Composition comprising an oil, a water-soluble alcohol, and a non-ionic guar gum

Abstract

Composition comprising an oil, a water-soluble alcohol, and a nonionic guar gum. The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one oil, (d) at least one nonionic guar gum, and (e) water in an amount of 35% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for the abstract: NONE

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising an oil, a water-soluble alcohol, and a nonionic guar gum. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising an oil, a water-soluble alcohol and non-ionic guar gum, in particular a cosmetic composition for keratinous substances, comprising these. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] In the field of cosmetics, cosmetic compositions that provide skincare effects are increasingly sought after by users. To achieve these skincare effects, active agents are generally included in the compositions. In cosmetic compositions containing active cosmetic agents for keratinous substances, an oil may be used as a medium in the formulation to ensure good penetration of the active agents into the keratinous substances.

[0003] For example, document JP-T-2020-514263 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising from 30% to 89% by weight of at least one polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition, from 10% to 45% by weight of at least one C2-C6 aliphatic monoalcohol relative to the total weight of the composition, and from 0.5% to 50% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one hydrophilic active agent, said composition comprising less than 7% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0004] However, cosmetic compositions comprising an oil and a water-soluble alcohol pose a problem because these compositions can cause a greasy feeling during application. Therefore, there is still a demand for cosmetic compositions comprising an oil and a water-soluble alcohol, which are more stable and can provide a good texture. (Disclosure of the invention)

[0005] An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition comprising an oil and an alcohol, which can provide an improved sensation to keratinous materials, such as skin, scalp and hair.

[0006] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0007] (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent,

[0008] (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0009] (c) at least one oil,

[0010] (d) at least one non-ionic guar gum, and

[0011] (e) water in an amount of 30% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] (d) at least one non-ionic guar gum may be a hydroxyalkyl guar gum, preferably a hydroxyalkyl guar gum having hydroxyalkyl groups at C1 to C6, more preferably a hydroxypropyl guar gum or a hydroxyethyl guar gum, and in particular a hydroxypropyl guar gum.

[0013] (d) at least one non-ionic guar gum may have a degree of substitution greater than 0.6, preferably 0.7 or more, more preferably 0.8 or more, even more preferably 0.9 or more, preferably 1.0 or more, and in particular 1.1 or more.

[0014] (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one triol in combination.

[0015] (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol may be present in the composition in an amount from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 65% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] (c) at least one oil may be chosen from ester oils, fatty alcohols and their combinations.

[0017] The quantity of (c) at least one oil may range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent may be selected from moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, an ingredient promoting blood circulation, antibacterial agents and mixtures thereof.

[0019] The quantity of (a) the at least one hydrophilic active agent may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, more preferably still from 2% to 10% by weight or more, and in particular from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The quantity of (e) water (e) can be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] In one embodiment of the composition according to the present invention, it present in the form of a homogeneous solution.

[0022] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a non-rinse type cosmetic composition.

[0023] The (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one diol, and the amount of the at least one diol may range from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or conditioning of a keratinous material, such as skin, scalp and / or hair, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention.

[0025] The cosmetic process may not include a step of rinsing or washing off the composition applied within one hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after application of the composition. Best embodiment of the invention

[0026] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that the use of a specific non-ionic guar gum can provide a composition comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent and specific amounts of at least one water-soluble alcohol, at least one oil and water with improved stability while avoiding greasy sensations during application, and have thus realized the present invention.

[0027] Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0028] (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent,

[0029] (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0030] (c) at least one oil,

[0031] (d) at least one non-ionic guar gum, and

[0032] (e) water in a quantity of 30% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] The cosmetic composition and cosmetic process according to the present invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0034] [Composition]

[0035] The composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol, (c) at least one oil, (d) at least one nonionic guar gum, and (e) water. The ingredients of the com- positions will be described in detail below.

[0036] (Hydrophilic active agent)

[0037] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent. Two or more hydrophilic active agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophilic active agent or a combination of different types of hydrophilic active agents may be used.

[0038] By "hydrophilic active agent" is meant here an active agent for the skin and / or scalp, which is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0039] Examples of hydrophilic active agents include, for instance, moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, an ingredient promoting blood circulation, antibacterial agents and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Preferably, said hydrophilic active agent is selected from C-glycosides, salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0041] In a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from the C-glycosides of the following general formula (I): S^X—R ®

[0042] in which:

[0043] - R indicates a linear alkyl radical in Ci-C4 and in particular in unsubstituted Ci-C2, in particular methyl;

[0044] - S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N- acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

[0045] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)- and preferentially tiellement a -CH(OH)- group;

[0046] and also their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

[0047] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycosidic derivatives of formula (I) more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in particular:

[0048] - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;

[0049] - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;

[0050] - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0051] - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0052] - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0053] - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0054] - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0055] - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0056] - 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;

[0057] - 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;

[0058] - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0059] - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0060] - as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane is used, and even better C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

[0062] According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention may advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, whose INCI name is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, sold in particular under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by NOVEAL. The salts of the C-glycosides of formula (I) that are suitable for the invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples that may be mentioned include salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromide, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, and boric acid. We can also mention salts of organic acids, which may include one or more groups of carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acids.These can be linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively, aromatic acids. These acids may also include one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen and nitrogen, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.

[0063] Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the final preparation step of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples that can be mentioned include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0064] C-glycosides (I) are also known from document WO 02 / 051828.

[0065] In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent selected from salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives, in particular of formula (II) below: Ck .OH (II),

[0066] in which:

[0067] - the radical Ra indicates:

[0068] - a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain, containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0069] - an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, containing one or several double bonds that can be conjugated;

[0070] - an aromatic ring linked to the carbonyl radical directly or by means of chains saturated or unsaturated aliphatics containing 2 to 7 carbon atoms;

[0071] said groups being able to be substituted by one or more identical or different substitutes chosen from:

[0072] (a) halogen atoms,

[0073] (b) the trifluoromethyl group,

[0074] (c) the hydroxyl groups in free form or in esterified form with an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or

[0075] (d) a carboxyl function in free form or in esterified form with an alcohol lower containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0076] - Rb is a hydroxyl group;

[0077] as well as their salts derived from an inorganic or organic base.

[0078] According to one embodiment, the radical Ra indicates:

[0079] - a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain, containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; or

[0080] - an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or several double bonds, conjugated or non-conjugated;

[0081] said hydrocarbon-based chains being able to be substituted by one or more identical or different substituents chosen from:

[0082] (a) halogen atoms;

[0083] (b) the trifluoromethyl group;

[0084] (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or in esterified form with an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; or

[0085] (d) a carboxyl function in free form or in esterified form with an alcohol lower containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0086] as well as their salts obtained by salification with an inorganic or organic base. The compounds most particularly preferred are those in which the Ra radical is a C3-Cn alkyl group.

[0087] Among the particularly preferred compounds of formula (II) are: 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and their corresponding salts. The salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid. 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid will be used more particularly. 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid) is supplied under the name Mexoryl SAB® by the Chimex company.

[0088] Examples of inorganic bases that can be mentioned include hydroxides of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, for example sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or liquid ammonia. Among the organic bases that can be mentioned are amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for example those described in French patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous. The compounds of formula (II) which can be used according to the invention are described in US patents 6,159,479, US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, FR 2,607,498, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549 and EP A-570,230.

[0089] As another hydrophilic active agent, one can cite ingredients that promote blood circulation, such as Dl-a-tocopherol acetate, tocopherol nicotinate, glucosyl hesperidin, hesperidin, caffeine, y-oryzanol, capsaicin, nicotinic acid benzyl ester, and the like.

[0090] As another hydrophilic active agent, an amino acid or its derivative may be cited, such as betaine (trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, [3-alanine], threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, histidine, threonine, tyrosine, taurine, γ-aminobutyric acid, γ-amino-[3-hydroxybutyric acid, carnitine, carnosine, creatine, epsilon aminocaproic acid, tryptophan and the like.

[0091] As another hydrophilic active agent, cite may be given water-soluble polysaccharides, such as gums, for example gellan gum, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, locust bean gum, biosaccharide gum, tamarind gum, quince gum, arabic gum, carrageenan, tara gum, guar gum, galactan, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, curdrane, succinoglucan, etc.; carrageenan; heparin-type substances; alginic acids, and the like.

[0092] The hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, even more preferably 2% by weight or more, and in particular 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] The hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 12% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] The hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight or more, from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, more preferably still from 2% to 10% by weight or more, and in particular from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] (Water-soluble alcohol)

[0096] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol. Two or more water-soluble alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of water-soluble alcohol or a combination of different types of water-soluble alcohols may be used.

[0097] The expression "water-soluble alcohol" here refers to an alcohol that can dissolve in an amount of 0.1 g or more, 0.5 g or more, or 1 g or more in 100 ml of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0098] The water-soluble alcohol of the present invention can be selected from a monoalcohol and a polyol. In certain embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol and at least one polyol in combination.

[0099] Monoalcohol

[0100] The monoalcohol can be a linear or branched monoalcohol, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, bearing a single hydroxyl (OH) function.

[0101] In one embodiment, the monoalcohol can be an aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0102] The expression "aliphatic monoalcohol" here refers to any saturated alkane compound, linear or branched, bearing a single hydroxyl (OH) function.

[0103] The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the invention can be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.

[0104] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol may be chosen from linear aliphatic monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Polyol

[0106] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0107] The polyol which is suitable for use in the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0108] Preferably, a polyol that can be used in the composition according to the invention is a linear or branched alkyl-type compound, preferably linear, bearing at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

[0109] Polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those having in particular 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0110] The polyols that can be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear, having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; examples include:

[0111] - diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, the propylene glycol and butylene glycol; and

[0112] - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

[0113] and their mixtures.

[0114] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol comprises at least one diol and at least one polyol having three or more -OH functions, in particular a triol, in combination.

[0115] The composition according to the present invention comprises the water-soluble alcohol(s) in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] The water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 65% ​​by weight or more, and even more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] The water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 95% by weight or less, preferably of 90% by weight or less, more preferably 85% by weight or less, and even more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] The water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 65% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] In one embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol may be present in an amount of 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, more preferably 60% by weight or more, and even more preferably 65% ​​by weight or more; and may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, more preferably 80% by weight or less, and even more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] In another embodiment of the present invention, the polyol may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 7% by weight or more; and may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 12% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises both the monoalcohol and the polyol, preferably a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount from 40% to 90% by weight and the polyol in an amount from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount from 50% to 85% by weight and the polyol in an amount from 3% to 20% by weight, even more preferably a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount from 60% to 80% by weight and the polyol in an amount from 5% to 15% by weight, and in particular a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount from 65% to 75% by weight and the polyol in an amount from 7% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one diol, and the diol may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more; and may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and preferably even 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] In another embodiment of the present invention, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular a triol, and the polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups may be present in an amount of 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 1.2% by weight or more; and may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises a combination of at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one triol. In this embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises the monoalcohol in an amount from 40% to 90% by weight, the diol in an amount from 1% to 25% by weight, and the triol in an amount from 0.2% to 10% by weight; more preferably, the monoalcohol in an amount from 50% to 85% by weight, the diol in an amount from 2% to 20% by weight, and the triol in an amount from 0.5% to 8% by weight; more preferably the monoalcohol in an amount of 60% to 80% by weight, the diol in an amount of 3% to 15% by weight, and the triol in an amount of 1% to 5% by weight; and in particular the monoalcohol in an amount of 65% to 75% by weight, the diol in an amount of 5% to 10% by weight, and the triol in an amount of 1.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] (Oil)

[0126] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one oil. Two or more types of oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0127] “Oil” here means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of the In the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0128] Among the oils that can be used in the present invention, we can mention: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils can be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0129] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "Hydrocarbon oil" is an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oil does not contain silicon atoms.

[0130] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0131] For the purposes of the present invention, "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C is other than 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0132] In particular, "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one strongly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0133] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article by CM Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0134] According to this Hansen space:

[0135] - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts;

[0136] - ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

[0137] - ôh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base bonds, donor / acceptor bonds, and similar bonds);

[0138] - ôa is determined by the equation: ôa= (ôp2 + ôh2)' / 2.

[0139] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.

[0140] Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have an ôa between 4 and 9.1, preferably an ôa between 6 and 9.1, even better between 7.3 and 9.1.

[0141] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0142] The oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0143] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0144] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0145] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0146] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0147] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0148] The ester oils of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols can be represented by the formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid, preferably linear, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is 3 10.

[0149] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, di-caprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0150] It is preferable that the ester oil be chosen from among the ester oils of fatty acids.

[0151] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and alcohols in CrC22, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar alcohols dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy in C4-C26, can also be used.

[0152] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentylglycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0153] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22, can be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several functional groups. Alcohols, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0154] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0155] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in C6-C30 and preferably in C[2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0156] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0157] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate, palmitostearate, and pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0158] In particular, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0159] One example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0160] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0161] As an ether oil, dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:

[0162] R'-O-R2

[0163] in which

[0164] Each of R1 and R2 independently represents a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-Ci8 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-Ci2 alkyl group. Preferably R1 and R2 are identical.

[0165] Examples of linear alkyl groups include a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group.

[0166] Examples of branched alkyl groups include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, an l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group, and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0167] Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0168] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0169] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0170] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0171] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are oils of silicones as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0172] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0173] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0174] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and their mixtures. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: i— D* — D’-------D” — O--1 rn CH, 1--------------------------------1 CH, ICU with D” ' gf with D* ï O •CH, C»H,3

[0175] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0176] (ii) Volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0177] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing groups trimethylsilyl terminals.

[0178] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

[0179] - Silbione® oils of series 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0180] - the Mirasil® series oils sold by the Rhodia company;

[0181] - Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200, of which the viscosity is 60,000 mm² / s; and

[0182] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) of General Electric.

[0183] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from the Rhodia company.

[0184] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenylsilicone oil.

[0185] The phenylsilicone oil may be selected from phenylsilicones of the following formula:

[0186] in which

[0187] Ri in Rio, independently of each other, are C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

[0188] m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0189] provided that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.

[0190] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:

[0191] - Rhodia's Silbione® oils from the 70 641 series;

[0192] - the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils from Rhodia;

[0193] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0194] - Bayer's PK series silicones, such as product PK20;

[0195] - certain oils in the General Electric SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0196] As a phenylsilicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (Ri to R10 are methyl groups; p, qetn = 0; m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0197] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0198] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0199] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane;

[0200] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and squalane; and

[0201] - mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9-12 alkane, C10-13 alkane, alkane in C13-14, Alkane in C13-15, Alkane in C14-17, Alkane in C14-19, Alkane in C15-19, Alkane in C15-23, Alkane in C18-21, Alkane in C8-9 / Cycloalkane, Alkane in C9-10 / Cycloalkane, Alkane in C9-ll / Cycloalkane, C9-16 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C10-12 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cll-14 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cll-15 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C12-13 Alkane / Cycloalkane.

[0202] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0203] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohols means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the category of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0204] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R can be chosen from the alkyl groups in the Ci2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the Ci2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0205] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, pannitoleyl alcohol, arachidonic alcohol, erucic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0206] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0207] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, preferably linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, saturated, and more preferably linear or branched Ci2-C20 alcohols, saturated.

[0208] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be selected from any linear or branched C6-C30 saturated fatty alcohol. Among linear or branched C6-C30 saturated fatty alcohols, linear or branched Ci2-C20 saturated fatty alcohols may be used preferably. Any linear or branched Ci6-C20 saturated fatty alcohol may be used even more preferably. Branched Ci6-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferably.

[0209] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0210] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] It is also preferable that the oil be chosen from among oils whose molecular mass is less than 600 g / mol.

[0212] Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol, selected from ester oils with one or more short hydrocarbon chains (CrCi2) (for example, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isonyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (for example, volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (for example, isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol (Ci2-C30) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylic ether.

[0213] Preferably, the oil should be chosen from among polar oils, and more preferably from among ester oils, fatty alcohols, and a combination thereof. It is further preferable that the oil should comprise both ester oils and fatty alcohols, in particular monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols represented by the formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear fatty acid comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and the fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from among saturated branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0214] The quantity of oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 4% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0215] The quantity of oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] The quantity of oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0217] In one specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more N-acylaminated acid ester oils in an amount of less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition is free of N-acylaminated acid ester oil. Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate is an example of an N-acylaminated acid ester oil.

[0218] (Non-ionic guar gum)

[0219] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one nonionic guar gum. Two or more types of nonionic guar gums may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of nonionic guar gum or a combination of different types of nonionic guar gums may be used.

[0220] The term "nonionic guar gum" herein refers to guar gum that is modified by at least one nonionic functional group. The functional group may be a hydroxyalkyl group, for example, a hydroxyalkyl group in C1 to C6. Therefore, in one embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic guar gum is a hydroxyalkyl guar gum, preferably a hydroxyalkyl guar gum having hydroxyalkyl groups in C1 to C6, more preferably a hydroxypropyl guar gum or a hydroxyethyl guar gum, and in particular a hydroxypropyl guar gum.

[0221] Guar gum is a complex carbohydrate polymer consisting essentially of a linear chain of mannose units with single-membered galactose branches; chemically classified as a polygalactomannan. The mannose units are linked by a 1,4-beta-glycosidic bond, and the galactose branching occurs via a 1,6-linkage on alternating mannose units. The ratio of galactose to mannose in the guar polymer is therefore one to two.

[0222] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, nonionic guar gum, in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum, has a degree of substitution greater than 0.6. The term "degree of substitution" here refers to the average substitution of nonionic groups per anhydrosugar motif in polygalactomannan gums. In guar gum, since the basic motif of the polymer consists of two mannose motifs with a glycosidic bond and a galactose motif attached to a hydroxyl group of one of the mannose motifs, each of the anhydrosugar motifs contains three available hydroxyl sites on average. A degree of substitution of three would mean that all available hydroxyl sites have been esterified with the nonionic groups.

[0223] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, nonionic guar gum, in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum, has a degree of substitution of 0.7 or more, more preferably of 0.8 or more, even more preferably of 0.9 or more, preferably of 1.0 or more, and in particular of 1.1 or more.

[0224] The degree of substitution of the nonionic guar gum of the present invention, in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum, is not particularly limited, and thus it may be 3.0 or less.

[0225] Nonionic guar gum, in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum, may advantageously have a weight-average molecular mass of 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably 200,000 g / mol to 5,000,000 g / mol, and more preferably 1,000,000 g / mol to 5,000,000 g / mol. The weight-average molecular mass can be measured here using, for example, gas permeation chromatography.

[0226] Examples of commercially available non-ionic guar gum products include:

[0227] - hydroxypropyl guar gum sold under the name Jaguar ® HP 120 by SOLVAY; and

[0228] - hydroxypropyl guar gum sold under the name Jaguar ® HSG by SOLVAY.

[0229] The quantity of the non-ionic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0230] The quantity of the non-ionic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 2% by weight or less, and even more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] The quantity of the non-ionic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] (Water)

[0233] The composition according to the present invention may include water.

[0234] The composition according to the present invention comprises water in a quantity of 35% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] (Other ingredients)

[0239] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more of the adjuvants commonly used in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular gold solvents water-soluble organics; cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwit-terionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; thickeners; penetration agents; a pH adjuster; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers; emollients; lipophilic active agents; free radical scavengers; suspending agents; sequestering agents; a buffer; perfumes; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and / or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; opacifying agents; agents that may produce a cooling sensation, such as menthol; and mixtures thereof.

[0240] The composition according to the present invention may further include plant extracts, such as extracts from Nymphaeaceae, for example, an extract of Nymphaea alba root.

[0241] Of course, persons skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition.

[0242] The adjuvants may be present in the second composition of the present invention in an amount ranging preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] The composition according to the present invention can take various forms, such as a solution, gel, lotion, serum, suspension, dispersion, fluid, milk, paste, cream, foam, emulsion (in O / W or W / O form), multiple emulsions (e.g., W / O / W, polyol / O / W and W / O / O), and the like. In one specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a solution, in particular a homogeneous solution. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "homogeneous" means a composition consisting of a single phase.

[0244] In one specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises surfactants, such as cationic, anionic, nonionic, or amphoteric surfactants, which are different from components (a) to (d) of the present invention, in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition is free of any surfactant different from components (a) to (d) of the present invention.

[0245] The composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, in particular on keratinous materials.

[0246] For the purposes of the present invention, "keratinous materials" means skin and keratinous fibers. The term "skin" used here includes the skin of the face and / or body and the scalp. The term "keratinous fiber" used here includes eyelashes, eyebrows, and hair.

[0247] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended for topical application to keratinous materials such as the scalp and hair. In some embodiments, the composition may be a hair care composition and / or a scalp care composition and / or a skin care composition.

[0248] The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended for use as a leave-on cosmetic composition. The term "leave-on" refers to a composition that is not intended to be washed off / rinsed or removed immediately after application. A leave-on composition differs from a rinse-off composition, which is intended to be removed by rinsing after use on keratinous materials.

[0249] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above in accordance with any of the processes well known to persons skilled in the art.

[0250] [Cosmetic process and use]

[0251] The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care or conditioning of a keratinous material, such as hair, scalp and / or skin, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention.

[0252] The cosmetic process here refers to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or conditioning of keratinous material.

[0253] The application step can be carried out by any conventional means such as an applicator, for example the hands, a sprayer, and a brush. The application step can be a topical application step.

[0254] The composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on cosmetic composition. Therefore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not include a step of rinsing or washing the composition applied to the keratinous material after the application step. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic process of the present invention does not include a step of rinsing or washing the applied composition within one hour, preferably within two hours, more preferably within four hours, and even more preferably within eight hours after the step application.

[0255] In addition, the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in the field of cosmetics, in particular the care and / or conditioning of a keratinous material. EXAMPLES

[0256] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0257] (Preparation)

[0258] The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The Jaguar® HP 120 and Jaguar® HSG hydroxypropyl guar gum products were obtained from Solvay. The MEXORYL SCN® hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol product was obtained from NOVEAL. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on the "% by weight" as active raw materials.

[0259] (Stability)

[0260] 10 g of each of the compositions obtained were stored at 4 °C, 25 °C, and 45 °C for two months after their manufacture, respectively. The stability property was evaluated for each composition according to the following criteria.

[0261] OK: the composition has been thickened at 4°C, 25°C, and 45°C.

[0262] NG: The composition was not thickened, the ingredient was not soluble, or a se Phase separation occurred at 4°C, 25°C, and / or 45°C.

[0263] [Tables 1] Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 1 comp. Ex. 2 comp. Ex. 3 comp. Ex. 4 comp. Ex. 5 comp. Ex. 6 comp. Ex. 7 comp. Ethanol 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 68.17 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 Glycerin 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Propylene glycol 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 Nymphaea Alba root extract 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Isostearyl alcohol 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Isopropyl Myristate 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Menthol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Perfume 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hydroxypropyl Guar Gum (Jaguar® HP 120) 0.4 - - - - - - - - Hydroxypropyl Guar Gum (Jaguar® HP HSG) - 0.4 - - - - - - - Hydroxypropyl Guar Gum (Jaguar® HP8 (COS)SGI) - - 0.4 - - - - - - Hydroxypropyl Cellulose - - - 1 - - - - - Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose - - - - 0.4 - - - - Sclerotium Gum - - - - - 0.4 - - - Dehydroxanthan gum - - - - - - 0.4 - - Copolymer of acrylates - - - - - - - 0.4 - cross-linked polymer PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 - - - - - - - - 0.4 Deionized water qs 0 qs 0 qs0 qs0 qs0 qs 1 qs qs 100 100 100 100 100 Evaluation Stability OK OK NG NG NG NG

[0264] As can be seen from the results in Table 1, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 could be thickened with ingredients (a) to (e) of the present invention, and thus demonstrated good stability. In contrast, the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 7, which do not include the nonionic guar gum of the present invention, did not demonstrate good stability. Specifically, in the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1, 3 to 5, and 7, the hydroxypropyl guar gum (Jaguar® HP8 (COS) SGI), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, sclerotium gum, and the PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 crosslinked polymer of dehydroxanthan gum, respectively, were not dissolved in the composition, and therefore the thickening effect was not achieved. In the composition according to Comparative Example 2, no thickening effect was achieved. In the composition according to comparative example 6, a phase separation was observed.

[0265] (Sensory evaluations)

[0266] Three strands of hair (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each hair strand was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. The formulation of the clarifying shampoo is shown in Table 2 below. After shampooing, the hair strand was rinsed with water and then towel-dried. 0.2 g of each of the compositions from Example 1 and Comparative Example 8 were applied to each hair strand. The hair strand was left on for 5 minutes. The composition from Comparative Example 8 was prepared in the same way as that of Example 1. The hair strand was rinsed under running water and then blow-dried to obtain a treated hair strand. The formulations of Comparative Example 7 and Example 1 are shown in Table 3. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of ingredients in Tables 2 and 3 are all based on the "% by weight" of the active raw materials.

[0267] The oily and soft feel of the treated hair strand was evaluated by 5 panelists according to the following criteria. The reference point refers to the result of . the evaluation of the hair strand itself, that is to say without the application of any composition.

[0268] 5: Much greater than the reference point

[0269] 4: Greater than the reference point

[0270] 3: Parity with the reference point

[0271] 2: Lower than the reference point

[0272] 1: Much below the reference point

[0273] The average of the scores thus obtained was calculated. The results are shown in the row entitled "Sensory Evaluations" of Table 3.

[0274] (Sweetness (CDF))

[0275] Three strands of hair (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each strand was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. The formulation of the clarifying shampoo is shown in Table 2 below. After shampooing, the strand was rinsed with water and then towel-dried. 0.2 g of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 8 were applied to each strand of hair and left for 5 minutes. The strand was then rinsed under running water for a maximum of 5 seconds and then air-dried at room temperature (24°C / 40% RH) for at least 30 minutes to obtain a treated strand of hair.

[0276] The treated hair strand was placed on a plate, and its root end was secured to the plate with a hair clip. The softness of the treated hair strand was assessed by sweeping the hair strand from root to tip with a sensor (Handy Rub Tester (type TL701) from Trinity Lab) and measuring the CDF (Coefficient of Friction). The measurement was performed three times for a single treated hair strand. The same procedure was carried out with two other hair strands to obtain a total of nine results for one composition, and the average values ​​were calculated for each composition. A lower result indicates a greater softness effect.

[0277] The CDF of the hair strand itself was 0.20.

[0278] The results are shown on the line entitled “Sweetness (CDF)” in Table 3. The smaller the CDF, the greater the sweetness.

[0279] [Tables2] Ingredients: Cleansing Shampoo: Hexylene Glycol 1, Sodium Chloride 1, Coco-Betaine 9, Sodium Laureth Sulfate 15, Polyquaternium-10 0.3, Sodium Benzoate 0.5, Salicylic Acid 0.2, Citric Acid q.s. pH 5.3, Sodium Hydroxide q.s. pH 5.3, Water (DI) q.s. 100

[0280] [Tables3] Ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 8 comp. Ethanol 68.17 68.17 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 8.7 8.7 Glycerin 1.5 1.5 Propylene glycol 7 7 Nymphaea Alba root extract 0.25 0.25 Isostearyl alcohol 1 1 Isopropyl myristate 5 5 Menthol 0.3 0.3 Parfum 0.5 0.5 Hydroxypropyl guar gum (Jaguar® HP 120) 0.4 - Deionized water qs 100 qs 100 Evaluation Sensory evaluations Softness 4 3 Oiliness 2.41 2.92 Softness (CDF) 0.2 0.23

[0281] As shown by the results in Table 3, the composition according to Example 1 was able to give the hair a better texture, i.e. a softer and less oily texture.

[0282] Therefore, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is entirely suitable as a cosmetic composition, in particular as a topical cosmetic composition for keratinous materials. In particular, the composition according to the present invention is very useful as a leave-on topical cosmetic composition because it has a soft and less greasy texture, even though it comprises an oil and a water-soluble alcohol.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising: (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one oil, (d) at least one nonionic guar gum having a degree of substitution greater than 0.6, and (e) water in an amount of 30% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein (d) at least one nonionic guar gum is a hydroxyalkyl guar gum, preferably a hydroxyalkyl guar gum having hydroxyalkyl groups at C1 to C6, more preferably a hydroxypropyl guar gum or a hydroxyethyl guar gum, and in particular a hydroxypropyl guar gum.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (d) at least one nonionic guar gum has a degree of substitution greater than 0.7, more preferably 0.8 or more, more preferably 0.9 or more, preferably 1.0 or more, and in particular 1.1 or more.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one triol in combination.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein (c) at least one oil is selected from ester oils, fatty alcohols having at least 4 carbon atoms, and combinations thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent is selected from moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents; desquamating agents; anti-aging agents; mattifying agents; healing agents; an ingredient promoting blood circulation; antibacterial agents; and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is in the form of a homogeneous solution.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, which is a no-rinse type cosmetic composition.

9. Cosmetic process for the care and / or conditioning of a keratinous material, such as skin, scalp and / or hair, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.

10. A cosmetic process according to claim 9, which does not include a step of rinsing or washing off the applied composition within one hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after application of the composition.