Cosmetic composition comprising amino acids, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and associative polymers, and cosmetic treatment method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising amino acid compounds, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and one or more associative polymers. The invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of hair, using said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising amino acids, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and associative polymers, and cosmetic treatment method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising one or more amino acid compounds, one or more hydroxycarboxylic acids, and one or more associative polymers. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using said composition.

[0002] Consumers around the world generally come into contact with a wide variety of water sources which are not without impact on hair, particularly on its cosmetic properties and / or the performance of hair products.

[0003] So-called mineral waters contain, for example, varying quantities of minerals present in the form of dissolved ions such as calcite (present in the form of calcium), dolomite (present in the form of calcium and magnesium), magnetite (present in the form of iron) and chalcanthite (present in the form of copper). So-called hard waters are also concentrated in minerals such as calcium and magnesium, and swimming pool waters are concentrated in copper salts from algaecides used in swimming pool treatment.

[0004] Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and / or their metallic salts due to the presence on their surface of anionic functions which correspond in particular to the sulfonic or carboxylic functions of keratin. Furthermore, the isoelectric point of the hair is generally described between 3.2 and 4. As a result, in everyday life, the pH of the water applied to the hair is higher than such values ​​which leads to a negatively charged fiber.

[0005] Minerals, often polyvalent cations, will therefore be attracted and captured by this negatively charged fiber, forming chemical bonds that prevent their release by conventional hair treatment processes. This results in a possible accumulation of minerals on the hair over time. Such fixation depends not only on the hardness of the water, the frequency and / or duration of exposure of the hair to the water in question, but also on the nature and length of the hair (in particular porosity and charge) as well as its state of damage.

[0006] The accumulation of these minerals and / or their metallic salts can cause changes in the hair fiber and, in particular, a more or less marked change in the cosmetic properties of the hair. Thus, an accumulation of calcium and of magnesium can lead to dry, lackluster hair, while a buildup of copper can lead to greening of the hair.

[0007] Furthermore, the accumulation of metallic salts (iron, copper, for example) can accelerate damage to the hair because they catalyze redox reactions and generate HO° hydroxyl radicals which can be harmful to the keratin fiber, even at low levels.

[0008] This can result in photo-degradation of the fiber, lightening of the fiber, as well as an alteration of the properties of the hair, which can lead to premature breakage of the hair; these phenomena are particularly observed during the subsequent use of lightening products or coloring products.

[0009] In other words, hair can become less resistant, more weakened, or even break more easily, or even lose its shine, due to the accumulation of minerals and / or their metallic salts.

[0010] There is therefore a real need to have compositions that make it possible to combat the accumulation of metal ions, originating from minerals and metal salts dissolved in water, or even to make it possible to extract them from keratin fibers, in order to limit their negative impacts and overcome all of the drawbacks mentioned above.

[0011] The composition which is the subject of the present invention, and its implementation, make it possible to achieve this goal.

[0012] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for hair, comprising:

[0013] - one or more amino acid type compounds, preferably present in one total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0014] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 atoms of carbon, and / or their salts, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0015] - one or more associative polymers, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] It has been found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance to breakage of the hair, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit its reduction or loss of shine, undesirable effects likely to be caused by the presence of metal ions, in particular copper or calcium, within said fibers.

[0017] After application of the composition, the fibers are as if reinforced, said reinforcement being improved with successive applications of the composition.

[0018] It has also been found that the composition according to the invention also makes it possible to provide conditioning properties to the hair, in particular a feel smoothness, softness, shine and easy detangling, while providing strength, body and a mass effect to the hair.

[0019] It finds a very particular application in the cosmetic treatment, in particular the washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged keratin fibers, in particular following physical (repeated brushing) and / or chemical treatments, for example coloring, bleaching, perming and / or straightening.

[0020] It is particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers loaded with metals, in particular calcium and / or copper, at contents of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm; in particular loaded with copper, in particular at contents of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm and / or loaded with calcium in particular at contents of at least 4,000 ppm, better still at least 10,000 ppm.

[0021] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0022] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it. Amino acid type compounds

[0023] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds.

[0024] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “amino acid compound” means an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) possibly being intracyclic, optionally in salt form.

[0025] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) are chosen from amino acid type compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (therefore not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. Said compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid type compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0026] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid type compounds chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts.

[0027] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (I):

[0028] COOH H — C — N(H)W R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -C0NH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0029] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 members, this cycle not being substituted.

[0030] Preferably, p=2.

[0031] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0032] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0033] The amino acid compounds may also be a salt of a compound of formula (I).

[0034] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium salts and zinc salts.

[0035] The amino acid compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0036] As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

[0037] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures.

[0038] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and their mixtures.

[0039] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures.

[0040] As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0041] Preferably, the amino acid compound is glycine.

[0042] Preferably, the total content of amino acid compound(s) present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] In particular, the total content of compound(s) of amino carboxylic acid type in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] Better still, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] In particular, the total content of amino acid type compound(s) chosen from glycine, its salts and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

[0047] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0048] These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

[0049] Said (poly)acids comprise at least one COOH group (in acid or salified form); they may comprise several, in particular at least 2 COOH groups (in acid or salified form), better still 2 or 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0050] They also include at least one OH group, but may include several, including 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0051] Preferably, they comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated and linear.

[0052] Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form).

[0053] Salts of these (poly)acids include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium salts and zinc salts. Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.

[0054] Preferably, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from alpha hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals; very particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid as well as their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium citrate.

[0055] Preferably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids chosen from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Associative polymer

[0059] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more as- polymers sociative. Preferably, associative polymers are non-ionic.

[0060] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means any compound resulting from the polymerization by polycondensation or from the radical polymerization of monomers of which at least one is different from an alkylene oxide and from a monofunctional compound of formula RX, R denoting a Cio-C3o alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally hydroxylated, and X denoting a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxylated or ester group. In particular, all compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide or a fatty amine are excluded.

[0061] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises in its chemical structure at least one hydrophilic zone, or group, and at least one hydrophobic zone, or group.

[0062] The associative polymers according to the invention are polymers comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and whose molecules are capable, in the formulation medium, of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds. Preferably, the fatty chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0063] A particular case of associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, that is to say polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic parts or groups which make them soluble in water and one or more hydrophobic zones or groups (comprising at least one fatty chain) by which the polymers interact and come together with each other or with other molecules.

[0064] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a group or a polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a radical with a perfluorinated or silicone chain. When it designates a hydrocarbon group, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon hydrophobic group originates from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may originate from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol or from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol such as steareth-100. It can also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as polybutadiene.

[0065] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty chain” means a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon.

[0066] By "fatty" compound, such as for example a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound comprising in its main chain at least one hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0067] Among the anionic associative polymers, we can notably cite:

[0068] - (A) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one ether unit fatty chain allyl; and more particularly those: the hydrophilic unit of which is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly still by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; and whose fatty chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (!): CH2=C(R')-CH2OBnR in which R' denotes H or CH3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n ranges from 0 to 100, and R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' denotes H, n = 10 and R denotes a stearyl radical (Ci8).

[0069] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether of formula (I'), and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylene-bis-acrylamide are particularly preferred.

[0070] Particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular that sold by the company BASF under the name SALCARE SC 80 which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40 / 50 / 10), with the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer.

[0071] - (B) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of carboxylic acid type unsaturated olefinic, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the alkyl ester (Ci0-C30) type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0072] Preferably, these polymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) next: CH,. “C—C—QH (H) % 0 in which Ri denotes H, CH3 or C2H5, and whose hydrophobic unit of the unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl ester (Ci0-C30) type corresponds to the monomer of the following formula (III): —0-0¾ (|||) R,. O in which R2 denotes H, CH3 or C2H5, and R3 denotes a C10-C30, preferably C12-C22, alkyl radical.

[0073] Alkyl esters (Ci0-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0074] Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (III) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, R3 denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide, will be used more particularly.

[0075] Among this type of anionic associative polymers, those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above, are more particularly preferred.

[0076] We can notably cite the products sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the trade names PEMULEN TRI, PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL ETD 2020, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 20, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21, with the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and even more preferably PEMULEN TRI and CARBOPOL 1382.

[0077] - (C) maleic anhydride / C30-C38 a-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers such as that the maleic anhydride / C30-C38 a-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer, in particular that sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer).

[0078] - (D) acrylic terpolymers comprising (a) 20 to 70% by weight of an acid because α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a), and (c) 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate. We can notably cite the terpolymer methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40 EO), in particular in 25% aqueous dispersion such as the product VISCOPHOBE DB1000 sold by the company AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL) with the INCI name Poly-acrylate-3.

[0079] - (E) copolymers comprising among their monomers (i) a carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation, in particular acrylic or methacrylic, and of fatty alcohol in particular oxyalkylenated C8-C32, in particular comprising 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, in particular 4 to 50, or even 10 to 40 EO.

[0080] In particular, monomers that may be mentioned include behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate, comprising 10 to 40 EO, in particular 18 to 30 EO.

[0081] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation and of C1-C4 alcohol, in particular a C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate.

[0082] Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one oxyethylenated C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer comprising 2 to 100 moles EO, in particular 4 to 50 EO, or even 10 to 40 EO.

[0083] Examples include ACULYN 22 sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or ACULYN 28 sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER sold by Lubrizol.

[0084] - (F) associative polymers comprising at least one unsaturated monomer ethylenic with a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

[0085] Among the polymers of this type, we can cite more specifically - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS unit (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, as described in application EP-A-750899 -terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US5089578 - copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate as well as copolymers of AMPS and non-crosslinked and crosslinked n-dodecylmethacrylamide - copolymers consisting of AMPS units and steareth-25 methacrylate units such as ARISTOFLEX HMS^ marketed by CLARIANT, (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) or beheneth-25 methacrylate, such as ARISTOFLEX HMB (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) marketed by CLARIANT, or steareth-8 methacrylate, such as ARISTOFLEX SNC^ from CLARIANT (INCI name ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer).

[0086] - (G) associative polymers comprising at least one vinyllactam monomer and at least one less one carboxylic acid monomer with α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation such as terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C1-C20 alkyl methacrylate, for example lauryl, such as that marketed by the company ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE® LM (INCI name VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).

[0087] Among the cationic associative polymers, we can cite: - (A') cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the following general formula (la): RX-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R' in which: R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L"; L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a dü-isocyanate; P and P', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive, n, m, and p are each independently of the others between inclusively 0 and 1000; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0088] Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the R and R' groups at the chain ends.

[0089] A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (Ia) described above in which: R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X, X' each represent a group L”, n and p are integers that range from 1 to 1000 inclusive and L, L', L”, P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0090] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which: n=p=0 (polymers do not contain units derived from an amine-functional monomer, incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation), the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions at the end of the chain, followed by the alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by alkylating agents with a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0091] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which: R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' both independently represent a group comprising a quaternary amine, n = p = 0, and L, L', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0092] The number-average molecular weight (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between inclusively 400 and 500,000, in particular between inclusively 1000 and 400,000 and ideally between inclusively 1000 and 300,000.

[0093] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound.

[0094] For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0095] When X and / or X' denote a group comprising a tertiary or qua- amine R, r

[0096]

[0097] in which: R2 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated cycle, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P; R1 and R3, identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P; A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide like chloride or bromide, or a mesylate. The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula: —ZC-NH-R^NH-CZ— H ' H OO in which: Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and R4 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated cycle, an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P. The groups P and P', comprising an amine function, can represent at least one of the following formulas: in which: R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined previously; R6, Rs and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined previously; Rio represents a linear or branched alkylene group, optionally unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P, and A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as halide such as chloride or bromide or mesylate.

[0098] As regards the meaning of Y, a hydrophilic group is understood to mean a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

[0099] By way of example, when not polymers, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned.

[0100] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, examples that may be mentioned are polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0101] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds having labile hydrogen functions. The labile hydrogen functions may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions giving, after reaction with the dii-isocyanate functions, respectively polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas. The term "polyurethanes" of the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes themselves, polyureas and polythioureas as well as copolymers thereof.

[0102] A first type of compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound comprising at least one amine-functional unit. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, that is to say that according to a preferred embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms carried for example by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. It is also possible to use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

[0103] As indicated above, this compound may comprise more than one amine-functional unit. It is then a polymer carrying a repetition of the amine-functional unit.

[0104] This type of compounds can be represented by one of the following formulas: HZ-(P)n-ZH, or HZ-(P')p-ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

[0105] Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0106] The second compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=N-R4-N=C=O in which R4 is defined above.

[0107] By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexanediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate, toluenediisocyanate, naphthalenediisocyanate, butanediisocyanate, hexanediisocyanate.

[0108] A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).

[0109] This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a labile hydrogen function, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

[0110] For example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. When this compound comprises a polymer chain, it may be, for example, alpha-hydroxyl hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0111] The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) can also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0112] The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound entering into the preparation of the polymer. This compound can be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. We can also have a mixture where the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

[0113] The labile hydrogen functions are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound can be a polymer terminated at the ends of the chains by one of these labile hydrogen functions.

[0114] By way of example, when not polymers, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol may be mentioned.

[0115] When it is a hydrophilic polymer, examples that may be mentioned are polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0116] The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Indeed, the units with a quaternary or protonated amine function may be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

[0117] Although the presence of a hydrophilic Y group is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes comprising such a group are preferred.

[0118] - (B') quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular: - i) quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

[0119] - ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

[0120] - iii) hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib): in which: R and R', identical or different, represent an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl group, C1-C30, preferably C1-C20, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; and n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

[0121] The alkyl radicals carried by the celluloses i) or quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) above preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0122] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include the product QUATRISOFT LM 200^, marketed by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL (INCI name Polyquaternium-24) and the products CRODACEL QM^ (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Coco-dimonium Chloride), CRODACEL QL^ (C12 alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride) and CRODACEL QS^ (C18 alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride) marketed by the company CRODA.

[0123] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, more preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl ,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl ,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known under the trade names SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL with the INCI name Polyquaternium-67.

[0124] More particularly, the polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2000 and 3000 cPs. Preferably, the viscosity is inclusively between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

[0125] - (C') cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising: - a) at least one vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer; - b) at least one monomer of the following structures (le) or (Ile): 15 + CH^C(RJ-CO-X-(y)-(CHrCH2-O)-{^^ THERE (THE) Rs CH“C(R..)-CO-X-(Y)—(CH£rCHX))-(CH2^^ — (UC) ^4 in which: X denotes an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical, RI and R6 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc): ---(Yg),—(CH2-CH(R7)-O) —Rg (|||c) in which: Y, Y1 and Y2 denote, independently of one another, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical, R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, p, q and r denote, independently of each other, either the value zero or the value 1, m and n denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging inclusively from 0 to 100, x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusive, Z denotes an anionic counterion of organic or mineral acid, such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate; provided that: - at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 denotes a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl radical, - if m or n is different from zero, then q is equal to 1, - if m or n are equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

[0126] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may also be block polymers.

[0127] Preferably the counterion Z- of the monomers of formula (Ic) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, the methosulfate ion, the tosylate ion.

[0128] Preferably R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, an atom of hydrogen or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.

[0129] More preferably, the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) for which, preferably, m and n are equal to zero.

[0130] The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc): CH(R„)=C(Kn)-N— ' \ / .K in which s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical and RIO denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, provided that at least one of the radicals R9 and RIO denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0131] Even more preferably, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0132] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic.

[0133] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least: a)-a monomer of formula (IVc), b)-a monomer of formula (Ic) in which p=1, q=0, R3 and R4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 denotes a linear or branched C9-C24 alkyl radical and c) - a monomer of formula (IIe) in which R3 and R4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical.

[0134] Even more preferably, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40 to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0135] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are used in particular: - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate or lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymers.

[0136] The vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / chloride terpolymer lauryl dimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium is notably offered by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10^ or Styleze W20L^ (INCI name Poly quaternium- 55).

[0137] The molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000, more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and preferentially between 400,000 and 800,000.

[0138] - (D') cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO2004 / 024779.

[0139] Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the products of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: - a di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl)methacrylate, - one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, - a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide unit), - a polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol 30 / 5 allyl ether, - a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and - an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0140] Such a polymer is, for example, the compound marketed by the company LUBRIZOL under the name CARBOPOL AQUA CC^ and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer.

[0141] The non-ionic associative polymers are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0142] (1) Celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one chain fatty, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28; preferably among: - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, such as cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose marketed in particular under the reference NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland, - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether nonyl phenol) sold by the company AMERCHOL, - and their mixtures.

[0143] (2) Hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better C14-C28, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (CM alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C2o alkyl chain) sold by the company RHODIA.

[0144] (3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fatty, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better C14-C28. Examples include: - the vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer and in particular the ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 products sold by the company ISP - the vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer and in particular the ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 products sold by the company ISP

[0145] (4) Copolymers of methacrylates or acrylates of C1-C6 alkyls and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28, such as for example the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208.

[0146] (5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and monomers hydrophobic comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28, such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0147] (6) Polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both sequences hydrophilic, most often polyoxyethylenated in nature, and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.

[0148] (7) Polymers with an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one chain fatty, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better C14-C28, such as the PURE THIX compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

[0149] Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendant chains to be provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0150] Polyether polyurethanes can be multi-block, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multi-block copolymer for example). These same polymers can also be grafted or star-shaped.

[0151] Non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Non-ionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0152] By extension, non-ionic fatty chain polyurethane polyethers also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

[0153] As examples of non-ionic polyether polyurethanes with a fatty chain that can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rhéolate 205® with a urea function sold by the company RHEOX or Rhéolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® with a Cl2-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® with a Cl8 alkyl chain from AKZO. The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

[0154] It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, particularly in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J offered by the company ROHM & HAAS.

[0155] The polyether polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380.389 (1993).

[0156] More particularly still, it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0157] Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0158] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more non-ionic associative polymers, preferentially chosen from polyether polyurethanes.

[0159] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] Preferably, the non-ionic associative polymer(s) are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0161] Preferably, the non-ionic associative polymer(s) chosen from polyether polyurethanes are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicones

[0162] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more silicones, which may in particular be chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-amino silicones, which may be solid or liquid, preferably liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile.

[0164] The non-amino silicones that can be used can be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0165] Silicones are notably described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.

[0166] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), in particular from

[0167] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as

[0168] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). may cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.

[0169] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type of structure chemical: pD-D'-------DD*'—। CH, 1 CH, 1 / . 1' with DO with p' ; $ CH, CAt

[0170] We can cite the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0171] - mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl-pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0172] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0173] Other silicones falling within this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; we can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

[0174] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amino organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more non-amino organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0175] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0176] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:

[0177] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups comprising even usually C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE; or alkyl(Ci2)-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;

[0178] - thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;

[0179] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

[0180] - hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hy- function droxyalkyl;

[0181] - acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the US patent No. 4,957,732.

[0182] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255".

[0183] The silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, we can cite the following commercial products:

[0184] - SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils commer marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0185] - the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;

[0186] - DOW CORNING company 200 series oils such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm2 / s;

[0187] - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0188] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the oils of series 48 from the company RHODIA.

[0189] In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also cite the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

[0190] Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:

[0191] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the DOW CORNING company.

[0192] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.105 to 5.10 2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0193] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite the products marketed under the following names:

[0194] - SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;

[0195] - oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

[0196] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0197] - BAYER PK series silicones such as the product PK20;

[0198] - BAYER PN, PH series silicones such as PN1000 and PH1000 products

[0199] - certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0200] The non-amino silicones more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

[0201] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amino silicones.

[0202] Amino silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0203] The amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m2 / s.

[0204] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

[0205] A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I):

[0206] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0207] B) amino silicones corresponding to formula (II):

[0208] R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (II)

[0209] in which:

[0210] - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, CrC8 alkyl, for example methyl or CrC8 alkoxy, for example methoxy, - a, a', identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

[0211] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0212] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0213] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+ H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A , -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A and -NR”-QN +(R”)3 A, in which R”, which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0214] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (II) may be chosen from:

[0215] (i) “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III): ' £ Jan)

[0216] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0217] (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV):

[0218]

[0219]

[0220]

[0221]

[0222]

[0223]

[0224] in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 designating an alkoxy radical. Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1. The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol. (iii) silicones of the following formula (V):

[0225]

[0226]

[0227]

[0228]

[0229] in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Ri, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical. Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical. The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0230] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0231] Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (IV) or (V). A product containing amino silicones of structure (IV) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing amino silicones of structure (V) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (XIV) is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0232] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but preferably cationic and / or non-ionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive). Thus, the microemulsions of amino silicone of formula (V) proposed under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER may be used according to the invention.

[0233] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI):

[0234] in which:

[0235] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in par particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0236] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0237] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING.

[0238] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

[0239] in which:

[0240] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in par particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and

[0241] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0242] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone with this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.

[0243] C) amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

[0244] in which:

[0245] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, or C2-C18 alkenyl, for example methyl;

[0246] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in CrCi8 or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0247] - Q is a union such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, especially acetate;

[0248] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;

[0249] and - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0250] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) (IX)

[0251] in which:

[0252] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0253] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent CrCi8 alkyleneoxy radical, for example CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0254] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hy radical monovalent carbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

[0255] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, especially acetate; and

[0256] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, mention may be made of the silicone with the INCI name: QUATERNIUM 80.

[0257] Silicones falling into this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names AB IL QU AT 3270, AB IL QU AT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

[0258] E) amino silicones of formula (X):

[0259]

[0260]

[0261]

[0262]

[0263]

[0264]

[0265]

[0266]

[0267]

[0268]

[0269]

[0270]

[0271]

[0272]

[0273]

[0274] (X) in which: - Rb R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g; F) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group. Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' ' )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R' ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-C12 divalent hydrocarbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denote a CH 2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and - R', identical or different, represent a divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote a radical ethylene, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0275] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85 mol%.

[0276] The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0277] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0278] G) amino silicones of formulae (XI) and (XII): GH, CH, | IR*- ? CH, < $ : y * ( $ < • < .> & to—b to —b'-'H' G— CH CK, ? î À ​​; CH, “L ] i ] HH HK, (XI)

[0279] in which:

[0280] - R, R' and R”, which are identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

[0281] - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

[0282] - m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000. L (xii)

[0283] in which:

[0284] - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably from 1 to 100;

[0285] - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, denote a group alkyl, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

[0286] - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0287] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. In particular, the following divalent groups may be mentioned: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0288] Preferably, R 1 and R 2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R 1 and R 2, identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0289] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII), we have:

[0290] - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

[0291] - ranging from 1 to 100;

[0292] - A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is selected from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and

[0293] - R1 and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R 1 and R 2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0294] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

[0295] H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at a single chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

[0296] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV) include the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin Etsu.

[0297] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.

[0298] As an example of amino silicones of formula (XV), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0299] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000.

[0300] As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

[0301] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below:

[0302] in which:

[0303] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;

[0304] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10 and even better between 1 and 5;

[0305] - R'”, identical or different, preferably identical, are alkyl radicals linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals can optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl OH groups;

[0306] - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, especially 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0307] - R' ' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, especially from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0308] Preferably, the R'”, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals; preferably the R's, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C13, C14 and C15, alone or as a mixture, and better still represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15.

[0309] Preferably, the R's are identical.

[0310] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a radical -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-.

[0311] Preferably, R'' is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, in particular of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a radical -CH2-CH2-.

[0312] Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0313] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0314] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0315] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0316] - R' is a divalent alkylene radical having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

[0317] - R” is a linear divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0318] Even better, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

[0319] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0320] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0321] - R'”, identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0322] - R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and

[0323] - R' ' is a radical -(CH2)2-.

[0324] A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may in particular be made of the silicone marketed under the name “DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent” by DOW.

[0325] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,

[0326] - amino silicones of formula (II), preferably those in which G denotes a C1-C8 alkyl and a=a'=0; a silicone of formula (II) which is very particularly preferred being aminopropyldimethicone, such as that marketed under the name X-22-9686 by SHIN ETSU;

[0327] - quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) above;

[0328] - the amino silicones of formula (XVIII) above, in particular those in in which n is a number between 50 and 80; m is a number between 1 and 5; R”', which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and R” is a radical -(CH2)2-,

[0329] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total content preferably ranging from 0.3 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and preferentially from 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0330] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise the amino silicone(s) in a total content preferably ranging from 0.3 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and preferably from 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants

[0331] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0332] Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone, that is to say they do not contain Si-O groups.

[0333] They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and their mixtures.

[0334] The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants chosen from, alone or as a mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

[0335] - compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II): in which:

[0336] X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates;

[0337] the groups R 1 to R 4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 1 to R 4 designating a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0338] The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from CrC30 alkyl, CrC30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), CrC30 alkylamide, alkyl(C12-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(C12-C22)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl (C1-C30).

[0339] Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts are preferred, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, steara- midopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts such as those marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0340] It is particularly preferred to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds.

[0341] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III): R (III) .a / CHgCH—| N "' X \ / 'R? C“C ] H2 in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0342] Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a methyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0343] Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0344] - quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts, in particular of formula (IV): in which

[0345] R9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0346] Rio is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(R10a)(Riia)N-(CH2)3, with R9a, RiOa, Rna, Ru, R12, Rb and R14, identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0347] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P proposed by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT proposed by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0348] - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (V): (V) o Or —N—x in which:

[0349] Rb is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

[0350] Rie is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-; the groups R2o which are hydrocarbon groups in C1-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom,

[0351] Ri8 is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; the groups R22 which are hydrocarbon groups in C1-C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom;

[0352] Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0353] r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0354] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

[0355] x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0356] X is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

[0357] provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R[6 designates R20 and that when z is 0 then R[8 designates R22.

[0358] The alkyl groups R[5 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R[5 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or di-hydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0359] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0360] When R[6 is a hydrocarbon group R20, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0361] When R[8 is a hydrocarbon group R22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0362] Advantageously, Rn, R[9 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from the Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly among the Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0363] Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

[0364] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0365] Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0366] The anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

[0367] It is possible to use more particularly in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which Ri5 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; Ri6 is selected from the group R19-C(O)-, the methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom; Ri8 is selected from the group R21-C(O)- and the hydrogen atom; Rn, R19 and R2i, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0368] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

[0369] Examples that may be mentioned are compounds of formula (V) such as the salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.

[0370] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on Cio-C3o fatty acids or on mixtures of Cio-C30 fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol.

[0371] Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

[0372] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

[0373] It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

[0374] Behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

[0375] Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0376] Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium salts.

[0377] The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.

[0378] Preferably, the fatty amines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0379] As fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain possibly being carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0380] Amidoamine means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0381] Fatty amidoamine is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0382] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0383] Among the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of the following formula (VI): RCONHR”N(R')2(VI) in which: - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0384] The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by the company INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0385] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

[0386] The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II), those of formula (V), those of formula (VI), and their mixtures; better still from those of formula (II) and / or of formula (VI); even better still from those of formula (II).

[0387] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0388] Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmi- methosulfate toylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.

[0389] When they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0390] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the total content of cationic surfactant(s) and the total content of amino acid type compounds is greater than or equal to 1. Cationic polymers

[0391] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more cationic polymers, different from the associative polymers described above. This or these cationic polymers are therefore non-associative.

[0392] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0393] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better still less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0394] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions where it is completely ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportion. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0395] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5.106 approximately, preferably of between 103 and 3.106 approximately.

[0396] The cationic polymers that can be used are preferably non-associative.

[0397] Among the cationic polymers that can be used, we can cite:

[0398] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylic and comprising at least one of the units of the following formula:

[0399] in which:

[0400] - R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

[0401] - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0402] - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0403] - RI and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0404] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a me- anion thosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0405] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

[0406] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can cite:

[0407] - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

[0408] - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl chloride ammonium, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

[0409] - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl methosulfate ammonium, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

[0410] - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or the products called "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937";

[0411] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinyl- terpolymers pyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0412] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;

[0413] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers qua- tarnished, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

[0414] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) salts trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. More particularly, a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) may be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. Alternatively, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester may be used.These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.

[0415] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and ga- cationic lactomannans.

[0416] Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0417] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0418] We can notably cite the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company AMERCHOL.

[0419] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US4131576; mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. Mention may in particular be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, the quaternizing agent possibly being in particular diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and in particular hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium

[0420] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0421] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, mention may in particular be made of the polymer with the INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

[0422] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in patents US3589578 and US4031307; mention may be made of cationic guar gums, in particular those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular trimethylammonium. Mention may thus be made of guar gums modified by a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0423] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the number of hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are connected by cationic trialkylammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may be made in particular of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used.

[0424] In particular, mention may be made of the products with the INCI name “HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE” and “GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

[0425] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, mention may also be made of cationic derivatives of cassia gum, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, mention may be made of the product with the INCI name “CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”.

[0426] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene radicals or hydroxyalkylene with linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0427] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

[0428] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylenes polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Examples include adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

[0429] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine copolymer.

[0430] (7) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising as the main constituent of the chain units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

[0431] in which

[0432] - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

[0433] - R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0434] - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group in C1-C6, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or RIO and RI 1 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and RI 1, independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0435] - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

[0436] Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6) for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

[0437] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula: ^3 --N+-A. — — OH) I! iv Rux-

[0438] in which:

[0439] - R13, R14, R15 and R16, identical or different, represent ali radicals phatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or Cl-Cl2 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals,

[0440] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen

[0441] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;

[0442] - Al and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0443] - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0444] it being understood that Al, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

[0445] furthermore if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-, with n and p, identical or different, being integers varying from 2 to 20, and D designating:

[0446] a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0447] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

[0448] c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[0449] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0450] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.

[0451] We can cite more particularly polymers which are made up of recurring units corresponding to the formula: RR naked -N-(CHA — W) । - | v- ' ■

[0452] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are whole numbers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0453] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, called Hexadi-methrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

[0454] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V): Ra — N+ - (CH A- NH- CO - (CH A - CO -NH • (CHA - N+ - A — X-। ' ■ ■ ^'9 -■ zo ,

[0455] in which:

[0456] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0457] - r and s, identical or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6,

[0458] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0459] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0460] - A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents - CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0461] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

[0462] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF

[0463] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

[0464] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:

[0465] (a) one or more units corresponding to the following formula (A): —CHj—CH — NHc Z.

[0466] (b) optionally one or more patterns corresponding to the following formula (B): CH..--CH z | (B) NH CH II O

[0467] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0468] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably from 10 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

[0469] These polymers can be obtained for example by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium.

[0470] The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, may vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0471] The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by the company BASF, such as, for example, and in a non-limiting manner, the products offered under the names LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

[0472] Preferably, the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM-10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0473] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.07 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0474] When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) of family (1) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.07 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0475] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.07 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic polysaccharides

[0476] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, different from the associative polymers described above. This or these non-ionic polysaccharides are therefore non-associative.

[0477] The non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture, celluloses, starches, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers or esters.

[0478] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, temperature can be cited; and as a chemical treatment, esterification, etherification, amidation, oxidation reactions can be cited, insofar as these treatments make it possible to produce polymers which are non-ionic.

[0479] As galactomannans which may be used, mention may be made of non-ionic guar gums which may be modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0480] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0481] The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0482] Such non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, Jaguar HP105 SGI and Jaguar HP8 SGI by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0483] The starch molecules that can be used in the present invention may have cereals or tubers as their botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, and pea starches. The starches may be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatments.

[0484] The starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch such as corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably from potatoes.

[0485] Non-ionic polysaccharides may also be cellulosic polymers not comprising a C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0486] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; the cellulosic polymers may be unsubstituted celluloses, and / or non-ionic cellulose derivatives.

[0487] Thus, the cellulose polymers that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulose polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester-ethers.

[0488] Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

[0489] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; and even better from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; and / or celluloses, substituted or not, and cellulose ethers such as (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C4)alkylcelluloses.

[0490] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl (INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR).

[0491] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0492] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) chosen from celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers, and their mixtures, in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0493] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers and one or more non-ionic polysaccharides; in particular one or more cationic polymers and one or more non-ionic guar gums. Nonionic surfactants

[0494] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0495] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures:

[0496] - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols;

[0497] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

[0498] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylenated;

[0499] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethyl- lene glycols;

[0500] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol of preferably oxyethylenated;

[0501] - esters of fatty acids and sucrose,

[0502] - alkyl(poly)glycosides optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and may include 1 to 15 glucose units,

[0503] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not;

[0504] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates;

[0505] - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives;

[0506] - amine oxides.

[0507] The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

[0508] The number of moles of ethylene and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 10.

[0509] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylenated units.

[0510] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50.

[0511] As examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the following are preferably used: C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

[0512] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY-GLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0513] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8 to C10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C10 to C12 alcohol with one mole of glycerol and the C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol.

[0514] Non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type can in particular be represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0515] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0516] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0517] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0518] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

[0519] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0520] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0521] - RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0522] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0523] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0524] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0525] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, of preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0526] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. Particularly preferred are C8 / C16 alkyl-(poly)glucosides 1,4, and in particular decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.

[0527] Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0528] Preferably, C8 / C16-alkyl (poly)glycosides 1,4 are used, in particular in 53% aqueous solution, such as those marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.

[0529] The non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0530] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains;

[0531] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;

[0532] - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glycosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably of 0 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0533] - C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol;

[0534] - amides of C8 to C30 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylenated;

[0535] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of poly ethylene glycols;

[0536] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated.

[0537] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,:

[0538] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18;

[0539] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, and

[0540] - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0541] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5%. by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Fatty body

[0542] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances, which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

[0543] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds.

[0544] By solid fatty substance is meant a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

[0545] Advantageously, the solid fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0546] The solid fatty bodies may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0547] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acids that can be used in the present invention are in particular chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearyl acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Said fatty acids are different from the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms previously described.

[0548] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 atoms. of carbon.

[0549] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture:

[0550] - myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

[0551] - cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

[0552] - stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

[0553] - arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

[0554] - behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

[0555] - lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

[0556] - ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

[0557] - montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

[0558] - myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0559] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol, better still the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0560] The solid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0561] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0562] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.

[0563] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0564] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0565] Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0566] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0567] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0568] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0569] Mention may also be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

[0570] Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0571] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0572] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0573] As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0574] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;we can cite in particular camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.;

[0575] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter, shea butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0576] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable to be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, mention may be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

[0577] The ceramides or their analogues which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: * MH OM ■""" OW >.0 R NM

[0578] in which:

[0579] - RI denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from acids C14-C30 fatty acid, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

[0580] - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a group (galactosyl)m or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0581] - R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in position alpha, this group being able to be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;

[0582] it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.

[0583] Preferably, ceramides are used for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a ga-lactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0584] The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated or unsaturated C15 group.

[0585] It is also possible to use compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

[0586] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-pahnitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)cetyl acid amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

[0587] As liquid fatty bodies which may be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0588] The liquid fatty substances have a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C, at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0589] It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0590] The liquid hydrocarbons may be C6 to C18, and may be linear, branched, or possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from C8-C16 alkanes, especially C10-C14. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0591] Liquid hydrocarbons may also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; mention may be made of paraffin or vaseline oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

[0592] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0593] The liquid fatty alcohols may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 atoms. of carbon, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linolenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0594] Liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, include in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0595] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0596] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0597] Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0598] Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0599] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; trii- sopropyl; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0600] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0601] Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

[0602] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0603] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0604] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.

[0605] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0606] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0607] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0608] Preferably, the fatty substances are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0609] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the fatty substance(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 18% by weight, preferentially from 2 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional compounds

[0610] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration preferably ranging from 50 to 95% by weight, for example from 55 to 90% by weight, in particular from 60 to 85% by weight, better still from 65 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0611] The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7, or even between 4 and 6.

[0612] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents, liquid at 25°C, 1 atm., preferably hydrophilic (soluble or miscible with water) which may be chosen from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C2-C8 polyols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is chosen from C2-C4 mono-, di- or tri-diols. It may advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, propane 1,2-diol (propylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.

[0613] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more usual cosmetic ingredients, in particular chosen from thickeners, gelling agents, both different from the polymers described above; sunscreens; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidant agents; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, pearlescents, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0614] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, may comprise:

[0615] - one or more amino acid type compounds corresponding to formula (I) such that defined above, in which p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better still R represents a hydrogen atom;

[0616] preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0617] - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 atoms of carbon, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, and / or their salts, of preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 6% by weight,

[0618] - one or more associative polymers, preferably non-ionic, better chosen among polyether polyurethanes;

[0619] preferably present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0620] - optionally one or more silicones, preferably chosen from amino silicones, non-amino silicones, and mixtures thereof;

[0621] preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.3 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, better still from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0622] - optionally one or more cationic surfactants preferably chosen among those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and their mixtures, better among those of formula (II) and / or those of formula (VI) above;

[0623] preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0624] - optionally one or more cationic polymers, notably chosen from polymers of family (1), celluloses and / or cationic galactomannan gums; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.07 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0625] - optionally one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, notably chosen among alone or in a mixture, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups; preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0626] - optionally one or more non-ionic surfactants; preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0627] The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds in particular a particularly interesting application in the hair field, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning the hair. The hair compositions are preferably lotions, masks or conditioners, but can also be presented in the form of a shampoo, particularly a conditioner, which can be rinsed out; or in the form of a pre-shampoo, which can be rinsed out or not before applying a shampoo.

[0628] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to keratin materials, in particular to the hair. It is thus possible to optionally rinse, for example with water, after a possible exposure time. Preferably, it is rinsed after a possible exposure time.

[0629] The invention also relates to a process for cosmetic treatment, in particular hair treatment, in particular for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, preferably followed by rinsing, after a possible application time.

[0630] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, or even hair loaded with metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium.

[0631] In particular, it may be a cosmetic treatment process for strengthening hair, particularly sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.

[0632] It may also be a process for limiting the loss of shine in hair, particularly when it is sensitized, weakened and / or damaged.

[0633] Said method may also comprise at least two successive application steps, on the hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, of a composition as defined above; this is then referred to as a multi-application method.

[0634] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0635] In the following examples, all quantities are indicated, unless otherwise indicated, as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (g% MA) relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1

[0636] The following compositions A according to the invention and A' comparative were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (g% MA):

[0637] [Tables 1] Composition A A' CITRIC ACID 1.5 1.5 GLYCINE 2.5 2.5 PEG-150 / DECYL ALCOHOL / SMDI COPOLYMER 0.6 - AMODIMETHICONE 1.1 1.1 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3 3 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 0.15 0.15 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7 7 CETYL ESTERS 1.5 1.5 ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 0.7 0.7 GLYCERIN 1 1 POLYQUATERNIUM-37 0.08 0.08 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0.2 0.2 STEARETH-100 0.25 0.25 Preservatives Qs Qs Water Qs 100% Qs 100%

[0638] Composition A is in the form of a cream and can advantageously be used before shampooing as a pre-shampoo or after shampooing as a hair mask.

[0639] This composition can be used for detangling hair, providing care and strength (body and mass effect) and leads to an improved hair feel, even from root to tip (smooth feel).

[0640] The composition also exhibits reinforcing properties.

[0641] The smoothness of the fiber is evaluated using the extensometry method.

[0642] The compositions were applied to strands of moderately bleached Caucasian hair, previously washed with shampoo and rinsed.

[0643] 0.4 g of composition is then applied per g of hair and rinsed; the locks are then dried in an oven (30 min, 60°C), then the measurement is taken.

[0644] Principle of the method: the method consists of measuring the friction forces of a wick, during its movement (in the root / tip direction) at constant speed, between two pads clamping it at constant compression. This method thus makes it possible to evaluate the “smoothness to the touch” by mimicking the passage of two fingers along a wick of hair.

[0645] The lower the forces required to travel the length of the strand, the smoother the surface condition of the hair.

[0646] We obtain the following results (average over 3 strands):

[0647] [Tables2] Work (mJ) Standard deviation Composition A 55.48 8.68 Composition A' 102.74 17.23

[0648] The lower the measured work, the better the performance of the evaluated formula in terms of smoothness.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, comprising: - one or more amino acid type compounds chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) and / or their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc: COOH (I) H — C — P in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: * when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; * when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (CrC i2)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2;present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and - one or more associative polymers, preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.;

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the integer p of formula (I) is equal to 2 and the radical R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated (Ci-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2; better p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amino acid type compound(s) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc, and their mixtures; preferentially chosen from glycine, its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc, and their mixtures.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of amino acid type compound(s) ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups; and / or their salts, in particular of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals or zinc; preferably chosen from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; very particularly citric acid and / or tartaric acid as well as their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the associative polymer(s) are non-ionic and are preferably chosen from polyether polyurethanes.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the associative polymer(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more silicones, in particular amino silicones; preferably present at a total content ranging from 0.3 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 at 4% by weight, even better from 0.6 to 3% by weight, and preferably from 0.7 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferentially from 0.3 to 7% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. 11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; as well as mixtures thereof; in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.07 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-ionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from, alone or as a mixture, celluloses, galactomannans, and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular their ethers; better still, from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl and / or celluloses, substituted or not and cellulose ethers such as (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses; preferentially, chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular hydroxypropyl; preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular in a total content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; in particular in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 18% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Process for cosmetic treatment, in particular hair treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of keratin fibres, in particular hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, preferably followed by rinsing, after a possible exposure time.

16. Method according to claim 15, for hair treatment, in particular washing and / or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, or hair loaded with metal ions, in particular copper and / or calcium.

17. Method according to one of claims 15 to 16, for strengthening hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair, and / or for limiting the loss of shine of hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and / or damaged hair.