Makeup process based on a polyphenol and at least two polyglycerol compounds; compositions for carrying out the process

Abstract

Title: Makeup process based on a polyphenol and at least two polyglycerol compounds, compositions for carrying out the process. The invention relates to a makeup and / or skincare and / or lip care process, preferably for the lips, more particularly for makeup, consisting of applying to the skin and / or lips a coating agent formed in situ or previously by hydrogen bonding of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, at least one of them being selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol units. It also relates to a composition (C) comprising at least one coating agent previously formed by hydrogen bonding of at least one polyphenol X with at least two compounds Y as described above.Another object of the invention relates to a composition (D) comprising, at least one polyphenol X and at least two compounds Y as described above and at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Description

Title of the invention: Makeup process based on a polyphenol and at least two polyglycerol compounds; compositions for carrying out the process

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for applying makeup and / or skincare to human keratinous materials such as skin and / or lips, in which a coating agent formed by hydrogen bonding of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, at least one of them being selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol units, is used. It also relates to compositions enabling the implementation of such a method.

[0002] Today, in the skincare and / or lip makeup market, many products claim to last all day, resisting external factors such as water, sebum, food, mechanical friction, etc. These "long-lasting" lip or face products, for home use, are primarily based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents, most often volatile oils. For example, some compositions include a silicone resin as a coating agent, such as trimethylsiloxysilicate resin (INCI name) or polypropylsilses-quioxane (INCI name), or silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymer (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer - INCI name).

[0003] For some years now, consumers have been increasingly demanding about the composition of their cosmetic products and are particularly looking to use products containing an increasing amount of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients whose environmental impact is minimized and / or ingredients that are compatible with many packaging.

[0004] The difficulty remains, however, to reconcile these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed with the products they already use.

[0005] The present invention aims to provide compositions that offer excellent hold of the expected cosmetic effects, particularly the color of skin makeup and lips, and that are resistant to mechanical friction, meals, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, and even cleaning products, especially makeup removers, such as certain micellar waters and makeup wipes. quillantes, for example.

[0006] Furthermore, the present invention aims to provide compositions that bring about lasting cosmetic effects, particularly makeup color, combined with an acceptable level of comfort.

[0007] These objectives and others are achieved by the present invention which relates to a method of makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, preferably lip care, more particularly makeup, consisting of applying to the skin and / or lips a coating agent formed in situ or previously by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol motifs, at least one of them being chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol motifs.

[0008] It also relates to a composition (called composition (C)) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coating agent previously formed by hydrogen bond interaction of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol motifs, at least one of the compounds Y being selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol motifs.

[0009] Another object of the present invention relates to a composition (called composition (D)) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least two compounds Y selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, at least one of the compounds Y being selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol units and c) at least one mono-alcohol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and more particularly ethanol, isopropanol.

[0010] Another object of the invention is a cosmetic makeup and / or skincare kit, comprising at least: a first composition (A) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X as defined above; and b) a second composition (B) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds Y selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol motifs, at least one of the compounds Y being selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol motifs; said compositions (A) and (B) being packaged separately.

[0011] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent at reading the description and the examples that follow

[0012] In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin refers to the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), of the body, of the hands.

[0013] The makeup and / or skincare and / or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium that is compatible with the skin and / or lips, has a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness) likely to deter the consumer from using the composition.

[0014] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrogen bond interaction" means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom from one of the two reactants and an electronegative heteroatom from the other reactant, such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, or fluorine. In the context of this invention, the hydrogen bond(s) are formed between the hydroxyl (OH) group(s) of the reactive phenol group(s) of polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of compounds Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bonding with polyphenol X.

[0015] By "ambient temperature", we mean 25°C.

[0016] By “atmospheric pressure”, we mean 760 mm of Hg or 1.013.105 Pascals.

[0017] POLYPHENOL X

[0018] The polyphenols X usable according to the present invention comprise in their structure at least two different phenol groups.

[0019] By “polyphenol” is meant any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene compounds, in free or condensed form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.

[0020] By "different phenol groups" is meant chemically different phenol groups.

[0021] The polyphenols X usable according to the invention may be synthetic or natural. They may be in isolated form or contained in a mixture, in particular contained in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two phenolic groups differently substituted on the aromatic ring.

[0022] The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.

[0023] Examples of flavonoids include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin, or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins, or thearubigins (or thearubrins); and dihydroflavonols such as astilbin and dihydroquercetin. (taxifoline), or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein, or genistein; neoflavonoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.

[0024] Among the natural polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention, lignins can also be mentioned.

[0025] Examples of non-flavonoids include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidine; and mixtures thereof.

[0026] As polyphenols X usable according to the invention, we can also mention chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted by phenols.

[0027] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol will be selected from catechic tannins such as gallotannins selected from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescalin, castaline, casuarictin, castanopsins, excoecarinins, grandinin, gradin, roburines, pterocarine, telligranine, tellimane sanguiine, potentillin, pedunculin, geraniin, che-bulagic acid, sprendisinic acid, ascorgeranine, stachyurin, casuarinin, casuarinin, punicacortein, coriarin, cameliatannine, isodes, dehydrogenyl, dehydroyl galloyl, l punicalagine, les rhoipteleanines.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract of INCI name GREEN TEA EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 45% epigallocatechin by weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name DERMOFEEL PHENON 90 MC® sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name TEA POLYPHENOLS GREEN TEA EXTRACT® by Tayo Green Power.

[0029] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular a maritime pine bark extract of INCI name PINUS PINASTER BARK / BUD EXTRACT, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name PYCNOGENOL® sold by the company BIOLANDES AROMES.

[0030] Tannic acid will be used more specifically as polyphenol X. This compound is notably marketed under the name Brewtan F by the company AJINOMOTO OMNICHEM Nv.

[0031] COMPOUNDS Y

[0032] The compounds Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X are therefore chosen from at least two compounds Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol motifs, at least one of the compounds Y being chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol motifs.

[0033] According to a particular mode, the compounds Y, in the middle of the composition, do not have an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are non-ionic.

[0034] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises compounds Y whose molar mass is greater than 200 g / mol, or even greater than 350 g / mol.

[0035] More particularly, compounds Y are selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s) or carboxylic acid polymer(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and vegetable oil derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, compounds Y are selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or vegetable oil derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Carboxylic acids can include 1 to 3 carboxylic groups, and preferably are monocarboxylic acids. Polyglycerol compounds are more specifically mono-, di-, or tri-esters. As examples of compounds Y, the following compounds can be cited, designated by their INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 IsostearatCi Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate,, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate / Stearate, Poly-glyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate^ Poly-glyceryl-5 Laurate, Poylglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 trilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, esters apricot kernel oil (Apricot Kernel Oil) polyglycerols comprising 3 to 10 glycerol motifs, as well as their mixtures.

[0037] Preferably at least one of the compounds Y is Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate.

[0038] COMPOSITION (A) COMPRISING POLYPHENOL(S) X

[0039] More specifically, composition (A) has a polyphenol(s) X content of at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (A). Preferably the polyphenol(s) X content is between 2 and 50% by weight, preferably between 5 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0040] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) comprises water. This could be, for example, demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as Vittel, Lucas, or La Roche-Posay water and / or thermal water. More specifically, the water content is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35% to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0041] Composition (A) may also include at least one mono-alcohol in C2-C8, preferably in C2-C5. Examples include ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, and even more preferably ethanol.

[0042] Preferably, the content of mono alcohol in C2-C8, preferably in C2-C5, and more particularly in ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0043] The pH of composition (A) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0044] The composition (A) may optionally include other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C) such as polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0045] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) is anhydrous.

[0046] The term "anhydrous composition" means any composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 2% by weight, or even less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of water. Preferably, water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small quantities, or even in trace amounts, in the various products used.

[0047] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) comprises an oily phase.

[0048] The term "oily phase" means a liquid phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising at least one fatty substance, other than compounds Y, such as oils, waxes, pastes and possibly all organic solvents and ingredients that are soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0049] Oils

[0050] The oil or oils may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] By "oil" is meant a liquid fat at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0052] For the purposes of the present invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0053] The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic groups. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

[0054] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0055] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having, in particular, a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0056] Volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0057] Among volatile hydrocarbon oils, special mention may be made of those selected from hydrocarbon-type hydrocarbon oils (i.e., nonpolar hydrocarbon oils, composed solely of carbon and hydrogen) as well as ester-type oils. In particular, they may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and notably: - C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and their mixtures, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example in Cn-Ci5, alone or in mixtures, - branched esters in C8-Ci6, for example isohexyl neopentanoate, - their mixtures.

[0058] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell by the company SHELL, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457.

[0059] Volatile silicone oils

[0060] Among volatile silicone oils, one can mention among others linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having 3 to 7 silicon atoms; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0061] Examples of such oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethysiloxanes such as those marketed under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0062] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0063] The term "polar hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic, and preferably hydroxyl, ester, and ether groups.

[0064] By way of example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil usable in the invention, we may cite: - triglycerides made up of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils may include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pomegranate oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil; shea oil; or even caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with at least such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of po- lyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and diols such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Examples include the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®; - linear fatty acid esters and polyesters with a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 80 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetrai-sostearate; - aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate; - dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid esters and polyesters, such as dimer diol and fatty acid esters and dimer diol and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, for example with INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in US application 2004-175338, the contents of which are incorporated into this application by reference; - fatty alcohols with 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being either identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; - and their mixtures.

[0065] Non-volatile, non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0066] The oil can also be chosen from non-volatile, linear or branched, non-polar hydrocarbon oils, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably saturated.

[0067] Non-volatile, linear or branched, non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0068] Said nonpolar, linear or branched oils may be of mineral or synthetic origin, such as, for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly in Ci5-C2s, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name), such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - Polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non-volatile compounds of the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), - and their mixtures.

[0069] Non-volatile silicone oils

[0070] The non-volatile oil may also be selected from phenylated or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils. More specifically, said silicone oils are devoid of (poly)alkoxy groups such as (poly)ethoxy or (poly)propoxy groups, or of (poly)glycerol groups.

[0071] For the purposes of this invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0072] More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, is selected from dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl di-methicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] These products are marketed, in particular, under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone products such as KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS, or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A, marketed by Shin Etsu; and Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 products marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. The values ​​in parentheses represent viscosities at 25°C (ASTM D-445 standard).

[0074] When composition (A) is anhydrous, preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, more preferably chosen from among the C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin such as isodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, and more particularly isododecane.

[0075] Waxes

[0076] The composition may optionally include at least one wax.

[0077] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C.

[0078] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting temperature of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.

[0079] The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of wax of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetically sealed aluminum capsule. The sample is subjected to an initial heating from -20°C to 120°C at a rate of 10°C / minute, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a rate of 10°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from -20°C to 120°C at a rate of 5°C / minute. During this second heating, the melting point of the solid fat is measured. This point corresponds to the peak of the most endothermic point on the observed melting curve, representing the variation in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0080] Waxes can be hydrocarbon, silicone, and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0081] More particularly, the waxes are chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably esters, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0082] Among nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes (i.e., comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure), we can mention in particular polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes in particular of polyethylene, as well as their mixtures.

[0083] Among polar hydrocarbon waxes (therefore comprising carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms) suitable waxes advantageously comprising at least one alcohol, ester, and / or ether group.

[0084] In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as wax can be used as wax beeswax, lanolin wax; sunflower wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0085] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32. Among these, we can mention in particular hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S®" by the company HETERENE, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrabehenate) sold under the name HEST 2T-4B® by the company HETERENE.

[0086] Also suitable are waxes of the type of C2O-C4O alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, alone or in mixtures, or a C2O-C4O alkyl stearate. Such waxes are notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®”, “Kester Wax K 80 P®”, or “KESTER WAX K82H” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0087] As examples of alcohol wax, we can mention mixtures of linear, saturated alcohols, in C30-C50 such as, for example, Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technology, stearic alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0088] Pasty compounds

[0089] For the purposes of this invention, "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 20°C. Thus, a pasty compound may have a melting point below 20°C. Furthermore, the pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. The melting point of the pasty fat is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.

[0090] In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows: A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at temperature ambient on the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat body. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A fat is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline form. A fat is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat is the amount of energy required to change the fat from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat is equal to the energy emitted under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0091] Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compound(s) are chosen from:

[0092] - vegetable butters, such as mango butter, such as that which marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax such, for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,

[0093] - partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as soybean oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated isomerized trans jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,

[0094] - hydrogenated castor oil esters and C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular of isostearic acid such as the compound with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL,

[0095] - fatty acid triglycerides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly mono- or poly-hydroxylated, preferably C12-C18, possibly hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as, for example, saturated fatty acid glycerides C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),

[0096] - polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid in C6-C10 and ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20, such as in particular the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and with the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2. This type of compound is notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.

[0097] - polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol, such as: * diol dimer esters (e.g. dilinoleic alcohol) and dilinoleic acid whose hydroxylated groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid esters, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).

[0098] Preferably, if the composition includes them, the pasty hydrocarbon compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds with INCI name Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and mixtures thereof.

[0099] When composition (A) is anhydrous, the concentration in the oil phase of said composition is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, and more particularly varies from 20 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

[0100] Preferably, if composition (A) includes an oil phase, this includes at least one polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil. Preferably, it does not contain any silicone oil, whether volatile or non-volatile.

[0101] COMPOSITION (B) COMPRISING THE COMPOUNDS Y

[0102] Preferably, the content of compounds Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 75% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0103] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) comprising the compound(s) Y comprises at least water. This may be, for example, demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche-Posay water and / or thermal water.

[0104] The quantity of water is preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0105] Composition (B) may also include at least one mono-alcohol in C2-C8, preferably in C2-C5. Examples include ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, preferably ethanol.

[0106] Preferably, the content of mono alcohol in C2-C8, preferably in C2-C5, and more particularly in ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

[0107] The pH of composition (B) is preferably less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0108] Composition (B) may optionally include other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C) such as polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0109] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) is anhydrous.

[0110] According to another embodiment, the composition (B) may comprise at least an oily phase as defined previously.

[0111] When composition (B) is anhydrous, preferably the oily phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, more preferably chosen from among the C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isodecane, isohexadecane, isododecane and more particularly isododecane.

[0112] When composition (B) is anhydrous, the concentration in the oil phase of the composition of the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more particularly greater than 10% by weight, and more particularly varies from 20 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).

[0113] Preferably, if composition (B) includes an oily phase, this includes at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil. Preferably, it does not contain any silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile.

[0114] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose compositions (A) and (B) so that they are compatible and can be mixed and the quantities enabling the formation in the resulting mixture of a coating agent by interaction by hydrogen bonds of polyphenol X with compounds Y as defined.

[0115] COMPOSITION (C)

[0116] The present invention also relates to a composition (C) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one coating agent previously formed by hydrogen bonding interaction of at least one polyphenol X with at least two compounds Y, as defined above.

[0117] Pre-formed coating agent

[0118] The coating agent present in the compositions of the invention is obtained by reacting by hydrogen bond interaction, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol motifs, at least one of the compounds Y being selected from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol motifs; these compounds being described previously.

[0119] Advantageously, the content of pre-formed coating agent varies from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 40% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0120] Process for preparing the coating agent

[0121] The reaction medium may be aqueous, hydrophilic, or anhydrous. Ideally, the solvent in which the coating agent is prepared is easily removed, particularly by evaporation. Thus, the coating agent can advantageously be synthesized in water or in a volatile oil such as those mentioned above, preferably isododecane.

[0122] Polyphenol X and compounds Y are preferably introduced into the reaction medium with a ratio of the mass of polyphenol X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, varying between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0123] The order of introduction is not important. The contact time can be very short or it can be left to incubate under shaking (a few hours).

[0124] The precipitate obtained corresponding to the coating agent is recovered either by filtration of the solvent or by centrifugation or by evaporation of the solvent.

[0125] The precipitate is then washed several times to remove the initial reagents which were not involved in the formation of the precipitate. The washing solvent is specifically chosen from among the solvents of polyphenol X and / or associated compounds Y. Ideally, the washing solvent is water.

[0126] The number of washes can be determined by measuring the polyphenol X recovered in the wash water. When the level is low, it can be considered that the excess reagents have been removed. The amount of solvent present in the precipitate is more specifically less than 40% by weight relative to the weight of the precipitate, or even less than 35% by weight relative to the weight of the precipitate.

[0127] Then the precipitate can be dried, in particular in open air, under a heated atmosphere, under vacuum or lyophilized.

[0128] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (C) comprises at least water. This may include, in particular, demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSA Y water and / or thermal water.

[0129] Depending on the nature of the aqueous composition (C), the quantity of water is preferably greater than 30% by weight, or even greater than 40% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 30 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0130] The composition comprises at least one colouring material which will be described later.

[0131] According to another particular mode, the composition (C) may comprise at least one oily phase as defined above.

[0132] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (C) is anhydrous.

[0133] According to another particular mode, the composition (C) can be in a multiphase form, for example in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (continuous aqueous phase in which an oily phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture), in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (continuous oily phase in which an aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous mixture).

[0134] When composition (C) contains water, the pH of the aqueous phase is preferably less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0135] When composition (C) includes an oily phase, this includes at least one oil

[0136] When the composition (C) includes an oily phase, the concentration in the oily phase is preferably greater than 10% by weight, or even greater than 20% by weight, and more preferably varies from 30 to 75% relative to the total weight of the composition (C).

[0137] Preferably, if composition (C) includes an oil phase, this includes at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil. Preferably, it does not contain any silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile.

[0138] When composition (C) is an emulsion, it may comprise one or more emulsifying surfactants.

[0139] For the purposes of the present invention, "emulsifying surfactant" means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, that is to say, having two parts of different polarity. Generally, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophile-Lipophilic Balance) value, where HLB is the ratio of the hydrophilic to the lipophilic part of the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB typically ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. The HLB is greater than 8 for the preparation of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions.The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0140] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, when composition (C) is anhydrous, the oily phase of composition (C) comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and particularly isododecane.

[0141] The quantity of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) may preferably range from 20% to 80% by weight, and even more preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (C).

[0142] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in order to improve the dispersibility of the coating agent homogeneously in the composition (C), a thickening system (polymers, waxes or paste-like substances), a suspending agent or an emulsifying system, in particular of the lamellar phase type, can be added.

[0143] COMPOSITION (D)

[0144] Another object of the invention relates to a composition (D) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one polyphenol X as defined above, b) at least two compounds Y as defined above, and c) at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more particularly comprising from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, even more preferably ethanol.

[0145] In this composition, the coating agent is in a latent state and only fully appears in situ, that is, once composition (D) has been applied to the skin and / or lips. In other words, in composition (D), prior to its application, the conditions (ingredients, concentrations) are such that they do not favor the interaction of polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with each other. Preferably, these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before its application.

[0146] Preferably, the polyphenol X content in composition (D) is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, and even more particularly between 3 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).

[0147] Preferably, the content of compounds Y in composition (D) represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 2 to 40% and even more preferably from 3 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0148] More particularly, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0149] Advantageously, the content of the C2-C8 mono-alcohol, more particularly the C2-C5 mono-alcohol, especially ethanol, is such that compounds X and Y do not react in composition (D) prior to its application. This mono-alcohol can thus be considered a hydrogen bond inhibitor. A "hydrogen bond inhibitor" is defined as any compound capable of preventing the interaction by hydrogen bonds between polyphenol X and compounds Y and / or of dissociating the complex formed by this interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonds. More particularly, the content of the C2-C8 mono-alcohol is at least 25% by weight, in particular between 25 and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30 and 85% by weight, and even more particularly between 35 and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).

[0150] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition (D) comprises water. Here again, it may be demineralized water, or floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSA Y water and / or thermal water.

[0151] More particularly, composition (D) comprises a water content of 10% or less by weight, more particularly 5% or less by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the water content of composition (D) is between 0 and 5% by weight, inclusive, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0152] If the composition includes water, then the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageous euch less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

[0153] The composition may optionally include other ingredients or solvents soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C) such as polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0154] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (D) comprises an oily phase.

[0155] Reference may be made to the definition of the oily phase detailed earlier in the description of the composition (A).

[0156] More particularly, when composition (D) includes it, the oil phase content is between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0157] According to a first variant of the invention, if the oily phase is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

[0158] Preferably, according to this variant, the oil or oils are chosen from among polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oils. Preferably, the non-volatile oil is not chosen from among silicone non-volatile oils.

[0159] According to another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon. More particularly, the volatile oil content, preferably hydrocarbon, is less than or equal to 20% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8% by weight, and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, composition (D) does not comprise any silicone volatile oil.

[0160] Composition (D) is advantageously in liquid form.

[0161] Composition (D) may also include at least one wax. Reference may be made to the list given previously in the description of composition (A). The wax content, if composition (D) includes any, generally varies from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0162] Composition (D) may optionally contain at least one paste-like compound, as described previously in the description of composition (A). If composition (D) contains such a compound, the content of the paste-like compound(s) is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] COLOURING MATTER

[0164] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) comprises at least one coloring material, in particular chosen from synthetic, natural or naturally derived coloring materials.

[0165] The colouring material may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0166] Pigments

[0167] “Pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0168] According to a first particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0169] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, and ZrO2 in mixtures with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.

[0170] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0171] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0172] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, specifically the Malvem MasterSizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0173] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

[0174] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, more particularly titanium dioxide and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0175] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, nacres can also be mentioned.

[0176] By “mother-of-pearl”, one must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0177] The nacres can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

[0178] We can also cite, as an example of nacres, natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0179] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0180] Among the pigments usable according to the invention, one can also mention those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional hue effect, that is to say, unified and stabilized such as that produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any color variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0181] For example, this material can be chosen from metallic-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to produce the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.

[0182] According to a particular mode, the composition ((A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0183] According to another particular mode, the composition (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated by at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0184] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for a oily phase which can then carry them.

[0185] The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0186] For the purposes of the invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally means the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0187] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0188] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0189] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

[0190] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0191] The coating can be achieved for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant to the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing under agitation of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or skincare composition.

[0192] The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

[0193] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0194] When the pigment includes a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0195] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-siliconized surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0196] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0197] According to another particular mode, the coloring matter is an organic pigment, syn- Thematic, natural or of natural origin.

[0198] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0199] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolic compounds as described in French patent FR 2 679 771.

[0200] The pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0201] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized colorants adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0202] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0203] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0204] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&CRed7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0205] The pigment(s) are preferably present in composition ((A), (B), (C) and / or (D) at levels of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the colorant content is less than 50% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition concerned (A), (B), (C) and / or (D).

[0206] Water-soluble or fat-soluble colorants

[0207] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring matter is a water-soluble dye or a fat-soluble dye.

[0208] For the purposes of this invention, "water-soluble colouring material" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of colouring.

[0209] For the purposes of this invention, "liposoluble colouring material" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of colouring.

[0210] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 may be cited.

[0211] Among the natural water-soluble colorants, anthocyanins may be mentioned.

[0212] As suitable fat-soluble colorants for the invention, fat-soluble colorants such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, and Sudan brown may be mentioned.

[0213] By way of illustration, natural fat-soluble colorants, one can particularly mention carotenes such as [3-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

[0214] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s) are preferably present in composition ((A), (B), (C) and / or (D) at levels of less than 4% by weight, or even in less than 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A), (B), (C) or (D).

[0215] COSMETIC ADDITIVES

[0216] The compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) of the invention may contain additives commonly used in cosmetics. These may include, in particular, antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, gelling or thickening agents, surfactants, cosmetic actives such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] Antioxidants

[0218] In particular, antioxidants are used to prevent the oxidation of polyphenol X. These can be chosen from ascorbic acid and its derivatives, erythorbic acid, citric acid, sulfites and metabisulfite, and thiol-type reducing agents, especially cysteine. Carotenes and lycopenes, which also act as fat-soluble colorants, can also be mentioned.

[0219] These additives may be present in compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0% of the total weight of the composition.

[0220] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0221] Compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) can be manufactured by known processes generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0222] The compositions (A), (B), (C) and / or (D) used according to the invention may be skincare, makeup, or hybrid products (with a skincare and makeup valence) of keratinous materials such as skin, eye contour, lips.

[0223] MAKE-UP AND / OR SKINCARE PROCESSES

[0224] From compositions (A) and (B)

[0225] According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic method for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, preferably lip care, consisting of applying successively, indifferent to the order of application, to the skin and / or lips: a) at least one composition (A) as defined above; and b) at least one composition (B) as defined above; composition (A) and / or composition (B) advantageously containing at least one coloring matter.

[0226] More specifically, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compound Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0227] Variant 1

[0228] According to a first variant, the following are applied successively to the skin and / or lips: a) a first layer with a makeup composition (A) (base coat) as defined above comprising at least one colouring material then b) on the skin and / or lips thus treated, a second layer of post-treatment (top coat) with a composition (B) as defined previously.

[0229] According to a particular mode, said makeup composition (A) is aqueous and post-treatment composition (B) is aqueous.

[0230] According to another particular mode, said makeup composition (A) is aqueous and post-treatment composition (B) is anhydrous.

[0231] According to another particular mode, said makeup composition (A) is anhydrous and post-treatment composition (B) is aqueous.

[0232] According to another particular mode, said makeup composition (A) is anhydrous and post-treatment composition (B) is anhydrous.

[0233] Variant 2

[0234] According to a second variant, the product is applied successively to the skin and / or the lips: a) a first layer (base coat) with a makeup composition (B) as defined above comprising at least one colorant, then b) on the skin and / or lips thus treated, a second layer of post-treatment (top coat) with a post-treatment composition (A) as defined previously.

[0235] According to a particular mode, said makeup composition (B) is aqueous and the post-treatment composition (A) is aqueous.

[0236] According to another particular mode, said makeup composition (B) is aqueous and post-treatment composition (A) is anhydrous.

[0237] According to another particular mode, said makeup composition (B) is anhydrous and post-treatment composition (A) is aqueous.

[0238] According to another particular mode, said makeup composition (B) is anhydrous and post-treatment composition (A) is anhydrous.

[0239] Variant 3

[0240] According to a third variant, the following are applied successively to the skin and / or the lips: a) a first pretreatment layer (base coat) with a composition (A) as defined previously, then b) on the skin and / or lips thus treated, a second layer of makeup (top coat) with a composition (B) as defined above comprising at a compound Y and at least one coloring agent.

[0241] According to a particular mode, said pretreatment composition (A) is aqueous and makeup composition (B) is aqueous.

[0242] According to another particular mode, said pretreatment composition (A) is aqueous and the makeup composition (B) is anhydrous.

[0243] According to another particular mode, said pretreatment composition (A) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (B) is aqueous.

[0244] According to another particular mode, said pretreatment composition (A) is anhydrous and makeup composition (B) is anhydrous.

[0245] Variant 4

[0246] According to a fourth variant, the following is applied successively to the skin and / or lips: a) a first pretreatment layer (base coat) with a composition (B) as defined previously, then b) on the skin and / or lips thus treated, a second layer of makeup (top coat) with a composition (A) as defined above comprising at least one colouring material.

[0247] According to a particular mode, said pretreatment composition (B) is aqueous and the makeup composition (A) is aqueous.

[0248] According to another particular mode, said pretreatment composition (B) is aqueous and the makeup composition (A) is anhydrous.

[0249] According to another particular mode, said pretreatment composition (B) is anhydrous and the makeup composition (A) is aqueous.

[0250] According to another particular mode, said pretreatment composition (B) is anhydrous and makeup composition (A) is anhydrous.

[0251] Among the variants 1 to 4 defined above, variants 1 and 2 will preferably be used, in which a first layer of makeup is applied with composition (A) or composition (B) containing the said coloring material(s).

[0252] Preferably, one or more pigments will be used as colouring material when the makeup composition (A) and / or composition (B) includes an anhydrous support comprising an oily phase.

[0253] According to a particularly preferred method, the following is applied successively to the skin and / or lips: a) a first layer of makeup (base coat) with a composition (B) preferably anhydrous, as defined above comprising at least one colouring material, preferably a pigment, then b) on the skin and / or lips thus coloured, a second layer of post-treatment (top coat) with an aqueous composition (A) as defined previously.

[0254] From composition (C) or composition (D)

[0255] Another cosmetic method for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, preferably the lips, according to the invention, consists of applying to the skin and / or lips, at least one composition (C) as defined above.

[0256] Composition (C) may advantageously comprise at least one colouring material.

[0257] Another cosmetic method for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, preferably lip care, according to the invention, consists of applying to the skin and / or lips, at least one composition (D) as defined above.

[0258] Composition (D) may advantageously comprise at least one colouring material.

[0259] Involving a composition (M)

[0260] With compositions (A) and (B)

[0261] According to another object, the present invention relates to a method of applying makeup and / or skin and / or lip care, consisting of successively applying: a) a layer formed by application to the skin and / or lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) as a mixture prepared extemporaneously at the time of use; or iii) successively, in any order: a)l) of at least one composition (A) as defined above; and a)2) of at least one composition (B) as defined above; b) on the skin and / or lips thus treated, a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil.

[0262] According to another particular form, said makeup and / or skin and / or lip care process consists of successively applying: a) a first layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil and at least one colorant; and b) on the first colored layer, a second layer formed by application to the skin and / or lips, i) simultaneously; or ii) as a mixture prepared extemporaneously at the time of use; or iii) successively, in any order: b)l) of at least one composition (A) as defined above; and b)2) of at least one composition (B) as defined above.

[0263] The application of compositions (A) and (B) on the one hand, and composition (M) on the other, regardless of the order of application, is advantageously carried out without mixing. More specifically, it is preferable that the composition of the second step be applied once that of the first step has at least partially dried. As a guideline, the second step is carried out a few minutes after the first.

[0264] With composition fC) or composition fD)

[0265] Another method of applying makeup to the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, consists of applying successively: (a) a layer consisting of at least one composition (C) or one composition (D) as defined above; the applied composition (C) or composition (D) comprising at least one colorant, and b) a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil.

[0266] Another method of applying makeup to the skin and / or lips according to the invention consists of successively applying: a) a layer consisting of at least one composition (M) comprising at least one oil and at least one colorant; and b) on the first coloured layer, a second layer consisting of at least one composition (C) or one composition (D) as defined above.

[0267] The application of compositions (C) or (D) on the one hand and composition (M) on the other hand, regardless of the order of application, is advantageously carried out without mixing. More specifically, it is preferable that the composition of the second step be applied once that of the first step has at least partially dried. As a guideline, the second step is carried out a few minutes after the first.

[0268] Composition (M)

[0269] Composition (M) comprises at least one oil. Reference may be made to the description of the oils indicated above.

[0270] The composition (M) may also possibly include at least one colouring material selected from those defined above.

[0271] The composition (M) may advantageously comprise at least one silicone or non-siliconized film-forming polymer, or a mixture.

[0272] Examples of silicone film-forming polymers include silicone resins, such as those with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and mixtures thereof. Also suitable are polymers with the following INCI names: acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, acrylates / dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0273] The film-forming polymer can also be chosen from ethylcellulose, or sequenced ethylenic copolymers such as acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobomyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name).

[0274] If the composition (M) includes it, the content of film-forming polymer(s) varies advantageously between 0.1 and 50% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M).

[0275] Composition (M) may also contain one or more ingredients commonly used in this type of product such as paste-like compounds, in particular hydro carbon compounds such as vegetable butters (e.g. shea butter), ester compounds derived from dimerdiol dimerdilinoleate (e.g. bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate) or bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; waxes, including hydrocarbon, polar (e.g. ester type) or non-polar (e.g. polyethylene, microcrystalline wax...); organic solvents; thickeners; fillers, colorless or white, lamellar, spherical or in the form of fibers; cosmetic actives such as vitamins, solar UV filters, moisturizing agents, antioxidants.

[0276] Composition (M) may or may not include water.

[0277] Composition (M) may be a product, in particular makeup and / or skincare the skin, face, cheeks, eye contour. If these compositions (M) are intended for makeup, they then contain at least one coloring substance as defined above.

[0278] The compositions (M) for the skin are preferably gels, creams, milks or lotions. They may be aqueous dispersions, anhydrous oily compositions or multiphase compositions such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, bi- or triphasic compositions.

[0279] Compositions (M) for the skin can also be in solid and hot-poured form.

[0280] Compositions (M) for the skin, in particular makeup, may also be eyeshadows or blush, and may be presented more particularly in the form of loose or compact powder.

[0281] By “compact powder” is meant a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compaction during manufacturing.

[0282] By "free powder" is meant a mass of product which is capable of collapsing under its own weight; such a mass being formed of particles which are mostly isolated and mobile relative to each other.

[0283] Makeup compositions (M) in the form of loose or compact powder, preferably anhydrous, generally comprise at least one powder phase, in a content in particular greater than or equal to 50% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, comprising at least one filler which may represent a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0284] Composition (M) may be a product intended to be applied to the lips, in particular a lipstick, a lip gloss or a lip balm.

[0285] Lip compositions (M) may be in solid form such as a stick or cup products or in liquid form.

[0286] They can be anhydrous or aqueous, in particular water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions.

[0287] Composition (M) may also be an eyeliner which is preferably an aqueous composition with at least one film-forming polymer, in particular in the form of a particle dispersion (latex).

[0288] PACKAGING AND APPLICATORS

[0289] The compositions (A), (B) (C), (D) and / or (M) according to the invention can each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which includes said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.

[0290] The container may be in any suitable shape. It may, in particular, be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case.

[0291] The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, lid, or seal, in particular of the type having a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, valve, or flap.

[0292] The container may be associated with an applicator, for example in the form of a brush (as described, for example, in French patent FR 2 722 380), or in the form of a deformable or non-deformable element made of foam or elastomer, flocked or not. The applicator may also be free (sponge) or attached to a rod carried by the closure element, as described, for example, in US patent 5 492 426. The applicator may be attached to the container, as described, for example, in French patent FR 2 761 959.

[0293] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

[0294] The closure element can be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is achieved by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fitting, or by clamping. "Snap-fitting" refers in particular to any system involving the passage over a bead or a band of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, and then by the return of said portion to its elastically unconstrained position after passing over the bead or band.

[0295] The container may be made, at least in part, of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene and polyethylene.

[0296] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube-bottle.

[0297] The container may include means for causing or facilitating the distribution of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to be released in response to an over- pressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the container walls.

[0298] The container may be equipped with a wringer located near the opening of the container. Such a wringer allows the applicator and, optionally, the rod to which it may be attached, to be wiped. Such a wringer is described, for example, in French patent FR 2 792 618.

[0299] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0300] The expressions "between... and..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0301] In addition, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

[0302] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

[0303] Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities shown are expressed as mass percentages.

[0304] The following examples are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention. Examples

[0305] Example 1

[0306] The following composition (D) has been prepared:

[0307] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name or chemical name) % weight Tannic acid (Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 15 Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate (SunSoft Q-102H-C - Taiyo Kagaku) ​​5 Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Tegosoft PC 41 - EVONIK Goldschmidt) 5 Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate (SunSoft A-121E-C - Taiyo Kagaku) ​​5 Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 OR - Sensient) 10 Ethanol Qsp 100

[0308] Preparation process At room temperature, mix the tannic acid and alcohol with Rayneri stirring. Then, introduce the polyglycerol compounds once the tannic acid has dissolved. Sprinkle in the Red 7 pigment and leave under agitation for 15 minutes.

[0309] Application and evaluation

[0310] The resulting mixture is not stable over time: it separates, but by simple Manual agitation redisperses the pigments and the formula remains homogeneous for the duration of makeup application.

[0311] When applying lip makeup, the formula is very easy to apply with a plunge applicator, allowing you to obtain a very thin film on the lips, with an intense, homogeneous color.

[0312] The deposit lasts over time and does not transfer (for example, the kiss on the hand test).

[0313] The composition was evaluated in a test of resistance to mechanical and chemical aggressions: dry friction, water and oil.

[0314] Performance evaluation protocol

[0315] Test preparation:

[0316] Support: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (marketed by Soudotique).

[0317] Spread the composition (D) over the entire surface 3 times in succession to obtain a homogeneous deposit. Repeat the operation on two other strips. Allow the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes. Optionally, take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before the application.

[0318] 2, Solicitations:

[0319] Prepare a tissue for each request: Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice in the other direction to form a square.

[0320] Dry resistance:

[0321] Rub once with the handkerchief folded lengthwise one of the three made-up supports; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing makeup from the skin or lips. Observe the condition of the rubbed surface as well as the surface area of ​​the handkerchief used, in particular the remaining color and the transferred color. Optionally take a photo.

[0322] If multiple passes are required, they should be made with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e., after each pass, the tissue is lifted and repositioned at the "beginning" of the strip to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). Optionally, a photograph should be taken between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of procedure can be used to assess the overall resistance of the deposit.

[0323] Water resistance:

[0324] Insert the second made-up support without folding it into a centrifuge tube. Add 10 grams of demineralized water. Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g. Optionally, take a photo of the support after mixing, immediately after the operation. Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for dry resistance. Observe the condition of the rubbed surface as well as the surface area of ​​the handkerchief used, in particular the remaining color and the transferred color. Optionally take a photo.

[0325] The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed previously for dry resistance.

[0326] Oil resistance:

[0327] Implement the same protocol as for water resistance, on the third made-up support, replacing the water with the same quantity of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil - Aarhuskarlshamn).

[0328] Notation:

[0329] For each request, note the result according to the table below:

[0330] [Tables2] Note: Condition of the deposit - Fabric surface in contact with the deposit - Total or partial removal of the deposit on the rubbed area; the substrate surface appears in places. Very intense staining - very significant to total color transfer. Partial removal resulting in a significantly and visibly less intense staining of the deposit. Intense staining - significant color transfer. + Perceptible decrease in the intensity of the deposit's color, but the substrate is not visible. Medium staining - medium color transfer. ++ No substantial change in the deposit's color. Slight staining - little color transfer. +++ No change in the deposit's color. No staining or barely visible staining - little to no color transfer.

[0331] It should be noted that to facilitate the evaluation of the suitability of the deposit, it includes at least one colouring material whose colour is sufficiently intense (for example a red colouring material, such as Red 7 in particular).

[0332] When comparing several compositions, they have the same shade (same quantity and same coloring matter).

[0333] It should be noted that the performance of the deposit, as well as other properties (homogeneity, comfort, etc.) can also be evaluated by a Sensory Panel (group of trained experts enabling a description of technical characteristics - ISO 8586, ISO 11132, ISO 13299 standards).

[0334] Results:

[0335] [Tables3] Dry resistance Water resistance Oil resistance +++ ++ +++

Claims

Claims

1. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, consisting in applying to the skin and / or lips a coating agent formed in situ or previously by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups with at least two compounds Y chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units, at least one of the compounds Y being chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 5 or 6 glycerol units; the method consisting in applying: a) at least one composition (A) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one polyphenol X; and b) at least one composition (B) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds Y as defined; said compositions (A) and (B) being applied to the skin and / or lips, i) simultaneously;or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use; or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application.;

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is chosen from catechol tannins, in particular chosen from gallotannins and ellagitannins.

3. Process according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract, in particular comprising at least 45% by weight of epigallocatechin relative to the weight of said extract.

4. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is a procyanidin or a mixture of procyanidins, in particular an extract of maritime pine bark, in particular comprising at least 65% by weight of procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract.

5. Process according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is tannic acid.

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compounds Y have a molar mass greater than 200 g / mol, more particularly greater than 350 g / mol.

7. A method according to any preceding claim, ca- characterized in that the compounds Y are chosen from esters, preferably non-ionic, of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and of carboxylic acid(s) or of polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, or derivatives of vegetable oils; and mixtures thereof; at least one of the compounds Y being chosen from esters of polyglycerol comprising 5 or 6 glycerol units.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compounds Y are chosen from the following compounds, designated by their INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Poly-glyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dü-sostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate / Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Dii-sostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Poly-glyceryl-5 Laurate, Poylglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Po-lyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, as well as mixtures thereof.

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one of the compounds Y is Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of polyphenol X represents at least 2% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of compounds Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 75% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) comprises water more particularly at a content greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of the composition (A) or (B).

13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or the composition (B) comprises at least one C2-C8 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, more particularly at a content greater than or equal to 25% in weight, or even greater than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 35 to 85% relative to the total weight of composition (A) or (B).

14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (A) and / or (B) comprises at least one oily phase, more particularly at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 20 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A) or (B).

15. Composition (composition (D)) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium, a) at least one polyphenol X as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 5, b) at least two compounds Y as defined according to any one of claims 1, 6 to 9, and c) at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more particularly comprising from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol.

16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the content of polyphenol X is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 3 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).

17. Composition according to any one of claims 15 or 16, characterized in that the content of compounds Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2 and 40% by weight, and even more particularly from 3 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).

18. Composition according to any one of claims 15 to 17, characterized in that the ratio of the mass of polyphenol(s) X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compounds Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

19. Composition according to any one of claims 15 to 18, characterized in that the content of C2-C8 monoalcohol is at least 25% by weight, in particular between 25 and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30 and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35 and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition (D).

20. A composition according to any one of claims 15 to 19, ca- characterized in that the composition comprises at least water, more particularly in a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

21. Composition according to any one of claims 15 to 20, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase, more particularly at a content of between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

22. Composition according to any one of claims 15 to 21, characterized in that the composition comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, more particularly at a content of less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 8% by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, consisting of applying to the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, at least one composition (D) according to any one of claims 15 to 22.

24. Process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, according to any one of claims 1 to 14 and 23, characterized in that the composition (A), (B) and / or (D) comprises at least one synthetic, natural or naturally derived coloring matter; in particular chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

25. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips, according to any one of claims 1 to 14 and 23, consisting of carrying out the following steps: 1) A composition (A) and a composition (B) are applied to the skin and / or lips i) simultaneously or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application; or a composition (D); at least one of the compositions applied or the applied composition comprising at least one coloring matter; 2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated.

26. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, lip preference, according to any one of claims 1 to 14 and 23, consisting of implementing the following steps: 1) A composition (M) comprising at least one coloring material is applied to the skin and / or the lips; 2) A composition (A) and a composition (B) are applied to the skin and / or lips thus treated, i) simultaneously or ii) in the form of an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use or iii) successively, regardless of the order of application; or a composition (D).

27. ​​Cosmetic makeup and / or care kit, comprising at least: a) a first composition (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5, 10, 12 to 14; and b) a second composition (B) as defined in any one of claims 1, 6 to 9, 11 to 14; said compositions (A) and (B) being packaged separately.