Cosmetic composition comprising one or more specific anionic surfactants, one or more hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycosides and one or more specific carboxylic acids

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising one or more particular anionic surfactants, one or more hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycosides and one or more specific carboxylic acids The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants of sulfosuccina(ma)te type (a), one or more hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycosides (b), and one or more compounds chosen from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), salts thereof and derivatives thereof. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising one or more particular anionic surfactants, one or more hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycosides and one or more specific carboxylic acids

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cleaning and conditioning keratinous materials, and in particular human keratinous materials such as hair and skin, which comprises one or more particular anionic surfactants, one or more hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycosides and one or more compounds chosen from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, its salts and its derivatives.

[0002] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning and conditioning keratinous materials using this composition.

[0003] Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for cleaning and conditioning keratinous materials.

[0004] Anionic surfactants are generally used in compositions for cleaning keratinous materials and are known for their good foaming and cleaning properties. However, anionic surfactants such as alkyl ether sulfates and benzyl sulfonates generally irritate the skin and eyes. Therefore, most products intended for babies or sensitive skin, also called "mild compositions", do not contain such surfactants. Other mild compositions include, for example, non-ionic and / or amphoteric surfactants. Such compositions are described, for example, in US 2009 / 036 339. However, they tend to suffer from poor foaming and cleaning performance.

[0005] There is therefore a need to provide a gentle cleansing and care composition that can be used as a rinse-off or leave-in product to effectively remove dirt, sweat, sebum and other inorganic particles from keratinous materials such as hair and skin.

[0006] The applicant has now discovered that the combination of one or more anionic surfactants of the sulfosuccina(ma)te type, one or more hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycosides and one or more compounds chosen from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof, makes it possible to achieve the objectives described above.

[0007] Thus, an object of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0008] (a) one or more anionic surfactants of sulfosuccina(ma)te type,

[0009] (b) one or more hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycosides, and

[0010] (c) one or more compounds chosen from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), salts thereof and derivatives thereof such as those defined below.

[0011] The composition according to the invention is gentler and less aggressive than conventional shampoos, in particular with regard to protein denaturation. It can be used as a leave-in cleanser.

[0012] This composition makes it possible to improve the cleaning and conditioning of keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as hair and skin. In particular, it has an improved foaming property and a cleaning efficiency at least equal to that of shampoos containing anionic surfactants of the prior art.

[0013] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleaning and conditioning keratinous materials using this composition.

[0014] Another object of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for cleaning and conditioning keratinous materials.

[0015] In the present invention, the term “keratinous materials” designates human keratinous materials, and in particular hair and skin.

[0016] The composition may be applied directly or via a spray or pump bottle. The composition may be used as a shampoo or liquid body wash or as another cleansing product.

[0017] Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

[0018] In the following text, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0019] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0020] According to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises:

[0021] (a) one or more anionic surfactants of sulfosuccina(ma)te type,

[0022] (b) one or more hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycosides, preferably one or several hydroxyalkyl (poly)glycosides, and

[0023] (c) one or more compounds chosen from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, salts of it and derivatives thereof as defined below.

[0024] Anionic surfactant(s) of sulfosuccina(ma)te type (a)

[0025] Sulfosuccina(ma)te anionic surfactants include surfactants anionic surfactants of the sulfosuccinate and sulfosuccinamate type, which are known to be mild surfactants. They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfosuccinates, dialkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidosulfo- succinates, alkylamido ether sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, dialkylsulfosuccinamates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinamates; and salts thereof. The alkyl groups of these compounds preferably comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, more preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. These compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 alkylene oxide units and more preferably from 2 to 10 alkylene oxide units, the alkylene oxide units being in particular ethylene oxide units.

[0026] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.

[0027] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0028] Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0029] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) (a) may be used in the invention alone or as a mixture of two or more anionic surfactants.

[0030] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) (a) is (are) chosen from anionic surfactants of sulfosuccinate type. More preferably, it (they) may be chosen from:

[0031] - C8-C24 and in particular C10-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, better still laurylsulfo- succinates;

[0032] - C8-C24 and in particular C10-C20 dialkylsulfosuccinates;

[0033] - C8-C24 and in particular C10-C20 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, comprising preferably from 1 to 5 alkylene oxide groups, more preferably from 1 to 5 ethylene oxide groups, better still laurylsulfosuccinates comprising from 1 to 5 ethylene oxide groups, even better from 2 to 4 ethylene oxide groups; and

[0034] - mixtures thereof,

[0035] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

[0036] Preferably, the anionic surfactants (a) are chosen from salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, C8-C24 alkylsulfosuccinate salts, C8-C24 dialkylsulfosuccinate salts and of C8-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates.

[0037] More preferably, the anionic surfactants (a) are chosen from salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts, of C8-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates.

[0038] The anionic surfactant(s) (a) is (are) preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention does not comprise an anionic surfactant of sulfate type such as an alkyl sulfate and / or an alkyl ether sulfate.

[0040] Hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly) glycoside(s) (b)

[0041] The term "hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycoside" means a hydroxyhydrocarbyl polyglycoside or a hydroxyhydrocarbyl monoglycoside, also called hydroxyhydrocarbyl glycoside in the present patent application. It comprises one or more glycosidic rings carrying directly or via a divalent group, preferably directly, one or more hydrocarbon groups substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, said divalent group being optionally substituted. Said hydrocarbon group may be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O and / or N. Said hydroxyhydrocarbyl glycoside may be alkoxylated with one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferably C2-C4.

[0042] Preferably, the hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycoside is a hydroxyalkyl (poly)glycoside.

[0043] The hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycoside (b) used, alone or in mixture, according to the The present invention can be represented by the following general formula:

[0044] R1O-(R2O)t- (G)v (I)

[0045] in which:

[0046] - Ri represents: • a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, comprising 1 to 12 carbon atoms and in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, or • a saturated or unsaturated heterocyclic group comprising 5 to 10 carbon atoms and one or more heteroatoms such as O and N, and carrying one or more groups chosen from hydroxy, linear or branched C1-C10, preferably C1-C6 alkyl groups, a ketone function, and mixtures thereof, said alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxy groups;

[0047] - R2 represents an alkylene group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0048] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0049] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4,

[0050] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0051] Preferably, the hydroxyhydrocarbyl(poly)glycoside(s) (b) is (are) a compound(s) of formula described above in which:

[0052] - Ri denotes a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, or an unsaturated heterocyclic group at C5 or C6 comprising O and carrying a ketone function, a hydroxy group and a dihydroxyethyl group,

[0053] - R2 represents an alkylene group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0054] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

[0055] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0056] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0057] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycoside is a hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glucoside.

[0058] Preferably, the hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glucoside(s) is (are) chosen from:

[0059] - xylityl glucoside and xylityl polyglucoside of formula:

[0060] with x = 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4

[0061] and

[0062] - ascorbyl glucoside of formula: HOV OH

[0063] Xylityl glucoside having the formula (II) above in which x = 1 is more particularly used in the composition of the invention.

[0064] The hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycoside(s), preferably the hydroxyalkyl (poly)glycoside(s), (b) is (are) present in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.2% to 5%, and better still from 0.5% to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), its salts or its derivatives (c)

[0066] The composition of the invention comprises one or more compounds chosen from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof.

[0067] Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) has the following formula:.

[0068] Examples of salts that may be mentioned are alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts such as those defined above. The alkali metal salts are particularly preferred, and more preferably, the sodium salt of PCA is used:.

[0069] The pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) derivatives may be chosen from the compounds of formula (III): (III)

[0070] in which:

[0071] R3 is H, a C1-6 alkyl group, an alkali metal such as sodium and potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, or an amino alcohol as defined above,

[0072] R4 is H, a C1-6 alkyl group, a C1-6 acyl group, a C2-6 alkenyl group, a C1-6 alkoxy group, a carboxy group -COOR or an alkoxycarbonyl group -O-COR with R = a C1-6 alkyl group,

[0073] at least one of R3 or R4 being different from H, and

[0074] with the proviso that when R3 is an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, an ammonium or an amino alcohol, R4 is not H.

[0075] The alkyl group may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group. Preferably, the alkyl group is a linear or branched C, 6 alkyl group, more preferably a C, 4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an i-propyl group and a butyl group. On the other hand, the alkyl group may be a C, 6 cyclic alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl group or a cyclohexyl group.

[0076] As examples of acyl group, mention may be made of a C,6 acyl group such as a formyl group or an acetyl group.

[0077] The C2_6 alkenyl group may be a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group or a hexenyl group.

[0078] Examples of C1-6 alkoxy group are methoxy group, ethoxy group and propoxy group.

[0079] The C1-6 alkoxycarbonyl group may be a methoxycarbonyl group, an ethoxycarbonyl group or a propoxycarbonyl group.

[0080] The above substituent may be further substituted with at least one group such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group and an aromatic group such as a phenyl group.

[0081] Preferably, the compound selected from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof (c) is selected from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid salts, in particular sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA-Na or sodium PCA).

[0082] The compound(s) chosen from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof (c) are present in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% to 10%, better still from 0.05% to 5%, better still from 0.1 to 3% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083]

[0084] The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a total water content ranging from 60% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 75% to 98% by weight, better still from 80% to 97% by weight, and better still from 85 to 96% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086]

[0087] Optional adjuvant(s)

[0088] The cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair compositions, chosen from surfactants non-ionic surfactants other than the non-ionic surfactants (b) defined above, for example, polyalkoxylated fatty alcohols, poloxamers, polysorbates; amphoteric surfactants, for example, coco-betaines; cationic surfactants, for example, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride; volatile solvents, for example, low viscosity di-methicone, cycloalkanes, volatile alkanes, esters; cationic polymers, for example, cationic guars or acrylamide copolymers; thickeners; fatty liquid components such as vegetable oils or mineral oils; and mixtures thereof.

[0089] The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01% and 40% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention.

[0090] It goes without saying that the person skilled in the art will take care to choose this (these) optional adjuvant(s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not significantly, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0091]

[0092] In one embodiment, the total amount of surfactants including surfactants (a) and (b), in the composition according to the invention is less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight of the composition.

[0093] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and conditioning keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as hair and skin, which consists of applying to said keratinous materials a cosmetic composition as described above, and after an optional exposure time, optionally removing it by rinsing, for example with water.

[0094] The application time of the composition on keratinous materials can range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.

[0095] The composition can be applied to wet or dry keratinous materials.

[0096] Preferably, the cosmetic composition is not rinsed with water.

[0097] Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as described above for cleaning and conditioning keratinous materials.

[0098] In the above description, all preferred embodiments with respect to the components can be used individually or in combination.

[0099] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention. Examples

[0100] In the examples which follow and unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are given

[0101]

[0102]

[0103]

[0104]

[0105]

[0106]

[0107]

[0108] in weight percentages of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 The following compositions were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. Composition 1 2 3 Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate 1.675 1.675 1.675 Xylityl glucoside 1.2 1.2 1.2 Anhydroxylitol 0.81 0.81 0.81 Xylitol 0.51 0.51 0.51 Sodium PCA 0.3 0.3 0.3 Laureth-12 - - 1 Menthol 0.5 0.4 0.5 Fragrance, preservative qs qs qs Water qs 100 100 100 These compositions can be used as leave-in cleansers; they are as effective as conventional shampoos in terms of cleaning. They give the hair a good feeling of cleanliness and leave it individualized. In addition, these compositions are gentler than classic shampoos containing detergent surfactants. These compositions, when used as a leave-in product, can advantageously replace classic shampoos and do not require the use of water (no rinsing step). Example 2 The cleaning efficacy (sebum removal) was studied using the following method with artificial sebum. The composition of artificial sebum is as follows. The components below were diluted in 50 ml of heptane. - squalene 16% by weight - triolein 38% by weight - oleic acid 22% by weight - oleyl oleate 20% by weight - cholesteryl oleate 1% by weight - cholesterol 3% by weight

[0109] Three strands of natural Indian hair, each weighing 1 g, were soaked in artificial sebum overnight, then removed and dried at room temperature (25 °C). Each soiled strand of hair was weighed. Approximately 6 mg of sebum was deposited on each strand.

[0110] 0.4 g of composition 1 of example 1 was applied to each strand of soiled hair, followed by wiping with a damp tissue (wet wipe), 3 times on the front side and 3 times on the back side. The percentage of sebum removal for each strand of hair treated was then quantified as follows:

[0111] - the treated wick was cut into pieces about 0.5 cm long,

[0112] - 100 mg of cut hair strand was weighed and 1 ml of heptane added,

[0113] - heptane extraction was carried out using a thermomixer, at 1500 rpm / minute, for 3 hours at room temperature,

[0114] - the analysis of the solution was carried out by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector (GC-FID) to quantify the sebum remaining on treated hair.

[0115] A comparative composition containing 3% by weight of sodium laureth (1 ethylene oxide unit) sulfate (SLES) in water was applied to other soiled strands in the same manner as that used for composition 1.

[0116] The test was carried out in triplicate for each composition tested.

[0117] It was observed that the % of sebum removed from soiled hair strands cleaned with cleaning composition 1 is 92.37 ± 0.75%, while the % of sebum removed from soiled hair strands cleaned with the comparative composition is 82.08 ± 0.21%.

[0118] Therefore, the composition according to the invention (composition 1) is more effective for cleaning soiled hair compared to the comparative composition comprising a conventional anionic surfactant SLES. Example 3

[0119] The softness of Composition 2 of Example 1 was evaluated using a zein protein solubility test, and compared to that of a comparative composition comprising 1.5% by weight of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) in water.

[0120] Zein is a yellow corn protein that can be denatured and solubilized in water after contact with a surfactant. The ability of surfactants to denature and solubilize zein is related to their mildness potential. The lower the percentage of solubilized zein, the milder the composition.

[0121] The following protocol was used to evaluate softness:

[0122] - 100 mL of an aqueous solution (1.5% w / w) of sodium lauryl sulfate or of composition to be tested were prepared;

[0123] - 10.0 mL of the above solutions were taken using a micropipette and kept as blanks for the respective samples;

[0124] - 1.0 g of zein was added to the remaining 90 ml of each solution and equilibrated for 45 min under constant stirring at 200 rpm, the supernatant solutions were filtered through a 0.45 qm nylon filter;

[0125] - 20 ql of the sample solution was diluted to 1 mL using water and mixed thoroughly ;

[0126] - 400 ql of Lowry 2X concentrate was added, mixed and left at 25°C for 10 minutes;

[0127] - 400 ql of 0.2 N Folin's reagent was added, mixed and left at 25 °C for 30 minutes;

[0128] - the absorbance of the solutions was measured at 750 nm with a microplate reader Tecan Infinity M200 PRO multimode using 96-well plates; and

[0129] - the % zein score was calculated as follows:

[0130] Net absorbance of sample at 750 nm = A75onm Sample - A75onm Blank

[0131] Zein % score

[0132] Net absorbance of 1 sample xi 00 Net absorbance of SLS

[0133] 17.76% of solubilized zein was obtained with composition 2 while 100% were obtained with the comparative composition containing SLS.

Claims

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more anionic surfactants of the sulfosuccina(ma)te type, (b) one or more hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycosides, and (c) one or more compounds selected from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), salts thereof and derivatives thereof, wherein the total amount of surfactants, including surfactants (a) and (b), in the composition is less than 5% by weight of the composition.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the anionic surfactant(s) (a) is (are) chosen from alkylsulfosuccinates, dialkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidosulfosuccinates, alkylamido ether sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, dialkylsulfosuccinamates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinamates and salts thereof, the alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 24, better still from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, these compounds being optionally polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated; better among C8-C24 and in particular C10-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, C8-C24 and in particular C10-C20 dialkylsulfosuccinates and C8-C24 and in particular C10-C20 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the anionic surfactant(s) (a) is (are) present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycoside(s) (b) is (are) represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t- (G)v (I) in which: - Ri represents: • a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, comprising 1 to 12 carbon atoms and in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, or • a saturated or unsaturated heterocyclic group comprising 5 to 10 carbon atoms and one or more heteroatoms such as O and N, and carrying one or more groups chosen from hydroxy, linear or branched C1-C10, preferably C1-C6 alkyl groups, a ketone function, and mixtures thereof, said alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxy groups; - R2 represents an alkylene group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4, - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hydroxyhydrocarbyl (poly)glycoside(s) (b) is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.5% to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the pyrrolidone carboxylic acid derivatives correspond to the following formula (III): (HD in which: R3 is H, a C1-6 alkyl group, an alkali metal such as sodium and potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, an ammonium, or an amino alcohol, IG is H, a C1-6 alkyl group, a C1-6 acyl group, a C2-6 alkenyl group, a C1-6 alkoxy group, a carboxy group -COOR or an alkoxycarbonyl group -O-COR with R = C1-6 alkyl group at least one of the groups R3 or R4 being other than H, provided that when R3 is an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, an ammonium or an amino alcohol, R4 is not H.

7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the compound(s) selected from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, salts thereof and derivatives thereof (c) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and conditioning keratinous materials, in particular human keratinous materials such as hair and skin, consisting of applying to said keratinous materials a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, and after a possible exposure time, optionally removing it by rinsing, for example with water.

9. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, for cleaning and conditioning keratinous materials.