Cosmetic composition with solid foaming power at room temperature and its preparation process

Abstract

The invention relates to a foaming cosmetic composition that is solid at room temperature. The invention is characterized in that it comprises: - at least one cationic hair conditioner; - at least one anionic surfactant, glutamate; and - at least one nonionic surfactant, said first nonionic surfactant being caprylyl / capryl glycoside wheat bran / straw. The invention also relates to the process for preparing such a composition according to the invention, as well as its cosmetic use for washing or caring for hair, scalp, and skin. Figure 5

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition with solid foaming power at room temperature and its preparation process Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition with foaming power, solid at room temperature, which does not contain sulfur-containing or ethoxylated surfactants and advantageously comprises compounds enabling it to be certifiable by the ECOCERT group according to the COSMOS label. It also relates to a process for the preparation by hot casting of such a composition according to the invention and its cosmetic uses for washing or caring for the hair, scalp and skin. Prior art

[0002] It is important to know and understand the difference between a shampoo with the so-called classic galenic, a conditioner, a soap and a syndet.

[0003] Indeed, the composition according to the invention is a shampoo manufactured using hot casting technology, that is to say that the product is in particular neither a soap nor a syndet.

[0004] A shampoo with a so-called classic galenic is a liquid shampoo, composed mainly of water. It is the most common type of shampoo on the market. It is composed of several families of raw materials, namely hair conditioners, hydrocolloids, surfactants, additives such as preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, and other stabilizers, and other active ingredients.

[0005] Hair conditioners are generally used to leave hair manageable, supple, soft and shiny. They help with detangling when shampooing. These materials are mostly cationic raw materials, large molecules such as polysaccharides, proteins or amino acids, PEG derivatives, silicones or quaterniums.

[0006] Hydrocolloids give texture to the shampoo, particularly in cases where the synergy of the surfactants used does not provide sufficient texture. There are many families of hydrocolloids, the most used being synthetic hydrocolloids (for example acrylates), derivatives of microorganisms (for example xanthan gum), derivatives of algae (for example agar, carrageenans). Most of these hydrocolloids, apart from the synthetic hydrocolloids prohibited by the COSMOS standard, are negatively charged.

[0007] Surfactants will make hygiene products foam. They can be cationic, anionic or even amphoteric, non-ionic, derived from petrochemicals, fats or ingredients of natural origin.

[0008] The composition of a shampoo with the so-called classic galenic is presented in Table 1 below. A shampoo is used to clean the scalp and hair, but it is also expected of a shampoo that it leaves, among other things, the hair light, shiny, and coated.

[0009] Table 1: Ingredients Composition (% weight / weight) Osmosis water, thermal water, floral water 60-80% Hydrocolloids 0.1-2% Conditioners 0.1-5% Surfactants 1-40% Active ingredients According to formula Additives According to formula

[0010] In comparison, a conditioner is applied only to the hair and not to the scalp, with the aim of detangling and beautifying it. Its typical composition is therefore different, as shown in Table 2 below. For example, it does not contain surfactants (foaming agents) but is richer in active ingredients, fatty substances and conditioners.

[0011] Table 2: Ingredients Composition (% weight / weight) Osmosis water, thermal water, floral water 60-90% Hydrocolloids 0.1-2% Fatty substances 1-20% Conditioners 1-10% Active ingredients According to formula Additives According to formula

[0012] So-called classic shampoos and conditioners are generally manufactured in cosmetic mixers with simple mixing steps, with or without vacuum, emulsions, dispersion or homogenization. These mixtures are then packaged in packaging such as a bottle, flask, tube, etc. The dosage of the product in its packaging is most often carried out cold.

[0013] A soap comes from another type of product. It results from a saponification reaction, which reacts an ester with hydroxide ions (from soda or potash most of the time) giving carboxylate ions (and an alcohol) which is the molecule we call soap. In the INCI list of a product, the products resulting from saponification reactions are recognized by their structure: sodium xxx-ate or potassium xxx-ate. The "xxx" part adapts to the vegetable oil used, for example sodium cocoate for a soap synthesized from coconut oil. A soap being synthesized from soda, it therefore has a fairly high pH (generally between pH=9 and pH=1 1) unlike liquid galenics (excluding liquid soap) which have a pH more often between pH=4 and pH=6. Soap is not specifically adapted to the hair care sector, where products with an acidic pH are preferred because they are more affinity with the hair fiber. A soap can be liquid but it is most of the time found in the form of solid foaming agent.

[0014] A syndet is the counterpart of soap, is commonly called "soap-free soap" and comes from the contraction of "synthetic detergents". They are solid foaming cleansers like solid soaps, but with a much more acidic pH and closer to the pH of the skin. The manufacture of syndets is generally carried out by manufacturers equipped with extruders or plodders composed of extrusion dies. The mixtures are made from "syndet base" supplied by the usual suppliers of raw materials, which are then mixed with the perfumes or active ingredients desired for the finished product. The ingredients are mixed with the "syndet base", then pass through the extrusion process in order to be "puddled" and then "struck" into the final form of the product. The choice of raw materials added to the "syndet base" is limited; for example, there cannot be significant quantities of fatty substances or raw materials to be melted.Adding charged raw materials is also complicated because the "syndet base" itself contains charged raw materials (most often negatively). Syndets were initially body foaming products, and are increasingly being offered for hair foaming products.

[0015] The cosmetic composition with foaming power, solid at room temperature, which is the subject of the invention, is a shampoo obtained by hot casting, a technology different from saponification or syndets, which makes it possible to manufacture a mixture in a manner similar to those of so-called classic cosmetics, but to shape it into a solid galenic thanks to high-temperature casting.

[0016] As an example of a solid shampoo, mention may be made of patent document WO2021212404 which discloses a method for producing a transparent solid shampoo, comprising: i) preparing a solution i) comprising at least one N-Acyl amino acid and water, the solution i) having a temperature of 70°C to 100°C, preferably 75°C to 90°C, more preferably 80°C to 88°C, ii) preparing a solution ii) comprising at least one alkali and water, the solution ii) having a temperature of 70°C to 100°C, preferably 75°C to 90°C, more preferably 80°C to 88°C, 80°C to 88°C, iii) adding solution ü) to solution i) with stirring at a temperature of 70°C to 100°C, preferably 75°C to 90°C, more preferably 80°C to 88°C, so as to obtain a homogeneous transparent solution iii); and iv) cooling solution iii) to room temperature, a) at least one alcohol being included in solution i) and / or in solution ii) and / or in solution iii), b) water being included in a total amount not exceeding 40% by weight, preferably not exceeding 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the solid shampoo, and c) optionally, a second surfactant and / or a hair conditioning compound being included in solution i) and / or in solution ii) and / or in solution iii).

[0017] However, this document describes compositions using, in addition to an alkaline agent, sulfur-containing and / or ethoxylated surfactants which can induce itching, irritation or even drying of the skin and scalp.

[0018] Also known is patent document WO2020089777 which describes a shampoo bar composition having at least 60% by weight of one or more surfactants, at least one or more of the surfactants comprising a polyglyceryl ester. The composition in solid bar form contains lower levels of anionic surfactants and may further be free of sulfate or sulfonate surfactants.

[0019] However, this document discloses compositions using at least one surfactant derived from polyglyceryl ester and not comprising a cationic hair conditioner.

[0020] Furthermore, as examples of solid foaming products existing on the market, mention may be made of the product “MON SHAMPOOING SOLIDE FRANÇAIS” from CORINE DE FARME comprising a “syndet base” and obtained by extrusion.

[0021] In addition to being a syndet, this product comprises at least one ethoxylated surfactant and does not comprise a cationic hair conditioner.

[0022] On the market, there are also solid soaps intended for use on the face, body or hair, produced by saponification. For example, we can cite the “SOLID SHAMPOO” MARQUESAS ISLANDS - BELICE.

[0023] Apart from the fact that it is a soap and therefore includes sodium cocoate, this product does not include a cationic hair conditioner.

[0024] Also, in the case of soap, the pH is very high compared to that of the skin, which can also dry it out or give a rough feeling on the skin or scalp after application.

[0025] Finally, two hot-poured foaming products containing neither sulfur / ethoxylated surfactants nor soap derivatives were identified. These are solid shampoos of the brands ENDRO and ENSEME which have compositions different from those of the composition according to the invention, in particular as regards the non-ionic surfactant more particularly used.

[0026] Comparative results as exemplified below show improved results with the composition according to the invention compared to these products in terms of cosmetic properties or industrialization process.

[0027] Technical problem

[0028] Generally speaking, it remains necessary to develop a cosmetic composition with foaming power, solid at room temperature, which is neither a syndet nor a soap, for hair, body or face application.

[0029] In view of the above, a problem which the present invention proposes to solve consists of developing a solid foaming roller which meets the constraints of industrialization of hot casting, which has satisfactory cosmetic properties without being formulated with sulfur and ethoxylated surfactants considered irritating or whose synthesis is harmful to the environment.

[0030] Benefits provided

[0031] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a foaming pebble without sulfur-containing or ethoxylated surfactants, for example without sulfates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, isethionates, carboxylates, all having satisfactory cosmetic qualities, that is to say an acceptable foam, effective detangling, and softness on the skin.

[0032] It also makes it possible to obtain a solid product with an acceptable shape and which can be industrialized using hot casting technology.

[0033] In hot casting, a formula is considered industrializable when, once melted at high temperature, the mixture is sufficiently fluid to flow into molds, for example silicone, by simple gravity without being carried along. The shape of the product is acceptable if the surface of the product thus cast is smooth without it being necessary to modify it manually.

[0034] The composition according to the invention also meets a regulatory constraint in that it is advantageously certified by the COSMOS standard, which ensures its positive impact on humans and the environment.

[0035] Technical solution

[0036] The solution to this problem posed has as its first object a cosmetic composition with foaming power, solid at room temperature, characterized in that it comprises: - at least one cationic hair conditioner; - at least one anionic glutamate surfactant chosen from sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, taken alone or in combination; and - at least one non-ionic surfactant, said first non-ionic surfactant being caprylyl / capryl wheat bran / straw glycoside.

[0037] It also relates to a process for preparing a composition according to the invention, characterized in that it comprises the following steps according to which:

[0038] a) the cationic hair conditioner is mixed with, if necessary, the consistency factor(s), the fatty substance(s) and one or more additives and / or antimicrobial agent(s) (phase A);

[0039] b) the mixture thus obtained (phase A) is heated with stirring to a temperature between 75°C and 115°C, preferably between 80°C and 110°C;

[0040] c) after checking that all the compounds of the mixture (phase A) are melted, the mixture thus obtained is maintained between 75°C and 115°C, preferably between 80°C and 110°C, for 5 min to 40 min, preferably 10 min to 35 min;

[0041] d) the anionic surfactant is dispersed in whole (phase B) or in part (phase B1) in powder form in the molten mixture thus obtained (phase A) with stirring at a temperature between 75°C and 115°C, preferably between 80°C and 110°C;

[0042] e) the mixture thus obtained (phases A + B) is homogenized with stirring for 5 min to 65 minutes, preferably 10 min to 60 min;

[0043] f) the previously solubilized caprylyl / capryl glycoside bran / wheat straw is dispersed with stirring, optionally with decyl glucoside (phase C), the remaining part of the anionic surfactant (phase B2) and an antimicrobial agent and / or a perfume (phase D) at a temperature between 50°C and 70°C, preferably between 60°C and 65°C, in the mixture thus obtained (phases A + B) with stirring at a temperature between 60°C and 85°C, preferably between 65°C and 85°C for 10 min to 50 min, preferably 15 min to 45 min; and

[0044] g) the said composition (phases A + B + C + D) is hot-cast, for example in the form of a pebble.

[0045] Finally, it relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, for washing or caring for the hair, scalp and skin. Brief description of the drawings

[0046] The invention and the advantages resulting therefrom will be better understood upon reading the description and the non-limiting embodiments which follow, with regard to the appended figures in which:

[0047] [Fig.l] represents the steps of a process for preparing a composition according to the invention following a first operating mode.

[0048] [Fig.2] represents the steps of a process for preparing a composition according to the invention according to a second operating mode.

[0049] [Fig. 3] represents the steps of a process for preparing a composition according to the invention following a third operating mode.

[0050] Figure 4 (Figures 4A to 4F) represents the tables and graphs regarding the responses to the questions posed to a consumer panel.

[0051] [Fig.5] represents the sensory quality profile obtained from a hairdresser for a composition according to the invention.

[0052] [Fig.6] represents the sensory quality profile obtained from a hairdresser for a competing product (Sentier Vert solid shampoo - ENDRO) compared with a composition according to the invention.

[0053] [Fig.7] represents the sensory quality profile obtained from a hairdresser for a competing product (Ylang Ylang solid shampoo for dry hair - BELICE) compared with a composition according to the invention.

[0054] [Fig.8] represents the sensory quality profile obtained from a hairdresser for a competing product (Solid shampoo for normal hair - CORINE DE FARME) compared with a composition according to the invention.

[0055] [Fig.9] represents the sensory quality profile obtained from a hairdresser for a competing product (Solid shampoo for dry hair - ENSEME) compared with a composition according to the invention.

[0056] [Fig. 10] represents the sensory quality profile obtained from a hairdresser for a competing product (Solid shampoo for dry hair - I LOVE BIO) compared with a composition according to the invention.

[0057] Figure 11 (Figures 11A and 11B) represents the graphs regarding the responses to the questions asked to a consumer panel aiming to compare the qualities of a composition according to the invention with the ENSEME solid shampoo for dry hair. Description of the embodiments

[0058] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition with foaming power, solid at room temperature, preferably a shampoo.

[0059] By solid at room temperature is meant a product which remains stable and does not melt at high temperature, usually between 42°C and 50°C.

[0060] The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by hot casting technology.

[0061] The composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises: - at least one cationic hair conditioner; - at least one anionic glutamate surfactant chosen from sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, taken alone or in combination; and - at least one non-ionic surfactant, said first non-ionic surfactant being caprylyl / capryl wheat bran / straw glycoside.

[0062] The hair conditioner used in the composition according to the invention is a cationic raw material, therefore positively charged.

[0063] This type of conditioner is usually used in rinse-out or leave-in hair care (conditioner, mask, leave-in treatment) but is difficult to use in a conventional shampoo in aqueous solution, because it is incompatible with many negatively charged (anionic) surfactants used and most hydrocolloids. Indeed, the presence of water causes the mixture to swell and highlights an instability between the cationic hair conditioner and the anionic surfactant, for example sodium lauroyl glutamate.

[0064] In a particularly advantageous manner, this incompatibility is therefore not or only slightly expressed in the solid composition according to the invention in that it contains no or little water.

[0065] Conversely, most conditioners used in conventional shampoos must be activated by water, for example quaternized guar gum which must be dispersed in water. This type of conditioner could therefore not be used in solid galenic formulations, due to the lack of water.

[0066] The use of such a cationic hair conditioner in a solid composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain improved detangling and coating performance compared to liquid galenic shampoos.

[0067] Preferably, the cationic hair conditioner used in a composition according to the invention is chosen from brassicyl valinate esylate, the mixture of arachidyl / behenyl alcohol and arachidyl / behenyl betainate esylate, the mixture of brassicyl betainate esylate and brassicyl alcohol, the mixture of brassicyl isoleucinate esylate and brassicyl alcohol, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride and cetearyl alcohol, taken alone or in combination, more preferably the mixture of arachidyl / behenyl alcohol and arachidyl / behenyl betainate esylate.

[0068] Advantageously, the arachidyl / behenyl alcohol and arachidyl / behenyl betainate esylate mixture is composed of two parts, a positively charged active part (arachidyl / behenyl betainate esylate) and a fatty alcohol (arachidyl / behenyl alcohol) allowing it to have a melting point of approximately 75°C, which makes it a particularly interesting material for a hot-cast solid product.

[0069] The cationic hair conditioner, taken alone or in combination, is preferably used in the composition according to the invention at a concentration of between 1% and 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition (weight / weight), more preferably between 10% and 15%, for example 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14% or 15%.

[0070] Foaming surfactants generally used in cosmetics are classified into three families: anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and non-ionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants develop a rapid foam, amphoteric surfactants a rich foam and non-ionic surfactants a creamy foam.

[0071] They are usually used diluted in water or in a solvent to facilitate mixing.

[0072] In the context of the invention, namely a composition with foaming power, solid at room temperature, it is difficult to introduce water.

[0073] Most anionic surfactants in powder form are sulfur-containing surfactants.

[0074] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one glutamate anionic surfactant, advantageously in powder form, chosen from sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, taken alone or in combination, preferably sodium lauroyl glutamate.

[0075] The powdered surfactant preferably used in the composition according to the invention is sodium lauroyl glutamate in that it confers, surprisingly, optimal properties in terms in particular of pouring and setting according to the preparation process according to the invention, for example by comparison with sodium myristoyl glutamate, another surfactant of the same family but with a longer carbon chain, and therefore in theory more easily assimilated in a highly oily medium like that of the composition according to the invention.

[0076] The anionic glutamate surfactant, taken alone or in combination, is preferably used in the composition according to the invention at a concentration of between 0.5% and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition (weight / weight), more preferably between 20% and 30%, for example 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%, 24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%, 29% or 30%.

[0077] The glutamate anionic surfactant used in the composition according to the invention is combined with a first non-ionic surfactant, namely caprylyl / capryl wheat bran / straw glycoside.

[0078] This glycoside is a non-ionic surfactant that is more lipophilic than glucosides because its polar head is smaller. With an equivalent fatty chain, its lipophilic character is more marked than that of glucosides.

[0079] This glycoside is advantageously used in the composition according to the invention in mixture in vegetable monopropylene glycol. This material therefore makes it possible to provide foam without adding water to the composition according to the invention, and to be more affinitious with the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0080] The first non-ionic glycoside surfactant is preferably used in the composition according to the invention at a concentration of between 0.5% and 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition (weight / weight), more preferably between 10% and 25%, for example 10%, 12%, 15%, 18%, 20%, 22% or 25%.

[0081] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one second non-ionic surfactant, said second non-ionic surfactant being decyl glucoside, and in that the ratio between decyl glucoside and caprylyl / capryl glycoside bran / wheat straw is between 0.001:1 and 1:3, more preferably 1:3.

[0082] Surprisingly, the composition according to the invention also advantageously comprises decyl glucoside as a non-ionic surfactant despite the fact that it does not exist in powder form because it is a very hygroscopic material which makes it unstable in powder form in ambient air. Decyl glucoside is therefore used in the form of a mixture in water in the composition according to the invention. Insofar as the composition according to the invention is solid at room temperature, it must be used at a necessary and sufficient concentration, in the given ratio, to obtain the cosmetic properties of interest of the composition according to the invention by controlling the supply of water and the impact on the possible reaction between the anionic surfactant and the cationic conditioner, in order to limit the presence of water while maintaining an acceptable foam.

[0083] The second non-ionic glucoside surfactant, namely decyl glucoside taken alone or in combination with other glucoside surfactant(s) such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, or sunfloweroyl methylglucamide and / or surfactants of lactylate type, polyol type (glucamides), betaine type, amphoacetate type, carboxylate type, or glycerol ester type (caprates, caprylates, etc.), is preferably used in the composition according to the invention at a concentration of between 0.5% and 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition (weight / weight), more preferably between 1% and 10%, for example 3%, 4%, 5%, the ratio between decyl glucoside and caprylyl / capryl glycoside bran / wheat straw is between 0.001:1 and 1:3, more preferably 1:3.

[0084] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a sulfur-containing surfactant, such as sulfates and their sulfosuccinate, sulfoacetate, sulfonate, isethionate, and / or ethoxylated derivatives.

[0085] These sulfur and / or ethoxylated surfactants are generally used for their very good foaming and detergent properties and their competitive price. However, these surfactants have a very significant negative charge. This charge can bind to specific active sites of the keratin protein sequence (positively charged) which makes up 80% of human hair. This is the case, for example, with glycine, a positively charged amino acid, whose sulfates cause denaturation.

[0086] This denaturation will dissolve cellular material and can go as far as dissolving the endocuticle, which can then lead to the detachment of the cuticles at the next shampoo.

[0087] Sulfates are, moreover, aggressive surfactants and irritants for the skin. They can alter the scalp and skin and cause irritation, itching or the appearance of dandruff. Irritations will also lead to a disruption of the sebaceous glands causing hyperseborrhea.

[0088] In this context, it was chosen to remove all the sulfur-containing surfactants from the invention. The technical constraint was therefore to replace these surfactants with non-sulfur-containing surfactants while maintaining an acceptable quantity of foam in the final product, consumers associating the foam with a “washing” product.

[0089] It was also chosen not to use ethoxylated or sulfur-containing surfactants, because of their toxic and environmentally polluting synthesis.

[0090] The composition according to the invention being produced by hot casting technology, it can advantageously also comprise a fatty substance, taken alone or in combination, unlike solid foaming agents in syndet form which can only contain a fatty substance in a limited quantity of less than 5%.

[0091] Fatty substances are of particular interest in hair care because they help to coat and protect the hair fiber, as well as to make it shine. They can also limit the penetration of water into the hair cortex.

[0092] Among the fatty substances, we can cite vegetable oils and butters, which are entirely natural; it is also possible to use synthesized fatty substances such as esters or hydrogenated oils which have the same properties as vegetable butters. Thanks to new technologies, these esters and hydrogenated oils can have a high level of naturalness.

[0093] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a fatty substance chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated oils of castor, argan, jojoba, sweet almond, avocado, carrot, apricot kernel, wheat germ, nigella, mustard, borage, hazelnut, macadamia, Abyssinia, sesame, evening primrose, prickly pear, grape seed, safflower, camelina, karanja, camellia, chia, flax, mango, baobab, broccoli, andiroba, babassu, desert date, monoi, moringa, or shea butter, taken alone or in combination, preferably coconut oil, sunflower oil and shea butter, taken alone or in combination, more preferably in combination.

[0094] The fatty substance, taken alone or in combination, is preferably used in the composition according to the invention at a concentration of between 0.5% and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition (weight / weight), more preferably between 15% and 50%, even more preferably between 20% and 30%, for example 20%, 25%, 30%.

[0095] Coconut oil is preferably used in the composition according to the invention because it has a high concentration of lauric acid, which has a high affinity with hair proteins and is capable of penetrating the hair fiber thanks to its low molecular weight and its linear fatty chain. It is an oil whose carbon chain is short (compared to olive oil for example) and therefore allows it to be rinsed easily, an advantage for a shampoo. This oil also has moisturizing, nourishing and film-forming properties on the skin.

[0096] Sunflower oil is also preferably used in the composition according to the invention because it is a neutral oil, in which the surfactant in powder form disperses easily.

[0097] Shea butter is also preferably used in the composition according to the invention because it contains a high proportion of unsaponifiables and is highly concentrated in vitamins (pro A and E). Its composition gives it nourishing and protective properties on the hair fiber. This butter is also recognized for its nourishing and soothing properties on the skin.

[0098] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises a consistency factor chosen from fatty acids and fatty alcohols whose carbon chain contains between 14 and 22 carbon atoms chosen from hydrogenated castor oil, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol, the mixture of cetearyl alcohol and coco glucoside, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, hydrostearic acid, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin, palmitic acid, the mixture of brassicyl betainate esylate and brassicyl alcohol, taken alone or in combination, preferably behenyl alcohol, stearic acid and the mixture of brassicyl betainate esylate and brassicyl alcohol, taken alone or in combination.

[0099] These consistency factors preferably used are mainly fatty acids and fatty alcohols and chosen according to their melting point, preferably the highest possible. A consistency factor with a high melting point makes it possible to obtain a firm solid pebble, which does not melt easily in stability at 50°C and therefore over time. However, this firmness can prove to be a disadvantage for the use of the pebble because the foam develops less easily when the pebble is very firm. It is therefore important to find a balance between these two points. The consistency factors therefore influence the industrialization of the composition according to the invention, which must be liquid enough to flow during manufacture. Pasty formulas at 80°C are therefore non-compliant.

[0100] The consistency factor, taken alone or in combination, is preferentially used in the composition according to the invention at a concentration of between 0.5% and 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition (weight / weight), more preferably between 5% and 15%, for example 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14% or 15%.

[0101] The composition according to the invention may further comprise any cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0102] A cosmetically acceptable excipient means a vehicle suitable for use in contact with human and animal cells, in particular epidermal cells, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit / risk ratio.

[0103] As non-limiting examples of cosmetically acceptable excipients, the composition according to the invention preferably also comprises one or more additive(s), perfume(s) and antimicrobial agent(s).

[0104] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains perfumes and an antimicrobial agent, for example glyceryl caprylate.

[0105] It also contains a mixture of lactic acid and sodium lactate, in particular when decyl glucoside is used. Indeed, the composition according to the invention contains water when decyl glucoside is used; however, the cationic hair conditioning agent must be maintained at an acidic pH when it is in contact with water and requires the use, for example advantageously, of the buffer mixture of lactic acid and sodium lactate (50 / 50) added to the composition according to the invention.

[0106] As a comparative example, the addition of citric acid (in powder form not containing water) was tested instead of the mixture of lactic acid and sodium lactate; this citric acid was added between 2% and 7% in the mixture, and a change was observed in the viscosity of the mixture, it being more fluid and able to be poured by gravity and thus take the formula of the mold naturally. However, the mixture thus poured into the mold is not completely homogeneous and a supernatant liquid can be observed at the periphery of the roller.

[0107] The additive, perfume and / or antimicrobial agent, taken alone or in combination, is preferably used in the composition according to the invention at a concentration of between 0.1% and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (weight / weight), more preferably between 3% and 10%, for example 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9% or 10%.

[0108] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in a form suitable for topical administration, for example in the form of a pebble.

[0109] It is preferably applied directly to the hair or skin.

[0110] Another subject of the invention relates to a process for preparing a composition according to the invention as described above, characterized in that it comprises the following steps according to which:

[0111] a) the cationic hair conditioner is mixed with, if necessary, the consistency factor(s), the fatty substance(s) and one or more additives and / or antimicrobial agent(s) (phase A);

[0112] b) the mixture thus obtained (phase A) is heated with stirring to a temperature between 75°C and 115°C, preferably between 80°C and 110°C;

[0113] c) after checking that all the compounds of the mixture (phase A) are melted, the mixture thus obtained is maintained between 75°C and 115°C, preferably between 80°C and 110°C, for 5 min to 40 min, preferably 10 min to 35 min;

[0114] d) the anionic surfactant is dispersed in whole (phase B) or in part (phase B1) in powder form in the molten mixture thus obtained (phase A) with stirring at a temperature between 75°C and 115°C, preferably between 80°C and 110°C;

[0115] e) the mixture thus obtained (phases A + B) is homogenized with stirring for 5 min to 65 minutes, preferably 10 min to 60 min;

[0116] f) the previously solubilized caprylyl / capryl glycoside bran / wheat straw is dispersed with stirring, optionally with decyl glucoside (phase C), the remaining part of the anionic surfactant (phase B2) and an antimicrobial agent and / or a perfume (phase D) at a temperature between 50°C and 70°C, preferably between 60°C and 65°C, in the mixture thus obtained (phases A + B) with stirring at a temperature between 60°C and 85°C, preferably between 65°C and 85°C for 10 min to 50 min, preferably 15 min to 45 min; and

[0117] g) the said composition (phases A + B + C + D) is hot-cast, for example in the form of a pebble.

[0118] Other operating modes have been tested, for example with sodium lauroyl glutamate (anionic surfactant) incorporated into other phases of the mixture, or at a higher temperature, with results (not illustrated) in terms of casting which are not satisfactory compared to those obtained with the process according to the invention.

[0119] The composition according to the invention can be prepared using different mixers.

[0120] According to a first embodiment, a first mixer is used to work under vacuum, with shearing at the rotor-stator (here called emulsifier).

[0121] The procedure is presented in [Fig.l]. The composition according to the invention thus obtained before casting is smooth, shiny, without white grains or poorly mixed agglomerates of powders.

[0122] According to another embodiment, a second mixer is used which does not allow working under vacuum or shearing at the rotor-stator.

[0123] The operating mode is presented in [Fig.2].

[0124] In this procedure, the temperature was raised to 95°C in order to obtain a smooth and homogeneous mixture. In addition, the stirring is started at its power maximum in order to introduce the powders into the mixture. This powerful agitation aerated the mixture, the rise to 95°C and slower agitation allowed it to gradually deaerate.

[0125] Another operating mode is presented in [Fig.3].

[0126] Casting can be carried out by pressure casting and by gravity casting, i.e. without pressure to bring the composition into a mold.

[0127] During die casting, the resulting composition is pushed through a metering pump. The pump is equipped with pistons which draw the bulk into the pump and then meter it into the silicone molds in the desired shape.

[0128] The field of application envisaged for this invention is the cosmetics industry and particularly foaming products for hair, body or face application.

[0129] To this end, another object concerns the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, for washing or caring for the hair, scalp and skin.

[0130] A final subject of the invention relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of hair and skin consisting of applying by rubbing onto the hair or skin an effective amount of a composition according to the invention and then optionally rinsing with water.

[0131] Advantageously, rinsing is carried out.

[0132] By effective quantity, we mean the minimum quantity of composition according to the invention which is necessary to obtain its activity, in particular cosmetic and more particularly for washing or caring for the hair and skin.

[0133] The composition according to the invention will, for example, intensely hydrate the hair fiber and provide strength, shine and luster to the hair, thus making it less brittle and smoother.

[0134] The composition according to the invention can give the hair fiber sheathing, protective, restructuring properties and thus makes it possible to obtain soft, silky, supple, disciplined, shiny, embellished, sheathed, radiant, hydrated, light, protected, sublimated, revitalized, fortified, restructured, nourished, reinforced and regenerated hair. The hair regains volume and vitality, and the ends are less dry and their detangling is made easier.

[0135] It can also help reduce water penetration into the cortex, thus preventing swelling of the fiber and hydrating the scalp, which can soothe irritated scalps and itching. Examples

[0136] The present invention will now be illustrated by means of the following examples:

[0137] Example 1: Testing the combination of non-ionic surfactants at different ratios

[0138] Two liquid surfactants were used in a composition as formulated in Table 3, namely: decyl glucoside and caprylyl / capryl wheat bran / straw glycoside. The first (i.e. decyl glucoside) is solubilized in water; caprylyl / capryl wheat bran / straw glycoside is diluted in propylene glycol.

[0139] Different ratios between these two surfactants (decyl glucoside / caprylyl / capryl wheat bran / straw glycoside) were tested, the other ingredients of the composition being identical. The results in terms of pouring are compiled in Table 4.

[0140] Table 3: Ingredients (INCI EU) % Material (wt / wt) Function ARACHIDYL / BEHENYL ALCOHOL ARACHIDYL / BEHENYL BETAINATE ESYLATE 1-30 Conditioning Blend BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER 0.5-15 Shea Butter - Fatty Substance BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0.5-30 Consistency Factor HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL 0.5-30 Sunflower Oil - Fatty Substance COCOS NUCIFERA OIL 0.5-30 Coconut Oil - Fatty Substance SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE 0.5-50 Powder Surfactant PROPYLENE GLYCOL CAPRYLYL / CAPRYL WHEAT BRAN / STRAW GLYCOSIDES 0.5-30 Liquid Surfactant DECYL GLUCOSIDE AQUA 0.5-30 Liquid Surfactant SODIUM LACTATE 0.5-5 Additive - buffer mix LACTIC ACID AQUA 0.5-5 Additive - buffer mix PERFUME According to formula Additive - perfume GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.1-1 Additive - antimicrobial 100.0

[0141] Table 4: Ingredients 3006A.2 3 3006A.4 8 3006A.5 0 3006A.51 3006A.53 3006A.54 DECYL GLUCOSIDE 9 0 5 2.5 3 / 8 7 PROPYLENE GLYCOL, CAPRYLYL / CAPRYL WHEAT BRAN / STRAW GLYCOSIDES 1 10 5 7.5 5 / 8 3 Manufacturing OK OK OK OK OK OK Pouring too thick to flow liquid +++ thick fluid paste, flows smooth and homogeneous paste but too thick to flow moderately homogeneous paste, flows but a little thick Pebble appearance OK Very smooth / Very smooth / / Smooth = pebble that has no roughness, and fits the mold correctly

[0142] “ / ” means not applicable because the mixture was thick and did not flow properly

[0143] According to the results thus obtained, the mixture becomes compliant when poured, with a smooth and homogeneous pebble either in the presence of only the glycoside (and in the absence of the glucoside - formula 3006A.48) or from the glucoside / glycoside ratio 1:3. The mixture then naturally takes on the shape of the mold.

[0144] The presence of water bound to the decyl glucoside causes a reaction between the anionic surfactant and the cationic conditioner which causes the mixture to swell and prevents running.

[0145] Example 2: Formulation of a composition according to the invention

[0146] Table 5: Ingredients (INCI EU) % Material (weight / weight) Function ARACHIDYL / BEHENYL ALCOHOL ARACHIDYL / BEHENYL BETAINATE ESYLATE 1-30 Conditioning Blend BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER 0.5-15 Shea Butter - Fatty Substance BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0.5-30 Consistency Factor HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL 0.5-30 Sunflower Oil - Fatty Substance COCOS NUCIFERA OIL 0.5-30 Coconut Oil - Fatty Substance SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE 0.5-50 Powder Surfactant PROPYLENE GLYCOL CAPRYLYL / CAPRYL WHEAT BRAN / STRAW GLYCOSIDES 0.5-30 Liquid Surfactant (ratio 3 to decyl glucoside) DECYL GLUCOSIDE AQUA 0.5-30 Liquid surfactant (ratio 1 / 3 to glycoside) SODIUM LACTATE 0.5-5 Additive - buffer mixture LACTIC ACID AQUA 0.5-5 Additive - buffer mixture PERFUME According to formula Additive - perfume GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.1-1 Additive - antimicrobial 100.0

[0147] Such a composition (obtained with the processes according to the operating modes of the Figures 1, 2 or 3) allows you to obtain a smooth, shiny mixture that does not contain grains or lumps. It thus flows by simple gravity and naturally takes the shape of the mold. After pouring, the final pebble is smooth, homogeneous and solid.

[0148] Example 3: Test on a consumer panel

[0149] The composition according to example 2 (Table 5) was tested in a consumer panel with two fragrances: coconut and shea. The results and test methods are presented below for the coconut fragrance.

[0150] The panel was conducted on 60 people, with 52 respondents. The panelists had to use the solid tablet as a shampoo for 5 uses with the following instructions: - wet the pebble well to activate it during the first use (and wet it during each use); - rub the pebble on wet scalp to lather, and distribute the lather; - apply to the lengths and ends, rub in; and - detangle.

[0151] The following questions were specifically asked of the panel: - In what age group do you fall? - What is your hair type? - Is your hair?

[0152] The panel was asked the general impression of the product tested, a score on a scale of 0 to 10 to express overall satisfaction, as well as questions about the texture, ease of application, foam generated, and rinsing of such a product.

[0153] The results obtained are illustrated by the graphs and tables in Figures 4 AF.

[0154] According to the results thus obtained, it appears that the composition according to the invention tested is appreciated by consumers, with an average of 75% overall satisfaction and results above 69% for all criteria tested.

[0155] Example 4: Stability Test

[0156] The composition according to Example 2 (Table 5) underwent stability tests which correspond to accelerated aging. During this test, several criteria are monitored: the appearance of the pebble, its color and its odor. These criteria are monitored at room temperature, at 4°C for 1 month and at heat at 42°C for 3 months and 50°C for 1 month. In the case of solid products, its resistance to high temperatures must also be monitored: whether the pebble does not melt, soften or disintegrate.

[0157] The results obtained are compiled in Table 6 below.

[0158] Table 6: Test Appearance-Color - Odor 20°C Appearance-Color - Odor 4°C TO Smooth, shiny, homogeneous pebble, so shea scent 7 SL: 7 days 7 7 S2:14 days OK OK S4:1 month / 28 days OK OK S8: 2 months OK Appearance-Color - Odor 42"C / / / Slightly darker, OK Appearance-Color - Odor 50°C / / more orange, less fresh scent OK, more orange, -fresh-scent, wheat note Darker, OK. Scent OK

[0159] According to the results thus obtained, the pebble according to the invention meets the stability conditions described above, it does not melt and remains intact at 50°C. Only a slight change in color can be observed, which remains acceptable in the context of accelerated aging.

[0160] Example 5: Hairdresser comparative test

[0161] The competitive samples presented below were tested comparatively with a composition according to the invention by an independent professional hairdresser.

[0162] Table 7: Product Code Description Control - Solid shampoo according to the invention A Solid shampoo described in the invention, corresponds to the formula according to example 2 - Table 5 Solid shampoo Sentier Vert -ENDRO B Solid shampoo poured hot without ethoxylated or sulfur surfactants Solid shampoo for dry hair Ylang Ylang - BELICE C Soap Solid shampoo for normal hair - CORINE DE FARME D Syndet based on isethionate surfactants Solid shampoo for dry hair -ENSEME E Solid shampoo poured hot without ethoxylated or sulfur surfactants Solid shampoo for dry hair - I LOVE BIO F Syndet based on sulfated surfactants

[0163] Six panelists (women) were recruited for this study based on the following criteria: medium to long hair, and sufficient density to separate the hair in two.

[0164] The test protocol is as follows: - once the panelist is installed at the hairdressing basin, separate the hair in two using a parting drawn in the middle of the head; the hair is attached in half the head using a clip. - On half a head, wet the hair, apply the solid product to be tested, previously wet, to the scalp and lengths. - Massage to lather. - Rinse half of your hair until there is no more foam. - Wring out the hair then tie up the half-head. - Repeat the steps on the other half of your hair. - Untie both hairs, wet them slightly then wring them out so that both sides have the same moisture. - Detangle each half of hair separately. - Dry all of your hair.

[0165] The different products are evaluated according to the following criteria by the hairdresser during and after the test. Each criterion is evaluated from 1 to 5.

[0166] Texture: here we evaluate the solid side of the product, if it fits well in the hand, if it does not slip and if it does not disintegrate.

[0167] Foam release: 1 = very slow, 5 = fast and satisfactory.

[0168] Foam volume: 1 = low, 5 = high.

[0169] Foam quality: 1 = fine, brittle, 5 = soft, compact, durable.

[0170] Rinsing: 1 = very difficult, 5 = very easy

[0171] Detangling: 1 = very difficult, 5 = very easy.

[0172] Wet hair sensation: 1 = unpleasant, 5 = very appreciated.

[0173] Dry hair sensation: 1 = unpleasant, 5 = very appreciated.

[0174] Softness: 1 = coarse hair, 5 = very soft hair.

[0175] Shine: 1 = dull hair, 5 = very shiny hair.

[0176] Definition: 1 = undefined hair with a lot of frizz or tangles, 5 = well-defined hair.

[0177] The results thus obtained are presented in Figures 5 to 10.

[0178] These results show that the product according to the invention is generally preferred to competitive products thus tested.

[0179] Also, according to the results obtained in this test, product E “Hot-poured solid shampoo without ethoxylated or sulfurous surfactants” from the ENSEME brand shows similar results to the invention in terms of sensoriality; this product is the subject of other comparative test(s) detailed below.

[0180] Example 6: Additional comparative tests with the ENSEME product

[0181] Two complementary comparative tests were therefore carried out.

[0182] A first test consisted of reformulating the pebble according to the invention (example 2 - Table 5) by replacing the Caprylyl / capryl wheat bran / straw glycoside with, on the one hand, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (test 3006A.56) and, on the other hand, Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides (test 3006A.57).

[0183] Test 3006A.56 with Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate could be manufactured and cast. However, at the end of casting, it was noted that the pebble was slightly detached at the ends. It was also noted on the walls of the beaker that the mixture was no longer smooth and homogeneous. Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate cannot therefore suitably replace the Caprylyl / capryl wheat bran / straw glycoside used in the composition according to the invention and resolve the technical problem.

[0184] Test 3006A.57 with Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides could not be cast into the molds because the mixture is not homogeneous during manufacture, is not smooth and breaks even under stirring, taking on a "curdled milk" appearance. Surprisingly, the surfactant Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides cannot therefore be used as a replacement for the Caprylyl / capryl wheat bran / straw glycoside used in the composition according to the invention and solve the technical problem.

[0185] For information purposes, the END RO brand pebble (not containing ethoxylated or sulfur surfactant) was also tested and melted at 80°C. Above 80°C, it appears that this pebble begins to caramelize or even burn. Its appearance is pasty and the mixture does not flow. This formula is therefore considered not industrializable.

[0186] Also, a second test consisted of testing the pebble of the invention by 5 consumers in comparison with the pebble of the ENSEME brand.

[0187] Panelists were required to use each shampoo twice and then complete the provided questionnaire.

[0188] The rollers retain the same codification as for the test according to example 5, the roller of the invention is therefore roller A while the ENSEME roller is roller E.

[0189] The results obtained are compiled in Figures 1 1A and B.

[0190] These results show that the pebble according to the invention is better appreciated than the pebble TOGETHER on all the criteria thus tested.

[0191] Considering the above and as illustrated by the various examples, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to produce a solid shampoo, for example a pebble, capable of generating a foam as satisfactory as the solid products on the market manufactured with ethoxylated or sulfur-containing surfactants; the solid shampoo according to the invention is judged to be satisfactory by consumers at the sensory level and is industrializable, smooth, solid, sufficiently foaming and detangling.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition with foaming power, solid at room temperature, characterized in that it comprises: - at least one cationic hair conditioner; - at least one glutamate anionic surfactant chosen from sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, taken alone or in combination; and - at least one non-ionic surfactant, said first non-ionic surfactant being caprylyl / capryl wheat bran / straw glycoside.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least one second non-ionic surfactant, said second non-ionic surfactant being decyl glucoside, and in that the ratio between decyl glucoside and caprylyl / capryl glycoside bran / wheat straw is between 0.001:1 and 1:

3.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it does not comprise a sulfur-containing and / or ethoxylated surfactant.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic hair conditioner is chosen from brassicyl valinate esylate, the mixture of arachidyl / behenyl alcohol and arachidyl / behenyl betainate esylate, the mixture of brassicyl betainate esylate and brassicyl alcohol, the mixture of brassicyl isoleucinate esylate and brassicyl alcohol, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride and ce-tearyl alcohol, taken alone or in combination, preferably the mixture of arachidyl / behenyl alcohol and arachidyl / behenyl betainate esylate.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glutamate anionic surfactant is sodium lauroyl glutamate.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a fatty substance chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated oils of castor, argan, jojoba, sweet almond, avocado, carrot, apricot kernel, wheat germ, nigella, mustard, borage, hazelnut, macadamia, abyssinia, sesame, evening primrose, prickly pear, grape seed, safflower, camelina, karanja, camellia, chia, flax, mango, baobab, broccoli, andiroba, babassu, desert date palm, monoi, moringa, or shea butter, taken alone or in combination, preferably coconut oil, sunflower oil and shea butter, taken alone or in combination, more preferably in combination.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a consistency factor chosen from fatty acids and fatty alcohols whose carbon chain contains between 14 and 22 carbon atoms chosen from hydrogenated castor oil, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol, the mixture of cetearyl alcohol and coco glucoside, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, hydroxystearic acid, glyceryl behenate, glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin, palmitic acid, the mixture of brassicyl betainate esylate and brassicyl alcohol, taken alone or in combination, preferably behenyl alcohol, stearic acid and the mixture of brassicyl betainate esylate and brassicyl alcohol, taken alone or in combination.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more additive(s), perfume(s) and antimicrobial agent(s).

9. Process for preparing a composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the following steps according to which: a) the cationic hair conditioner is mixed with optionally the consistency factor(s), the fatty substance(s) and one or more additives and / or antimicrobial agent(s) (phase A); b) the mixture thus obtained (phase A) is heated with stirring to a temperature between 75°C and 115°C, preferably between 80°C and 110°C; c) after checking that all the compounds of the mixture (phase A) are melted, the mixture thus obtained is maintained between 75°C and 115°C, preferably between 80°C and 110°C, for 5 min to 40 min, preferably 10 min to 35 min;d) the anionic surfactant is dispersed in whole (phase B) or in part (phase B1) in powder form in the molten mixture thus obtained (phase A) with stirring at a temperature between 75°C and 115°C, preferably between 80°C and 110°C; e) homogenization with stirring for 5 min to 65 minutes, preferably; f) the previously solubilized caprylyl / capryl glycoside bran / wheat straw is dispersed under stirring with optionally decyl glucoside (phase C), the remaining part of the anionic surfactant (phase B2) and an antimicrobial agent and / or a perfume (phase D) at a temperature between 50°C and 70°C, preferably between 60°C and 65°C, in the mixture thus obtained (phases A + B) under stirring at a temperature between 60°C and 85°C, preferably between 65°C and 85°C for 10 min to 50 min, preferably 15 min to 45 min; and g) the said composition (phases A + B + C + D) is hot-cast, for example in the form of a pebble.

10. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, for washing or caring for the hair, scalp and skin.

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