ORGANIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR PROTECTING SKIN AGAINST PHOTODAMAGE AND AGING

Abstract

ORGANIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR PROTECTING SKIN AGAINST PHOTODAMAGE AND AGING The present disclosure relates to a composition and method for protecting a keratinous substrate from UV radiation by applying to the substrate a composition containing: (a) at least one oil phase thickening agent selected from an activated clay; (b) at least one dispersing aid in substantially solid form; (c) at least one organic sunscreen active; (d) at least one non-volatile solvent; (e) at least one volatile solvent; (f) at least one emulsifier; (g) at least one film former; and (h) water, wherein (a) and (b) are present in the composition in a weight ratio of from more than 1:10 to 1:4; and wherein (b) and (c) are present in a weight ratio of from more than 1:30 to less than 1:1. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: ORGANIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR PROTECTING SKIN AGAINST PHOTODAMAGE AND AGING SCOPE OF DISCLOSURE

[0001] The present disclosure relates to a novel organic sunscreen composition and process for protecting skin from photodamage, the composition having exceptional skin feel properties with highly effective spreadability and non-whitening application. More particularly, the disclosure relates to an organic sunscreen composition containing activated clay combined with a dispersing aid / agent and one or more organic sunscreen actives. CONTEXT OF THE DISCLOSURE

[0002] Skin aging is not only a consequence of chronological age. The skin is exposed to various environmental stresses, such as UV rays, which cause the formation of free radicals in the skin. The degree of UV protection afforded by a composition is directly related to the amount and type of sunscreen actives present in it. The more sunscreen actives there are, the higher the degree of UV protection. It is highly desirable for a sunscreen to provide a high degree of UVA and UVB protection while being gentle on the skin and cosmetically elegant.

[0003] An object of the present disclosure is to provide an organic sunscreen composition with high IP properties, which is stable, has highly effective spreadability, is water resistant and provides uniform distribution of sunscreen actives. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE DISCLOSURE

[0004] The present disclosure relates to water-in-oil sunscreen compositions with organic sunscreen filters that provide a high degree of sun protection, water resistance, and even distribution of UV filters. The compositions also provide a unique sensory experience, as they are highly spreadable, soft, silky, low viscosity, non-greasy, and non-whitening. Sunscreen compositions in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion generally comprise:

[0005] (a) at least one oil phase thickening agent chosen from an activated clay;

[0006] (b) at least one dispersing aid of substantially solid form;

[0007] (c) at least one organic sunscreen active;

[0008] (d) at least one non-volatile solvent;

[0009] (e) at least one volatile solvent;

[0010] (f) at least one emulsifier;

[0011] (g) at least one film-forming agent, and

[0012] (h) water,

[0013] wherein (a) and (b) are present in the composition in a weight ratio of from more than 1:10 to less than 1:4; and

[0014] wherein (b) and (c) are present in the composition in a weight ratio ranging from more than 1:30 to less than 1:1.

[0015] In some embodiments, the at least one oil phase thickening agent is selected from Disteardimonium hectorite, Stearalkonium hectorite, Quat-18 bentonite, Quat-18 hectorite, Benzalkonium bentonite, bentonite clay, hectorite clay, and montmorillonite clay. In one embodiment, the at least one oil phase thickening agent is a disteardimonium hectorite clay dispersed in isododecane and modified with propylene carbonate. In some embodiments, the at least one oil phase thickening agent is present in an amount of about 0.01% to about 7.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the at least one oil phase thickening agent is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 1.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0016] In some embodiments, the at least one substantially solid form dispersion aid is selected from silica, silica and TiO2 sol / gel particles, starch, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, montmorillonite, lauroyl lysine, mica, sericite, talc, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE wax), boron nitride, kaolin, calcium sulfate, pumice, bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide, aluminum oxide, silicon, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, barium chloride, glass particles, zinc oxide, mica and TiO2 particles, barium sulfate, and synthetic mica. In one embodiment, the at least one substantially solid form dispersion aid is silica.In some embodiments, the at least one substantially solid dispersing aid is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, at least one substantially solid dispersing aid is present in an amount of about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0017] In some embodiments, the at least one organic sunscreen active is selected from organic sunscreen actives and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one organic sunscreen active is present in a amount of about 10% to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the at least one organic sunscreen active is present in an amount of about 20% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0018] In various embodiments, the at least one non-volatile solvent is selected from a functionalized or non-functionalized silicon oil, a hydrocarbon oil, and a mixture thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one non-volatile solvent is selected from dicaprylyl ether, a C15-19 alkane, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one non-volatile solvent is present in an amount of about 1% to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0019] In some embodiments, the at least one volatile solvent is present in an amount of about 0.001% to about 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0020] In some embodiments, the at least one emulsifier is present from about 0.5% to about 15%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0021] In some embodiments, the at least one film-forming agent is selected from an acrylates / dimethicone crosslinked polymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) polypropylsil-sesquioxane, an acrylates / poly(trimethyl siloxymethacrylate) copolymer, di-methicone (and) an acrylates / dimethicone copolymer, polypropylsilesquioxane, trimethyl siloxysilicate), Carnauba wax and a mixture thereof.

[0022] In some embodiments, the at least one film former is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0023] In some embodiments, the composition may further include at least one tactile modifier. In some embodiments, the at least one tactile modifier is selected from polymethylsilsesquioxane, nylon-12, nylon-21, silica, and mixtures thereof.

[0024] In some embodiments, the at least one oil phase thickening agent selected from an activated clay and at least one substantially solid form dispersing aid are present in the composition in a weight ratio ranging from greater than or equal to 1:9 to less than or equal to 1:5.

[0025] In some embodiments, the composition may include at least one pigment.

[0026] In some embodiments, the present disclosure relates to a composition organic water-in-oil sunscreen comprising:

[0027] (a) from about 0.1% to about 1.25% by weight of at least one thickening agent of oily phase selected from an activated clay selected from the group consisting of disteardimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite and benzalkonium bentonite;

[0028] (b) from about 1% to about 5% by weight of at least one dispersing aid substantially solid form comprising silica;

[0029] (c) from about 20% to about 40% by weight of at least one sunscreen active organic;

[0030] (d) from about 5% to about 30% by weight of at least one non-volatile solvent;

[0031] (e) from about 3% to about 10% by weight of at least one volatile solvent;

[0032] (f) from about 1% to about 8% by weight of at least one emulsifier; and

[0033] (g) water,

[0034] (h) wherein the weights of (a)-(g) are based on the total weight of the composition; And

[0035] (i) wherein (a) and (b) are present in the composition in a weight ratio ranging from plus 1:10 to less than 1:4; and

[0036] (j) wherein (b) and (c) are present in the composition in a weight ratio ranging from more than 1:30 to less than 1:1.

[0037] The present disclosure also relates to a method of protecting a keratinous substrate against UV rays by topically applying to the substrate a water-in-oil sunscreen composition containing:

[0038] (a) at least one oil phase thickening agent chosen from an activated clay;

[0039] (b) at least one dispersing aid of substantially solid form;

[0040] (c) at least one organic sunscreen active;

[0041] (d) at least one non-volatile solvent;

[0042] (e) at least one volatile solvent;

[0043] (f) at least one emulsifier;

[0044] (g) at least one film-forming agent, and

[0045] (h) water,

[0046] (i) wherein (a) and (b) are present in the composition in a ratio of weight ranging from more than 1:10 to less than 1:4; and

[0047] (j) wherein (b) and (c) are present in the composition in a weight ratio ranging from more than 1:30 to less than 1:1.

[0048] The water-in-oil sunscreen compositions of the present disclosure provide an unexpectedly high degree of sun protection, water resistance, and even distribution of UV filters. The compositions also provide a unique sensory experience, as they are highly spreadable, soft, silky, non-greasy, and non-whitening.

[0049] Without being bound by any theory or mechanism, it is suggested that the platelet structure of the clay traps the sunscreen particles, preventing reagglomeration and sedimentation. Once applied, the yield point is exceeded and The clay structures open, allowing for even spreading of US filters on the skin.

[0050] It should be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are provided by way of example and explanation only, and do not limit the invention. Brief description of the drawings

[0051] Implementations of the present technology will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[0052] [Fig-1] [Fig.l] is a bar graph showing the effectiveness of photo protection of a composition in accordance with the present disclosure with respect to comparative compositions.

[0053] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] is a graph showing absorbance as a function of wavelength of a composition in accordance with the present disclosure relative to a comparative composition.

[0054] It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentalities shown in the figures. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0055] The present disclosure relates to water-in-oil sunscreen compositions comprising:

[0056] (a) at least one oil phase thickening agent chosen from an activated clay;

[0057] (b) at least one dispersing aid of substantially solid form;

[0058] (c) at least one organic sunscreen active;

[0059] (d) at least one non-volatile solvent;

[0060] (e) at least one volatile solvent;

[0061] (f) at least one emulsifier;

[0062] (n) at least one film-forming agent, and

[0063] (p) water,

[0064] wherein (a) and (b) are present in the composition in a weight ratio of from more than 1:10 to less than 1:4; and

[0065] wherein (b) and (c) are present in the composition in a weight ratio ranging from more than 1:30 to less than 1:1.

[0066] Water-in-oil sunscreen compositions simultaneously provide a high degree of sun protection, water resistance and uniform distribution of UV filters. The compositions also offer a unique sensory experience, as they are highly spreadable, soft, silky, non-greasy and non-whitening. ACTIVATED CLAY

[0067] The composition contains at least one oil phase thickening agent chosen among activated clay. The clay is preferably an organoclay dispersed in oil with an organic solvent and an organic activator (polar swelling agent).

[0068] Organoclays generally include the reaction products of bentonite clays and quaternary ammonium salts, hectorite clays and quaternary ammonium salts, or montmorillonite clays and quaternary ammonium salts. The organoclay may be selected from the group consisting of disteardimonium hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quatemium-18 bentonite, quatemium-18 hectorite, and benzalkonium bentonite.

[0069] Suitable organic activators include, but are not limited to, lower monohydric alcohols such as ethanol and isopropyl alcohol; polar esters such as propylene carbonate; water; and the like.

[0070] Suitable organic solvents include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as castor oil and lanolin oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil, petroleum distillates, and isododecane; esters, such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, and C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate; volatile silicones such as cyclomethicone; polymeric silicones such as dimethicone; and the like.

[0071] The organoclay component may be prepared by combining an organoclay, a nonpolar carrier, and a polar swelling agent in a homogenizer-type mixer. Alternatively, commercial preparations comprising organoclays, nonpolar carriers, and polar swelling agents may also be used. Preferably, a bentonite clay, a hectorite clay, and a montmorillonite clay are selected for use in the composition. Most preferably, the clay is a disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, or a gel formed by dispersing fully activated disteardimonium hectorite, a non-animal-derived hectorite organoclay, in isododecane and propylene carbonate, such as those commercially available under the trade name Bentone Gel® (Elementis Specialties, Inc., Hightstown, NJ).

[0072] The activated clay is generally present in the composition of the present disclosure in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 7.5% by weight, such as from about 0.05% to about 2.5% by weight; such as from about 0.1% to about 1.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0073] SUBSTANTIALLY SOLID FORM DISPERSION AID

[0074] The composition also contains at least one dispersion aid of substantially solid form. The dispersion aid may be mineral or organic, and lamellar, in the form of platelets or flakes.

[0075] Dispersing agents generally include talc, mica, barium sulfate, kaolin, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, montmorillonite (e.g. Gel White H from Rookwood Additives), polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) wax particles (e.g. Ceridust 9205 F from Clariant, or Fluoropure 103 C from Shamrock Technologies), calcium sulfate (e.g. Prestia PR306 from Lafarge Prestia), pumice powder (e.g. decontaminated pumice OD from Eyraud), bismuth oxychloride, bismuth oxychloride, perlite (e.g. Optimal430 OR from World Minerais), glass particles in particular of a size of 10 microns and a thickness of approximately 0.4 microns, for example those sold under the references MTD010FYX(6001) or MTD010FYX(6009) by Nippon Sheet Glass, 25 micron in size and about 0.4 micron in thickness,for example those sold under the references MTD025FYX(6002) or MTD025FYX(6010) by Nippon Sheet Glass, silica and titanium dioxide sol / gel particles (for example NLT30H2WA from Nippon Sheet Glass), mica and titanium dioxide particles, for example Blancsealer from Merck.

[0076] The dispersing aid is preferably selected from lauroyl lysine, mica, sericite, talc, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), boron nitride, kaolin, bismuth oxychloride, aluminum oxide, silicon, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, glass particles, zinc oxide, mica-barium sulfate and synthetic mica, silica.

[0077] Most preferably, the dispersing aid is silica.

[0078] It should be noted that the substantially solid form dispersing aid is preferably a platelet-type shape in order to facilitate the inhibition of agglomeration between the organic sunscreen actives present in the composition.

[0079] The substantially solid form dispersing aid is generally present in the composition of the present disclosure in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight; such as from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight; such as from about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0080] Furthermore, it has been especially found that the activated clay and the solid form dispersing agent (particularly silica) should be used in a weight ratio of greater than about 1:4 to less than about 1:10, including ratios of 1:5, 1:6, 1:7, 1:8, 1:9 and less than 1:10. Preferably, the ratio is greater than or equal to 1:5 to less than or equal to about 1:9. UV FILTERS

[0081] UV filters are well known in the art for their use in blocking UV radiation. For example, the UV filter may be one or more organic UV filters and / or one or more inorganic UV filters. Non-limiting examples of UV filters include:

[0082] i. Slightly soluble UV filters (modestly soluble in water or in oil) such as methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, tris-biphenyltriazine, methanone, 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-and mixtures thereof.

[0083] ii. Oil-soluble organic UV filters (at least partially soluble in oil or organic solvent), such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM), oxybenzone, sulfisobenzone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone (DBT), drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT), homosalate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, 4'-methylzylidene camphor, octocrylene (OCR), polysilicone-15, and di-ethylamino hydroxy benzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB);

[0084] iii. Inorganic UV filters such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide; and

[0085] iv. Water-soluble UV filters such as phenolbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA), sulfisobenzone sodium salt, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, benzalkonium camphor methosulfate, cinoxate, disodium phenyl dibenzyl-midazole tetrasulfonate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, PABA and PEG-25 PABA.

[0086] In some cases, the UV filter is one or more of the following derivatives: a para-aminobenzoic acid derivative, a salicylic derivative, a cinnamic derivative, a benzophenone or an aminobenzophenone, an anthranillic derivative, a [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] derivative, a benzylidenecamphor derivative, a phenylbenzimidazole derivative, a benzotriazole derivative, a triazine derivative, a triresorcinyl triazine, an imi-dazoline derivative, a benzalmalonate derivative, a 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivative, a benzoxazole derivative, a merocyanine, a malonitrile or malonate diphenyl butadiene derivative, a chalcone or a mixture thereof.

[0087] Suitable UV filters may include broad spectrum UV filters that protect against both UVA and UVB radiation, or UV filters that protect against either UVA or UVB radiation. In some cases, the one or more UV filters may be methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylphenol, hexyl diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, coated or uncoated zinc oxide, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, polysilicone-15, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, methyl anthranilate, and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA.

[0088] The organic sunscreen active is generally present in the composition of the present disclosure in an amount ranging from about 10% to about 50% by weight; such as from about 15% to about 45% by weight; such as from about 20% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0089] In order to achieve maximum sunscreen effectiveness, the substantially solid form dispersing aid and the organic sunscreen active are preferably employed in a weight ratio of from about 1:30 to 1:1, preferably from about 1:25 to 1:3, and most preferably from about 1:20 to 1:5. NON-VOLATILE SOLVENT

[0090] The composition also contains at least one non-volatile solvent. The non-volatile solvent is preferably chosen from silicone oils, whether functional or not, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof.

[0091] It is also recalled that, within the meaning of the disclosure, the term “non-volatile” generally designates a solvent which remains on the keratinous substrate at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours.

[0092] Examples of suitable non-volatile solvents include, but are not limited to, polar oils and non-polar oils such as:

[0093] - vegetable oils based on hydrocarbons, with a high triglyceride content consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths, these chains being optionally linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, shea butter, castor oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, rye oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, barley oil, safflower oil, bancoul oil, passion flower oil or musk rose oil;or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel;

[0094] - synthetic oils or esters of formula R5COOR6 in which R5 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R6 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, and including, for example, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, a C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters, for example, isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentae- erythritol;

[0095] - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0096] - C8 to C26 fatty alcohols, for example oleyl alcohol; and

[0097] - their mixtures.

[0098] Furthermore, non-volatile oils that may be used in the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, non-polar oils such as branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, including polyolefins, particularly Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydro squalene, and mixtures thereof.

[0099] Examples of non-volatile solvents also include non-volatile silicones such as dimethicone fluids having viscosity values equal to or greater than 300 est.

[0100] Non-volatile silicone oils that may be used include, but are not limited to, linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), which are liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant and / or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for example, phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy-diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl dimethyldiphenyl tri-siloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl tri-siloxane, tetramethyl hexaphenyl trisiloxane.

[0101] The non-volatile solvent is generally present in the composition of the present disclosure in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 50% by weight; such as, from about 3% to about 40% by weight; such as, from about 5% to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. VOLATILE SOLVENT

[0102] The composition also contains at least one volatile solvent.

[0103] The expression “volatile solvent” means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or lips in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0104] Examples of such volatile non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and in particular, C8 to C16 branched alkanes such as C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, oils sold under the brand names Isopar or Permethyl, C8 to C16 branched esters such as isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate, alcohols, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, hydrocarbon oils volatiles have a flash point of at least 40°C.

[0105] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include, but are not limited to, those given in Table 1 below.

[0106] [Tables 1] Compound Flash point (°C) Isododecane 443 Isohexadecane 1102 Isodecyl neopentanoate 1118 Propylene glycol n-butyl ether 660 Ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate 558 Propylene glycol methyl ether acetate 446 Isopar L (Cn-Cu isoparaffin) 62 Isopar H (Cn-Ci2 isoparaffin) 556

[0107] The volatile solvent may also be chosen from volatile silicone oils, which may be linear or cyclic, having a viscosity, at room temperature, less than or equal to 6 cSt, and comprising from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally substituted by alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0108] Examples of suitable volatile silicone oils include, but are not limited to, those listed in Table 2 below.

[0109] [Tables2] Compound Flash point (°C) Viscosity (cSt) Octyltrimethicone 93 1.2 Hexyltrimethicone 79 1.2 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 72 4.2 (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 55 2.5 (cyclotetramethylsiloxane or D4) Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) 93 7 Decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) 63 1.7 Shin Etsu KF-96 A 94 6 Dow Corning PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 (1.5 cSt) 56 1.5 Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (2cSt) 87 2 Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (5cSt) 134 5 Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (3St) from Dow Corning 102 3

[0110] Other examples of volatile silicone oils that can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions according to the disclosure include cyclic volatile silicones. Preferably, the cyclic volatile silicone is cyclopentasiloxane or cy-clohexasiloxane. The following cyclomethicones are examples of commercially available volatile silicone oils: Dow Corning 200, Dow Corning 244, Dow Corning 245, Dow Corning 344 and Dow Corning 345 (commercially available from Dow Corning Corp.); SF-1204 and SF-1202 Silicone Fluids (commercially available from GE Silicones), GE 7207 and 7158 (commercially available from General Electric Co.); and SWS-03314 (commercially available from SWS Silicones Corp.). Other examples of commercially available methyl silsesquioxanes are available under TMF 1.5 fluid from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co; SILCARE SILICONES, for example phenyl-substituted silsesquioxanes available as SILCARE 15M60, n-octyl-substituted silesquioxanes available as SILCARE 31M60 and 31M50, hexylmethicone, caprylylmethicone and lauryl methicone available as SILCARE 41M10, 41M15 and 41M20 respectively from Clariant. [YES] Other suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, organic solvents that are liquid at room temperature. Examples of volatile solvents Suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, ketones such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isoophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone; alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol or cyclohexanol; glycols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol or glycerol; propylene glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol acetate monomethyl ether or dipropylene glycol mono(n-butyl) ether; short-chain esters (having a total of 2 to 7 carbon atoms), such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isopentyl acetate; alkanes, such as decane, desulfane or cyclohexane; aldehydes, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde; and mixtures thereof.Short chain esters (having a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms) are most preferred.

[0112] The volatile solvent may also be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, and their derivatives, such as liquid petroleum jelly and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; branched C8-C16 alkanes or isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, such as, for example, isoparaffins sold under the brand names Isopar by Exxon Chemical or oils sold under the brand names Permethyl by Presperse; and mixtures thereof; volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane and tridecane.

[0113] A volatile linear alkane suitable for disclosure is liquid at room temperature (about 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0114] The term "volatile linear alkane", suitable for disclosure, means a cosmetic linear alkane, which is capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101,325 Pa), which is liquid at room temperature, and in particular having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm2 / min, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0115] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the disclosure have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0116] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the disclosure have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0117] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the disclosure have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0118] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the disclosure have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0119] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the disclosure have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0120] The evaporation rate of a volatile alkane according to the disclosure (and more generally of a volatile solvent) can be evaluated in particular by means of the protocol described in document WO 06 / 013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below.

[0121] 15 g of volatile hydrocarbon solvent are introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm), placed on a scale which is located in a room of approximately 0.3 m3, whose temperature (25 °C) and humidity (50% relative humidity) are regulated.

[0122] The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, ventilation being provided by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the volatile hydrocarbon solvent, the blades being directed towards the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the crystallizer.

[0123] The mass of volatile hydrocarbon solvent remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals.

[0124] The evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the quantities of evaporated product (in mg / cm2) as a function of time (in min).

[0125] Then the evaporation rate, which corresponds to the tangent at the origin of the curve obtained, is calculated. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit of area (cm2) and per unit of time (minutes).

[0126] According to a preferred embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the disclosure have a non-zero vapor pressure (also called saturation vapor pressure) at room temperature, in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 Pa to 6000 Pa.

[0127] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the disclosure have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa at room temperature (25°C).

[0128] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the disclosure have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa at room temperature (25°C).

[0129] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the disclosure have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa at room temperature (25°C).

[0130] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the disclosure have a vapor pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa at room temperature (25°C).

[0131] Preferably, the “volatile linear alkanes” suitable for disclosure have a vapor pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa at room temperature (25°C).

[0132] According to one embodiment, a linear volatile alkane suitable for the disclosure may have a flash point in the range of 30 to 120°C, and more particularly 40 to 100°C. The flash point is notably measured according to ISO 3679.

[0133] The volatile linear alkanes comprise from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, better still from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0134] The volatile linear alkanes in accordance with the disclosure may advantageously be of plant origin.

[0135] According to one embodiment, an alkane suitable for disclosure may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0136] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for disclosure comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0137] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for disclosure comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0138] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for disclosure comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0139] Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for disclosure comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0140] According to an advantageous embodiment, the “volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the disclosure have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm2 / min at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0141] A volatile linear alkane suitable for disclosure may advantageously be of plant origin.

[0142] Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the indications comprises at least one 14C isotope (carbon-14), in particular the 14C isotope may be present in a 14C / 12C ratio greater than or equal to 1 x 10 16, preferably greater than or equal to 1 x 10 15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5 x 10 14, and better still greater than or equal to 1.5 x 10 13. Preferably, the 14C / 12C ratio ranges from 6 x 10 13 to 1.2 x 10 12.

[0143] The quantity of 14C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or even accelerator mass spectrometry.

[0144] These alkanes can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.

[0145] As examples of volatile linear alkanes suitable for disclosure, mention may be made of those described in patent application WO 2007 / 068371 or WO 2008 / 155059 by Cognis (mixtures of different alkanes which differ by at least one carbon).

[0146] These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols themselves derived from coconut oil or palm oil.

[0147] Examples of volatile linear alkane suitable for disclosure include n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (Ci0), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (Cn), n-tetradecane (CM), n-pentadecane (Ci5), n-hexadecane (Ci6) and n-heptadecane (Ci7) and mixtures thereof.

[0148] According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane and their mixtures.

[0149] According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Ci 1) and n-tridecane (Ci3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 by Cognis.

[0150] Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97 respectively, and also mixtures thereof.

[0151] The volatile linear alkane can be used alone.

[0152] Alternatively or preferably, a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes could be used, which differ from each other by a carbon number n of at least 1, in particular which differ from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2.

[0153] According to a first embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms which differ from each other by a number of carbons of at least 1. By way of example, mention may in particular be made of the Cio / Cn, Cn / Ci2 or Ci2 / Ci3 mixtures of volatile linear alkanes.

[0154] According to another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms which differ from each other by a number of carbons of at least 2. By way of example, mention may in particular be made of the Cio / Ci2 or Ci2 / Ci4 mixtures of volatile linear alkanes, for an even number of carbons n and the Cn / Ci3 mixture for an odd number of carbons n.

[0155] According to a preferred embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms which differ from each other by a number of carbons of at least 2, and in particular a mixture Cn / Cn of volatile linear alkanes or a C12 / C14 mixture of volatile linear alkanes.

[0156] Other mixtures combining more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the disclosure, such as a mixture of at least 3 different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms which differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, are also part of the disclosure, but mixtures with 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the disclosure are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and more preferably 99% by weight of the total volatile linear alkane content in the mixture. According to a particular embodiment of the disclosure, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.

[0157] According to another embodiment of disclosure, use is made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in which the volatile linear alkane having the greatest number of carbons is predominant in the mixture.

[0158] As examples of mixtures suitable for disclosure, the following mixtures may in particular be mentioned:

[0159] - from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of volatile linear Cn alkane with n ranging from 7 to 14;

[0160] -from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear alkane in Cn+X with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, with n + x between 8 and 14,

[0161] relative to the total weight of alkanes in said mixture.

[0162] In particular, said mixture of alkanes according to the disclosure contains:

[0163] - less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, of hydrocarbons branched;

[0164] - and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, of hydrocarbons aromatics;

[0165] - and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and preferably typically less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.

[0166] More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the disclosure may be used in the form of an n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.

[0167] In particular, use will be made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising:

[0168] - from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, of linear alkane volatile in Cn (n-undecane);

[0169] - from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of linear alkane volatile in Ci3(n-tridecane)

[0170] relative to the total weight of alkanes in said mixture.

[0171] According to a particular embodiment, the mixture of alkanes is an n- mixture undecane / n-tridecane. In particular, such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of document WO 2008 / 155059.

[0172] According to another particular embodiment, use is made of n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 by Sasol.

[0173] According to another particular embodiment, use is made of n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 by Sasol.

[0174] According to another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane.

[0175] The composition of the disclosure may comprise from 5% to 50% by weight of volatile linear alkane(s), in particular from 5 to 40% by weight of volatile linear alkane(s), and more particularly from 5 to 30% of volatile linear alkane(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] The volatile solvent is generally present in an amount ranging from about 0.001% to 95% by weight; such as from about 1% to 60% by weight; such as from about 3% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. EMULSIFIER

[0177] The composition also contains at least one emulsifier. Suitable emulsifiers that may be used in accordance with the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, non-ionic, cationic, anionic and zwitterionic emulsifiers. Furthermore, suitable emulsifiers according to the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, acetyl lactylates, alkyl phosphates, carboxylic acid copolymers, glucose esters and ethers, glycerin esters, esters of, sorbitan anhydride esters, sorbitol esters, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols, fatty acid amides, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol fatty esters, polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, soaps, alkoxylated polydimethylsiloxanes and mixtures thereof.

[0178] Preferably, the emulsifier is selected from emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomers such as dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosslinked polymer commercially available from Shin-Etsu under KSG-210, dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer commercially available from Shin-Etsu under KSG 710, lauryl PEG-15 dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer commercially available from Shin-Etsu under KSG-31, PEG-12 dimethicone crosslinked polymer commercially available from Dow-Coming under DC 9011. In one embodiment, the compound useful as an emulsifier is dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosslinked polymer. For examples of other suitable emulsifiers that may be used in accordance with the present disclosure, see, for example, McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (2003), Allured Publishing Corporation.

[0179] The compositions according to the disclosure may be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art, in particular those intended for the preparation of emulsions of the oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water and / or water-in-silicone type. They may in particular take the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O / W, W / O, O / W / O, W / O / W and / or W / Si emulsions) such as a cream or a milk, in the form of a gel or cream-gel, or in the form of a lotion, powder or solid tube, and may optionally be packaged in the form of an aerosol and may be in the form of a mousse or spray. These compositions are prepared according to usual methods.

[0180] The compositions according to the disclosure are preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0181] As emulsifying surfactants which can be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, examples which can be mentioned include lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 methicone and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, sorbitan, glycerol or sugar alkyl esters or ethers; silicone surfactants, for example dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and di-methicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning; cetyldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldscht, and the mixture of cetyldimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and hexyl laurate, sold under the name WE Abil 09 by the company Goldschmidt.One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added thereto, which may advantageously be selected from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters. Polyol alkyl esters that may be particularly mentioned include glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, an emulsion stabilizer such as a C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate may also be used.

[0182] The emulsifier is generally present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight; such as from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight; such as from about 1% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. FILM FORMING

[0183] The water-in-oil composition according to the disclosure may also include a film-forming agent. In some embodiments, a suitable example of a film-forming agent includes, but is not limited to, an acrylates / dimethicone copolymer, trime-methylsiloxysilicate (and) polypropylsilesquioxane, an acrylates / poly(trimethyl siloxymethacrylate) copolymer, dimethicone (and) an acrylates / dimethicone copolymer, polypropylsilesquioxane, trimethylsiloxysilicate, a crotonic acid / vinyl isoalkyl esters (C8-12) / Va / bis-vinyldimethicone crosspolymer crosspolymer, and carnauba wax.

[0184] The at least one film former may be present in an amount of about 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0.3%, 0.35%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1%, 1.5%, 2.0% to about 2%, 2.2%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.8%, 3%, 3.5%, 4.0%, 4.5% or 5%. OPTIONAL INGREDIENTS

[0185] TOUCH MODIFIER

[0186] The composition of the present disclosure may also contain at least one tactile modifier. Suitable tactile modifiers include, but are not limited to, nylon, silica, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] PIGMENTS

[0188] The composition of the present disclosure may also contain at least one pigment. Preferably, such colored compositions may be cosmetic compositions such as, for example, lip compositions (e.g., lipstick or liquid lip colors or lip gloss), body tints, bronzers, self-tanners, mascaras, eye shadows, nail polish or foundations.

[0189] According to this embodiment, the at least one pigment is preferably chosen from dyes, such as fat-soluble dyes, pearlescent pigments and pearlescent agents.

[0190] Representative fat-soluble dyes that may be used according to the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, B-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow. Fat-soluble dyes, when present, generally have a concentration of up to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.0001% to 6%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0191] The pearlescent pigments which can be used according to the present invention can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment chosen from those mentioned above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0192] The pigments, which can be used according to the present invention, can be selected from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, non-polymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of inorganic pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum.

[0193] If present, the pigment is generally present in the composition of the present disclosure in an amount ranging from about 0% to about 15% by weight; such as from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight; such as from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

[0194] ACTIVE AGENTS

[0195] The composition of the present disclosure may also contain at least one active agent capable of conferring a benefit to the skin. It is to be understood that the active agents useful herein may, in some instances, provide more than one benefit or function via more than one mode of action. Therefore, the present classifications are made for convenience and are not intended to limit the active to that particular application(s) listed.

[0196] For example, the composition of the present disclosure may contain a safe and therapeutically effective amount of one or more pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable anti-acne active agents. Suitable anti-acne actives include, but are not limited to, resorcinol; sulfur; salicylic acid and salicylates; alpha-hydroxy acids; nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents; benzoyl peroxide; retinoic acid, isoretinoic acid, and other retinoid compounds; adapalene; tazarotene; azelaic acid and azelaic acid derivatives; antibiotic agents, such as erythromycin and clindamycin; zinc salts and complexes; and mixtures thereof.

[0197] For example, the compositions of the present disclosure may contain a safe and effective amount of one or more anti-wrinkle active agents. Suitable anti-wrinkle active agents for use in the compositions of the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, sulfur-containing D- and L-amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly N-acetyl derivatives; thiols; hydroxy acids (e.g., alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives and salts; or beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and salicylic acid salts and derivatives), urea, hyaluronic acid, phytic acid, lipoic acid; lysophosphatidic acid, skin exfoliating agents (e.g., phenol, resorcinol and the like), vitamin B3 compounds (e.g., niacinamide, nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid esters and salts, including non-vasodilating nicotinic acid esters (such as tocopheryl nicotinate), nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide), vitamin B5 and retinoids (e.g., retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl ascorbate).

[0198] The compositions of the present disclosure may contain a safe and effective amount of one or more antioxidants / radical scavengers. Suitable antioxidants / radical scavengers include, but are not limited to, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts; ascorbyl esters of fatty acids; ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl sorbate); tocopherol (vitamin E); tocopherol sorbate; tocopherol acetate; other tocopherol esters; butylated hydroxybenzoic acids and their salts; 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available under the trade name Trolox®); gallic acid and its alkyl esters, in particular propyl gallate; uric acid and its salts and its alkyl esters; sorbic acid and its salts; lipoic acid;amines (e.g., N,N-diethylhydroxylamine, aminoguanidine); sulfhydryl compounds (e.g., glutathione); dihydrogen fumaric acid and its salts; lysine pidolate; arginine pidolate; nordihydroguairetic acid; bioflavonoids; curcumin; lysine; methionine; proline; superoxide dismutase; silymarin; tea extracts; grape skin / seed extracts; melamine; rosemary extracts, brine shrimp extract, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate (such as that sold under the trade name Oxynex ST by Merck), senna alata, and mixtures thereof.

[0199] Among the active agents that may be mentioned are:

[0200] - anti-pollution and / or free radical scavenger agents;

[0201] - depigmentation and / or propigmentation agents;

[0202] - anti-glycation agents;

[0203] - NO-synthase inhibitors;

[0204] - agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation;

[0205] - agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts;

[0206] - agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes;

[0207] - muscle relaxants;

[0208] - tensioning agents;

[0209] - desquamating agents;

[0210] - moisturizers;

[0211] - anti-inflammatory agents;

[0212] - agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells;

[0213] - insect repellents;

[0214] - substance P or CGRP antagonists.

[0215] EMOLLIENTS

[0216] The composition of the present disclosure may contain emollients. Suitable emollients include, but are not limited to, mineral oil; petrolatum; C7-C40 branched chain hydrocarbons; C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids; C1-C30 alcohol esters of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids; monoglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids; diglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids; triglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids; ethylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids; ethylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids; propylene glycol monoesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids; Propylene glycol diesters of CrC30 carboxylic acids; monoesters and polyesters of sugars of CrC30 carboxylic acids, for example, cottonseed polygrainate (sucrose cottonseed polygrainate); polydialkylsiloxanes; polydiarylsiloxanes;polyalkarylsiloxanes; cyclomethicones containing 3 to 9 silicon atoms; vegetable oils; hydrogenated vegetable oils; C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycol; C8-C30 dialkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof.

[0217] SELF-TANNING ACTIVE AGENTS

[0218] The composition of the present disclosure may also contain a self-tanning active agent. Suitable self-tanning agents include, but are not limited to, monocarbonyl or polycarbonyl compounds, such as isatin, alloxan, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, and dihydroxyacetone (DHA).

[0219] SKIN LIGHTENING / WHITENING AGENTS

[0220] The composition of the present disclosure may contain a skin lightening / whitening agent. Suitable skin lightening / whitening agents include, but are not limited to, hydroquinone, azelaic acid and other related dicarboxylic acids, and their salts and derivatives; retinoids; kojic acid; arbutin; nicotinic acid and its precursors, salts and derivatives; arbutin; ascorbic acid and its salts and derivatives (e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate); herbal extracts (e.g., licorice extract, blackberry extract); and mixtures thereof.

[0221] THICKENERS

[0222] Hydrophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopol products (carbomers) and Pemulen products (acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, which are optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, for example poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropaneonic acid) sold by Hoechst under the trade name “Hostacerin AMPS” (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); cellulose-based derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as xanthan gum; and mixtures thereof.

[0223] It goes without saying that the person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds mentioned above and / or their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the compositions in accordance with the disclosure are not, or not significantly, negatively affected by the envisaged addition(s).

[0224] The compositions according to the disclosure find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for protecting and / or caring for the skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for making up the skin and / or lips.

[0225] The present disclosure will be better understood from the following examples, all of which are intended for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to unduly limit the scope of the disclosure in any manner.

[0226] The compositions and methods of the present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

[0227] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

[0228] All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc. In addition, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of subranges therein. Thus, a range of 1-5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

[0229] Except in working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are understood to be modified in all circumstances by the term "about," meaning to within + / -5% of the number indicated.

[0230] As used herein, the term "at least one" is interchangeable with "one or more" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0231] The term "active ingredient," as used herein with respect to the percentage of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% of the activity of the ingredient or raw material.

[0232] “Cosmetically acceptable” means that the article in question is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair. For example, a “cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is compatible with a keratinous substrate such as skin and hair.

[0233] The phrase "a mixture thereof," "mixtures thereof," or "combinations thereof" does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase "one or more of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F."

[0234] Similarly, the phrase "a salt thereof" also refers to "salts thereof." Thus, when the disclosure refers to "a member selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or a mixture thereof," it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

[0235] Salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions is not, however, limiting.

[0236] The term "INCI" is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the Personal Care Products Council's International Nomenclature Committee to describe the ingredients of personal care products.

[0237] The term "weight ratio" or "mass ratio" as used herein refers to the amount of a substance in proportion to a mixture containing said substance, and is calculated by dividing the amount of that substance by weight contained in the mixture by the weight of the mixture containing that substance. For example, a weight ratio of 0.4 for substance A in a mixture of A, B and C indicates that the weight of substance A divided by the total weight of substances A, B and C is 0.4.

[0238] In this document, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate sub-ranges. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as sub-ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.

[0239] Some of the various categories of components identified may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, a fatty acid may be characterized as both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound. If a particular composition includes both a nonionic surfactant and a fatty compound, a single fatty acid will serve only as the nonionic surfactant or the fatty compound (the single fatty acid does not serve as both the nonionic surfactant and the fatty compound). EXAMPLES Example 1 (Inventive Example)

[0240] The following examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to be limiting. Unless otherwise indicated, all parts and percentages are expressed on a weight-by-weight basis.

[0241] The inventive formula was prepared as follows. The oil phase, including the organic sunscreen actives, was mixed while heating in the main pot. Once it reached 75°C and was homogeneous, the oil phase was cooled to <66°C, and the remaining heat-sensitive oil-based ingredients were added to the main pot. Once homogeneous, the oil phase was cooled to <50°C and tactile modifiers were added to the main pot. In a secondary pot, the aqueous phase was mixed and heated to 70°C. Once <50°C, the aqueous phase was added to the oil phase in the main pot under gentle homogenization and cooling was initiated. Once <30°C, the activated clay and other volatile solvents were added to the main pot. The batch was deposited as soon as it reached room temperature and the specifications were measured.

[0242] [Table 3] Inventive Example 1: Water-in-oil sunscreen composition Inventive Example 1 Function INCI Name Concentration, % by weight Clay Disteardimonium Hectorite 0.1 Activating Agent Propylene Carbonate 0.03 Dispersing Agent Silica 5 Organic Sunscreen Active Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 Organic Sunscreen Active Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5 Organic Sunscreen Active Octocrylene 10 Organic Sunscreen Active Homosalate 15 Non-Volatile Solvent Dicaprylyl Ether; C15-19 Alkane 11 Volatile Solvent Alcohol; Isohexadecane 7.87 Emulsifier Lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Methicone; PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate; Poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate 3.62 Film former Acrylates / dimethicone copolymer 2.5 Tactile modifier Polymethylsilsesquioxane 3 Emollient Dicaprylyl carbonate 1 pH regulator pH regulator 0.1 Preservative Preservative 1.6 Salt Salt 0.5 Silicone Silicone 2.5 IP enhancer IP enhancer 5 Vitamin Vitamin 0.5 Water Water QS Example 2 (Comparative examples)

[0243] The following formulas were prepared as described above.

[0244] [Table 4] Comparative examples: Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 INCI Function % by weight % by weight % by weight Clay Disteardimonium Hectorite 0 0.1 0 Activating Agent Propylene Carbonate 0 0.03 0 Dispersing Agent Aluminum Stearate (and) Alumina (and) Polyhydroxy Stearic Acid 0 6.96 0 Organic Sunscreen Active Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 0 3 Organic Sunscreen Active Octocrylene 10 0 10 Organic Sunscreen Active Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5 0 5 Organic Sunscreen Active Homosalate 13 0 13 Non-Volatile Solvent Non-Volatile Solvent 3 20.58 11 Volatile Solvent Volatile Solvent 1 13.08 6.6 Emulsifier Emulsifier 2.3 2.25 4 Film-forming Film-forming 3.2 2.5 0 Touch modifier Touch modifier 5 5.5 3 Emollient Emollient 3 2 1 PH corrector pH corrector 0.35 0 0.1 Preservative Preservative 2.2 1.08 1.3 Salt Salt 0.5 0.5 0.5 Silicone Silicone 4.3 5.75 2.5 SPF Enhancer SPF Enhancer 5 3.1 5 Vitamin Vitamin 2 0.5 0 Thickener Thickener 0.1 0 0 Emulsion Stabilizer Emulsion Stabilizer 2.3 0 0 Filler Filler 0 0.2 0 Mineral Sunscreen Active Zinc Oxide 0 8 0 Mineral Sunscreen Active Titanium Dioxide 0 17 0 Water (QS) QSQSQS Example 3 (Property Assessment) Viscosity measurement

[0245] The apparent viscosity of the formula was measured using a Maple Instruments Rheomat RM 180 viscometer. Smaller spindles were used to measure the apparent viscosity of thicker formulas (M4) while larger spindles (M2) were used to measure the apparent viscosity of thinner formulas. The apparent viscosity was reported in uD and ranges from 20 to 80, with 20 indicating a thinner formula and 80 indicating a thicker formula. The apparent viscosity of Inventive Example 1 was 32 uD measured using an M2 spindle. The apparent viscosities of Comparative Example 1 (lotion consistency) and Comparative Example 2 were 25 (M4) and 37 (M2), respectively. Thus, the apparent viscosities of inventive example 1 and comparative example 2 were comparable while inventive example 1 was significantly more fluid than comparative example 1. See Table 5. Sensory appreciation

[0246] The appearance of the formula was visually assessed and the feel of the formula was appreciated when applying the formula to the skin. A number of subjects tried the formula to provide sensory feedback. The inventive example was a light fluid. It was soft, silky, and highly spreadable. It left a non-greasy residue and was non-whitening. Comparative Example 1 had the consistency of a lotion. It was soft and velvety, giving a non-greasy, non-whitening residue. Comparative Example 2 was a light fluid. It was soft, silky, and highly spreadable, but it was more oily and whitening than the inventive example. See Table 5. In vitro IP and absorbance

[0247] The compositions in the table below were prepared as described above.

[0248] In vitro PI and absorbance versus wavelength in the UV light range were measured using a Labsphere UV-2000S in vitro sunscreen analyzer. 0.03 g of each formula was manually applied to each of 3 PMMA Helioplate molded from PMMA (HD6). Absorbance data were collected using an ISO 24443 method at 9 different locations across each plate, and were used to calculate in vitro PI using Labsphere software.

[0249] The average in vitro IP value of the inventive example was significantly higher than that of comparative example 3 ([Fig.l]; p<0.05). This is explained by the fact that the inventive example provided a better distribution of the UV filters due to the presence of the activated clay + dispersing agent. The plot of absorbance versus wavelength in the UV light range showed better absorption in the UV light range for the inventive example than for comparative example 3 ([Fig.2]), which also supports the fact that inventive example 1 provided a better protection factor. Indeed, the inventive example provided a uniform distribution of the sunscreen filters which enhanced its protection factor.This was demonstrated by comparing the in vitro IP values as well as the absorbance as a function of wavelength in the UV light region profile for the Inventive Example and Comparative Example 3 which had the same composition as the Inventive Example but without the activated clay + dispersing agent.

[0250] The results were reported in Table 6 below.

[0251] [Table 6] In vitro IP values Inventive Example 1 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Structure W / O Emulsion W / O Emulsion H / W Emulsion W / O Emulsion Activated clay + dispersant, ONNO O / N UV Filters Organic Organic Organic Mineral In vitro IP 282 202 267 257 In vivo IP and water resistance

[0252] The static and water resistant IPs were measured in vivo according to the FDA 2011 methods. The minimum erythema dose was determined on the backs of 5 to 10 subjects with and without product to calculate the IP before and after immersion in water. The static and water resistant IPs of the inventive formula are 60 and 60 (water resistance = 80 minutes). These IP values were higher than those of Comparative Example 2 which had a similar formula composition but used mineral sunscreen filters instead of organic sunscreen filters (47 and 49 (water resistance = 40 minutes)).

[0253] The results were reported in Table 5 below.

[0254] [Tables5] Inventive Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Structure W / O emulsion O / W emulsion W / O emulsion W / O emulsion Activated clay + dispersant, Y / NO Viscosity, uD 32 (M2) 25 (M4) 37 (M2) N / A Appearance + sensory Light fluid; Soft, silky, spreadable; Non-greasy Lotion; soft, velvety; non-greasy Light fluid; Soft, silky, spreadable; Non-greasy Whitening None None Moderate None In vivo IP, static 60 83 47 N / A In vivo IP, water resistance (N=5-10) 60 (RE 80 min) 72 (RE 80 min) 49 (RE 40 min) N / AN = number of subjects N=5 N = 10 N=5 N / A

[0255] The results showed unexpected results regarding in vivo IP, water resistance and even UV filter distribution using gold sunscreen actives organics of the inventive example. The inventive example provided a unique sensory experience to the subject, without bleaching, a high in vivo SPF of 60 and a water resistance of 80 minutes.

[0256] The in vitro IP values of inventive example 1 were unexpectedly and significantly improved compared to comparative example 3 which did not contain activated clay + dispersant.

[0257] The IP values as well as the water resistance were unexpectedly and significantly improved compared to Comparative Example 2 which contained activated clay + dispersant but did not contain mineral UV filters.

Claims

Claims

1. A water-in-oil sunscreen composition comprising: (a) at least one oil phase thickening agent selected from an activated clay; (b) at least one substantially solid form dispersing aid; (c) at least one organic sunscreen active; (d) at least one non-volatile solvent; (e) at least one volatile solvent; (f) at least one emulsifier; (g) at least one film former, and (h) water, wherein (a) and (b) are present in the composition in a weight ratio of from more than 1:10 to less than 1:4; and wherein (b) and (c) are present in the composition in a weight ratio of from more than 1:30 to less than 1:

1.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein (a) is selected from Disteardimonium hectorite, Stearalkonium hectorite, Quat-18 bentonite, Quat-18 hectorite, benzalkonium bentonite, bentonite clay, hectorite clay and montmorillonite clay.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein (a) is a propylene carbonate modified disteardimonium hectorite clay.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein (a) is present in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 7.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein (b) is selected from silica, silica sol / gel and TiO2 particles, starch, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, montmorillonite, lauroyl lysine, mica, sericite, talc, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) wax, boron nitride, kaolin, calcium sulfate, pumice, bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide, aluminum oxide, silicon, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, glass particles, zinc oxide, mica and TiO2 particles, barium sulfate and synthetic mica.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein (b) is present in an amount of about 0.1% to approximately 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein (c) is present in an amount of about 10% to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein (d) is selected from a functionalized or non-functionalized silicon oil, a hydrocarbon oil and a mixture thereof.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein (g) is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

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