Mineral photoprotective compositions with high SPF and durability
A photoprotective composition with mineral UV filters, acrylic thickeners, and non-ionic surfactants addresses instability issues in mineral-based sunscreens, ensuring long-term stability and high SPF.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021013459
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-14
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-11
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-14
AI Technical Summary
Existing mineral-based sunscreens with high levels of UV filters face instability and poor emulsion structural stability, posing challenges in maintaining high SPF and aesthetic appearance.
A photoprotective composition comprising mineral UV filters, oil-based acrylic thickeners, and non-ionic surfactants such as polyethylene glycol ethers and esters of fatty acids, providing stable emulsion structural stability and high SPF.
The composition achieves emulsion stability for up to 12 weeks at room temperature and maintains high SPF, enabling commercial-scale production without phase separation, with an SPF of 30 to 55.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Mineral photoprotective compositions with high SPF and lifetime Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to photoprotective compositions and methods of using the photoprotective compositions to protect keratin substrates such as skin and hair from UV radiation. Context
[0002] The negative effects of exposure to ultraviolet (“UV”) light are well known. Prolonged exposure to sunlight causes damage such as sunburn to the skin and dries out hair, making it brittle. When the skin is exposed to UV light having a wavelength of about 290 nm to about 400 nm, long-term damage can lead to serious conditions such as skin cancer.
[0003] UV light also contributes to aging by causing the formation of free radicals in the skin. Free radicals include, for example, singlet oxygen, hydroxyl radical, superoxide dismutase, nitric oxide, and hydrogen radicals. Free radicals attack DNA, membrane lipids, and proteins, generating carbon radicals. These, in turn, react with oxygen to produce a peroxyl radical, which can attack adjacent fatty acids to generate new carbon radicals. This cascade leads to a chain reaction producing lipid peroxidation products. Damage to the cell membrane results in a loss of cellular permeability, an increase in intercellular ion concentration, and a decreased ability to excrete or detoxify waste. The end result is a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles.This process is commonly referred to as photoaging.
[0004] Sunscreens can be used to protect against UV damage and delay the signs of photoaging. The degree of UV protection provided by a photoprotective composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters it contains. The greater the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection (UVA / UVB). Consumers prefer photoprotective compositions to contain natural, non-irritating components that appear natural (imperceptible) once applied. It is recognized that providing mineral-based sunscreen products with a high sun protection factor (SPF) with a long shelf life and capable of maintaining the benefit of the SPF poses challenges.
[0005] The inventors of the present invention have formulated a mineral-based sunscreen that unexpectedly exhibits high SPF and high emulsion structural stability in the presence of significant amounts of mineral-based sunscreens that also provide good aesthetic appearance. Summary
[0006] The present invention relates to a photoprotective composition that comprises mineral UV-filtering agents, which are known to be non-irritating, natural and gentle to the skin, as well as oil-based acrylic thickeners and non-ionic surfactants that provide stable sun protection and emulsion structural stability in the presence of high amounts of mineral UV filters. The photoprotective composition addresses challenges known in the art in which high levels of mineral UV filters have been found to be unstable, as described in more detail herein. The photoprotective composition may optionally comprise organic UV filters.
[0007] In various embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises nonionic surfactants that are selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acids or polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids to provide a composition that can, unexpectedly, be prepared on a commercial scale and that demonstrates structural stability of the SPI and emulsion that exceeds what has been observed with similar compositions that include mineral sunscreens and lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickeners without the selected surfactants. The photoprotective composition has an in vivo tested SPI value of 50 or greater.
[0008] The composition according to the invention relates to a photoprotective composition comprising an oil-in-water emulsion of aqueous and oily phases, comprising:
[0009] i. at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener,
[0010] ii. at least one mineral anti-UV filter;
[0011] iii. at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, and combinations thereof
[0012] wherein the composition has an SPI in a range of 30 to 55 and exhibits phase stability and processability.
[0013] In particular, the at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener comprises a C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymer.
[0014] In particular, the at least one nonionic surfactant comprises steareth-2, steareth-20 or a combination thereof.
[0015] In particular, the at least one mineral UV filter comprises zinc oxide, a zinc oxide derivative, titanium dioxide, a titanium dioxide derivative or combinations thereof.
[0016] In particular, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more non-mineral anti-UV filters chosen from organic anti-UV filters.
[0017] In particular, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more organic UV filters comprising homosalate, octisalate and octocrylene, more particularly, wherein the UV filter comprises zinc oxide, present in an amount ranging from 5% to 10%, and wherein homosalate is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 15%, octisalate is present in an amount in a range from 1% to 7% and octocrylene is present in an amount in a range from 7% to 15%, each by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition.
[0018] In particular, the photoprotective composition according to the invention further comprises one or a combination of additives selected from the group consisting of solvents, SPI enhancers, humectants, skin care actives, oils, waxes, thickeners, preservatives, pH adjusters, chelating agents, viscosity adjusters, cooling agents, fillers, perfumes, colorants, pigments and combinations thereof.
[0019] In particular, the photoprotective composition exhibits emulsion structural stability wherein the photoprotective composition does not exhibit signs of phase separation and does not lose its homogeneity after up to 12 weeks at room temperature in the range of 25°C up to and including 45°C and maintains processability wherein the photoprotective composition can be produced on a commercial scale characterized by a production volume of at least 15 kilograms without loss of emulsion structural stability, and wherein the photoprotective composition exhibits an SPI (in vivo) in a range of 30 to 55.
[0020] The invention also relates to a photoprotective composition comprising an oil-in-water emulsion of aqueous and oily phases, comprising:
[0021] i. at least one or more lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickeners, present at 1.8%;
[0022] ii. at least one mineral anti-UV filter, present at 7%
[0023] iii. at least one or more nonionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids and combinations thereof, present in a total amount of 2%;
[0024] iv. at least one or more organic anti-UV filters, present at a total of 18% and
[0025] v. one or a combination of ingredients selected from the group consisting of solvents, SPI enhancers, humectants, skin care actives, oils, waxes, thickeners, preservatives, pH adjusters, chelating agents, temperature adjusters viscosity, cooling agents, fillers, perfumes, colorants, pigments and combinations thereof.
[0026] The invention describes a photoprotective composition which comprises: a water-in-oil emulsion of the aqueous and oily phases, comprising the following elements: i. at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener, ii. at least one mineral UV filter; iii. at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, and combinations thereof
[0027] wherein the formula has an SPI in a range of about 30 to about 55 and exhibits phase stability and processability.
[0028] In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises one or more non-mineral UV filters, selected organic UV filters.
[0029] In certain described embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises: a water-in-oil emulsion of the aqueous and oily phases, comprising the following elements: i. at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener, present from about 0.5% to about 5%; ii. at least one mineral UV filter, present from about 1% to about 25% and iii. at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, and combinations thereof, present from at least about 0.1% to about 5%,
[0030] where the components are present by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition.
[0031] In certain described embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises: a water-in-oil emulsion of the aqueous and oily phases, comprising the following elements: i. at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener, present from about 0.75% to about 3%; ii. at least one mineral UV filter, present from about 5% to about 15% and iii. at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, and combinations thereof, present from at least about 0.2% to about 3%,
[0032] where the components are present by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition.
[0033] In certain described embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises: a water-in-oil emulsion of the aqueous and oily phases, comprising the following elements: i. at least one or more lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickeners, present at about 1.8%; ii. at least one mineral UV filter, present at approximately 7%; iii. at least one or more non-ionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids and combinations thereof, present in a total amount of approximately 2%; iv. at least one or more organic UV filters, present at a total level of approximately 18% and v. one or a combination of solvents,
[0034] where the components are present by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition.
[0035] In certain described embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises: a water-in-oil emulsion of the aqueous and oily phases, comprising the following elements: i. at least one or more lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickeners comprising a C12-22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer; i. at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of zinc oxide, a zinc oxide derivative, titanium dioxide, a titanium dioxide derivative and combinations thereof; ii. at least one or more non-ionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-20 and combinations thereof; iii. at least one or more organic UV filters selected from the group consisting of homosalate, octisalate and octocrylene and combinations thereof and iv. one or a combination of additives selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propanediol, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, butyloctyl salicylate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, isopropyl palmitate, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, hydroxyacetophenone, citric acid, coco caprylate / caprate, oryza sativa wax, candelilla wax, sunflower seed wax, carnauba wax, polyhydroxystearic acid, xanthan gum, chlorphenesin and combinations thereof.
[0036] In some embodiments, the at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener comprises an intercalator polymer. In some embodiments, the at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener comprises a C12-C22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer.
[0037] In some embodiments, the at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids comprises steareth-2, steareth-20 or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids comprises steareth-2 and steareth-20.
[0038] In some embodiments, the at least one mineral UV filter comprises zinc oxide, a zinc oxide derivative, titanium dioxide, a titanium dioxide derivative, or combinations thereof.
[0039] In the various embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises one or a combination of organic UV filters and one or a combination of inorganic / mineral UV filters. In certain particular embodiments, the inorganic / mineral UV filters comprise zinc oxide and the optional organic UV filters each comprise homosalate, octisalate and octocrylene.
[0040] In some embodiments of the photoprotective composition that includes organic UV filters, the combination of organic and inorganic / mineral UV filters is present in the photoprotective composition in a total amount ranging from about 15% to about 45% or from about 20% to about 25% based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition.
[0041] In some embodiments of the photoprotective composition, the combination of organic and inorganic / mineral UV filters comprises zinc oxide present in an amount ranging from about 5% to about 10%, and a mixture of organic UV filters comprising homosalate present in an amount in the range of about 5% to about 15%, octisalate present in an amount in the range of about 1% to about 7%, and octocrylene present in an amount in the range of about 7% to about 15%, each present by weight based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition.
[0042] In some embodiments, the aqueous phase components and the oil phase components, respectively, are present in the photoprotective composition at a weight ratio of aqueous components to oil components in a range of about >1:1. In some embodiments, a phase ratio of aqueous phase to non-aqueous phase is calculated based on the total weight of the components of the aqueous phase relative to the weight of the non-aqueous components of the oily phase.
[0043] In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition also comprises one or more SPI enhancers, one or more sensory fatty compounds or feel-modifying powders, or one or more active ingredients.
[0044] In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition further comprises one or a combination of additives selected from the group consisting of solvents, SPI enhancers, humectants, waxes, skin care actives, oils, thickeners, preservatives, pH adjusters, chelating agents, viscosity adjusters, cooling agents, fillers, fragrances, colorants, pigments, and combinations thereof.
[0045] In one or more particular embodiments, the photoprotective compositions further comprise one or a combination of additives selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propanediol, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, butyloctyl salicylate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, isopropyl palmitate, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, hydroxyacetophenone, citric acid, coco caprylate / caprate, oryza sativa wax, candelilla wax, sunflower seed wax, carnauba wax, polyhydroxystearic acid, xanthan gum, chlorphenesin and combinations thereof.
[0046] In the various embodiments, the photoprotective composition exhibits emulsion structural stability wherein the photoprotective composition does not exhibit signs of phase separation, and / or does not lose homogeneity after up to 12 weeks at room temperature in the range of about 25°C up to and including about 45°C, and maintains processability wherein the photoprotective composition can be produced on a commercial scale characterized by a production volume of at least 15 kilograms without loss of emulsion structural stability. In the various embodiments, the photoprotective composition displays an SPI (in vivo) in a range of about 30 to about 55. In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition has an SPI of about 30, or about 45, or about 50.
[0047] In various embodiments, the photoprotective composition may exclude one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of geminal surfactants, anionic gelling agents, Aristoflex polymers, pigments, iron oxides, and combinations thereof.
[0048] The present invention also relates to methods of protecting skin from UV radiation comprising applying to the skin an effective amount of the photoprotective composition disclosed herein. Detailed description of the invention
[0049] When the following terms are used in this specification, they are used as defined below.
[0050] The term "Active Ingredient", as used herein with respect to the percentage of an ingredient or raw material, refers, unless otherwise indicated, to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.
[0051] The terms "aqueous phase" and "water phase" refer to water, water-soluble, water-miscible, and water-dispersible ingredients and represent the sum total of all ingredients of the composition that are water-soluble or water-dispersible, and that are combined together with water in preparing the exemplary emulsion compositions.
[0052] “Cosmetically acceptable” means that the article in question is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair. For example, “cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.
[0053] The term "homogeneous" means, with reference to the composition, having an essentially uniform visual appearance, that is to say that visually there is no separation and accumulation of the fluid.
[0054] The term “keratinous tissue” includes, in particular, skin, hair and nails.
[0055] The term "mineral UV filtering agent" is interchangeable with the terms "mineral UV filtering agent", "inorganic UV filtering agent", "inorganic UV filtering agent", "mineral UV filter" and "inorganic UV filter". Mineral UV filtering agents are compounds that do not include carbon atoms in their chemical structures and are capable of filtering, scattering or absorbing UV radiation between 280 and 400 nm.
[0056] The term "oil thickener" designates any raw material which, associated with the oily phase of the emulsion, causes a thickening action on said oily phase.
[0057] The term "polymers" as defined herein includes homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers.
[0058] The term "processability" refers to the demonstrated ability of the photoprotective composition to be produced on a commercial scale, characterized by a production volume of at least 15 kg, wherein the photoprotective composition maintains the structural stability of the emulsion as defined herein to provide a generally homogeneous usable formula that maintains the structural stability of the emulsion.
[0059] The term "IPS enhancer" refers to a material that increases the UV absorption of another material when the two are mixed in a composition by refracting the UV radiation, thereby increasing the effective wavelength of UV radiation through the photoprotective composition.
[0060] The term "structural stability of the emulsion" refers to the structural stability of the oil-in-water emulsion and means that the photoprotective composition exhibits a good aesthetic appearance initially, including the absence of a granular texture, the absence of crystal formation, maintains a coherent microscopic structure, and exhibits no visually perceptible phase separation, appreciable fluid accumulation, or droplet formation. In addition, the photoprotective composition retains the structural stability of the emulsion as described above and maintains a consistent color, odor, and viscosity during prolonged storage, including storage for up to 12 weeks, particularly after exposure to room temperature of about 25°C and up to about 45°C.For example, a photoprotective composition is considered to demonstrate stability of the emulsion structure if the photoprotective composition does not exhibit signs of phase separation and / or lose its homogeneity after up to 12 weeks at room temperature between about 25°C and up to about 45°C.
[0061] The term "substantially free of" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may comprise less than about 1% by weight, less than about 0.5% by weight, less than about 0.1% by weight, less than 0.01% by weight, or none of the specified materials.
[0062] The term "sun protection factor" or SPF is a value expressed mathematically by the ratio of the irradiation time required to reach the erythemogenic threshold with the UV-blocking agent to the time required to reach the erythemogenic threshold without the UV-blocking agent. The SPF generally provides information about the skin's resistance to ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation emitted by the sun. The SPF rating system was developed to provide consumer guidance on sunscreen selection. The photoprotective composition of the present invention may be formulated to achieve a variety of different SPFs. For example, the photoprotective composition may have an in vivo SPF of at least 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, or 55 or higher (or in a range between any two of these values).As demonstrated herein, in some embodiments, the photoprotective composition has an SPF that is at least 50 or greater, measured as defined by the FDA 2011 SPF Test Method and / or on a test subject.
[0063] The term “water-in-oil emulsion” or “W / O emulsion” comprises a water phase dispersed in an oil phase, the oil phase being a continuous phase.
[0064] The present invention relates to a photoprotective composition and embodiments thereof which provide a high degree of sun protection, structural stability and emulsion processability, the photoprotective composition comprising mineral UV filters with or without non-mineral UV filters and oil-based acrylic thickeners and surfactants selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acids and polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids in oil-in-water emulsion form.
[0065] It is known that it is possible to provide stable and high-performance photoprotective compositions that include a lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener and non-mineral UV filters, however, the inventors have shown that when mineral UV filters are added, the compositions have not resulted in stable, high-performance compositions, particularly when high levels of mineral UV filters have been incorporated.
[0066] The inventors have proposed a composition which unexpectedly provides a stable, processable photoprotective composition with a high SPF which comprises mineral UV filters with or without non-mineral UV filters using oil-based acrylic thickeners and non-ionic surfactants selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acids and polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids.
[0067] As illustrated below, the inventors have shown that the photoprotective composition which comprises mineral UV filters with or without non-mineral UV filters and oil-based acrylic thickeners which are otherwise unstable and / or have lower sun protection can be made stable and processable at commercial production volumes by incorporating non-ionic surfactants selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acids and polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids. The photoprotective composition exhibits processability which contrasts with compositions which include the same content of mineral and organic UV filters as the photoprotective composition but do not include a non-ionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids and combinations thereof.As shown in the examples herein, such compositions which include mineral-based UV filters cannot be processed at a production volume of about 15 kilograms or more. Lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener
[0068] In various embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener. According to one embodiment more particularly of the present invention, the at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener is derived from a crystallizable chain monomer chosen from saturated C14 to C22 alkyl (meth)acrylates and even more particularly poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate).
[0069] As a particular example of a lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener that can be used in the phytoprotective composition according to the invention, mention may be made of polymers with the INCI name “Poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylate”, such as the Intelimer (TM) products from the company Air Products, for example the Intelimer H4 product. Other examples include the Intelimer (TM) IPA 13-1 product, or the Intelimer (TM) IPA 13-6 product.More generally, the lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener may be a polymer as disclosed in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. US20070264204, which discloses a wide range of side-chain functionalized crystalline (SCC) polymers that may be used to thicken oils, provided that the SCC polymer will dissolve in the oil at a temperature above the crystalline melting point of the polymer (referred to herein as Tp) and may crystallize when the solution of the polymer in the oil is cooled to a temperature below Tp and at which the oil composition is to be used.
[0070] In certain particular embodiments, the at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener comprises a C12-C22 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer.
[0071] Each of the at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener is present in the photoprotective composition at a concentration of about 0.5% to about 5%, in some embodiments about 0.75% to 3%, and in some embodiments about 1% to 2% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition. Accordingly, in various embodiments, a lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener is present in the photoprotective composition in a weight percent amount of 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, to 5.0 weight percent, inclusive of increments therebetween. Non-ionic surfactant
[0072] In various embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acids, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids or combinations thereof.
[0073] In some embodiments, the at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids comprises steareth-2, steareth-20, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol ethers, polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids comprises steareth-2, steareth-20, or a combination thereof. Polyethylene glycol fatty acids comprise steareth-2 and steareth-20. In some embodiments, steareth-2 is present from about 0.2% to about 0.6%, or from about 0.4% to about 0.5%, and steareth-20 is present from about 1.2% to about 1.6%, or from about 0.8% to about 1.5%, all amounts by weight relative to the total weight of the photoprotective composition.
[0074] Each of the at least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acids or polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids is present in the photoprotective composition at a concentration of about 0.1% to about 5%, in some embodiments about 0.2% to 3%, and in some embodiments about 1.5% to 2.5% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition. Thus, in various embodiments, a nonionic surfactant selected from polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acids or polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids is present in the photoprotective composition in an amount of 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, to 5.0 weight percent, inclusive of increments therebetween. Anti-UV filters
[0075] In accordance with the various embodiments, the photoprotective composition according to the invention comprises at least one mineral / inorganic base. In various embodiments, the photoprotective composition may also comprise one or more organic anti-UV filters. The organic anti-UV filters, when present, are generally present in the oily phase of the emulsion.
[0076] In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises zinc oxide and may optionally comprise one or a combination of organic UV filters selected from homosalate, octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), octocrylene and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises each of the following: octisalate, homosalate, octocrylene in addition to the inorganic / mineral based UV filter.
[0077] In certain particular embodiments, the photoprotective composition excludes, or is free or devoid of organic anti-UV filters. In certain particular embodiments, the photoprotective composition excludes, or is free or devoid of organic anti-UV filters selected from organic anti-UV filters of oxybenzone and octinoxate.
[0078] In some embodiments, the at least one mineral UV filtering agent is selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one mineral UV filter comprises zinc oxide, a zinc oxide derivative, titanium dioxide, a titanium dioxide derivative, or combinations thereof.
[0079] In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises one or a combination of organic UV filters and one or a combination of inorganic / mineral UV filters. In some particular embodiments, the inorganic / mineral UV filters comprise zinc oxide and the optional organic UV filters comprise homosalate, octisalate and octocrylene.
[0080] In some embodiments of the photoprotective composition, the inorganic / mineral UV filter is present in an amount in a range of about 1% to about 25%, or about 5% to about 15%, or about 5% to about 15%, or 6.5% to about 7.5%, each present by weight based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition. Accordingly, an inorganic / mineral UV filter may be present in the photoprotective composition, by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition, from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 20,21,22, 23, 24, to about 25 percent by weight, inclusive of increments and ranges therein and therebetween.
[0081] In some embodiments of the photoprotective composition, the combination of organic and inorganic / mineral UV filters comprises zinc oxide present in an amount ranging from about 5% to about 10%, and a mixture of organic UV filters comprising homosalate present in an amount in the range of about 5% to about 15%, octisalate present in an amount in the range of about 1% to about 7%, and octocrylene present in an amount in the range of about 7% to about 15%, each present by weight based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition. Therefore, an organic UV filter may be present in the photoprotective composition, by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition, from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent by weight, inclusive of increments and ranges therein and therebetween.
[0082] In some embodiments of the photoprotective composition that includes organic UV filters, the combination of organic and inorganic / mineral UV filters is present in the photoprotective composition in a total amount ranging from about 15% to about 45% or from about 20% to about 25% based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition.
[0083] Accordingly, when the organic UV filters are present, the combination of UV filters present, by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition, ranges from about 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44 to about 45 weight percent, inclusive of and between increments and ranges. Inorganic / mineral UV filters
[0084] In various embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises one or a combination of inorganic UV filters. The inorganic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The inorganic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic. The inorganic UV filter is, in certain embodiments, insoluble in solvents, such as water and ethanol frequently used in cosmetics.
[0085] The inorganic UV filter may be in the form of a fine particle such that the average (primary) diameter thereof is between 1 nm and 50 nm, in some embodiments between 5 nm and 40 nm, and in some embodiments between 10 nm and 30 nm. The average (primary) particle size or average (primary) particle diameter, herein, is an arithmetic mean diameter. In some embodiments, a particle may have a diameter that has an average particle size that is close to or less than about 1 micron, or is close to or less than about 200 nm, or is close to or less than about 100 nm (sometimes referred to as the nanoscale).One skilled in the art will understand that a particle referred to as being in the nanoscale for the purpose of cosmetic applications, including the photoprotective composition of the present invention, will, unless otherwise indicated, have an average particle size that is less than about 100 nm, for example, as in the case of nano zinc oxide which is sometimes referred to as being in the nanoscale even though the UV agent has an average primary particle size that is less than 200 nm.
[0086] The inorganic UV filter may be selected from the group consisting of silicone carbide, metal oxides which may or may not be coated and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments the inorganic UV filters are selected from pigments formed from metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed from titanium oxide (amorphous or crystalline, in the form of rutile and / or anatase), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, all of which are UV photoprotective agents which are well known per se.
[0087] The inorganic UV filter may or may not be coated. The inorganic UV filter may have one or more coatings. The coating may comprise one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes, such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters and (per)fluorinated compounds. In some embodiments, it is desirable that the coating includes an organic UV filter or a combination of organic UV filters.
[0088] Of course, the inorganic UV filters made from metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with compounds of cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum, silicone compounds or mixtures thereof. The coated inorganic UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with any of the compounds as described above, as well as polyethylenes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate and such as those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pages 53-64.
[0089] The coated inorganic UV filters may be titanium oxides coated: with silica, such as the product "Sun veil" from Ikeda and "Sunsil TIN 50" from Sunjin Chemical; with silica and iron oxide, such as the product "Sunveil F" from Ikeda; with silica and with alumina, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA" from Tayca, "Tioveil" from Tioxide and "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia; with alumina, such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (B)" and "Tipaque TTO-55 (A)" from Ishihara and "UVT 14 / 4" from Kemira; with alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01” from Tayca, the products “Solaveil CT-10 W” and “Solaveil CT 100” from Uniqema and the product “Eusolex T-AVO” from Merck; with alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S” from Tayca;with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product “Micro titanium Dioxide MT 100 F” from Tayca; with zinc oxide and with zinc stearate, such as the product “BR351” from Tayca; with silica and with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS”, “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS” and “Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS” from Tayca; with silica, with alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product “STT-30-DS” from Titan Kogyo; with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product “UV-Titan X 195” from Kemira; with alumina and treated with silicone, such as the products “Tipaque TTO-55 (S)” from Ishihara or “UV Titan M 262” from Kemira; with triethanolamine, such as the product “STT-65-S” from Titan Kogyo;with stearic acid, such as Ishihara's "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)" product or with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as Tayca's "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W" product. Other silicone-treated titanium oxide pigments are, and in some embodiments, TiO2 treated with; octyltrimethylsilane and for which the average size of the individual particles is from 25 to 40 nm, as marketed under the name “T 805” by Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the average size of the individual particles is 21 nm, as marketed under the brand name “70250 Cardre UF TiO2Si3” by Cardre, and anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the average size of the individual particles is 25 nm, as marketed under the brand name “Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobie” by Color Techniques.
[0090] And, in some embodiments, the following coated TiO2 may be used as a coated inorganic UV filter: Stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's "MT-100 TV" product, with a primary average particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Miyoshi Kasei's "S A-TTO-S4" product, with a primary average particle diameter of 15 nm; Silica (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's "MT-100 WP" product, with a primary average particle diameter of 15 nm; dimethicone (and) silica (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Tayca's product "MT-Y02" and "MT-Y-110 M3S", with a primary average particle diameter of 10 nm; dimethicone (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as Miyoshi Kasei's product "SA-TTO-S3", with a primary average particle diameter of 15 nm;dimethicone (and) alumina (and) TiO2, such as the product "UV TITAN Ml 70" from Sachtleben, with a primary average particle diameter of 15 nm and silica (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) alginic acid (and) TiO2, such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from Tayca, with a primary average particle diameter of 15 nm. In terms of UV filtering capabilities, TiO2 coated with at least one organic UV filter or a combination of organic UV filters is more desirable. For example, avobenzone (and) stearic acid (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product "HXMT-100ZA" from Tayca, with a primary average particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used. ;
[0091] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the names “Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B” or “Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B”, by Degussa under the name “P 25”, by Wacker under the name “Transparent Titanium Oxide PW”, by Miyoshi Kasei under the name “UFTR”, by Tomen under the name “ITS” and by Tioxide under the name “Tioveil AQ”. Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the name “Z-cote” by Sunsmart; those marketed under the name “Nanox” by Elementis and those marketed under the name “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies. Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the name “Oxide Zinc CS-5” by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate); those marketed under the name “Daitopersion Zn-30” and “Daitopersion Zn-50” by Daito (dispersions in polydimethylsiloxane / oxyethylenated cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% nano-zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the name “NFD Ultrafine ZnO” by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl, as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the name “SPD-Z1” by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);those marketed under the name “Escalol Z100” by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene / methicone copolymer); those marketed under the name “Fuji ZnO-SMS-10” by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane) and those marketed under the name “Nanox Gel TN” by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with polyhydroxystearic acid condensate). Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are marketed, for example, under the name “Colloidal Cerium Oxide” by Rhone-Poulenc.;
[0092] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the names "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ", "Nanogard FE 45R AQ" and "Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)" or by Mitsubishi under the name "TY-220". Coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the brands "Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "Nanogard FE 45 BL 345" and "Nanogard FE 45 BL" or by BASF under the brand "Transparent Iron Oxide". Organic UV filters optional
[0093] In various embodiments, the photoprotective composition may include an organic UV filter or a combination of organic UV filters. The organic UV filters may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic. The organic UV filter may be solid or liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" refer to solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.
[0094] The organic UV filter may be selected from the group comprising anthranilic compounds: dibenzoylmethane compounds; compounds cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; ÿ,ÿ-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds, benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PA B A) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; α-alkylstyrene-derived dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadienes; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and its derivatives; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and its derivatives, quinic acid and its derivatives; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue and mixtures thereof.
[0095] Mention should be made, as an example of organic anti-UV filter(s), of those listed below under their INCI names, and mixtures thereof. Anthranilic compounds: menthyl anthranilate, as marketed under the name “Neo Heliopan MA” by Haarmann and Reimer. Dibenzoylmethane compounds: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the name “Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann-La Roche and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic compounds: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, as marketed in particular under the name “Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, as marketed under the name “Neo Heliopan E 1000” by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-2ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.Salicylic compounds: homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), as marketed under the name “Eusolex HMS” by Rona / EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the name “Neo Heliopan OS” by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, marketed under the name “Dipsal” by Scher and TEA salicylate, marketed under the name “Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmann and Reimer.Camphor compounds, including benzylidene camphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, as manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; benzalkonium camphor methosulfate, manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor as manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex. Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), as marketed under the name “Uvinul 400” by BASF; Benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), as marketed under the name “Uvinul D50” by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, as marketed under the name “Uvinul M40” by BASF; Benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), marketed under the name “Uvinul MS40” by BASF; Benzophenone-5 (hydroxymethoxy benzophenone sodium sulfonate); Benzophenone-6 (benzophenone dihydroxy dimethoxy); marketed under the name “Helisorb 11” by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed under the name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the name “Uvinul DS-49” by BASF and Benzophenone-12 and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (such as UVINUL A+ from BASF), ÿ,ÿ-Diphenylacrylate compounds: Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the name “Uvinul N539” by BASF and Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the name “Uvinul N35” by BASF. Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the name “Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, marketed under the name "TINOSORB S" by CIBA GEIGY and ethylhexyl triazone marketed under the name "UVTNUL T150" by BASF. Benzotriazole compounds, in particular, derivatives of phenylbenzotriazole: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear and those described in USP 5240975.Benzalmalonate compounds: dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate and polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, as marketed under the name "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche. Benzimidazole compounds, including phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, marketed in particular under the name "Eusolex 232" by Merck and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer. Rimidazoline compounds: ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate. Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and in US Patent No. 2,463,264. Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the name "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the name "Uvinul P25" by BASF. Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2- yl)-4-methyl-phenol], marketed in solid form under the name “Mixxim BB / 200” by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], as marketed in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the name “Tinosorb M” by BASF or under the name “Mixxim BB / 100” by Fairmount Chemical, and derivatives as described in US Patent Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26,184, and EP-893,119 and Drometrizole trisiloxane, marketed under the name “Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie or “Mexoryl XL” by L'Oréal. Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, marketed under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V. Screening polymers and screening silicones: the silicones described in WO 93 / 04665. Dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene: the dimers described in DE-19855649.4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds: 1,1-Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
[0096] In some embodiments the organic UV filter(s) may be selected from the group consisting of: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, l,r-(l,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, phenol dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate disodium dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3 - { 1,3,3,3 -tetramethyl- 1 - [(trimethylsilyloxy] - disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(tert-phenyl)-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis[5-l (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, benzylkonium camphor methosulfate and mixtures thereof. Water
[0097] According to the various embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises water.
[0098] In various embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises from about 40 to about 75% water, and in some embodiments from about 45 to about 60% water, including increments and all ranges and sub- ranges within and between these values, by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention. Thus, water is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition, from about 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74 to about 75 percent by weight, inclusive of increments and all ranges and sub-ranges within and between these values.
[0099] The water used in the photoprotective composition may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, corn water, chamomile water or lime water and / or natural thermal water or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Les Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water. The water phase can also include reconstituted thermal water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., recreating the characteristics of thermal water. Other ingredients
[0100] According to various embodiments, the photoprotective composition according to the present invention comprises one or more ingredients which may include one or more solvents in an aqueous phase or an oily phase of the emulsion.
[0101] In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises ingredients selected from the group consisting of water-based solvents such as glycols, SPI enhancers and stabilizers, oil-based solvents, oils and waxes (as described in more detail below) and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises solvents selected from the group consisting of glycerin, propanediol, ethylhexylmethoxycrylene, butyloctyl salicylate, coco caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, isopropyl palmitate and combinations thereof.
[0102] In the various embodiments, the solvents may be present from about 0.1% to about 50%, or from about 0.5% to about 45%, or from about 1% to about 20%, or from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 1% to about 5%, or from about 2% to about 15%, or from about 3% to about 12%, or from about 4% to about 10%, or in any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0103] In some particular embodiments, the solvents may comprise one or a mixture of glycols, for example, glycerin and propanediol, present in a combination of about 5% to about 15%, one or a mixture of IPS enhancers and stabilizers, for example, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene and butyloctyl salicylate, present in a combination of about 2% to about 10%, and an oil or mixture of oils, for example, coco caprylate / caprate present from about 3% to about 10%.
[0104] Accordingly, any solvent or combination of solvents may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition, from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 to about 50 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and therebetween.
[0105] According to various embodiments, the photoprotective composition according to the invention comprises one or a combination of SPI enhancers.
[0106] In some embodiments, the SPI enhancer is selected from butyloctyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, styrene / acrylates copolymer (such as the product marketed as SUNSPHERESTM), ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer, dimethicone and acrylates / dimethicone copolymer, silicone polymer comprising dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone copolymer, Solastay's UVA enhancer, and combinations thereof. In some particular embodiments, the SPI enhancer comprises one or more of the following: butyloctyl salicylate and styrene / acrylates copolymer.
[0107] The SPI enhancer or a combination thereof, when present, may be at a concentration ranging from about 0.01% to 25%, in some embodiments from about 0.1% to 13%, and in some embodiments from about 0.5% to 10%, and in some embodiments from about 1% to 5% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition. Therefore, in various embodiments, an IPS enhancer, when present, may be present in a composition in a weight percent ranging from 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11.0, 12.0, 13.0, 14.0, 15.0, 16.0, 17.0, 18.0, 19.0, 20.0, 21.0, 22.0, 23.0, 24.0 to 25.0 weight percent, inclusive of increments therebetween. Cosmetic oils / emollients
[0108] In accordance with the various embodiments, the photoprotective composition may comprise any one or a combination of cosmetic oils. In some embodiments, the oil is generally immiscible in water. The oil may be selected from hydrocarbons, silicones, fatty alcohols, glycols, and vegetable oils. The oil may comprise one or a combination of polar and non-polar oils. In some embodiments, the oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, mineral oils, ester oils, fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and combinations thereof.
[0109] In certain particular embodiments, the oil may be selected from the group consisting of coco caprylate / caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, isopropyl palmitate and combinations thereof.
[0110] The term "silicone oil" denotes an oil containing at least one silicone atom, in particular containing Si-O groups. The term "fluorinated oil" denotes an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon oil" relates to an oil comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon oil may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, a mineral hydrocarbon oil or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil. In addition, a suitable oil may be a hydrocarbon-based mineral oil, a hydrocarbon-based vegetable oil or a hydrocarbon-based synthetic oil.
[0111] Silicone oils
[0112] The photoprotective composition may comprise one or more silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane. In some cases, the photoprotective composition comprises dimethicone and optionally additional oils, including additional silicone oils. Typically, the silicone oil(s) is / are a non-volatile silicone oil.In some embodiments, the silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes having pendant and / or terminal alkyl or alkoxy groups, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0113] Other examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned are linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8x106 m2 / s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, may in particular cite octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, rheptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethylocty Itrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyliloxane and mixtures thereof.
[0114] Fluorinated oils
[0115] The photoprotective composition may comprise one or more fluorinated oils. For example, the fluorinated oil(s) may be selected from the group consisting of perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, bromoperfluorooctyl, nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoroethoxyisobutane and 4-trifluoromethylpe rfluoromorpholine. Volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, may also be used.
[0116] Hydrocarbon oils
[0117] The photoprotective composition may comprise one or more hydrocarbon oils. For example, the hydrocarbon oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon oil, an unsaturated hydrocarbon oil, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil and / or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition may comprise a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene. A hydrocarbon oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil such as:
[0118] (i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, it being understood that these chains may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched;These oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower, bancoule nut oil, passionflower oil and rosehip oil. ;
[0119] (ii) synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0120] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam and squalane;
[0121] (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R+R' is ÿ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate,such as the product marketed under the name “Dub Dis” by Stéarinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C12-C13 alkyl) tartrates, such as those marketed under the name Cosmacol ETI® by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as di(linear C14-C15 alkyl) tartrates, such as those marketed under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company or acetates; ,
[0122] (v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, comprising a chain branched and / or unsaturated carbon base containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol.
[0123] (vi) higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
[0124] (vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product marketed under the name Cetiol CC(TM) by the company Cognis;
[0125] (viii) fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205(TM) from the company Ajinomoto and
[0126] (ix) essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, oil of Grapefruit, Jasmine oil, Juniper oil, Lavender oil, Lemon oil, Lemongrass oil, Lime oil, Mandarin oil, Marjoram oil, Myrrh oil, Neroli oil, Orange oil, Patchouli oil, Pepper oil, Black pepper oil, Petitgrain oil, Pine oil, Rose otto oil, Rosemary oil, Sandalwood oil, Spearmint oil, Spikenard oil, Vetiver oil, Wintergreen oil, Ylang ylang oil.
[0127] The hydrocarbon oils may be triesters of glycerides and in particular of caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol.Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils are hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate.
[0128] In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition may comprise one or more oils such as those described above and oils that may be selected from branched or linear liquid alkanes with a carbon chain length of C11 to C20. In various embodiments, the liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length of C11 to C20. The liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length of C11 to C20, or C15 to C19, or one of C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18 to C19. In some embodiments, suitable liquid alkanes for use according to the invention comprise hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes.
[0129] In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition may comprise one or more oils selected from polar emollients selected from esters, triglycerides, ethers, carbonates, alcohols, oils, butters, fatty acids, and combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the polar emollients may be selected from those having a molecular weight of 400 g / mol or less. More generally, the polar emollient may have a molecular weight in the range of about 50 g / mol% to about 350 g / mol.
[0130] In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition may comprise polar emollients that include those derived from C12-C50 fatty acids, preferably C16-C22 saturated fatty acids and monohydric alcohols. In some embodiments, such esters may be selected from isopropyl myristate, methyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl laurate, ethylhexyl toleate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, lactic acid esters of fatty alcohols containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0131] The oil(s), when present, alone or in combination as a mixture of oils, may be present in the photoprotective composition in an amount of from about 0.0001% to about 20% or from about 0.001% to about 0.0010%, or from about 0.003% to about 0.004%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.5% to about 20%, or from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 5% to about 10%, or from about 2% to about 7%, or from about 0.5% to about 2%, or from about 0.008% to about 0.01%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or from about 0.5% at about 2%, or from about or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the photoprotective composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises more than one oil, each oil being present in an amount as indicated above, wherein each different oil (such as, for example, vegetable oils and extracts with oils) may be present in one of the ranges selected from the ranges indicated above.
[0132] Thus, each of the at least one oil or combination of oils is present by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition, of about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent, including increments and ranges within and between these values. Cosmetic waxes
[0133] According to the invention, optionally one or more waxes may be present in the photoprotective composition, the wax being chosen from natural and synthetic waxes. The natural waxes may include animal tallow, bay berry wax, beeswax, grapefruit wax, orange peel wax, palm wax, rice bran wax, sumac wax, sunflower wax, soybean wax, polyhydroxystearic acid and combinations thereof.
[0134] In some embodiments, when present, a wax may be selected from oryza sativa cera (rice bran wax), candelilla wax, seed wax sunflower, camauba wax, polyhydroxy stearic acid and combinations thereof. In a particular embodiment, the composition comprises rice bran wax.
[0135] In accordance with the various embodiments, the wax, when present, is present in the composition at a weight concentration of from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.2% to about 4%, or from about 0.5% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 2% or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the photoprotective composition.
[0136] In some embodiments, the composition comprises more than one wax, each present in the composition at a concentration, by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition, in the range of about 0.1% to about 10%, or any other combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the photoprotective composition.
[0137] Thus, when present, the wax is present by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition of about 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, up to about 10 weight percent, including increments and ranges within and between these values. Powders
[0138] According to various embodiments, the photoprotective composition according to the invention may optionally comprise a powder or a combination of powders comprising sensory experience modifying powders. In certain particular embodiments, the powders may be selected from boron nitride, perlite and aluminum starch octenyl succinate.
[0139] The powder or combination of powders, when present, may be in a concentration of about 0.05% to 15%, in some embodiments about 0.1% to 10%, and in some embodiments about 1% to 5% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition. Therefore, in various embodiments, a powder, when present, may be present in a composition in a weight percentage ranging from 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11.0, 12.0, 13.0, 14.0, to 15.0 weight percent, inclusive of increments therebetween. Moisturizing agents
[0140] According to the invention, in certain embodiments, one or a combination of moisturizing or humectant agents may be present in the photoprotective composition. The moisturizing agent present in the cosmetic composition, according to the invention, comprises, in particular, one or a combination of polyols, including, for example, glycerin, glycerol, glycols, such as caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycol ethers such as monopropylene, dipropylene and tripropylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, squalane, triacetin, sugars such as glucose, xylitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose pentaerythritol, inositol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactic acid, lithium chloride, acetamide MEA, sodium lactate, urea, dicyanamide, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, honey and algae extract.
[0141] In some embodiments, the photoprotective composition comprises a moisturizing agent selected from one or a combination of glycerin present at about 7% and propanediol present at about 1%.
[0142] In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of moisturizing agent present in the photoprotective composition may range from about 1% to about 25%, or from about 2% to about 20%, or from about 3% to about 5%, or be in any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange thereof by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
[0143] Accordingly, any one or a combination of moisturizing agents may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition, from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, to about 25 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and therebetween. Active Ingredients / Optional Additives
[0144] The photoprotective compositions may also comprise one or a combination of optional active ingredients or additives used in the cosmetic field which do not affect the properties of the photoprotective compositions according to the invention such as fragrances, colorants, pearlescent agents, silica, preservatives, proteins, protein hydrolysates, sodium hyaluronate, vitamins, panthenol, silicones, odor absorbers and coloring materials; antimicrobial components, including, in particular, phenoxyethanol, chlorophenesin, capryloyl glycol and sodium salicylate; essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil,balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil bitter orange, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil and ylang ylang; fruit extracts, for example Pyrus Malus (apple) fruit extract, and Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice powder;citric acid, sodium chloride; neutralizing agents or pH regulating agents (e.g. triethylamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide), and combinations thereof.
[0145] Although the optional actives / additives are given as examples, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used.
[0146] In certain particular embodiments, the photoprotective composition may comprise one or a combination of diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, hydroxyacetophenone, citric acid, chlorphenesin, EDTA, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, tocopherol, niacinamide, disodium magnesium sulfate and combinations thereof.
[0147] In some particular embodiments, the photoprotective composition may comprise actives comprising one or a combination of thickeners selected from hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polyhydroxystearic acid (wax), xanthan gum or a combination thereof. In some particular embodiments, the photoprotective composition may comprise antimicrobials comprising phenoxyethanol.
[0148] In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of each or a combination of optional actives / additives, when present in the photoprotective composition may be present in a range of about 0.001% to about 20%, by weight, or about 0.005% to about 0.01%, or about 0.01% to about 0.1%, or about 0.15% to about 5%, or about 0.40% to about 4%, or about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or about 1% to about 2%, or in any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition. In some embodiments, a combination of actives present in the photoprotective composition may be present in a range of about 0.001% to about 20%.
[0149] Accordingly, any optional active or combination of actives / additives, when present, may be present by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition, each or the combination being present in an amount of about 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent by weight, including increments and ranges included within and between them.
[0150] The present invention also relates to methods of protecting skin from UV radiation comprising applying an effective amount of the photoprotective composition of claim 1 to the skin. Examples
[0151] The following examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to be limiting.
[0152] EXAMPLE 1: Raw materials
[0153] The selected raw materials as used in the photoprotective composition are identified in the table below.
[0154] [Tables 1] Raw Material Source Active Percentage *C 12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER Intelimer (TM) H4, from Air Products 100% ZINC OXIDE (and) TRIETHOXYCAP RYLYLSILANE -98% TITANIUM DIOXIDE -82% STEARIC ALCOHOL-20 100% STEARIC ALCOHOL-2 100% LAURETH-23 100%
[0155] *Example of Intelimer (TM) lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener, C10-30 polypoly acrylate.
[0156] Representative raw materials
[0157] EXAMPLE 2: Inventive and basic compositions
[0158] A factory-modulatable photoprotective composition according to the invention was prepared and demonstrated the physical and chemical properties as described below. The composition of the invention was evaluated by an FDA in vivo SPI characterization method, achieving a value of 50 or more, as described below.
[0159] [Tables2] INGREDIENT COMPOSITION IN VENTIVE STEARETH-2 and STEARETH-20 -2 ACTIVES (DIETHYLHEXYL SYRINGYLIDENEMALO NATE, TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINA TE, HYDROXYACETOPHENONE, CITRIC ACID) ~1.4 EMOLLIENT (COCO CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE) -5 WAX (ORYZA SATIVA CERA AND POLYHYDR OXYSTEARIC ACID) -1.5 XANTHAN GUM 0.2 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL AURATE COPOLYMER 0.3 C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 1.5 PRESERVATIVE (CHLORPHENESIN) -0.2 WATER -48 GLYCERIN AND PROPANEDIOL -10 ZINC OXIDE (and) TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE -7 ORGANIC UV AGENTS AND SPF ENHANCERS (-4%) (ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCRYLENE, BUTYLOCTYL S ALICYLATE, ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE (OCTYL SALICYLATE), O CTOCRYLENE, HOMOSALATE) -22
[0160] Inventive example
[0161] Poly acrylate Poly in C10-30: Intelimer (TM) products from Air Products.
[0162] [Tables3] ACTIVE BASE INGREDIENT (DIETHYLHEXYL SYRINGYLIDENEMALOATE, TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINA TE, HYDROXYACETOPHENONE, CITRIC ACID) -1.4 EMOLLIENT (COCO CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE) -5 WAX (ORYZA SATIVA CERA AND POLYHYDR OXYSTEARIC ACID) ~1.5 XANTHAN GUM 0.2 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL AURATE COPOLYMER 0.3 C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER 1.5 CHLORPHENESIN 0.2 WATER -48 GLYCERIN AND PROPANEDIOL -10 SPF ENHANCER (METHOXYCRYLENE ETH YLHEXYL AND BUTYLOCTYL SALICYLATE) -4
[0163] Base Composition
[0164] The foregoing base composition was used to provide each of Comparative Compositions No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3, wherein:
[0165] Comparative Composition No. 1 further included:
[0166] ethylhexyl salicylate (octyl salicylate), 5%
[0167] octocrylene sunscreen, 5%
[0168] homosalate sunscreen, 8%
[0169] Comparative Composition No. 2 further included:
[0170] ethylhexyl salicylate (octyl salicylate), 5%
[0171] octocrylene sunscreen, 5%
[0172] homosalate sunscreen, 8%
[0173] zinc oxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane, 7%
[0174] Comparative composition No. 3 further included:
[0175] ethylhexyl salicylate (octyl salicylate), 5%
[0176] octocrylene sunscreen, 5%
[0177] homosalate sunscreen, 8%
[0178] zinc oxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane, 7%
[0179] glyceryl stearate citrate,1%
[0180] EXAMPLE 3: Structural stability of the emulsion and processability testing of the inventive and comparative compositions
[0181] LTPS, structural stability and processability of the emulsion were tested on a panel of compositions. The results are shown in Table 4 below.
[0182] [Tables4], Characteristic Comparison No. 1 (Base + organic anti-UV filters) Comparison No. 2 (Base + ZnO + organic anti-UV filters) Comparison No. 3 (Base + ZnO + organic anti-UV filters, anionic emulsifier) Inventive composition No. 1 Stability YES YES NO YES Processability YES NO NO YES In vivo test IPS 50 YES NO NO YES
[0183] According to the data collected for the inventive and comparative examples, it is evident that the base composition with only organic UV filters provides stability, processability and displays a high SPI, but, upon addition of ZnO, processability and SPI were lost. Furthermore, upon addition of an anionic emulsifier, stability was also lost. The inventive composition demonstrates that the inorganic and organic UV filters can be present in an amount that represents about 25% of the photoprotective composition, by weight, to provide a high SPI composition that exhibits long-term stability (12 weeks) and allows for modulated processing.
[0184] EXAMPLE 4: Structural stability of the emulsion and processability test of the inventive and comparative compositions.
[0185] An inventive composition and a comparative composition were tested using only inorganic UV filters (no organic UV actives). The inventive formula was prepared using a C12-15 alkyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and the comparative formula was prepared without the polymer and with an increased concentration of emulsifiers. The results are shown in Table 5 below.
[0186] [Tables5] INGREDIENTS INVENTIVE EXAMPLE C OMPARATIVE EXAMPLE WATER QS QS THICKENER 1.9 1.9 EMOLLIENT 16 16 SILICONE 3.5 3.5 STEARETH-2 and STEARETH-20 ~1 ~2.4 and 0.9 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0.25 0.25 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0 0.5 SPF ENHANCER 4 4 PRESERVATIVE 1 1 DISPERSING AGENT 0.65 0.65 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 5.12 10 ZINC OXIDE 16.41 12.5 VITAMIN E 3 3 C12-15 ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER 1 0 Physical stability Stable Unstable
[0187] The comparison demonstrates that regardless of the presence of organic anti-UV filters, the photoprotective composition according to the invention offers a composition with a high SPF which demonstrates long-term stability (12 weeks) and allows for modular treatment.
[0188] While the invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, those skilled in the art will understand that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements herein without departing from the scope of the invention. Furthermore, numerous modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation or material to the teachings of the invention without departing from the essential scope thereof. Accordingly, it is understood that the invention is not limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out the invention but that the invention will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.
[0189] The compositions and methods of the present disclosure may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful. The terms "comprise," "having," and "including" are used in their open, non-restrictive sense. The expression "inclusive" for a concentration range means that the limits of the range are included within the defined interval.
[0190] Other than in the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", meaning to within + / -5% of the number indicated.
[0191] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are, unless otherwise indicated, based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure.
[0192] All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc. In addition, all ranges provided are intended to include every specific range and combination of subranges between the given ranges. Thus, a range of 1-5, specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
[0193] As used herein, the term "at least one" is interchangeable with the term "one or more" and, therefore, covers individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0194] The term "a mixture thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."
[0195] The term "viscosity" refers to the thickness of a fluid or composition and is a measure of the resistance to flow of a fluid or composition. Herein, "viscosity" is synonymous with "dynamic viscosity" or "absolute viscosity", rather than "kinematic viscosity", and is measured using a rheometer according to a method known to those skilled in the art. Viscosity measurements herein are, unless otherwise indicated, reported in pascal-seconds (Pa.s).
[0196] The term "INCI" is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
[0197] The term "weight ratio" or "mass ratio" as used herein refers to the amount of a substance relative to a mixture containing said substance, and is calculated by dividing the amount of said substance by weight contained in the mixture by the weight of the mixture containing said substance. For example, a weight ratio of 0.4 for substance A in a mixture of A, B and C indicates that the weight of substance A divided by the total weight of substances A, B and C is 0.4.
Claims
Claims
1. A photoprotective composition comprising an oil-in-water emulsion of aqueous and oily phases, comprising: i. at least one lipophilic acrylate-based oil thickener comprising a C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymer, ii. at least one mineral UV filter; iii. at least one non-ionic surfactant comprising steareth-2, steareth-20 or a combination thereof; iv. one or a combination of additives selected from the group consisting of solvents, SPI enhancers, humectants, skin care actives, oils, waxes, thickeners, preservatives, pH adjusters, chelating agents, viscosity adjusters, cooling agents, fillers, fragrances, colorants, pigments and combinations thereof;said composition further comprising one or more organic UV filters comprising homosalate, octisalate and octocrylene, wherein the UV filter comprises zinc oxide, present in an amount ranging from 5% to 10%, and wherein homosalate is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 15%, octisalate is present in an amount in a range from 1% to 7% and octocrylene is present in an amount in a range from 7% to 15%, each by weight, based on the total weight of the photoprotective composition; and wherein the composition has an SPF in a range from 30 to 55 and exhibits phase stability and processability.;
2. The photoprotective composition according to claim 1- wherein the at least one mineral UV filter comprises zinc oxide, a zinc oxide derivative, titanium dioxide, a titanium dioxide derivative or combinations thereof.