Solid skincare and / or makeup composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: Zinc oxide particles, Boron nitride particles, and One or more waxes.

Description

Title of the invention: Solid skincare and / or makeup composition FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to solid cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, especially those of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips. PRIOR TECHNOLOGY

[0002] Solid anhydrous skin or lip care and / or makeup products are sought after by consumers for their coverage and hold properties.

[0003] Coverage is generally provided by white pigments and / or fillers, and titanium dioxide, which has strong opacifying and covering power, is commonly used. However, there is a growing demand for alternatives to titanium dioxide, and the Applicant has observed that zinc oxide particles, used as a replacement for titanium dioxide in solid anhydrous compositions, tend to disrupt the solid composition and impact manufacturing feasibility as well as application and sensory properties. This problem therefore necessitates the search for formulation solutions to maintain the stick's structural properties and its application and sensory properties, without impacting the coverage provided by the zinc oxide particles.We are seeking in particular to satisfy requirements of a mechanical nature in order to ensure the feasibility of manufacture, the stability of the stick during application and to prevent it from breaking and, on the other hand, transfer qualities to guarantee a comfortable application as well as sufficient and good quality deposit on the lips (homogeneity of the deposit and the shade for example).

[0004] Unexpectedly, the Applicant observed that the use of boron nitride particles made it possible to solve this problem and to obtain an anhydrous solid composition exhibiting good coverage properties, good mechanical properties of the stick and good application and sensory properties. Description of the invention

[0005] A first aspect of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. Zinc oxide particles, ii. Boron nitride particles, and iii. One or more waxes.

[0006] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0007] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0008] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0009] (i) Zinc oxide particles,

[0010] (ii) Boron nitride particles, and

[0011] (iii) One or more waxes.

[0012] By "anhydrous composition," it is understood, in particular, that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition of the invention but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is even completely free of water. According to a particular embodiment, the composition is free of water.

[0013] By "solid composition", according to the invention, a composition having, at a temperature of 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), a hardness greater than 30 Nm', preferably greater than 40 Nm1. Hardness can be measured at 20°C using the "butter wire" method, which involves cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical, transversely with a rigid metal wire 250 µm in diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram-force (Gf) and can be measured using a texture analyzer such as the TAXT Plus Texture Analyzer.

[0014] For each type of product, a reference (target) range is established to guarantee the mechanical properties of the stick.

[0015] The solid composition according to the invention will generally have a hardness greater than or equal to 70g, in particular greater than or equal to 90g, for example ranging from 100g to 300g, and preferably ranging from 140g to 210g. Such compositions (corresponding in particular to cast sticks in a standard format of approximately 12.7mm) exhibit a stability and adequate hardness: the stick is sufficiently rigid and solid, does not break during application and is therefore compatible with stick packaging or in another solid form and with application by friction on the surface to be treated and / or made up; they are also characterized by ease of application such as good glide, good disintegration during application and a comfortable texture.

[0016] The composition may in particular be in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a cup.

[0017] The composition of the invention comprises particles of zinc oxide particles. Zinc oxide particles

[0018] Zinc oxide particles are in the form of a white powder and are insoluble in water.

[0019] Zinc oxide particles can be in a heterogeneous form, generally hexagonal and cubic in shape.

[0020] The zinc oxide particles used according to the invention are pigmentary zinc oxide particles, as opposed to zinc oxide nanoparticles used as a mineral sunscreen.

[0021] The average size of the zinc oxide particles used according to the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 50 pm (micrometers), in particular from 0.1 to 1 pm, or even from 0.1 to 1 pm.

[0022] The particle size can be measured according to a laser diffraction distribution method with a Malvern Mastersizer type device, in particular by measuring the value D

[50] , which represents the maximum size that 50% of the volume of the particles represents.

[0023] We can cite in particular the commercial references RONACARE ZINC OXIDE of the company Merck, or the reference A120-ZnO-l 1S3 of the company Kobo, or the reference ZINC OXIDE COSMETICS of the company Keyser&Mackay / Grillo.

[0024] According to a particular and preferred mode, the zinc oxide particles contain more than 80% by weight of zinc oxide (ZnO), in particular more than 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, or 99% by weight of ZnO, or even 100% of ZnO.

[0025] The zinc oxide particles used according to the invention may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the oil phase.

[0026] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the zinc oxide particles are not treated and they have the INCI name: Zinc oxide.

[0027] According to another particular mode, the zinc oxide particles are treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.

[0028] Zinc oxide particles can also be mixed with a wetting agent to facilitate their dispersion in the composition and thus improve the homogeneity of the composition.

[0029] According to a particular mode, the content of zinc oxide particles in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1% to 50% by weight of zinc oxide, in particular from 0.5% to 40% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight of zinc oxide, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight of zinc oxide relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] For an anhydrous solid composition for the skin and distinct from a powder (e.g., complexion corrector), the total content of zinc oxide particles will generally range from 0.5% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight (of zinc oxide) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] For an anhydrous solid lip composition (e.g., lip balm), the total zinc oxide particle content will generally range from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 20% (zinc oxide) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 3% titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1%, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

[0033] According to an even more preferred mode, the composition of the invention is free of titanium dioxide.

[0034] The composition of the invention also comprises boron nitride particles. Boron nitride particles

[0035] The boron nitride particles usable according to the invention are generally of lamellar or platelet shape. By 'lamellar particle' or 'platelet particle', it is understood that the thickness of the particle is less than the width of the particle, in particular the ratio between the width and the thickness of the particle goes from 2 to 100.

[0036] Boron nitride particles are generally known by the INCI name: Boron nitride.

[0037] The boron nitride particles usable according to the invention generally have a average size ranging from 0.5 to 20pm, in particular from 1 to 1 Opm, measured according to a laser diffraction distribution method described previously.

[0038] The following commercial references can be cited in particular: BORON NITRIDE CC and SOFTOUCH CC from SAFIC ALCAN / Momentive, BORON NITRIDE SHP from IWASE / Mizushima, RONAFLAIR from Merck, CARESS BN from Kobo.

[0039] The boron nitride particles may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.

[0040] According to a particular mode, the boron nitride particles are not treated.

[0041] According to a particular mode, the boron nitride particles are not in the form of composite particles.

[0042] According to a particular mode, the content of boron nitride particles in the composition of the invention shall range in particular from 0.1% to 50%, in particular from 0.2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and better from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the zinc oxide particles and the boron nitride particles will go from 99:1 to 50:50, preferably from 99:1 to 80:20, preferably from 99:1 to 90:10.

[0044] The oily phase of the composition further comprises one or more waxes. Waxes

[0045] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 30°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0046] Examples include microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols having 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] According to a particular and preferred mode, the total wax content in the composition of the invention ranges from 3% to 25%, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] The oily phase will generally also include one or more oils.

[0049] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0050] Oils that can be used in the invention include, in particular, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils.

[0051] Examples of hydrocarbon oils include hydrocarbon oils of vegetable or mineral origin, linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, synthetic C10-C40 esters, fatty alcohols in C12-C26 possibly branched and / or unsaturated, higher fatty acids in C12-C22 possibly branched and / or unsaturated, mono- and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols and their mixtures.

[0052] Examples of oils of vegetable origin include soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor seed oil, jojoba seed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, pumpkin seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, sesame oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil; Candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0053] As an example of a C10-C26 aliphatic fatty alcohol, linear or branched, saturated C10-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols are cited, preferably also C16-C20 such as 2-octyldodecanol.

[0054] Examples of linear or branched hydrocarbons include paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, mineral oils (mixtures of hydrocarbon oils derived from petroleum), polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene, or linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes.

[0055] Examples of fatty acids that may be branched and / or unsaturated include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0056] By way of example of esters, monoesters or polyesters of fatty acids having a linear or branched fatty chain containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as those mentioned above, or mixtures thereof, and of fatty alcohols having a fatty chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular mono- and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, C5-C9 esters of dipentaerythrityl, or polyesters of polyglycerol, polyesters of trimethylolpropane, polyesters of propylene glycol, polyesters of hydrogenated castor oil, and more particularly isononyl isononanoate, stearyl octanoate, isopropyl palmitate, myristate isopropyl, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate,diisostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerin triisostearate; diisostearyl malate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, cetearyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, glycerol tricaprocaprylate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, alkyl benzoate, (di)pentaerythrityl, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, triisostearate trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dioctanoate, propylene glycol, triglyceride mixtures obtained by esterification of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid, non-oxyalkylated polyglycerol esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; jojoba esters, polyglyceryl polyricinoleates such as polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleates, and polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates (in their INCI names), and mixtures thereof.

[0057] The oil content can range from 10 to 90%, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more pasty fats.

[0059] By "pasty fat body" is meant a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0060] According to the invention, the pasty fat can be selected from the group consisting of lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric silicone compounds, alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C50 diols, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, diglycerol esters, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a diacid or linear or branched C4-C50 carboxylic polyacid and a diol or polyol,the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid such as monodi- or triisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, a mixture of soy sterols and oxyethylenated (5 O E) oxypropylenated (5 OP) pentaerythritol, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters of fatty acids, or of one of its esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, vegetable butters and mixtures thereof.

[0062] The content of pasty fats in the composition of the invention can range from 0 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Additional ingredients

[0064] The composition of the invention may further include an ingredient selected from lipophilic gelling agents, additional fillers, additional coloring materials and mixtures thereof.

[0065] According to a particular mode, the composition further comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent. Lipophilic gelling agents

[0066] By "lipophilic gelling agent" according to the invention, we mean a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of a composition.

[0067] The lipophilic gelling agent can advantageously be chosen from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; esters of dextrin and fatty acids such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; tri-esters of C8 C30 fatty acids and mono- or poly-glyceryl such as glyceryl tri(hydroxystearate) (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin).

[0068] The lipophilic gelling agent is preferably a natural or synthetic clay selected from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites, and zeolites. Preferably, it can be selected from hectorites. Even more preferably, a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride is used, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two Cl4-C2O alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.

[0069] As a preferred liposoluble gelling agent, one may mention in particular a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example the reference BENTONE GEL of Elementis with INCI name Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate.

[0070] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises a lipophilic gelling agent, in particular a mineral gelling agent such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite.

[0071] When the composition includes one or more gelling agent(s), the total content of lipophilic gelling agent(s) may range from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] According to a particular mode, the composition further comprises at least one additional charge, distinct from the zinc oxide particles and the boron nitride particles.

[0073] Additional charges

[0074] The additional fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to give a mattifying and / or blurring effect.

[0075] For the purposes of the invention, "charges" means particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.The fillers are chosen in particular from micas, of natural or synthetic origin; talc; bismuth oxychloride; silica; kaolin; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone powders; cellulose powders; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as crosslinked or uncrosslinked corn, wheat, rice, cotton starches; hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof.

[0076] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention does not include talc.

[0077] The fillers may or may not be surface treated, in particular by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent; such as those described previously for zinc oxide particles.

[0078] According to a particular mode, the charge is untreated on the surface.

[0079] According to another particular mode, the charge is treated on the surface by a lipophilic agent such as those described above.

[0080] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more additional coloring agents (distinct from the zinc oxide particles). Additional coloring agents

[0081] For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. Coloring materials are conventionally chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils and in the aqueous phase) and dyes (soluble in oils or in the aqueous phase).

[0082] Colouring materials may be of mineral, synthetic or natural origin.

[0083] According to a particular method, the coloring materials are of mineral or synthetic origin.

[0084] Said colouring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.

[0085] A colouring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic colouring materials, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof, soluble or insoluble in the fatty or oily phase of the invention.

[0086] According to a particular method, the colouring material(s) are in particular chosen from mineral pigments distinct from zinc oxides, organic dyes and pigments, composite pigments, mother-of-pearl, dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] The term "pigments" refers to white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0088] Among the "mineral pigments" distinct from zinc oxides, one may mention iron oxides, in particular black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue. As previously stated, in a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises less than 3% titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1%, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

[0089] Preferably, the composition will comprise one or more iron oxides.

[0090] Among the "organic dyes and pigments (e.g., lakes)", one can cite, for example, Blue 1, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Yellow 10, Yellow 11, Red 4, Red 6, Red 7, Red 9, Red 19, Red 13, Red 17, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 30 and Red 33, Red 34, Red 36, Red 40, Green 3, Orange 4, Violet 2, carmine, Green 5, Orange 5, Orange 10, Green 6, Sudan red, Sudan brown, Orange 5, and quinoline yellow, their salts, such as a salt of Sodium or Barium, or lakes comprising at least one of the said organic dyes or pigments, for example those bearing the name Blue 1 lake (CI 42090); Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140); Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11 Lake, Red 6 lake (15850); Red 7 lake (CI 15850); Red 21 lake (CI 45380);Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28 lake (CI 45410), Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33 lake (CI 15880), Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), and / or their sodium or barium salts, including Red 6 Na Sait Lake, Red 6 Ba Sait Lake, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] "Lakes" are organic pigments comprising at least one organic dye precipitated on an inert support (also called a "base"). In particular, lakes comprising a base selected from alumina (Al), barium sulfate (Ba), or calcium rosinate (Ca) bases will be used. For example, Red 28 Al lake is a lake comprising an alumina base on which the dye Red 28 is precipitated.

[0092] According to a more particular mode, the composition comprises at least one organic colorant or pigment (e.g., lake) selected from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably again Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] The term "pearls" may include, in particular, colored pearlescent pigments, such as mica with iron oxides and with or without TiO2, mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples include the commercially available Reflecks®, Ronastar®, Timiron®, and Syncristal® ranges of pearlescent pigments. Pearlescent pigments may also have a base of silica, alumina, alumina hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicate (e.g., calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate), or cellulose or cellulose derivatives.

[0094] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more additional coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes or pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] According to a particular method, the composition comprises an additional coloring agent selected from the group consisting of: i. The organic dyes and pigments chosen from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 lake, Red 4, Red 4 lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), Red 30, Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 lake (CI 15880), Red 34, Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, carmine, and / or their salts, in particular of Sodium or Barium, such as Red 6 Na Sait Lake, Red 6 Ba Sait Lake, and mixtures thereof; in particular Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof;preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; ii. Composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic substrate, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which are embedded or encapsulated with at least one of the aforementioned organic colorants or pigments, and their mixtures; iii. Pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, covered with at least one of the aforementioned colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with an organic colorant or pigment selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (CI 45410), carmine, and mixtures thereof; iv. and their mixtures;

[0096] preferably also the organic colorants or pigments selected from Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 lake (CI 45410), or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (CI 45410), or a mother-of-pearl comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (CI 45410), and mixtures thereof.

[0097] In particular, the colouring material(s) are present in the composition in a total content (including the content of zinc oxide particles) ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] For a care composition, the total content of colouring materials (including the content of zinc oxide particles) will generally range from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] For a makeup composition, the total content of colouring materials (including the content of zinc oxide particles) will generally range from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - Zinc oxide particles, - Boron nitride particles, - One or more waxes in a total content ranging from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Hydrocarbon oils, - Possibly a lipophilic gelling agent, - Possibly one or more coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,

[0101] and characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

[0102] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises: - Zinc oxide particles, particularly in a content of 0.5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Boron nitride particles, in particular at a content of 0.2 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - One or more waxes in a total content ranging from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Hydrocarbon oils, - One or more lipophilic gelling agents, - One or more coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,

[0103] and characterized in that it is free of titanium dioxide.

[0104] According to a preferred mode, the weight ratio between zinc oxide particles and boron nitride particles in these preferred modes of compositions of the invention ranges from 99:1 to 50:50, in particular from 99:1 to 80:20, preferably 99:1 to 90:10. GALENIQUE

[0105] The composition of the invention is a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the eyelids, eyebrows and lips.

[0106] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention is in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup.

[0107] According to a particular and preferred method, it will be a lip stick or a composition in a pot or cup for the lips.

[0108] According to another particular mode, it will be a liner pencil.

[0109] According to another particular mode, it will be a stick or a pencil or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable with a finger or brush, for eyebrows (ex: eyebrow pencil).

[0110] In another method, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable by finger, sponge or brush, for the eyelids (ex: eyeshadow).

[0111] According to another method, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable by finger, sponge or brush, for the skin of the face, in particular certain areas (ex: complexion corrector or concealer).

[0112] Thus, the composition of the invention is in particular in the form of a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow or eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip stick. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0113] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to the invention.

[0114] The compositions of the invention are as defined above.

[0115] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention applied to keratinous materials comprises: - Zinc oxide particles, - Boron nitride particles, - One or more waxes in a total content ranging from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Hydrocarbon oils, - Possibly a lipophilic gelling agent, - Possibly one or more coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,

[0116] and characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

[0117] According to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention applied to keratinous materials comprises: - Zinc oxide particles, particularly in a content of 0.5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Boron nitride particles, in particular at a content of 0.2 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - One or more waxes in a total content ranging from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - Hydrocarbon oils, - One or more lipophilic gelling agents, - One or more coloring materials chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof,

[0118] and characterized in that it is free of titanium dioxide.

[0119] Preferably, the composition applied to the skin or lips is in the form a stick-shaped lip product, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip stick.

[0120] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0121] Example 1: Effect of boron nitride particles on the structure and application and sensory properties of the composition

[0122] Several preliminary tests were conducted to determine the coverage of zinc oxide particles compared to titanium dioxide, in order to replace titanium dioxide in formulations without affecting the desired coverage. These results showed that, for equivalent coverage in an anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, a quantity of zinc oxide particles 3 to 4 times greater than the quantity of titanium dioxide was required for equivalent coverage.

[0123] In the following examples, a formula with 1.4% by weight of titanium dioxide ('TiO2') relative to the total weight of the composition was therefore used as a reference formula.

[0124] The formula with zinc oxide particles alone ('ZnO') as a replacement for TiO2 comprises a content of 4.4% by weight of ZnO. However, the addition of this quantity of ZnO tends to destructure the stick, making it more difficult to apply, more brittle, and resulting in a less homogeneous deposit on the lips.

[0125] The Applicant therefore sought solutions to compensate for these deleterious effects on the structure of the stick and the application and sensory properties of the stick, and used boron nitride particles ('BN').

[0126] Examples of the control formula (TiO2), comparative formula (ZnO alone) and formula according to the invention (ZnO + BN) are described in the following table.

[0127] INGREDIENTS Control (TiO2) % by weight Comparative (ZnO alone) % by weight Invention (ZnO + BN) % by weight WAXES (synthetic wax, microcrystalline wax) 15 15 15 FILLERS (other than boron nitride particles) 2 2 2 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 1 1 1 PASTY FATS (cholesterol esters and vegetable butter) 6.5 6.5 6.5 CALCIUM CARBONATE 2 2 2 YELLOW and BLUE LAKES and DC RED 6 and RED 28 Lake 5.9 5.9 5.9 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1.4 - - ZI OXIDE PARTICLES NC - 4.4* 4.2 BORON NITRIDE PARTICLES - - 0.2 PRESERVATIVES Qs Qs Qs OILS (esters and octyldodecanol) Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 *The amount of ZnO is approximately 3 times greater than the amount of TiO2 to obtain the same covering power and to be 'iso-tinted' in the examples. Protocol for preparing compositions:

[0128]

[0129]

[0130]

[0131] The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure: All coloring particles (ZnO, TiO2, and organic lacquer pigments) are prepared beforehand as a pigment paste: each pigment or lake is dispersed in an oily medium. A large portion of the oils, fats, modified hectorite, preservatives, and waxes are weighed and heated to 95°C. Stirring immediately after heating ensures homogenization. Then the pigment pastes are added. The mixture is passed through a rotor-stator for good homogenization in the medium.

[0132] The fillers are then added, and the mixture is homogenized before pouring at a temperature between 85 and 90°C. The mold is left to rest at room temperature for 10 minutes before being placed in the freezer for 5 minutes.

[0133] The sticks are unmolded and left to rest at room temperature in their packaging (stick). Evaluation of the properties of the sticks obtained:

[0134] The structural properties of the stick (in particular its hardness), and the application and sensory properties (in particular the homogeneity of the deposit and the glide during application) are evaluated.

[0135] The hardness properties of the various sticks are evaluated at 20°C using the so-called "butter wire" method, which consists of cutting a stick of product (cylindrical in revolution) transversely with a rigid metal wire of 250 µm diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples was evaluated using a TAXT-type texture analyzer and is expressed in Gram-force (Gf). The value obtained for a lipstick stick is generally between 70 and 300 g, bearing in mind that, for the composition of the invention, the aim is to achieve a hardness as close as possible to that of the control example comprising the same composition but with TiO2 instead of ZnO (the hardness range here being between 140 and 190 g).

[0136] The results of the evaluations are illustrated in the following table: Control (TiO2) Comparison (ZnO alone) Invention (ZnO + BN) The stick offers good glide during application, a homogeneous deposit, and a rigid structure. The stick is more difficult to apply and is more crumbly. The deposit on the lips is less homogeneous. The stick offers good glide during application, a homogeneous deposit, and a rigid structure, comparable to the control with TiO2.

[0138] These results show that the use of boron nitride particles in a composition comprising zinc oxide particles as a replacement for titanium dioxide and in sufficient quantity to obtain equivalent coverage, makes it possible to compensate for the adverse effects related to zinc oxide particles on the structure and the application and sensory properties of the stick, and thus restore the desired properties (comparable to the control with TiO2) in a composition without TiO2. Example 2: Formulations

[0139] The following examples are illustrative and non-limiting examples of the invention, prepared according to methods well known to the cosmetic formulator.

[0140] 2.1 Anhydrous lip balm

[0141] [Tables3] INGREDIENTS % SILICA 5.0 POLYETHYLENE WAX 5.5 CANDELILLA WAX 3.0 SHEA BUTTER 1.5 IRON OXIDE (red) 5.0 ORGANIC PIGMENTS (LACKS) 2.0 BORON NITRIDE PARTICLES 0.15 ZINC OXIDE PARTICLES NC 3.0 POLYDECENE HYDROGEN QSP100

[0142] The lipstick exhibits the expected properties in terms of structure and application feel. When applied to the lips, the lipstick provides good coverage and color with a smooth, even application.

[0143] 2.2 Anhydrous eyeshadow

[0144] [Tables4] Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight SILICA 15 SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE 10 IRON OXIDE 8 ZINC OXIDE PARTICLES NC 10 BORON NITRIDE PARTICLES 3 MOTHER-OF-PEARL 2 OILS AND WAXES Qsp 100

[0145] The eyeshadow, packaged in a small dish, exhibits the expected properties in terms of structure and application feel. When applied to the eyelids, the eyeshadow provides coverage and a pearlescent effect with a smooth, even application.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Zinc oxide particles, (ii) Boron nitride particles, and (iii) One or more waxes, characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, further characterized in that the content of zinc oxide particles ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and further characterized in that the weight ratio between zinc oxide particles and boron nitride particles ranges from 99:1 to 50:

50.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total wax content(s) ranges from 3 to 25% preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that it further comprises one or more pasty fats.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the zinc oxide particle content ranges from 0.2 to 40% by weight, in particular from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the content of boron nitride particles ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight and better from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the weight ratio between zinc oxide particles and boron nitride particles ranges from 99:1 to 80:20, preferably from 99:1 to 90:

10.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further comprises another additional ingredient selected from lipophilic gelling agents, additional fillers, additional coloring materials and mixtures thereof.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a jar or cup.

10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 9, characterized in that it is a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow or eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip stick.

11. A cosmetic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.