Customizable texture cosmetic composition

Abstract

Title: Customizable Textured Cosmetic Composition The present invention relates to a basic formulation composition and its use for the manufacture of cosmetic products with various customizable textures. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition with customizable texture Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, which can serve as a formulating base, and its use for the manufacture of cosmetic compositions with varied and personalized textures. Background to the invention

[0002] New digital technologies mark the advent of hyper-personalized cosmetics. Thus, new launches of "personalization" type cosmetic products are based, for example, on a new mixing device, a new digital application, a new skin diagnostic process or a process for determining the color of a cosmetic product that corresponds to the skin color of a user.

[0003] Several models coexist. In particular, there is "homemade" cosmetics, where consumers make their own beauty products, for example using boxes of ingredients. Personalized products can be made at home, by mixing the ingredients by hand or with tools such as a spoon, spatula, whisk, or using a mixer. The most classic cosmetics personalization is "mixology" which consists of mixing different ingredients with a process very often involving heating and low-energy mixing equipment such as a manual whisk. The diversity of raw materials, the complexity of their handling and the following of a particular recipe makes the approach tedious and does not allow for obtaining a homogeneous and efficient mixture close to industrial quality.

[0004] Furthermore, the approach to customization at the industrial level is also very complex with classic operational systems.

[0005] Personalization at the point of sale is also booming, particularly for skin care and makeup. Foundations and lipsticks can now be made on site, at the counter, in front of the customer, using micro-factories, offering thousands of possible combinations. This is what SkinCeuticals offers, for example, with a personalized skin care service called "Custom DOSE", or even Lancôme's "Teint Particulier". In the case of "Teint Particulier", a Lancôme beauty advisor accompanies each customer and begins the consultation with a skin scan in three different places to precisely analyze the type and shade. An algorithm interprets the data collected to define the ideal foundation formulation. Thanks to its sensitivity With a chromatic accuracy superior to that of the human eye, the algorithm allows you to choose the shade perfectly suited to each skin tone. The tailor-made formula is then prepared in-store in around twenty minutes. While the shade can be adjusted, so can the level of hydration and coverage, with 72,000 possible combinations.

[0006] To date, there is no cosmetic product offering for which it would be possible to personalize the texture, while guaranteeing, for example, the same stability or constant effectiveness of active ingredients regardless of the texture.

[0007] There therefore remains a real need to provide new compositions of formulating bases, hereinafter “blocks”, making it possible to easily create and prepare, by mixing between said cosmetic blocks, a whole range of cosmetic textures, and thus allow complete personalization.

[0008] On the other hand, consumers have a heightened environmental awareness, expectations of more naturalness, the need to be reassured about the ingredients of cosmetic formulas, in particular their safety, their low environmental footprint, their origin, or even their renewable nature.

[0009] The present invention aims to propose formulas that respond to this quest for environmental responsibility, for thoughtful, more sober consumption, for cosmetic products that are both simpler but also more precise, freshly prepared, on demand and "tailor-made". These formulas must correspond perfectly to their skin, their desires and their environment.

[0010] The present invention therefore aims to develop a composition, in particular a formulating base or “base block”, which is both minimalist but sufficiently robust in terms of stability criteria, to be able to withstand different formulating environments, when mixing said base block with other so-called “functional” blocks, and thus allow the obtaining of stable personalized compositions whatever the final texture required.

[0011] To be able to be described as “robust”, the base block must be able to withstand different dilution rates, different types of processes, including mixing processes at room temperature and using the lowest possible energy, but also the addition of electrolytes, fluctuations in pH, temperature, and the addition of various cosmetic ingredients, to enable the obtaining of personalized and stable final compositions whatever the final texture required.

[0012] In any case, it should be noted that the mixing efficiency is lower than that of industrialized cosmetics. Therefore, to ensure the stability and quality of these mixtures, it is necessary to design new pre-formulated cosmetic preparations (also called “cosmetic blocks”) that are easy to assemble and mix using agile manufacturing methods, including “ by blocks”. Thus, this trend towards extreme personalization creates a need for new types of formulations, and in particular compositions capable of being formulated quickly on demand.

[0013] The present invention therefore aims to design a robust formulating “block” composition that can be combined “custom-made” with different functional blocks by means of low-energy stirring (in particular by means of a Speedmixer®) and at room temperature (typically 25°C).

[0014] The present invention thus aims to design a common concentrated formula base, a true "engine block" of the formula of different cosmetic products with varied final textures, said base being sufficiently robust to be customized by adding other blocks. In addition, the present invention also aims to facilitate the preparation process of each final cosmetic product thus customized, by making it possible industrially to manage only one type of base, and to guarantee the quality and speed of preparation, not only of said base or engine block (hereinafter "BM") then of each customized final product which uses it.

[0015] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these objectives can be achieved by the composition according to the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0016] According to a first aspect, the present invention therefore relates to a composition, in particular a formulating base, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

[0017] A) at least two diols comprising at least:

[0018] - a first major diol chosen from those in list Al consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol,

[0019] - a second diol different from the first and chosen from those of said list Al and / or those in list A2 consisting of diols containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0020] B) at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0021] C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises 16 with 22 carbon atoms; and

[0022] D) water.

[0023] According to a second aspect, the subject of the present invention is the use of a composition according to the invention, for the manufacture of at least one cosmetic product with a personalized texture, in which said composition is mixed, preferably in blocks, with one or more other compositions (blocks), in particular pre-formulated, said mixture being preferably carried out at a temperature in the range of 15 to 50°C, preferably at room temperature in the range of 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature close to 25°C, preferably under stirring at a stirring speed in the range of 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably 200 to 2000 rpm, preferably 200 to 1000 rpm, preferably by means of a Speedmixer®, preferably directly in the final container of said cosmetic product.

[0024] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a composition according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps:

[0025] - heating and mixing ingredients A) to D) at a temperature within the range from 50 to 85°C, preferably from 60 to 80°C until a homogeneous aqueous dispersion of said fatty substances in the aqueous phase is obtained;

[0026] - cooling the dispersion thus obtained to a temperature below 30°C;

[0027] - recover the composition, in particular the formulating base, according to the invention.

[0028] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to a kit comprising:

[0029] - On the one hand a composition (a) in accordance with the invention as defined above,

[0030] - On the other hand one or more compositions (b),

[0031] in which said compositions respectively (b) and (a) are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously to form a cosmetic product, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a makeup, makeup removal, cleansing or care product for the skin, mucous membranes, appendages or hair.

[0032] According to a fifth aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for, making up or removing make-up from the skin, including the scalp, hair and / or lips, comprising the application to the skin, hair and / or lips of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0033] The present invention thus proposes a simple minimalist universal base ("engine block" with industrial quality) which already has the appearance of a cream with an interesting basic sensory effect (fresh / moisturizing without soaping or sticky effect) and which has the capacity to stabilize at room temperature one or more raw materials ("functional blocks") from several families such as Fatty substances, Water, Active ingredients, Gelling agents, Fillers, Pigments. The mixing of the base block with the functional block(s) can be done at room temperature directly in the packaging or final container with a low-energy mixing tool and preferably of the asymmetric or planetary type (Speedmixer® type) but it is not excluded to heat the whole.The increment allows you to explore a wide range of textures (from lotion to serum, including creams and balms) and sensory effects for care or hybrid (BBcream) applications for various areas ranging from the face, hair, to the body.

[0034] The present robust formulating block composition allows rapid tailor-made formulation by simply combining said block with different functional blocks, and allows exploring a whole range of textures, sensory effects and benefits with a performance at least equal to conventional formulas, manufactured according to a conventional industrial process by mixing raw material by raw material. Detailed description of the invention

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0036] By "keratin materials" is meant the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the appendages. Preferably, the keratin materials are the skin, in particular the skin of the face, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and / or the appendages such as the eyelashes.

[0037] The compositions according to the invention may be cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Preferably, they are cosmetic compositions.

[0038] The composition according to the invention contains a cosmetically acceptable medium.

[0039] In the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a non-toxic medium, compatible with keratin materials, in particular with the skin (including the inside of the eyelids), mucous membranes, hair or lips of human beings. A cosmetic composition is a product having a pleasant appearance, odor and feel, and intended for topical application.

[0040] By "soluble or solubilized compound" is meant a compound which can be dissolved in a liquid, or which is miscible, and forms only a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the liquid.

[0041] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0042] The expressions “at least one” and “one or more” are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

[0043] In the description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, the contents and percentages are weight percentages. The percentages are therefore generally expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated. The ratios are also weight ratios. The temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0044] - By high-performance composition, we mean a base composition robust to various possible constraints (pH, salts, dilution, heating, cold emulsification with low energy, etc.) that can be imposed by the addition of other (blocks of) raw materials with a view to diversifying textures.

[0045] - By “robust” composition we mean in particular a composition which meets the less than the criteria below (as defined and measured according to the protocols specified below in the examples):

[0046] 'be stable over a wide pH range, to ensure the antimicrobial protection of the formula and the pH-dependent activity of certain active ingredients;

[0047] “be stable at high temperature at 45°C, and at 75°C to allow the introduction of hot blocks of ingredients, in particular based on melted wax, and thus guarantee the possibility of obtaining a texture of balm or butter consistency;

[0048] 'be insensitive to electrolytes, in particular resistant to the presence of NaCl type salts, to allow the introduction of mineral water, such as Vichy water or La Roche Posay water without risk of instability linked to the presence of mineral salts, or guarantee stability following the addition of certain active ingredients charged with ions;

[0049] 'be stable upon dilution with or without the presence of fatty substances, and in particular:

[0050] “to be able to emulsify at room temperature (25°C) fatty substances, such as vegetable oils, with a low-energy tool such as Speedmixer®;

[0051] “be stable when diluted in water and thus guarantee the possibility of obtaining a texture of mist / serum / lotion consistency.

[0052] - By "stable composition" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a composition which, after 2 months of storage at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C, does not show any macroscopic change in color, odor, or viscosity, but on the contrary remains homogeneous and regular, and which does not dephase (no separation of the aqueous phase and the oily phase) nor release oil.

[0053] - by “very stable” composition, we mean a composition which, after centrifugation (3700 rpm Ih), shows no change in texture (no drop in viscosity or consistency) at T0 (after manufacturing), nor after 2 months in an oven at 45°C (storage and accelerated aging).

[0054] By "predominantly" or "in a majority capacity", it is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, that the compound is in the majority among the compounds of the same type in the composition, that is to say that it is the one which represents the greatest quantity by mass among the compounds of the same type. Preferably, the mass of this compound represents at least 50% of the total mass of the compounds of the same type in the composition. For example, in a system comprising a single fatty alcohol, this is in the majority within the meaning of the present invention; and in a system comprising two fatty alcohols, the majority fatty alcohol represents at least half, preferably more than half, of the total mass of the fatty alcohols, in other words the mass of this fatty alcohol represents at least 50% of the total mass of the two fatty alcohols.In the same way, a so-called majority diol is the one representing the greatest mass among all the diols in the composition, in particular whatever the type of diol, y-. including those of type Al or A2 as defined according to the invention. On the other hand, the majority Al diol is the one representing the greatest mass among all the Al diols in the composition. If the composition contains only 2 Al diols of equal content in the composition, they are both at 50% by weight, so one or the other can be considered as the majority Al diol in the composition of the invention. Composition

[0055] The composition according to the invention is a formulating base (also called formulation engine block, hereinafter “BM”), or any final composition comprising it.

[0056] According to a first aspect, the present invention therefore relates to a composition as defined above, in particular a formulating base, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

[0057] A) at least two diols comprising at least:

[0058] - a first major diol chosen from those in list Al consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol,

[0059] - a second diol different from the first and chosen from those of said list Al and / or those in list A2 consisting of diols containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0060] B) at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0061] C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises 16 with 22 carbon atoms;

[0062] and

[0063] D) water.

[0064] The applicant has found that this composition according to the invention, based on water, a mixture of specific fatty substances (fatty alcohol and alkylpolyglucosides) and a mixture of particular diols, according to preferred ratios, provides a formulating base (or formulation engine block "BM") which is robust and therefore customizable using a low-energy process at room temperature. It forms a common base for the composition of different cosmetic products with very varied textures.

[0065] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has in itself a stable cream texture without requiring the addition of gelling agent, which contributes to its minimalist side and its permissiveness to vary the texture, in particular by simple dilution in water without fear of destabilization. Fatty alcohols

[0066] The composition of the present invention comprises at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0067] A fatty alcohol can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0068] By “fatty alcohol” within the meaning of the invention, we mean any alcohol comprising: a saturated and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular consisting of an alkyl chain, linear, said chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, and a hydroxyl function.

[0069] By “hydrocarbon chain” is meant an organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.

[0070] A fatty alcohol that can be used according to the invention is formed from a fatty chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0071] By "fatty alcohol containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms" is meant any alcohol comprising a saturated and linear hydrocarbon chain, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, said chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and a hydroxyl function.

[0072] Preferably, the fatty chain of said fatty alcohols is chosen from the following units: cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the following units: cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, behenyl, and arachidyl.

[0073] The fatty alcohols particularly suitable for the invention may be chosen from cetyl alcohol sold under the name LANETTE 16 by the company COGNIS, or stearyl alcohol sold under the name LANETTE 18 by the company COGNIS, or the commercial product KALCOL 80-98® from KAO, or cetearyl alcohol sold under the name LANETTE O OR by the company COGNIS; mention may also be made of arachidyl alcohol such as the commercial products HAINOL 20SS® from the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO. LTD and NACOL 20-95® from the company SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG); behenyl alcohol such as the commercial products NACOL 22-97® and NACOL 22-98® from the company SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG); and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of fatty alcohols comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0075] Advantageously, the total content of fatty alcohols in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 1 to 20%, preferably 1.5 to 15%, preferably 2 to 12%, preferably 3 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0076] According to the present invention, said fatty alcohols comprise at least one major fatty alcohol present in a weight content greater than or equal to that of each of the other fatty alcohols present in the composition, preferably said major fatty alcohol representing more than 50% by weight of the total weight of fatty alcohols present in the composition, the total weight of fatty alcohols representing 100%.

[0077] For the purposes of the present invention, cetearyl alcohol (C16-C18) has the INCI name CETEARYL ALCOHOL, and although it comprises a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C16) and stearyl alcohol (C18), it counts as a single fatty alcohol (cetearyl alcohol) in the composition of the present invention. Cetearyl alcohol is therefore associated with at least one other fatty alcohol, preferably associated with at least two other fatty alcohols, containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms in the composition of the present invention, such as for example arachidyl alcohol (C20) and / or behenyl alcohol (C22).

[0078] Preferably said at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms comprise cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0079] Advantageously, the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of lower average chain length is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of comparatively higher average chain length. In other words, among all said fatty alcohols, the weight content of each fatty alcohol of radical R' in the composition is greater (compared to the other fatty alcohols) the smaller the chain length of its Alkyl radical R'.

[0080] By way of example, the fatty alcohol contents in the composition of the invention are such that the content of cetearyl alcohol (C16-C18 mixture) > the content of arachidyl alcohol (C20) > the content of behenyl alcohol (C22). In the above-mentioned example, it is therefore cetearyl alcohol which is the majority fatty alcohol within the meaning of the present invention.

[0081] Preferably, said majority fatty alcohol is chosen from: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol, preferably chosen from cetearyl alcohol.

[0082] Advantageously, said majority fatty alcohol is present in the composition of the invention in a content comprised in the range of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, preferably 2 to 6% by weight, preferably 3 to 5% by weight, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%. Alkyl polyglucosides

[0083] The alkyl polyglucosides (hereinafter abbreviated as “APG”), optionally polyalkoxylated, can be chosen from a group comprising the compounds of the following general formula: R'O-(G)a,

[0084] in which R1 denotes a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical, and / or an alkylphenyl radical, comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, the group G a sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and a is a number ranging from 1 to 10, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] The alkyl polyglucoside may be chosen in particular from the group comprising: ethers or mixtures of ethers of C16-C22 fatty alcohols and glucose, maltose, sucrose, xylose or fructose and ethers or mixtures of ethers of fatty alcohols in C16-C22 and methyl glucose. The fatty unit of the ethers can be chosen in particular from cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, hexadecanoyl, octyldodecyl units and their mixtures such as cetearyl.

[0086] According to a preferred embodiment, said at least two alkylpolyglucosides are chosen from cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, cocoyl polyglucoside, octyldodecyl xyloside, and mixtures thereof, preferably cetearyl glucoside and arachidyl glucoside.

[0087] As examples of additional alkyl polyglucosides possibly present in the composition in addition to those defined above according to the present invention, mention may also be made of decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside marketed for example by the company Henkel under the respective names “PLANTAREN 2000” and “PLANTAREN 1200”.

[0088] The APGs that can be used in the composition of the present invention are advantageously chosen from: cetearyl glucoside, optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol), sold for example under the name "MONTANOV 68" by the company Seppic, under the name "TEGO Care CG90" by the company Evonik Goldschmidt and under the name "EMULGADE KE 3302" by the company Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside sold under the name "MONTANOV 202" by the company Seppic, the mixture of cocoyl polyglucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35 / 65) sold under the name "MONTANOV 82" by the company Seppic, octyldodecyl xyloside sold under the names “FLUIDANOV 20X” or “EASYNOV” by the company Seppic.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from “MONTANOV 68” or “MONTANOV 202” by the company Seppic.

[0090] Preferably, the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of lower average alkyl chain length is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of comparatively higher average alkyl chain length. In other words, and preferably in a BM composition according to the invention, an APG of longer alkyl chain is present in a lower content than that of an APG of comparatively shorter alkyl chain. Or, the weight content of each APG in the composition is lower the longer the chain length of the Alkyl radical of said APG. Thus, between two APGs, the one of the two which has the longer alkyl chain is preferably present in a content lower than or equal to that of the two APGs which has the shorter chain.

[0091] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, said at least 2 alkylpolyglucosides include: (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as cetearyl glucoside; and (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as arachidyl polyglucoside; preferably in a weight ratio of (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) to (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) greater than 1; preferably include, or are, arachidyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside; preferably according to a weight ratio of cetearylglucoside to arachidyl glucoside greater than 1.

[0092] Advantageously, the total APG content is in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 4%, preferably 0.5 to 3.5%, preferably 1 to 3%, by weight, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0093] Advantageously, the BM composition according to the invention comprises two types of fatty substances:

[0094] - at least two alkylpolyglycosides (also called “APG”) of formulas (I) and (II):

[0095] R10(Gl)xl (I)

[0096] R2O(G2)x2 (II)

[0097] in which RI and R2 each represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical, having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, G1 and G2 each represent a residue of a saccharide, and xl and x2 each represent a number between 1 and 5;

[0098] and

[0099] - at least two fatty alcohols of formula R'OH, in which R' is a radical aliphatic, linear or branched, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably the alkyl part of which is identical to the alkyl part RI, R2 of the aforementioned alkylpolyglycosides;

[0100] - preferably, the weight content of each APG in the composition is as much greater than the chain length of the radical RI or R2 is smaller.

[0101] - preferably, the weight content of each fatty alcohol in the composition is the greater the shorter the chain length of the radical R'.

[0102] Preferably, in the composition of the present invention, the weight ratio of the total fatty alcohol content to the total APG content is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than 1.

[0103] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the following specific mixture of APG and fatty alcohols:

[0104] - from 0.2 to 5%, preferably from 0.5% to 4%, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight arachidyl alcohol;

[0105] - from 0.1 to 2%, preferably from 0.1 to 1%, preferably from 0.1 to 0.75% by weight arachidyl glucoside;

[0106] - from 0.1 to 3%, preferably from 0.1 to 2%, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight behenyl alcohol;

[0107] - from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 8%, preferably from 1 to 7% of alcohol cetearyl;

[0108] - from 0.1 to 4%, preferably from 0.2 to 3%, preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight of cetearyl glucoside;

[0109] in association with the diols and water, as defined according to the invention; said composition being in the form of a formulating base or in the form of a final cosmetic formula. Diols or glycols

[0110] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least two diols or glycols.

[0111] By diol according to the invention is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and carrying only two hydroxyl groups. The diol can be a natural or synthetic diol. The diol can have a linear, branched or cyclic structure.

[0112] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least two specific diols comprising at least:

[0113] - a first major diol chosen from those in list Al consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol,

[0114] - a second diol different from the first and chosen from those of said list Al and / or those in list A2 consisting of diols containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0115] The diol(s) Al is (are) chosen from the group consisting of dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol; and mixtures thereof.

[0116] According to a first particular embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise propylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol; preferably consist of propylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol.

[0117] According to a second particular embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise dipropylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol; preferably consist of dipropylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol.

[0118] According to a third particular embodiment of the invention, said at least two diols comprise dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; preferably consist of dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol.

[0119] Preferably, said at least one diol A2 contains from 5 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0120] When present in the composition according to the invention, the diol(s) A2 is (are) advantageously chosen from diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] According to a preferred embodiment, the diol(s) A2 is (are) advantageously chosen from: pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof; preferably comprises (comprise) at least hexylene glycol.

[0122] Advantageously, the weight ratio R of the total quantity of diol(s), in particular possible A1+A2, to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.75; preferably greater than 1.85.

[0123] Preferably, the weight ratio RI of the total quantity of diol(s) Al to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

[0124] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the weight ratio RI' of the majority quantity of diol Al to the majority quantity of fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

[0125] According to a particular embodiment, the weight ratio RI” of the quantity of each diol Al to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

[0126] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one diol A2, the weight ratio R2 of the total quantity of diol(s) A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol being less than 1.

[0127] Preferably, the weight ratio R2' of the majority quantity of diol A2 to the majority quantity of fatty alcohol is less than 1.

[0128] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the weight ratio R2” of the quantity of each diol A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is less than 1.

[0129] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the contents by weight in the composition are such that:

[0130] the majority diol Al content > or = the majority fatty alcohol content > the majority diol A2 content, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0131] Preferably, the contents by weight in the composition are such that:

[0132] the content of each diol Al > or = with majority fatty alcohol content > the content of each diol A2, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0133] Advantageously, the total content of diol(s) Al is in the range of 5% to 40%, preferably 7% to 30%, preferably 10% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0134] Preferably, the total content of optional diol(s) A2 is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably is in the range of 0.5 to 5%, preferably 1 to 4%, preferably 1 to 3.5%, preferably 1 to 3% by weight on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

[0135] Advantageously, said diols may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% at 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Water

[0136] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water, and forms an aqueous phase with at least the diols present according to the present invention. The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as water-soluble solvents.

[0137] A water suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

[0138] In the present invention, the term water-soluble solvent means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0139] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

[0140] Among the water-soluble solvents which may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols, including those other than said diols according to the invention and having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerin and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0141] The composition preferably comprises water in a content ranging from 2% to 99% by weight, more preferably ranging from 5% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] The aqueous phase is preferably present in a concentration of 2 to 99% by weight, preferably 10 to 90% by weight, preferably in the range of 20 to 80% by weight, more particularly 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0143] Preferably, the amount of water in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] The amount of water in the composition according to the invention preferably varies in the range from 20% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40 to 80% by weight, and more particularly 45 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] According to one embodiment, said glycol(s) in accordance with the invention and the water described above may be present in the composition according to the invention. in a mass ratio of said glycol(s) / water, for example ranging from 0.05 to 5, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1.

[0146] Process for manufacturing the composition according to the invention

[0147] The present invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a composition according to the invention comprising at least the following steps:

[0148] - heat and mix ingredients A) to D) at a temperature within the range from 50 to 85°C, preferably from 60 to 80°C until a homogeneous aqueous dispersion of said fatty substances in the aqueous phase is obtained;

[0149] - cooling the dispersion thus obtained to a temperature below 30°C;

[0150] - recover the composition, in particular the formulating base, according to the invention.

[0151] According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention comprises the following steps:

[0152] - heating the aqueous phase comprising the ingredients A) diols and D) water on the one hand, and heating the fatty substances B) and C) on the other hand, to a temperature in the range of 50 to 85°C, preferably 60 to 80°C;

[0153] - mix the aqueous phase and the fatty substances thus heated to a temperature within the range of 40 to 85°C, preferably 60 to 80°C until a homogeneous aqueous dispersion of said fatty substances in the aqueous phase is obtained;

[0154] - cooling the dispersion thus obtained to a temperature below 30°C;

[0155] - recover the composition, in particular the formulary base or BM, according to the invention.

[0156] Advantageously, the composition thus obtained is used in at least one of the following subsequent steps, preferably carried out at a temperature below 30°C, for the manufacture of a final cosmetic composition:

[0157] - Dilution with water, and / or emulsification of oil(s), and / or emulsification of body fats (the latter being optionally melted at a temperature in the range of 60 to 75°C in the case of solid fats at a temperature below 30°C) to personalize the texture of the final composition; and / or

[0158] - Mixing with other blocks: such as sensory blocks made from ingredients likely to modify the sensory aspect of the formulas; and / or functional blocks based on cosmetic agents or cosmetic active ingredients.

[0159] Shapes and textures of the compositions according to the invention

[0160] Advantageously, the composition of the invention forms a formulating base, such as an aqueous emulsifying composition, of composition as defined above.

[0161] The present invention also relates to the use of such a formulating base composition, in particular an aqueous emulsifying composition, according to the invention as defined above, for the manufacture of at least one product cosmetic with a personalized texture, in which said aqueous composition is mixed, preferably in blocks, with one or more other compositions or blocks, in particular pre-formulated, said mixture being preferably carried out at a temperature in the range of 15 to 50°C, preferably at room temperature in the range of 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature close to 25°C, preferably with stirring at a stirring speed in the range of 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably 200 to 2800 rpm, preferably 200 to 2500 rpm, preferably by means of a Speedmixer®, preferably directly in the final container of said cosmetic product.

[0162] The composition according to the invention, whether it constitutes a formulating base or a final composition, can be presented in liquid form, in the form of a serum, a milk, in thickened form, in particular a gel, a cream, a wax, a paste, a butter or in the form of a mousse.

[0163] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional compounds chosen from non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, thickening polymers of natural or synthetic origin, cationic, anionic, non-ionic or zwitterionic, associative or non-associative, silicones in the form of oil, gums or resins or non-silicone vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils, UV filters, fillers, such as nacres and metal oxides such as titanium dioxides, clays, cosmetic active ingredients, perfumes, peptizing agents, vitamins and preservatives.

[0164] The technical characteristics described above concerning the different ingredients of the BM composition according to the present invention also apply of course to any cosmetic composition prepared from the composition of this BM.

[0165] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic kit comprising:

[0166] - on the one hand a basic formula composition (a) of composition conforming to the invention, and

[0167] - on the other hand one or more compositions (b),

[0168] in which said compositions respectively (b) and (a) are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously, preferably at a temperature below 30°C, to form a cosmetic product, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a makeup, makeup removal, cleansing or care product for the skin, mucous membranes, appendages or hair.

[0169] Finally, the subject of the present invention is a non-therapeutic process for caring for, making up or removing make-up from the skin, including the scalp, hair and / or lips, comprising the application to the skin, hair and / or lips of a composition as defined according to the invention.

[0170] Materials and methods used in the present description of the invention:

[0171] - Planetary motion mixer: Speed ​​Mixer TM DAC400FVZ. The speed of the mixer is set (in rpm) and the mixing time (in minutes) as indicated in the test examples below.

[0172] - The viscosity of the composition is measured at room temperature (25°C) using of a RHEOMAT RM 200 viscometer equipped with a spindle No. 3 or 4 (M3, M4), the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the product (time at the end of which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotation speed of the spindle is observed), at a shear of 200 s-1. The results are given in UD (Deflection Unit), then using an Abaque transcribed in Poise then in Pa.s-1. In the context of the present invention, the cone / plane or plane / plane geometry was used.

[0173] - The consistency and flow behavior of low-temperature samples Deformations were obtained by rheological measurements using a Thermo Fisher Scientific Haake Mars III rheometer (Massachusetts, USA) using a cone / plate geometry. Samples were taken with a spatula (approximately 1 ml) from the center of the surface with the minimum possible shear. The HAAKE RheoWin software from Thermo Fisher Scientific was used. The program begins by lowering the disk to 1 mm above the plate. Then, the oscillating disk sweeps the sample with a deformation of 0.05 Pa to 500 Pa at a frequency of 1 Hz. The temperature is kept constant at 20±1°C. The titanium disc used has a conical shape and has been sandblasted, its dimensions are 60.005 mm in diameter, 0.053 mm truncation and a cone angle of 1.008°, its geometric factors are 1.768x104 Pa / Nm for factor A and 56.84 (l / s) / (rad / s) for factor M.The complex shear modulus, G* (Pa), was obtained as a function of the deformation shear stress, r (Pa). The rheological behavior of the formulas was analyzed. Measurements of the storage moduli G', loss or dissipation moduli G' ' were used to determine the complex modulus G* as well as the phase shift ô between stress and strain. These data are analyzed as a function of the shear stress. The value of the complex modulus G* at the plateau preceding the break in the curve gives an idea of ​​the consistency of the product at rest. Examples

[0174] The following examples allow a better understanding of the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0175] Tests used in the examples to evaluate the robustness of the BM and Protocols:

[0176] [Tables] T est at acid pH (p H 4.5) Adjustment of pH to 4.5 with a 7M citric acid solution (1 43.08 g / 100 mL) - Visually observe the evolution at T0, T24h, Isem, Imois, 2m ois, of the appearance: homogeneity OK or NOK release (water base, oily phase on the surface) - pH monitoring up to 2 months Tamb and 45°C: if pH variation > 0.5 => NOK / if pH variation < 0.5 => OK T est of dilution in water (water / BM: 80 / 20, 70 / 30, 60 / 4 0, 50 / 50) In a polypropylene (PP) pot (185 ml) incorporate the BM at different concentrations 20g, 30g, 40g and 50g and water QSP 100. Shake in a Speed ​​Mixer (DAC 400) for 2 min at 2750 rpm. Visually observe the evolution at T0, T24h, Isem, Imois, 2mois, of the appearance: homogeneity OK or release NOK (water base, oily phase on the surface) of the mixture. T est with NaCl. In a PP pot (185 ml), incorporate 96 g of BM and 4 g of the aqueous solution of NaCl (25% in water). Shake in a Speed ​​Mixer (DAC 400) for 2 min at 2750 rpm. Visually observe at T0, T24h, Isem, Imois,2 months the appearance: homogeneity OK / release NOK (water base, oily phase on the surface) or if necessary to move to a lower mobile for viscosity measurement (e.g.: M3=>M2) NOK Centrifugation test of the BM alone Incorporate 10 g of formula into a centrifugation tube Shake 1 hour at 3000 rpm Observe at T0 visually and under the microscope the appearance of the centrifuged BM: homogeneity OK / release (water base, oily phase on the surface) NOK Emu 1 sification of oils: 4 oils are tested separately: Jojoba oil, Dimethicone, Squalane, C15-19 ALKANE (Emogreen L15) Make 200 g of formula by incorporating 54% of the BM, 10% of oil, and water qsp 100 in a PP 600 jar (750ml) Shake with a Speed ​​Mixer (DAC 400) for 4 min at 2750 rpm; then 1) Visually observe the T0 appearance (homogeneity OK / release NOK); then 2) Centrifugation at T0: homogeneity OK / release (water pellet,oily phase on the surface) NOK; then 3) Accelerated aging / rheology (G* consistency at rest = ratio between the elastic component G' / viscous G” ): measurement at 2 months with the HAAKE MARS III rheometer of G* , at 2m T 45°C, G* at 2m Tamb: if G* Tamb - T45°C > 50% NOK, if variation <50% OK Test Emulsification jojoba oil + NaCl Emulsification of jojoba oil 10% at 25°C with Speedmixer® 4 ' 2750 RPM +1% NaCl Speedmixer® 4' 2750 RPM, then visually observe the appearance: homogeneity OK / NOK release (water base, oily phase on the surface) or if it is necessary to move to a lower spindle for viscosity measurement (e.g.: M3=>M2) NO K Test Ultra centri ULTRAcentrifugation 30 mins 10000 rpm 40°C with 10% jojoba oil + 1% NaCl, then visually observe the appearance: homogeneity OK (water base accepted here) / release N0K = oily phase on the surface) Extreme test with 10% jojoba oil a + 1% NaCl ULTRAcentrifugation 2X 30mins 10000 rpm 40°C + 5h 10000 RPM 40°C: homogeneity OK / release (water base, oily phase on the surface) NOK.

[0177] Example 1 - Comparison of different surfactants on the robustness of BM

[0178] The following compositions were prepared and then tested according to the protocols described above:

[0179] [Tables2] INCI Cpl Cp2 Cp3 Cp4 AQUA 61.39600 64.56700 64.56700 65.16700 GLYCERIN 13.40000 13.40000 13.40000 13.40000 GLYCERYL STEARATE 4.59000 4.59000 4.59000 4.59000 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3.83000 3.83000 3.83000 3.83000 0.95000 0.95000 CITRIC ACID 0.65000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5.74000 5.74000 5.74000 5.74000 PROPANEDIOL 5.74000 5.74000 5.74000 5.74000 STEARIC ACID 1.91500 POTASSIUM HYDROXID E 1.40600 SODIUM STEAROYL GLU TAMATE 0.80000 GLYCERYL STEARATE C ITRATE 0.80000 SODIUM DILAURAMIDO GLUTAMIDE LYSINE 0.20000 Acid pH test (pH 4.5) OK NOK NOK NOK Heating test at 45°C NOK NOK NOK NOK Heating test at 75°C NOK NOK NOK NOK

[0180] Compositions Cpl to Cp4 do not withstand the “first elimination tests” » (Acid pH stability test (pH 4.5), 45°C heating test, 75°C heating test.

[0181] [Tables3] INCI Cp5 Cp6 Cp7 Cp8 Cp9 CplO AQUA 90.00 90.00 90.00 90.00 90.00 90.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 7.00 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 3.00 SODIUM METHYL STEAR OYL TAURATE 3.00 SUCROSE LAURATE 1.50 SUCROSE PALMITATE 1.50 SORBITAN LAURATE (an d) POLYGLYCERYL-4 LA URATE (and) DILAURYL CITRATE 3.00 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DISTE ARATE, GLYCERYL STEA RATE CITRATE 3.00 POLYGLYCERYL-3 METH YLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE 3.00 Test stability at acid pH (pH 4.5) OK NOK NOK OK OK OK Heating test at 45°C OK OK NOK NOK OK OK Heating test at 75°C OK NOK NOK NOK NOK NOK Electrolyte sensitivity test (1% NaCl) OK NOK Emulsification test OIL S 25°C, Speedmixer®, Aspe and OK NOK OK NOK NOK NOK Stability test 2 months 25°C OK OK NOK NOK NOK Stability test 2 months 45°C NOK NOK NOK NOK NOK

[0182] Compositions Cp6 to CplO do not withstand the “first elimination tests” (Acid pH stability test (pH 4.5), Heating test at 45°C, Heating test at 75°C, Electrolyte sensitivity test 1% NaCl):

[0183] Composition Cp6 is unstable at acid pH and sensitive to electrolytes (1% NaCl). Cp7 is unstable at acid pH; compositions Cp8 to Cpl0 do not withstand at least one of the heating tests (45°C and / or 75°C).

[0184] Among all the surfactants tested (Potassium stearate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, Sucrose laurate / palmitate, Sorbitan laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 distearate / glyceryl stearate citrate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose distearate, cetearyl glucoside) in association with Cetearyl alcohol in water, only Cetearyl glucoside of composition Cp5 (Alkylpolyglucoside, non-ionic) is robust to the "first elimination tests", as well as to the emulsification test of oils of different natures, and to the stability test at room temperature (2 months at 25°C). Cp5 is however not stable in the stability test at 45°C (2 months at 45°C).

[0185] Example 2 - Choice of fatty substances and optimization of fatty substance content _ J diols in the BM

[0186] [Tables4] INCI US Cpl 1 Cpl 2 Ex 13 Cpl 4 Cpl 5 Cp 16 WATER 79,24 79,24 79,24 79,24 79,24 79,25 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 8,00 6 4 2 7,00 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 1,38 2,75 4,12 5,5 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0,75 1,5 2,25 3,00 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 2,00 1,50 1,00 0,50 ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0,38 0,75 1,13 1,50 POLYGLYCERYL-3 METHY LGLUCOSE DISTEARATE 3,00 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 PROPANEDIOL 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 HYDROXYACETOPHENON E 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 SALICYLIC ACID 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 0,20 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,06 0,05 Test pH Acide OK OK OK OK OK OK Test DILUTION EAU OK OK OK OK OK NOK Test 1% NaCl OK OK OK NOK NOK OK Test Emulsification HUILES ( diff natures) à Tamb au Speed mixer®, aspect : OK OK OK NOK NOK NOK Test Centrifugation HUILES 1 h, 3000 rpm OK OK OK NOK NOK NOK Test Stabilité HUILES 2m45° C NOK NOK OK OK OK NOK

[0187] The BM based on Cetearyl alcohol made it possible to effectively stabilize emulsified oil drops at room temperature using a low-energy mixing tool (Speedmixer®). However, depending on the nature of the oils, solubilization of the fatty chains may occur during storage for 2 months at 45°C, fluidizing the system (creaming). The combination of Cetearyl Alcohol with fatty alcohols with longer fatty chains (Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Alcohol) made it possible to significantly improve this stability at a temperature of 45°C.

[0188] The table above indicates that the best results in the emulsification and stability tests of cold-formed emulsions (25°C) were obtained for the following combination of ingredients in the following proportions:

[0189] - mixture of the following fatty substances, with weight contents of each ingredient (INCI) on the total weight of the composition meeting the following criteria:

[0190] Cetearyl alcohol content > Arachidyl alcohol content > Behenyl alcohol content

[0191] Similarly, better results are observed if the following APGs are used and the contents of these APGs meet the following criteria in the composition:

[0192] Cetearyl glucoside content > Arachidyl glucoside content

[0193] - the propylene glycol and / or propanediol content, when it is greater than the Cetearyl alcohol content, helps stabilize the emulsion, particularly at 45°C.

[0194] The following tables also confirm this criterion of interest:

[0195] Propylene glycol content or propanediol content > content of each fatty alcohol.

[0196] Compositions Cpl2 and Cpl5 do not meet this last criterion, do not pass the 2m 45°C stability tests and the cold emulsification test respectively.

[0197] Advantageously, these preferred criteria are valid for the BM composition as well as for the final composition which incorporates the BM.

[0198] According to Cpl4, when these preferred characteristics of order of content between fatty alcohols are not respected, the formula is not totally robust: NOK for the salification test by addition of electrolytes (1% NaCl) and NOK for the emulsification tests of oils.

[0199] Preferably, according to the invention, the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of lower average chain length is therefore: greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of higher average chain length. The contents are indicated by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0200] Preferably, according to the invention, the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of average lower alkyl chain length: is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said alkylpolyglucosides of average higher alkyl chain length.

[0201] For Cpl2, the emulsification of oils by BM after 2m 45°C is not stable. This shows the advantage of having a weight content of diol Al chosen from propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol preferably greater than or equal to the weight content of the majority fatty alcohol.

[0202] In the case of Cpl 1 and Cpl5 respectively where the composition contains only one alkylpolyglucoside, the stability test 2m 45°C, shows that the formula is not stable, NOK; and the salification test (1% NaCl), shows that the formula is not stable, NOK.

[0203] Dilution test and obtaining the most fluid to the thickest textures

[0204] The BM of Exl3 was diluted with water at room temperature (25°C) to obtain a liquid consistency. Four different samples were prepared in the Speedmixer® with respectively 50%, 40%, 30%, 20% by weight of BM in water (qsplOO). Stirring was done in the Speed ​​Mixer (DAC 400) for 2 min at 2750 rpm.

[0205] The samples showed very different textures. All were stable even after centrifugation, and visual and microscopic observations were similar to those of the original BM sample (homogeneous appearance).

[0206] Rheometer analysis shows that the consistencies (G*: the consistency of the product at rest) are in different ranges, from 100 Pa (most fluid consistency for the most diluted BM) to 1300 Pa (thickest consistency for the least diluted BM in water). Obtaining butter by emulsifying wax

[0207] The BM of Exl3 was used to emulsify 5% paraffin wax.

[0208] The product thus obtained has a buttery consistency, and has an application particularly gentle on the skin.

[0209] The rheology 24 hours after manufacture indicates a consistency G*=1725 Pa.

[0210] Visual and microscopic observations show a dispersion similar to that of BM at room temperature.

[0211] The engine block composition according to the invention is robust, since it allows both to effectively stabilize oil emulsions, without requiring an additional stabilizer or gelling agent, and to produce several stable textures, from liquid consistency to butter consistency. Example 3 - Choice of diols

[0212] [Tables5] INCI Cpl7 Cpl8 Exl9 Ex20 Cp21 Cp22 Cp23 Cp2 WATER 90,00 88,00 82,50 82,50 82,50 82,50 82,50 82,5 PROPANEDIOL C3 5,50 2,00 7,50 PROPYLENE GLYCOL C 3 2,00 2,00 5,50 7,50 BUTYLENE GLYCOL C4 7,50 PENTYLENE GLYCOL C 5 7,50 1,2-hexanediol (C6) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL C8 DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL CETEARYL ALCOHOL (4 ,00) (and) CETEARYL GL UCOSIDE (1,00) 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (2,75) (and) BEHENYL A LCOHOL (1,5) (and) ARA 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 5,00 CHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (0.75) Test Emulsification of jojoba oil creams ... l%NaCl: ULTRA centrifugation 2 X 30mins 10000 rpm 40°C + 5h 10000 RPM 40°C NOK OK OK NOK Conclusion of the Tests of E aspect aspect OK ne OK ne NOK de NOK de NOK de aspe emulsification of oils NOK s' NOK s' phase phase phase phase phase NO flows e flows ee not and e not and ecor n lean n lean rest cr rest cr n pe antle p ant the p eme eme ant ] ot ot ot

[0213] The best results of BM emulsification tests are obtained for BM compositions based on two diols, in particular chosen from propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and di-propylene glycol, corresponding to Examples 19, 20 and 27 according to the invention. The compositions resulting from the cold emulsification, by BM, of oils in the Speedmixer®, are particularly stable for these glycols. The stability in the NaCl Test measured by ultracentrifugation, is better for Propylene glycol or Dipropylene Glycol in association with 1,3-propanediol. With pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexane diol, or caprylyl glycol (alone) the composition emulsified at cold is comparatively less stable, especially in the NaCl Test, because the texture becomes more fluid as soon as NaCl is added.

[0214] Preferably, propanediol is therefore used between 3 and 8%, combined with propylene glycol between 3 and 10% in the BM engine block composition of the invention.

[0215] Hexanediol (7%) or Caprylyl glycol (7%), used alone, depending on these contents, do not promote the emulsification of oils at room temperature in the Speedmixer® and the emulsions thus obtained (Cp25, Cp26) are not stable in the various tests, in particular in the extreme tests (ultracentrifugation 30 mins 10000 rpm 40°C with 10% jojoba oil + 1% NaCl).

[0216] Nevertheless, when used in combination with at least one of the above preferred diols, and used in amounts of less than 4%, preferably in the range of 1 to 3%, preferably 2 to 3%, by weight of the total weight of the BM composition, the diol(s) containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms reduce soaping, thus improving the intrinsic sensoriality of the BM, without creating instability problems during the emulsification of said BM, even in the Ultracentrifugation test, as shown in the following table, for several hexanediol contents.

[0217] [Tableauxô] INCI Cp28 Cp29 Cp30 Cp31 Cp32 AQUA qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 CETEARYL ALCO HOL 4 4 4 4 4 ARACHIDYL ALC OHOL 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75 2.75 BEHENYL ALCOH OL C15-19 ALKANE 5 5 5 5 5 Hand soaping NOK OK NOK NOK OK Texture cream cream +so uple cream +so uple cream +so uple cream +so uple ULTRAcentrifugation 30mins 10000 rpm 40 °C with 5% oil EM OGREEN + 1%NACL Cream OK Liquid NOK OK OK Cream OK

[0218] When it enters into the composition of the BM, said second diol different from the first diol, and containing from 4 to 8 atoms, preferably represents a content by weight of less than 4%, preferably in the range of 1 to 3%, preferably of 2 to 3% by weight on the total weight of the BM composition.

[0219] For this reason, in the BM composition according to the invention, and to guarantee the stability of the final emulsions incorporating it, the weight content of each fatty alcohol is preferably greater than the weight content of each of said optional A2 diols containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms (other than dipropylene glycol).

[0220] Ultimately, the present invention succeeds in the challenge of providing a versatile and versatile formulating base composition, that is to say, making it possible to "design" any type of cosmetic texture, and to respond precisely to the requirements of each person, by proposing a cosmetic product that is best suited to the desired cosmetic experience.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, in particular a formulating base, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: A) at least two diols comprising at least: - a first major diol chosen from those in list A1 consisting of: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol or di-propylene glycol, - a second diol different from the first and chosen from those in said list A1 and / or those in list A2 consisting of diols containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms; B) at least two fatty alcohols containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, said fatty alcohols comprising a saturated and linear hydrocarbon chain, and a hydroxyl function; C) at least two alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;and D) water, in which the weight ratio R of the total quantity of diols to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.75, the majority fatty alcohol representing more than 50% by weight of the total weight of fatty alcohols present in the composition, the total weight of fatty alcohols representing 100%, in which the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of lower average chain length is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said fatty alcohols of higher average chain length, and in which the weight ratio RI of the total quantity of diol(s) Al to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.;

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio R of the total quantity of diol(s) to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

85.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio RI' of the majority quantity of diol Al to the majority quantity of fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio RI” of the quantity of each diol Al on the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is greater than or equal to 1.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said at least two diols comprise propylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol; preferably consist of propylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said at least two diols comprise dipropylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol; preferably consist of dipropylene glycol and 1,3-propanediol.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said at least two diols comprise dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; preferably consist of dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one diol A2, the weight ratio R2 of the total quantity of diol(s) A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol being less than 1.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the weight ratio R2' of the quantity of majority diol A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is less than 1.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 8 or 9, characterized in that the weight ratio R2' ' of the quantity of each diol A2 to the quantity of majority fatty alcohol is less than i

11. 1. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 10, wherein said at least one diol A2 contains from 5 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably is chosen from: pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, and mixtures thereof; preferably comprises hexylene glycol.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that the contents by weight in the composition are such that: the majority diol Al content is greater than or equal to the majority fatty alcohol content, itself greater than the majority diol A2 content, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that the contents by weight in the composition are such that: the content of each diol A1 is greater than or equal to the content of the majority fatty alcohol, itself greater than the content of each diol A2, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of diol(s) Al is in the range from 5% to 40%, preferably from 7% to 30%, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of optional diol(s) A2 is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably is in the range of 0.5 to 5%, preferably 1 to 4%, preferably 1 to 3.5%, preferably 1 to 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

16. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the respective weight content of each of said lower average alkyl chain length alkylpolyglucosides is greater than or equal to the respective weight content of each of said higher average alkyl chain length alkylpolyglucosides.

17. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least 2 alkylpolyglucosides comprise: (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as cetearylglucoside; and (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucosides, such as arachidylpolyglucoside; preferably in a weight ratio of (C16-C18 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) to (C20-C22 alkyl) polyglucoside(s) greater than 1; preferably comprise, or are, arachidyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside; preferably in a weight ratio of cetearylglucoside to arachidyl glucoside greater than 1.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total APG content is in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 4%, preferably 0.5 to 3.5%, of preferably from 1 to 3%, by weight, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of said fatty alcohols is in the range of 1 to 20%, preferably 1.5 to 15%, preferably 2 to 12%, preferably 3 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

20. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which said major fatty alcohol is chosen from: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol, preferably chosen from cetearyl alcohol.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said major fatty alcohol is present in the composition in a content in the range of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, preferably 2 to 6% by weight, preferably 3 to 5% by weight, on the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total fatty alcohol content to the total APG content is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than 1.

23. An aqueous emulsifying formulating base composition, characterized in that it is of a composition in accordance with any one of the preceding claims.

24. Use of a formulating base composition, in particular an aqueous emulsifying composition, according to claim 23, for the manufacture of at least one cosmetic product with a personalized texture, in which said aqueous composition is mixed, preferably in blocks, with one or more other compositions or blocks, in particular pre-formulated, said mixing being carried out preferably at a temperature in the range of 15 to 50°C, preferably at room temperature in the range of 20 to 30°C, preferably at a temperature close to 25°C, preferably with stirring at a stirring speed in the range of 200 to 3000 rpm, preferably 200 to 2000 rpm, preferably 200 to 1000 rpm, preferably directly in the final container of said cosmetic product.

25. A process for manufacturing a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, comprising at least the following steps: - heating and mixing ingredients A) to D) at a temperature in the range of 50 to 85°C, preferably 60 to 80°C until a homogeneous aqueous dispersion of said fatty substances in the aqueous phase is obtained; - cooling the dispersion thus obtained to a temperature below 30°C; - recovering the composition, in particular the formulating base, according to the invention.

26. Kit comprising: - On the one hand a basic formula composition (a) of composition in accordance with any one of claims 1 to 23, and - On the other hand one or more compositions (b), in which said compositions respectively (b) and (a) are packaged separately and intended to be mixed extemporaneously, preferably at a temperature below 30°C, to form a cosmetic product, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular a makeup, makeup removal, cleansing or care product for the skin, mucous membranes, superficial body growths or hair.

27. ​​Non-therapeutic process for caring for, making up or removing make-up from the skin, including the scalp, hair and / or lips, comprising the application to the skin, hair and / or lips of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 23.