Cosmetic composition in the form of dry cleansing beads.

Abstract

A cosmetic composition in the form of dry cleansing beads obtained by flash freezing or freezing followed by freeze-drying of a solution, resulting in expanded beads. These beads, through rehydration and mechanical action, produce a cleansing cosmetic product for the skin or hair. The solution composition includes a film-forming agent primarily composed of pullulan combined with other polysaccharides, a plasticizing agent selected from glycols, polyols, and oligosaccharides, a rheological agent consisting of rice starch and microcrystalline cellulose or colloids, as well as anionic surfactants and ingredients or active ingredients known to those skilled in the art for use in cosmetic products.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition in the form of dry cleansing beads. technical field

[0001] The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of dry expanded beads obtained by freeze-drying, the processing of which by rehydration and mechanical action yields a cleansing solution. This addresses the interest shown by the cosmetics industry in anhydrous products due to the reduction in their environmental impact resulting from the decrease in packaging and the amount of water to be transported, as well as the reduction or absence of preservatives. Previous technique

[0002] The manufacture of products in the form of dry beads is widely described in the literature in expanded form, their realization mainly using two families of processes, by extrusion or by freeze-drying.

[0003] Extrusion processes consist of compressing a material, either hot or cold, and can be combined with a chemical or enzymatic reaction. These processes offer a wide range of possible applications in terms of both the shapes and formulations of finished products. The most advanced extruders allow for pressure and temperature control at every point in the process. Pressure control and ingredient mixing are achieved by means of one or more augers. These systems ensure a continuous and cost-effective manufacturing process and also allow for modification of the physicochemical properties of a finished product.

[0004] This technique is notably used in the food industry to produce cereal derivatives such as appetizers or crispbreads of the "cracotte" type (registered trademark), their expanded structure being obtained in particular due to their high polysaccharide content. The ingredients are mixed at a temperature of 60 to 80°C to obtain a thick paste, the temperature is then increased to 120 to 140°C while increasing the pressure to prevent the water present in the product from boiling, which allows the product to expand during extrusion, the rapid decrease in pressure causing the release of the water in gaseous form. (ROUSTEL, S. Extrusion cooking of food. Techniques de l'ingénieur, September 2000, F3120V1, 1-8).

[0005] Freeze-drying processes consist of extracting the water contained in products by causing the sublimation of the water they contain by placing them, previously frozen, in a vacuum chamber. Initially, an aqueous solution, generally containing polysaccharides, is poured into molds of the desired shape, or dripped and precipitated into a liquid. It is then frozen at a temperature of approximately -25°C to -40°C, and then placed under vacuum while being moderately warmed to remain below the triple point of water, thus allowing sublimation of the water without altering the network previously formed by the polysaccharides in solution. (MARIN, M. and RENE, F. Lyophilisation. Techniques de l'ingénieur, March 2000, F3240V1, 1-9).

[0006] Notwithstanding the specific form of the invention, products of this type are similar, in terms of physicochemical properties, to products in the form of water-soluble films. Numerous studies relating to the formulation of water-soluble films have been described; these are notably used in cosmetics for their adhesive properties, tensile strength, oxidation barrier effect, film-forming properties, and tightening effect. However, in this field, very few studies have been reported concerning expanded water-soluble films.

[0007] The properties of these films are evaluated by two types of measurements: 1. The dissolution / recovery time in aqueous media. This factor allows for the evaluation of the film's resistance to the ambient humidity level. Since cosmetic applications require rapid and simple dissolution to allow consumers easy use of the finished product, it is necessary to find a balance between recovery speed and ease of use (SAINI, S et al. Optimization of formulation of fast dissolving films made of pullulan polymer. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences Review and Research, August 2011, 9(1), 127-131). 2. The film's resistance to stretching / torsion. This factor improves the film's grip for the consumer. It is characterized by tensile strength (θ) and elongation modulus (ε), as well as breaking strength (JOST, V. and STRAMM, C. Influence of plasticizers on the mechanical and barrier properties of cast biopolymer films. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2015, 133(2)). And (KARKI, S. et al. Thin films as an emerging platform for drug delivery. Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, October 2016, 11(5), 559-574).

[0008] Furthermore, it is possible to manipulate the film's thickness and composition. The formulation of water-soluble films is well known to those skilled in the art in the medical field, where this formulation is used as a means of releasing active molecules. It relies on the synergistic relationships between film-forming molecules such as polysaccharides or proteins and plasticizing molecules such as certain oligosaccharides or glycols (SANYANG, ML et al. Effect of glycerol and sorbitol plasticizers on physical and thermal properties). of sugar palm starch based films. Recent Advances in Environment, Ecosystems and Development, April 2015, 157-162). Polysaccharides form a structured three-dimensional network, which allows the formation of a cohesive film when the solvent evaporates, while plasticizers give this film the desired mechanical characteristics, including its flexibility and texture.

[0009] Among film-forming compounds, pullulan is one of the most widely used polysaccharides for the formulation of water-soluble films, due to its high solubility and plasticity, which facilitates product formulation by limiting the addition of plasticizing agents. It is a glucose homopolysaccharide branched at α(λ-6)-linked maltotriose, obtained by fermentation of wheat starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. (LEATHERS, T. Biotechnological production and applications of pullulan. Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology, June 2003, 62:468-473.).

[0010] However, many other polysaccharides are known to be used in the formulation of water-soluble films, allowing for different characteristics, including starches, alginates, carrageenans, and cellulose derivatives such as hydroxymethylcellulose. The article (FERREIRA, A. et al. Polysaccharide-based membranes in food packaging applications. Membranes, April 2016, 6(2), 1-17.) details their main characteristics.

[0011] The compounds used as plasticizers have a lower steric bulk, which allows them to fit within the network formed by the polysaccharides, modifying the resistance, elasticity, flexibility, appearance and dissolution rate of the film. Among these we can include glycols, such as glycerin and polyethylene glycol, oligosaccharides such as sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol (SOTHORNVIT, R. and KROCHTA, J. Plasticizers in edible films and coatings. Innovations in Food Packaging, 2005, 403-433.) and (The glass transition. University of Mississippi. 1998). Furthermore, colloids such as silicas and clays can be used in a limited way, because not contributing to the formation of a gelled network, they tend to weaken the dehydrated film, and consequently decrease the glass transition temperature.

[0012] Regarding the production of beads, unlike water-soluble films where the incorporation of colloidal particles negatively impacts film stability, the incorporation of colloids makes it possible to lighten the matrix network generated by the polysaccharides. Indeed, the nature of a colloidal dispersion (MONGONDRY, P. Structure and rheological behavior of aqueous suspensions of Laponite in the presence of several additives. Data analysis, Statistics and Probabilities, Doctoral thesis in chemistry and physical chemistry of polymers, University of Maine, Le Mans, June 2003, 6-20.) implies particular rheological properties such as significant shear thinning as well as thixotropy allowing, for example, better spraying of high viscosity colloidal suspensions.

[0013] Regarding the production of expanded beads in the cosmetics field, their specificity lies essentially in the mechanical process used to give the product its physical shape. Few publications report such products, among which we can, however, mention: 1. Patent application CN109350555 A (JIANGSU JLAND BIOTECH CO) February 19, 2019, claim 7, paragraphs

[0032] to

[0043] discloses a process for manufacturing collagen beads using a freeze-drying technique, but differs significantly in the composition of the product from the present invention, notably using fermentation techniques, and furthermore does not precisely describe the bead formation technique or the freeze-drying conditions. 2. Patent application CN112891230 A (GUANGZHOU RIDGEPOLE BIOLOGICAL TECH CO) June 4, 2021, claims 1 to 9, paragraphs

[0005] to

[0083] , discloses the formulation and manufacturing process of cosmetic beads obtained by a freeze-drying process, and comprising, in particular, a polyol such as sorbitol and a polysaccharide, including pullulan.The composition is implemented by preparing a solution, which is frozen at -45°C in a hemispherical mold and lyophilized under a vacuum of 10 to 30 Pa. This patent application differs, however, from the present invention in that its subject matter does not concern the composition of products for making beads whose implementation yields a cleaning product, and the composition does not mention the use of a plasticizing agent such as glycerin; furthermore, this application also does not report the use of colloids in the formulations described. 3. Patent KR102187653 B1 (BEAUTIFUL KOREA CO) August 27, 2020, claims 1, 18 and 19, paragraphs

[0007] to

[0073] , discloses a lyophilized cosmetic composition that can be in spherical form. However, this patent differs from the present invention in that it relates to mannitol- and hyaluronic acid-based products intended for the production of moisturizing and anti-wrinkle products.

[0014] To the applicant company's knowledge, there is no publication describing the formulation and manufacture of expanded beads allowing the obtaining of a cleaning solution after rehydration. Description of the invention

[0015] The present invention, which relates to the production of dry cleaning beads obtained by freeze-drying, will consist in its first step in the production of an aqueous solution intended to be lyophilized, the composition of which will, on the one hand, provide the desired physico-chemical characteristics for dry, re-hydratable cleaning beads that can be implemented by mechanical action, and on the other hand, the viscosity will be compatible with the formation of drops according to the manufacturing process.

[0016] The second step of the freeze-drying process will consist of freezing this solution under conditions that allow the formation of beads. Preferably, a system is used that delivers the solution dropwise in liquid nitrogen at a temperature of -196°C, which allows the beads to solidify through ultra-rapid freezing. This system involves sending the solution through a manifold with several nozzles whose geometry, particularly their shape and the size of their outlet orifices, is adapted to the rheology of the solution and its flow rate through these nozzles, in order to obtain droplets of the desired diameter, which will be between 1 and 8 millimeters, depending on the desired characteristics of the final product. Preferably, a viscosity of between 1000 and 30000 mPa is used.s will be sought, and nozzles with a diameter between 1 and 6 mm and a flared outlet will be used, a bead size of around 5 to 8 mm corresponding to the order of magnitude of the maximum size that can be obtained by this process.

[0017] Secondarily, another embodiment of the invention consists of pouring the solution into spherical or hemispherical molds, these molds then being frozen by cooling, which allows the obtaining of balls of a larger diameter, between 5 mm and 25 mm.

[0018] Finally, the manufacturing process includes a third step, freeze-drying, during which the previously obtained product beads, maintained at a very low temperature, are introduced into the freeze dryer, then exposed to a vacuum and slightly warmed for the time required for the freeze-drying process. Preferably, vacuum conditions between 2 and 25 Pa, a loading temperature between -50 and -150 °C, a warming temperature between 25 °C and 50 °C, and a freeze-drying time between 2 and 16 hours are used, with a condenser at a temperature between -30 and -80 °C, the exact conditions depending on the quantity of beads to be processed and the dimensional and functional characteristics of the freeze dryer.

[0019] The dry expanded beads obtained after this freeze-drying step can be used by placing them in the palm of the hand, then pouring 1 to 5 ml of water over them, and then rubbing the two hands together, causing the beads to break down and obtaining the desired cleaning action.

[0020] The object of the present invention being the design of dry cleaning beads, the composition of the solution comprises one or more surfactants, at an overall content of between 0.1 and 10%. These will preferably be chosen from compounds that are in pure form and at room temperature in powder form, this being the physical form most easily compatible with the final production of dry and solid beads capable of being rehydrated.

[0021] Among these surfactants, a mixture of non-ionic and anionic surfactants will be used, which will preferably be chosen from sodium cocoyl derivatives, in particular mild foaming anionic surfactants derived from sodium cocoyl, such as sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl glutamate or disodium lauryl succinate, which can be used in association with non-ionic surfactants to overcome the irritating aspect of anionics.

[0022] In a variant of the invention, for obtaining shampoo, cationic surfactants may also be used, preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium compounds such as polyquaternium-7.

[0023] As in the aforementioned prior art, a film-forming agent consisting of polysaccharides will be used, enabling the obtaining, after lyophilization, of a fine, water-soluble, three-dimensional matrix network; its constituents will be chosen from pullulan, alginates, carrageenans, xanthan or guar gums or cellulose, alone or in mixture, their overall content being between 0.5 and 10%.

[0024] Preferably, but not exclusively, pullulan will be used at a concentration of between 0.5% and 5%, due to this compound's particular ability to achieve physicochemical characteristics closest to those desired: slightly sticky on the skin and offering a good compromise between flexibility and brittleness during mechanical application of the final product to the skin or hair. Regarding the other polysaccharides mentioned above, which can be used in conjunction with pullulan, their overall concentration will be between 0.1% and 5%; preferably, xanthan, guar, or cellulose gums will be used.

[0025] As in the prior art, in order to improve the mechanical characteristics of the balls, in particular their flexibility and texture, a plasticizing agent is used, chosen from glycols and polyols, such as glycerin, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, or oligosaccharides such as sucrose, at an overall content of between 0.5 and 10%.

[0026] Preferably, a mixture of glycerin with a content of between 0.5 and 3%, and erythritol with a content of between 0.5 and 3%, will be used, due to the particularly favorable effect of this polyol on the softness of the texture of the final product.

[0027] As expected given the prior art, the rheological characteristics of the product can be improved by adding a colloidal rheological agent, thereby enhancing its ability to form large droplets. However, the applicant company unexpectedly discovered that adding a specific mixture consisting of microcrystalline cellulose or colloids such as silica or clay, on the one hand, and starch powder, on the other, improves the rehydration capacity of the final product, whereas using only a gelling agent made of polysaccharides can only improve the rheology at the cost of degrading these rehydration characteristics. This rheological agent will be included in the composition at an overall concentration of between 0.1 and 10%.

[0028] Preferably, the chosen rheological agent will be composed of a mixture of starch with a content between 2.5 and 7%, associated with microcrystalline cellulose or bentone, with a content between 0.25 and 1.5%.

[0029] Finally, the composition will include ingredients or active ingredients whose use is known to those skilled in the art for cosmetic products, such as colorants, perfumes, active ingredients and preservatives. Description of the implementation methods

[0030] Thus, this work has led to the production of dry cleaning beads, with a diameter between 1 and 8 mm or between 6 and 25 mm depending on the variant of the manufacturing process used, which can be easily used by placing them in the palm of the hand and disintegrating spontaneously or by mechanical action of a finger in the presence of a few milliliters of water, and consequently allowing effective cleaning of the hands, of any other part of the body, including the hair.

[0031] Formulas and manufacturing methods are now given as examples. Examples

[0032] Example 1. Step 1 - Preparation of the freeze-drying solution Procedure: (1) Place the water, colorant, rice extract, pullulan, erythritol, alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, and rice starch in a mixer and shake until homogenized. (2) Pre-disperse the xanthan and cellulose gums, and the crystalline cellulose in glycerin, then add to the previous phase, mixing vigorously until homogenized and a smooth, homogeneous gel is obtained. Next, add the disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and sodium cocoyl isethionate while stirring slowly, followed by the fragrance. Finally, adjust the pH to between 4.5 and 6.5 with citric acid solution. The viscosity of the resulting solution should be between 1000 and 6000 mPa·s. Ingredients % WATER 82.784 COLOR 0.015 RICE EXTRACT 0.100 PULLULAN 0.900 ERYTHRITOL 1.500 ALPHA-GLUCANE OLIGOSACCHARIDE 0.500 RICE STARCH 5.000 CELLULOSE GUM 0.290 XANTHAN GUM 0.200 MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE 0.510 GLYCERIN 1.500 DISODIUM LAURYL SULFOSUCCINATE 3.700 SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE 2.600 FRAGRANCE 0.400 CITRIC ACID 5% 0.001 100.00

[0034] Step 2 – Lyophilization Introduce the solution at an adjusted flow rate to allow drip flow into a liquid nitrogen bath at -196°C, using a peristaltic pump and a nozzle array with flared outlet orifices, which ensures the near-instantaneous formation of frozen beads approximately 5 mm in size. Next, retrieve the frozen beads and place them in a freeze dryer with a loading temperature of -120°C. Then apply a vacuum of 10 Pa, followed by a temperature of 30°C, with the condenser maintained at a temperature of -65°C. These conditions are maintained for a period of 12 hours, after which the freeze-dried beads can be retrieved.

[0035] Description of the implementation for use. Place a ball in the palm of your hand and add a few milliliters of water. Rub the ball between your hands until it dissolves, providing the desired cleaning action. Rinse after use.

[0036] Example 2. Step 1 - Preparation of the freeze-drying solution Procedure: (1) Place water, colorant, lotus extract, pullulan, xylitol, Saccharomyses cerverisae yeast extract, and potato starch in a mixer and stir until homogenized. (2) Predisperse cellulose gum, brown algae extract, and microcrystalline cellulose in butylene glycol and add to the previous phase, mixing vigorously until a smooth, homogeneous gel is obtained. Then add disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and sodium cocoyl isethionate while stirring slowly, followed by the fragrance. Finally, adjust the pH to between 4.5 and 6.5 with citric acid solution. The viscosity of the resulting solution is in the range of 1000 to 6000 mPa·s.

[0037] [Table 2] Ingredients % WATER 83.539 COLORANT 0.010 LOTUS EXTRACT 0.100 PULLULAN 0.800 XYLITOL 1.700 SACCHAROMIZED YEAST EXTRACT CEREVIS AE 0.100 POTATO STARCH 4.000 CELLULOSE GUM 0.100 BROWN ALGAE EXTRACT 0.250 MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE 0.450 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 1.500 DISODIUM LAURYL SULFOSUCCINATE 4.000 SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE 3.100 PARFUM 0.350 LACTIC ACID 50% 0.001 100.00

[0038] Step 2 – Lyophilization Introduce the solution at an adjusted flow rate to allow drip flow into a liquid nitrogen bath at -196°C, using a peristaltic pump and a nozzle array with flared outlet orifices, which ensures the near-instantaneous formation of frozen beads approximately 5 mm in size. Next, retrieve the frozen beads and place them in a freeze dryer with a loading temperature of -120°C. Then apply a vacuum of 10 Pa, followed by a temperature of 30°C, with the condenser maintained at a temperature of -65°C. These conditions are maintained for a period of 12 hours, after which the freeze-dried beads can be retrieved.

[0039] Description of the implementation for use. Place a ball in the palm of your hand and add a few milliliters of water. Rub the ball between your hands until it dissolves, providing the desired cleaning action. Rinse after use.

[0040] Example 3. Step 1 - Preparation of the freeze-drying solution Procedure: (1) Place the water, colorant, green tea extract, pullulan, mannitol, flaxseed extract, and rice starch in a mixer and shake until homogenized. (2) Pre-disperse the guar gum, red algae extract, and hydrophilic bentonite in the butylene glycol, then add to the previous phase, mixing vigorously until homogenized. In a second mixer, gradually add the butylene glycol until a smooth, homogeneous gel is obtained. Next, slowly stir in the disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium methyl oleyl taurate, and 2-propenamide copolymer, followed by the fragrance. Finally, adjust the pH to between 4.5 and 6.5 with the citric acid solution. The viscosity of the resulting solution should be between 1000 and 6000 mPa·s.

[0041] [Tables3] Ingredients % WATER 81.883 COLOR 0.017 GREEN TEA EXTRACT 0.100 PULLULAN 1.100 MANNITOL 1.200 LINSEED EXTRACT 0.500 RICE STARCH 3.000 GUAR GUM 0.200 RED ALGAE EXTRACT 0.500 HYDROPHILIC BENTONITE 1.000 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 1.500 DISODIUM LAURYL SULFOSUCCINATE 3.500 SODIUM METHYL OLEYL TAURATE 2.200 2-PROPENAMIDE AND N,N-DIMETHYL-N-2-PROPENYL-2-PROPEN-L-AMINIUM COPOLYMER 1.500 FRAGRANCE 0.500 CITRIC ACID 35% 0.300 100.00

[0042] Step 2 – Lyophilization Introduce the solution at an adjusted flow rate to allow drip flow into a liquid nitrogen bath at -196°C, using a peristaltic pump and a nozzle array with flared outlet orifices, which ensures the near-instantaneous formation of frozen beads approximately 5 mm in size. Next, retrieve the frozen beads and place them in a freeze dryer with a loading temperature of -120°C. Then apply a vacuum of 10 Pa, followed by a temperature of 30°C, with the condenser maintained at a temperature of -65°C. These conditions are maintained for a period of 12 hours, after which the freeze-dried beads can be retrieved.

[0043] Description of the implementation for use. Place a marble in the palm of your hand and add a few milliliters of water. Rub the marble between your hands until it It will crumble, then apply to the hair by rubbing, which provides the cleansing action desired for a shampoo. Rinse after application.

[0044] Example 4. Step 1 - Preparation of the freeze-drying solution Procedure: (1) Place the water, rice extract, pullulan, sorbitol, alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, corn starch, and colloidal silica in a mixer and shake until homogenized. (2) Place the glycerin in a second mixer, then gradually add the xanthan gum, cellulose gum, and microcrystalline cellulose, mixing vigorously until homogenized. Add this mixture (2) to mixture (1), stirring continuously until a smooth, homogeneous gel is obtained. Next, add the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl glutamate while stirring slowly, followed by the fragrance. Finally, adjust the pH to between 4.5 and 6.5 with the citric acid solution. The viscosity of the resulting solution should be between 1000 and 6000 mPa·s.

[0045] [Tables4] Ingredients % WATER 82.099 RICE EXTRACT 0.100 PULLULAN 0.900 COLLOIDAL SILICA 2.000 ALPHA-GLUCANE OLIGOSACCHARIDE 0.500 CORN STARCH 5.000 CELLULOSE GUM 0.290 XANTHAN GUM 0.200 MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE 0.510 GLYCERIN 1.500 SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINATE 4.000 SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE 2.500 FRAGRANCE 0.400 CITRIC ACID 5% 0.001 100.00

[0046] Step 2 – Lyophilization Pour the solution into 20 mm diameter hemispherical molds and freeze them at -40°C for two hours. Assemble the hemispheres in pairs, then allow them to stand at room temperature for 20 minutes before removing one of the two hemispherical molds. Next, place the remaining hemispheres, containing the frozen beads, in a freeze dryer with a loading temperature of -120°C. Apply a vacuum of 10 Pa, then a temperature of 30°C, with the condenser maintained at -65°C. These conditions are maintained for 16 hours, after which the freeze-dried beads can be retrieved.

[0047] Description of the implementation for use. Place a ball in the palm of your hand and add a few milliliters of water. Rub the ball between your hands until it dissolves, providing the desired cleansing action. Rinse after use.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic cleansing composition consisting of dry expanded beads obtained by freezing and then lyophilizing an aqueous solution, characterized in that the solution comprises: a. A film-forming agent composed of polysaccharides chosen from pullulan, alginates, carrageenans, xanthan or guar gums or cellulose gums, alone or as a mixture, at an overall content of between 0.5 and 10%. b. A plasticizing agent chosen from glycols, polyols, oligosaccharides, alone or as a mixture, at an overall content of between 0.5 and 10%. c. A rheological agent consisting of a mixture comprising, on the one hand, alone or as a mixture, microcrystalline cellulose or colloids such as silicas or clays, and on the other hand a starch powder, at an overall content of between 0.1 and 10%. d. A mixture of surfactants in a proportion between 0.1 and 10%, preferably chosen from powders.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polysaccharide of the solution is composed of pullulan at a content of between 0.5 and 5%, combined with xanthan gum or guar gum or cellulose, alone or as a mixture, the overall content of which is between 0.1 and 5%.

3. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that the plasticizing agent of the solution is composed of a mixture of glycerin at a content of between 0.5 and 3% and erythritol at a content of between 0.5 and 3%.

4. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that the rheological agent of the solution is composed of starch at a content of between 2.5 and 7%, associated with microcrystalline cellulose or bentone at a content of between 0.25 and 1.5%.

5. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that the mixture of surfactant products consists of non-ionic surfactants and anionic surfactants. preferentially chosen from sodium cocoyl derivatives or disodium lauryl succinate, such as sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl glutamate or disodium lauryl succinate.

6. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant system further comprises a cationic surfactant, preferably chosen from quaternary ammoniums.

7. Process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a. The production of the aqueous solution. b. The deep-freezing or freezing of this aqueous solution in the form of beads, either by a system delivering the solution drop by drop in liquid nitrogen, or by pouring the solution into spherical molds which are then frozen. c. The lyophilization of these beads.

8. Use of a cosmetic composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that the beads are placed in the palm of a hand, then rehydrated and disintegrated by adding 1 to 5 ml of water and rubbing the hands.