Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanin and a polyionic complex

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanin and a polyionic complex The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising: a) at least one merocyanin of the following formula (3): [Formula 3] and b) at least one polyionic complex containing at least one cationic polysaccharide and at least one crosslinking agent selected from non-polymer acids having at least three pKa values ​​and their salts.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanine and a polyionic complex

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one merocyanine of formula (3) which will be defined in detail below and at least one polyionic complex containing at least one cationic polysaccharide and at least one crosslinking agent chosen from non-polymeric acids having at least three pKa values ​​and their salts.

[0002] The present invention also relates to the use of at least one such merocyanine of formula (3) for reducing the staining of fabrics, in particular clothing, after washing.

[0003] It is known that radiation with a wavelength between 280 nm and 400 nm allows the tanning of the human epidermis and that radiation with a wavelength between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, harms the development of natural tanning. Exposure is also likely to induce an alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis which results in the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging of the skin.

[0004] It is also known that UV-A rays with a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm penetrate deeper into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for short periods, under normal conditions can lead to a degradation of collagen and elastin fibers which results in a change in the micro-relief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and irregular pigmentation (brown spots, uneven skin tone).

[0005] Protection against UVA and UVB radiation is therefore necessary. An effective photoprotection product must protect against both UVA and UVB radiation.

[0006] Many photoprotective compositions have been proposed to date to remedy the effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation. They generally contain organic UV filters and / or inorganic UV filters which function according to their own chemical nature and according to their own properties by absorption, reflection, or diffusion of UV radiation. They generally contain mixtures of fat-soluble organic filters and / or water-soluble UV filters associated with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

[0007] Many cosmetic compositions intended to limit the darkening of skin, improving the color and uniformity of the complexion have been proposed to date. It is well known in the field of sunscreens that such compositions can be obtained by using UV filters, and in particular UVB filters. Some compositions may also contain UVA filters. This filtering system must cover UVB protection in order to limit and control the neosynthesis of melanin promoting overall pigmentation, but must also cover UVA protection in order to limit and control the oxidation of existing melanin leading to the darkening of skin color.

[0008] However, it is extremely difficult to find a composition containing a particular combination of UV filters which would be specially adapted to the photoprotection of the skin and particularly to an improvement in the quality of the skin both in terms of color and its mechanical properties of elasticity.

[0009] Advantageously, this improvement is particularly sought after on already pigmented skin in order to not increase either the pigment load in melanin or the structure of the melanin already present within the skin.

[0010] In fact, the majority of organic UV filters consist of aromatic compounds absorbing in the wavelength range between 280 and 370 nm. In addition to their solar radiation filtering power, the desired photoprotection compounds must also have good cosmetic properties, good solubility in common solvents and in particular in fatty substances such as oils, as well as good photostability alone or in combination with other UV filters. They must also be colorless or at least have a color that is cosmetically acceptable to the consumer.

[0011] One of the main drawbacks known to date of these compositions is that these filtering systems have insufficient effectiveness against UV radiation and particularly against long UVA radiation with wavelengths beyond 370 nm in order to control photo-induced pigmentation and its development by a system filtering UV over the entire UV spectrum.

[0012] Among all the compounds that have been recommended for this purpose, an interesting family of UV filters has been proposed which consists of carbonaceous merocyanine derivatives which is described in patent US4195999, application WO2004 / 006878 and document IP COM Journal 4 (4), 16 No. IPCOM000011179D published on 04 / 03 / 2004. These compounds have very good filtration properties in long UVA radiation but have a poorly satisfactory solubility in usual solvents and in particular in fatty substances such as oils, and an unsatisfactory photo-stability for certain merocyanines.

[0013] In order to search for other merocyanines having better solubility in usual solvents and better photo-stability, it was proposed in the application WO2013 / 011094, merocyanines comprising polar groups consisting of hydroxyl and ether functions which show good filtration efficiency of long UVA. However, the solubility in oils of these particular merocyanines is not yet fully satisfactory, and often requires a tedious formulation process. Furthermore, the large quantities of solvent required to solubilize this type of merocyanine can lead to cosmetic problems such as a sticky and greasy effect upon application.

[0014] Furthermore, sunscreens, and in particular those which protect against UVA, are well known to those skilled in the art as leaving yellow marks on clothing, these yellow marks being very difficult to remove when washing.

[0015] The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that when the merocyanines of formula (3) defined below are used as UVA filters, they leave few traces after washing, and that these fade over time. This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

[0016] Furthermore, the use of a film made from a polyionic complex for cosmetic purposes is proposed in, for example, WO 2013 / 153678 and JP-A-2014-227389. The film disclosed in WO 2013 / 153678 and JP-A-2014-227389 may provide certain cosmetic effects.

[0017] However, a dispersion comprising a polyionic complex is not always stable. In particular, a dispersion comprising a polyionic complex tends to be unstable at a high temperature such as 45°C or higher. If the dispersion is unstable, the polyionic complex tends to precipitate and, therefore, the dispersion may cause phase separation.

[0018] In order to improve the stability of a dispersion comprising a polyionic complex, it has been shown that the use of at least one cationic polysaccharide is effective. For example, as the cationic polymer, a cationic polysaccharide may be used. Alternatively, a cationic polysaccharide may be added to a combination of an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer.

[0019] As a result of further research, it has been discovered that a cationic polysaccharide can be used alone with at least one crosslinking agent selected from non-polymeric acids having three or more acid groups and their salts to form a gel which is a dynamically and ionically crosslinked gel, which is abbreviated as DIC gel. The DIC gel which is preferably in particulate form can also form insoluble water-resistant films.

[0020] The Applicant has discovered that a composition comprising merocyanines of formula (3) defined below and a polyionic complex containing at least one cationic polysaccharide and at least one crosslinking agent chosen from non-polymeric acids having at least three pKa values ​​and their salts exhibits good stability, good sunscreen filtration efficiency, good cosmeticity and good film-forming properties.

[0021] Thus, in accordance with one of the objects of the present invention, there is now provided a composition, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one merocyanine of formula (3) which will be defined in detail below, and at least one polyionic complex containing at least one cationic polysaccharide and at least one crosslinking agent chosen from non-polymeric acids having at least three pKa values ​​and their salts.

[0022] This composition makes it possible in particular to obtain a sun product which has good film-forming properties whilst not having the disadvantage of irreversibly staining clothing or other fabrics.

[0023] Furthermore, the composition in accordance with the invention exhibits good cosmeticity of the composition comprising the merocyanines, the latter being in particular non-greasy and non-sticky.

[0024] The present invention also relates to the use of at least one merocyanine of formula (3) which will be defined in detail below to reduce the staining of fabrics, in particular clothing.

[0025] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of said keratin material of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

[0026] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or uniformity of the complexion comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined above.

[0027] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined above.

[0028] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.

[0029] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0030] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin, the scalp, the keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, and the body hairs, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and the mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0031] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0032] Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal”.

[0033] By "prevent" or "prevention", according to the invention, is meant the fact of reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratin material.

[0034] By "organic UVA filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0035] By “organic UVB filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm. MEROCYANINES

[0036] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one merocyanine type UVA filter as defined below.

[0037] According to the present invention, a family of merocyanines corresponding to the following formula (3) will be used as well as their isomeric geometric forms, in particular E / E- or E / Z-:

[0038] [Formula 3] in which: A is -O- or -NH;

[0039] R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkinyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups possibly being interrupted by one or more O.

[0040] The merocyanine compounds of the invention may be in their geometric isomeric forms E / E-, E / Z-: [formulas 3 and 3bis]

[0041] Even more preferred compounds of formula (3) are those where:

[0042] A is -O-; R is C1-C22 alkyl, which may be interrupted by one or more O.

[0043] Among the compounds of formula (3), those chosen from the following group and their isomeric geometric forms, in particular E / E-, E / Z-, will be used more particularly: [Tables 1] 14 ethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 -ylidene} ethanoate 15 (2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylide ne]ethanamide 25 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 -ylidene} ethanoate 27 2-methylpropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 -ylidene} ethanoate 29 2-butoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-in-1 -ylidene} ethanoate 31 3-methoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 -ylidene} ethanoate 37 3-ethoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-1 -ylidene} ethanoate

[0044] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compound will be used 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)-amino]cyclohex-2-en- l-ylidene]ethanoate (25) in its E / E and / or E / Z geometric configuration.

[0045] The E / Z form has the following structure:

[0046] [formula 25]

[0047] The E / E form has the following structure:

[0048] [formula 25bis]

[0049] The filtering merocyanines in accordance with the invention may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and even better from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] The compounds of formula (3) can be prepared according to the protocols described in Pat. Appl. WO 2007 / 071582, in IP.com Journal (2009), 9(5A), 29-30 IPCOM000182396D under the title “Process for producing 3-amino-2-cyclohexan-l-ylidene compounds” and in US-A-4,749,643 on col, 13, line 66 - col. 14, line 57 and the references cited in this regard.

[0051] In particular, compounds of formula (3), such as the compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)-amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene]ethanoate (25) can be synthesized according to the synthesis scheme described in the publication by B. Winkler et al., Tetrahedron Letters, 55 (2014) 1749-1751, which is entitled “A cyclic me-rocyanine UV-A absorber: mechanism of formation and crystal structure”, and represented below, for compounds of formula (3):

[0052] [formula 4]

[0053] And more particularly for compound 25 described in table 1:

[0054] [formula 5] Polyionic complexes

[0055] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one polyionic complex containing at least one cationic polysaccharide and at least one crosslinking agent chosen from non-polymeric acids having at least three pKa values ​​and their salts. Polyionic complexes

[0056] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyionic complex. Two or more different types of polyionic complexes may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of polyionic complex or a combination of different types of polyionic complexes may be used.

[0057] The amount of polyionic complexes in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] The amount of polyionic complexes in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] The amount of polyionic complexes in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] The above would mean that the polyionic complex itself is amphiphilic and insoluble in a fatty material such as an oil or in water. Cationic polysaccharides

[0061] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide. Two or more different types of cationic polysaccharides may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polysaccharide or a combination of different types of cationic polysaccharides may be used.

[0062] The cationic polysaccharide(s) have a positive charge density. The charge density of the cationic polysaccharide(s) may be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0063] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the cationic polysaccharide(s) is 500 or more, preferably 1000 or more, more preferably 2000 or more, and even more preferably 5000 or more.

[0064] Unless otherwise indicated in the description, "molecular weight" means number average molecular weight.

[0065] The cationic polysaccharide(s) may have at least one positively chargeable and / or positively charged group selected from primary, secondary or tertiary amino groups, quaternary ammonium groups, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group and a pyridyl group. The term "amino group" (primary) herein refers to the -NH2 group.

[0066] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide having at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0067] The cationic polysaccharide(s) may be homopolymers or copolymers. By "copolymers" is meant both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three types of monomers.

[0068] The cationic polysaccharide(s) may be chosen from natural and synthetic cationic polysaccharides.

[0069] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one cationic cellulose polymer. Non-limiting examples of polymers Cationic cellulosics are as follows.

[0070] (1) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups described for example in French patent No. 1,492,597, such as the polymers sold under the names “JR” (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Dow Chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0071] (2) Cationic cellulosic polymers such as cellulosic copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with at least one water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described for example in US patent 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with at least one group chosen from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include for example the products sold under the names “Celquat® L 200” and “Celquat® H 100” by the company Akzo Novel.

[0072] (3) Cationic cellulose polymers having at least one qua ammonium group ternary comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms. It may be preferable for the cationic cellulose polymers to be quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals carried by the quaternary ammonium group may preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. More preferably, the cationic cellulose polymer may comprise at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon group.Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (Cl8 alkyl) or Softcat Polymer SL100, Softcat SX-1300X, Softcat SX-1300H, Softcat SL-5, Softcat SL-30, Softcat SL-60, Softcat SK-MH, Softcat SX-400X, Softcat SX-400H, SoftCat SK-L, Softcat SK-M and Softcat SK-H, marketed by Dow Chemical, and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel, QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C12 alkyl) Cl8) marketed by the company Croda.

[0073] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least less one cationic polysaccharide selected from polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67.

[0074] The amount of cationic polysaccharides in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.07% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] The amount of cationic polysaccharides in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] The amount of cationic polysaccharides in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.07% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Crosslinking agents

[0077] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one crosslinking agent selected from non-polymeric acids having three or more acid groups and their salts. Two or more different types of acids having three or more acid groups and / or their salts may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid having three or more acid groups and / or its salts or a combination of different types of acids having three or more acid groups and / or their salts may be used. At least one of the acid groups of each of these acids may be in the form of a salt. All the acid groups of these acids may be in the form of salts.The term "salt" in the present invention means a salt formed by adding one or more suitable bases to the acid having three or more acid groups, which can be obtained from a reaction between the acid having three or more acid groups with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As the salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K, and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

[0078] The crosslinking agent(s) are selected from non-polymeric acids having three or more acid groups, preferably from non-polymeric organic acids having three or more acid groups. The term "non-polymeric" herein means that the crosslinking agent is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Therefore, the non-polymeric acid, in particular the non-polymeric organic acid, does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as polycarboxylic acid. Preferably, the molecular weight of the non-polymeric acid, in particular the non-polymeric organic acid, having three or more acid groups, is 1000 or less, preferably 800 or less, and more preferably 600 or less.

[0079] The non-polymeric acid(s) having three or more acid groups, or a salt thereof, may be hydrophilic or water-soluble.

[0080] The non-polymeric acid(s) having three or more acid groups may have three or more acid groups selected from carboxylic, sulfuric, sulfonic, phosphonic, phosphoric, phenolic hydroxyl groups, and a mixture thereof. The non-polymeric acid(s) having three or more acid groups and their salts may be selected from tricarboxylic acids, tetracarboxylic acids, pentacarboxylic acids, hexacarboxylic acids, their salts and their mixtures.

[0081] The non-polymeric acid(s) having three or more acid groups and their salts may be selected from citric acid, aconitic acid, phytic acid, EDTA, glycyrrhizin, inositol triphosphate, inositol pentakisphosphate, tripoly-phosphate, adenosine triphosphate, and their salts. Preferably, the non-polymeric acid(s) having three or more acid groups and their salts are selected from citric acid, phytic acid, and their salts.

[0082] The amount of non-polymeric acids having three or more acid groups and their salts in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, better still 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] The amount of non-polymeric acids having three or more acid groups and their salts in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The amount of non-polymeric acids having three acid groups and their salts in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. OILY PHASE

[0085] The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one oily phase.

[0086] For the purposes of the invention, the term “oily phase” means a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

[0087] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0088] The oily phase may comprise, in addition to the merocyanine filter(s) and possibly generally the lipophilic complementary filters at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil and / or one volatile and / or non-volatile fluorinated oil.

[0089] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0090] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may in particular contain one or more carboxy, ester, ether or hydroxy functions.

[0091] The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0092] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporate on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0093] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). Hydrocarbon oils

[0094] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of:

[0095] (i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and musk rose; or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;

[0096] (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0097] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as that petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;

[0098] (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is 3 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by the company WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, dii-isopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate,diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear di-alkyl tartrates in C12-C13 such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear di-alkyl tartrates in C14-C15 such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates; ,

[0099] (v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0100] (vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

[0101] (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis;

[0102] and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols in particular octyldodecanol.

[0104] As volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-Ci6 esters, 1e isohexyl neo-pentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and different by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil, and mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (Ci4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0106] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SHELL, may also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures. Silicone oils

[0107] The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates.

[0108] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of £ 8 centistokes (8 106 m2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0109] We can also cite the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of the following general formula:

[0110] [formula 9]

[0111] where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

[0112] Among the oils of general formula (9), we can cite:

[0113] 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,

[0114] 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and

[0115] 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,

[0116] corresponding to the oils of formula (9) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group. Fluorinated oils

[0117] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

[0118] An oily phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or dissolved in the oil, other fatty substances.

[0119] Another fatty substance which may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:

[0120] - a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

[0121] - a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candellila, paraffin waxes, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes;

[0122] - a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol),

[0123] - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives,

[0124] - and mixtures thereof.

[0125] Preferably, the overall oily phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. AQUEOUS PHASE

[0126] The composition in accordance with the invention may additionally comprise at least one aqueous phase.

[0127] The aqueous phase contains water, and optionally other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.

[0128] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy water, or a floral water.

[0129] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] According to a preferred embodiment, it is possible to use more particularly ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, and their mixtures.

[0131] According to a particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIVES Additional UV filters

[0132] The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain one or more complementary UV filters, different from the merocyanine derivatives and the triazine derivatives as described above, chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filters and / or one or more mineral pigments. Preferably, it will consist of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filter.

[0133] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0134] By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in the form colloidal (e.g. in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[0135] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C, is defined as the quantity of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

[0136] The complementary organic UV filters are in particular chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; ; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665;dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.;

[0137] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name.

[0138] Cinnamic compounds:

[0139] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® MCX by the company DSM Nutritional Products;

[0140] Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by the company Symrise,

[0141] Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

[0142] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

[0143] Salicylic compounds:

[0144] Homosalate sold under the name “Parsol® HMS” by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

[0145] Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN® OS” by the company Symrise,

[0146] BB-diphenvlacrvlate compounds:

[0147] Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® N 539 T” by the company BASF,

[0148] Benzophenone compounds:

[0149] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL® M 40” by the company BASF,

[0150] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus” or in a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus B” by the company BASF,

[0151] 1,1 '-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis [1 - [2- [4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl] -metha none (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of aqueous dispersion,

[0152] Benzylidene camphor compounds:

[0153] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX® 6300” by the company MERCK,

[0154] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® SX” by the company NOVEAL,

[0155] Phenyl benzimidazole compounds:

[0156] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX® 232” by the company MERCK,

[0157] Bis-benzoazolyl compounds:

[0158] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN® AP” by the company Symrise,

[0159] Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:

[0160] Drometrizole Trisiloxane manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® XL” by the company NOVEAL,

[0161] Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:

[0162] Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB / 100 ®” by the company FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or

[0163] in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 pm and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n+iO(C6Hi0O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6Hi0O5) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549 in particular sold under the trade name “TINOSORB® M” by the company BASF or

[0164] in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 pm and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C2o)alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392, in particular the product marketed under the name Tinosorb WPGL by the company BASF,

[0165] Triazine compounds:

[0166] - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine,

[0167] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB® S” by BASF, and in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by BASF,

[0168] - Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® T 150" by BASF,

[0169] - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB® HEB » by the company 3V SIGMA,

[0170] - symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004) in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by the company BASF and which is included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of aqueous dispersion,

[0171] Anthranilic compounds:

[0172] Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN® MA” by the company Symrise,

[0173] Benzalmalonate compounds:

[0174] Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX ®” by the company HOFFMANN LA ROCHE,

[0175] Benzoxazole compounds:

[0176] The filter with the INCI name 2,2'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(l,3-benzoxazole) is proposed under the name DBO by the company DSM.

[0177] The preferred organic filters are chosen from:

[0178] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,

[0179] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0180] Homosalate,

[0181] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0182] Octocrylene,

[0183] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0184] Benzophenone-3,

[0185] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,

[0186] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,

[0187] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

[0188] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,

[0189] Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol,

[0190] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0191] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0192] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

[0193] 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine,

[0194] 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine,

[0195] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

[0196] Polysilicone-15,

[0197] Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine,

[0198] et leurs mélanges.

[0199] Les filtres organiques particulièrement préférés sont choisis parmi :

[0200] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0201] Homosalate,

[0202] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0203] Octocrylene,

[0204] Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,

[0205] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

[0206] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0207] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0208] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

[0209] Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine,

[0210] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

[0211] 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine,

[0212] et leurs mélanges.

[0213] The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm. They are notably described in Annex VI updated on 09 / 22 / 2021 of the European Cosmetic Products Regulation number 1223 / 2009, but are not limited to this list.

[0214] They can be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or their mixtures.

[0215] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

[0216] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0217] Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0218] The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:

[0219] - of hydrated silica such as the product “MT-100WP” from the company TAYCA,

[0220] - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company IKEDA,

[0221] - silica and alumina such as the products "MT-500SA®" and "MT-100SA®" from the TAYCA company, "TIOVEIL™ AQ-N" from CRODA company,

[0222] - alumina such as the products "TTO-55 (A)®" from the company ISHIHARA,

[0223] - alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MT-100TV®, MT- 100Z®, MT-01®" from TAYCA, the product "Solaveil™ CT100" from CRODA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from MERCK,

[0224] - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100AQ®" from the TAYCA company,

[0225] - alumina and aluminum laurate,

[0226] - iron oxide and iron stearate,

[0227] - zinc oxide and zinc stearate,

[0228] - of silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MTY- 500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from the company TAYCA,

[0229] - of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone,

[0230] - silica and treated with a silicone,

[0231] - alumina and treated with a silicone such as the "TTO-55(S)®" products from the ISHIHARA company,

[0232] - triethanolamine,

[0233] - stearic acid such as the product "TTO-55 (C)®" from the company ISHIHARA,

[0234] - sodium hexametaphosphate,

[0235] - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane,

[0236] - TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane,

[0237] - anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylhydrogensiloxane,

[0238] - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-200” from CRODA,

[0239] - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the name commercial name “Solaveil™ CT-12W” from CRODA,

[0240] - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine,

[0241] - TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

[0242] Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRLPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters.More particularly, mention may be made of the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE with the INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE or the product sold under the trade name. “OPTISOL™ OTP-1” by CRODA company.

[0243] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MT-500B" or "MT-600B®", by the company Evonik under the name "DEGUSSA P 25".

[0244] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0245] - those marketed under the name "Z-COTE®" by the company BASF;

[0246] - those marketed under the name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide" by the company Nanophase Technologies.

[0247] Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:

[0248] - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane;

[0249] - CRODA's “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in Cl2-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);

[0250] - those marketed under the name and "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®" by Daito Kasei Company (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent);

[0251] - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

[0252] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.

[0253] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin.

[0254] According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

[0255] The complementary UV filters according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, and in particular from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other additives

[0256] The composition in accordance with the present invention may further comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, in particular chosen from organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, anti-foaming agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active ingredients, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.

[0257] Among the organic solvents, mention may be made of alcohols other than C1-C4 monoalkanols as defined above and in particular short-chain C2-C8 polyols, such as glycerin, diols such as caprylyl glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, pro-panediol, butanediol, glycols and glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

[0258] As thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulen such as Pemulen TRI® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides such as, for example, crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / Ci3-i4 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the trade name “Hostacerin AMPS®” (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800® marketed by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate);copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by the company SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as xanthan gum; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones and their mixtures.

[0259] Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

[0260] Among the alkalizing agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides.

[0261] Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more alkalizing agents chosen from alkanolamines, in particular triethanolamine, and sodium hydroxide.

[0262] In the case of a direct emulsion, the pH of the composition in accordance with the invention is generally between approximately 3 and 12, preferably between approximately 5 and 11, and even more particularly from 5.5 to 8.

[0263] Among the active agents for the care of keratin materials such as the skin, lips, scalp, hair, eyelashes or nails, mention may be made, for example, of vitamins and their derivatives or precursors, alone or in mixtures; antioxidant agents; anti-radical agents; anti-polluting agents; self-tanning agents; anti-glycation agents; soothing agents; deodorant agents; essential oils; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts; agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants; refreshing agents; tightening agents; matting agents; depigmenting agents; pro-pigmenting agents; keratolytic agents; desquamating agents; moisturizing agents; anti-inflammatory agents;antimicrobial agents; slimming agents; agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells; insect repellents; substance P or CRGP antagonists; anti-hair loss agents; anti-wrinkle agents; anti-aging agents.

[0264] A person skilled in the art will choose the said active ingredient(s) according to the desired effect on the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails.

[0265] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional compound(s) mentioned above and / or their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. DOSAGE FORMS

[0266] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can be presented in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W) such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel.

[0267] They may also be in anhydrous form, such as for example in the form of an oil. The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 1% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and in particular free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

[0268] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also be in aqueous form, with an amount of oily phase preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and in particular free of oily phase.

[0269] They may optionally be packaged in aerosol form and come in the form of foam or spray.

[0270] In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-water emulsions oil, the emulsification processes that can be used are blade or propeller, rotor-stator and HHP.

[0271] To obtain stable emulsions with a low polymer content (oil / polymer ratio >25), it is possible to make the dispersion in concentrated phase then dilute the dispersion with the rest of the aqueous phase.

[0272] It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800 bars), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes that can go down to 100 nm.

[0273] The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

[0274] As examples of W / O emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning; Cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09® by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which, advantageously, may be chosen from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

[0275] Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.

[0276] As alkylated polyol esters, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.

[0277] As glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

[0278] For O / W emulsions, examples of non-ionic emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned are polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular poly- oxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) possibly in association with a fatty acid and glycerol ester such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearylglucoside possibly in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside,for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside marketed under the name Montanov 202® by the company Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO-A-92 / 06778.

[0279] When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a non-ionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins. J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

[0280] The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and / or care of the skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for making up the skin and / or lips.

[0281] Another object of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, in particular care products, sun protection products and makeup products.

[0282] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, for example, be used as a makeup product.

[0283] Another subject of the present invention consists of a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up a keratin material consisting of applying to the surface of said keratin material at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

[0284] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can, for example, be used as a care and / or sun protection product for the face and / or body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, creams of varying thickness. creamy, gel-creams, pastes. They can possibly be packaged in aerosol and come in the form of foam or spray.

[0285] The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurization devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant as well as aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. The latter are described in US patents 4,077,441 and US 4,850,517.

[0286] The compositions packaged in aerosol form in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane, trichlorofluoromethane. They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. TOGETHER

[0287] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly including:

[0288] i) a container delimiting one or more compartments (d), said container being closed by a closing element and possibly being non-watertight; and

[0289] ii) a makeup and / or care composition in accordance with the invention placed inside said compartment(s).

[0290] The container may for example be in the form of a pot or a box.

[0291] The closure element may be in the form of a cover comprising a hood mounted movable by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing said makeup and / or care composition(s). EXAMPLES

[0292] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, presenting a limiting nature. In these examples, the quantities of the composition ingredients are

[0293]

[0294] data in % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Example Al: Preparation of compound (14) [formula 14]

[0295] 122.23 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 75.45 grams of ethyl cyanoacetate in approximately equi- molar in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.

[0296] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the following table are used. [Tables 3] Example Base Solvent Example ALI DBU (l,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene) dimethylacetamide Example A 1.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A 1.3 3-Methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A 1.4 3-Methoxypropylamine tert-amylalcohol Example A 1.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A 1.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A 1.7 3-Methoxypropylamine solvent-free Example A 1.8 N-Morpholine isopropanol

[0297] The completion of the alkylation reaction can be monitored for example by methods such as TLC, GC or HPLC.

[0298] 162.30 grams of compound (14) are obtained in the form of a brown oil.

[0299] After crystallization, the product is obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.

[0300] Melting point: 92.7°C.

[0301] Example A2: Preparation of compound (15)

[0302] [formula 15]

[0303] 101.00 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 86.00 grams of 2-cyano-N-(3-methoxy-propyl)-acetamide in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.

[0304] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the following table are used. [Tables 4] Example Base Solvent Example A2.1 DBU (l,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene) dimethylacetamide Example A2.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A2.3 3-methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A2.4 3-methoxypropylamine tert-amylalcohol Example A2.5 3-methoxypropylamine toluene Example A2.6 3-methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A2.7 3-methoxypropylamine solvent-free

[0305]

[0306]

[0307]

[0308]

[0309] The crude product (15) is obtained in the form of a dark brown oil. After chromatography on a silica gel column (eluent: toluene / methanol 99 / 1), 81.8 grams of product are obtained in the form of yellowish crystals. Melting point: 84.7-85.3°C. Example A3: Preparation of compound (27) [formula 27]

[0310]

[0311] 13.09 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 10.12 grams of isobutyl cyanoacetate in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent. The base / solvent combinations shown in the following table are used. [Tables 5] Example Base Solvent Example A3.1 DBU (l,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene) dimethylacetamide Example A3.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A3.3 3-Methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A3.4 N-Methylmorpholine tert-amylalcohol Example A3.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A3.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A3.7 3-Methoxypropylamine solvent-free

[0312] 15.97 grams of crude product (27) are obtained in the form of a dark brown oil.

[0313] After chromatography on a silica gel column (eluent: toluene / acetone), 13.46 grams of product are obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.

[0314] Melting point: 96.3°C.

[0315] Example A4: Preparation of compound (25)

[0316] [formula 25]

[0317] 148.4 grams of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one are alkylated with dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 130.00 grams of 2-ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate in the presence of an organic base and a solvent.

[0318] The base / solvent combinations indicated in the table below are used. [Tableauxô] Example Base Solvent Example A4.1 DBU (l,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene) dimethylacetamide Example A4.2 Triethylamine isopropanol Example A4.3 3-Methoxypropylamine isopropanol Example A4.4 N-methylmorpholine tert-amylalcohol Example A4.5 3-Methoxypropylamine toluene Example A4.6 3-Methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide Example A4.7 3-Methoxypropylamine solvent-free

[0319] Examples of formulations

[0320] Method of preparing the compositions

[0321] The aqueous phase Al is prepared by mixing all the raw materials while heating to 80°C until a homogeneous phase is obtained. Phase A2 is added to phase Al when the temperature has returned to 25°C. Phase B2 is introduced with stirring into phase Bl, previously heated to 50°C, until a homogeneous phase is obtained. Phase B is prepared by mixing all the ingredients while heating to 50°C, until a homogeneous phase is obtained. The emulsion is prepared by introducing phase B into phase A with vigorous stirring for 10 minutes at 25°C. Phase C is then introduced, then phase D, and finally phase E with stirring until a smooth formula is obtained.

[0322] Protocol for evaluating the staining power of UVA filters

[0323] The product is transferred onto a white cotton fabric using a 25 cm2 PMMA plate. The amount deposited is equivalent to 2 mg / cm2. The fabric is then left to air dry for 24 hours, then machine washed (Color program 40 °C - duration 1h30) with a liquid detergent. The staining power is evaluated 24 hours and 3 weeks after washing by measuring the AE obtained using a chromameter (KONICA MINOLTA SENSING EUROPE BV).

[0324] The results are expressed in the system (L, a, b) in which L represents the luminance, a represents the red-green axis (-a = green, +a = red) and b represents the yellow-blue axis (-b = blue, +b = yellow).

[0325] For the evaluation of stain reduction, we are interested in the AE, which measures the total color variation between an area stained by the formula and an unstained area of ​​the fabric washed, then dried, and after waiting a time t after machine washing. The lower the AE, the less staining of fabrics by the product.

[0326] AE is calculated from the variations AL, Aa and Ab according to the following formula:

[0327] [Math.l] lISIlIBBiiliHBH

[0328] In this formula, AL represents the difference between the value of L of the unstained area and the value of L of the stained area after a time t after washing the fabric, Aa represents the difference between the value of a of the unstained area and the value of a of the stained area after a time t after washing the fabric and Ab represents the difference between the value of b of the unstained area and the value of b of the stained area after a time t after washing the fabric.

[0329] 3 measurements are taken on each piece of fabric. The operation is repeated on 3 pieces of fabric. The AE values ​​given below correspond to the average of the results obtained on the 3 pieces of fabric.

[0330] Comparative example - Compositions 1 to 4

[0331] The following compositions 1 to 4 were prepared according to the protocol detailed above. [Paintings?] Phase Ingrédients 1 (référence) 2 (invention) Al BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE 0 0 Al DIETHYLAMINO HY- DROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE 0 0 Al METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CY- CLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACETA TE 0 3 Al DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 5 5 Al DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 5 5 Al TRIETHYL CITRATE 8 8 Al C15-19 ALKANE QSP 100 QSP 100 Al POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE 0,2 0,2 Al ISOSTEARIC ACID 1 1 Al CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DI- METHICONE 1 1 Al POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRI-CINOLEATE 1 1 Al DIMETHICONE 9 9 Al Conservateurs QS QS A2 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE 2 2 B EAU 20 20 B POLYQUATERNIUM-67 0,17 0,17 B PHYTIC ACID 0,07 0,07 C DIMETHICONE (and) DI-METHICONE / VINYL DI-METHICONE CROSSPOLYMER 2 2 D Charge(s) 9,5 9,5 E ALCOHOL DENAT. 8 8 [Tableaux8] Phase Ingredients 3 (comparative) 4 (comparative) Al BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE 3 0 Al DIETHYLAMINO HY- DROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE 0 3 Al METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CY- CLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACETA TE 0 0 Al DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 5 5 Al DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 5 5 Al TRIETHYL CITRATE 8 8 Al C15-19 ALKANE QSP 100 QSP 100 Al POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE 0.2 0.2 Al ISOSTEARIC ACID 1 1 Al CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DI- METHICONE 1 1 Al POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRI-CINOLEATE 1 1 Al DIMETHICONE 9 9 Al Preservatives QS QS A2 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) PROPYLENE CARBONATE 2 2 B WATER 20 20 B POLYQUATERNIUM-67 0.17 0.17 B PHYTIC ACID 0.07 0.07 C DIMETHICONE (and) DI-METHICONE / VINYL DI-METHICONE CROSSPOLYMER 2 2 D Charge(s) 9.5 9.5 E ALCOHOL DENAT. 8 8

[0332] The results obtained with compositions 1 to 4 are described in the table below. [Tables 9] Composition 1 (reference) 2 (invention) 3 (comparative) 4 (comparative) AE 24h after washing 1.25 + 0.38 1.17 + 0.27 2.34 + 0.40 1.49 + 0.24 AE 3 weeks after washing 0.43 + 0.14 0.53 + 0.11 1.98 + 0.29 1.18 + 0.26

[0333] These results show that composition 2 according to the invention in which ME-THOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYA-NOACETATE (compound 25) is used as a UVA filter leaves traces after washing (after 24 hours and after 3 weeks) equivalent to those left by reference composition 1 which does not contain UVA filters. Composition 2 leaves fewer traces after washing than comparative compositions 3 and 4 in which BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE (for example Parsol 1789 from DSM) or DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE (for example Uvinul A+ from BASF) is used as a UVA filter.

Claims

1. Claims Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising: (a) at least one merocyanine corresponding to the following formula (3), as well as their isomeric geometric forms, in particular E / E or E / Z: [Formula 3]

2. in which: A is -O- or -NH; R is a CrC22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkinyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups possibly being interrupted by one or more O; and b) at least one polyionic complex containing at least one cationic polysaccharide and at least one crosslinking agent chosen from non-polymeric acids having at least three pKa values and their salts. Composition according to claim 1 in which the merocyanines of formula (3) are chosen from the following compounds, as well as their E / E or E / Z isomeric geometric forms: [Tables 2] ethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoate (2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylide ne}ethanamide 25 SSSSSSSSSSSï^SÏSS^ 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en- l-ylidene}ethanoate 27 lllilsllllllllilllls 2-methylpropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en- l-ylidene}ethanoate 29 2-butoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en- l-ylidene}ethanoate 31 3-methoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en- l-ylidene}ethanoate 37 ^silllllllll 3-ethoxypropyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cycl ohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoate

3. Composition according to claim 2 in which the merocyanine of formula (3) is 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethan oate (25) in its E / Z geometric configuration with the following structure: [formula 6] and / or in its geometric configuration E / E of the following structure: [formula 7]

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 comprising at least one cationic cellulose polymer. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 comprising at least one cationic polysaccharide containing at least one quaternary ammonium group. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 comprising at least one cationic polysaccharide chosen from polyquaternium-4; polyquaternium-10; polyquaternium-24; and polyquaternium-67, preferably polyquaternium-67. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 comprising at least one crosslinking agent chosen from non-polymeric acids having three or more acid groups and their salts. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7 in which the non-polymeric acid(s) having three acid groups are chosen from tricarboxylic acids, tetracarboxylic acids, pentacarboxylic acids, hexacarboxylic acids. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 wherein the non-polymeric acid(s) having three or more acid groups are selected from citric acid, aconitic acid, phytic acid, EDTA, glycyrrhizin, inositol triphosphate, inositol pentakisphosphate, adenosine triphosphate, preferably citric acid.

10. citric acid, phytic acid, and even more preferably phytic acid. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9

11. comprising at least one additional UV filter. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of said keratin material of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.