COMPOSITIONS SUITABLE AS FIXATIVES
The fixative composition stabilizes polyphenols in cosmetic products by using a solvent system with water and C2-C5 monoalcohol, addressing stability and comfort issues in long-lasting makeup, enhancing hold and resistance to external forces.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022006839
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-04-28
- Filing Date
- 2022-07-05
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-11
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-07-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions for long-lasting makeup lack stability, comfort, and environmental sustainability, particularly in the presence of polyphenols like tannic acid, which are prone to hydrolysis, aggregation, and oxidation, affecting color stability.
A fixative composition comprising polyphenols with at least two different phenol groups, a nonionic surfactant with a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) ≥ 7 and a solvent system of at least 10% water and C2-C5 monoalcohol to inhibit precipitate formation, along with a gelling agent, ensuring improved stability and comfort.
The composition provides enhanced hold and resistance to external forces while maintaining comfort and environmental sustainability, with reduced precipitation and oxidation of polyphenols, ensuring long-lasting cosmetic effects.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITIONS SUITABLE AS FIXATIVES
[0001] The present invention relates to compositions, in particular to fixative compositions for cosmetic products, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; (2) at least one nonionic compound Y which is a surfactant having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) greater than or equal to 7, has at least one carbon chain having at least 8 carbon atoms, and has at least one (poly)glycerolated chain and / or one polyoxyalkylenated chain; and (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of a precipitate of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application, as well as methods, kits and assemblies comprising such compositions in a container(s) or in application.
[0002] REVIEW OF THE CONTEXT
[0003] Currently, on the market for the care and makeup of keratin materials, many products claim to have all-day hold, resistant to external factors such as water, sebum, mechanical friction, etc. (waterproof mascara, meal-resistant lipsticks, long-lasting foundations). Long-lasting products for the lips, eyelashes, eyebrows or face, which can be used at home, are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents. For lip makeup and facial makeup, compositions are known comprising a silicone resin as a coating agent, such as the compound having the INCI name: Trimethylsiloxysilicate or a compound having the INCI name: Polypropylsilsesquioxane, or alternatively a silicone acrylate copolymer such as the product having the INCI name: Acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer).Long-lasting makeup products for eyelashes and / or eyebrows (mascaras, eyeliners) use waxes or film-forming polymer particles in aqueous suspension of the latex type (namely: styrene / acrylate copolymers).
[0004] In addition to these long-lasting products, the current trend is towards semi-permanent makeup. Especially in recent years, classic makeup products have found themselves in competition with the semi-permanent makeup market in professional salons. It is found in the eye makeup sector (semi-permanent mascara, permanent eyelash makeup, extensions eyelashes, etc.), eyebrows (semi-pigmentation known as blade pigmentation), complexion (freckles, moles or the entire face, healthy glow effect or radiant complexion) or lips (semi-permanent tattoo). This new trend is pushing consumers to look for longer and longer lasting results for greater practicality (avoiding having to apply and remove makeup daily, healthy glow effect upon waking, etc.).
[0005] However, consumers, who are increasingly demanding regarding the composition of their cosmetic products, are also seeking to use products whose ingredients are well tolerated, such as natural ingredients, whose ingredients have a low or zero environmental impact and / or whose ingredients are compatible with numerous packagings.
[0006] The aim of the present invention is to provide compositions which offer excellent hold of the expected cosmetic effects, in particular of the color of the makeup on keratin materials (skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows) which can prolong the duration of the cosmetic composition on the keratin materials, as well as improve the hold of the cosmetic composition on the keratin materials and its resistance to external forces such as mechanical friction, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, etc.
[0007] Furthermore, the aim of the present invention is to provide compositions which offer a hold of the expected cosmetic effects, in particular of the color of the makeup on keratin materials, associated with a good level of comfort in comparison with conventional systems, in particular based on silicone resin.
[0008] The use of tannic acid in compositions has been reported. For example, CN104971200 is titled "Tannic acid pH-stable hemorrhoid gel and preparation method thereof" and describes as an object to provide a pH-stable tannic acid hemorrhoid gel such that when the gel comes into contact with weakly alkaline anal tissue and weakly alkaline stool, it can always maintain pH = 4.5-4.8, so that tannic acid and other raw materials act synergistically, play a better role in astringent healing of hemorrhoids.
[0009] Furthermore, document CN108175765 is entitled "Acid-sensitive controlled-release anti-inflammatory gel as well as preparation method and application thereof", where the object is to design a hyaluronic acid hydrogel structure according to the characteristics of pH drop caused by accumulation of inflammatory metabolites in the joint cavity, to provide an acid-sensitive controlled-release anti-inflammatory gel which is formed by phenyl-boronic acid modified hyaluronic acid and tannic acid under neutral to weakly alkaline conditions.
[0010] Document US 8,377,853 (corresponding to CA2649412) is entitled “Aqueous gels for well bore strengthening" and discloses in the abstract "A method of treating a geological formation is disclosed, the method may include: injecting a gelling agent into the geological formation; injecting a crosslinking agent into the geological formation; and reacting the gelling agent and the crosslinking agent to form a gel. The gelling agent may include at least one of a lignin, a lignosulfonate, a tannin, a tannic acid, a modified lignin, a modified lignosulfonate, a modified tannin, a modified tannic acid, biopolymers, starches, carboxymethylcellulose, polyacrylates, polyacrylamides, polyamines, polyether amines, polyvinyl amines, polyethylene imines and combinations thereof.The crosslinking agent may include at least one of ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, propylene glycol diglycidyl ether, butylene glycol diglycidyl ether, sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, trimethylolpropane triglycidyl ether, sorbitol polyglycidyl ether, neopentyl glycol diglycidyl ether, epoxidized 1,6-hexanediol, aziridine derivatives, epoxy-functionalized polyalkalene glycols, oxidized starch, polymeric dialdehyde, aldehyde adduct, tetramethoxy propane, hydrolyzed acetal, and combinations thereof.” .
[0011] Furthermore, the general stabilizing effects of compositions using various ingredients have also been reported, such as in Effect of Sodium Metabisulfite and Disodium Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) on the Stability of Ascorbic Acid in Vitamin C Syrup, Researcher 2014; 6(10), which relates to the use of EDTA and sodium metabisulfite and additional ascorbic acid to improve the stability of vitamin C syrup.
[0012] There remains a need to provide improved compositions such as fixative compositions having improved properties with respect to ease and / or comfort of application of the composition, stability of the composition and / or stability of the color of the composition, and in particular improved properties related to the presence of polyphenols such as tannic acid in the compositions including properties such as improved stability of the polyphenols with respect to hydrolysis, aggregation and / or oxidation which affects the stability of the color of the composition.
[0013] Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, in particular a fixative composition, which has improved properties with respect to ease and / or comfort of application of the composition, stability of the composition and / or color stability of the composition, and in particular improved properties related to the presence of polyphenols such as tannic acid in the compositions including properties such as improved stability of the polyphenols with respect to hydrolysis, aggregation and / or oxidation which affects the color stability of the composition. Summary of the invention
[0014] The present invention relates to compositions, in particular to fixative compositions for cosmetic products, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; (2) at least one nonionic compound Y which is a surfactant having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) greater than or equal to 7, has at least one carbon chain having at least 8 carbon atoms, and has at least one (poly)glycerolated chain and / or one polyoxyalkylenated chain; and (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of a precipitate of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application. Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one gelling agent.Preferably further, the composition is a gel composition and / or has a pH of less than 7.
[0015] The present invention also relates to methods for caring for and / or making up keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to care for the keratinous material and / or to make it up.
[0016] The present invention also relates to methods of fixing a cosmetic composition (e.g., color coat composition) and / or priming keratinous material for a cosmetic composition (e.g., color coat composition) by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material (primer) and / or to a cosmetic composition (e.g., color coat composition) previously applied to the keratinous material (fixation) in an amount sufficient to prime the keratinous material for the cosmetic composition and / or in an amount sufficient to achieve fixation of the cosmetic composition previously applied to the keratinous material.
[0017] The present invention also relates to kits comprising, as separate compositions in one or more containers within the kits, (A) a composition, in particular a fixative composition for cosmetic products, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; (2) at least one nonionic compound Y which is a surfactant having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) greater than or equal to 7, has at least one carbon chain having at least 8 carbon atoms, and has at least one (poly)glycerolated chain and / or one polyoxyalkylenated chain; and (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to by the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of a precipitate of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application; and (B) at least one color coat composition comprising at least one colorant. Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one gelling agent. Further preferably, the composition is a gel composition and / or has a pH of less than 7.
[0018] The present invention also relates to assemblies, as applied to a keratinous material, comprising (A) at least a first layer of at least one color layer composition; and (B) at least a second layer of at least one composition, in particular a fixative composition for cosmetic products, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; (2) at least one nonionic compound Y which is a surfactant having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) greater than or equal to 7, has at least one carbon chain having at least 8 carbon atoms, and has at least one (poly)glycerolated chain and / or one polyoxyalkylenated chain; and (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of a precipitate of compound X and compound Y in the composition prior to application. Preferably the at least one second layer is applied over the at least one first layer (in which case the second layer is a fixative layer formed by applying a fixative composition to the first layer). However, if the at least one first layer is applied over the at least one second layer, the at least one second layer is a primer layer formed by applying a primer composition over a keratinous material). Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one gelling agent. Further preferably, the composition is a gel composition and / or has a pH of less than 7. ;
[0019] It should be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are provided by way of example and explanation only, and do not limit the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0020] In the following description of the invention and the claims appended thereto, it is to be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and customary meanings in the art, unless otherwise indicated.
[0021] “Approximately” as used herein means within 10% of the number indicated (e.g., “ “about 10%” means 9% to 11% and “about 2%” means 1.8% to 2.2%.
[0022] “a” or “an” as used herein means “at least one”
[0023] “At least one” means one or more and thus includes components in individual as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0024] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, and all combinations of subranges therein. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc.
[0025] “Film former”, “film-forming polymer” or “film-forming agent” as used herein means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film-forming material has evaporated, been absorbed into, and / or dissipated on the substrate.
[0026] “Wax” as used herein means a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at tem room temperature (25°C) and changes from the solid state to the liquid state reversibly, having a melting temperature greater than 30°C and, for example, greater than 45°C, and a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa at room temperature.
[0027] “Surfactant” and “emulsifier” are used interchangeably throughout throughout this memorandum.
[0028] “Substituted” as used herein means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.
[0029] “Volatile,” as used herein, means having a flash point less than about 100 ❖°C.
[0030] “Non-volatile,” as used herein, means having a flash point greater than about 100 ^C.
[0031] “Polymer” as used herein means a compound that is comprised of at least two monomers.
[0032] “Exempt” or “substantially free” or “devoid of” as used herein means that although it is preferable that no amount of the specific component be present in the composition, it is possible for there to be very small amounts thereof in the compositions of the invention provided that such amounts do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the beneficial properties of the conditioning compositions of the invention. Thus, for example, "free of triethanolamine (TEA)" means that an effective amount (i.e., greater than trace amounts) of TEA is omitted from the composition (i.e., about 0% by weight), "substantially free of TEA" means that TEA is present in amounts not exceeding 0.1% by weight, and "TEA-free" means that TEA is present in amounts not exceeding 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The same nomenclature applies to all other ingredients identified throughout the application and in this paragraph, such as, for example, oils (compositions of the invention that are "oil-free," "substantially free of oils," and "oil-free" have meanings consistent with the discussion within this paragraph), even if not specifically stated for each identified ingredient. The discussed examples of the use of such language are intended to be provided by way of example, not limitation.
[0033] The term "makeup result" as used herein refers to compositions where the color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as seen with the naked eye, after an extended period of time. The "makeup result" may be evaluated by evaluating long-lasting properties by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long-lasting may be evaluated by a test involving the application of a composition to keratinous materials such as the lips and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition may be evaluated immediately after application to keratinous materials such as the lips and these characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after a period of time.Further, these characteristics may be evaluated relative to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.
[0034] The expression "keratinous material" or "keratinous material" means natural nails, lips, skin such as that of the face, body, hands and the area around the eyes, and keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair of a human, as well as synthetic additions, such as false eyelashes, false eyebrows, false nails, etc.
[0035] The term "physiologically acceptable" means compatible with keratinous material and having a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and which does not cause unacceptable discomfort (tingling or tightness) that would discourage a consumer from using the composition. Acceptable pH levels for the compositions of the present invention are preferably acidic, i.e., less than 7, preferably 6.5 or less, preferably 6.0 or less, preferably 5.5 or less, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, such as, for example, 3 to 5, 4 to 6, 3 to 4.5, etc. The compositions of the present invention may be in the form of a gel composition.
[0036] The term "gel composition" means a composition that does not flow like a liquid when applied to a substrate, a composition that has a three-dimensional network that prevents the composition from spreading onto, or dripping from, a substrate after application due to gravity over a short period of time (e.g., in less than 10 seconds). G' (storage modulus) is greater than G” (loss modulus) in all strain ranges up to 300% strain. Preferably, G' (storage modulus) is greater than G” (loss modulus) at low strain, but with G' decreasing and G” increasing, the gel has a crossover point at >0.1% strain, preferably >1% strain, and preferably less than 200% strain, preferably less than 150% strain.
[0037] The term "gel crossover point" (Sol / Gel point) means the point at which G" (loss modulus) crosses G' (storage modulus), reported as % strain. This is the point at which a composition changes from a mostly solid state to a mostly liquid state. The following is an example of a method for determining a gel crossover point: G” (loss modulus) and G' (storage modulus) using a TA Instruments Discovery HR-3 rheometer, having a 40 mm parallel plate geometry on a flat stainless steel Peltier plate. The test may be run at 25°C with a test parameter of angular frequency of 1.0 rad / s and a logarithmic sweep: % strain from 0.01 to 1000.0%. 5 points per decade. Results reported as % strain.
[0038] The term "hydrogen bonding interaction" means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reactants and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reactant, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine. In the context of the invention, the hydrogen bond is formed between the hydroxyl (OH) functions of the reactive phenol groups of polyphenol X and the reactive hydroxyl groups of compound Y, which are capable of forming a hydrogen bond with those of said phenol groups of polyphenol X.
[0039] The expression "coating agent formed by interaction with hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with compound Y" means that the conditions are satisfied so that the reaction can be carried out between the two reagents, in particular that: (i) the amount of polyphenol X is sufficient in the composition containing it, and (ii) compound Y is soluble, miscible or solubilized by another solvent in the medium of the composition containing it, and (iii) compound Y has a sufficient number of hydrogen bond acceptor groups to react with the phenol groups of polyphenol X and, in the medium of the composition containing it, and (iv) compound Y, in the medium of the composition containing it does not include in its structure any group which does not allow the formation of a hydrogen bond with the functions of the reactive phenol groups of polyphenol X, such as, for example, one or more anionic groups.
[0040] A “natural compound” means any compound derived directly from a natural substance such as a plant without having undergone any chemical modification.
[0041] A "naturally occurring compound" means any compound derived from a natural compound that has undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by organic synthesis reaction, without the properties of the natural compound having been modified.
[0042] A “synthetic compound” means any compound that is not a natural compound or a naturally occurring compound.
[0043] “Room temperature” means 25°C.
[0044] “Atmospheric pressure” means 760 mmHg, or 105 pascals.
[0045] A “coating agent” means any compound that is capable of form a deposit on the surface of a keratin material to which it has been applied.
[0046] A "hydrogen bond inhibiting agent" means any compound which is capable of preventing a hydrogen bond interaction between polyphenol X and compound Y and / or which is capable of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bond.
[0047] A "precipitate" or "precipitation" refers to the result of a hydrogen bonding interaction between polyphenol X and compound Y in the composition.
[0048] An "aggregate" or "aggregation" means the result of decomposition of polyphenol X in the composition due to reactions such as hydrolysis and / or oxidation.
[0049] The compositions and methods of the present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful. For example, the solvent system may "consist essentially of" water and a C2-C5 monohydric alcohol and / or the surfactant system may "consist essentially of" an identified surfactant(s) or types of surfactants discussed below.
[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, the "fundamental and novel property" associated with the compositions, components and methods which "consist essentially of" the identified ingredients or actions is "stability of the polyphenol as evidenced by a reduced amount of precipitation of polyphenol X / non-ionic compound Y prior to application to a keratinous material."
[0051] Reference is made herein to trademarked names of materials including, but not limited to, polymers and optional components. The inventors herein do not intend to be limited to the materials described and referenced by a certain trademarked name. Equivalent materials (e.g., those obtained from a different source under a different catalog name or (reference) number) to those referenced by a trademarked name may be substituted and used in the methods described and claimed herein.
[0052] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise stated. All percentages are calculated based on the total weight of a composition unless otherwise stated. All component or composition levels refer to the active level of that component or composition, and are exclusive of impurities, e.g., residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources.
[0053] All US patents or patent applications disclosed herein are expressly incorporated by reference in their entirety.
[0054] Polyphenol X
[0055] The present invention relates to compositions comprising at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups.
[0056] The polyphenols X which can be used according to the present invention include in their structure at least two different phenol groups.
[0057] The term "polyphenol" designates any compound containing in its chemical structure at least two and preferably at least three phenol groups.
[0058] The term "phenol group" means any group comprising an aromatic ring, preferably a benzene ring, including at least one hydroxyl (OH) group.
[0059] The term "different phenol groups" refers to phenol groups that are chemically different.
[0060] The polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention can be synthetic or natural. They can be in isolated form or contained in a mixture, in particular contained in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenol groups which are differently substituted on the aromatic ring.
[0061] The two categories of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.
[0062] Examples of flavonoids that may be mentioned include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin or naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein or genistein; neoflavanoides; lignans such as pyrore-sorcinol; and mixtures thereof.
[0063] Among the natural polyphenols which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of lignins.
[0064] Examples of non-flavonoids that may be mentioned include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidin; and mixtures thereof.
[0065] As polyphenols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside, coumarins substituted by phenols.
[0066] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X will be chosen from catechic tannins such as gallotannins chosen from a tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, ves-calagin, vescaline, castaline, casuarictin, castanopsinins, excoecarianins, grandinin, gradinin, roburines, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, acid chebulagic, repan-disinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurine, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, co-riariin, cameliatannin, isodeshydrodigalloyl, dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, puni-calagin and rhoipteleanins.
[0067] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is an epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract having the INCI name Green Tea Extract (green tea extract), comprising in particular at least 45% of epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of said extract, for example, the product marketed under the name Dermofeel Phenon 90 MC® by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care or the product marketed under the name Tea Polyphenols Green Tea Extract® by the company Tayo Green Power.
[0068] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark having the INCI name Pinus pinaster Bark / Bud Extract, comprising in particular at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract, such as the product marketed under the name Pycnogenol® by the company Biolandes Arômes.
[0069] Tannic acid will be used more particularly in the form of polyphenol X.
[0070] According to a particular embodiment, the polyphenol(s) X according to the invention is / are preferably present in a content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.
[0071] According to a particular embodiment, the polyphenol(s) X according to the invention is / are preferably present in a content ranging from approximately 0.5 to approximately 30% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.75 to approximately 25% by weight, preferably from approximately 1 to approximately 25% by weight, and preferably from approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing it / them, including all ranges and sub-ranges between these ranges such as, for example, from 3 to 8% by weight, from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight, from 2 to 5% by weight, etc.
[0072] Non-ionic compound Y
[0073] The present invention relates to compositions comprising at least one non-ionic (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated compound Y. The non-ionic compound Y is preferably a surfactant having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) greater than or equal to 7, having at least one carbon chain having at least 8 carbon atoms, and having at least one (poly)glycerolated chain and / or one polyoxyalkylenated chain. Preferably, the non-ionic compound Y has a molar mass greater than 200 g / mol, preferably greater than 250 g / mol, preferably greater than 300 g / mol, and preferably less than 5,000 g / mol, preferably less than 3,500 g / mol, preferably less than 2,500 g / mol, including all ranges and sub-ranges between these ranges, including the ranges including the weights identified above, such as, for example, 250-1,500 g / mol, 350-3,500 g / mol, etc. as well as other ranges such as, for example, 500-2,000 g / mol, etc.
[0074] According to preferred embodiments, the nonionic compound Y has at least one carbon chain having from about 8 to about 50 carbon atoms, preferably from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 8 to about 26 carbon atoms, preferably from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, preferably from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, and preferably from about 8 to about 16 carbon atoms, including all ranges and sub-ranges between these ranges such as from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, etc. The at least one carbon chain may be unsaturated (e.g., oleate) or saturated (e.g., caprylate) and / or straight (e.g., laurate) or branched (e.g., isostearate).
[0075] Preferably, the non-ionic compound Y has only one carbon chain (e.g., an ester such as a caprate), although it is possible for the non-ionic compound Y to have two or more carbon chains (e.g., a diester). If two or more carbon chains are present, the chains may be identical (e.g., example, a diester such as a dicaprylate or a triester such as a tricaprate, etc.) or different (e.g., a mixture of esters such as those found in natural sources such as rapeseed oil (e.g., PEG-4 rapeseed amide) or coconut oil (e.g., PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate), or a mixture of esters such as caprate and caprylate).
[0076] According to preferred embodiments, the non-ionic compound Y has a (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated chain. Each chain present may contain respectively one or more (poly)glycerolated units (i.e., one or more of these units - for example, 2 of these units in polyglyceryl-2 oleate) and / or multiple oxyalkylenated units (i.e., two or more of these units) (i.e., four of these units in a polyethylene glycol-4 (PEG-4) modified compound such as PEG-4 caprylate / caprate). The number of glycerolated and / or polyalkylenated units present in the chain(s) may vary and may depend on the length of the carbon chain(s) present in order to provide a hydrophobic-lipophilic balance of 7 or more for the non-ionic compound Y. In addition, the non-ionic compound Y may contain both (poly)glycerolated (e.g., a single glyceryl) and polyoxyalkylenated chains, such as in the compound PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
[0077] According to preferred embodiments, the non-ionic compound Y has at least one (poly)glycerolated chain containing one or more glycerolated units such as, for example, 1 to 100 glycerolated units, preferably 1 to 75 glycerolated units, preferably 1 to 50 glycerolated units, preferably 1 to 25 glycerolated units, preferably 1 to 15 glycerolated units, preferably 1 to 10 glycerolated units, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween such as 1 to 8 glycerolated units, 2 to 20 glycerolated units, 3 to 30 glycerolated units, 2 to 9 glycerolated units and 5 to 25 glycerol unit(s), etc.
[0078] According to preferred embodiments, the non-ionic compound Y has at least one polyoxyalkylene chain containing two or more oxyalkylene units such as, for example, 2 to 100 oxyalkylene units, preferably 2 to 75 oxyalkylene units, preferably 2 to 50 oxyalkylene units, preferably 2 to 25 oxyalkylene units, preferably 2 to 15 oxyalkylene units, preferably 2 to 10 oxyalkylene units, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween such as 2 to 9 oxyalkylene units, 3 to 20 oxyalkylene units, 5 to 30 oxyalkylene units, 10 to 50 oxyalkylene units and 7 to 25 oxyalkylene units, etc.
[0079] According to preferred embodiments, the non-ionic compound Y has an HLB value of 7 or more, preferably an HLB value of 8 or more, preferably an HLB value of 9 or more, and preferably an HLB value of 10 or more,
[0080] According to preferred embodiments, the non-ionic compound Y is selected from the group consisting of surfactants having an HLB value of 7, which possess (1) a or more carbon chains having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and one chain having 2 to 9 polyoxyalkylene units, (2) two or more carbon chains having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and one chain having 10 or more polyglycerolated units, (3) a single carbon chain having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and one chain having 2 to 9 polyglycerolated units, or (4) mixtures thereof.
[0081] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "polyoxyalkylene compound" designates any molecule comprising in its chemical structure at least one chain comprising oxyalkylene units, in particular oxyethylene units - (OCH2 CH2)n and / or oxypropylene units - (OCH2CH2CH2)p, where n and p are greater than or equal to 2.
[0082] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "polyglycerolated compound" means any molecule comprising in its chemical structure a glycerol group or a chain comprising glycerol units -(O-CH2-CHOH-CH2)m, where m is greater than or equal to 2; the expression "glycerolated compound" means any molecule comprising in its chemical structure a glycerol group or a chain comprising glycerol units -(O-CH2-CHOH-CH2)m, where m is equal to 1; and the expression "(poly)glycerolated compound" means any molecule comprising in its chemical structure a glycerol group or a chain comprising glycerol units -(O-CH2-CHOH-CH2)m, where m is greater than or equal to 1.
[0083] In a preferred embodiment, the molar mass of compound Y is greater than 350 g / mol.
[0084] As examples of monoglycerolated or (poly)glycerolated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic Y compounds, the following compounds may be mentioned:
[0085] (1) glycerolated alkyl ethers such as glyceryl lauryl ether,
[0086] (2) nonionic surfactants of (poly)glycerolated alkyl ether, in particular chosen among polyglyceryl-2-oleyl ether and polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether,
[0087] (3) glycerol or polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, which are optionally poly- hydroxylated and in particular chosen from polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate and glyceryl stearate citrate,
[0088] (4) Polyoxyethylenated or (poly)glycerolated waxes, in particular chosen from polyoxyethylene ester waxes such as polyoxyethylene jojoba wax, PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin and Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax,
[0089] (5) polyethylene glycols of the H(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH type,
[0090] (6) poloxamers of the HO-(CH2-CH2-O)n-(CHCH3-CH2-O)O-(CH2-CH2-O)pH type,
[0091] (7) polypropylene glycol alkyl ethers of the type: CnH2n+1-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH chosen in particular from PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-5-Ceteth-20 and PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30,
[0092] (8) compounds of the type: H(OC(CnH2n+1)-CH2)o-(CH2-CH2-O)p-(CH2-C(CqH2q+1)HO)rH in particular, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer.
[0093] (9) compounds of the type: CnH2n+1-(O-CH2-CH2)oO-CH2-C(CpH2p+1)HOH in particular, Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol,
[0094] (10) polyoxyethylenated glycerols,
[0095] (11) Alkylpolyethylene glycols of the type CnH2n+r(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH, chosen from particular among Ceteth-2, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-25, Isoceteth-20, Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4, Laureth-12, Laureth-23, Oleth-2, Oleth-5, Oleth-10, Oleth-20, Oleth-25, Deceth-3, Deceth-5, Beheneth-10, Steareth-2, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-100, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, Coceth-7 and Trideceth-12,
[0096] (12) polyoxyethylenated alkylamines of the type CH3-(CH2)n-(CH=CH)o-(CH)pN((CH2 - CH2-O)H)q((CH2-CH2-O)rH), in particular: PEG-2-01eamine,
[0097] (13) polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters of the type CnH2n+1-(CH=CH2)o-CpH2p-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH or CnH2n+1-(CH=CH)o-CpH2p-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-CrH2r+1 or CnH2n+1-(CH=CH)o-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CnH2n+1 or CnH2n+iO-CH(alkyl)-(CH2)p-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-CrH2r+i chosen in particular from PEG-6 isostearate, PEG-6 stearate, PEG-6 stearate PEG-8, PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-75 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-150 distearate, mereth-3 myristate, PEG-4 olivate, ceteth-3 propylene glycol acetate and PEG-30 dihydroxystearate,
[0098] (14) polyoxyethylenated alkylglycerides, chosen in particular from PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides and PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides,
[0099] (15) polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses,
[0100] (16) polyoxyethylenated sugar esters such as PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Ses- quistearate,
[0101] (17) Polyoxyalkylenated alkyl glycol ethers such as PPG-l-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether,
[0102] (18) polyoxyethylenated or (poly)glycerolated pentaerythritol esters and ethers,
[0103] (19) polysorbates, in particular chosen from Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-21, Po- lysorbate-60, Polysorbate-61, Polysorbate-80 and Polysorbate-85,
[0104] (20) polyoxyethylenated polyamines, in particular PEG-15 Cocopolyamine,
[0105] (21) polyoxyethylenated dihydrocholesteryl esters of structure: in particular Dihydrocholeth-30,
[0106] (22) polyoxyethylenated ingredients chosen from PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm / Palm Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters and PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate,
[0107] (23) polyoxyethylenated butters, in particular polyoxyethylenated shea butter,
[0108] (24) polyoxyalkylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated silicones, in particular chosen among PEG / PPG-17 / 18 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone, Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone and PEG / PPG-22 / 24 Dimethicone,
[0109] (25) polyoxyalkylenated and / or (poly)glycerolated silanes, in particular chosen from Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane and Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane,
[0110] (26) polyoxyethylenated or (poly)glycerolated acrylate copolymers, in particular copolymer with the INCI name: Acrylate / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer,
[0111] (27) polyoxyalkylenated alkanediols such as PEG-8 Caprylyl Glycol,
[0112] (28) polyoxyethylenated rapeseed amides and sterols, in particular PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol,
[0113] (29) polyoxyethylenated lanolins such as Laneth-15,
[0114] (30) polyoxyethylenated sorbitol fatty acid esters such as PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate,
[0115] (31) polyoxyethylenated glycerolated esters such as Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate,
[0116] (32) polyoxyethylenated or (poly)glycerolated acrylate copolymers, in particular copolymer having the INCI name: Acrylate / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, and
[0117] (33) mixtures thereof.
[0118] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) Y will be chosen from polyglycerol fatty acid esters, in particular polyglyceryl-2 oleate, poly-glyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate; polyethylene glycols such as PEG-6 caprylic / capric glyceride, PEG-7 caprylic / capric glyceride, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate; and mixtures thereof.
[0119] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) Y according to the invention is / are preferably present in a content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, more particularly greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it(them).
[0120] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) Y according to the invention is / are preferably present in a content of approximately 0.5 to approximately 30% by weight, preferably approximately 0.75 to approximately 25% by weight, preferably approximately 1 to approximately 25% by weight, and preferably approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing it(s), including all the ranges and sub-ranges between them such as, for example, from 3 to 8% by weight, from 0.5% to 7.5% by weight, from 2 to 5% by weight, etc.
[0121] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the molar ratio of the reactive hydroxyl groups (OH) of the polyphenol(s) X to the hydroxyl groups of the compound(s) Y which are reactive with those of the polyphenol(s) X preferably ranges from 1 / 3 to 20 (20 / 1), preferably from 1 / 2 to 15 (15 / 1) and preferably from 3 / 4 to 4 (4 / 1).
[0122] Solvent system
[0123] The present invention provides compositions comprising a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of a precipitate of compound X and compound Y in the composition prior to application.
[0124] Suitable C2-C5 monohydric alcohols include ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and isopentanol. Ethanol is particularly preferred.
[0125] Preferably, the C2-C5 monoalcohol(s) is / are present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of a precipitate of Compound X and Compound Y in the composition prior to application. Preferably, the C2-C5 monoalcohol(s) is / are present in the compositions of the present invention in amounts ranging from about 5% to about 75%, preferably from about 10% to about 65%, preferably from about 20% to about 60%, and preferably from about 30% to about 60%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween such as, for example, from about 35% to about 55%. According to preferred embodiments, the C2-C5 monoalcohol(s) is / are present in the compositions of the present invention in amounts less than or equal to 55% so as to minimize or reduce undesirable effects when the compositions of the present invention are applied over cosmetic compositions previously applied to the keratinous material (for example, a foundation on the skin).
[0126] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention further comprise water. Preferably, the compositions comprise at least about 10% water by weight, preferably in amounts of about 10% to about 75%, preferably about 15% to about 65%, preferably about 20% to about 55%, and preferably about 25% to about 50%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, such as, for example, about 35% to about 55%.
[0127] Preferably, the solvent component of the compositions of the present invention consists essentially of, or consists of, water and C2-C5 monohydric alcohols. Preferably, the solvent component of the composition is "free of", "lacking" or "substantially free of" solvents other than water and C2-C5 monohydric alcohols.
[0128] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are free, free of, or substantially free of oils.
[0129] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are free, free of, or substantially free of waxes.
[0130] Gelling agent
[0131] Preferred embodiments of the present invention provide compositions further comprising at least one gelling agent. Suitable gelling agents include any gelling agents, such as, for example, those capable of providing thickening to a high alcohol solvent system such as, for example, acrylic acid (co)polymers, such as high molecular weight homo- or co-polymers comprising acrylic acid, optionally crosslinked with a polyalkenyl polyether, including certain polymers identified as "carbomer" as well as amphiphilic polymers. Preferably, the gelling agent is an amphiphilic polymer.
[0132] The gelling agents, preferably amphiphilic polymers, may comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer, preferably containing a sulfonic group, in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form.
[0133] The amphiphilic polymers may comprise at least one hydrophobic portion. The hydrophobic portion present in these "polymers" preferably contains from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all the beaches and sub-beaches between them.
[0134] The amphiphilic polymers may have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, and preferably from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.
[0135] The amphiphilic polymers may be based on at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomer A and on at least one hydrophobic monomer B. Preferably, the monomer A comprises a strong acid function, in particular a sulfonic acid or phosphonic acid function.The hydrophobic monomer B comprises at least one hydrophobic radical, selected from: saturated or unsaturated C6-C18 linear alkyl radicals (e.g., n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl); branched alkyl radicals (e.g., isostearic) or cyclic alkyl radicals (e.g., cyclododecane or adamantane); C6-C18 fluoro or alkylfluoro radicals (e.g., the group of formula —(CH2)2—(CF2)9—CF3); a cholesteryl radical or radicals derived from cholesterol (e.g., cholesteryl hexanoate); aromatic polycyclic groups, e.g., naphthalene or pyrene; and silicone or alkyl-silicone or alkylfluorosilicone radicals. Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are preferred.
[0136] Amphiphilic polymers may be water-soluble or water-dispersible in neutralized form.
[0137] The amphiphilic polymers may be crosslinked. The crosslinking agents may be chosen, for example, from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking preferably ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol%, and preferably from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol%, relative to the polymer, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
[0138] The amphiphilic polymers can be homopolymers or copolymers.
[0139] The amphiphilic polymers may be partially or completely neutralized with an inorganic base (e.g., sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or liquid ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, or basic amino acids, e.g., arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.
[0140] The amphiphilic polymers may be water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers such as, for example, optionally crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE) such as the product marketed under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS@ by Clariant.
[0141] The amphiphilic polymers may be chosen from crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic polymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic portion containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
[0142] Suitable examples of amphiphilic polymers include, but are not limited to, hydrophobically modified sulfonic acid copolymers such as Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer (Clariant's Aristoflex AVC), Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer (Clariant's Aristoflex HMB) (crosslinked ethoxylated AMPS / behenyl methacrylate), Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer (Aristoflex HMS) (ethoxylated AMPS / stearyl methacrylate copolymer crosslinked with trimethylol triacrylate), Aristoflex SNC (crosslinked ethoxylated AMPS / C16-C18), Aristoflex LNC (uncrosslinked AMPS / C12-C14), and mixtures of these.
[0143] Preferably, where appropriate, the gelling agent(s) is / are present in the compositions of the present invention in amounts ranging from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2% and most preferably from 0.5 to 1% by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween such as, for example, 0.1 to 1.5%, 0.25 to 1.25%, 0.4 to 0.75%, etc.
[0144] Other agents
[0145] The present invention provides compositions further optionally comprising at least one agent selected from the group consisting of (i) at least one chelating agent; (ii) at least one antioxidant selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid compounds, sulfur-containing antioxidants and mixtures thereof, (iii) at least one non-mineral filler; and (iv) mixtures thereof.
[0146] Although all the ingredients of the preceding paragraph are optional (the presence of these ingredients is not necessary), the compositions of the present invention preferably comprise at least one of these agents (i)-(iii), preferably at least two of these agents (i)-(iii) and preferably at least three of these agents (i)-(iii).
[0147] Chelating agent
[0148] Preferred embodiments of the present invention provide compositions further comprising at least one chelating agent. These chelating agents are known in the art and described, for example, in the encyclopedia "Chelating agents" Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Vol. 5 pp. 708-739, published in 2003 and subsequent editions.
[0149] Suitable chelating agents include, but are not limited to, polyphosphates, aminocarboxylic acids, 1,3-diketones, hydroxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, amino alcohols, heterocyclic aromatic bases, aminophenols, Schiff bases, tetrapyrroles, sulfur compounds, synthetic macrocyclic compounds and polymers and phosphonic acids. Preferably, the chelating agents are selected from aminocarboxylic acids.
[0150] Specific examples of suitable chelating agents include, but are not limited to, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate, sodium staminate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, tetraacetic acid, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), and mixtures thereof.
[0151] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the invention comprise chelating agent(s) in an amount ranging from about 0.0001 to about 5%, preferably from about 0.0002 to about 3%, preferably from about 0.002 to about 1%, and preferably from about 0.005 to 1%, by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween such as, for example, from 0.002 to 0.007%, from 0.001 to 4%, from 0.00025 to 1.25%, etc.
[0152] Antioxidants
[0153] Preferred embodiments of the present invention provide compositions further comprising at least one antioxidant selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid compounds, sulfur-containing antioxidants, and mixtures thereof.
[0154] Preferably, the antioxidant component of the compositions of the present invention consists essentially of, or consists of, ascorbic acid compounds, sulfur-containing antioxidants and mixtures thereof.
[0155] Preferably, the antioxidant component of the composition is "free", "lacking" or "substantially free" of antioxidants other than ascorbic acid compounds, sulfur-containing antioxidants and mixtures thereof.
[0156] Ascorbic acid compound
[0157] Preferred embodiments provide compositions further comprising at least one ascorbic acid compound. The ascorbic acid compound may be vitamin C (ascorbic acid) or substituted versions of vitamin C. The ascorbic acid compound(s) may serve as antioxidants in the compositions of the invention and are thus preferably added in effective amounts of antioxidant.
[0158] Suitable ascorbic acid compounds include ascorbic acid esters (Vitamin C) which include, but are not limited to, water-soluble or fat-soluble ester(s) of ascorbic acid, such as, for example, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate and mixtures thereof.
[0159] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the invention comprise ascorbic acid compound(s) in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05 to about 3%, preferably from about 0.1 to about 1%, and preferably from about 0.25 to 0.75%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween such as, for example, from 0.1 to 3%, from 0.2 to 1%, from 0.075 to 0.75%, etc.
[0160] Sulfur-containing antioxidant
[0161] Preferred embodiments provide compositions further comprising at least one sulfur-containing antioxidant compound. These compounds serve as antioxidants in the compositions of the invention and are thus preferably added in effective antioxidant amounts.
[0162] Suitable sulfur-containing antioxidant compounds for use in the compositions of the invention include, but are not limited to, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (or ammonium) sulfites and / or bisulfites such as potassium sulfite, sodium sulfite, potassium bisulfite, sodium bisulfite, potassium metabisulfite and sodium metabisulfite, and substituted or unsubstituted sulfur-containing amino acids such as, for example, cysteine, methionine and taurine, and substituted derivatives thereof such as N-acetylcysteine and cysteine hydrochloride, glutathione, and mixtures thereof.
[0163] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the invention comprise sulfur-containing antioxidant(s) in an amount ranging from about 0.0001 to about 0.5%, preferably from about 0.0005 to about 0.1%, preferably from about 0.001 to about 0.075%, and most preferably from about 0.01 to 0.05%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween such as, for example, from 0.1 to 0.3%, from 0.02 to 0.075%, from 0.075 to 0.25%, etc.
[0164] Non-mineral filler
[0165] Preferred embodiments provide compositions further comprising at least one non-mineral filler. The term "non-mineral filler" as used herein means a filler that does not contain mineral elements, more particularly a filler that does not contain more than 1% of mo- metal compounds. novalent or divalent.
[0166] For example, silica (containing silicon and oxygen) is a non-mineral filler. However, magnesium aluminum silicate (and other metal silicates such as lithium magnesium sodium silicate), perlite (containing significant amounts of aluminum), and kaolin (containing significant amounts of aluminum) are mineral fillers.
[0167] Preferably, the non-mineral filler(s) have an apparent diameter ranging from 0.01 to 150 pm, preferably from 0.5 to 120 pm, and preferably from 1 to 80 pm. An apparent diameter corresponds to the diameter of the circle in which the elementary particle fits along its shortest dimension (the thickness for the sheets).
[0168] Preferably, the non-mineral filler(s) are lamellar, spherical or oblong.
[0169] Suitable non-mineral fillers include, but are not limited to, silica, modified and / or unmodified polyamide powders such as Nylon® powder (e.g., nylon 12) and modified polyamide powders such as, for example, modified with a coating or shell (e.g., polyvinyl alcohol shell) and / or with an attached optical brightener, poly-[3-alanine] powder, polyethylene powder, acrylic polymer powder and in particular, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powder, acrylic acid copolymer powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, lauroyl lysine, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, e.g., Expancel® (Nobel Industries), hollow polymer microspheres (e.g., Toshiba's Tospearl®), hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos),cellulose particles including microcrystalline cellulose particles and polyester particles.
[0170] The non-mineral filler(s) may be surface-treated, for example, to make them lipophilic. However, the non-mineral filler(s) may also be surface-untreated.
[0171] When surface-treated, suitable surface treatments include, but are not limited to, trimethylsiloxyl groups which are obtained, for example, by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate", according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are sold, or manufactured, for example, under the references "Aerosil R812®" by the company Degussa and "CAB-O-SIL TS-530®" by the company Cabot; dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained, for example, by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are manufactured or sold, for example, under the references "Aerosil R972®" and "Aerosil R974®" by the company Degussa, and "CAB-O-SIL TS-610®" and "CAB-O-SIL TS-720®" by the company Cabot; the groups derived from the reaction of fumed silica with silano-alkoxides or siloxanes. These treated silicas are, for example, the products manufactured or sold under the reference "Aerosil R805®" by the company Degussa.
[0172] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the invention comprise non-mineral filler(s) in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 7.5%, preferably from about 0.75 to about 5%, and preferably from about 1 to 3%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween such as, for example, from 2 to 5%, from 1 to 10%, from 0.8 to 5.5%, etc.
[0173] Oily phase
[0174] According to embodiments of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention may further optionally comprise at least one oil. An "oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is liquid at room temperature (25 ❖C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Suitable oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0175] Suitable oils include volatile silicone oils. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a room temperature viscosity of 6 cSt or less and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, such silicones being optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific oils that may be used in the invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof. Other volatile oils that may be used include KF 96A having a viscosity of 6 cSt, a commercial product from Shin Etsu having a flash point of 94°C. Preferably, volatile silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40°C.
[0176] Suitable oils include non-silicone volatile oils and may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile esters, and volatile ethers. Examples of such volatile non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular, C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, and, for example, oils marketed under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the volatile silicone-free oils have a flash point of at least 40°C.
[0177] Suitable oils include synthetic oils or esters of formula R5COOR 6 in which R5 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R6 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with R6 + R7 ❖ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters, for example isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; pentaerythritol esters; and synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0178] Optionally, the oil(s) is / are present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, more preferably from about 0.4% to about 15% by weight, and most preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges within those ranges.
[0179] According to preferred embodiments, however, the compositions of the present invention are substantially free, devoid of, or free of oils.
[0180] According to preferred embodiments, however, the compositions of the present invention are substantially free, devoid of, or free of volatile oils such as, for example, isododecane.
[0181] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are substantially free, devoid of or devoid of silicone oils such as, for example, dimethicone.
[0182] Coloring agents
[0183] Preferred embodiments of the present invention provide compositions optionally further comprising at least one coloring agent.
[0184] According to these embodiments, the at least one coloring agent is preferably chosen from pigments, dyes, such as fat-soluble dyes, pearlescent pigments and pearlescent agents.
[0185] Representative fat-soluble dyes that may be used according to the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, B-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow.
[0186] The pearlescent pigments which can be used according to the present invention can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment chosen from those mentioned above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0187] The pigments, which may be used according to the present invention, may be selected from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, non-polymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of inorganic pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum.
[0188] Optionally, coloring agents may be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount insufficient to impart visible color to the compositions (i.e., the colors of the compositions of the present invention are a result of factor(s) other than the presence of coloring effective amounts of coloring agents, such as, for example, the hydrolysis of polyphenol X which may impart color to the compositions) and / or in an amount insufficient to alter the visible color characteristics of a colored cosmetic composition (e.g., a makeup composition such as a foundation) when the composition of the present invention is used in conjunction with the colored cosmetic composition as a primer or setting composition. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are free, substantially free, or devoid of coloring agents as defined above.
[0189] Additional additives
[0190] The composition of the invention may also include any additive commonly used in the art. For example, film-forming agents, waxes, dispersants such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), sunscreens, preservatives, fragrances, fillers, neutralizing agents, cosmetic and dermatological active agents, moisturizers, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof may be added. A non-exhaustive list of such ingredients may be found in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2004 / 0170586, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Other examples of suitable additional components may be found in the other references that have been incorporated by reference into this application.Still further examples of such additional ingredients may be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th ed. 2002). However, it is to be understood that embodiments of the present invention include compositions that are "free", "substantially free" or "devoid of" the ingredients recited in this paragraph such as film-forming agents and waxes.
[0191] A person skilled in the art will take care to select any additional additives and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not significantly, compromised by the envisaged addition.
[0192] These substances can be chosen in various ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, consistency or texture.
[0193] It goes without saying that the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely that it must contain a physiologically acceptable non-toxic medium and must be able to be applied to the eyelashes of human beings.
[0194] Preferred embodiments of the present invention provide methods of caring for, and / or making up, and / or caring for keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to care for, and / or make up, the keratinous material. Similarly, preferred embodiments of the present invention include methods of priming the keratinous material for a cosmetic composition and / or fixing a cosmetic composition that has been previously applied to the keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention on top of the keratinous material before applying a cosmetic composition (priming) and / or by applying compositions of the present invention on top of a cosmetic composition previously applied to the keratinous material (fixing).
[0195] Preferably, "making up" the keratin material includes applying at least one coloring agent to the keratin material (either in the composition itself or in a color layer composition applied either above or below the composition as described above) in an amount sufficient to impart color to the keratin material.
[0196] According to the foregoing preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are topically applied to the desired keratinous material. The compositions may be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once daily, and then preferably allowed to dry before subjecting them to contact such as with clothing or other objects (e.g., a color coat composition or a top coat applied over the composition). Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for about 1 minute or less, more preferably for about 45 seconds or less.
[0197] Preferred embodiments of the present invention provide methods of stabilizing polyphenols X with respect to aggregation reduction as defined above, wherein the composition, in particular a hardener composition for cosmetic products, comprises (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, (2) at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y, and (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of a precipitate of compound X and compound Y in the composition prior to application, to the composition during preparation of the composition in an amount sufficient to stabilize the polyphenol X with respect to a reduction in the precipitation of polyphenol X and nonionic compound in the composition prior to application to a keratinous material. The amounts of the at least one nonionic compound Y, water and C2-C5 monohydric alcohol(s) added to the composition during preparation of the composition to stabilize the polyphenol are preferably the amounts indicated above in connection with these ingredients..
[0198] Preferred embodiments of the present invention provide kits comprising, as separate compositions in one or more containers within the kits, (A) a composition, in particular a fixative composition for cosmetic products, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, (2) at least one (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic compound Y, (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of a precipitate of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application; and (B) at least one other composition such as a color coat composition comprising at least one colorant. Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one gelling agent.Preferably further, the composition is a gel composition and / or has a pH of less than 7.
[0199] Compositions (A) and (B) may be contained in different portions or sections of the same container within the kit. However, compositions (A) and (B) may also be contained in different containers within the kit.
[0200] According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, there are provided assemblies, as applied to a keratinous material, comprising (A) at least a first layer of at least one composition, in particular a fixative composition for cosmetic products, comprising (1) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; (2) at least one non-ionic compound Y which is a surfactant having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) greater than or equal to 7, has at least one carbon chain having at least 8 carbon atoms, and has at least one (poly)glycerolated chain and / or one polyoxyalkylenated chain and (3) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of a precipitate of compound X and compound Y in the composition prior to application; and (B) at least one second layer of a color coating composition comprising at least one colorant, wherein the at least one second layer is applied above (wherein the composition of the invention is a primer composition) or below (wherein the composition of the invention is a fixer composition) the at least one first layer. Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one gelling agent. Further preferably, the composition is a gel composition and / or has a pH of less than 7.
[0201] Unless otherwise stated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical parameters provided in the following description and the appended claims are approximations which may vary depending on the desired properties sought to be achieved by the present invention.
[0202] Although the numerical ranges and parameters defining the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values provided in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting its scope accordingly. Percentages are provided on a weight basis. Examples Example I - Sample Formulations Ingredient Preferred Range Specific Range Polyphenol X (e.g., tannic acid) 0.5-15% 2-8% Non-ionic Compound Y 0.5-15% 2-8% Monoalcohol 25-65% 25-45% Water 10-65% 20-55% Others (preservative, filler, antioxidant, chelating agent, etc.) 0-10% 0-5% Example II - Preparation of the composition
[0204] Compositions falling within the preferred ranges for the ingredients in Example I were prepared.
[0205] [Tables 1] HLB Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 WATER 28.3 0.0 23.6 28.3 ETHANOL 66.0 94.3 70.7 66.0 TANNIC ACID 2 2 2 2 AMPS THICKENER 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 SILYLATED SILICA 1 1 1 1 PG-6 DICAPRATE 10 2 0 0 0 PG-3 DII- SOSTEARATE 5.5 0 2 0 0 PEG-10 OLIVE GLYCERIDES 13 0 0 2 0 POLYSORBATE 80 15 0 0 0 2 TOTAL 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
[0206] Comparative examples
[0207] [Tables2] HL B Example of the invention on 1 Example of the invention on 2 Example of the invention on 3 Example of the invention on 4 Example of the invention on 5 Example of the invention on 6 Example of the invention on 7 EAU 51.9 47.1 42.4 42.4 51.9 44.1 42.3 ÉTHANOL 42.4 47.2 51.9 51.9 42.4 47.2 36.0 TANNIQUE ACID 2 2 2 2 2 5 10 ÉPAISSISS ANT AMPS 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 SILICA SILYLÉE 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 PEG-6 GLYCÉRI DES CA-PRYLIQU ES / CAPRI QUES 12,5 2 0 0 0 0 0 10 PEG-7 GLYCÉRI DES CA-PRYLIQU ES / CAPRI QUES 12 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 PEG-7 COCOATE DE GLYCÉRY LE 12 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 PG-2 OLÉATE 7 0 0 0 2 0 0 0 PG-6 CAPRYLA TE 14 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 PG-4 CAPRATE 15 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 TOTAL 100 100 100 100 100 100 100
[0208] Examples of the invention Example III - Protocoles d'essai A. Essai d'application
[0209] A cosmetic product (e.g., foundation) is applied to a keratinous material (e.g., skin) in a controlled amount (e.g., 0.020 grams) in a controlled area (e.g., 3 cm x 3 cm square). Wait 5 to 15 minutes until the solution has dried. Apply a composition (fixer) in a controlled amount (e.g., 0.020 grams) on top of the applied cosmetic composition, and allow it to dry. The quality / impairment of the makeup (e.g., foundation) is visually assessed before and after application of the composition (fixer).
[0210] B. Transfer test
[0211] A cotton ball or pad is used to rub over the area a predetermined number of times (e.g., 5 times) to evaluate the transfer resistance of the cosmetic composition to the cotton ball or pad. Transfer resistance is evaluated on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1 = significant transfer of the cosmetic composition to the cotton ball or pad; 3 = minimal transfer of the cosmetic composition to the cotton ball or pad; and 5 = no transfer of the cosmetic composition to the cotton ball or pad. Transfer resistance is evaluated by determining the difference in the cosmetic composition transferred to the cotton ball or pad, with or without the fixing composition applied. Example IV - Test
[0212] For the comparative examples, higher levels of C2-C5 monoalcohol were required to inhibit precipitate formation. As a result, the homogeneity of the composition was affected, resulting in unacceptable alteration / change of the previously applied foundation to which the comparative compositions had been applied. In contrast to the comparative compositions, the compositions of the invention inhibited precipitate formation in a formulation with a lower alcohol level and resulted in better makeup characteristics when applied to a previously applied foundation.
[0213] The results of the transfer resistance test of the prepared compositions are set out below:
[0214] Foundation (control): level 1, transfer worst
[0215] Comparative example 1: level 4, with change of makeup
[0216] Comparative example 2: impossible test, see rushed
[0217] Comparative example 3: level 3, with change of makeup
[0218] Comparative example 4: level 3, with change of makeup
[0219] Example of invention 1: level 4
[0220] Example of invention 2: level 3
[0221] Example of invention 3: level 3
[0222] Example of invention 4: level 4
[0223] Example of invention 5: level 4
[0224] Example of invention 6: level 4
[0225] Example of invention 7: level 5, lowest transfer
Claims
Claims
1. A composition comprising (a) from 2% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; (b) at least one nonionic (poly)glycerolated and / or polyoxyalkylenated compound Y; (c) a solvent system comprising (i) water in an amount of at least about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition; and (ii) at least one C2-C5 monohydric alcohol in an amount effective to inhibit the formation of a precipitate of compound X and compound Y in the composition before application ranging from 30 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (d) at least one chelating agent; and (e) at least one ascorbic acid compound.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in the form of a gelled composition.
3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises at least one gelling agent which is an amphiphilic polymer.
4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the at least one polyphenolic compound X is tannic acid.
5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the at least one C2-C5 monoalcohol is ethanol.
6. A composition according to claims 1 to 5, wherein the at least one ascorbic acid compound is ascorbyl glucoside.
7. A composition according to claims 1 to 5, wherein the at least one ascorbic acid compound is ascorbic acid.
8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the pH is less than 7.
9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition is substantially free of coloring agents.
10. A method of making up keratinous materials comprising applying a colored layer composition to the keratinous material to form an applied composition, and applying the composition of any preceding claim on top of the applied composition.