nominal amounts of petroleum-based ingredients or may be free of petroleum-based ingredients.

[0027] As illustrated herein, the inventors have provided the cosmetic composition in the form of a direct oil-in-water emulsion comprising aqueous and oily phases. In some embodiments, the aqueous phase comprises a salt-stable polymer system that comprises a polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, xanthan gum, and one or more clays, wherein in some embodiments, the total amount of polymer combination of polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 and xanthan gum present in the cosmetic composition is not greater than about 1.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The aqueous phase also comprises at least one acidic skin active present in the form of cosmetically acceptable acids, and one or more neutralizing agents present in conjunction with the at least one acidic skin active to provide a pH in a range of about 4.5 to about 7.5, or a pH of 6.The oily phase comprises at least one oil, and at least one emulsifier. In the various embodiments, the cosmetic composition also comprises in the aqueous phase one or more solvents comprising at least water. The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more additional ingredients selected from, but not limited to, chelating agents, other skin active components, antimicrobials and preservatives, fillers, antioxidants, fragrances, pearlizing agents, odor absorbers, coloring materials, essential oils, vitamins, and combinations thereof.

[0028] The stability that is achieved with the salt-stable polymeric system solves a key problem in the art relating to the inclusion of effective levels of skin actives in a stable and aesthetically pleasing composition. In particular, due to the acidity of vitamin C, a large amount of NaOH must be added to a composition to neutralize / correct it to the desired pH. Most polymeric thickeners are sensitive to electrolytes which disrupt the polymeric network and result in low viscosity formulations. Those that are more tolerant to electrolytes tend to have an increased incidence of sloshing / pilling.The invention provides a composition with unexpected advantages in which the thickened direct emulsion with a pH of about 6, and containing 7% vitamin C in exemplary embodiments, which comprises a specific mixture of polymers with clay, oils and emulsifiers, provides a pleasant sensation when . application with a smooth, slippery texture and does not form "pills," "balls," or "noodles" in a serious manner when applied to the skin. The cosmetic composition has a medium to high viscosity (i.e., it has a thick, creamy consistency) with a high salt content (i.e., greater than 2%). Notably, the creamy emulsion does not undergo phase separation into solid / liquid or oily and aqueous layers. These benefits are shown to be directly dependent on the controlled amounts of each of the polymer blend components and the cosmetically acceptable acid in the cosmetic composition, as further described herein.

[0029] In accordance with certain embodiments, it is contemplated to exclude all or part of the following ingredients from the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention: gellan and other gelling agents, stearic acid, vegetable butters in an amount greater than about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and C16 saturated alcohols / fatty acids present in amounts greater than about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0030] Accordingly, in various embodiments, the salt-stable composition is provided according to the following detailed description. SALT-STABLE POLYMER SYSTEM Polymers and clay

[0031] In accordance with the disclosure, the cosmetic composition comprises a salt-stable polymer system that comprises a polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 (commercially available from Seppic under the trademark SEPIMAX ZEN TM), xanthan gum and at least one clay. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition, including the salt-stable polymer system, expressly excludes ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, sclerotium gum, cellulose gum, locust bean gum, gellan and combinations thereof.

[0032] In various embodiments, the at least one clay may be selected from the group of clays consisting of smectite, sodium smectite, calcium smectite, illite, chlorite, vermiculite, attapulgite, and combinations thereof. In some particular embodiments, the at least one clay is a smectite clay of the mica phylosilicate family. And in some particular embodiments, the at least one clay comprises hectorite. In some embodiments, the composition excludes kaolinites.

[0033] In some particular embodiments, the salt-stable polymer system comprises a crosslinked polyacrylate polymer-6, xanthan gum, and at least one hectorite. In some particular embodiments, the salt-stable polymer system consists of crosslinked polyacrylate polymer-6, xanthan gum and hectorite.

[0034] In some embodiments, the polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 may be present in a range of about 0.1% to about 1.5%, the xanthan gum may be present in a range of about 0.1% to about 1%, and one or more clays may be present in a range of about 0.1% to about 2.0%, all amounts by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0035] In some embodiments, the polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 present in the cosmetic composition is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 2.0%, or from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.3% to about 1%, or from about 0.5% to about 0.8%, or from about 0.5% or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0036] In some embodiments, the xanthan gum present in the cosmetic composition is in an amount of about 0.1% to about 1.5%, or about 0.1% to about 1%, or about 0.1% to about 0.8%, or about 0.2% to about 0.5%, or about 0.3% or about 0.5% or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0037] In some embodiments, the total amount of the polymer combination of polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 and xanthan gum present in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.1% to about 2.0%, or from about 0.3% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, or from about 1.0% to about 1.5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. One of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention. In some embodiments, the total amount of the polymer combination of polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 and xanthan gum present in the cosmetic composition is not more than about 1.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0038] In some embodiments, the at least one clay present in the cosmetic composition is in an amount of about 0.1% to about 2.5%, or about 0.1% to about 2%, or about 0.2% to about 0.8%, or about 0.3% to about 0.6%, or about 0.5% or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. In some particular embodiments, the at least one clay is hectorite present in an amount of about 0.3% to about 0.6%.

[0039] Thus, each of the polymers and clay in the cosmetic composition is present by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, as indicated above, of about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, to about 2.5 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0040] Cosmetically acceptable acids (acid-based skin actives)

[0041] In some embodiments, the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition comprises at least one or a combination of ascorbic acid or analogs thereof, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids or other cosmetically acceptable acids, or any combination thereof. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more acids selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, azelaic acid, kojic acid, chlorogenic acid, ferulic acid, zinc PCA, gallic acid, hyaluronic acid and combinations thereof. In some particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises at least ascorbic acid.

[0042] The cosmetic composition is a creamy direct emulsion that may be a rinse-off or leave-on formulation, wherein the cosmetic composition has a viscosity that is greater than that of a gel or gel-cream texture and is not fluid when applied. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be provided infused into a suitable substrate or contained in a dispenser.

[0043] In various embodiments, the total amount of cosmetically acceptable acid present in a range of about 1% to about 20%, or about 4% to about 15%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and a neutralizing agent present to provide a pH in a range of about 4.5 to about 7.5, and in some embodiments pH 6.

[0044] Thus, the cosmetically acceptable acid may be present by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0045] In various embodiments, the neutralizing agent is present in a range of about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0046] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises salt (including salt provided by pH-correcting neutralizing agents, as described in more detail herein) present in the cosmetic composition as an amount of between about 0.1% and about 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In certain particular embodiments, the salt is present in an amount greater than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0047] Thus, the salt may be present as a contribution of one or more pH-correcting neutralizing agents by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 3, to about 4 percent by weight, including increments and ranges therein. Overall, the salt, as contributed by the ingredients of the composition, including at least, but not limited to, the pH-correcting neutralizing agent(s) and the cosmetically acceptable acid(s), may be present by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, up to about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges.Of course, it will be appreciated that the amount of salt in the composition as contributed by any ingredient, for example pH adjusters and acids, will also depend on the final pH of a preparation and the amount of acid used. Ascorbic acid

[0048] According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise ascorbic acid, or vitamin C.

[0049] Ascorbic acid may be provided by the addition of any reducing analog of ascorbic acid, such as D-isoascorbic acid, or by the addition of other small reducing compounds such as, but not limited to, glutathione, L-cysteamine and the like. Such forms are intended to provide a composition equivalent to that claimed and are within the scope of the invention.

[0050] Ascorbic acid and its derivatives may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 1% to about 15%, and in some embodiments, from about 3% to about 15%, and in some embodiments, from about 6% to about 12%, and in some embodiments, from about 5% to about 12%, and in some embodiments, from about 6% to about 8%, and in some embodiments, from about 7%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0051] Thus, ascorbic acid, when present, may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, to about 15 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Alpha hydroxy acid

[0052] According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one alpha hydroxy acid.

[0053] Suitable alpha hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, their ester derivatives and combinations thereof. Examples of ester derivatives include lactic acid ester compounds, such as methyl lactate, ethyl lactate, butyl lactate and, similarly, ester compounds of glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid. A particularly suitable alpha hydroxy acid is lactic acid. Lactic acid, or 2-hydroxypropanoic acid, is provided in a composition to enable enhanced exfoliation of the skin. In addition, lactic acid also stimulates the production of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in the skin, thereby improving the barrier function and hydration of the skin.

[0054] In certain particular embodiments, an alpha hydroxy acid in the cosmetic composition may include at least one of the following acids: lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, and citric acid.

[0055] The cosmetic composition may comprise a concentration of alpha hydroxy acid in a range of from about 4% to about 15%, or from about 8% to about 14%, or from about 9% to about 13%, or from about 10% to about 12%, or from about 10%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. One of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention. In some embodiments, the amount of alpha hydroxy acid present is not more than about 10%.

[0056] Thus, any one of the alpha hydroxy acids or a combination of alpha hydroxy acids, when present, may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, to about 15% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Beta hydroxy acid

[0057] According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one beta hydroxy acid. In certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include a beta hydroxy acid comprising salicylic acid.

[0058] The term "beta hydroxy acid" is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms. A beta hydroxy acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in the form of the free acid and / or in the form of one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali metal, in particular), in particular depending on the final pH imposed on the cosmetic composition.

[0059] Suitable beta hydroxy acids include salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, willow extract), capryloyl salicylic acid, beta hydroxybutanoic acid, propionic acid, beta hydroxymethylbutyric acid, carnitine tropic acid, trethocanic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0060] And in certain particular embodiments, the beta hydroxy acid in the cosmetic composition may include at least one of salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate and willow extract), capryloyl salicylic acid, beta hydroxy butanoic acid, propionic acid, beta hydroxy methylbutyric acid, carnitine tropic acid and trethocanic acid.

[0061] The cosmetic composition may comprise a concentration of beta hydroxy acid in a range of from about 0.1% up to and not more than about 2% beta hydroxy acid, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise up to and not more than about 2%, or about 1.9% beta hydroxy acid. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise up to and not more than about 1% beta hydroxy acid. In some embodiments, the amount of beta hydroxy acid, if present, does not exceed about 0.40% to about 0.50%.In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise from about 0.1% to about 1% beta hydroxy acid, or from about 0.2% to about 2.0%, or from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.2% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.3% to about 1.0%, or from about 0.35% to about 0.75%, or from about 0.4% to about 0.5%, or is about 0.45%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0062] Thus, the at least one beta hydroxy acid, when present, may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, up to about 2.0% by weight, including increments and all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Gallic acid

[0063] According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise gallic acid.

[0064] Gallic acid (also known as 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoic acid) is a trihydroxybenzoic acid, a type of phenolic acid, found in gallnuts, sumac, witch hazel, tea leaves, oak bark, and other plants. The chemical formula of gallic acid is C6H2(OH)3COOH. It is found both free and as part of hydrolyzable tannins.

[0065] According to certain embodiments, gallic acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 2% to about 9%, or from about 3% to about 7%, or from about 4% to about 6%, or from about 4% to about 5%, or from about 5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. According to certain embodiments, the amount of gallic acid present is at least about 5% to about 10%.

[0066] Thus, gallic acid, when present, may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, to about 10 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Ferulic acid

[0067] According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise ferulic acid.

[0068] Ferulic acid, which is a hydroxycinnamic acid commonly found in ammoniac, coffee beans, apple, artichoke, peanut, and orange, as well as in the seeds and cell walls of commelinid plants (such as rice, wheat, oats, and pineapple). Like many natural phenols, it is a powerful antioxidant that is highly reactive toward free radicals and reduces oxidative stress.

[0069] According to certain embodiments, ferulic acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in a range of about 0.1% to about 2.0%, or about 0.2% to about 1.5%, or about 0.3% to about 1.0%, or about 0.35% to about 0.75%, or about 0.4% to about 0.5%, or about 0.5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. According to certain embodiments, the amount of ferulic acid present is at least about 0.5%.

[0070] Thus, ferulic acid, when present, may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9 to about 2.0 weight percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. Zinc PCA

[0071] According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise Zinc PCA. Zinc PCA is the zinc salt of pyrrolidone car- boxylic.

[0072] According to certain embodiments, the amount of Zinc PCA, when present in the cosmetic composition, is from about 0.1% to about 2.0%, or from about 0.2% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.3% to about 1.0%, or from about 0.4% to about 0.8%, or is about 0.5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. According to certain embodiments, the amount of Zinc PCA present is not more than from about 0.4% to about 0.8%.

[0073] Thus, Zinc PCA, when present in the cosmetic composition, may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9 up to about 2.0% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Azelaic acid

[0074] According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise azelaic acid.

[0075] In the various embodiments, azelaic acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in a range of from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, or from about 0.5% to about 3%, or from about 0.75% to about 1%, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, or from about 0.5% to about 0.75%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0076] Thus, azelaic acid, when present, may be present in the cosmetic composition, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, up to about 3.0 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. Phytic and chlorogenic acids

[0077] According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one phytic acid or chlorogenic acid. Phytic acid is also known as phytate and is a sixfold dihydrogen phosphate ester of inositol (specifically, the myo isomer), also known as inositol hexakisphosphate (IP6) or inositol polyphosphate. At physiological pH, phosphates are partially ionized, resulting in the phytate anion. Phytic acid occurs naturally in plant seeds and is a storage form phosphorus. Chlorogenic acid is also known as chlorogenate or 3-caffeoylquinate and belongs to the class of organic compounds known as quinic acids and derivatives. Chlorogenic acid is the ester of caffeic acid (a hydroxycinnamic acid related to ferulic acid, as described above) and (ÿ)-quinic acid.

[0078] The phytic acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 4%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. As illustrated in the present disclosure, the phytic acid raw material is provided at a 50% dilution such that the exemplified percentages, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic compositions, in the cosmetic composition are multiplied by 0.5 to obtain the final percentage, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, of phytic acid.

[0079] The chlorogenic acid may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 1.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 1.1% to about 1.2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0080] Thus, in various embodiments, one or more of phytic and chlorogenic acids, when present, may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure, and each of the individual components within the above-described ranges of about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 to about 30 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Solvents Water

[0081] In accordance with the various embodiments, water is present in the cosmetic composition in a range of about 10% to about 95%, or about 20% to about 85%, or about 30% to about 80%, or about 40% to about 75%, or about 45% to about 55%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0082] Thus, water may be present by weight, relative to the weight of the composition cosmetic, of approximately 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90 up to about 95 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0083] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., restoring the characteristics of thermal water.

[0084] The pH of the cosmetic composition is corrected based on the amount of cosmetically acceptable acid to be between about 4.5 and 7.5, or between about 5 and about 7, or between about 5 and about 6, or between about 6 and about 7. The pH is corrected to the desired value by the addition of a base (organic or inorganic), for example sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or another suitable base, or combinations thereof. Water-soluble solvents

[0085] According to some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one water-soluble solvent. The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and that has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80% or 90% in water under these conditions. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., selected from water-soluble C1-C30, C1-C15, C1-C10 or C1-C4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols, glycols or mixtures thereof.

[0086] In certain particular embodiments according to the disclosure, when present, a water-soluble solvent may include glycerin.

[0087] As examples of organic solvents, non-limiting mentions may be made of monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or of glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol and glycerin. Organic solvents may be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

[0088] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols such as glycols and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane, or mixtures thereof. ;

[0089] In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of the at least one water-soluble solvent, when present, is from about 0.1% to about 25%, or from about 0.1% to about 2%, or from about 0.1% to about 1%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.8%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 1% to about 20%, or from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 2% to about 8%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises more than one water-soluble solvent, each water-soluble solvent being present in an amount as indicated above, each different water-soluble solvent being able to be present in one of the ranges selected from the ranges indicated above.

[0090] Thus, each water-soluble solvent or combination of solvents, when present, may be present by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 to about 25 weight percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. OIL PHASE Oil

[0091] In accordance with the various embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one oil. In some embodiments, the oil is generally immiscible in water. The oil may be selected from hydrocarbons, silicones, fatty alcohols, glycols, and vegetable oils. The oil may comprise one or a combination of polar and non-polar oil. In some embodiments, the oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils derived from plants or of vegetable origin, mineral oils, ester oils, fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and combinations thereof.

[0092] In accordance with certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise an emulsion that comprises one or more oils, alone or in combination, with one or more emulsifiers (as described herein), wherein the emulsifier is present in an amount of between about 15% and about 40% of the total amount of oils present in the cosmetic composition.

[0093] In some particular embodiments, the at least one oil comprises a blend of oils comprising Copernicia cerifera (camauba) wax, dicaprylyl carbonate, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated lecithin, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, and combinations thereof.

[0094] In certain particular embodiments, the at least one oil comprises an oil or a mixture of oils provided at concentrations as indicated which are selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl carbonate* (-6%), glycol stearate (-2%), hydrogenated lecithin (-0.5%), isononyl isononanoate (-7%) and isopropyl isostearate (-2%), and combinations thereof.

[0095] In certain particular embodiments, the oil(s) comprise one or a mixture of oils provided at concentrations as indicated, which are selected from the group consisting of Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax (-0.2%), glycol stearate (-2%), Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil (-3%), hydrogenated jojoba oil (-0.5%), hydrogenated lecithin (-0.5%), isononyl isononanoate (-4.5%), isopropyl isostearate (-4%), and combinations thereof.

[0096] In certain particular embodiments, the oil(s) comprise one or a mixture of oils provided at concentrations as indicated, which are selected from the group consisting of Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax (-0.2%), glycol stearate (-2%), Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil (-1.5%), hydrogenated jojoba oil (-0.5%), hydrogenated lecithin (-0.5%), isononyl isononanoate (-4.5%), isopropyl isostearate (-4%), and combinations thereof.

[0097] In certain particular embodiments, the at least one oil comprises an oil or mixture of oils provided at concentrations as indicated, which are selected from the group consisting of Copemicia cerifera (camauba) wax (-1.0%), dicaprylyl carbonate* (-6%), glycol stearate (-2%), hydrogenated lecithin (-0.5%), isononyl isononanoate (-7%), isopropyl isostearate (-2%), and combinations thereof.

[0098] As used herein, oil refers to any non-polar compound that is liquid at 25°C and is hydrophobic and lipophilic. The oil suitable for use herein may be volatile or non-volatile. The term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or a keratinous fiber in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, including from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mmHg). The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratinous fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and especially has a vapor pressure of less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0099] According to the disclosure, by way of non-limiting example, the oil(s) of the cosmetic composition may be chosen from botanical and essential oils, such as Helianthus annuus seed oil, Lavandula An-gustifolia (lavender) oil, Mentha Piperita oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil, Pelargonium Graveolens flower oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange), Menthe Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil, Rose Flower Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, and combinations thereof.

[0100] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon oil may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, a mineral hydrocarbon oil or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil. In addition, a suitable oil may be a mineral hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil. Silicone oils

[0101] The cosmetic composition may comprise one or more silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In some cases, the cosmetic composition comprises dimethicone, and optionally additional oils, including additional silicone oils. Typically, the one or more silicone oils are a non-volatile silicone oil.In some embodiments, the silicone oil is a polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), a polydimethylsiloxane comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylsilicones, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[0102] Among the other examples of silicone oils which may be mentioned, mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8x106 m2 / s) and containing in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils which may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Fluorinated oils

[0103] The cosmetic composition may comprise one or more fluorinated oils. For example, the fluorinated oil(s) may be selected from the group consisting of perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, bromoperfluorooctyl, nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoroethoxyisobutane and 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine. Volatile fluorinated oils, such as nona-fluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, may also be used. Hydrocarbon oils

[0104] The cosmetic composition may comprise one or more hydrocarbon oils. For example, the hydrocarbon oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil and / or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene. A hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, such as:

[0105] (i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, these chains being able to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; These oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candelabra oil, passionflower oil and rosehip oil.

[0106] (ii) synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0107] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;

[0108] (iv) synthetic esters, for example oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R+R' is ÿ 10, for example Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, palmitate isopropyl, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isonanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;citrates or tartrates, such as di(C12-C13 linear alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also di(C14-C15 linear alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; or acetates; ;

[0109] (v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, containing a carbon chain branched and / or unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0110] (vi) higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

[0111] (vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC(TM) by Cognis;

[0112] (viii) fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205(TM) from Ajinomoto; and

[0113] (ix) essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil,patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, nard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil and ylang ylang.

[0114] The hydrocarbon oils may be glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol. Volatile hydrocarbon oils include hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as petroleum-based C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters, and isohexyl neopentanoate.

[0115] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise one or more oils such as those described above, and oils which may be selected from liquid, branched or linear alkanes having a carbon chain length of C11 to C20. In various embodiments, the liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length of C11 to C20. The liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length of C11 to C20, or C15 to C19, or one of C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18 to C19. In certain particular embodiments, suitable liquid alkanes that may be used according to the disclosure include hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes.

[0116] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise one or more oils selected from polar emollients selected from esters, triglycerides, ethers, carbonates, alcohols, oils, butters, fatty acids, and combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the polar emollients may be selected from those having a molecular weight of 400 g / mol or less. More generally, the polar emollient may have a molecular weight of between about 50 g / mol and about 350 g / mol.

[0117] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise polar emollients which include those derived from C12-C50 fatty acids, preferably C16-C22 saturated fatty acids, and monohydric alcohols. In some embodiments, these esters may be selected from isopropyl myristate, methyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl laurate, ethylhexyl oleate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and fatty alcohols having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0118] The oil(s), when present, alone or in combination as a mixture of oils, may be present in the cosmetic composition from about 0.0001% to about 20% or from about 0.001% to about 0.0010%, or from about 0.003% to about 0.004%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.5% to about 20%, or from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 5% to about 10%, or from about 2% to about 7%, or from about 0.5% to about 2%, or from about 0.008% to about 0.01%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or from about 0.5% to about 2%, or about or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition cosmetic. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises more than one oil, each oil being present in an amount as defined above, wherein each different oil (such as, for example, vegetable oils and extracts with oils) may be present in one of the ranges selected from the ranges defined above.

[0119] Thus, each of the at least one oil or combination of oils is present by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of approximately 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 up to about 20 percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. Emulsifier

[0120] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one emulsifier suitably selected depending on whether the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion. In some of these embodiments, the mixture of two or more emulsifiers comprises emulsifiers that are selected from only one of anionic emulsifiers, amphoteric / zwitterionic emulsifiers, non-ionic emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the mixture of two or more emulsifiers comprises emulsifiers that are selected from at least two anionic emulsifiers, amphoteric / zwitterionic emulsifiers, non-ionic emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the mixture of emulsifiers comprises only two emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the mixture of emulsifiers comprises three or more emulsifiers.

[0121] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises one, two, three or more emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the at least one emulsifier comprises one or more liquid crystal emulsifiers, e.g., C14-22 alcohols (and) C12-20 alkylglucosides (commercially available from Seppic under the trademark MONTANOV TM L), a polysaccharide-based emulsifier such as a xyloside-based emulsifier, e.g., octyldodecanol (and) octyldodecyl xyloside (commercially available from Seppic under the trademark FLUIDANO TM 20X), or a hydrophobically modified emulsifier, e.g., inulin lauryl carbamate (commercially available from Beneo Orafti under the brand name Inutec TM SP1).

[0122] In some embodiments, the at least one emulsifier comprises a mixture of at least two or more of the emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl isostearate, glycol stearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, steareth-20, and combinations thereof.

[0123] In some embodiments, the at least one emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl isostearate, glycol stearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, steareth-20, and combinations thereof.

[0124] In certain particular embodiments, the at least one emulsifier comprises one or a mixture of emulsifiers provided at concentrations as indicated which are selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside* (-1.2%), glyceryl isostearate (-0.5%), steareth-20 (-0.5%), and combinations thereof.

[0125] In certain particular embodiments, the at least one emulsifier comprises one or a mixture of emulsifiers provided at concentrations as indicated, which are selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside* (-1.2%), glyceryl isostearate (-0.5%), polyglyceryl-10 laurate (-1%), sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine* (-0.35%), and combinations thereof.

[0126] In certain particular embodiments, the at least one emulsifier comprises one or a mixture of emulsifiers provided at concentrations as indicated, which are selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside* (-1.2%), glyceryl isostearate (-0.5%), polyglyceryl-10 laurate (-1%), sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine* (-0.35%), and combinations thereof.

[0127] In certain particular embodiments, the at least one emulsifier comprises one or a mixture of emulsifiers provided at concentrations as indicated, which are selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside* (-1.2%), glyceryl isostearate (-0.5%), polyglyceryl-10 laurate (-1%), sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine* (-0.35%), and combinations thereof.

[0128] According to certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise an emulsion which comprises one or more oils (as described herein), alone or in combination, with one or more emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier is present in an amount of between about 15% and about 40% of the total amount of oils present in the cosmetic composition.

[0129] In some embodiments, the at least one emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl isostearate, glycol stearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, steareth-20, and combinations thereof, and the cosmetic composition comprises at least one oil selected from the group consisting of Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, dicaprylyl carbonate, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated lecithin, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, and combinations thereof.

[0130] More generally, in some embodiments, the at least one emulsifier or combination thereof is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the at least one emulsifier is present in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 3.5% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0131] In some embodiments, one or more emulsifiers, alone or in combination, may be present in the cosmetic composition, and in some embodiments, each emulsifier may be present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.5% to about 1.8%, from about 0.5 to about 1.25%, and from about 0.5 to about 0.8%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0132] Thus, an emulsifier or combination of emulsifiers may be present, by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition, each emulsifier or combination of emulsifiers being present in an amount of about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, up to about 15 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. OTHER INGREDIENTS

[0133] In accordance with the various embodiments, the cosmetic composition may further comprise additional ingredients, generally including, but not limited to, chelating agents, pH adjusters, skin actives, humectants, antioxidants, plant extracts, plant oils and butters, fragrances, pearlizing agents, odor absorbers, colorants, essential oils, vitamins, antimicrobials and preservatives, and combinations thereof. Non-limiting examples of some of these optional additional ingredients are provided below. Chelating agents

[0134] In some embodiments, one or more other components, such as chelating agents, may be present in the cosmetic composition in amounts of from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight, from about 0.02% to about 1.5% by weight, from about 0.02% to about 1%, from about 0.02% to about 0.5%, and from about 0.2% to about 0.4%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof, by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. In some exemplary embodiments, the chelating agents are selected from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate, sodium staminate, and combinations thereof.

[0135] Thus, one or a combination of chelating agents may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, each agent or combination being present from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 up to about 2 percent by weight, inclusive of intermediate increments and ranges. Charges

[0136] According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may comprise one or more fillers. The fillers may be of mineral or organic origin, naturally occurring or synthetic, to provide oil absorption or optical effects. The oil-absorbing fillers may impart a matte effect and a non-greasy feel to the skin. The optical effect fillers may impart a soft focus, blurring, or blurring effect to the skin, give the skin a more even appearance, reduce the appearance of skin imperfections or discolorations, or reduce the visibility of pores.

[0137] In certain particular embodiments according to the disclosure, when present, a filler may comprise boron nitride, a crosslinked methyl methacrylate polymer, or a combination thereof. In accordance with these embodiments, the boron nitride may be present at about 0.6% and the crosslinked methyl methacrylate polymer may be present at about %, all amounts being by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0138] Some examples of oil-absorbing fillers include: mica, zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, PTFE, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, modified potato starch, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, carbonate magnesium, hydrated silica, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, sodium carboxymethyl starch. In a preferred embodiment, the oil-absorbing filler comprises spherical microparticles of porous silica having an average particle size of 0.5 to 20 µm whose INCI name is silica sold by JCG Catalysts and Chemicals under the name Spheron L-1500. In another preferred embodiment, the oil-absorbing filler comprises hydrophobic aerogel particles whose INCI name is silica silylate sold by Dow Corning under the name VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles.

[0139] Some examples of optical effect fillers include: bismuth oxychloride, silica silylate, boron nitride, iron oxide, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate (and) iron oxides, sodium aluminum silicate.

[0140] Some examples of fillers that provide both oil absorption and optical effects include: silica, silica (and) methicone, silica (and) dimethicone, polysilicone-22, polysilicone-8, polysilicone-11, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, methylsilanol / silicate crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and styrene / acrylates copolymer.

[0141] The filler may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, at a concentration, or from about 0.01% to 25%, or from about 0.01% to 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to 0.4%, or from about 0.2% to 0.3%, or from about 0.5% to 5.0%, or from about 1.0% to 5.0%, or from about 1.2% to 3.5%, or from about 1.0% to 2.5%, or from about 1.5% to about 2%, or from about 1.0% to about 1.8%, or from about 2.2% to about 2.7% or from about 0.25% to about 0.4%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises more than one filler, each filler being present in an amount as defined above, each different filler being able to be present in one of the ranges selected from the ranges defined above.

[0142] Thus, each filler or combination of fillers, when present, may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of approximately 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11.0, 12.0, 13.0, 14.0, 15.0, 16.0, 17.0, 18.0, 19.0, 20.0, 21.0, 22.0, 23.0, 24.0 to about 25.0 weight percent, including intermediate increments and ranges. Phenylethyl resorcinol

[0143] According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include phenylethyl resorcinol.

[0144] Phenylethyl resorcinol is a tyrosinase inhibitor. Phenylethyl resorcinol, when used in cosmetic composition, effectively whitens the skin and reduces uneven skin tone. Phenylethyl resorcinol has not shown any adverse effects in basic toxicological tests, including acute oral toxicity, mutagenicity, skin irritation, skin sensitization, and phototoxicity.

[0145] In accordance with the various embodiments, when present, the amount of phenylethyl resorcinol present in the cosmetic composition is from about 0.2% to about 2.0%, or from about 0.2% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.4% to about 1.0%, or from about 0.6% to about 0.9%, or from about 0.7% to about 0.8%, or from about 0.2% to about 0.8%, is about 0.75%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention. In some embodiments, the amount of phenylethyl resorcinol present is no more than about 0.2% to about 0.8%.

[0146] Thus, phenylethyl resorcinol, when present in the cosmetic composition, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from about 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9 to about 2.0% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. Optional active ingredients and other ingredients

[0147] In some embodiments, one or more actives or other optional ingredients (hereinafter referred to as "additives") may be present in the cosmetic composition, the additive(s) being selected from the lists provided above, including any of them, and including, for example, but not limited to, humectants, such as acetamide MEA, glycols, such as glycerin and propylene glycol; antimicrobials;antioxidants, including, but not limited to, phenolic compounds, such as chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins, tannins, lignans, aurones, stilbenoids, curcuminoids, alkylphenols, betacyanins, capsacinoids, hydroxybenzoketones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones and terpene phenols, resveratrol, curcumin, pinoresinol, ferulic acid, hydroxytyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, baicalin (Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract), pine bark extract (extract of Pinus Pinaster bark / bud), ellagic acid; hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; aescin (also known as escin, a mixture of saponins; having anti-inflammatory, vasoconstrictor and vasoprotective effects found in Aesculus hippocastanumO; hydroxyacetophenone; and vitamins and vitamin derivatives, such as tocopherol and ascorbic acid; and combinations thereof.

[0148] In some embodiments, the additives may comprise an antimicrobial agent or a combination of antimicrobial agents and their salts, for example, including, but not limited to, the group consisting of chlorphenesin, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, caprylhydroxamic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, benzalkonium chloride, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, piroctone olamine, hexylglycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, octylglycerin, benzylglycerin, 3-heptoyl-2,2-propandiol and 1,2-hexandiol, and pentylene glycol, and combinations thereof.

[0149] In some embodiments, the additives may include one or a combination of skin actives, for example, including, but not limited to, the group consisting of tocopherol, phenoxyethanol, sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, phenylethyl resorcinol, hydroxyacetophenone, and combinations thereof.

[0150] In some embodiments, the additives may include one or a combination of skin actives selected from the group consisting of aescin, retinol, capryloyl salicylic acid, citric acid, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, and combinations thereof.

[0151] In some embodiments, the additives may include one or a combination of skin actives or other additives selected from the group consisting of mica (and) lauroyl lysine, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) magnesium silicate (and) tin oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide, titanium dioxide, capryloyl salicylic acid, citric acid, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, and combinations thereof.

[0152] In certain particular embodiments, the additive(s) are selected from fillers selected from the group consisting of mica (and) lauroyl lysine, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) magnesium silicate (and) tin oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide, titanium dioxide, and combinations thereof.

[0153] In certain particular embodiments, the additive(s) are selected from the group consisting of aescin, retinol, capryloyl salicylic acid, citric acid, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, pentaerythrityl tetra-hydroxyhydrocinnamate di-t-butyl, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, glycerin, titanium dioxide, cellulose, silica silylate, mica (and) lauroyl lysine, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) magnesium silicate (and) tin oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide, and combinations thereof.

[0154] In certain particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises one or a combination of fillers selected from the group consisting of mica (and) lauroyl lysine, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) magnesium silicate (and) tin oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide, titanium dioxide, cellulose, silica silylate, and one or more additives are selected from the group consisting of aescin, retinol, capryloyl salicylic acid, citric acid, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, and combinations thereof.

[0155] In certain particular embodiments, the at least one other additive / active comprises one or a mixture of other additives / actives provided at concentrations as indicated which are selected from the group consisting of aescin (-0.5%), retinol* (-1.5%), hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol* (-9%), pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (-0.5%), sodium hydroxide (-1.57%), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate* (-0.3%), chlorphenesin (-0.2%), phenoxyethanol (-0.6%), glycerin (-7%), and combinations thereof.

[0156] In certain particular embodiments, the other additive(s) / active(s) comprise one or a mixture of other additives / active(s) provided at concentrations as indicated which are selected from the group consisting of aescin (-0.3%), hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol* (-9%), pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (-0.5%), sodium hydroxide (-1.57%), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate* (-0.3%), titanium dioxide (-0.1%), cellulose (-0.3%), silica silylate (-0.3%), Mica (and) Lauroyl Lysine* (-0.7%), synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Magnesium Silicate (and) Tin Oxide* (-0.2%), Fluorphlogopite (And) Titanium Dioxide (And) Oxide Tin* (-0.4%), chlorphenesin (-0.2%), phenoxyethanol (-0.6%), glycerin (-10%), and their combinations.

[0157] In some particular embodiments, the at least one other additive / active comprises one or a mixture of other additives / actives provided in the concentrations as indicated which are selected from the group consisting of aescin (-0.3%), retinol* (-1%), hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol* (-9%), pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (-0.5%), sodium hydroxide (-1.57%), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate* (-0.3%), titanium dioxide (-0.1%), silylate silica (-0.3%), Mica (and) Lauroyl Lysine* (-0.5%), chlorphenesin (-0.2%), phenoxyethanol (-0.6%), glycerin (-10%), and combinations thereof.

[0158] In some particular embodiments, the at least one other additive / active comprises one or a mixture of other additives / actives provided at concentrations as indicated, which are selected from the group consisting of aescin (-0.3%), retinol* (-1.5%), hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol* (-9%), pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (-0.5%), sodium hydroxide (-1.57%), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate* (-0.3%), silica silylate (-0.3%), Mica (and) Lauroyl Lysine* (-1.0%), chlorphenesin (-0.2%), phenoxyethanol (-0.6%), glycerin (-10%), and combinations thereof.

[0159] In some embodiments, the additive(s) present in the cosmetic composition may include one or more other components, for example, including, but not limited to, the group consisting of penetrants, sequestering agents, fragrances, dispersants, ceramides, opacifiers, and combinations thereof. While the aforementioned optional components are given by way of example, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used.

[0160] In accordance with the various embodiments, the amounts of additives, e.g., actives and other components, present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 0.001% to about 50%, from about 0.5% to about 30%, from about 1.5% to about 20%, and from about 5% to about 15%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0161] In some embodiments, one or more additives, alone or in combination, may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 50% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.25% to about 1.5%, and from about 0.5% to about 1.25%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0162] In some embodiments, one or more other components, such as preservatives, vitamins, preservatives, and the like, alone or in combination, may be present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of from about 0.05% to about 50% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 25% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.25% to about 5%, and from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0163] Thus, one or a combination of additives may be present in the cosmetic composition, by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition, each additive or combination being present from about 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49 up to about 50 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges. EXAMPLE 1: Raw materials

[0164] The percentages of each ingredient, as may be exemplified in the following composition examples, are given as the amount of raw materials, wherein the raw materials may be present in an amount equal to the amount of active, or if the raw material has an active concentration that is less than 100%, then the cosmetic composition comprises the raw material that includes the active and a suitable solvent, wherein the active concentration in the raw material is provided below in Table 1. If a PM is not listed in the table, it should be presumed to have an active concentration that is essentially 100%.

[0165] [Tables 1] MP Active (and any % of solvent or co-ingredient) % of active in MP (all "approximately") Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (Sepimax Zen Tm, Seppic) Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 100 Xanthan Gum Xanthan Gum 100 Hectorite Hectorite 100 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate*. Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, the balance of solvent 37 Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol*. Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol / the balance of solvent Propylene Glycol 35 Dicaprylyl Carbonate*. Dicaprylyl Carbonate, the balance of solvent 99.5 Mica (and) Lauroyl Lysine*. Mica (and) Lauroyl Lysine, Solvent balance 96.5 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Magnesium Silicate (and) Tin Oxide*. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Magnesium Silicate (and) Tin Oxide, 27% Titanium Dioxide, 15% Magnesium Silicate, 0.5% Tin Oxide, Solvent balance.57.5 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide*. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide, 44% titanium dioxide, 0.7% tin oxide, balance solvent. 55.3 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside*. Cetearyl Alcohol; Cetearyl glucoside 80; 20 Dilauramidoglutamide Sodium Lysine Dilauramidoglutamide 27.3 . sodium*. Lysine, the balance of water and butylene glycol Retinol Retinol, the balance of soybean oil 10 EXAMPLE 2: Inventive compositions

[0166] [Tables2] Ingredient Range (amount of MP present, as a percentage of composition weight, all "approximately" ranges) CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID 0 - 0.2% CITRIC ACID 0-2% HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPY-RANTRIOL*. 5-12% PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE 0.2-1.5% SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0 - 2%; ~1.5% TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE* 0 - 1% TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0 - 0.5% COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX 0-2% DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 0 - 10% GLYCOL STEARATE 0-5% HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL 0-5% HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL 0-2% HYDROGENATED LECITHIN 0 - 20% ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 0 - 10% ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE 0 - 10% CELLULOSE 0 -0.5% HECTORITE 0.1 - 2% ; ~0.2 - 0.5% SILICA SILYLATE 0 - 1% MICA (and) LAUROYL LYSINE *. 0-2% SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MAGNESIUM SILICATE (and) TIN OXIDE 0 - 0.5% SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TIN OXIDE*. 0 - 0.5% POLYACRYLATE CROSSLINKED POLYMER-6 0.1 - 2%; -0.3 - 0.6% XANTHAN GUM 0.1 - 1%; -0.2 - 0.4% CHLORPHENESIN 0 - 0.5% PHENOXYETHANOL 0 - 1% GLYCERIN 0 - 15%; 5 - 12% CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE*. 0-3% GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE 0 - 1.5% POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE 0-2% DILAURAMIDOGLUTAMIDE SODIUM LYSINE* 0 - 1% STEARETH-20 0-2% AESCIN 0-2% ASCORBIC ACID 4 - 15%; 5 - 10% RETINOL* 0-3% WATER 10 - 95% / QS

[0167] *The active ingredient is present at less than 100% of the MP quantity.

[0168] Generally, the inventive embodiments of the cosmetic composition may comprise:

[0169] Inventive 1: hectorite (-0.25%), polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 (-0.5%), xanthan gum (-0.3%); ascorbic acid (-7%); an oil mixture comprising dicaprylyl carbonate*, glycol stearate, hydrogenated lecithin, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate (combined, -17.5%); an emulsifier mixture comprising cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside*, glyceryl isostearate, steareth-20 (combined, -2%); other additives / actives including aescin, retinol*, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol*, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate*, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, glycerin (combined, -22%); the remainder being water.

[0170] Inventive 2: hectorite (-0.5%), polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 (-0.5%), xanthan gum (-0.3%); ascorbic acid (-7%); an oil mixture comprising Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, glycol stearate, Helianthus annuus (sunflower), hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated lecithin, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate (combined, -15%); emulsifier blend comprising cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside*, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, sodium dilauramido-glutamide lysine* (combined, -3%); other additives / actives including aescin, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol*, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate*, titanium dioxide, cellulose, silica silylate, mica (and) lauroyl lysine*, synthetic fluorophlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) magnesium silicate (and) tin oxide*, synthetic fluorophlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide*, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, glycerin (combined, -16%); the balance being water.

[0171] Inventive 3: hectorite (-0.5%), polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 (-0.5%), xanthan gum (-0.3%); ascorbic acid (-7%); an oil blend comprising Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, glycol stearate, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated lecithin, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate (combined, -13%); a mixture of emulsifiers comprising cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside*, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, sodium dilauramido-glutamide lysine* (combined, -3.5%);other additives / actives including aescin, retinol*, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol*, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate*, titanium dioxide, silica silylate, mica (and) Lauroyl lysine*, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, glycerin (combined, -13.5%); the balance being water. ;

[0172] Inventive 4: hectorite (-0.5%), polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 (-0.5%), xanthan gum (-0.3%); ascorbic acid (-7%); an oil blend comprising Copemicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, dicaprylyl carbonate*, glycol stearate, hydrogenated lecithin, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate (combined, -18.5%); an emulsifier blend comprising cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside*, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine* (combined, -2.5%); other additives / actives including Aescin, Retinol*, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol*, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hydroxide, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate*, Silica Silylate, Mica (and) Lauroyl Lysine*, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin (combined, -24.5%); the balance being water.

[0173] The above represents some examples of embodiment; other embodiments are possible in accordance with the description presented above.

[0174] Process for preparing the inventive composition:

[0175] In the various embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is prepared by mixing the polymer components of the salt-stable polymer system of the aqueous phase, adding at least one acid, after which the mixture generally thickens appreciably, and correcting the pH to obtain a final pH in a range of about 4.5 to about 7.5, or more particularly about 4 to about 7, or more particularly about 5 to about 6, by the addition of a base such as sodium or potassium hydroxide.

[0176] EXAMPLE 3: Demonstration of emulsion stability

[0177] [Tables3] Test composition Test composition characteristics 2 weeks 60 C Stability Inventive 1 0.5% polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 + 0.3% xanthan gum + 0.5% hectorite Stable emulsion; no liquid accumulation, no phase separation. Comparative 1 (Inventive 1, combined amounts of polymers less than the inventive range) 0.1% polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 + 0.1% xanthan gum + 0.5% hectorite Separation of oil and water phases Comparative 2 (Inventive 1, clay excluded) 0.5% polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 + 0.3% xanthan gum + 0% hectorite Emulsion contraction, liquid accumulation Comparative 3 (Inventive 1, replacement of hectorite clay with Kaolin) 0.5% polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 + 0.3% xanthan gum + 0% hectorite +0.5% Kaolin Emulsion contraction, liquid accumulation Comparative 4 (Inventive 1,replacement of hectorite clay with stearalkonium hectorite) 0.5% polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 + 0.3% xanthan gum + 0% hectorite +0.5% stearalkonium hectorite Emulsion contraction, liquid accumulation Comparative 5 (Inventive 1, replacement of hectorite clay with magnesium aluminum silicate) 0.5% polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 + 0.3% xanthan gum + 0% hectorite +0.5% magnesium aluminum silicate Emulsion contraction, liquid accumulation Comparative 6 (Inventive 1, replacement of xanthan gum with sclerotium gum) 0.5% polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6 + 0% xanthan gum + 5% hectorite +0.3% gum Contraction of the emulsion, accumulation of liquid, sclerotium Comparative 7 (Inventive 1, replacement of xanthan gum with hydroxypropyl guar) 0.5% polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 + 0% xanthan gum + 5% hectorite + 0.3% hydroxypropyl guar Separation of oil and aqueous phases

[0178] The results demonstrate the unexpected criticality of the specific combination of polymers and the clay component present in the inventive ranges to resist phase separation, pilling and sloshing, and maintain a creamy emulsion texture.

[0179] The articles "a" and "an," as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically indicated. The article "the," "the," or "the" preceding singular or plural nouns or noun phrases denotes a specified feature or features and may have a singular or plural connotation depending on the context in which it is used. The adjective "any" means one, some, or all indiscriminately, regardless of quantity.

[0180]

[0207] “At least one” as used herein means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0181]

[0208] The transitional terms “comprising”, “consisting essentially of” and "consisting of," when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended form, define the scope of the claim with respect to additional elements or steps not recited in the claim, if any, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term "comprising" is intended to be inclusive or open-ended and does not exclude any additional element, method, step, or material not recited. The term "consisting of" excludes any element, step, or material other than those specified in the claim and, in the latter case, impurities customarily associated with the specified material(s). The term "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or materials and to those which do not materially affect the fundamental and novel feature(s) of the claimed invention.All materials and methods described herein may, in other embodiments, be more specifically defined by any of the transitional terms "comprising", "consisting essentially of", and "consisting of".

[0182] Other than in the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions preceded by the word "about" are to be understood as being modified in all cases to mean within 10% of the number indicated (for example, "about 10%" means 9% - 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% - 2.2%).

[0183] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated based on the total composition unless otherwise indicated. In general, unless expressly stated herein, "weight" or "amount" as used herein with respect to the percentage of an ingredient refers to the amount of raw material comprising the ingredient, where the raw material may be described herein as comprising less than and up to 100% of the ingredient's activity. Accordingly, the weight percentage of an active in a composition is represented as the amount of raw material containing the active that is used, and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active, where the final percentage of the active depends on the weight percentage of the active in the raw material.

[0184] All ranges and amounts given herein are intended to include sub-ranges and amounts using any disclosed point as a boundary. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%," "1% to 5%," "2% to 10%," and so on. All numbers, amounts, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term "about," whether or not expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "about 1% to 10%" is intended to have both its boundaries of 1% and 10% modified by the term "about." Furthermore, it is understood that when an amount of a component is given, it is intended to mean the amount of active ingredient, unless specifically stated otherwise.

[0185] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters defining the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​presented in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate embodiments of the present disclosure without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0186] Although the invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various modifications may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the invention. Furthermore, numerous modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation or subject matter to the teachings of the invention without departing from its essential scope. Accordingly, it is intended that the invention not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out this invention, but that the invention will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: an aqueous phase and an oily phase, the aqueous phase comprising: a salt, (i) a salt-stable polymer system comprising a polymer blend comprising a polymer of INCI nomenclature Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, xanthan gum, and one or more clays comprising hectorite, wherein the total amount of the polymer combination of Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 and xanthan gum present in the cosmetic composition is in a range of from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, (ii) at least one acidic skin active present in the form of a cosmetically acceptable acid comprising at least ascorbic acid, and (iii) from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,of one or more neutralizing agents to provide a pH in a range of about 4.5 to about 7.5, the salt including at least the one or more pH-correcting neutralizing agents, wherein the cosmetic composition resists phase separation, pilling and gelling, and provides a creamy texture.,

2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one skin active agent further comprises an acid selected from the group consisting of citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, azelaic acid, kojic acid, chlorogenic acid, ferulic acid, zinc PCA, gallic acid, hyaluronic acid and combinations thereof.

3. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the neutralizing agent is selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and combinations thereof.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the salt is present in the composition in an amount which is in a range of from about 0.1% to more than 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the total amount of the polymer combination of Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 and xanthan gum present in the cosmetic composition is not more than about 1.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, the oily phase comprising at least one oil, the composition further comprising at least one emulsifier, wherein the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of Co-pernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, dicaprylyl carbonate, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated lecithin, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, and combinations thereof, and wherein at least one emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl isostearate, glycol stearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, steareth-20, and combinations thereof, the composition further comprising one or more additives present either in the aqueous phase, or in the oily phase, chosen from the group consisting of capryloyl salicylic acid,citric acid, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, mica (and) lauroyl lysine, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) magnesium silicate (and) tin oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide, titanium dioxide, tocopherol, phenylethyl resorcinol, sodium hyaluronate, capryloyl salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, crosslinked polymer, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, and combinations thereof, and wherein the cosmetic composition optionally excludes one or all of the ingredients selected from the group consisting of gellan, acid stearic, vegetable butters above 5%, high levels of alcohols / saturated fatty acids above Cl6, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vp copolymer,hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and combinations thereof.,

7. Cosmetic composition in the form of a direct oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: an aqueous phase and an oily phase, the aqueous phase comprising a salt,

8. (i) a salt-stable polymer system that comprises a polymer of INCI nomenclature Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, present in a range of about 0.2% to about 1.2%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, xanthan gum, present in a range of about 0.1% to about 1.0%, by weight, wherein the total amount of the polymer combination of Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 and xanthan gum present in the cosmetic composition is in a range of about 0.5% to about 1.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and at least one clay selected from the group consisting of smectite, illite, chlorite, vermiculite, sodium smectite, calcium smectite, attapulgite, and combinations thereof, the clay further comprising hectorite, and present in a range of about 0.1% to about 2.0%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition,and (ii) one or more cosmetically acceptable acids comprising at least ascorbic acid, the total amount of cosmetically acceptable acid present in a range of from about 4% to about 15%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and (iii) from about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition of a neutralizing agent selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and combinations thereof, present to provide a pH in a range of from about 4.5 to about 7.5, wherein the cosmetic composition resists phase separation, pilling and gelling, and imparts a creamy texture;, the salt including at least the neutralizing pH correction agent(s); and the oily phase comprising at least one oil, the composition further comprising at least one emulsifier. The cosmetic composition of claim 7, wherein the at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of Co-pernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, dicaprylyl carbonate, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated lecithin, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, and combinations thereof, and wherein the at least one emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl isostearate, glycol stearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium, steareth-20, and combinations thereof, and wherein the cosmetically acceptable acid further comprises an acid selected from the group consisting of an alpha hydroxy acid, a beta hydroxy acid, and combinations thereof, and wherein the salt is present in the composition in an amount that is in a range of about 0.1% to greater than 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The cosmetic composition of claim 7 or 8, wherein the total amount of the polymer combination of Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 and xanthan gum present in the cosmetic composition is not more than about 1.5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the composition optionally further comprising one or more additives present in either the aqueous phase or the oily phase, selected from the group consisting of capryloyl salicylic acid, citric acid, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, sodium hydroxide, trisodium ethylenediamine di-succinate, mica (and) lauroyl lysine, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) magnesium silicate (and) tin oxide, synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) tin oxide, titanium dioxide, tocopherol, phenylethyl resorcinol, sodium hyaluronate,capryloyl salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, crosslinked polymer, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, and combinations thereof, and wherein the cosmetic composition optionally excludes one or all ingredients selected from the group consisting of gellan, stearic acid, vegetable butters above 5%, high levels of alcohols / saturated fatty acids above Cl6, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vp copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and combinations thereof.,

10. A method of forming a salt-stable direct emulsion cosmetic composition according to any preceding claim, the method comprising mixing the polymers, adding at least one cosmetically acceptable acid, whereupon the mixture typically thickens appreciably, and correcting the pH to achieve a final pH in a range of about 4.5 to about 7.5 by adding one or more neutralizing agents.