EYEBROW PRIMER
The eyebrow primer with transparent filler, polyacrylamide thickener, and high HLB surfactants addresses the issue of flaking in conventional gels, offering long-lasting hold and improved aesthetic appearance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022005482
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-06-08
- Publication Date
- 2025-07-18
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-06-08
AI Technical Summary
Conventional eyebrow gels become dry and flake after a day of use, leading to stiff or crunchy eyebrows, and there is a need for a product that provides strong hold and ease of application.
An eyebrow primer comprising at least 5% transparent filler, a polyacrylamide thickener, at least 2% high HLB surfactants, and a water-dispersed latex polymer, with optional components like water-soluble polymers and humectants, to create a long-lasting, easy-to-apply formula.
The eyebrow primer maintains a strong hold and enhances the appearance of eyebrows, reducing flaking and providing a more aesthetic finish both immediately after application and after several hours.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: EYEBROW PRIMER Technical field
[0001] The present disclosure relates to cosmetic formulations and methods of use, and eyebrow primers in particular. CONTEXT
[0002] Consumers can use eyebrow gels to enhance the characteristics of their eyebrows. However, conventional eyebrow gels become dry and flake even after less than a day of use, making the eyebrows appear stiff or crunchy. To enable the desired longevity while providing strong hold and maintaining ease of application, a new approach is needed. BRIEF SUMMARY
[0003] In some embodiments, to provide the desired hold, hold, and ease of application, an eyebrow primer may be used. The eyebrow primer may include at least 5% by weight of a clear filler, a polyacrylamide thickener, at least 2% by weight of one or more high HLB surfactants, and a water-dispersed latex polymer. In preferred embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be substantially free of oils. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free of pigments. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free of clays, such as hectorite.
[0004] In some embodiments, the transparent filler may include talc, mica, silica, polyamide powders, poly-[3-3-alanine] powders; polyethylene powders; polyurethane powders, lauroyl lysine; starch; boron nitride; polymeric hollow microspheres, silicone resin powders, silica hollow microspheres; glass microcapsules; ceramic microcapsules; or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the transparent filler may include only talc. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include 5% to 10% talc.
[0005] In some embodiments, the one or more high HLB surfactants may include ceteareth-25. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include at least 0.5% by weight of the polyacrylamide thickener. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include at least 2% by weight of the water-dispersed latex polymer.
[0006] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include a water-soluble polymer, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). In some embodiments embodiment, the eyebrow primer may include at least 3% by weight of the water-soluble polymer.
[0007] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include one or more C3-C6 polyhydric alcohols. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include one or more additional surfactants or co-emulsifiers, wherein the one or more additional surfactants or co-emulsifiers are not a high HLB surfactant. In some embodiments, the one or more additional surfactants or co-emulsifiers may be present in an amount of 1% to 3% by weight of the eyebrow primer.
[0008] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include a humectant or a water-soluble solvent. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer according to the invention further comprises a humectant or water-soluble solvent in a total amount of 7% to 13% by weight. In some embodiments, the humectant or water-soluble solvent may be present in an amount of 5% to 10% by weight of the eyebrow primer.
[0009] In some embodiments, a method for styling eyebrows is provided. The method may include applying an embodiment of an eyebrow primer as disclosed herein to an eyebrow, and then applying an eyebrow makeup composition, such as a pigmented eyebrow makeup composition, over the eyebrow primer. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0010] As used herein, the phrase "about [a number]" is intended to include values rounded to the appropriate significant figure. Thus, "about 1" is intended to include values between 0.5 and 1.5, while "about 1.0" is intended to include values between 0.95 and 1.05.
[0011] As used herein, the term "at least one" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0012] In this document, the expression "between [two numbers]" is intended to include both of these numbers. For example, "x is between 1 and 2" is intended to cover 1 < x < 2. The expression "x is between about 1 and about 2" would be intended to cover 0.95 < x < 2.05.
[0013] As used herein, the term "free from [an ingredient]" means that the composition contains no detectable amount of the identified ingredient. As used herein, the term "substantially free from [an ingredient]" means that the composition contains less than 1% of the identified ingredient.
[0014] In this document, the terms "include", "includes" and "including" are intended to be non-limiting.
[0015] All concentrations are expressed as percentage by weight on an active basis, unless otherwise indicated. Eyebrow Primer
[0016] In some embodiments, an eyebrow primer is provided. The eyebrow primer is preferably an aqueous formula.
[0017] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer includes water in an amount of 40%, 50%, or 60% up to about 70%, 80%, or 90% by weight of the eyebrow primer, including all combinations and sub-ranges thereof. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer comprises at least 60% water by weight.
[0018] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be an emulsion. However, any oil phase in the emulsion is preferably very small. Preferably, the eyebrow primer is substantially free of oils.
[0019] In some embodiments, the eyebrow filler may comprise, or consist of, water, a clear filler, a high HLB surfactant, a polyacrylamide thickener, a water-dispersed latex polymer, a water-soluble polymer, a polyhydric alcohol, an additional surfactant or co-emulsifier, a water-soluble humectant and / or solvent, a chelating agent, a preservative, and an oil. Transparent charge
[0020] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include at least 5% by weight of a transparent filler. Transparent fillers are generally filler materials that, when applied to the skin and allowed to dry, do not leave a white (or colored) deposit. In some embodiments, the transparent filler may include talc, mica, silica, polyamide powders, poly-[3-3-alanine] powders; polyethylene powders; polyurethane powders, lauroyl lysine; starch; boron nitride; polymeric hollow microspheres, silicone resin powders, silica hollow microspheres; glass microcapsules; ceramic microcapsules; or a combination thereof.
[0021] In some embodiments, the transparent filler may be talc.
[0022] The transparent filler, such as talc, may or may not be coated. A non-coated example limiting of a suitable talc for the disclosed composition is that sold under the trade name Talc P-3® by the Nippon Talc Company. The transparent filler used may have a particular size. Although the filler may (or may not) be spherical in shape, particle size analyzers are often used to provide an estimate of the size. As such, the filler may be found to have a median diameter (D50) < 7 microns, < 5 microns, < 3 microns, or < 2 microns, and generally the D50 is >0.1 micron, >1 micron, or > 1.5 micron, and / or any combination thereof.
[0023] In some embodiments, the total amount of transparent filler used in the eyebrow filler may be at least 5%, or at least 10% by weight of the eyebrow filler. In some embodiments, the eyebrow filler may include between 5% and 10% by weight of transparent filler. High HLB surfactants
[0024] The eyebrow primer may include one or more high HLB surfactants. As used herein, the term "high HLB surfactant" is intended to include any surfactant with a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) greater than or equal to 9. In some embodiments, all of the high HLB surfactants have HLB values > 10. In some embodiments, all of the high HLB surfactants have HLB values > 11. In some embodiments, the weighted HLB of all of the high HLB surfactants is > 11 (e.g., if the composition includes 1% of a surfactant with HLB 9 and 4% of a surfactant with HLB 15, the weighted HLB would be 13.8). In some embodiments, the HLB of each high HLB surfactant is > 15. The HLB value may be determined according to GRIFFIN in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Vol. 5), pages 249-256.
[0025] In some embodiments, the compositions may include at least two high HLB surfactants. In some embodiments, the compositions may include at least three high HLB surfactants. In some embodiments, the compositions may include at least four high HLB surfactants.
[0026] In some embodiments, the high HLB surfactants may be fatty alcohols and / or fatty esters of polyethylene glycol (PEG) or glycerol.
[0027] As used herein, the term "fatty alcohol" includes an alcohol having an aliphatic tail, typically 4 to 30 carbon atoms long. Fatty alcohols may be saturated, monounsaturated, polyunsaturated, linear or branched. Examples of fatty alcohols useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, lauryl alcohol (C12), tetradecanol (C14), pentadecanol (C15), cetyl alcohol (C16), stearyl alcohol (C18), oleyl alcohol (C18), eicosanol (C20) and behenyl alcohol (C22). A person skilled in the art will understand that other fatty alcohols are useful in the present invention.
[0028] As used herein, the term "fatty ester" includes any ester made from a fatty acid to produce, for example, a fatty acid ester. In one embodiment, a fatty ester contains an A side (i.e., the carbon chain attached to the carboxylate oxygen) and a B side (i.e., the carbon chain comprising the parent carboxylate). In a preferred embodiment, the A side is provided by an alcohol, and the B side is provided by a fatty acid. Any alcohol can be used to form the A side of fatty esters.
[0029] As used herein, the term "fatty acid" refers to a carboxylic acid having the formula RCOOH. R represents an aliphatic group, preferably an alkyl group. R will generally comprise between about 4 and about 22 carbon atoms. Fatty acids may be saturated, monounsaturated, or polyunsaturated.
[0030] These high HLB surfactants can be chosen from non-ionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants. Preferably, the surfactants are non-ionic.
[0031] Suitable surfactants with HLB greater than or equal to 9, used alone or in admixture, include fatty alcohols or fatty esters.
[0032] In some embodiments, the high HLB surfactant may include a fatty alcohol such as cetyl, stearyl, and / or behenyl alcohol. In some embodiments, the high HLB surfactants may include cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and may be cetearyl alcohol.
[0033] In some embodiments, the fatty alcohol may be oxyethylenated. In some embodiments, the fatty alcohol may include one or more oxyethylenated fatty alcohols with a number of oxyethylenated units greater than or equal to 10. In some embodiments, the fatty alcohol may include from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, such as from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, such as from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. In some embodiments, the number of oxyethylenated units is preferably greater than or equal to 15. In some embodiments, the fatty alcohol may include oxyethylenated cetyl and stearyl alcohols, comprising at least 10, at least 15, or at least 20 oxyethylenated units. In some embodiments, the fatty alcohol may include ceteareth-25 (a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols containing 25 oxyethylenated units),
[0034] In some embodiments, the high HLB surfactant may include a fatty ester. In some embodiments, the fatty ester may include a polyethylene glycol, an ethoxylated and / or propoxylated glycerol ether, or an alkoxylated sorbitol.
[0035] In some embodiments, the high HLB surfactant may include a C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, polyethylene glycol (or PEG) (which may contain from 1 to 150 ethylene oxide units), such as PEG-50 stearate or PEG-40 monostearate marketed under the trademark MYRJ® by Croda International.
[0036] In some embodiments, the high HLB surfactant may include a C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated glycerol ether (which may contain from 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units), such as polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate or polyglyceryl-6 distearate. In some embodiments, the high HLB surfactant comprises a fatty ester that consists of one or more diesters of stearic acid.
[0037] In some embodiments, the high HLB surfactant may include an alkoxylated sorbitol, and particularly an ethoxylated sorbitol, such as polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (also referred to as polysorbate 20), polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate (also referred to as polysorbate 60), or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate (also referred to as polysorbate 80).
[0038] In some embodiments, the high HLB surfactants may be free, or substantially free, of fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, the high HLB surfactants may be free, or substantially free, of fatty esters.
[0039] In some embodiments, the total amount of high HLB surfactant present in the eyebrow primer may be at least 2%, 4% or 6% up to 8%, 10% or 12% by weight of the eyebrow primer, including all combinations and sub-ranges thereof. In some embodiments, the high HLB surfactants may be present in a total amount of about 3% to about 8% by weight of the eyebrow primer. Polyacrylamide thickener
[0040] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include a polyacrylamide thickener. As used herein, the term "polyacrylamide thickener" refers to polymers based on one or more acrylamide monomers or similar monomers.
[0041] Non-limiting examples of suitable thickening agents include crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, for example in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, such as those sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 lsoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80); and those under the name SEPIPLUS 265 (acrylamide / ammonium acrylate / polyisobutene / polysorbate 20 copolymer), and those under the name SEPIMAX ZEN (ammonium 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonate / dimethylacrylamide / hydrophobic chain copolymer, INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6), all by SEPPIC.Other examples include those under the name SENSOGEL 200 (INCI: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer by Applechem, Inc; those under the name Bluevisc AC (INCI: Acrylamide / Sodium acrylate Copolymer) by Blue Sun International; those under the name OPULYN 303B (INCI: Styrene Acrylamide Copolymer) by Univar Solutions; and those under the name Noevender EC-1 (INCI: Acrylate s / Acrylamide / Copolymer) by Lubrizol.
[0042] In some embodiments, the polyacrylamide thickener may include an acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer.
[0043] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include a total amount of the polyacrylamide thickener that is at least 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, or 0.5% up to 0.9%, 1.0%, 1.5%, or 2% by weight of the eyebrow primer, including all combinations and sub-ranges thereof. In some embodiments, the total amount of polyacrylamide thickener is greater than 0.5% by weight and less than 1.0% by weight of the eyebrow primer. Water-dispersed latex polymer
[0044] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include a water-dispersed latex polymer.
[0045] In some embodiments, the water-dispersed latex polymer is a polyacrylate latex polymer or copolymer thereof.
[0046] Non-limiting examples include ethylhexyl acrylate / hema copolymer (and) acrylates / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer (Syntran® PC 5775), styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer (Syntran® 5760, Syntran® 5009, Syntran® PC5620), polyacrylate-21 (and) acrylates / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Syntran® PC5100, Syntran® PC5776, Eudragit E 100, Jurymer ET-410C), styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer (Syntran® 5009 CG), olefin / acrylate graft polymer (and) sodium laureth sulfate (and C12-15 SEC-pareth 15 (Syntran® EX108), acrylate copolymer (Aculyn® 33A Polymer, Avalure® Ace 210 / 120 / 315 Acrylic Copolymer, Carbopol Aqua SF-1® Polymer, Daitosol® 500 AD, Coatex® Co 633, Eliclear® 380 / 700 / 4U, Eudragit® L 100, Joncryl® 85, Luviflex® Soft), acrylates / ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer (Daitosol® 5000SJ, Daitosol® 4000SJT, MJA PS34-21, SDP-001).Syntran® polymers are commercially available from the supplier Interpolymer Corp.
[0047] In some embodiments, the latex polymer may be an acrylate latex polymer, particularly styrene / acrylate copolymers. Non-limiting examples of commercially available styrene / acrylate copolymers include, but are not limited to, DAITOSOL 5000 STY sold by Kobo Products, Inc.; JONCRYL® 77 sold by BASF; NEOCRYL BT-62 sold by Neoresins, Inc.; RHOPLEX™ P-376 and UCAR™ DL 432S sold by Dow Chemical Company; and YODOSOL GH41 and YODOSOL GH840 sold by AkzoNobel.
[0048] In some embodiments, the latex polymer is an anionic or bimodal acrylate latex polymer, such as Polyacrylate-15, Polyacrylate-21, Polyacrylate-17, Polyacrylate-18, Polyacrylate-19, a branched anionic acrylate copolymer Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer, Acrylates Crosspolymer-3, Polyacrylate-14, and those sold under the SYNTRAN range as commercially available from Interpolymer such as Acrylates Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer and Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer.
[0049] In some embodiments, the latex polymer is a polyurethane, such as polyurethane-1 or polyurethane-34.
[0050] In some embodiments, the total solids content of the latex (e.g., the total amount of latex polymer dispersed in water) is at least 2% by weight of the eyebrow primer. In some embodiments, the total amount of latex polymer dispersed in water is at least 2%, 2.1%, 2.2% or 2.3% up to 2.8%, 2.9% or 3.0% by weight of the eyebrow primer, including all combinations and sub-ranges thereof. Water-soluble polymer
[0051] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include a water-soluble polymer. In some embodiments, the water-soluble polymer may be a film-forming polymer.
[0052] In this document, the term "water-soluble polymer" is intended to denote a polymer which, when introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1%, gives a macroscopically homogeneous solution whose light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, is at least 10%.
[0053] By "film-forming polymer" is meant here a polymer capable, by itself or in the presence of a film-forming auxiliary agent, of forming a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and better still a deposit whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolated and handled individually, for example when said deposit is prepared by pouring onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.
[0054] In some embodiments, a film-forming water-soluble polymer may include a hydrophilic (poly)vinylpyrrolidone (PVP) polymer.
[0055] In some embodiments, the hydrophilic polymer (poly)vinylpyrrolidone) may be linear.
[0056] In some embodiments, the hydrophilic (poly)vinylpyrrolidone polymer may be selected from random polymers, block copolymers, and a mixture thereof. As used herein, the term "block copolymer" is intended to mean a polymer comprising at least two different blocks, and preferably at least three different blocks.
[0057] In certain embodiments, the hydrophilic polymer (poly)vinylpyrrolidone may be chosen from: homopolymers of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone; (poly)vinylpyrrolidone / (poly)vinyl acetate copolymers, esters; (poly)vinylpyrrolidone / (meth)acrylic copolymers, their salts; and their mixture.
[0058] As homopolymers of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone, mention may be made, for example, of polyvinylpyrrolidone (2500 g / mol) sold under the trade name Kollidon 17 PF by the company BASF, polyvinylpyrrolidone sold under the trade name Luviskol K 30 Powder by the company BASF or sold under the trade name PVP K 30L by the company ISP (Ashland), and polyvinylpyrrolidone sold under the trade name PVP K 90 by the company ISP (Ashland). Examples of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone / (poly)vinyl acetate copolymers include the vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer (60 / 40) sold under the trade name Luviskol VA 64 Powder by BASF.
[0059] In some embodiments, the suitable hydrophilic (poly)vinylpyrrolidone polymer may have a weight average molecular weight, Mw, ranging from 1500 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0060] In some embodiments, the total solids content of the hydrophilic (poly)vinylpyrrolidone polymer (e.g., the total amount of the water-soluble polymer itself) is at least 3% by weight of the eyebrow primer. In some embodiments, the total solids content of the hydrophilic water-(poly)vinylpyrrolidone polymer (e.g., the total amount of the water-soluble polymer itself) is less than 5% by weight of the eyebrow primer. Polyhydric alcohols
[0061] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include one or more polyhydric alcohols.
[0062] In some embodiments, the polyhydric alcohols may comprise or consist of triols and diols.
[0063] In some embodiments, the polyhydric alcohols may include one or more C3-C6 polyhydric alcohols. The C3-C6 polyhydric alcohols may include glycerol (also referred to as glycerin), propylene glycol, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the C3-C6 polyhydric alcohols may consist of glycerin and a plurality of glycols, such as glycols selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol. In some embodiments, the total amount of glycerin is greater than the total amount of glycols. In some embodiments, the ratio of total glycerin to total glycols is 1.5:1 to 2:1.
[0064] In some embodiments, the polyhydric alcohols may include a C7-C12 polyhydric alcohol, such as caprylyl glycol.
[0065] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include one, or at least one, C7-C12 polyhydric alcohol, and a plurality of C3-C6 polyhydric alcohols.
[0066] In some embodiments, the total amount of polyhydric alcohol is at least 2%, 2.5% or 3%, up to 12%, 13%, 14% or 15% by weight of the eyebrow primer, including all combinations and sub-ranges thereof. In some embodiments, the total amount of C3-C6 polyhydric alcohol is at least 7%, 8% or 9%, up to 11%, 12% or 13% by weight of the eyebrow primer, including all combinations and sub-ranges thereof. In some embodiments, the total amount of glycerin is at least 4%, 5% or 5%, up to 8%, 9% or 10% by weight of the eyebrow primer, including all combinations and sub-ranges thereof. In some embodiments, the total amount of glycols is at least 1%, 2% or 3%, up to 4%, 5% or 6% by weight of the eyebrow primer, including all combinations and sub-ranges thereof. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be substantially free of C7-C12 polyhydric alcohols. Additional surfactants or co-emulsifiers
[0067] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include one or more additional surfactants or co-emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the one or more additional surfactants or co-emulsifiers are not high HLB surfactants. In some embodiments, the additional surfactant may be a low HLB surfactant. As used herein, the term "low HLB surfactant" is intended to include any surfactant with a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of less than 9.
[0068] In some embodiments, the additional surfactant or co-emulsifier may include a non-ionic surfactant, such as a glyceryl fatty ester or a sorbitan fatty ester.
[0069] In some embodiments, the additional surfactant or co-emulsifier may include a glyceryl fatty ester. Non-limiting examples of glyceryl esters include: glyceryl caprate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl capromyristate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl mono / dicaprylate, glyceryl mono / dimyristate, glyceryl stearate palmitate, glyceryl tricaprate / caprylate, caprylic / capric diglyceryl succinate, caprylic / capric glycerides, caprylic / capric / isostearic / adipic triglycerides, caprylic / capric / linoleic triglycerides, triglycerides caprylic / capric triglycerides, caprylic / capric / stearic triglycerides, glyceryl trilaurate / stearate, glyceryl trialmito stearate, glyceryl tritristearate, caprylic triglyceride, caprylic / capric / lauric triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl trioleate, glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl tris-12-hydroxy stearate, glyceryl triacetyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinioleate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tribehenate, and mixtures thereof.
[0070] In some embodiments, the additional surfactant or co-emulsifier may include a sorbitan ester. In some embodiments, the sorbitan ester may include sorbitan oleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, or combinations thereof.
[0071] In some embodiments, the additional surfactant or co-emulsifier may include alcohol ethoxylate phosphate esters. In some embodiments, the alcohol ethoxylate phosphate esters may include trideceth-6 phosphate. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free or substantially free of alcohol ethoxylate phosphate esters.
[0072] In some embodiments, the additional surfactant or co-emulsifier may include one or more anionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, acyl isethionates, acyl glycinates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and a mixture thereof, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups of all of these compounds comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. In some embodiments, the anionic surfactant may be sodium laureth sulfate. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free, or substantially free, of sulfates. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free, or substantially free, of anionic surfactants.
[0073] In some embodiments, the total amount of additional surfactants or coemulsifiers is at least 0.5%, 1%, 1.5% or 2% up to 3%, 3.5%, 4% or 5% by weight of the eyebrow primer, including all combinations and sub-ranges thereof. In some embodiments, the one or more additional surfactants or coemulsifiers are present in a total amount of between 1% and 3% by weight of the eyebrow primer. Water-soluble humectant or solvent
[0074] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include a water-soluble humectant, a water-soluble solvent, or both.
[0075] In some embodiments, the water-soluble solvent may be selected from lower alkyl alcohols and may be selected according to the desired skin sensation to be delivered, and / or to deliver certain beneficial agents to the skin. In some embodiments, the lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol.
[0076] In some embodiments, the water-soluble humectant may include a sugar (such as trehalose, maltose, glucose, or fructose), urea, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium adenosine phosphate, sodium lactate, pyrrolidone carbonate, cyclodextrin, or a combination thereof.
[0077] In some embodiments, the water-soluble humectant may include alkoxylated nonionic polymers such as polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a molecular weight of up to about 1000 such as those with CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, and mixtures thereof.
[0078] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free or substantially free of humectants or water-soluble solvents. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include from about 1% to about 20% of a humectant and / or a water-soluble solvent. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer of the invention further comprises a humectant or water-soluble solvent in a total amount of from 7% to 13% by weight. In some embodiments, the humectant and / or water-soluble solvent may be present in a total amount of from 5% to 10% by weight. Chelating agents and preservatives
[0079] In some embodiments, the eyebrow filler may include one or more chelating and / or preservative agents.
[0080] In some embodiments, the eyebrow filler may include a chelating agent. In some embodiments, the chelating agent may include ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) or a salt thereof. In some embodiments, the chelating agent may be disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, or tetrasodium EDTA.
[0081] In some embodiments, the eyebrow filler may include a preservative. Non-limiting examples of preservatives include benzoic acid and its alkali metal and ammonium salts (e.g., sodium benzoate), sorbic acid and its alkali metal and ammonium salts (e.g., potassium sorbate), p-anisic acid and its alkali metal and ammonium salts, and salicylic acid and its alkali metal and ammonium salts. Other non-limiting examples of preservatives include ethanol, polyvinyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sodium benzoate, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, or a combination thereof. Oil
[0082] The eyebrow primer may include at least one oil.
[0083] As used herein, the term "oil" refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure. The disclosed oils need not fall into any of the other categories of materials described herein. In some embodiments, the at least one oil may include a non-volatile oil, a volatile oil, or a combination thereof.
[0084] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include less than 5%, 4%, 3%, or 2% oils. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be substantially free of oils.
[0085] As used herein, the term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain hydroxy, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
[0086] In this document, the expression "non-volatile oil" means an oil whose vapor pressure is less than 0.13 Pa.
[0087] In this document, the term "silicone oil" designates an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0088] In this document, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or a non-aqueous medium) which can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[0089] Non-volatile oil
[0090] In some embodiments, the non-volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or a mixture thereof.
[0091] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may include:
[0092] hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of glycerol fatty acid esters, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C28, these fatty acids being able to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, oil rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and rosehip oil; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Sasol;
[0093] synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0094] linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin other than the polymers according to the invention, such as petroleum jelly, polybutenes, polydecenes and squalane, and mixtures thereof;
[0095] synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which RI represents the linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1+R2 10, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isonyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, hydroxylated esters such as isostearate lactate and malate diisostearyl; and pentaerythritol esters;
[0096] fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; and
[0097] higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] Non-limiting examples of suitable non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendant and / or at the end of a silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0099] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free, or substantially free, of non-volatile oil.
[0100] Volatile oil
[0101] The eyebrow primer may include at least one volatile oil.
[0102] In some embodiments, the volatile oil may be hydrocarbon-based. In some embodiments, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0103] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include one or more volatile branched alkanes. In some embodiments, the volatile hydrocarbon oil containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms may include C8-C16 branched alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C8-C16 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is selected from isododecane, isodecane, and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and is particularly isododecane.
[0104] The eyebrow primer may contain one or more volatile linear alkanes. In some embodiments, a volatile linear alkane may be liquid at room temperature (about 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). In some embodiments, the volatile linear alkane may include a cosmetic linear alkane, which is capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), which is liquid at room temperature, particularly having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm2 / min, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0105] In certain embodiments, the linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, may include from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
[0106] Non-limiting examples of linear alkanes include n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of patent application WO 2008 / 155 059 by the company Cognis. Also of interest are n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, respectively, as well as their mixtures.
[0107] In some embodiments, the linear alkane may be used alone or as a mixture of at least two distinct alkanes that differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, and in particular a mixture of at least two linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms that differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of linear alkanes volatile C11 / C13 or a mixture of linear C12 / C14 alkanes, in particular an n-undecane / n-tetradecane mixture.
[0108] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include at least one volatile silicone oil or solvent that is compatible with cosmetic use.
[0109] Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include cyclic polysiloxanes and linear polysiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Volatile linear polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Volatile cyclic polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
[0110] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free, or substantially free, of volatile oil. Acid thickener
[0111] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free of an acid thickener. As used herein, the term "acid thickener" refers to acid-based thickening agents that require neutralization to provide the desired thickening property. Non-limiting examples of such acid thickeners include polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; the most preferred copolymers according to the present invention are acrylate / C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TRI, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol ETD 2020, and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2. Other clays
[0112] Talc is a clay mineral. However, in some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free of other clays. In some embodiments, the other clays may include lipophilic and / or hydrophilic clays.
[0113] The term "hydrophilic clay" designates a clay capable of swelling in water; this clay swells in water and forms a colloidal dispersion after hydration.
[0114] These clays are products already well known in themselves, which are described, for example, in the work "Minéralogie des argiles", S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included in the present document for reference. Clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and their mixtures. Examples of such products that may be cited include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, but also of the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite family.
[0115] These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Hydrophilic clays that may be cited include kaolinite; smectite products such as saponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites and beidellites; synthetic hectorites (also called laponites), for example the products marketed by the company Laporte under the names Laponite XLG, Laponite RD and Laponite RDS (these products are sodium magnesium silicates and in particular sodium lithium magnesium silicates); bentonites, for example the product sold under the name Bentone HC by the company Rheox; magnesium aluminium silicates, in particular hydrated, for example the products sold by the company Vanderbilt under the names Veegum Ultra, Veegum HS and Veegum DGT, or calcium silicates, and in particular the product in synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-cel C.
[0116] The term "lipophilic clay" designates a clay capable of swelling in a lipophilic medium; this clay swells in the medium and thus forms a colloidal dispersion.
[0117] Examples of lipophilic clays that may be cited include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel VS38 from Rheox), and hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride modified hectorite (CTFA name: disteardimonium hectorite) sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox or Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis. Pigments and other colorants
[0118] In some embodiments, the composition may include a colorant. In some embodiments, the colorant may be a pigment, a pearlescent agent, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the composition may advantageously comprise at least one colorant selected from pigments and / or pearlescent agents.
[0119] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include less than 5%, 4%, 3%, or 2% colorant. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free, or substantially free, of colorant.
[0120] In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may include less than 5%, 4%, 3%, or 2% pigment. In some embodiments, the eyebrow primer may be free, or substantially free, of pigment.
[0121] Pigments
[0122] As used herein, the term "pigment" refers to white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles which are insoluble in the lipophilic phase(s) and which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposited layer produced with the composition.
[0123] The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).
[0124] The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, in particular monochromatic pigments, organic lakes, pearlescent agents and goniochromatic pigments.
[0125] If the composition comprises them, their content varies from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5% to 12% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0126] The mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders, such as aluminum or copper powders, and mixtures thereof.
[0127] Organic lakes are organic pigments, formed from a dye fixed to a substrate. Lakes, also called organic pigments, can be chosen from the materials below and their mixtures:
[0128] cochineal carmine;
[0129] organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluorane dyes.
[0130] Mention may in particular be made, among the organic pigments, of those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 or FD&C Yellow No. 6;
[0131] the organic lakes may be insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium or titanium of acid dyes, such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane or fluorane, these dyes being able to comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.
[0132] Organic lakes may also be supported by an organic carrier, such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example.
[0133] Among the organic lakes, mention may in particular be made of those known under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 3 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 4 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 barium / strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 strontium lake, D&C Red No. 7 potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 7 barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 calcium / strontium lake, D&C Red No. 8 zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 sodium lake. 19, zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 21 aluminum lake, zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 27 aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 27 aluminum / titanium / zirconium lake, D&C barium lake Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 27 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 28 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. Aluminum Lake30, D&C Red No. 31 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 33 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 34 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 36 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, D&C Green No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 10 Zirconium Lake, D&C Orange No. 17 Aluminum Lake, Barium Lake, D&C Yellow No. 5, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow Aluminum Lake No. 10, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lacquer, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lacquer, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lacquer, FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lacquer or FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lacquer.
[0134] Mention may also be made of fat-soluble dyes, such as, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 or quinoline yellow.
[0135] The chemical substances corresponding to each of the organic colorants cited above are mentioned in the publication "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 1997 edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association.
[0136] The pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.
[0137] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones, such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metallic soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, poly(hexafluoropropylene oxide), polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups and amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
[0138] The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. Salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
[0139] The term "alkyl" cited in the aforementioned compounds designates in particular an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably comprising from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0140] Hydrophobic treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1 086 683.
[0141] Pearlescent agents
[0142] As used herein, the term "pearlizing agent" refers to colored particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, and which may be of natural or synthetic origin, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
[0143] Examples of pearlescent agents that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments, such as mica coated with titanium oxide covered with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with titanium oxide covered with chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium oxide covered with an organic dye, in particular of the aforementioned type, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0144] It may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants are superimposed.
[0145] The pearlescent agents may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.
[0146] By way of illustration of the pearlescent agents which can be introduced as interference pigment in the first composition, mention may be made of the gold-colored pearlescent agents sold in particular by BASF under the name Brilliant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); the orange pearlescent agents sold in particular by BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and by Merck under the names Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown pearlescent agents sold in particular by BASF under the names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chroma-lite); copper-toned pearlescent agents sold in particular by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); red-toned pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-toned pearlescent agents sold in particular by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chroma-lite); red-toned pearlescent agents with a gold tint sold in particular by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink pearlescent agents sold in particular by BASF under the name Tan Opal G005 (Gemtone); black pearlescent agents with golden highlights sold in particular by BASF under the name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna);the white pearlescent agents with silver reflections sold in particular by Merck under the name Xirona Silver; and the pinkish-orange green-gold pearlescent agents sold in particular by Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona); and their mixtures.
[0147] Goniochromatic pigments
[0148] In this document, the term "goniochromatic pigment" designates a pigment which makes it possible to obtain, when the composition is spread on a substrate, a chromatic distance in the a*b* plane of the CIE 1976 colorimetric space which corresponds to a variation Dh° of the hue angle h° of at least 20° when the observation angle varies with respect to the normal between 0° and 80°, for an angle of incidence of the light of 45°.
[0149] The colorimetric distance can be measured, for example, using a spectrogonioreflectometer of the Instrument Systems brand and with the reference GON 360 Goniometer, after the composition has been spread in the fluid state with a thickness of 300 qm using an automatic spreader on a contrast card of the Erichsen brand and with the reference Type 24 / 5, the measurement being carried out on the black context of the card.
[0150] The goniochromatic pigment may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.
[0151] In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer being made, for example, from at least one material chosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, A12O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.
[0152] The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, a symmetry relative to the chemical nature of the stacked layers.
[0153] Different effects are obtained depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers.
[0154] Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures are, for example, the following structures: Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, a pigment having this structure being sold under the name Sicopearl by BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by Merck.
[0155] Liquid crystal coloring agents include, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. Examples of liquid crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used are those sold by Chenix and those sold under the name Helicone® HC by Wacker.
[0156] It is also possible to use, as goniochromatic pigment, certain pearlescent agents, pigments with effects on a synthetic substrate, in particular a substrate of the alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide or aluminum type, or interference flakes resulting from a polyethylene terephthalate film.
[0157] In particular, as non-limiting examples of goniochromatic pigments, alone or in a mixture, mention may be made of the goniochromatic pigments SunShine® sold by Sun Chemical, Cosmicolor Celeste® from Toyo Aluminum KK, Xirona® from Merck and Reflecks Multidimensions® from BASF.
[0158] Dyes
[0159] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more dyes.
[0160] Among the liposoluble dyes, mention may be made in particular of fluoran dyes such as, for example, Sudan red, FDC Red 4, DC Red 17, Red 21, Red 27, DC Green 6, Sudan brown, Yellow 10, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 4, DC Orange 5, Quinoline yellow, or mixtures thereof.
[0161] Also disclosed is a method for priming and / or styling eyebrows. The method may include first applying an embodiment of an eyebrow primer as disclosed herein to an eyebrow, and then applying an eyebrow makeup composition over the eyebrow primer. In some embodiments, the eyebrow makeup composition is a composition for an eyebrow pencil. In some embodiments, the eyebrow makeup composition is a powder. In some embodiments, the eyebrow makeup composition is a warm pour applied with a brush. Examples
[0162] The exemplary formulas shown in Table 1, below, were produced by combining the necessary materials, heating them to about 70-75°C, mixing them until homogeneous, and cooling them to room temperature.
[0163] [Tables 1] Material Ex 1 Ex2 Water 60-65 60-65 Transparent filler 8.0-10.0 8.0-10.0 High HLB surfactants 6.0-8.0 6.0-8.0 Polyacrylamide thickener (acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer) 0.5-0.99 0.5-0.99 Latex polymer (styrene / acrylates / ammonium methacrylate copolymer) 2.0-3.0 - Latex polymer (Polyacrylate-21) - 2.0-3.0 water-soluble polymer 3-3.5 3-3.5 Polyhydric alcohol (Glycerin) 6.0-8.0 6.0-8.0 Polyhydric alcohol (Glycols) 3-3.5 3-3.5 Additional surfactant (low HLB nonionic surfactants) 1.0-2.0 1.0-2.0 Additional surfactant (anionic surfactant) 0.001-0.1 0.001-0.1 Chelating agent 0.001-0.1 0.001-0.1 Preservative 0.5-0.89 0.5-0.89 Oil 0.25-0.75 0.25-0.75
[0164] (Exemplary formulas, with two different latex polymers)
[0165] The products were reviewed by a panel of experts, using in vivo testing and subjective analysis, and compared to a competing, commercially available eyebrow gel product. The products were first examined for a series of application and product-related features, with each feature rated on a scale of 0 to 100%. Two features were applicator depositing a large amount of product, and applicator depositing too much product. Here, the exemplary formula scored statistically significantly lower for both (5% exemplary vs. 57% competitor for high deposition, and 0% exemplary vs. 48% competitor for too much product deposition), indicating a surprisingly more controlled user application experience. The exemplary formula was also compared for its visibility on the brows and, again, the exemplary formula scored statistically significantly lower (20% exemplary vs. 56% competitor), indicating that, surprisingly, the exemplary formulas are much less visible on the brows.
[0166] The products were then examined for a series of features related to the appearance and feel of the eyebrows immediately after application. Two features were considered: whether the product gave the eyebrows a bushy appearance or a flattened appearance. Here, the exemplary formula gave a statistically significant lower score for both (0% exemplary vs. 22% competitor for bushiness, 10% exemplary vs. 45% competitor for flattened appearance), indicating a surprisingly more aesthetic appearance.
[0167] Finally, the products were examined for a series of features related to the appearance and feel of the eyebrows 8 hours after application. One feature considered was whether the product gave the impression that the eyebrows were flattened. Here, the exemplary formula gave a statistically significant lower score (10% exemplary vs. 40% competitor for flattened), indicating a more aesthetic appearance even after 8 hours of use.
[0168] Those skilled in the art will recognize or be able to establish, by simple routine experimentation, numerous equivalents to the specific embodiments of the invention described herein. Such equivalents are intended to be encompassed by the following claims.
Claims
Claims
1. An eyebrow primer, comprising: between 5% and 10% by weight of talc; a polyacrylamide thickener; at least 2% by weight of one or more high HLB surfactants, the one or more high HLB surfactants comprising ceteareth-25; and at least 2% by weight of a water-dispersed latex polymer; at least 3% by weight of a water-soluble polymer; wherein the eyebrow primer is substantially free of oils.
2. The eyebrow primer of claim 1, wherein the polyacrylamide thickener is present in an amount of at least 0.5% by weight.
3. An eyebrow primer according to any preceding claim, further comprising a water-soluble humectant or solvent in a total amount of 7% to 13% by weight.
4. An eyebrow primer according to any preceding claim, wherein the eyebrow primer is free of pigments.
5. A method for priming eyebrows, comprising: applying an eyebrow primer according to any preceding claim to an eyebrow; and applying an eyebrow makeup composition over the eyebrow primer.