COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS

Abstract

COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS The disclosure relates to methods for treating curly hair subjected to bleaching to improve or restore hair integrity, curl definitions and / or durability; prevent or reduce curl elongation; improve frizz and / or volume control and / or prevent or reduce hair damage. The methods comprise applying a composition to the hair before or after applying to the hair a bleaching composition, the composition comprising (a) at least one carboxylic acid or its salt; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or its derivative; (c) at least one polysaccharide; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water. The pH of the composition is less than 7.The present disclosure further relates to routines or processes for bleaching hair, including applying a treatment composition disclosed herein to the hair and applying a bleaching composition to the hair, wherein the treatment composition is applied to the hair before or after applying the bleaching composition. Figure for abstract: none.

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS Technical field

[0001] The present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating curly or wavy hair in a bleaching routine to maintain and / or prevent curl elongation, maintain and / or enhance curl definition, and maintain and / or restore hair integrity, as well as to provide additional general sensory benefits such as frizz and / or volume control. CONTEXT

[0002] Consumers with curly hair may wish to maintain curls, also achieve better curl definition and / or consistency, and improve curl retention. However, conventional coloring / bleaching process or routines often result in loosening and / or shrinkage of curls and result in unwanted hair elongation, as well as distortion of curl shape. In addition, a conventional coloring / bleaching process may increase hair frizz and porosity, cause damage to extremely fragile fibers, and result in poor hair fixation and reflection. Thus, consumers with curly hair often consider coloring / bleaching hair as an enemy of curls.

[0003] Although some products are designed to reduce frizz and / or improve curl definition, they have disadvantages such as adding a greasy and / or crunchy feel to the hair, weighing the hair down, or being ineffective, especially in humid climates. In addition, the main bleaching products currently available do not have a solution to address both the loosening / shrinking and curl damage issues.

[0004] More and more consumers are also looking for hair products that offer a natural look and feel, a feeling of lightness, while giving the hair longer-lasting styling or shaping benefits. In addition, consumers are looking for products that offer multiple benefits, for example, combining frizz reduction and style hold with softness, maintaining or preventing curl lengthening or elongation while providing good curl definition to the hair during bleaching routines. In addition, consumers are looking for hair products that can protect hair from external factors such as high humidity which causes hair to become very frizzy, unmanageable and lose its shape and style, or factors such as mechanical or physical stress or other external stresses on the hair, for example, external stresses on the hair during the hair bleaching process.

[0005] As such, there is a need for new and improved products and methods that can improve curl definition, maintain or prevent curl elongation, and / or control frizz and / or hair volume, as well as improve the overall integrity and visual appearance of curly hair subjected to bleaching.

[0006] The present disclosure addresses this need and aims to develop novel compositions and methods using the disclosed compositions that can provide one or more of the above-described long-lasting care and styling / shaping benefits to hair undergoing bleaching. The present disclosure further aims to develop novel bleaching routines that can prevent curl elongation, maintain and / or improve hair integrity, and reduce hair damage. SUMMARY

[0007] The present disclosure relates to methods of using compositions according to the present disclosure for treating keratin fibers, such as curly or wavy hair, subjected to bleaching to prevent or reduce curl elongation, improve fiber integrity, curl definition and durability, provide frizz control and / or volume, provide softness, as well as prevent or reduce hair damage. The present disclosure also relates to processes or routines for bleaching curly hair while preventing or restoring hair integrity, preventing curl elongation and / or maintaining or improving curl definition and hair shape.

[0008] It has been surprisingly found that a combination of components according to the present disclosure, particularly when applied to curly hair before or after treatment of the hair with a hair bleaching composition, can maintain or improve fiber integrity, prevent or maintain curl elongation and curl loss due to the bleaching process and, at the same time, provide additional sensory benefits such as frizz and / or volume control, softness, a natural moisturizing feel and the hair's light feel. These benefits have been shown to persist, even in high humidity conditions, and last even after washing the treated hair with or without shampoo.

[0009] In various embodiments, methods of treating curly hair according to the present disclosure comprise applying to the curly hair a hair treatment composition and, optionally, rinsing the composition, the treatment composition being applied to the hair before, during or after application to the hair of a bleaching composition. The hair treatment composition comprises (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide; (d) at least one polyol and (e) water; the pH of the hair treatment composition being less than 7. The method is generally used to maintain or improve curl definitions and / or durability, maintain or prevent curl elongation, improve and / or restore hair integrity and / or provide frizz control and / or volume to the hair.

[0010] The present disclosure further relates to methods of bleaching hair or a process of treating and bleaching hair, particularly curly hair.

[0011] In various embodiments, the method disclosed herein is a pre-treatment-bleaching routine or method comprising (1) applying a treatment composition to the hair and maintaining the treatment composition on the hair for a desired period of time from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, preferably from about 3 minutes to about 10 minutes or about 5 minutes; the treatment composition comprising: (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide; (d) at least one polyol and (e) water; the pH of the composition being less than 7; (2) maintaining the treatment composition on the hair for the desired period, applying a bleaching composition to the hair while the composition is on the hair;(3) thereafter, rinsing the treatment composition and the bleaching composition from the hair after leaving the bleaching composition on the hair for a desired period of time ranging from about 20 minutes to about 1 hour; (4) shampooing the hair one or more times after rinsing the treatment composition and the bleaching composition; (5) thereafter, air drying the hair or drying with a hair dryer and (6) optionally, repeating steps (1) through (5). ;

[0012] In various embodiments, the method disclosed herein is a post-treatment bleaching routine or method comprising (1) applying a bleaching composition to the hair; (2) subsequently rinsing the bleaching composition from the hair after leaving the bleaching composition on the hair for a desired period of time ranging from about 20 minutes to about 1 hour; (3) optionally, shampooing the hair after rinsing the bleaching composition; (4) after rinsing the bleaching composition, or after shampooing the hair if shampoo is present, applying to the hair of a treatment composition comprising: (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol and (e) water; the pH of the treatment composition being less than 7; (5) optionally rinsing the treatment composition from the hair; (6) then allowing the hair to air dry or dry with a hair dryer and (7) optionally, repeating steps (1) to (6).

[0013] In various embodiments, the method disclosed herein is a mixed bleaching and treatment routine or method comprising applying to the hair a mixture of a treatment composition and a bleaching composition; rinsing the mixture from the hair after leaving the mixture on the hair for about 20 minutes to about 1 hour; washing the hair with shampoo one or more times after rinsing; and air drying the hair or drying the hair with a hair dryer; the treatment composition comprising (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water; the pH of the composition being less than 7. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0014] The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated herein and form a part of this specification, illustrate exemplary embodiments of the disclosure and, together with the general description given above and the description provided herein, serve to explain the features of the disclosure.

[0015] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] presents a set of schematic diagrams illustrating a pre-treatment-bleaching routine (pre-trt), a mixed bleaching-treatment routine (mix-trt) and a post-treatment bleaching routine (post-trt) according to the present disclosure.

[0016] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] presents a set of photographs showing strands of Caucasian curly hair treated with the composition according to the invention IA and the comparative compositions C1 and C2 in the pretreatment-bleaching routine (pre-trt), the mixed bleaching-treatment routine (mix-trt), and the post-treatment bleaching routine (post-trt) according to the present disclosure, compared to untreated hair and to hair treated with a bleaching composition alone.

[0017] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] illustrates the breaking stress of the strands of Caucasian curly hair respectively treated with compositions IA, Cl and C2 in the pretreatment-bleaching routine, compared to the untreated strand of hair and to the hair treated with the bleaching composition alone.

[0018] [Fig.4] [Fig.4] illustrates the cycles to breakage (CTB) of hair strands respectively treated with compositions IA, Cl and C2 via the pre-treatment routine bleaching treatment according to the present disclosure compared to hair treated with the bleaching composition alone.

[0019] [Fig.5] [Fig.5] illustrates the breaking stress (wet MTT) of Caucasian curly hair strands treated with composition IA respectively via the pretreatment-bleaching routine, the mixed bleaching-treatment routine and the post-treatment bleaching routine, compared to untreated and twice-bleached hair strands alone (2X-bleached).

[0020] [Fig.6] [Fig.6] illustrates the fiber durability (cycles to breakage (CTB)) of Caucasian curly hair strands treated with composition IA respectively in the different bleaching routine, compared to 2X bleached hair alone.

[0021] [Fig.7] [Fig.7] illustrates the denaturation temperature of the Caucasian curly hair strands treated with composition IA respectively in the pre-treatment-bleaching routine, the mixed bleaching-treatment routine and the post-treatment bleaching routine, compared to the untreated hair strand and the hair treated with the bleaching composition alone.

[0022] [Fig.8] [Fig.8] illustrates the 2D RUMBA images of the curly Caucasian hair strands treated and bleached via the pre-treatment-bleach routine, the mixed bleach-treatment routine and the post-treatment bleach routine according to the present disclosure compared to the untreated hair strand and the hair strand treated with the bleaching composition alone (2X bleaching)

[0023] [Fig.9] [Fig.9] illustrates strands of African American (AA) hair having tight curls treated with the bleaching composition alone once (bleach IX) and twice (bleach 2X), and the strands of hair treated with the composition IA and the bleaching composition according to the bleaching pretreatment routine once (lA(pre)+bleach IX) and twice (lA(pre)+bleach 2X), the hair having been pretreated with the composition IA before application of the bleaching composition, compared to a strand of untreated hair.

[0024] [Fig. 10] [Fig. 10] illustrates the fiber durability (cycles to breakage (CTB)) of Caucasian curly hair strands and African American (AA) hair strands having tight curls treated with Composition IA in the pretreatment-bleach routine disclosed herein, compared to the cycles to breakage of untreated and once-bleached Caucasian and African American hair strands.

[0025] It is to be understood that the foregoing and following descriptions are given by way of example and explanation only, and are not intended to be restrictive as to any claimed subject matter. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0026] The disclosure relates to compositions and methods of using the compositions for treating keratin fibers, such as curly or wavy hair, in bleaching routines to improve or restore hair integrity, curl definitions and / or durability; prevent or reduce curl elongation; improve frizz and / or volume control; provide shape control and / or discipline and / or prevent or reduce damage to bleached hair. The methods comprise applying a treatment composition according to the present disclosure to the hair (in particular) before or after bleaching the hair. The treatment composition comprises (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide; (d) at least one polyol and (e) water. The pH of the treatment composition is less than 7.

[0027] The present disclosure further relates to routines or processes for treating and bleaching hair, particularly curly hair. The bleaching routines or processes include applying a treatment composition disclosed herein to the hair, and applying a bleaching composition to the hair, the treatment composition being applied to the hair before or after applying the bleaching composition to the hair. I. COMPOSITIONS

[0028] In various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol; and (c) water. The pH of the composition is less than 7. When used in a bleaching routine for curly hair, the compositions can prevent or reduce curl elongation, prevent or restore hair integrity and provide long-lasting curl definition, frizz control and / or volume and provide overall sensory properties to the hair. Carboxylic acids or their salts

[0029] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof. As used herein, the term "carboxylic acid" includes carboxylic acid salts, whether or not expressly indicated. Carboxylic acids that may be used include, in various embodiments, mono-carboxylic acids (one carboxylic group) or poly-carboxylic acids (two or more carboxylic groups). Preferably, the carboxylic acids are non-polymeric carboxylic acids. The carboxylic acids may be selected, in some embodiments, from those having a molecular weight less than about 900 g / mol, such as less than about 700 g / mol, less than about 500 g / mol, less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol.

[0030] In some embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid may be selected from mono-carboxylic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, en-tanthic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, un-decylic acid, lauric acid, tridecylic acid, lauric acid, tridecylic acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachidic acid, lactic acid, or a salt thereof.

[0031] In additional embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid may be selected from dicarboxylic acids such as oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid or salts thereof.

[0032] In still other embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid may be selected from tricarboxylic acids such as citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitric acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxylic acid, or their salts.

[0033] In still other embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid may be selected from polycarboxylic acids that have more than three carboxylic groups, such as phytic acid.

[0034] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of two or more carboxylic acids or salts thereof. For example, the compositions may comprise a mixture of two or more mono-carboxylic acids or salts thereof, or may comprise a mixture or two or more poly-carboxylic acids or salts thereof, such as two or more di-carboxylic acids, two or more tri-carboxylic acids, or a mixture of one or more di-carboxylic acids and one or more tri-carboxylic acids. Mixtures of one or more mono-carboxylic acids or salts thereof with one or more poly-carboxylic acids or salts thereof are also contemplated. In other embodiments, the composition comprises a single carboxylic acid or salt thereof.

[0035] In some embodiments, the at least one carboxylic acid is selected from citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid, their salts, or a mixture of two or more of these elements.

[0036] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of carboxylic acids and / or salt thereof ranging from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, such as about 0.1% to about 18%, about 0.5% to about 15%, or about 1% to about 13% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. By way of non-limiting example, the compositions may comprise a total amount of carboxylic acids and / or their salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 15%, by weight, for example, from about 0.5% to about 12%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%,from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 12%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, or from about 2% to about 5%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges thereof. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of carboxylic acids and / or salt thereof ranging from about 0.5% to about 13%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, and more preferably from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0037] In one embodiment, the at least one carboxylic acid comprises or consists of citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glycolic acid, phytic acid, salts thereof, or a mixture thereof, and is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, such as 0.3% to about 9%, or from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges thereof.

[0038] In one embodiment, the composition comprises citric acid in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 5%, especially from about 1% to about 4%, or about 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3% or 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cyclodextrins or their derivatives

[0039] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof. As used herein, the term "cyclodextrins" includes carboxylic acid salts, whether or not expressly indicated. Cyclodextrins are a family of cyclic oligosaccharides consisting of a macrocyclic core of glucose subunits joined by α-1,4 glycosidic linkages.

[0040] Cyclodextrins that can be used include those of the formula:

[0041] in which:

[0042] R is selected from H, CH3 or a hydroxypropyl group, and

[0043] n goes from 6 to 8.

[0044] For example, in embodiments where R = H, the cyclodextrin may be α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, α-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W6 PHARMA, β-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W7 PHARMA, or γ-cyclodextrin sold by WACKER under the name CAVAMAX W8 PHARMA may be used.

[0045] In other embodiments where R = CH3, the cyclodextrin may be a methyl-cyclodextrin, such as methyl-α-cyclodextrin (n = 6), methyl-β-cyclodextrin (n = 7), or methyl-γ-cyclodextrin (n = 8). For example, methyl-β-cyclodextrin sold by the company WACKER under the name CAVASOL W7 may be chosen.

[0046] In various embodiments, the at least one cyclodextrin may comprise a mixture of cyclodextrins and / or derivatives thereof. For example, the at least one cyclodextrin may be a mixture of α-cyclodextrin, β-cyclodextrin and / or γ-cyclodextrin. In another embodiment, the at least one cyclodextrin includes β-cyclodextrin. In yet another embodiment, the cyclodextrin is only β-cyclodextrin, and no other cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is present in the composition.

[0047] In various embodiments, the total amount of cyclodextrins and / or their derivatives in a composition according to the present disclosure ranges from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, including all ranges and subranges thereof, such as about 0.1% to about 18%, about 0.5% to about 18%, about 0.5% to about 15%, about 0.5% to about 12%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 0.5% to about 9%, about 0.5% to about 8%, about 0.5% to about 7%, about 0.5% to about 6%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 18%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of cyclodextrins ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 18%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 13%, from about 1% to about 7%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0048] In one embodiment, the compositions according to the present disclosure comprise B-cyclodextrin in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, such as from 0.2% to about 8%, from about 0.3% to about 7%, from about 0.4% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges thereof.

[0049] In various embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) and cyclodextrin(s) present in the compositions according to the present disclosure may have a molar ratio of carboxylic acid(s):cyclodextrin(s) ranging from about 0.5:1 to about 25:3, for example, about 4:1 to about 15:1, about 5:1 to about 12:1, or about 6:1 to about 10:1, such as, for example, about 1:1, about 2:1, about 3:1, about 4:1, about 5:1, about 6:1, about 7:1, about 8:1, about 9:1, about 10:1, about 11:1, about 12:1, about 13:1, about 14:1, about 15:1, about 16:1, about 17:1, about 18:1, about ln9:l, about 20:1, about 3:2, about 5:2, about 7:2, about 9:2, about 11:2, about 13:2, about 15:2, about 17:2, about 19:2, about 1:3, about 2:3, about 4:3, about 5:1, about 7:3, about 8:3, about 10:3, about 11:3, about 13:3, about 14:3, about 16:3, about 17:3, about 19:3 or about 20:3,including all ranges and sub-ranges thereof. ,

[0050] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may have a weight ratio of (a) the at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof to (b) the at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof of about 1:3 to about 6:1, preferably about 1:3, about 1:2.5, about 1:2, about 1:1.5, about 1:1, about 1.5:1, about 2:1, about 2.5:1, about 3:1, about 3.5:1, about 4:1, about 4.5:1, about 5:1, about 5.5:1, or about 6:1. Polysaccharide thickening agents

[0051] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one polysaccharide as a thickening agent. The term "thickening agent(s)" as used herein refers to "thickener(s)" or "viscosity modifying agent(s)". The at least one polysaccharide agent may be selected from poly anionic saccharide, non-ionic polysaccharide thickening agents or mixtures thereof. Polysaccharide thickening agents that may be used include, by way of example only, inulins, celluloses, starches, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, alginate gums, agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, arabic gums, xyloses, tragacanth gums or derivatives of the foregoing. In other embodiments, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin or heparin. In some embodiments, mixtures of two or more of these may also be selected.

[0052] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gums include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxyanthan gum, and biosaccharide gum. Modified gums or gum derivatives may also be used, such as, for example, deacylated gellan gum, welan gum or hydroxypropyl guar gum, such as Jaguar HP 105 sold by Rhodia.

[0053] In some embodiments, suitable polysaccharide thickening agents that may be used are selected from gums, such as gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum karaya, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, Seneca gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum, etc.

[0054] Non-limiting examples of celluloses include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methylhydroxyethylcellulose) or hydropropylcelluloses, which may or may not contain a fatty chain. A particularly suitable hydroxypropylmethylcellulose is Methocel F4M sold by Dow Chemicals (INCI name: hydroxypropylmethylcellulose). Celluloses modified with groups comprising one or more non-ionic fatty chains that may be used include hydroxyethylcelluloses, preferably non-ionic hydroxyethylcelluloses, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or their mixtures, and wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22 alkyl groups, such as NATROSOL™ Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls), sold by Aqualon, corresponding to the INCI name cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, or BERMOCOLL® EHM 100, sold by Berol Nobel, and those modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as AMERCELL POLYMER® HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by Amerchol, which corresponds to the INCI name nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulose. Hydroxypropyl guar gums are other thickening agents particularly suitable for use in the compositions described herein.

[0055] Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, modified potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride, starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, achroo-dextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch.

[0056] In some embodiments, the polysaccharide thickening agents are selected from carrageenan, xanthan gum, cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, starch, starch acetate, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, guar gum, carboxymethyl guar gum, carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar gum, hydroxyethyl guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, xylose gum, cellobiose, dextrin, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin, inulin, levan or mixtures thereof. In other embodiments, the polysaccharide thickening agents are selected from sclerotium gum, carrageenan, xanthan gum, cellulose gum, cyclodextrin or mixtures thereof.

[0057] In various exemplary embodiments, the total amount of polysaccharide thickening agents may vary, or combinations thereof, typically ranging from about 0.05% to about 5%, including all intermediate sub-ranges, such as about 0.1% to about 5%, about 0.1% to about 4%, about 0.1% to about 3%, about 0.1% to about 2%, about 0.1% to about 1%, about 0.5% to about 5%, about 0.5% to about 4%, about 0.5% to about 3%, about 0.5% to about 2%, about 0.5% to about 1%, about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 4%, about 1% to about 3%, or about 1% to about 2%. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0058] For example, the compositions may, in embodiments given as for example, comprising a total amount of polysaccharide thickening agents ranging from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, or from about 0.75% to about 3%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, wherein the polysaccharide thickening agent comprises at least one polysaccharide thickening agent may be selected from gum arabic, gum tragacanth, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, Seneca gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum, etc. In one embodiment, the composition disclosed herein comprises xanthan gum in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 5%, such as about 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Polyols

[0059] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one polyol. By way of example only, the at least one polyol may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12 or C2-C8 polyols. The at least one polyol may optionally be selected from diols and triols. The at least one polyol may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Any stereoisomer of the polyols may also be used. The polyol(s) in the combination disclosed herein may act as conditioning or smoothing agents and improve the overall sensory properties of the hair and enhance curl definition.

[0060] In various exemplary embodiments, the polyols may be selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, or mixtures thereof.

[0061] In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from, for example, propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 4-methylmethyl-1,2-pentanediol.

[0062] In certain embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least two polyols, for example at least two polyols selected from diols and triols. By way of non-limiting example, a composition according to the disclosure may comprise a combination of at least one glycerin compound and at least one additional glycol compound.

[0063] In various embodiments, the total amount of the at least one polyol may be about 1% or more, about 2% or more, about 3% or more, about 4% or more, about 5% or more, about 6% or more, or about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the polyol is present in the composition in a total amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, including all intermediate ranges, such as from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, or from about 0.5% to about 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0064] In an exemplary and non-limiting embodiment, the at least one polyol is selected from diols and triols, and is present in an amount of about 1%, about 1.5%, about 2%, about 3%, about 4% or about 5% or more by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and comprises glycerin. Water

[0065] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise water. In various embodiments, the amount of water in a composition disclosed herein may range from about 70% to about 98%, including all intermediate sub-ranges, such as about 75% to about 98%, about 80% to 98%, about 85% to 98%, about 90% to about 98%, about 95% to about 98%, about 70% to about 95%, about 75% to about 95%, about 80% to 95%, or about 85% to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Additional components

[0066] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise one or more additional components suitable for use in such compositions. Non-limiting examples of such additional components are provided below. pH correctors

[0067] The compositions disclosed herein may include one or more pH adjusters. to increase or decrease the overall pH of the composition. For example, one or more acids may be included to decrease the pH of the cosmetic composition. Examples of acids suitable for decreasing the pH of the compositions may include one or more acids. The cosmetic composition may include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and the like, to increase the pH of the cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids or bases that are suitable for adjusting the pH of the compositions are readily known to those skilled in the art. For example, in one embodiment, the pH adjuster is a sodium hydroxide solution such as 0.1 M NaOH.

[0068] The amount of the pH adjuster in the compositions may be based on the desired pH of the final composition and / or product to improve curl definition, curl regularity and / or maintain curl elongation. For example, the total amount of the pH adjuster may range from about 0.0001% to about 10% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Conservatives

[0069] One or more preservatives may be included in the compositions described herein for treating hair. Suitable preservatives include, but are not limited to, compounds containing glycerin (e.g., glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, chlorhexidine digluconate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and / or grapefruit seed extract, or a mixture thereof.Other preservatives are known in the cosmetic industry and include salicylic acid, DMDM ​​hydantoin, formaldehyde, chlorophenisin, triclosan, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sorbic acid, methyl isothiazolinone, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid, quatemium-15, stearalkonium chloride, zinc pyrithione, sodium metabisulfite, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane, chlorhexidine digluconate, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzalkonium chloride, sodium sulfite, sodium salicylate, citric acid, neem oil, essential oils (various), lactic acid, vitamin E (tocopherol) or mixtures thereof.In some instances, the hair treatment compositions may include one or more preservatives selected from the group consisting of sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, or mixtures thereof.

[0070] The total amount of the one or more preservatives, when present, may vary. In some cases, the total amount of the one or more preservatives may range from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components

[0071] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise any auxiliary components suitable for use in such compositions. Such components may include, but are not limited to, dyes / pigments for adding color to the composition, humectants, fatty substances, thickeners other than those described above, fillers, structuring agents, glossing agents, antioxidants or penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, buffers, dispersants, plant extracts, such as apricot seed powder, opacifiers, sunscreen agents, vitamins and antistatic agents.

[0072] Optional auxiliary components may be present in an amount of up to about 15%, for example from about 0.001% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0073] In various embodiments, the compositions are acidic and may have a pH of less than 7. For example, the pH of the composition may range from about 1.5 to about 6.8, from about 2 to about 6.5, from about 2.5 to about 6, from about 3 to about 6.5, from about 3 to about 6, from about 3 to about 5.5, from about 3 to about 5, from about 3 to about 4, from about 3.5 to about 6.5, from about 3.5 to about 6, from about 3.5 to about 5.5, from about 3.5 to about 5, from about 3.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3.5 to about 4, including all ranges and subranges therein. In one embodiment, the pH of the composition ranges from about 3 to about 6.5. In one embodiment, the pH of the composition ranges from about 3 to about 4.

[0074] The compositions of the disclosure may be rinse-off compositions or leave-on compositions, and are typically in the form of, but not limited to, a gel, cream, liquid, or lotion. In some embodiments, the compositions are a non-aerosol type product, which may be dispensed from a bottle, tube, or spray bottle.

[0075] In some embodiments, the compositions may be a hair treatment product, a hair styling product, or a styling and management product that may be used to style hair while providing treatment and / or conditioning, as well as manageability benefits to the hair. II. Procedures Methods for preparing the compositions

[0076] The disclosure also relates to methods of preparing the compositions described herein. In certain embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to select specific molar or weight ratios of carboxylic acid(s) and / or salt(s), cyclodextrin(s) and / or derivative(s) thereof, and / or solvent(s) (e.g., deionized (DI) water). For example, by selecting specific molar or weight ratios of these components, it is possible to customize the compositions so that greater or lesser degrees of curl definition and / or frizz control can be achieved.

[0077] Therefore, it may be useful to prepare a premix, or base mixtures, of concentrated combinations of carboxylic acid(s) and / or salt(s) thereof, cyclodextrin(s) and / or derivative(s) thereof, and solvent(s) with particular molar ratios or weight ratios. In one embodiment, the premix comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, at least one cyclodextrin selected from β-cyclodextrin.

[0078] In various embodiments, in the premix, the molar ratio of carboxylic acid(s):cyclodextrin(s) may vary from about 0.5:1 to about 25:3, preferably from about 4:1 to about 15:1, from about 5:1 to about 12:1, or from about 6:1 to about 10:1, preferably about 1:1, about 2:1, about 3:1, about 4:1, about 5:1, about 6:1, about 7:1, about 8:1, about 9:1, about 10:1, about 10:1, about 12:1, about 13:1, about 14:1, about 15:1, about 16:1, about 17:1, about 18:1, about 19:1, about 20:1, about 3:2, about 5:2, about 7:2, about 9:2, about 11:2, about 13:2, about 15:2, about 17:2, about 19:2, about 1:3, about 2:3, about 4:3, about 5:1, about 7:3, about 8:3, about 10:3, about 11:3, about 13:3, about 14:3, about 16:3, about 17:3, about 19:3 or about 20:3.Accordingly, the weight ratios of carboxylic acid(s):cyclodextrin(s) in the compositions disclosed herein may range from about 1:3 to about 6:1, for example, about 1:3, about 1:2.5, about 1:2, about 1:1.5, about 1:1, about 1.5:1, about 2:1, about 2.5:1, about 3:1, about 3.5:1, about 4:1, about 4.5:1, about 5:1, about 5.5:1, or about 6:1, including all ranges and subranges.

[0079] Once the particular carboxylic acid(s), cyclodextrin(s) and solvent(s), and the desired ratio thereof, are selected, the premix may be prepared by any conventional method. By way of illustrative example only, the premix may be prepared by simply mixing the components at the selected ratio, preferably with heating. For example, the mixture may be mixed at a temperature of between about 40°C and 100°C, for example between about 50°C and 95°C. By way of example, the premix may be prepared pre firstly by adding a carboxylic acid and / or a salt thereof and cyclodextrin and / or a salt thereof into DI water; secondly by heating the mixture in a water bath at about 80 until the contents and mixture dissolve into a viscous liquid; thirdly, leaving the mixture at 80 for about 2 hours to allow the ingredients to complete the reaction; finally, cooling the mixture to room temperature.

[0080] Once the premix is ​​prepared, it may then be diluted with an additional solvent and other additives, including polysaccharide(s) and polyol(s), for example, xanthan gum and glycerin, to the desired concentration of the final composition according to the disclosure. The additional solvent may be the same as the premix solvent, may be different from the premix solvent, or may be a combination of the premix solvent with one or more solvents other than the premix solvent.

[0081] In one embodiment, a composition according to the present disclosure comprising citric acid, beta-cyclodextrin, xanthan gum and glycerin, may be prepared by diluting a premix of citric acid and beta-cyclodextrin to a desired concentration with one or more additional solvents, e.g., DI water, correcting the pH of the dilution with a pH adjuster, e.g., 0.1 M sodium hydroxide solution, subsequently adding the desired amounts of xanthan gum and glycerin to the dilution to obtain a mixture, and further mixing using a blender or vortex mixer (or vortex mixer) to result in the compositions disclosed herein.

[0082] In various embodiments, the compositions of the disclosure may contain a premix:additional components ratio ranging from about 1:99 to about 50:50. For example, the compositions of the disclosure may contain a premix:additional components ratio ranging from about 2:98 to about 40:60, or from about 3:97 to about 35:65, such as about 2.5:97.5, about 5:95, about 7.5:92.5, about 10:90, about 12.5:87.5, about 15:85, about 17.5:81.5, about 20:80, about 25:75, or about 30:70, including all ranges and subranges. In preferred embodiments, the premix:additional components ratio ranges from about 5:95 to about 15:85. Hair treatment processes

[0083] The disclosure also relates to methods of treating curly hair subjected to bleaching to improve or restore hair integrity, curl definition and / or durability; prevent or reduce curl elongation; improve frizz and / or volume control and / or prevent or reduce hair damage, while lightening hair color or lightening hair. As used herein, the term "bleaching routine" refers to a procedure or sequence of actions including the application to the hair of a bleaching composition and, optionally, one or more treatment compositions other than the bleaching composition for removing color from the hair (lightening or lifting the hair).

[0084] In various embodiments, the hair treatment methods according to the present disclosure generally comprise applying any of the compositions disclosed herein to the hair, particularly curly or wavy hair in a bleaching routine. The degree of curly nature and / or curl type of the hair may vary and is not limited. For example, hair curls treated by the compositions disclosed herein may be slightly wavy to tight, and may have different textures and colors. The curls of the hair may be natural or unnatural, for example, through a permanent styling process using chemicals that structurally alter the texture of the hair.It is preferred that the compositions disclosed herein be applied to the hair before or after applying a bleaching composition to the hair, rather than applying the compositions with the bleaching composition, either in a mixture or applied to the hair at the same time.

[0085] In some embodiments, the methods of the disclosure may include applying an effective amount of a composition disclosed herein to hair having curls, the hair being dry, wet, damp, or soaked, before or after treating the hair with a bleaching composition, optionally rinsing with water, and / or shampooing. As used herein, the term "effective amount" refers to an amount sufficient to impart a desired effect to the hair, taking into account the degree of curl, length, volume, and texture of the hair. Generally, about 0.1 g to about 5 g of product is applied per gram of hair, depending on the specific product formula, length, volume, and type of hairstyle.

[0086] The composition may be applied to the hair before or after shampooing and / or conditioning, or after rinsing the hair with water. In some embodiments, the composition may be applied to the hair without shampooing or by conditioning it before or after.

[0087] Once the composition is applied to the hair, the hair may be massaged or combed with the fingers or using a comb or similar tool so that the composition is evenly distributed throughout the hair. In some embodiments, the treatment composition is left on the hair for a desired period of at least 1 minute, such as from about 3 minutes to about 10 minutes, or about 5 minutes.

[0088] In some embodiments, the method is a pre-treatment method, in wherein a treatment composition disclosed herein is applied to the hair and distributed evenly throughout the hair before the bleaching composition is applied to the hair and the hair is bleached. Prior to applying the treatment composition, the hair may be rinsed with water or shampooed. After the treatment composition is left on the hair for a desired period of time as described above, the bleaching composition is then applied to the hair while the treatment composition remains on the hair. In some embodiments, the bleaching composition may be rinsed from the hair after being left on the hair for about 20 minutes to about 1 hour. After rinsing the bleaching composition, the hair may be optionally shampooed, at least once. The hair may then be air-dried or blow-dried.

[0089] In some embodiments, the method is a post-treatment method, where the compositions disclosed herein are applied to the hair after the hair has been treated with a bleaching composition for a desired period of time such as from about 20 minutes to about 1 hour. The composition disclosed herein may be applied to the hair after rinsing the bleaching composition from the hair and optionally then shampooing the hair. The treatment composition may be massaged into or left on the hair for a period of at least 1 minute, such as from about 3 minutes to about 10 minutes, or about 5 minutes. Thereafter, the treatment composition may optionally be rinsed out. In some embodiments, the hair to which the composition disclosed herein has been applied may be scrunched, twisted, or the like, which may help define curls.Then, the hair treated with the composition may be dried in the air or with a hair dryer, for example a drying hood, where the composition applied to the hair may be rinsed off before drying or left on the hair as a leave-in product for the desired duration, for example a few hours, overnight or a few days, or until the next washing or rinsing of the hair. After drying the treated hair, one may run one's fingers through the hair to break the film formed on the hair by the component ingredients. Typically, in a post-treatment routine, when the composition disclosed herein is rinsed off the treated hair, the hair appears less stiff and not crunchy.

[0090] The present disclosure further relates to methods of bleaching hair, or hair routines or processes, or a method for lightening the color of curly hair while providing benefits such as improving or restoring hair integrity, curl definitions and / or durability; preventing or reducing curl elongation; improving frizz and / or volume control and / or preventing or reducing damage to the hair. The bleaching process or routine generally includes applying a treatment composition disclosed herein to the hair and applying a bleaching composition to the hair, wherein the treatment composition may be applied to the hair before or after applying the bleaching composition.

[0091] In some embodiments, the bleaching routine is a pre-treatment-bleaching routine, which comprises 1) applying a treatment composition disclosed herein to the hair and maintaining the treatment composition on the hair for a desired period of at least 1 minute, such as about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, about 3 minutes to about 10 minutes, or about 5 minutes; 2) after leaving the treatment composition on the hair for the desired period of at least 1 minute, applying a bleaching composition to the hair while the treatment composition is left on the hair; 3) subsequently rinsing the treatment composition and the bleaching composition from the hair after leaving the bleaching composition and the treatment composition on the hair for a desired period of about 20 minutes to about 1 hour;4) optionally shampooing the hair once or repeatedly after rinsing out the treatment composition and the bleaching composition; and 5) drying the hair in the open air or using a hair dryer and 6) optionally repeating steps (1) to (5). ;

[0092] In some embodiments, the bleaching routine is a post-treatment routine, which comprises 1) applying a bleaching composition to the hair; 2) subsequently rinsing the bleaching composition from the hair after leaving the bleaching composition on the hair for a desired period of time ranging from about 20 minutes to about 1 hour; 3) optionally, shampooing the hair after rinsing the bleaching composition; 4) rinsing the bleaching composition, or after shampooing the hair if shampoo is present, applying to the hair a treatment composition disclosed herein; 5) optionally, rinsing the treatment composition from the hair; 6) subsequently air drying the hair or drying the hair with a hair dryer and 7) optionally, repeating steps (1) through (6).Before drying the hair in a final step, it can be styled, for example by sculpting it with the hands.

[0093] In some embodiments, the bleaching routine is a mixed treatment routine, which comprises applying to the hair a mixture of a treatment composition according to the present disclosure and a bleaching composition; rinsing the mixture from the hair after leaving the mixture on the hair for about 20 minutes to about 1 hour; washing the hair with shampoo one or more times after rinsing out the mixture; and air drying the hair or drying the hair with a hair dryer.

[0094] In some embodiments, a composition disclosed herein is used alone on the hair, without the use of other hair treatment compositions. In some other embodiments, after treating the curly hair according to a pre-treatment-bleaching routine or a post-treatment bleaching routine, another hair treatment or styling composition, such as hair gel, hairspray, etc., may be applied to the hair. As such, a composition disclosed herein may be applied to the hair and layered with another composition that is also applied to the hair.

[0095] In various embodiments, methods of treating hair with the compositions of the disclosure provide various benefits described above to the hair, without a greasy feel or flaking, compared to hair that has not been treated with a composition of the disclosure. The term "long-lasting," as used herein, means that the curl definition, elongation prevention, volume control, frizz control, effects on hair integrity, and other benefits provided to the hair may last for a desired time, such as at least one or a few hours, a few days, even after rinsing or washing the hair. III. Necessary

[0096] The disclosure also relates to kits comprising a first container containing a composition according to the present disclosure and / or a concentrated premix as disclosed herein, and one or more additional containers containing one or more hair care / treatment compositions other than the compositions disclosed herein, such as, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair composition, an oxidizing composition, a hair mask or a styling composition.

[0097] The premix, or base mix, is a concentrated combination of (a) at least one carboxylic acid or its salt; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or its derivative; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; and (d) at least one polyol. The premix may be diluted to result in a composition according to the present disclosure at or near the time of use. The kit may optionally include instructions informing the user of appropriate mixing steps, ratios, timing, etc., when a premix is ​​included, or instructions for use of the compositions, including various processing routines disclosed herein. The kits in various embodiments may include at least one container suitable for holding and / or dispensing the compositions. positions described herein for application to hair. In certain other embodiments, a kit may comprise a first container containing a composition according to the disclosure, and at least one additional container comprising a composition according to the disclosure or a composition not according to the disclosure, such as, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair mask or a styling composition.

[0098] Having described in detail the numerous embodiments of the present invention, it will be apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be noted that all examples of the present disclosure, while illustrating numerous embodiments of the disclosure, are provided by way of non-limiting examples and therefore should not be construed as limiting the various aspects thus illustrated. It is understood that all definitions herein are provided solely for the purposes of this disclosure.

[0099] As used herein, the terms "comprising," "having," and "including" (or "comprise," "have," and "include") are used in their open, non-limiting sense. The phrase "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to the materials or steps specified and to those that do not materially affect the basic and novel features of the compositions.

[0100] In the present application, the use of the singular includes the plural, unless specifically indicated otherwise. The singular forms "a", "an", "the", "the" and "at least one" are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations. Similarly, the expression "a salt thereof" also refers to "salts thereof".Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, or mixtures thereof," it indicates that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.

[0101] As used herein, the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” and “or a combination thereof,” are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof,” means that the component(s) may be selected among A, B, C, D, among A + B, among A + B + C, among A + D, among A + C + D, etc., without limitation on variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.

[0102] For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that, to provide a more concise description, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified by the term "about." It is understood that, whether the term "about" is used explicitly or not, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to the actual value given, and it is also intended to refer to the approximation to that given value that would be reasonably inferred based on ordinary skill in the art, including approximations due to experimental and / or measurement conditions for that given value. All ranges and quantities given herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a bound. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, such as 2% to 8%, such as 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%," "1% to 5%," "2% to 10%," and so on. All numbers, quantities, ranges, etc.are intended to be modified by the term "about," whether or not expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "about 1% to 10%" is intended to have both its 1% and 10% bounds modified by the term "about." The term "about" is used herein to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%. Similarly, all bounds of the ranges are intended to be individually disclosed, such that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of 1:2 and 2:1.

[0103] "Active ingredient," as used herein with respect to the percentage of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% of the activity of the ingredient or raw material.

[0104] All amounts stated herein are relative to the amount of active material unless otherwise stated.

[0105] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0106] As used herein, the terms "applying a composition to keratin materials" and "applying a composition to hair" and variations of these expressions are intended to refer to bringing keratin materials, including hair and skin, into contact with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner. It may also be bringing into contact with the keratin materials in an effective amount.

[0107] Unless otherwise indicated, all percentages herein are by weight, based on the weight of the total composition.

[0108] As used herein, the term "curly hair" refers to any hair having a curl. The curl may be natural or unnatural, i.e., formed by chemical or physical treatment of the hair. The degree of curl of the hair may vary and is not limited.

[0109] As used herein, hair with improved or enhanced curl definition may have curls having a clean ring shape rather than frizz, curls that appear more individualized, curls that have a more closed appearance, and / or curls that have an enhanced visual appearance of hair color and / or highlights.

[0110] A "leave-in" composition or product refers to a hair treatment composition that is not rinsed and / or removed with water or an acceptable solvent after the composition is applied to the keratin fiber, such as hair; instead, the composition is left on the hair for a desired period of time, such as 1 hour, 2 hours, 3 hours, 4 hours, up to 8 hours, overnight, or as long as necessary, until the next washing or rinsing of the keratin fibers.

[0111] The terms "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein mean that the specific material may be used in a manufacturing process in small amounts that do not significantly affect the fundamental and novel characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure. These terms may also mean that the specific material is not used in a manufacturing process, but may still be present in a starting material included in the composition.

[0112] As used herein, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting.

[0113] It is to be understood that, with respect to the carboxylic acid salts described herein, it is intended to encompass the use of a salt of a carboxylic acid as an ingredient added to a composition according to the disclosure, or to the salt of the carboxylic acid that forms when the carboxylic acid is used as an ingredient in a composition according to the disclosure.

[0114] As used herein, the terms "substantially free" or "essentially free" mean that the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the basic and novel features of the compositions according to the disclosure. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the basic and novel features of the compositions according to the disclosure. Similarly, compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05% or less than 0.01%, or none of the specified materials. Any components positively presented in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, e.g., a claimed composition may be “free,” “essentially free” (or “substantially free”) of one or more components that are positively presented in this disclosure. The term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition, but may still be present in a starting material included in the composition.

[0115] As used herein, the term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure to the surface of keratinous materials, such as hair.

[0116] Unless otherwise expressly stated, it is not intended that any method disclosed herein be construed as requiring that its steps be performed in any specific order. Accordingly, where a method claim does not expressly recited an order to be followed by its steps or it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps are to be limited to a specific order, it is not intended that any particular order be inferred therefrom. Examples

[0117] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active ingredients, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Compositions Treatment compositions

[0118] Exemplary comparative compositions C1 and C2 and a composition according to the invention IA were prepared according to the formulations presented in Table 1.

[0119] [Tables 1] INCI US Inv. Ex. Ex. IA Cl C2 XANTHAN GUM 1 1 GLYCERIN 1 1 CITRIC ACID 2.5 2.5 CYCLODEXTRIN 1.5 1.5 WATER QS QS QS

[0120] Composition C1 was prepared by mixing xanthan gum and glycerin in water and correcting the pH of the mixture to about 3.5-4 at 25°C using 0.1 M sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solution. Composition C2 was prepared by diluting a premix of citric acid and cyclodextrin in deionized water and correcting the pH of the dilution to about 3.5-4 at 25°C using 0.1 M NaOH solution.The premixture of citric acid (CA) and cyclodextrin (CD) was prepared by mixing citric acid, cyclodextrin, and deionized (DI) water in a molar ratio of CD:CA:DI at 1:10:50, corresponding to a weight ratio of CD:CA:DI at 29:48:23, and heating the mixture in a water bath at about 80 °C until the CA and CD were dissolved in the DI water and the mixture formed a viscous liquid, leaving the mixture in the water bath for about 2 hours, and then cooling the mixture to room temperature (RT).Composition IA was prepared by diluting the premix of citric acid and cyclodextrin described above in demineralized water, then correcting the pH of the dilution to about 3.5-4 using 0.1 M sodium hydroxide solution; then adding xanthan gum and glycerin to the solution and mixing the whole using a vortex mixer (IKA® EUROSTAR Power Control from IKA Werke) for about one hour to ensure a homogeneous gel was obtained. Example of bleaching composition

[0121] An example of bleaching composition D was prepared according to the formulation indicated in Table 2.

[0122] [Tables2] INCI US Bleaching Powder, Lightening CYAMOPSIS TETRA-GONOLOBA (GUAR) GUM / CYAMOPSIS TETRAGONOLOBA GUM 2.08 MAGNESIUM CARBONATE HYDROXIDE 7.44 DISODIUM EDTA 0.99 SODIUM SILICATE 17.36 POTASSIUM PERSULFATE 49.61 SODIUM METASILICATE 2.48 MAGNESIUM CARBONATE HYDROXIDE 1.98 SODIUM STEARATE 9.92 AMMONIUM PERSULFATE 4.96 PANTHENOL 0.11 LAPIS LAZULI 0.08 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 0.99 MINERAL OIL / PARAFFIN OIL 1.98

[0123] Exemplary developer 30 Vol

[0124] An example of a 30V Developer D composition shown in Table 3 was prepared. Developer D has a pH at 25 ❖C of about 2.2+ / - 0.2.

[0125] [Tables3] INCI Name Developer Composition 30 VD TRIDECETH-2 CARBOXAMIDE MEA 0.85 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.2 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 GLYCERIN 0.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARETH-25 2.85 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 18 TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 WATER QS Example 2 - Assessment Methods

[0126] The hair properties in the following experiments were evaluated visually and / or with one or more instrument assessments according to the following process or protocols. Fiber Integrity Assessment

[0127] The evaluation of fiber integrity was carried out using a miniature tensile tester (MTT 688 from Dia-Stron Ltd) and a Fiber Dimensional Analysis System (FDAS) 770. 50 fibers per hair sample, e.g., hair strands treated in the examples, were tested under wet or dry conditions.

[0128] Each fiber cross-section of the tested hair strand was measured using the FDAS 770 using a double-ended method. After the fiber cross-sectional area was measured, the tensile strength and elastic modulus of the fibers were measured using the MTT in both dry and wet states. For the dry measurement, the hair strand samples were allowed to equilibrate at 45% relative humidity (45% RH) at room temperature for approximately 24 hours and then subjected to a tensile test using the MTT with 2 gm of force at a tensile rate of approximately 40 mm / min. For the measurement in the wet MTT, each hair strand sample was soaked in deionized (DI) water for approximately two (2) hours and then subjected to a tensile test using the MTT. The tensile measurement is performed after the hair fibers have been wetted, with 2 gm of force at a tensile rate of approximately 40 mm / min.The measured results of hair breaking stress and elastic modulus were analyzed statistically. tically using UVWin vision 4.2.5.0 software, with a statistical significance level set to p < 0.05.

[0129] The elastic modulus represents a measure of the spring-like structure (elasticity) of the hair. The elastic modulus provides information about the deformation of the fibers, and therefore, fibers with a higher elastic modulus are more resistant to deformation. The breaking stress represents the force / area required to break the hair fiber. A higher breaking stress represents a stronger hair fiber. Overall, the higher the breaking stress and / or elastic modulus, the better the integrity of the fiber.

[0130] C. Measurement by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC)

[0131] Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) measures the temperatures and heat flow associated with thermal transition in a material. It is useful for studying the structural characteristics of hair fibers. Keratin undergoes detectable transformations at different temperatures. Changes in these transformation temperatures can be used to estimate the impact that a particular hair treatment may have on the hair fibers. In this case, DSC was used to measure the denaturation temperature (Td). The denaturation temperature (Td) was used as a representation of the thermal stability of hair fibers, which is influenced, at least in part, by the crosslink density of the matrix (intermediate filament-associated proteins, IF APs).Thermal stability (Td) and its relationship in determining the thermal stability of hair fibers is established in the literature. Generally, the denaturation temperature of hair is higher if the strength / integrity of hair is high and vice versa.

[0132] The denaturation temperatures of the hair strands in the following examples were measured using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) (TA Instruments Discovery DSC 2500 series). To prepare hair samples for DSC measurement, 7-8 grams of each tested hair strand prepared above were chopped into fine particles (<0.5 mm). The hair particles from each bleached and treated strand were placed in a large volume DSC chamber. Approximately 50 µl of deionized water (DI water) was added to the trough and the hair particles were soaked in the water. The trough chamber was then sealed using a crimping die. For each treated hair strand sample, four troughs were prepared (i.e., n=4). The DSC troughs were allowed to equilibrate to room temperature overnight.The next day, approximately 24 hours after hair treatment, the hair samples were run on the DSC equipment starting at 40°C and ramping at 10°C / min up to 180°C.

[0133] The Td value was measured in degrees Celsius, which represents the crosslink density of the hair matrix. Trios software was used to statistically analyze the denaturation temperature values ​​measured by the DSC equipment. An increase in Td indicates an interaction between active and matrix hair proteins.

[0134] D. Fiber Durability Testing (Cyclic Fatigue Tensile Testing, CFTT)

[0135] Cyclic fatigue testing is typically used to simulate the repeated tensile stress that occurs during combing and brushing. Cyclic fatigue data and survival probability exhibit both internal fiber defects and external cuticular layer failure. Cyclic fatigue testing provides a unique instrumental tool to demonstrate progressive levels of damaged hair fibers. Fibers with relatively large defects are likely to fail at a lower number of cycles of applied stress than fibers with minor defects.

[0136] In the following examples, fiber durability tests (cycles to failure (CJR)) were conducted using a Dia-Stron Ltd. 801 Cyclic Fatigue Tensile Tester (METFC). The hair sample size for each hair strand was approximately 50 fibers per sample. The fibers were 28 mm long. The experiment was conducted at approximately 23 °C, 45% relative humidity, and using a constant stress over a specified area. Evaluation of the definition of the loops

[0137] RUMBA is a polarization imaging system that takes successive images of a hair sample illuminated by an infrared LED and under several polarization states, using a rotating polarizer. The images give a modulated intensity on each pixel. The modulation is caused by the birefringence of the hair fiber and contains the angular signature that can be extracted with the system software to construct an orientation image of the sample. The orientation data can be mapped onto a 2D image to visualize the entire sample. From this orientation data, a coefficient that relates to the hair stiffness can be defined - the stiffer the hair fibers in the strand, the closer the orientation distribution will be to a single angle value. The standard deviation of such a distribution is therefore inversely proportional to the perception of stiffness.The same process is performed for alignment, where the alignment of a hair strand is defined as the hair fibers being "locally stiff". Thus, a stiffness coefficient is defined on a small scale of the 2D mapping of the orientation, resulting in a stiffness coefficient on each pixel of the image.

[0138] In the following examples, the definition of the curls of the hair strands was analyzed using RUMBA (orientation measurement for linearity and alignment of hair fiber) from Bossa Nova Technologies, LLC and / or with photographic images. RUMBA analysis was performed by placing an individual hair strand under test into the RUMBA system and acquiring RUMBA images for the hair strand. In some situations, hair strands may be exposed to a condition of approximately 80% RH at 27 for approximately 24 hours before being placed into the RUMBA system. Example 3 - Hair Treatment Methods

[0139] The hair in the Examples was treated according to a general bleaching process (or general bleaching routine) and three bleaching processes were tested (or tested bleaching routines). The three bleaching routines are: the pretreatment-bleach routine (RI, or pre-trt), the mixed treatment-bleach routine (R2, or mixed-trt), and the post-treatment bleaching routine (R3, or post-trt). The three tested bleaching routines are illustrated in more detail in the diagrams in [Fig. 1].

[0140] As can be seen in [Fig.l], in the pretreatment-bleaching routine t), the hair is pretreated with a treatment composition according to the present disclosure or a comparative composition, such as composition IA, Cl or C2, before applying to the hair a bleaching composition. In the mixed-treatment routine, the hair has been treated with a mixture of a bleaching composition and a treatment composition according to the present disclosure or a comparative composition. In the post-treatment bleaching routine, the hair is post-treated with a treatment composition according to the present disclosure or a comparative composition after treating the hair with a bleaching composition.

[0141] The processes or protocols of these three bleaching routines tested in the following examples are detailed below. Commercially available DOP shampoo, Redken Flash Lift bleaching powder, and Redken Pro-Oxyde Developer 30 Vol cream were used as examples and are not limiting. Each strand of hair used in the examples was approximately 2 gm.

[0142] 1. Protocol of the general bleaching process (routine)

[0143] Mix Redken Flash Lift bleaching powder and Redken Pro-Oxyde 30 Vol Developer cream in a ratio of 1:2 (bleach powder to developer) to prepare a bleaching composition (or bleaching mixture).

[0144] Pre-wash a strand of hair to be tested using a DOP shampoo at a ratio of approximately 0.4 grams of shampoo per gram of hair.

[0145] After washing the hair strand, remove excess water from the hair using a towel and allow the hair to air dry.

[0146] Apply approximately 20 g of the bleaching composition prepared in step 1) to the strand of pre-washed, air-dried hair at a ratio of approximately 10 grams of bleaching composition per gram of hair, and distribute the bleaching composition evenly through the hair by combing with an applicator brush for approximately 1 minute per side and a total of approximately 2 minutes.

[0147] Suspend the strand of hair treated with the bleaching composition in a climate chamber having 45% relative humidity (45% RH) at 30 for approximately 50 minutes.

[0148] After exposure to 45% RH for approximately 50 minutes, rinse the hair strand with water for approximately 2 minutes, then wash the strand twice with DOP shampoo.

[0149] After washing the hair strand, allow it to air dry overnight.

[0150] Optionally, after allowing the strand to air dry overnight, repeat steps 4 to 7 one or more times, each time beginning with air drying overnight. For example, when the hair strands are bleached twice, steps 4 to 7 are repeated twice.

[0151] In a modified general bleaching routine, step 4) and step 5) are modified as follows: after applying the bleaching composition to the pre-washed hair strand in step 4) above, the hair is wrapped in aluminum foil and then the bleaching composition is spread evenly on the hair by combing the hair with an application brush for about 1 minute on each side and a total of about 2 minutes. Then, in step 5), the hair strand is placed in a climate chamber at 60% relative humidity at 30 for about 50 minutes.

[0152] 2. Protocol of the bleaching process before treatment (routine)

[0153] Mix Redken Flash Lift bleaching powder and Redken Pro-Oxyde 30 Vol Developer cream in a ratio of 1:2 (bleach powder developer) to prepare a bleaching composition (or bleaching mixture).

[0154] Pre-wash a strand of hair to be tested using a DOP shampoo at a ratio of approximately 0.4 grams of shampoo per gram of hair.

[0155] After washing the hair strand, remove excess water from the hair using a towel and allow the hair to air dry.

[0156] Apply 0.4 g of a test treatment composition, for example, composition IA according to the present disclosure, or comparative composition C1 or C2, to the strand of pre-washed and air-dried hair.

[0157] Massage each strand of hair to which the test treatment composition has been applied for approximately 1 minute to evenly distribute the test treatment composition throughout the hair, and leave the treatment composition on the hair for approximately 4 minutes, for a total of approximately 5 minutes of processing time.

[0158] Apply approximately 20 g of the bleaching composition prepared in step 1) to the strand of hair while the test treatment composition is left on the hair (10 g of the bleaching mixture per gram of hair), and distribute the bleaching composition evenly on the hair by combing the hair using an applicator brush for approximately 1 minute per side and a total of 2 minutes.

[0159] Suspend the strand of hair treated with the bleaching composition in a climate chamber having 45% relative humidity (45% RH) at 30 for approximately 50 minutes.

[0160] After exposure to 45% RH for approximately 50 minutes, rinse the hair strand with water for approximately 2 minutes, then wash the strand twice with DOP shampoo.

[0161] After washing the hair strand, remove excess water from the hair and allow the hair to air dry overnight.

[0162] Optionally, after allowing the strand to air dry overnight, repeat steps 4 through 9 one or more times, each time beginning with air drying overnight. For example, when the hair strands are bleached twice, steps 4 through 9 are repeated twice.

[0163] In a modified bleaching pre-treatment routine, step 6) and step 7) are modified as follows: after applying the bleaching composition to the hair strand in step 6) above, the hair is wrapped in aluminum foil and then the bleaching composition is spread evenly on the hair by combing the hair using an application brush for about 1 minute on each side and a total of about 2 minutes. Then, in step 7), the hair strand is placed in a climate chamber at 60% relative humidity at 30 ❖C for about 50 minutes.

[0164] 3.3 Mixed Process Protocol - Bleaching Treatment (Routine)

[0165] Pre-wash a lock of hair (20 g) subjected to testing using a DOP shampoo at a ratio of approximately 0.4 grams of shampoo per gram of hair.

[0166] After washing the hair strand, remove excess water from the hair using a towel and allow the hair to air dry.

[0167] Mix Redken Flash Lift bleaching powder and Redken Pro-Oxyde 30 Vol Developer cream in a ratio of 1:2 (bleach powder developer) to prepare a bleaching composition (or bleaching mixture).

[0168] Separately add 0.4 g of test treatment compositions IA, Cl and C2 into 20 g of bleaching composition obtained in step 3), then mix the mixture, then adjust the pH of the mixture to 9.5-10 using monoethanolamine to obtain a treatment and bleaching mixture.

[0169] Apply the homogenized treatment and bleaching mixture to the pre-washed hair strand and distribute the treatment and bleaching mixture evenly through the hair by combing with an applicator brush for approximately 1 minute on each side and a total of 2 minutes.

[0170] Place the strand of hair treated with the treatment and bleaching mixture in a climatic chamber having 45% relative humidity (45% RH) at 30 for approximately 50 minutes.

[0171] After exposure to 45% RH for approximately 50 minutes, rinse the hair strand with water for approximately 2 minutes, then wash the strand twice with DOP shampoo.

[0172] After washing the hair strand, remove excess water from the hair, then optionally scrunch the hair five times (5x) to help sculpt the curls and add style. Then, let the hair strand air dry overnight.

[0173] Optionally, after air drying the hair strand overnight, repeat steps 4-10 one or more times as needed, each time starting with air drying overnight. For example, when the hair strands are treated and bleached twice, steps 5)-11) are repeated twice.

[0174] 3.4 Post-treatment bleaching process protocol (routine)

[0175] Mix Redken Flash Lift bleaching powder and Redken Pro-Oxyde 30 Vol Developer cream in a ratio of 1:2 (bleach powder:developer) to prepare a bleaching composition (or bleaching mixture).

[0176] Pre-wash a strand of hair (2g) under test using a DOP shampoo at a ratio of approximately 0.4 grams of shampoo per gram of hair.

[0177] After washing the hair strand, remove excess water from the hair using a towel and allow it to air dry.

[0178] Apply about 20 g of the bleaching composition prepared in step 1) to the strand of pre-washed and air-dried hair at a ratio of about 10 g of the bleaching composition per gram of hair, and distribute the bleaching composition evenly through the hair by combing with an applicator brush for about 1 minute per side and a total of 2 minutes.

[0179] Place the strand of hair treated with the bleaching composition in a climatic chamber having 45% relative humidity (45% RH) at 30 for approximately 50 minutes.

[0180] After exposure to 45% RH for approximately 50 minutes, rinse the hair strand with water for approximately 2 minutes, then wash the strand twice with DOP shampoo.

[0181] After washing the hair strands twice using DOP shampoo, applying 0.4 g of a treatment composition, for example, composition IA according to the present disclosure or comparative composition C1 or C2, to the hair strand, and massaging the hair strand to which the treatment composition has been applied for approximately 1 minute, then rubbing the hair (5x) to help sculpt the curls and add style. Then, allowing the hair strand to air dry overnight.

[0182] You can also repeat steps 4) to 7) as desired, starting each time with hair that has been air-dried overnight. For example, when the hair strands are bleached twice, steps 4 to 7 are repeated twice.

[0183] Example 4 - Performance evaluation in the pre-treatment routine - bleaching

[0184] The performance of composition IA was evaluated on strands of Caucasian curly hair subjected to bleaching compared to the performance of comparative compositions C1 and C2. The hair samples were respectively treated with compositions A1, C1 and C2 and bleached twice according to the routine pretreatment-bleaching, mixed treatment-bleaching and post-treatment bleaching protocols. The untreated hair strands and the hair strands that were treated twice with the bleaching composition alone according to the general bleaching routine protocol were used as controls. Each hair strand weighed approximately 2.0 g.

[0185] After treating the hair strands according to different routines described above, the properties of the treated hair strands were evaluated visually and / or using instruments according to the evaluation methods described above. The evaluations and results are detailed below.

[0186] 4.1 Visual appearance of hair strands treated via different decoration routines loration

[0187] Photographs of the untreated hair strand, a hair strand that was treated with the bleaching composition twice (2x) alone, and the hair strands respectively treated twice after the pre-treatment bleaching routine, the mixed treatment-bleaching routine and the post-treatment bleaching routine, where the hair strands were respectively treated with compositions IA, C1 and C2 before, during or after the treatment of the hair with the bleaching composition, were taken at the end of the entire process and are shown in [Fig.2],

[0188] As can be seen in [Fig.2], hair bleached twice using the bleaching composition alone had noticeably less defined curls than untreated hair. In contrast, strands of hair that were treated via the Pre-treatment and post-treatment routines, where hair was treated with the IA composition before or after treating hair strands with the bleaching composition, had significantly better curls, less frizz, and better manageability, compared to hair bleached alone and hair treated with a mixed treatment-bleach routine, where the IA composition and the bleaching composition were applied together to the hair in a mixture.

[0189] As can be seen in [Fig.2], the hair strands respectively treated with comparative compositions C1 and C2 via pre-treatment, mixed-treatment or post-treatment bleaching routines, where compositions C1 and C2 were applied to the hair before, during or after treatment of the hair with the bleaching composition, had visible curl lengthening with less defined curls and / or the hair had more frizz compared to the hair treated with composition IA before or after bleaching the hair. Furthermore, in all mixed-treatment, pre-treatment and post-treatment routines, the hair strands that were treated with composition IA and C2 showed better color lightening than the hair strands treated with composition C1.

[0190] The results demonstrate that the combination of a carboxylic acid such as citric acid, cyclodextrin, a polysaccharide such as xanthan gum, and a polyol such as glycerin in water, when used to treat hair before or after bleaching, provided synergistic benefits to bleached hair such as maintaining and / or preventing the elongation of curly hair, and / or maintaining and / or improving the definition and hold of curls.

[0191] 4.2 Integrity of hair treated via the pre-treatment-bleaching routine

[0192] The integrity of the fibers of the hair strands treated twice according to the routine of pre-treatment-bleaching, where composition IA and compositions Cl and C2 were respectively applied to a separate strand of hair before application of the bleaching composition, was measured using a miniature tensile tester (MTT 688, from Dia-Stron Ltd) and statistically analyzed according to the procedure described above, in comparison with untreated hair and only bleached hair (bleached 2X).

[0193] The results of the breaking stress of the treated and bleached hair strands are shown in [Fig.3]. As shown in [Fig.3], after bleaching the hair twice alone, the breaking stress of the hair decreased significantly, indicating that the hair was damaged due to the chemical treatment of the bleaching composition. Pretreatment of the hair using composition C2 did not significantly affect the breaking stress of the hair, indicating that composition C2 did not significantly reduce hair damage. In contrast, hair strands that were pretreated with composition IA and composition Cl, respectively, before the application of the bleaching composition showed significantly improved breaking strain, compared to the control hair bleached alone, indicating that the pretreatment using compositions Al and C2, respectively, restored hair integrity and reduced hair damage due to the chemical treatment of the bleaching composition. As can be seen in [Fig.3], bleached hair that was pretreated with composition IA had a higher breaking strain than bleached hair that was pretreated with composition Cl. As such, composition IA performed better than composition Cl.

[0194] The results demonstrate the benefits of restoring or improving fiber integrity and thus reducing hair damage provided by the synergistic combination of the components according to the present disclosure, as included in composition IA.

[0195] 4.3 Durability of hair fibers treated via the pre-treatment routine - discoloration

[0196] The fiber integrity of the hair strands treated twice according to the pretreatment-bleaching routine, where composition IA and compositions C1 and C2 were respectively applied to a separate hair strand before the application of the bleaching composition, was measured using a cyclic fatigue test according to the process described above. The results of the cyclic fatigue test obtained are shown in [Fig.4].

[0197] As shown in [Fig.4], the cycles required to break hair that was pretreated with composition IA before application of the bleaching composition were significantly more numerous than the cycles required to break hair bleached with the bleaching composition alone or hair pretreated with compositions C1 and C2 before application of the bleaching composition. The results demonstrated that the synergistic combination of the components included in composition IA significantly improved the durability of the fibers of the hair subjected to bleaching.

[0198] 4.4 Integrity of hair fibers treated with composition IA via different routines

[0199] The fiber integrity of the hair strands respectively treated twice according to the protocols of the pretreatment-bleaching routine, the mixed treatment-bleaching routine and the post-treatment bleaching routine described above, where the composition IA was applied to a separate hair strand before, during or after the bleaching composition was applied to the strand of hair, was assessed using the Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT 688, from Dia-Stron Ltd) with the hair in a wet state (and statistically according to the process described above, compared to untreated hair and bleached hair only (2X bleached).

[0200] The results of the breaking stress of the hair strands treated with the composition IA in different bleaching routines compared to the untreated and 2X bleached hair strands are illustrated in [Fig.5]. As shown in [Fig.5], after two bleachings of the hair using the bleaching composition alone, the breaking stress of the hair significantly decreased, indicating that the hair was damaged due to the chemical treatment of the bleaching composition. However, when the hair was pretreated with the composition IA before the bleaching composition was applied to the hair, the breaking stress of the hair was significantly improved, compared to the hair bleached alone and to the hair treated with the composition IA during or after applying the bleaching composition to the hair.Hair treated with the IA pre-treatment routine had significantly higher breaking strain than the 2x bleaching, mixed-treatment, and post-treatment routines. The results showed that among the 3 different routines, the pre-treatment provided damage prevention.

[0201] 4.5 Durability of hair fibers treated according to different routines

[0202] The fiber durability (cycles to break (CTB)) of the hair strands respectively treated twice according to the pretreatment-bleaching routine, the mixed treatment-bleaching routine and the post-treatment bleaching routine described above, where the composition IA was applied to a separate hair strand before, during or after applying the bleaching composition to the hair strand, was evaluated by cyclic fatigue testing according to the process described above. The results of the cyclic fatigue test obtained are shown in [Fig.6].

[0203] As shown in [Fig.6], the cycles required to break hair strands treated with composition IA before, during, or after application of the bleaching composition were significantly greater than the cycles required to break hair treated with the bleaching composition alone. As such, treatment using composition IA in all pretreatment, mix-treatment, and post-bleaching routines improved the durability of the bleached hair fibers. The results further show that hair treated via the pretreatment and posttreatment routine had significantly higher breakage cycles than hair treated via the mix-treatment routine.

[0204] 4.6 Denaturation temperature of hair treated via different routines

[0205] The denaturation temperatures of the hair strands treated with the IA composition in different bleaching routines, where the IA composition was applied to the hair before, during or after applying the bleaching composition to the hair, were evaluated using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) according to the process described above, in comparison with the untreated hair strand and the hair strand bleached twice with the bleaching composition alone. The results are illustrated in [Fig.7].

[0206] As shown in [Fig. 7], compared to untreated hair, hair treated with the bleaching composition only twice (2X bleached) had a significantly lower denaturation temperature than untreated hair, indicating that the hair was damaged during treatment with the bleaching composition. However, hair treated via the bleaching pretreatment routine and the post-treatment bleaching routine with composition IA had an increased denaturation temperature compared to the 2X bleached hair, and the increase was significant when the hair had been treated via the post-treatment bleaching routine.

[0207] The results demonstrate that pre-treatment and post-treatment of hair using the IA composition significantly improves the thermal integrity of hair fibers.

[0208] 4.7 Definition of loops processed using different routines

[0209] The curl definition of hair strands treated according to the pre-treatment, mixing-treatment and post-treatment bleaching routines as described above, where the IA composition was used as the treatment composition and applied to the hair before, during or after the application of the bleaching composition was evaluated using a RUMBA system according to the method described above.

[0210] The 2D images obtained with the RUMBA system for the treated hair strands were illustrated in [Fig.8]. As can be seen in [Fig.8], the hair treated with AI in all pre-treatment, mixed-treatment and post-treatment routines had no curl elongation and had less frizz than the hair only bleached. In addition, the hair strands treated and bleached via pre- and post-treatment bleaching routines showed better curl definition, compared to the hair bleached alone (2X bleached) and the hair treated via the mixed-treatment routine. The results demonstrated that the AI ​​composition used in one of the bleaching routines with pre-treatment or with post-treatment disclosed herein prevented curl elongation and provided better curl definition and manageability of the curly hair.

[0211] 4.8 Summary of study results

[0212] The performance of composition IA in the pre-treatment bleaching routine, the mixed-bleach-treatment routine and the post-treatment bleaching routine, compared to comparative compositions C1 and C2, is summarized below in Table 2.

[0213] [Tables2] Bleaching Treatment Wet MTT (Covalent Bonds) Dry MTT (Fiber Quality) CFTT DSC Modulus of Elasticity (ME) Stress at Break (SB) Modulus of Elasticity (ME) Toughness Cycles to Break (CTB) Td Pre-trt-lA VVVVVV Pre-trt-C2 V Pre-trt-Cl VVV Post-trt-lA NA NA VVVV Post-trt-C2 NA NA V Post-trt-Cl NA NA Mix-trt-lA V Mix-trt-C2 Mix-trt-Cl VVV

[0214] In summary, the IA composition, when applied to the hair before or after the application of the bleaching composition to the hair, provided overall improvements in fiber quality, covalent bonds, hair durability, and hair strength, compared to the results with application of the IA composition to the hair in a mixture with the bleaching composition. Furthermore, the results demonstrate that the benefits were achieved by the synergistic combination of components included in the IA composition.

[0215] Example 5 - Performance of AI composition on African American hair before tight curls

[0216] The performance of the IA composition was tested and evaluated on strands of African American hair having tight curls following the pretreatment-bleaching routine described above, compared to an untreated strand and a strand of hair treated with the bleaching composition alone following the modified general bleaching routine protocol described above. The strands of hair have were bleached once and twice respectively. Each strand of hair used in the test weighed approximately 2.0 grams.

[0217] [Fig.9] illustrates the appearance of hair strands treated with the bleaching composition alone once (bleached IX) and twice (bleached 2X), and hair strands treated according to the pretreatment-bleach routine once (1A(pre)+bleached IX) and twice (1A(pre)+bleached 2X), with the hair pretreated with composition IA before application of the bleaching composition, compared to the appearance of an untreated hair strand.

[0218] As can be seen, the hair strands that were bleached twice show better color lightening than the hair strands that were bleached once. However, after the hair strand was treated with the bleaching composition alone twice, the hair strand showed noticeable elongation. In contrast, the hair strand that was treated according to the pretreatment-bleaching routine, where the hair was treated with the IA composition before the bleaching composition was applied, showed significantly reduced elongation with maintained or improved curl definition. The color lightening effect was not affected by the pretreatment with the IA composition.

[0219] Example 6 - Performance of the IA composition on different types of curly hair

[0220] The performance of the IA composition is compared on two different hair strands, the Caucasian curly hair strands having loose curls and the African American hair strands having tight curls. Naturally curly Caucasian hair generally has a lower cycles to breakage value and is less durable than natural African American hair.

[0221] Both types of hair strands were treated twice according to the pre-treatment-bleaching routine described above, with the hair having been treated with the IA composition before the application of the bleaching composition being compared to the hair strands treated with the bleaching composition alone twice according to the general bleaching routine.

[0222] The treated hair strands were evaluated using a fiber durability test according to the evaluation method described above. The results obtained from fatigue cycles (cycles to failure (CTB)) are shown in [Fig. 10].

[0223] As shown in [Fig. 10], after treatment using the bleaching composition alone, the cycles required to break hair strands of both types were significantly reduced, indicating that both types of hair were damaged due to the chemical treatment using the bleaching composition. However, when the hair strands of both types were treated with the com IA position before being treated with the bleaching composition, the cycles required to break the hair significantly improved, indicating that the hair was more durable and less damaged compared to hair that was only bleached.

[0224] The results demonstrate that the IA composition provided benefits in improving hair integrity and reducing hair damage, regardless of the level of hair curl, at least when the IA composition was used in a pre-treatment bleaching routine.

[0225] The above examples demonstrate that the synergistic combination of components according to the disclosure prevented and / or reduced curl elongation and restored and / or improved the integrity of hair subjected to bleaching. The examples further demonstrate that the synergistic combination generally performs better when used to treat hair before or after application to the hair of a bleaching composition.

[0226] It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations may be made to the compositions and methods according to the disclosure without departing from the spirit and scope of the disclosure. It is therefore intended that the disclosure cover such modifications and variations as well as their equivalents.

Claims

Claims

1. A method of treating hair comprising: (i) applying to the hair a hair treatment composition comprising: (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water; wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH less than 7; wherein the carboxylic acid or salt thereof is citric acid, the cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is β-cyclodextrin, the polysaccharide thickening agent is xanthan gum and the polyol is glycerin; And (ii) optionally, leaving the hair treatment composition on the hair for a period of time ranging from about 1 minute to about 30 minutes, preferably from about 3 minutes to about 10 minutes; (iii) applying to the hair a hair bleaching composition and (iv) By rinsing the hair.

2. A method of treating hair comprising: (i) applying to the hair a hair bleaching composition; (ii) rinsing the hair; (iii) applying to the hair a hair treatment composition comprising: (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water; wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH less than 7, in which the carboxylic acid or salt thereof is citric acid, the cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is B-cyclodextrin, the polysaccharide thickening agent is xanthan gum and the polyol is glycerin; and (iv) optionally rinsing the hair.

3. A method of treating hair comprising: (i) applying to the hair a hair bleaching composition and a hair treatment composition, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises: (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water; wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH of less than 7, wherein the carboxylic acid or salt thereof is citric acid, the cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is β-cyclodextrin, the polysaccharide thickening agent is xanthan gum, and the polyol is glycerin; and (ii) rinsing the hair.

4. A method of treating hair comprising: (i) mixing a hair treatment composition with a hair bleaching composition to form a mixture, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises: (a) at least one carboxylic acid or salt thereof; (b) at least one cyclodextrin or derivative thereof; (c) at least one polysaccharide thickening agent; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water; wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH of less than 7; wherein the carboxylic acid or salt thereof is citric acid, the cyclodextrin or derivative thereof is β-cyclodextrin, the polysaccharide thickening agent is xanthan gum, and the polyol is glycerin; and (ii) applying the mixture to the hair and (iii) rinsing the hair.

5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hair treatment composition has a molar ratio of (a) carboxylic acid and its salts to (b) cyclodextrins and their derivatives ranging from about 0.5:1 to about 25:3, preferably from about 4:1 to about 15:1, more preferably from about 5:1 to about 12:1, and most preferably from about 6:1 to about 10:

1.

6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the treatment composition has a lower pH of about 2 to about 6, preferably about 3 to about 5, more preferably about 3 to about 4.5, most preferably about 3 to about 4.

7. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein in the hair treatment composition: (a) the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts is from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 1% to about 5%; (b) the total amount of cyclodextrins and their derivatives is from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 18%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, even more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight; (c) the total amount of polysaccharide thickening agents is from about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% and / or (d) the total amount of polyols is at least 0.5%, preferably from about 1% to about 10%;wherein all amounts are by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment composition.;

8. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the hair treatment composition comprises: (a) from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 5% of carboxylic acids selected from citric acid, its salts or a mixture thereof; (b) from about 0.01% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 18%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, even more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 1% to about 5% of β-cyclodextrin, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof;

9. (c) from about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% of polysaccharide thickening agents; (d) at least about 0.5%, preferably from about 1% to about 10% polyols; and (e) at least about 80% water; wherein the hair treatment composition has a pH ranging from about 3 to about 5; and wherein all amounts are by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment composition. The method of claim 8, wherein the hair treatment composition has a molar ratio of (a) carboxylic acid and its salts to (b) β-cyclodextrin and their derivatives ranging from about 0.5:1 to about 25:3, preferably from about 4:1 to about 15:1, more preferably from about 5:1 to about 12:1 and most preferably from about 6:1 to about 10:1.

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