Anhydrous, non-transferable skincare and / or makeup composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic, preferably solid, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials chosen in particular from the group consisting of: . copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, . sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), . branched esters of dextrin, . and mixtures thereof, - optionally in addition at least one coloring material, characterized in that it comprises a total wax content of less than 7% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, or even is wax-free.

Description

Title of the invention: Anhydrous non-transferable skincare and / or makeup composition FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to anhydrous cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and lips. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] There is a strong consumer demand for anhydrous skincare and makeup products that have good hold on keratinous materials, in particular good hold on skin or lips, and especially products that are resistant to all "life conditions", including so-called "extreme" conditions: high temperature and humidity, sweat and sebum (consequences of temperature) and widespread mask-wearing (involving areas of friction and transfer).

[0003] The prior art is known to use retention polymers, particularly silicone-based polymers, volatile oils, and waxes, especially in solid compositions, but retention efficiency (no migration and / or non-transfer) and / or sensoriality (comfort) on the skin are not always optimal, particularly in extreme conditions.

[0004] Consequently, there remains a need to develop new anhydrous products with improved durability, without compromising the desired cosmetic and sensory (comfort) properties. Advantageously, products with little or no volatile oils are sought, and, for solid compositions, little or no waxes.

[0005] The Applicant has demonstrated that combining a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type with one or more compounds that promote the product's adhesion to the skin and / or lips improves the cohesive and adhesive properties of the product film deposited on the skin of the lips and, consequently, its resistance to external stresses. Surprisingly, this combination limits the sticky feel of the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type alone and prevents damage to the network formed by the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type in the oil phase, thanks to a chemical interaction between the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type and the adhesion agent. This combination makes it possible to formulate anhydrous compositions, particularly solid ones, without silicone resin and with a wax content of less than 7% by weight of the total composition. Description of the invention

[0006] A first aspect of the invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition, preferably solid, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, less :

[0007] - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type,

[0008] - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials chosen in particular from the group made up of:

[0009] vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms,

[0010] sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0011] branched dextrin esters,

[0012] and mixtures thereof,

[0013] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent,

[0014] characterized in that it comprises a total wax content of less than 7% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, or is even devoid of wax.

[0015] By 'keratinous materials', we mean in particular the skin and / or the lips.

[0016] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising the application, to said keratinous materials, of a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] Thus, a first aspect of the invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition, preferably solid, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0018] - a lipophilic polycondensate of polyamide type,

[0019] - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials chosen in particular from the group made up of:

[0020] vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms,

[0021] sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0022] branched dextrin esters,

[0023] and mixtures thereof,

[0024] - possibly in addition at least one coloring agent,

[0025] characterized in that it comprises a total wax content of less than 7% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, or is even devoid of wax.

[0026] The composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0027] By "anhydrous," it is understood, in particular, that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably contains significantly less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is totally free of water.

[0028] The composition of the invention is generally solid, as defined by viscoelastic parameters according to the following protocol for example.

[0029] The viscoelastic parameters of the products (compositions of the invention) are measured using a TA Instruments DHR2 rheometer at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). A pellet of the product is cut and placed between two smooth metal surfaces 20 mm in diameter and 1 mm apart. The storage modulus or elastic modulus G' (Pa) and the phase angle delta (°) are recorded as a function of increasing stress from 0.1 Pa to 10,000 Pa. The values ​​used are extracted from the linear range in which the moduli are constant, i.e., at strains less than 100 Pa. A product with a storage modulus G' greater than or equal to 5,000 Pa and a phase angle delta less than or equal to 30° will be considered solid.

[0030] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention is characterized by a conservation modulus G' greater than or equal to 5000 Pa, and whose phase angle delta less than or equal to 30°, as measured according to the protocol described above.

[0031] Polyamide-type gelling polymer (promotes film cohesion)

[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, as a fat-phase gelling polymer.

[0033] Polyamide-type polycondensates can form a three-dimensional network through hydrogen bonding interactions, in which lipophilic oils have an affinity for acidic dimer chains. When applied to the surface of the skin and / or lips, they form a highly structured network resistant to external stresses (friction, contact, etc.) and which reforms rapidly after shearing, while remaining comfortable. Their presence in the oil phase thus gives the composition of the invention significantly improved adhesion when applied as a film to the surface of the skin and / or lips.

[0034] For the purposes of this invention, "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups, chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0035] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs and even better 10 repeating motifs.

[0036] Throughout the rest of the description, the terms 'polyamide polymer', 'polyamide polycondensate', 'lipophilic polyamide polycondensate', and 'polycondensate' are used interchangeably. 'lipophilic polyamide type' or 'lipophilic gelling polymer polyamide type'.

[0037] The polyamide-type polycondensate usable as fat-phase gelling agents in the composition of the invention is preferably chosen from ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, or ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0038] In the context of the invention, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and / or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0039] According to a first preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer (also called dilinoleic acid), with ethylenediamine, the remaining acidic end groups being esterified by cetyl alcohol (Cl6), stearyl alcohol (Cl8), or a mixture thereof. The copolymer thus obtained has the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DL LINOLEATE COPOLYMER. It is notably sold by ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade names UNICLEAR 80 and UNICLEAR 100 VG, respectively in the form of an 80% (active ingredient) gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (active ingredient) gel.

[0040] These mixtures are also sold by CRODA under the trade name OLEOCRAFT LP-IO-PA-(MV), respectively at 99.7% (active ingredient) with a preservative. They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C. Their average molecular weight is preferably 6000, and even more preferably 4000.

[0041] According to a second particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol (C18).

[0042] The copolymer thus obtained is a dimeric copolymer ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl dibenzoate, having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

[0043] The copolymer with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is, for example, marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA.

[0044] In general, polymers as described below are in the form of polymer mixtures, these mixtures may also contain a synthesis product corresponding to a diester.

[0045] A mixture of lipophilic gelling agents among those described above is, for example, a mixture of ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) and polyamides with a termination polyalkyleneoxy with molecular weights approximately between 4,500 and 30,000 Daltons (Da).

[0046] According to a particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type used according to the invention is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 15% to 30% by weight, preferably from 20% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise a lipophilic co-gelling agent promoting the cohesion of the film on the skin. In particular, it does not contain silicone resin.

[0048] Compound promoting film adhesion to the skin and / or lips

[0049] The composition of the invention comprises one or more compounds having good adhesion properties on the skin and / or lips, dispersible in oil phase, polymeric or non-polymeric, and distinct from the lipophilic polyamide polycondensate described above.

[0050] This compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials (also called 'adhesive compound') according to the invention is capable of guaranteeing optimal adhesion to the skin and / or lips throughout the day.

[0051] According to a particular mode, this compound promoting the adhesion of the film to the skin and / or lips is characterized by an adhesion working measure, as defined by the following protocol.

[0052] The adhesion work function of a raw material (e.g., a polymer) is measured at room temperature (22°C + / - 2°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) using the so-called "Delrin finger" method. The instrument used is a TAXT Plus texture analyzer from Stable Micro Systems. The method consists of inserting a 12.7 mm diameter polyoxymethylene (Delrin) cylinder, rounded at its end, into a 6 cm diameter and 4 cm high container filled with the raw material (e.g., polymer) to be tested. The insertion depth is 13 mm, at a speed of 2 mm / sec. After this insertion depth, the cylinder is withdrawn at a speed of 2 mm / sec.

[0053] The resistance force to cylinder retraction is measured until the polymer bonded to the cylinder completely detaches, corresponding to a return to zero measured force. The calculated adhesion work, expressed in N / mm², corresponds to the total area under the x-axis.

[0054] Thus, within the framework of the invention, a compound promoting the adhesion of the film to the skin and / or lips will preferably be used, having an adhesion work greater than or equal to 2 N / mm, preferably greater than or equal to 4 N / mm, and in particular ranging from 5 N / mm to 35 N / mm, or even from 7 N / mm to 30 N / mm, measured for example by the protocol described above.

[0055] In particular, the following adhesion polymers may be cited, having a work Adherence measured according to the protocol described above:

[0056] UNIMER U1946 (VP / hexadecene copolymer, INCI name: VP / hexadecene and octyldodecanol): 7.7 N / mm²

[0057] CGT-UNIFILMA HVY (85%) (dextrin isostearate): 20.7 N / mm³

[0058] EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB (sucrose acetate isobutyrate): 24.2 N / mm.

[0059] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, said compound promoting the adhesion of the film to keratinous materials is chosen from the group consisting of: - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, - sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), - branched dextrin esters, - and their mixtures.

[0060] Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene

[0061] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene copolymers.

[0062] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises a VP / hexadecene copolymer, such as that with INCI name: VP / hexadecene and octyldodecanol, marketed under the name UNIMER U-1946.

[0063] The vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymer(s) comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular the VP / hexadecene copolymer, is (are) present in the composition in a total content of 2 to 20%, in particular 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] Sugar esters

[0065] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a film cohesion-enhancing compound selected from sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed under the name EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB by the EASTMAN company. This compound can be prepared by known techniques of reaction between sucrose and acetic and isobutyric anhydrides, followed by extensive purification by vacuum distillation. The degree of esterification is almost complete (degree of substitution greater than 7.5 for a maximum degree of substitution of 8), with an acetate:isobutyrate ester ratio of 2:6. US patent 3,096,324 gives an example of the preparation of SAIB.

[0066] The sucrose ester(s), in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate, is / are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] Branched dextrin esters

[0068] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a compound promoting the adhesion of the film to keratinous materials selected from branched esters of dextrin.

[0069] The branched dextrin ester according to the invention may comprise one or more esterified chains, identical or different. For example, it may be dextrin esterified with several identical or different fatty acids. These dextrin esters can be prepared using conventional esterification methods.

[0070] According to a particular embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is a dextrin ester in which the dextrin has an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150, and in which the fatty acid(s) comprise from 50% to 100% by mole, based on the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more branched saturated fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less than 50% by mole, based on the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more other fatty acids selected from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and in which the degree of substitution of dextrin by fatty acid(s) is 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.

[0071] Such dextrin esters are described in particular in European application EP 2537865.

[0072] According to a preferred embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is selected from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate.

[0073] Among the commercially available compounds, we can mention UNIFILMA HVY dextrin isostearate marketed by the Chiba Flour Milling Co.

[0074] According to one embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, INCI name POLYAMIDE-8, preferably in a content ranging from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials, chosen from the group consisting of:

[0076] vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms,

[0077] sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0078] and their mixture,

[0079] and possibly also a coloring agent

[0080] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular with an active ingredient content ranging from 15 to 30%, in particular from 20 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and - a VP / hexadecene copolymer, in particular in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] Preferably, in this particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, INCI name POLYAMIDE-8, is used.

[0082] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular in a content ranging from 15 to 30%, in particular from 20 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and - a sucrose acetate isobutyrate, in particular in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] Preferably, in this particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, INCI name POLYAMIDE-8, is used.

[0084] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular in a content ranging from 15 to 30%, in particular from 20 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and - a VP / hexadecene copolymer, in particular in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and - a sucrose acetate isobutyrate, in particular in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] Preferably, in this particular mode, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is used.

[0086] Oily phase

[0087] The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a fatty or oily phase.

[0088] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils that are miscible with each other.

[0089] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance that is insoluble in water. liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0090] The composition of the invention comprises a wax content of less than 7% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 5%, preferably less than or equal to 2%, or even is free of waxes.

[0091] In the case where the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes in a content of less than 7% by weight of the composition, these are chosen from waxes of natural origin, in particular waxes of vegetable origin.

[0092] Natural waxes include, in particular, beeswax, camauba wax, and candelilla wax.

[0093] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% silicone oils, in particular less than 2% silicone oils, or even is devoid of silicone oils.

[0094] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of volatile oils, in particular less than 2% by weight of volatile oils, or even is devoid of volatile oils.

[0095] Thus, preferably, the composition of the invention does not include wax, silicone oil or volatile oil.

[0096] The oily phase of the composition shall comprise at least non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, selected from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, synthetic C10-C40 esters, fatty alcohols in C12-C26, higher fatty acids in C12-C22, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] According to a particular mode, the composition shall comprise one or more hydrocarbon oil(s), preferably chosen from ester oils.

[0098] Among the "ester oils", the following may be mentioned in particular:

[0099] - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0100] - synthetic esters such as RiCOOR2 formula oils in which Ri re presents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristate 2-octyldodecyl, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

[0101] - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number from 35 to 70;

[0102] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, hydroxystearate octyldodecyl, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0103] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0104] - C24-C28 branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters;

[0105] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of car- acid(s) boxyl(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0106] and their mixtures.

[0107] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise at least one ester oil selected from the group consisting of synthetic esters, hydroxylated esters and their mixtures.

[0108] The total quantity of oils present in the composition according to the invention will generally range from 35 to 65%, preferably from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] The oily phase may further comprise a vegetable resin, in particular chosen from the group consisting of a candelilla resin, a carnauba resin, and a rosinate.

[0110] According to a particular method, a candelilla resin will be used.

[0111] One can cite in particular candelilla resin marketed under the name CANDELILLA RESIN E2 by the company Japan natural products Co.,Ltd.

[0112] Colouring materials

[0113] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in particular for tinted skincare compositions or makeup compositions, the composition comprises at least one coloring material.

[0114] Colouring material in the context of the present invention means a compound capable of producing a coloured optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0115] A colouring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic colouring materials, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the oily phase of the invention.

[0116] According to a particular method, the colouring material(s) are chosen in particular from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0118] Among the "mineral pigments", examples include dioxide of titanium (rutile or anatase), possibly surface treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0119] Examples of lip compositions include titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

[0120] Among the "organic pigments", one can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36;; D & C Red no. 33; D & C orange no. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D & C Red no. 30; D & C red no. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and lakes.

[0121] In particular, the colouring material(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other additional ingredients

[0122] The composition of the invention may further include at least one additional ingredient selected from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] According to a particular mode, the composition further comprises one or more UV filters. The UV filter(s) may be selected from inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] "Inorganic UV filters" are generally metal oxide pigments selected from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.

[0125] "Inorganic UV filters" can be water-soluble or fat-soluble.

[0126] According to a particular mode, a solar composition of the invention comprises an inorganic UV filter selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide and their mixture, and a liposoluble organic UV filter. GALENIQUE

[0127] The composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition, preferably solid.

[0128] This could be a lip balm, a foundation stick, a concealer or concealer, an eyelid product, an eyebrow product or even an eyeliner.

[0129] According to a first embodiment, the composition is an anhydrous skin and / or lip care composition.

[0130] According to another embodiment, the composition is an anhydrous makeup composition for the skin and / or lips, in particular a foundation stick, a complexion corrector or concealer, an eyelid product, an eyebrow product, an eyeliner or a lip stick (lipstick stick).

[0131] According to another embodiment, the composition is a solar product.

[0132] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is a com solid position, in the form of a stick for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup, in particular a stick for the skin (e.g. foundation stick, concealer, eyelid stick, eyebrow pencil, eye pencil) or a stick for the lips (e.g. lipstick stick).

[0133] Preferably, it will be a lipstick stick or a foundation stick. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0134] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of an anhydrous composition according to the invention.

[0135] In particular, the anhydrous composition of the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0136] - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, in particular in a content ranging from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0137] - a compound selected from the group consisting of:

[0138] vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms,

[0139] sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB),

[0140] and their mixture,

[0141] - and pigments.

[0142] Preferably, the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type with INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is used.

[0143] According to a particular method, the composition applied to the skin is a skin care and / or makeup composition, in particular a foundation.

[0144] According to another particular method, the composition applied to the lips is preferably a solid lip makeup composition, in particular a lip stick.

[0145] The process according to the invention is in particular a process for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup, intended to deposit on the skin and / or lips a film of non-transfer composition.

[0146] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0147] Example 1: Negative effect of adding waxes (carnauba wax and microcrystalline wax respectively) on the gloss retention and film strength and / or the non-transfer aspect of an anhydrous stick lipstick composition according to the invention

[0148] An anhydrous stick composition according to the invention has been formulated, and comparative compositions in which levels (7% and 10%) of Carnauba wax (vegetable wax) and microcrystalline wax (synthetic wax) have been added respectively.

[0149] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name) Invention Comparative formula 1: 7% carnauba wax Comparative formula 2: 10% carnauba wax Comparative formula 3: 7% microcrystalline wax Comparative formula 4: 10% microcrystalline wax POLYAMIDES (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) from CRODA) 25 VP / HEXADECENE COPOLYMER (UNIMER U-1946) 5 SUCROSE ACETATE ISO-BUTYRATE (SAIB 100) 5 POLYGLYCERYL-1 TRIISOSTEARATE 20 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 20 PIGMENTS 5 CARNAUBA WAX (CARNAUBA WAX Tl INA TRADING) - 7 10 7 10 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE q.s. 100

[0150] The formulas were prepared according to the following procedure:

[0151] The ingredients of the continuous oily phase (including waxes) are weighed in the main beaker.

[0152] The mixture is then heated to 90°C in a water bath and dispersed with Rayneri until a homogeneous transparent phase is obtained.

[0153] The pigments are weighed in a capsule, added to the main beaker and mixed for 15 minutes.

[0154] The resulting composition is solid.

[0155] The formulas were then evaluated on the one hand for the film's durability and the gloss of the composition of the invention and on the other hand for the durability aspect (non-transfer).

[0156] Film adhesion and gloss

[0157] The formulas were therefore evaluated by a panel of experts, for the film strength and gloss of the composition of the invention, according to the following protocol: - Each formula is applied to half of the lips, the formula of the invention on the left side and the comparative formula on the right side; - Photos of the lips on which the formulas were applied were taken at T immediately after application, at T+2h and at T+4h after meals; - The experts evaluated the effect of adding waxes on the film strength and gloss of the comparative compositions against the formula of the invention (control) and assigned the following scores:

[0158] + : significant improvement in the performance of the comparative formula compared to the formula of the invention

[0159] - : significant deterioration in the performance of the comparative formula compared to the formula of the invention

[0160] 0: no impact on the formula's stability (same as control)

[0161] The results of the evaluations are presented in the following tables: the same results were observed for camauba wax and microcrystalline wax.

[0162] [Table 2] 7% camauba wax (Comparative 1) or 7% microcrystalline wax (Comparative 3) Film longevity (+2h) Film longevity (+4h after meal) Immediate gloss Gloss longevity (+2h) Panelist 1 0 0 0 0 Panelist 2 0 0 0 0

[0163] No impact on hold and shine with 7% waxes (carnauba or microcrystalline)

[0164] [Table 3] 10% camauba wax (Comparative 2) or 10% microcrystalline wax (Comparative 4) Film longevity (+2h) Film longevity (+4h after meal) Immediate gloss Gloss longevity (+2h) Panelist 1 - — — - Panelist 2 - — — -

[0165] Negative impact on film adhesion and immediate gloss. Adds stickiness.

[0166] These results show that the addition of 10% by weight of Carnauba wax or microcrystalline wax relative to the total weight of the composition has a negative impact on the film adhesion and gloss of the composition of the invention.

[0167] Appearance of the garment (non-transfer)

[0168] In parallel, the formulas were also evaluated on the aspect of hold (non-transfer) according to the following protocol (the “kiss” test):

[0169] It consists of applying makeup to the lips with the compositions (invention and comparatives in hemi-lips) and, after 15 minutes, kissing a sheet of paper.

[0170] We can then evaluate the transfer of each composition (invention and comparators) on paper.

[0171] The transfer of each formula is evaluated by visual observation and ratings are assigned to them.

[0172] 0: no transfer

[0173] - : light transfer

[0174] — : average transfer

[0175] — important transfer

[0176] The results are presented in the following table 4:

[0177] [Table 4]: Formulas tested: Evaluation of Invention Transfer - Comparison 1 (7% carnauba) — Comparison 2 (10% carnauba) — Comparison 3 (7% microcrystalline) — Comparison 4 (10% microcrystalline) —

[0178] These results show that the addition of Carnauba wax or microcrystalline wax, (at 7% or 10% by weight in the composition), decreases the holding (non-transfer) property of the composition.

[0179] Therefore, based on all these results, for good film adhesion and gloss performance on the one hand, and good non-transfer properties on the other, little or no wax will be used in the composition of the invention, and in any case a total wax content of less than 7% by weight so as not to alter the desired non-transfer properties. Example 2: Formulations

[0180] 2-1 Non-transfer lipstick stick

[0181] [Tables5] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight POLYAMIDES (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) from CRODA) 24 SUCROSE ACETATE ISOBUTYRATE (SAIB 100) 5 CANDELILLA RESIN (CANDELILLA RESIN E2) 5 POLYGLYCERYL-10 PENTAISOSTEARATE 21 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 20 PIGMENTS 8 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE QsplOO

[0182] The composition is prepared as described in example 1.

[0183] When applied to the lips, the composition leaves a comfortable film, with very good film hold and shine, and no transfer.

[0184] 2-2 Non-transfer lip balm

[0185] [Tableauxô] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight POLYAMIDES (SP OLEOCRAFT LP-20 MBAL-PA-(MV) from CRODA) 26 VP / HEXADECENE COPOLYMER (UNIMER U-1946) 9 POLYGLYCERYL-10 PENTAISOSTEARATE 20 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 20 PIGMENTS 6 POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE QsplOO

[0186] In an alternative example, the VP / HEXADECENE COPOLYMER (UNIMER U- 1946) is replaced by an equivalent content of SUCROSE ACETATE ISO-

[0187]

[0188] BUTYRATE (SAIB 100). The composition is prepared as described in Example 1. When applied to the lips, the composition deposits a comfortable film, with very good film hold and shine, and is non-transferable.

Claims

Demands

1. Solid anhydrous cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type present in an active material content of 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials chosen from the group consisting of: . sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), . branched esters of dextrin, . and mixtures thereof, - optionally in addition at least one coloring material, characterized in that it comprises a total wax content of less than 7% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, or is wax-free.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is selected from ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, or ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a linoleic acid dimer, on ethylenediamine, the remaining acid terminations being esterified by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a mixture thereof, and having the INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER.

4. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) obtained by condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid and neopentyl glycol, on ethylene diamine; the remaining acidic terminations being esterified by stearyl alcohol, and having the INCI name: POLYAMIDE-8.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type is present in an active material content of 20 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the claims, characterized in that it comprises: - a lipophilic polycondensate of the polyamide type, INCI name POLYAMIDE-8, in a content of 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - a compound promoting the adhesion of the composition to keratinous materials chosen from the group consisting of: . sugar esters, preferably sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), and optionally in addition a coloring matter.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils, preferably selected from ester oils.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises an additional ingredient selected from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic actives, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more UV filters.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is an anhydrous stick for the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips, in particular a lipstick stick, a foundation stick, a complexion corrector or concealer, an eyelid product, an eyebrow product or an eyeliner.

11. A cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.