COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP OF KERATIN MATERIALS

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP OF KERATIN MATERIALS The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids; (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; (iii) at least one surfactant other than C14-C22 saturated fatty acids; (iv) at least one moisturizing agent optionally chosen from acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts and (v) relative to the total weight, at least 12% by weight of at least one C-glycoside. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising the application of said composition to the keratin materials. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP OF KERATIN MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials. RELATED ART

[0002] The skin is the protective barrier of the human body. It protects the inside of the body from physical injuries (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi).

[0003] The development of formulas dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips is ongoing.

[0004] For example, efforts have been made to formulate compositions in the form of creams or emulsions.

[0005] As a commercial product, it is desirable that the product be stable at room temperature and even at high temperature, for example above 55°C.

[0006] It is common to incorporate moisturizing agents into cosmetic products, which are in particular hygroscopic substances that cause rehydration of the skin by capturing atmospheric water and retaining water in the skin.

[0007] Hyaluronic acid (HA) and its salts are commonly used as moisturizing agents in cosmetic products.

[0008] However, for some emulsions such as water-in-oil emulsions or oil-in-water emulsions comprising hyaluronic acid or salts thereof, phase separation occurs easily with leakage of water or oil.

[0009] It is therefore necessary to formulate a composition for the care and / or makeup of the skin, which comprises at least one moisturizing agent, which is stable at room temperature (for example 25°C immediately after being prepared and at a relatively high temperature, for example 55°C. Summary of the invention

[0010] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions which remain stable at room temperature (for example, 25°C) immediately after their preparation and at a relatively high temperature, for example 55°C, for at least one week.

[0011] Therefore, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a com-

[0012]

[0013]

[0014]

[0015]

[0016]

[0017] position in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for care and / or makeup of keratin materials, including: (i) at least one structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids; (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; (iii) at least one surfactant other than C14-C22 saturated fatty acids; (iv) at least one moisturizing agent optionally selected from acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts and (v) relative to the total weight, at least 12% by weight of at least one C-glycoside selected from the compounds of formula (I): X—R (I)

[0018] in which:

[0019] - R represents a saturated C 1 to C 10 alkyl radical, in particular C 1 to C 4 which can optionally be replaced by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR" 2, R"2 being a saturated CrC4 alkyl radical

[0020] - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more protected amine functional groups and

[0021] - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, - CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

[0022] the S-CH2-X bond represents an anomeric C bond, which can be a or [3,

[0023] as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

[0024] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Thus, said composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase.

[0025] The inventors have found that the composition of the present invention has a lamellar texture and is stable at room temperature (e.g., 25°C) immediately after its preparation and at a relatively high temperature, e.g., 55°C for at least one week.

[0026] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials. Unique.

[0027] Other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Brief description of the drawings

[0028] Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawing in which:

[0029] [Fig-1] [Fig.l] represents the polarized optical microscopy image of the com position obtained in inventive example 1. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0030] Unless otherwise indicated, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.

[0031] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0032] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0033] Throughout the present application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional and unspecified features. As used herein, the term "comprising" also refers to the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. "consisting of").

[0034] Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about". Therefore, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which may be modified depending on the intended purpose, if necessary.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is particularly taken into consideration according to the present invention.

[0036] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise indicated, to a weight percentage.

[0037] According to the first aspect, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising:

[0038] (i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated fatty acids in C14-C22;

[0039] (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0040] (iii) at least one surfactant other than C14-C22 saturated fatty acids;

[0041] (iv) at least one moisturizing agent optionally chosen from acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts and

[0042] (v) relative to the total weight, at least 12% by weight of at least one C-glycoside. Structuring agents

[0043] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids.

[0044] Examples of C14-C22 saturated fatty acids include myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, heptadenoic acid, stearic acid, cetearyl acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid and a combination thereof.

[0045] Preferably, the structuring agent is selected from C14-C18 saturated fatty acids.

[0046] Preferably, the structuring agent is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

[0047] Particularly preferably, the structuring agent is chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a combination of these.

[0048] Advantageously, the structuring agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, better still from 1.3% by weight to 10% by weight, even better still from 1.3% by weight to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0049] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0050] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is capable of swelling in water to form a microgel in the form of particles with a size of 50-400 qm.

[0051] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof.

[0052] The homopolymer suitable for use in the composition according to the invention is chosen in particular from sodium polyacrylates and potassium polyacrylates. Sodium polyacrylate is preferably used.

[0053] The acrylic acid homopolymer may advantageously be neutralized to a degree of between 5% and 80%.

[0054] As sodium polyacrylate which can be used according to the invention, use may be made of those marketed under the names Cosmedia SPL® by the company Cognis, or Luvigel®EM marketed by the company BASF, the product marketed by the company Sensient under the commercial reference Covacryl MV 60® or under the commercial name Cosmedia® by Cognis.

[0055] The modified starches that can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen in particular from those derived from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Among the modified starches, mention may be made of precooked starches, hydrolyzed starches, crosslinked starches, for example with a methylolurea derivative or with octenylsuccinic anhydride or with epichlorohydrin, esterified starches, etherified starches, oxidized starches, refined starches, starches roasted in the presence of an acid, or grafted starches, for example grafted with sodium polyacrylates, coated starches, for example coated with amino acids, and / or their derivatives.

[0057] Among the modified starches particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of:

[0058] - those marketed under the names Structure XL and Structure Zea (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) by the National Starch company;

[0059] - starches marketed under the names Sanfresh ST-100C, ST100MC, IM- 300MC (INCI name sodium polyacrylate starch) by Sanyo Chemical Industries and

[0060] - mixtures of these.

[0061] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from sodium polyacrylates, potassium polyacrylates, sodium polyacrylate starch, sodium polyacrylate starch and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% by weight to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants

[0063] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant other than C14-C22 saturated fatty acids.

[0064] Preferably, the surfactant is selected from

[0065] - mono and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid or of their ethoxylated derivatives;

[0066] - polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids;

[0067] - sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives;

[0068] - esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose or their ethoxylated derivatives;

[0069] - sucrose esters:

[0070] - ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside;

[0071] - C14-C24 fatty alcohols;

[0072] - polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as car- carboxylic Laureth-5;

[0073] - a polyoxyethylated fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as Laureth-9;

[0074] - a polyoxyalkylated derivative of monoglyceryl ester of a fatty acid such as PEG- 20 glyceryl triisostearate,

[0075] - sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate;

[0076] - a polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester and

[0077] - mixtures of these.

[0078] As polyglycerol esters (a) of fatty acid(s), mention should be made of the product containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, such as polyglyceryl monolaurate, oleate, myristate, caprylate or stearate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl dilaurate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl dimyristate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl trimyristate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl trioleate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units and polyglyceryl tricaprylate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units. glyceryl.

[0079] Polyglyceryl esters include polyglyceryl esters of saturated, unsaturated, and branched C16-C22 fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diistearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, or mixtures thereof.

[0080] Monoglyceric esters include, in particular, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of saturated, unsaturated and branched C16-C22 fatty acids, such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate or their derivatives.

[0081] As monoglyceric esters of fatty acids, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or its ri- glyceryl cinoleate or mixtures thereof, or, as polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, mention may be made of mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether), preferably polyethylethyl glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, tristearate and / or triisostearate). Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated derivative of monoglyceryl ester of fatty acids comprises 10 to 40 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

[0082] The surfactant may be chosen from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or polyoxyalkylated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, or better still from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as monoglyceryl esters or polyglyceryl esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid, polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably from 10 to 200, or better still from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid, or polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, preferably from 10 to 200, or more preferably from 10 to 100 hydroxyalkylene units;sugar esters (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and / or alkylglycose) of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid, or polyoxyalkylated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, or more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty alcohol, or mixtures thereof.;

[0083] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Croda, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0084] The sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives may be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and alkoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 20 to 100 EO, such as, for example, sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), marketed by ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), marketed by ICI under the name Span 40, or sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), marketed by ICI under the name Tween65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.

[0085] As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, mention may be made of glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, methylglucoside diester of oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), methyl glucoside mixed ester and oleic acid / hystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxy stearate), methylglucoside ester of isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), methyl glucoside ester of lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquiisostearate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquistearate),and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL, and their mixtures.

[0086] As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, mention may be made, for example, of ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose and, in particular, the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, or their mixtures.

[0087] Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned are sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

[0088] As sugar ethers, alkylpolyglucosides may be used, and examples include ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols including a decyl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLATAREN 2000 by Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, lauryl glucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside,For example , in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic or mixtures of the latter.

[0089] As C14-C24 fatty alcohols, mention may be made of oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, li-gnoceryl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Preferably, the polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is a polyethylene glycol ester comprising from 1 to 200 oxyethylene groups and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably, the polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is selected from polyethylene glycol 2 EO monostearate or polyethylene glycol 100 monostearate (PEG-100 stearate).

[0091] Preferably, the surfactant is selected from mono- and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid, ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, C14-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Advantageously, the surfactant is selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Advantageously, the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 15% by weight, better still from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Moisturizing agents

[0094] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one moisturizing agent chosen from optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts.

[0095] Hyaluronic acid is a linear, non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.

[0096] Acetylated hyaluronic acid in the present invention refers to a derivative in which the hydroxyl groups of hyaluronic acid have been at least partially acetylated.

[0097] Acetylated hyaluronic acid may be manufactured by any method known to those skilled in the art, for example, by reference to JPH 0853501; or is commercially available, for example, under the name HymagicTM from Bloomage Bio-technology Corporation Limited.

[0098] Optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid salts may be selected from alkali salts such as sodium and potassium salts or other salts, for example, zinc salts, silver salts and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Thus, according to certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one moisturizing agent optionally selected from acetylated hyaluronic acid, the sodium, potassium, zinc and silver salts thereof.

[0100] Preferably, the moisturizing agent optionally selected from acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salts is one or more high molecular weight (HMW) hyaluronic acid(s) or optionally a low molecular weight (LMW) acetylated hyaluronic acid or salts thereof.

[0101] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "optionally LMW acetylated hyaluronic acid" or its salts means an acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salts having an average molecular weight less than or equal to 60,000 Daltons.

[0102] In particular, the optionally LMW acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salts has an average molecular weight of less than or equal to 60,000 Daltons, preferably less than or equal to 50,000 Daltons, for example from 10,000 to 60,000 Daltons, preferably from 15,000 to 50,000 Daltons, more particularly from 20,000 to 50,000 Daltons.

[0103] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises sodium hyaluronate, as marketed by GIVAUDA under the trade name RENOVHYAL.

[0104] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid HMW" or its salts has an average molecular weight of 80,000 to 1,500,000 Daltons or 100,000 Daltons to 1,000,000 Daltons.

[0105] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises SODIUM HYALURONATE, as marketed by BLOOMAGE FREDA BIOPHARM under the trade name SODIUM HYALURONATE (HA-T).

[0106] According to the present invention, the useful acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salts has an average molecular weight of 10,000 to 1,000,000 Daltons, preferably 20,000 to 50,000 Daltons, or preferably 30,000 to 50,000 Daltons. Advantageously, the acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof has a substitution number of the acetyl group of between 2.5 and 4.0.

[0107] According to certain embodiments of the invention, acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof is used in combination with hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.

[0108] The optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid and / or a salt thereof is introduced into an aqueous phase of the composition.

[0109] Preferably, the moisturizing agent is present in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 5% by weight, better still between 0.001% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C-glycosides

[0110] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside selected from the components of formula (I): [YES] X—R (I) ç— /

[0112] in which:

[0113] - R represents a saturated C 1 to C 10 alkyl radical, in particular C 1 to C 4 which can optionally be replaced by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR" 2, R"2 being a saturated CrC4 alkyl radical

[0114] - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more protected amine functional groups and

[0115] - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, - CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

[0116] the S-CH2-X bond represents an anomeric C bond, which can be a or [3,

[0117] as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

[0118] The C-glycosides used for implementing the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear alkyl radical of C1 to C6, in particular of C1 to C4, preferably of C1 to C2 and better still, a methyl radical.

[0119] Among the alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention, mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl groups.

[0120] According to one embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R moreover retaining all the definitions above.

[0121] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention may be selected from the following elements: D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates the following elements: D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.

[0122] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units may be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which may advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xy-lotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, composed of two xylose molecules linked by a 1-4 bond.

[0123] More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.

[0124] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula I is used for which:

[0125] - R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical, in Cr C4c in particular a Cr-C2 alkyl radical, in particular a methyl radical;

[0126] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and selected in particular among D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

[0127] - X represents a group selected from a -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2) group and, preferably, a -CH(OH)- group.

[0128] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid. Also included are salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. Examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0129] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) may be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcoholic functional groups; mention may in particular be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.

[0130] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0131] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or in a mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.

[0132] A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02 / 051828.

[0133] Mention may in particular be made, by way of non-limiting illustration, of the C-glycoside compounds which are particularly suitable for the invention, of the following compounds:

[0134] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0135] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0136] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0137] - C-a- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0138] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0139] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0140] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0141] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0142] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0143] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0144] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0145] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0146] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0147] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0148] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0149] - l-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0150] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0151] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0152] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0153] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0154] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0155] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0156] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0157] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

[0158] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C- [3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.

[0159] According to a specific embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) provided as a solution containing 75% by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.

[0160] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 11 to 20% by weight, preferably from 12 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Saponifiers

[0161] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one saponifier.

[0162] The saponifier can be used to react with a C14-C22 saturated fatty acid to produce a salt.

[0163] The saponifier may be, for example, inorganic bases, such as alkali metal hydroxides (e.g., sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide), alkaline earth metal hydroxides (e.g., magnesium hydroxide) or ammonium hydroxide, or organic bases, for example, monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine and arginine.

[0164] Sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate and potassium bicarbonate may also be mentioned.

[0165] Preferably, the saponifier is chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine and a combination of these products.

[0166] Where appropriate, advantageously, the molar ratio between the saponifier and the structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids is between 15 and 50%. Aqueous phase

[0167] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

[0168] This aqueous phase comprises water.

[0169] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase comprises a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature of 25°C) such as glycerin and glycols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0170] Advantageously, said aqueous phase is present in an amount of between 30% and 95% by weight, preferably between 35% and 90% by weight, better still between 40% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fat phase

[0171] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one dispersed fatty phase.

[0172] This fatty phase comprises at least one oil.

[0173] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0174] In this document, the term "oil" means a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The expression "non-volatile oil" means an oil which can remain on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which has, in particular, a vapor pressure of less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil can also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm2.

[0175] These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0176] This oil can be selected from hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated oils.

[0177] The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly O and N atoms, and free of Si and F heteroatoms. This oil may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0178] The term “silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular Si-O groups.

[0179] The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0180] Preferably, the oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils, such as such as isohexadecane, squalane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isonyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, myristyl myristate, and silicone oils, such as dimethicone.

[0181] The fatty phase may also comprise a non-oily fatty substance, for example butters and waxes, such as shea butter, cera alba and beeswax, in order to create texture and provide a suitable skin finish.

[0182] Advantageously, the fatty phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 40% by weight. weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 35% by weight, and even more preferably from 7% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic active ingredients

[0183] The composition of the present invention may comprise one or more cosmetic active ingredients.

[0184] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and its derivatives; sunscreens; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; other moisturizing agents such as ethylurea, agents acting on microcirculation and mixtures thereof.

[0185] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0186] The composition of the present invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants or conventional additives, for example, perfumes, preservatives (for example, chlorophenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example, citric acid), thickeners such as xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] A person skilled in the art can choose the amount of conventional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0188] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0189] (i) from 1.3% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one selected structuring agent among linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids;

[0190] (ii) from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof;

[0191] (iii) from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from mono- and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid, ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, C14-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof;

[0192] (iv) from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one moisturizing agent chosen from optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts and

[0193] (iv) from 12% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one C-glycoside selected from C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and a combination thereof. Galenic form and method

[0194] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0195] The composition according to the present invention has a lamellar texture.

[0196] The term “lamellar” means a liquid crystalline structure or a hydrated, crystalline, swollen or non-swollen lamellar phase with planar symmetry, comprising several amphiphilic bilayers arranged in parallel and separated by a liquid medium.

[0197] The composition of the present invention may be, for example, cream.

[0198] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care and / or ma keratin materials, for example, it can be used as foundation cream, hand cream, body cream, etc.

[0199] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to keratin materials.

[0200] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being of a limiting nature. EXAMPLES

[0201] The main raw materials used, the trade names and the suppliers of these materials are listed in Table 1.

[0202] [Tables 1] Nom INCI Nom commercial Fournisseur GLYCERYL STEARATE (et) PEG-100 STEARATE ARLACEL™ 165 CRODA SODIUM POLYACRYLATE COVACRYL® MV60 SENSIENT STEARIC ACID PALMAC® 50-18 / MB IOI GROUP OLEO- CHEMICALS POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE LESSIVE DE POTASSE 50% QUARON ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (et) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (et) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE MONTANOV 202 SEPPIC CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE MASESTER E7000 LR01-1 / MB PT MUSIM MAS CERA ALBA CERABEIL LOR BAERLOCHER (CERESINE) BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER FAIR FOR LIFE REFINED SHEA BUTTER OLVEA ISONONYL ISO- NONANOATE ERCAREL ISN / O ERCA PENTAERYTHRITYL TE- TRAISOSTEARATE JOLEE7181 OLEON MYRISTYL MYRISTATE TEGOSOFT® MM EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT CHLORPHENESIN MACROCIDE-OL MACROCARE HYDROXYPROPYL TE- TRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL MEXORYL SCS CHIMEX (NOVEAU) BEESWAX CERABEIL LOR BAERLOCHER (CERESINE) XANTHAN GUM KELTROL® CG-T CP KELCO DIMÉTHICONE DOWSIL™ SH 200 Fluid 5 CST DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) SODIUM ACETYLATED HYALURONATE PRIMALHYAL™ UL- TRAFILLER GIVAUDAN SODIUM HYALURONATE RENOVHYAL LO SOLIANCE (GIVAUDAN)

[0203]

[0204] Invention Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 The compositions of inventive examples (EI) 1 to 4 and comparative examples (CE) 1 to 4 were prepared according to the quantities given in Tables 2 and 3. The quantity of each component is given in % by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0205] [Tables2] Phase INCI US EH EC1 EI2 EC2 EI3 EC3 A POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.28 0.28 WATER Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 GLYCERIN 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 CHLORPHENESIN 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 B STEARIC ACID 3.00 3.00 1.50 1.50 3.00 3.00 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE 1.60 1.60 0.80 0.80 1.60 1.60 BEESWAX 1.60 1.60 2.73 2.73 2.73 2.73 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 ISONONYL ISO- NONANOATE 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE 0.80 0.80 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 MYRISTYL MYRISTATE 0.60 0.60 1.23 1.23 1.23 1.23 Cl XANTHAN GUM 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 DIMETHICONE 1.50 1.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 SODIUM POLY-ACRYLATE 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 C2 SODIUM ACETYLATED HYALURONATE 0,13 0,13 0,13 0,13 0,13 0,13 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0,12 0,12 0,12 0,12 0,12 0,12 D HYDROXYPROPYL TE- TRAHYDROPYRANTRI OL* 20,00 - 20,00 - 20,00 -

[0206] [Tableaux3] Phase INCI US EL 4 EC. 4 A POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0,20 0,16 EAU Jusqu'à 100 Jusqu'à 100 GLYCERIN 7,00 7,00 CHLORPHENESIN 0,20 0,20 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,30 0,30 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 1,50 1,50 B STEARIC ACID 1,50 1,50 GLYCERYL STEARATE (et) PEG-100 STEARATE1’ 0,80 0,80 BEESWAX 2,40 2,40 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 3,10 3,10 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAL SOSTEARATE 0,40 0,40 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (et) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (et) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE2’ 2,00 2,00 MYRISTYL MYRISTATE 1,10 1,10 C XANTHAN GUM 0,25 0,25 DIMÉTHICONE 1,00 1,00 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0,80 0,80 SODIUM ACETYLATED HYA- LURONATE 0,002 0,002 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0,001 0,001 D TÉTRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL HY- DROXYPROPYL3’ 20,00 14,30

[0207] GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE: comprising 50% by weight of GLYCERYL STEARATE and 50% by weight of PEG-100 STEARATE.

[0208] ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE2': comprising 55% by weight of ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL, 30% by weight of BEHENYL ALCOHOL and 15% by weight of ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE.

[0209] HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL3' is a HY-DROXYPROPYL tetrahydropyrantriol in water and propylene glycol with a weight content of 70%, based on the total weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and water and propylene glycol.

[0210] The compositions of the invention examples E1 1-4 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0211] The compositions of Comparative Examples 1-3 do not comprise C-glycoside.

[0212] The composition of Comparative Example 4 comprises less than 12% by weight of C-glycoside, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] Preparation procedure:

[0214] The above compositions were prepared as follows, taking the composition of Invention Example 3 as an example.

[0215] 1. by weighing the ingredients of phase A into a container and mixing until obtaining a transparent mixture, then stirring at 75°C at a stirring speed of 500 rpm until a yellowish transparent liquid is obtained;

[0216] 2. by heating the phase B premix to 85°C, then adding it to the liquid yellowish transparent at 75°C at a stirring speed of 1500 rpm and mixing it for 10 minutes to obtain a white emulsion;

[0217] 3. by adding the premix of phase Cl at 75°C at a stirring speed of 1500 rpm. min to obtain a white emulsion;

[0218] 4. by adding phase C2 at 75°C at a stirring speed of 1500 rpm for obtain a white emulsion;

[0219] 5. adding phase E at 70°C at a stirring speed of 1500 rpm to obtain a fine white cream, then cooling to room temperature while stirring to obtain the composition. Assessment Lamellar texture

[0220] The formation of a lamellar texture was evaluated as follows.

[0221] The compositions were observed using a Leica DLMB microscope under 90° cross-polarized light and microscopic images were taken.

[0222] [Fig. 1] represents the polarized optical microscopy image of the composition obtained in inventive example 1.

[0223] Similar photos were also obtained for the compositions of the examples of invention 2-4 (EI.2-4).

[0224] It is observed that a lamellar texture is formed in the compositions of the invention examples 1-4 (El. 1-4).

[0225] Similar photographs were not obtained for the compositions of comparative examples l-3 (EC.l-3).

[0226] Similar photos were obtained for the composition of comparative example 4 (EC.4). Stability

[0227] Stability was assessed as follows:

[0228] The appearance of each composition prepared above was observed immediately after its preparation at room temperature (25°C) and during storage at 55°C for 1 week.

[0229] If water leaks at room temperature (25°C) immediately after preparing a composition, then the composition is not stable. If oil leaks during storage at 55°C for 1 week, the composition is not stable, and if there is only a slight oil leak, the composition has acceptable stability.

[0230] In the absence of water leakage at room temperature (25°C) immediately after its preparation and in the absence of oil leakage, and after storage at 55°C for 1 week, the composition exhibits excellent stability.

[0231] The results on the lamellar texture and stability of each composition prepared above were summarized in Table 4.

[0232] [Tables4] Lamellar texture Appearance Stability RT T0* 55^CT1W** ELI Yes Homogeneity Homogeneity Excellent EC. 1 No Water leakage NA Unstable EI.2 Yes Homogeneity Homogeneity Excellent EC. 2 No Water leakage NA Unstable EI.3 Yes Homogeneity Homogeneity Excellent EC. 3 No Water leakage NA Unstable EI.4 Yes Homogeneity Reduced oil leakage Acceptable EC.4 Yes Homogeneity Significant oil leakage Unstable

[0233] RT T0*: immediately after preparation of the composition to be tested.

[0234]

[0235]

[0236] 55°C TIW**: Store at 55°C for 1 week. NA: Not evaluated. Table 3 shows that the compositions of Invention Examples 1 to 4 have a lamellar texture and are stable.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion intended for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids; (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; (iii) at least one surfactant other than C14-C22 saturated fatty acids; (iv) at least one moisturizing agent optionally selected from acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts and (v) relative to the total weight, at least 12% by weight of at least one C-glycoside selected from the compounds of formula (I): X—R (I) S—' (D in which: - R represents a saturated C1 to C10 alkyl radical, in particular C1 to C4 which may optionally be replaced by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR" 2 R"2 being a saturated C1 -C4 alkyl radical, - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more protected amine functional groups and - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-, the S-CH2-X bond represents an anomeric C bond, which can be a or as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the structuring agent is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids, preferably the structuring agent is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a combination thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from sodium polyacrylates, potassium polyacrylates, sodium polyacrylate starch, sodium polyacrylate starch and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the surfactant is chosen from - mono- and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid or their ethoxylated derivatives; - polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids; - sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives; - esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose or their ethoxylated derivatives; - sucrose esters: - ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside; - C14-C24 fatty alcohols; - polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as Laureth-5 carboxylic acid; - a polyoxyethylated fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as Laureth-9; - a polyoxyalkylated derivative of monoglyceryl ester of a fatty acid such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, - sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate;- a polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester and - mixtures thereof.;

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising a saponifier chosen from hydroxide of sodium, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, trometamolamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine and a combination of these products.

8. Composition according to claim 7, in which the molar ratio of the saponifier to the structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids is between 15% and 50%.

9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 1.3% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one structuring agent selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids; (ii) from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof; (iii) from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from mono- and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid, ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, C14-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof and (iv) from 12% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one C-glycoside selected from C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and a combination thereof.

10. Non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratin materials.

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