SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING SUNFLOWER WAX, HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL, A NON-VOLATILE OIL AND METHOD FOR USING IT

Abstract

Title: SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING SUNFLOWER WAX, HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL, A NON-VOLATILE OIL AND METHOD FOR IMPLEMENTING IT The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one waxy system comprising at least sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil: - the sunflower wax content representing 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - the hydrogenated jojoba oil content representing 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - the sunflower wax and the hydrogenated jojoba oil representing more than 80% by weight of the waxy system, - the total wax content being between 7 and 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.It also relates to a process for making up / and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, consisting of applying said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING SUNFLOWER WAX, HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL, A NON-VOLATILE OIL AND METHOD FOR USING IT

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid composition intended to be applied to the skin and / or the lips, more particularly for makeup and / or care, in the form of a stick, and comprising particular vegetable waxes, as well as a process implementing it.

[0002] Cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the skin and / or lips, in particular for care and / or makeup, have been known for a very long time and are in the form of more or less thick fluids. Thus, in the more particular case of compositions for the lips, the compositions can take low-viscosity galenic forms, such as oils and glosses, up to solid compositions in the form of a stick, supported or not, compositions in the form of a pencil, or even compositions stored in pots.

[0003] The compositions can also be anhydrous or be in the form of emulsions, direct (oil-in-water) or inverse (water-in-oil).

[0004] The present invention relates more particularly to compositions in the form of a stick comprising little or no water.

[0005] Thanks to the use of film-forming products, in particular silicone products, the compositions have improved their usage properties, such as increased hold and reduced migration.

[0006] The compositions also make it possible to obtain matte, satin, shiny finishes depending again on the ingredients present, such as, for example, silicone or non-silicone volatile oils, mineral or organic fillers.

[0007] In recent years, a new trend has clearly emerged among consumers who are turning less exclusively, but still present nonetheless, to the performance of makeup composition. Indeed, more and more attention is being paid to the ingredients used, their natural character in particular.

[0008] The present invention is part of this trend and therefore relates more particularly to solid compositions, in particular for makeup and / or care, especially for the lips, favoring the use of compounds of natural origin, in particular plant origin. In addition, the compositions according to the invention advantageously make it possible to limit the content of ingredients, in particular derived from petroleum chemistry, such as hydrocarbon-type oils, apolar hydrocarbon waxes such as polyethylene, polymethylene waxes, as well as silicone ingredients.

[0009] One of the difficulties encountered with ingredients of natural origin is that natural waxes, due, among other things, to their affinity with vegetable oils, do not always structure the latter correctly, leading to sticks that are too soft or too hard, not allowing satisfactory application of the composition and / or causing the stick to break. This phenomenon is also impacted by the presence of pigments in the composition.

[0010] The objectives of the present invention are therefore to provide solid cosmetic compositions, in the form of a stick, the content of ingredients from the petroleum industry of which is limited or even zero, which have suitable mechanical properties for easy, regular and sufficient application of the composition, without causing breakage of the stick. In addition, the deposit obtained must remain comfortable, non-drying and little migrating, in particular in the wrinkles and fine lines around the lips and eyes.

[0011] These and other aims are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a solid cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one waxy system comprising at least sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil: - the sunflower wax content representing 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,, - the hydrogenated jojoba oil content representing 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil representing more than 80% by weight of the wax system, - the total wax content being between 8 and 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] It also relates to a process consisting of applying said composition to the skin and / or the lips, in particular for makeup and / or care.

[0013] The composition according to the invention is therefore in a solid form, more particularly in the form of a stick, which has the advantage of having an appropriate hardness compatible with easy application of the composition, without breakage of the stick. Furthermore, the quantity deposited on the lips is appropriate, neither too low nor too high, to have an appropriate makeup result, in a few passes. In addition, the deposit obtained is precise, homogeneous, not very sticky, not very migrating and has satisfactory hold over time. The deposit also does not dry out the lips and remains comfortable.

[0014] These and other advantages of the present invention will become more clearly apparent from the reading the description and examples that follow.

[0015] Note that in the remainder of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits indicated for a domain are included in this domain.

[0016] The expressions “at least one” and “several” are used interchangeably.

[0017] Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by total weight of the composition. Protocol for hardness measurement

[0018] The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol: The stick is kept at 20°C for 16 hours before measuring the hardness. Hardness is measured at 20°C by the so-called "butter wire cutting" method, which consists of cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical in revolution, transversely using a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 0.25 mm, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. The hardness of the samples, expressed in Nm1, is measured using a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by the company INDELCO-CHATILLON. The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newtons and then divided by L, which represents the largest dimension crossed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters). The hardness is converted into Nm 1 by the equation opposite: (Y x 103 x 9.8) / L.

[0019] According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 90 and 220 Nm ', preferably 90 and 160 Nm1. Protocol for measuring the quantity deposited:

[0020] The measurement is carried out using a dynamic fragility device from the company Rematique Electronique Industrielle. The test consists of evaluating the quantity of composition deposited on a given support, after having moved the stick positioned flat and parallel on the support, by applying a pressure at the end of the stick of between 75 and 80g, making a return trip per second at constant speed for 3 minutes. The quantity deposited is directly calculated by weighing the red stick and the packaging mechanism (without the cap) before and after measurement on a precision scale. This test also allows you to visually assess the resistance of the lipstick (cracks, breaks, loss of alignment, loosening, etc.).

[0021] Measurement conditions: Lipstick stick with a diameter of 12.7mm, with a beveled shape (presence of a cut-off edge), the grape not being supported by a cap. For the measurement, the stick is extended as far as possible from the packaging mechanism. The lipstick to be tested is placed in a thermostatically controlled chamber at 20°C, 16 hours before the measurement. Test temperature 20°C. Force applied: 75 to 80 g at the end of the stick. Support for measurement: roll of paper for dynamic fragility device, supplier Rematique Electronique Industrielle (dimensions of the support for the test: 9 cm x 4.6 cm).

[0022] According to this measuring method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a quantity of composition deposited at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 8 and 35 mg.

[0023] Protocol for measuring the melting temperature of a wax

[0024] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999.

[0025] The melting point of a solid fatty body can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC 2000” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis”.

[0026] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed. WAX SYSTEM

[0027] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one waxy system comprising at least sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0028] The composition may optionally comprise at least one additional wax, different from the two waxes mentioned previously, which will be detailed later.

[0029] By “waxy system” is meant all the waxes, i.e. sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and any additional waxes, present in the composition according to the invention.

[0030] In addition, the sunflower wax and the hydrogenated jojoba oil represent more than 80% by weight of the wax system, and advantageously up to 100% by weight of the wax system. Preferably, the sunflower wax and the hydrogenated jojoba oil represent from 85 to 95% by weight of the wax system.

[0031] Preferably, the sunflower wax represents between 20 and 95% by weight of the wax system and the hydrogenated jojoba oil represents between 5 and 80% by weight of the wax system.

[0032] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrogenated jojoba oil / sunflower wax weight ratio varies from 0.15 to 7.5, even more particularly from 0.15 to 5.

[0033] It should be noted that the total wax content represents from 7 to 16% by weight, and preferably from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. SUNFLOWER WAX

[0034] Sunflower wax (INCI name: HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) is obtained by cooling (winterization) sunflower seed oil, filtering and finally refining. It is marketed in particular by the company Koster Keunen.

[0035] It is in the form of a solid with a melting temperature of between 74 and 77°C. It is mainly made up of saturated monoesters comprising 42 to 62 carbon atoms.

[0036] More particularly, the composition according to the invention has a sunflower wax content of between 1.5 and 8% by weight, in particular between 1.8 and 8% by weight, preferably between 2 and 7% by weight, or even between 2 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL

[0037] Hydrogenated jojoba oil, with the INCI name Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, is more particularly obtained by catalytic and total hydrogenation of jojoba oil obtained from the seeds of Simmondsia Chinensis. Total hydrogenation means obtaining a compound whose iodine index value is less than 2.

[0038] Hydrogenated jojoba oil is in the form of a solid with a melting point of between 67 and 72°C, more particularly 68 to 71°C.

[0039] Hydrogenated jojoba oil consists primarily of saturated monoesters, comprising 36 to 48 carbon atoms.

[0040] It is notably marketed by the company Vantage Speciality Chemicals under the commercial reference Desert Whale Jojoba Wax Flakes.

[0041] More particularly, the composition according to the invention has a hydrogenated jojoba oil content of between 2 and 12% by weight, more particularly between 3 and 11% by weight, preferably between 3 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL WAXES

[0042] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional wax, different from sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0043] This or these optional waxes may be polar or apolar.

[0044] More particularly, it is recalled that a wax is generally a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (20°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 40°C and less than or equal to 120°C, more particularly less than or equal to 90°C. Polar waxes

[0045] By "polar hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one oxygen atom, possibly nitrogen. These compounds therefore do not contain any silicon atom.

[0046] More particularly, the additional polar hydrocarbon wax, different from hydrogenated jojoba oil and sunflower wax, is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, comprising an ester function.

[0047] According to the invention, the term “ester wax” means a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

[0048] Among the hydrocarbon polar waxes which can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, alone or in mixtures:

[0049] (i) Waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent ali chains linear, branched or cyclic phatics whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting temperature varies from 40 to 120°C, preferably from 40 to 100°C. In particular, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate, may be used as ester wax. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names KESTER WAX® K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, KESTER WAX® K 80 P, or KESTER WAX® K82H by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. Mixtures of CM -Ci8 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols may also be used, such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, SP Crodamol MS MB AL, Crodamol MS PA from the company CRODA, Miraceti from the company LASERSON.

[0050] ii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4 -COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated. iii) Partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol, such as, for example, glyceryl tristearate (INCI name: TRISTEARIN), glyceryl tristearate (INCI name: TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN), glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: TRIBEHENIN), alone or as a mixture.

[0051] iv) Waxes of animal or vegetable origin, other than sunflower wax. Examples of suitable waxes include beeswax, lanolin wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, bay leaf wax, whether refined or not, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] v) Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin (such as, for example, lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, myristyl, behenyl alcohols) and vegetable oil, such as olive oil, castor oil. More particularly, mention may be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having in particular linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil. As waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil, we can also cite the waxes with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Stearyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Behenyl Castor Esters. Such waxes are notably marketed under the names PHYTOWAX® Olive 12 L44, PHYTOWAX® Olive 14 L 48, PHYTOWAX® Olive 16 L 55, PHYTOWAX® Olive 18 L 57, PHYTOWAX® Ricin 16 L 64, PHYTOWAX® Ricin 18 L 69 and PHYTOWAX® Ricin 22 L 73 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR2792190.

[0053] Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the additional polar hydrocarbon wax(es) are chosen from waxes of animal or vegetable origin, other than sunflower wax; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and oil vegetable, as well as their mixtures.

[0054] More particularly, the additional hydrocarbon polar wax(es) are chosen from beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, Laurel wax; from hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated copra oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil or olive oil, as well as mixtures thereof.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition comprises it, the additional wax(es) are chosen from among candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, and mixtures thereof. Additional apolar waxes

[0055] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise apolar hydrocarbon wax (in other words consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms), resulting from the transformation of petroleum, such as for example polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes (Synthetic Wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes), alone or in mixtures.

[0056] If, however, the composition included them, their content would not exceed 5% by weight, preferably would not exceed 3% by weight, advantageously would not exceed 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of them. PASTY HYDROCARBON COMPOUND

[0057] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound.

[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, and comprising at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have an initial melting temperature of less than 20°C.

[0059] The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes. In the case of pasty compounds, however, the measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fat is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fat is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the quantity of energy required to pass the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is equal to the value under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0060] Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are chosen from:

[0061] - vegetable butters, such as for example mango butter, such as that com marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,

[0062] - totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL), partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance;

[0063] - esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular isostearic acid such as SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL;

[0064] - esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid, preferably saturated, C6-Ci0 and ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, C6-C2o, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C2o fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular marketed under the reference SOFTISAN® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo. (INCI name: BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2);

[0065] - triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, even actually mono- or poly-hydroxylated, preferably Ci2-Ci8, optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as for example the glycerides of saturated fatty acids C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES);

[0066] - esters of dimer diol, or polyol, and dimer diacid such as example :

[0067] * the esters of dimer of dilinoleic alcohol and dilinoleic acid whose groups hydroxylated are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE);

[0068] * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, iso alcohol tertiaryl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: PHYTOSTERYL / ISOSTEARYL / CETYL / STEARYL / BEHENYL DIMER DILINOLEATE);

[0069] * esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid dimer, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE).

[0070] Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the pasty compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-Ci0 dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, C6-C20, triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-Ci8 as well as their mixtures.

[0071] Even more preferably, if the composition comprises them, the pasty compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds with the INCI name BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 and HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES, BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE, PHYTOSTERYL / ISOSTEARYL / CETYL / STEARYL / BEHENYL DIMER DILINOLEATE, HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE, as well as mixtures thereof

[0072] If the composition comprises them, preferably their content varies from 5 to 35% by weight, preferably from 7 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OILS

[0073] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar or apolar.

[0074] By "non-volatile oil" is meant fatty compounds, insoluble in water, liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa), whose vapor pressure at 20°C is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0075] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one oxygen atom, possibly nitrogen. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. POLAR HYDROCARBON OILS

[0076] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0077] A polar oil within the meaning of the invention comprises, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, and preferably at least one oxygen atom.

[0078] Among the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of oils more particularly chosen from: - C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monohydroxylated; - ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C3-Ci6; - non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12; - their mixtures. Alcohols C10-C26

[0079] The alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols. They comprise a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxylated.

[0080] Preferably, said alcohol(s) are chosen from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and preferably octyldodecanol. Non-volatile ether or carbonate oils

[0081] Among the suitable non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C3-Ci6.

[0082] Preferably, the oil(s) may be chosen from: - dicaprylyl ether, - dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, Cl4-15 dialkyl carbonate,

[0083] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils with ester function(s)

[0084] The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may also comprise at least one oil chosen more particularly from hydrocarbon compounds comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12. In addition, the ester oil may optionally comprise one or more ether or hydroxyl functions.

[0085] Among the suitable ester oils, mention may be made of mono and diesters optionally comprising one or two ether groups; triesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally comprising one to three ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol; esters and polyesters of mono- or dicarboxylic acid and dimer diol or monoalcohols; vegetable oils, as well as their mixtures.

[0086] * Mono- or di-esters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, more particularly comprising from 12 to 80 carbon atoms, and optionally one or two ether groups. Among the compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoesters or diesters obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28, preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from monoalcohol or polyol, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12, preferably at least 16. In addition, the ester may optionally comprise one or two ether groups and optionally one or two hydroxyl groups. Examples include octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, myristate 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, glycerin stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixed esters of capric acid, caprylic acid and coconut alcohol (C12-C18 alcohols), 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate,isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxy stearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of esters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol. In particular, suitable for implementing the invention are monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; and diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate. Mention may also be made of esters of monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and of diols, in particular glycols, in particular C2-C5, of glycerol or polyglycerol. Mention may also be made, for example, of propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, dii- diethylene glycol sononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and mixtures thereof.

[0087] *Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups. Suitable for the invention are esters obtained from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, mono- or polycarboxylic acids, in C2-C40, preferably in C4-C40, and from polyols or monoalcohols in C2-C40, preferably in C3-C40; said polyesters optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl. For example, triacetin may be used, as well as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, C4-C36, more particularly C8-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as, for example, triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids. In particular, saturated triglycerides such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride may be mentioned, for example, such as the products marketed under the DUB MCT range by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, triglycerides of C18-C36 acid such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), glyceryl triisostearate. We can also cite triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol and monocarboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate. For example, mention may also be made of oils comprising three ester functions, optionally hydroxylated or acetylated, of acid comprising three carboxylic functions, C2-C9, optionally hydroxylated, and of C2-C20 monoalcohol. Mention may be made of citric acid esters such as, for example, triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, as well as tridecyl trimellitate, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0088] * Tetraesters comprising in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, comprising optionally one to three ether groups, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate.

[0089] * Polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and / or trimer unsaturated and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may in particular be made in this respect the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA, with the INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer.

[0090] * Esters of dimer diol or polyol and mono- and / or dicarboxylic acid. may cite for example the esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and the esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular which can be obtained from a dimer dicarboxylic acid derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular in C8 to C34, in particular in C12 to C22, in particular in C16 to C20, and more particularly in C[8, such as the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, of INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, for example such as those marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. Also suitable are esters resulting from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in patent US7317068. The polyol more particularly comprises 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, preferably pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as preferably stearic, isostearic, caprylic, capric acids, or combinations thereof. As for the dicarboxylic acid, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, it more particularly comprises 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and is preferably adipic acid.Examples include Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate, marketed in particular under the name Crodamol L by the company Croda, Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate marketed under the name Lexfeel 700 EX-LO-MB by the company Inolex.

[0091] * vegetable oils such as castor oil, olive oil, oil Coconut oil, Jojoba oil, Ximenia oil, Pracaxi oil, Coriander seed oil, Macadamia oil, Passionflower oil, Argan oil, Sesame oil, Sunflower oil, Grape seed oil, Avocado oil, Rosa canina oil, Apricot kernel oil, Linseed oil, Sweet almond oil, Cottonseed oil, Soybean oil, Rapeseed oil, Peanut oil, Kaya oil, Marula oil, Camelina oil, Wheat germ oil, Corn oil, Corn germ oil, Rice bran oil, Alfalfa oil, Poppy seed oil, Pumpkin oil, pumpkin, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as their mixtures

[0092] Preferably, a non-hydroxylated vegetable oil is chosen, and even more advantageously chosen from olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0093] Preferably among, the hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from: - vegetable oils, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, preferably non-hydroxylated, in particular those which have just been listed; - ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, preferably 3 or 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms; - their mixtures.

[0094] As particularly advantageous oils, mention may be made of non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, as well as their mixtures.

[0095] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0096] More particularly, the content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, more particularly from 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. NON-VOLATILE NON-POLAR HYDROCARBON OILS

[0097] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “apolar oil” means an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, i.e. from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0098] More particularly, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin such as for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, particularly of plant origin, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane Cl8-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as for example the Gemseal 40 products, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company Nippon Oil & Fat, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range marketed by the company Ineos, Dekanex by the company IMCD, - and their mixtures.

[0099] Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the non-volatile apolar oil is chosen from oils of plant origin.

[0100] If the composition comprises it, the content of non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 0.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition does not comprise any non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s). ADDITIONAL OILS

[0101] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional oil chosen from silicone oils, non-volatile or volatile, or from volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0102] By “volatile oil” is meant an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging to 1300 Pa. SILICONE OILS

[0103] By “silicone oil” is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

[0104] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises limited contents of volatile or non-volatile silicone oils.

[0105] As examples of volatile silicone oils, mention may be made in particular of dimethicone with a viscosity of less than 5cSt (5 x 103 mm2 / s, measured in particular according to the ASTM D-445 standard), octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] With regard to non-volatile silicone oils, the latter may be non-phenylated, or phenylated, whether or not comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

[0107] The term “phenylated” specifies that said oil contains at least one phenyl radical in its structure.

[0108] The term "dimethicone fragment" designates a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom carries two methyl radicals, this group not being found at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0109] Preferably, the silicones do not contain a C 2-C 3 alkylene oxide group, nor a glycerol group.

[0110] Among the non-volatile non-phenylated silicones, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: DIMETHICONE), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one C2-C24 alkyl group, as well as their mixtures.

[0111] Among the non-volatile phenylated silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, the following compounds with INCI names may be mentioned: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and their mixtures.

[0112] As regards non-volatile phenylated silicone oils, free of dhenthicone fragment(s), mention may be made of the compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyl-trimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures.

[0113] More particularly, if the composition comprises it, the content of silicone oil(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition is free of it. VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OILS

[0114] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably apolar, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular: - branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopar, marketed by the company ExxonMobil, - linear alkanes, preferably for example such as the mixture of n-decane (C10) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight silk, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and their mixtures.

[0115] More particularly, if the composition comprises it, the content of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 1 to 25% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 20% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition is free of it. COLOURING MATERIALS

[0116] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one coloring material, synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

[0117] The coloring matter may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof PIGMENTS

[0118] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0119] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0120] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0121] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm. According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm. The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvem, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range which can range from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it allows determining an “effective” particle diameter.This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.

[0122] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particu- mainly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. For example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0123] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres. By "mother-of-pearl" we mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference. The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic colorant, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants. Examples of mother-of-pearl include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride. Mother-of-pearl can more specifically have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0124] Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, “stabilized” means devoid of any effect of color variability with the viewing angle or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from metallic sheen particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0125] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0126] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for a phase oily which can then carry them. The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound. For the purposes of the invention, "coating" a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0127] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used. The surfactant may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. Alternatively, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments. The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment. The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition. Coating can be achieved, for example, by chemically reacting a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creating a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266. Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0128] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of Ullmann's encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0129] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,

[0130] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0131] The pigment can also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. Inorganic substrates on which dyes are adsorbed include, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Organic colorants include cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090). Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1). FAT-SOLUBLE DYES

[0132] By "liposoluble colorant", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring. As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, Sudan brown. As an illustration of natural fat-soluble colorants, we can particularly cite carotenes such as [3-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

[0133] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, and even more particularly from 3 to 15% by weight of coloring matter(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may also be free of coloring matter(s). WATER

[0134] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water. Preferably, the water content does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, the water content, if the composition comprises it, does not exceed 1% by weight, in particular does not exceed 0.5% by weight, and even more particularly does not exceed 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. OPTIONAL ADJUVANTS

[0135] In the context of the present invention, the composition may further contain at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those usually used in the cosmetic field, in particular for makeup and / or skin and lip care compositions.

[0136] Examples include lipophilic thickening agents such as silicas, organic gelling agents (organogelling agents); clays; fillers; preservatives; antioxidants; complexing agents; solvents; active ingredients; perfumes; etc.

[0137] These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property sought for the composition of the invention.

[0138] These optional adjuvants may be present at a content of up to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] The following examples will allow a better understanding of the invention, without however being limiting in nature.

[0140] Raw materials are named by their chemical name or INCI.

[0141] The quantities indicated are in % by weight of raw materials, unless otherwise stated. opposite. EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1

[0142] The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are shown in the table below:

[0143] [Tables 1] Ingredients Composition 1 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (Masester E7000 Medium Chain Triglycerides, marketed by USIM MAS) qsp 100 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV); marketed by Croda) 30 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (Softisan 649, marketed by CREMER OLEO 15 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (Sunflower Wax Double Refined, marketed by Koster Keunen) 5.1 EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX (820 Light Spécial Candelilla Real, marketed by Multiceras) 1.0 HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (marketed by Desert Whale) 3.9 C15-19 ALKANE (Emogreen L15, marketed by SEPPIC) 4.5 RED 6 4.6 RED 7 2.9 IRON OXIDES 1.9 Perfume, antioxidant qs Preparation process:

[0144] 1. Grind the pigments in the portion of oil(s) necessary for good dispersion in the using a three-cylinder mill or ball mill. 2. In a suitable container, heat the waxes, the paste compound and the remaining oils to 98°C to obtain a homogeneous mixture. 3. Add the pigment / oil(s) mixture from the first step to the mixture from the previous step, while stirring. 4. Once the mixture is well homogenized, pour the composition into molds preheated to 42°C. 5. Wait for the surface to set and level off and place the molds in the freezer between -25°C and -20°C until the mold rises to a temperature of 4°C. 6. Remove the sticks from the mold. Evaluation of the compositions:

[0145] A stick of homogeneous composition, without defects, is obtained.

[0146] Its hardness, measured according to the protocol detailed in the description, is 1000 m*.

[0147] The composition is easy and pleasant to apply, with good glide. The deposit The result is comfortable and creamy, with good coverage, and provides a satin finish on the lips. The hold and resistance to migration are satisfactory. EXAMPLE 2

[0148] The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are shown in the table below:

[0149] [Tables2] Ingredients Composition 2 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (Masester E7000 Medium Chain Triglycerides, marketed by USIM MAS) 24.3 PRUNUS ARMENIACA (APRICOT) KERNEL OIL (Apricot kernel Oil; marketed by Henry Lamotte Oils) 10 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV); marketed by Croda) 30 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (Softisan 649, marketed by Cremer Oleo) 15 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (Sunflower Wax Double Refined, marketed by Koster Keunen) 7.1 EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX (820 Light Spécial Candelilla Real, marketed by Multiceras) 1,8 HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (marketed by Desert Whale) 1,8 RED 7 3,7 RED 28 LAKE 3,4 IRON OXIDES 2,5 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0,4 Preparation process:

[0150] 1. Grind the pigments in the portion of oil(s) necessary for good dispersion in the using a three-cylinder mill or ball mill. 2. In a suitable container, heat the waxes, the paste compound and the remaining oils to 98°C to obtain a homogeneous mixture. 3. Add the pigments to the mixture from the previous step, while stirring. 4. Once the mixture is well homogenized, pour the composition into molds preheated to 42°C. 6. Wait for the surface to set and level off and place the molds in the freezer. between -25°C and -20°C until the mold rises to a temperature of 4°C. 7. Remove the sticks from the mold. Evaluation of the compositions:

[0151] A stick of homogeneous composition, without defects, is obtained.

[0152] Its hardness, measured according to the protocol detailed in the description, is 110.3 Nm1.

[0153] The composition is easy and pleasant to apply, with good glide. The deposit The result is comfortable and creamy, with good coverage, and provides a satin finish on the lips. The hold and resistance to migration are satisfactory.

Claims

Claims

1. Solid cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one waxy system comprising at least sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil: - the sunflower wax content representing 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - the hydrogenated jojoba oil content representing 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - the sunflower wax and the hydrogenated jojoba oil representing more than 80% by weight of the waxy system, - the total wax content being between 7 and 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the sunflower wax content varies from 1.5 to 8% by weight, preferably between 2 and 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of hydrogenated jojoba oil varies from 2 to 12% by weight, preferably between 3 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the jojoba oil / sunflower wax weight ratio varies from 0.15 to 7.5, preferably from 0.15 to 5.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sunflower wax represents between 20 and 95% by weight of the waxy system and the hydrogenated jojoba oil represents between 5 and 80% by weight of the waxy system.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional polar hydrocarbon wax, different from hydrogenated jojoba oil and sunflower wax, more particularly chosen from hydrocarbon waxes comprising at least one ester function, and in particular from, alone or in mixtures: i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which RI and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting point temperature varies from 40 at 120°C, ii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, iii) partial or total, preferably total, esters of a saturated C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol, iv) waxes of animal or vegetable origin, v) waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils.

7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional wax is chosen from waxes of animal or vegetable origin, other than sunflower wax; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils other than hydrogenated jojoba oil; and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, Laurel wax; from hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated copra oil, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it may optionally comprise at least one apolar hydrocarbon wax derived from the transformation of petroleum, at a content not exceeding 2% by weight, preferably not exceeding 1% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is polar, more particularly chosen from: - C10-C26 alcohols; - ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C3-C16; - non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hy- carbon, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12 - their mixtures; and preferably among: - vegetable oils, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, preferably non-hydroxylated; - ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms; - their mixtures.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is apolar, more particularly chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin such as for example: - paraffin oil, - vegetable squalane, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not - and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s), if the composition comprises them, is from 0.5 to 8% by weight, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, at a content less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition is free of it.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil, at a content varying from 1 to 25% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition is free of it.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound, chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of di-glycerol and of monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, C6-C20, triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, C12-C18, esters of dimer diol or polyol and dimer diacid, as well as mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of pasty compound, if the composition comprises it, varies from 5 to 35% by weight, preferably from 7 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic pigment is chosen from pigments, lakes, nacres, composite pigments, as well as their mixtures.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one coloring material, more particularly chosen from pigments, the content of organic pigment(s) representing from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises water at a content not exceeding 2% by weight, preferably not exceeding 1% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick, in particular having a hardness of between 90 and 220 Nm, preferably between 90 and 160 Nm-1

21. Method for making up / and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, consisting of applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.