AEROSOL DEVICE BASED ON ANIONIC FIXING POLYMER, DIRECT DYE, MONOALCOHOL AND DIMETHYLETHER
The aerosol device with anionic fixing polymers, direct dyes, and dimethyl ether propellant effectively neutralizes yellow/orange tones in hair, enhancing softness and suppleness while minimizing residue transfer, addressing the issues of existing treatments.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022013054
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-12-09
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-28
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-12-09
AI Technical Summary
Hair is sensitized or weakened by atmospheric agents and cosmetic treatments, leading to undesirable yellow/orange tones and loss of pigmentation, with existing treatments being inefficient in neutralizing these tones and leaving residues on skin and textiles.
An aerosol device containing anionic fixing polymers, direct dyes, and C2-C4 monoalcohols with dimethyl ether as a propellant, which is applied to keratin fibers to quickly and uniformly neutralize yellow/orange tones, enhance softness and suppleness, and minimize residue transfer.
The device achieves rapid, homogeneous color neutralization, improves hair softness and suppleness, and reduces residue transfer, while maintaining hairstyle hold without requiring water rinsing.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: AEROSOL DEVICE BASED ON ANIONIC FIXING POLYMER, DIRECT DYE, MONO ALCOHOL AND DIMETHYLETHER
[0001] The present invention relates to an aerosol device comprising a keratin fiber treatment composition such as hair comprising at least one anionic fixing polymer, at least one direct dye, at least one monoalcohol and at least one dimethyl ether as well as a treatment process implementing said composition. technical field
[0002] It is well known that hair is sensitized or weakened to varying degrees by the action of atmospheric agents, particularly light, and by the action of certain cosmetic treatments such as shampoos.
[0003] It is also known that light, in particular, tends to damage the natural color of hair as well as the artificial color of dyed or bleached hair. Hair color gradually fades or turns into unattractive or undesirable shades.
[0004] Indeed, bleached hair is often weakened and porous, so that over time it tends to lose its pigmentation and develop unsightly yellow / orange tones. Similarly, light-colored hair, especially white or gray hair, can also develop unsightly yellow / orange tones.
[0005] Thus, the object of the present invention is to develop a device for treating keratin fibers such as hair, allowing for the rapid and homogeneous application of the composition to the keratin fibers, leading to the neutralization of yellow and / or orange tones in the hair throughout the treated strands. This device also provides good cosmetic properties in terms of hair softness and suppleness, as well as good hair-shaping and / or hairstyle-holding properties. Furthermore, the device according to the invention results in a treatment that transfers little or no product onto the skin or textiles once dried. Description of the invention
[0006] This objective is achieved with the present invention, which relates to an aerosol device comprising: - at least one pressurized container comprising: a) at least one composition comprising: i) at least one anionic fixing polymer, ii) at least one direct dye, and iii) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, and, b) at least one propellant selected from dimethyl ether, and, - a means for delivering the composition.
[0007] The invention also relates to a method for neutralizing yellow and / or orange reflections of keratin fibers such as hair, previously bleached and / or natural white, comprising the application to said fibers of a composition delivered from a device as defined above.
[0008] By using the aerosol device according to the invention, uniform and chromatic neutralization of keratin fibers, such as hair, is quickly and easily achieved across the entire strand. Furthermore, the hair is softer to the touch, more supple, and leaves no residue after application. This treatment has the advantage of being leave-in and not requiring water.
[0009] In addition, this composition exhibits good resistance to transfer and deposition on the substrates with which the composition comes into contact, such as skin and / or clothing, is limited.
[0010] The present invention also relates to a method for styling hair and / or maintaining a hairstyle, comprising a step of applying the composition to dry or damp hair, said composition being left unrinsed. Preferably, the composition is applied to keratin fibers such as light-colored (blonde or white) hair, whether natural or bleached.
[0011] It also relates to the use of the composition for styling hair and / or maintaining hairstyles.
[0012] By "neutralizing yellow and / or orange tones," we mean masking unsightly yellow and / or orange tones, that is, modifying the color to make it more natural (close to a natural blonde or white), in particular by varying the values of the parameters a* (red-green axis) and / or b* (yellow-blue axis) of the CIELab colorimetric system
[0013] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the different examples can, in particular, be combined within non-illustrated variants.
[0014] The expression "at least one" means one or more.
[0015] The aerosol device comprises at least one pressurized container including: a) at least one composition comprising: i) at least one anionic fixing polymer, ii) at least one direct dye, and iii) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol
[0016] b) at least one propellant selected from dimethyl ether,
[0017] the composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018] Composition a) according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0019] In what follows, when the propellant(s) are present in composition a), the total weight of the composition corresponds to the total weight of composition a). When the propellant(s) are not present in composition a), the total weight of the composition corresponds to the weight of composition a) + the weight of the propellant(s).
[0020] Anionic fixing polymer:
[0021] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic fixing polymer.
[0022] The term "fixing polymer" means any polymer capable of giving a shape to a hair or to maintain hair in a given shape.
[0023] Examples of anionic fixing polymers include polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a number molecular mass between 500 and 5,000,000.
[0024] The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated monoacid or diacid carboxylic monomers such as those corresponding to formula (I):
[0025] z(A)n—COOH(D C=Q
[0026] in which
[0027] n is an integer from 0 to 10,
[0028] A denotes a methylene group, possibly linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur,
[0029] Ri designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group,
[0030] R2 designates a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or carboxyl,
[0031] R3 designates a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a -CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.
[0032] In the formula (I) above, the alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms may designate in particular the methyl and ethyl groups.
[0033] Preferred anionic fixing polymers with carboxylic or sulfonic groups are:
[0034] A) acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers or their salts, including acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymers and acid copolymers Methacrylic / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate, in particular AMERHOLD DR 25 marketed by AMERCHOL, and sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. Also noteworthy are methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, especially in aqueous dispersion, such as LUVIFLEX SOFT and LUVIMER MAE marketed by BASF.
[0035] B) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, or esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,222,944 and German application no. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type having in their chain an acrylamide motif, optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated, as described in particular in Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371. C1-C4 copolymers of acrylic acid and alkyl methacrylate may also be mentioned.
[0036] As another anionic fixing polymer of this family, we can also mention the branched sequenced anionic polymer butyl acrylate / acrylic acid / methacrylic acid sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by the company LUBRIZOL (INCI name AMP-ACRYLATES / ALLYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER).
[0037] C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those having in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate motifs, and possibly other monomers such as allylic or methallylic ester, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated, linear or branched, long hydrocarbon chain carboxylic acid, such as those having at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers being optionally grafted and crosslinked, or a vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester of an α- or α-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described among others in French patents numbers 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798. Commercial products falling into this class are resins 28, 29, 30, 26, 13, 14 and 28, 13, 10 sold by the company NATIONAL STARCH.
[0038] Crotonic acid derived copolymers can also be cited as terpolymers such as crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate and in particular MEXOMERE PW supplied by CHIMEX.
[0039] D) Polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, and itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters; these polymers may be esterified. Such polymers are described in particular in US patent 2,047 398, 2 723 248, 2 102 113, patent GB 839 805, and in particular those sold under the names GANTREZ® AN or ES by the company ISP.
[0040] Polymers also falling within this class are copolymers of maleic, citraconic, and itaconic anhydrides and an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids, or vinylpyrrolidone group in their chain; the anhydride functions are monoesterified or monoamidified. These polymers are, for example, described in French patents 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the applicant.
[0041] E) Polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.
[0042] F) Polymers comprising sulfonic groups. These polymers may be polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrene-sulfonic, naphthalene-sulfonic, acrylamido-alkylsulfonic, sulfoisophthalate motifs.
[0043] These polymers may be chosen in particular from:
[0044] - salts of polyvinylsulfonic acid having a molecular mass between approximately 1,000 and 100,000 as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids, and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
[0045] - polystyrene-sulfonic acid salts, sodium salts, having a mass molecular of about 500,000 and about 100,000. These compounds are described in patent FR 2198719;
[0046] - polyacrylamide-sulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in the US patent 4,128,631;
[0047] G) grafted anionic silicone polymers;
[0048] The grafted silicone polymers used are preferably chosen from non-siliconized organic skeleton polymers grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polysiloxane skeleton polymers grafted with non-siliconized organic monomers and their mixtures.
[0049] H) Anionic polyurethanes, which may include silicone grafts and hydrocarbon-grafted silicones.
[0050] Examples of polyurethane fixatives include dimethylolpropionic acid / isophorone-diisocyanate / neopentylglycol / polyesterdiols copolymer (also known as polyurethane-1, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® PUR by BASF, and dimethylolpropionic acid / isophorone-diisocyanate / neopentylglycol / polyesterdiols / siliconized diamine copolymer (also known as polyurethane-6, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® Si PUR A by BASF.
[0051] As another anionic polyurethane, AVALURE UR 450 can also be used.
[0052] Polymers with sulfoisophthalate groups, such as the AQ55 and AQ48 polymers marketed by EASTMAN, can also be used.
[0053] According to the invention, the anionic fixing polymers are preferably selected from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG® by BASF, methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, particularly in aqueous dispersion, such as LUVIFLEX SOFT and LUVIMER MAE marketed by BASF, crotonic acid-derived copolymers such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by NATIONAL STARCH, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives,acrylic acid and its esters such as the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the name GANTREZ® ES 425 by ISP, LUVISET SI PUR, MEXOMERE PW, anionic polyurethanes (elastomeric or non-elastomeric), polymers with sulfoisophthalate groups, anionic fixing polymers of family B), and even more particularly, crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by NATIONAL STARCH are preferred.
[0054] The total quantity of fixing polymer(s) may vary from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1.5 to 8% by weight, better from 2 to 7% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Direct dye:
[0055] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one direct colorant. Preferably, the direct colorant(s) according to the invention are chosen from blue, green or violet colorants, and more particularly blue or violet.
[0056] The direct dyes usable according to the invention are preferably anionic or cationic and preferably anionic.
[0057] The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkali substances. Anionic direct dyes are understood to mean any direct dye having in its structure at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent, where R designates a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion. Anionic dyes can be selected from azo direct dyes. acids, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, xanthenic dyes, indigoids and acidic natural dyes.
[0058] Examples of anionic azo dyes include Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117.
[0059] Examples of anthraquinone acid dyes include Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43 (also called EXT violet No. 2).
[0060] Examples of triarylmethane dyes include Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49.
[0061] As an example of xanthenic dyes, one can cite: Acid Violet 9
[0062] As an example of indole dyes, one can cite: Acid Blue 74 As direct cationic dyes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the dyes Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14, and Basic Yellow 87.
[0064] The preferred direct dyes are EXT. VIOLET 2, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 9 and Basic Violet 2, more preferably EXT. VIOLET 2, Acid Blue 62 and Acid Blue 9.
[0065] The direct colorant(s) is / are present in a total quantity that may vary from 0.001% to 3%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, better from 0.0075% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0066] Preferably, the anionic direct colorant(s) is / are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.001% to 3%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, and more preferably from 0.0075% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. C2-C4 monoalcohols
[0067] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more C2-C4 monoalcohols.
[0068] The C2-C4 monoalcohols are in particular selected from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol. Preferably, the monoalcohol used is ethanol.
[0069] C2-C4 monoalcohols are generally present in a total quantity ranging from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably ranging from 20 to 70% by weight and even more particularly ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] Additives:
[0071] The compositions may also contain at least one agent commonly used in cosmetics, chosen, for example, from reducing agents, organic solvents other than C2-C4 monoalcohols, softeners, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, solubilizers, perfumes, anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, proteins, vitamins, silicones, mineral oils, vegetable oils, fatty esters, fatty ethers, pH modifying agents and mixtures thereof.
[0072] Organic solvents:
[0073] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents other than C2-C4 monoalcohols.
[0074] Examples of organic solvents include polyols and polyol ethers such as pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0075] When present, the organic solvents are present in a total content preferably between 1 and about 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably between 10 and about 70% by weight and even more particularly between 20% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0076] The composition according to the invention may include water which is present in a content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
[0077] More preferably, the composition does not include any water added during its preparation. Any water present may correspond to residual water from the mixed ingredients.
[0078] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous (0% water).
[0079] Device:
[0080] The aerosol device comprises at least one pressurized container comprising selected from dimethyl ether b).
[0081] The propellant(s) b) may or may not be present in the composition a) as described above.
[0082] The container of the device according to the invention may have rigid walls and directly contain the composition a).
[0083] Alternatively, the container may have rigid walls and contain a flexible-walled pouch which contains composition a).
[0084] According to this configuration, the composition a) in the pouch may not include a propellant b), the latter being located in the volume defined between the rigid walls of the container and the pouch.
[0085] Preferably, the composition a) contained in the pouch also includes at least one propellant b).
[0086] Preferably, the composition a) comprises one or more propellants b), and is directly contained in the container of the device.
[0087] The device includes a means for delivering the compositions, the means comprising at least one dispensing valve which surmounts the container.
[0088] The valve is in selective fluidic communication with the interior of the container via a valve inlet orifice, the communication being established in response to the actuation of an actuation means, such as a push button.
[0089] When the device includes a rigid-walled container that contains a flexible bag, the valve is then provided with two inlet ports, one of the ports being able to communicate with the inside of the bag and the other with the volume defined between the bag and the rigid walls of the container.
[0090] When the container does not contain a bag, it is equipped with a dip tube to convey the composition to the inlet orifice of the dispensing valve.
[0091] When the container contains a bag, the inlet orifice of the valve opens into the bag.
[0092] The device may include at least one diffuser that covers the valve. The push button may be part of the diffuser.
[0093] The diffuser may be equipped with one or more distribution conduit(s) intended to convey the composition(s) to one or more distribution orifices.
[0094] US documents 3 917 121, US 4 720 046, and WO 00 / 76880 disclose examples of devices.
[0095] The diffuser may comprise a single outlet orifice and diffusion branches radiating from said orifice. Alternatively, the diffuser comprises a plurality of outlet orifices. Advantageously, the outlet orifices may be arranged to obtain a diffusion grid.
[0096] Preferably, the pressurized container of the device according to the invention has rigid walls and directly contains the composition a).
[0097] Preferably, the composition a) comprises only dimethyl ether b) as a propellant.
[0098] The dimethyl ether is present in the pressurized container according to the invention preferably in a total content of 25 to 80% by weight, more preferably 30 to 70% by weight, better 35 to 60% by weight, better still 40 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (packaged in the aerosol device). When the propellant(s) are present in composition a), the total weight of the composition corresponds to the total weight of composition a). When the or The propellants are not present in composition a), the total weight of the composition corresponds to the weight of composition a) + the weight of the propellant(s)
[0099] Preferably, the dimethyl ether b) is present in the pressurized container according to the invention in a total quantity ranging from 25 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, better from 35 to 60% by weight, better still from 40 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of composition a).
[0100] When dimethyl ether is present in composition a), the total amount of anionic fixing polymer may vary from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of composition a), preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of composition a), preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, better from 3 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of composition a).
[0101] When dimethyl ether is present in composition a), the total amount of direct dye(s) may vary from 0.001% to 3%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, better from 0.0075% to 0.5% relative to the total weight of composition a).
[0102] The composition may further comprise one or more propellants other than dimethyl ether. The additional propellants may be chosen from liquefied gases and compressed gases.
[0103] Examples of liquefied gases include chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons, such as trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane, chloropentafluoroethane, l-chloro-l,l-difluoroethane, and 1,1-difluoroethane; volatile hydrocarbons, such as C3-C5 alkanes like propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane, pentane, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbons are selected from propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof.
[0104] When the device includes one or more additional propellants of the liquefied gas type, the total propellant content (i.e. the total content of dimethyl ether + other propellant(s)) is preferably from 25 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, better from 35 to 60% by weight, better still from 40 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0105] As examples of compressed gases, nitrogen, air, and CO2 and mixtures thereof may also be listed.
[0106] When the device includes one or more additional compressed gas propellants, the compressed gas content preferably ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and better still from 1.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0107] The propellants are under pressure, more particularly at least partially in the form of liquid.
[0108] Advantageously, the composition which is delivered from the pressurized container is in liquid form.
[0109] Procedure:
[0110] The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying to said fibers a composition delivered from a device as defined above.
[0111] The composition delivered by the aerosol device described above can be applied to dry keratin fibers, preferably light-colored blond and white, natural or bleached. Preferably, the keratin fibers have a tone level greater than or equal to 7, better greater than 8, preferably greater than 9. The "tone" levels are based on the classification of natural shades from 1 to 10, with one tone separating each shade from the one immediately following or preceding it (see "Science des Traitements Capillaires" by C. ZVIAK, Ed. Masson 1988, p. 278).
[0112] Thanks to the device according to the invention, the application is homogeneous over the entire hair.
[0113] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting to the scope of the invention. However, the examples allow for the support of specific features, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention. Example 1
[0114] The compositions according to the invention A to D were prepared
[0115] Composition (g / 100g) Ma: Active ingredient
[0116] [Tables 1] ABCD VA / CROTONATES / VINYL NEODECANOATE COPOLY MER 2.6 2.6 1.3 5.2 AMINOMETHYL PROPAN OL 0.27 0.27 0.13 0.54 ETHANOL Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 EXT. VIOLET 2 / CI 60730 0.01 0.01 ACID BLUE 9 / CI 42090 0.01 ACID BLUE 62 CI 62045 0.01 DIMETHYLETHER 45 45 55 35 FRAGRANCE / PARFUM 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14 The compositions were packaged in a can with the following equipment:
[0117] Valve: PRECISION GI - internal jet - 0.33 / RI - Internal restriction - 0.33 stem 3.3 and an APTAR Microdiffuser with DU3832 nozzle (0.38mm)
[0118] The aerosol device according to the invention is activated and the mixture is delivered in the form of a spray.
[0119] Composition A was sprayed for 5 seconds on each of 2 sides of 27 cm (alkaline solubility 50) bleached Caucasian hair strands weighing 1g, at a distance of 20 cm.
[0120] After drying, colorimetric measurements were carried out using a spectrocolorimeter (Spectrocolorimeter Konica-Minolta -Post FR-C-MCL0788) (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular components included) in the CIELab system.
[0121] In this system, a* represents the green-red axis, b* represents the blue-yellow axis. The chromaticity C* is calculated according to the formula:
[0122] C* = (a* 2 + b* 2)1 / 2
[0123] The lower the value of C*, the lower the chromaticity, and the less visible the yellow and / or orange reflections are:
[0124] [Tables2] C* Before application of composition A 26.9 After 1 application of composition A 22.7
[0125] The value of C* is significantly lower after application of composition A: the color is less chromatic.
[0126] It is also visually apparent that unsightly yellow and / or orange reflections are significantly reduced and that bleached hair has a more natural visual appearance.
[0127] The product is distributed evenly along the strands. The color is therefore more uniform.
[0128] In addition, the fixation is natural and allows the hairstyle to hold. Example 2
[0129] Composition A according to the invention and the comparative composition B were prepared
[0130] Composition (g / 100g) Ma: Active ingredient
[0131] [Tables3] • # AB VA / CROTONATES / VINY L NEODECANOATE COP OLYMER 2.6 2.6 AMINOMETHYL PROPAN OL 0.14 0.14 EXT. VIOLET 2 0.01 0.01 WATER / AQUA - 5 FRAGRANCE / PARFUM 0.28 0.28 DIMETHYL ETHER 45 45 ETHANOL QslOO QslOO The compositions were packaged in a can with the following equipment:
[0132] Valve: COSTER GI - internal jet - 0.42 / RI - Internal restriction - 1.6 Butyl stem 3.3 and an APTAR Microdiffuser with DU3832 nozzle (0.38mm)
[0133] The aerosol device according to the invention is activated and the mixture is delivered in the form of a spray.
[0134] 2.4g of composition A was sprayed on each of the 2 sides of 18cm washed and dried yak hair strands weighing 2.6g, at a distance of 15cm.
[0135] A panel of 5 experts assessed the neutralization of unsightly tones, the presence of residue, and the suppleness of dry hair in a blind test. Each of the 5 experts ranked and then scored each strand, assigning a score from 0 to the least effective side to 5 to the most effective side.
[0136] Neutralization of unsightly reflections
[0137] To assess the quality of the neutralization, each expert observes the strand immediately after the application of the composition, evaluating the neutralizing effect on the strand (less yellow, more natural color)
[0138] [Tables4] • # AB Expert 1 4 2 Expert 2 4 1 Expert 3 5 3 Expert 4 4 3 Expert 5 4 3.5 Mean 4.2 2.25 Standard deviation 0.4 1.0
[0139] 100% of the experts (5 out of 5) judged that invention A made it possible to obtain a better yellowing removal.
[0140] Residues / Particles
[0141]
[0142] To assess residues, each expert observes the strand immediately after application of the composition, evaluating the quantity of particles visible on the strand. The higher the score, the less residue there is.
[0143] [Tables 5 AB Expert 1 4 3 Expert 2 5 1 Expert 3 5 2 Expert 4 4 1 Expert 5 4.5 4 Mean 4.5 2.2 Standard deviation 0.5 1.3
[0144] 100% of the experts (5 out of 5) judged that the composition according to invention A has virtually no visible particles after application. Flexibility
[0145] To assess flexibility, the expert grasps the strand between their thumb and forefinger, bends it in half, and evaluates its resistance to bending. The higher the score, the easier it is to bend, and therefore the more flexible the strand.
[0146] [Tableauxô] AB Expert 1 3 2 Expert 2 3 1 Expert 3 4 1 Expert 4 3 2 Expert 5 3 2 Mean 3.2 1.6 Standard deviation 0.4 0.5
[0147] 100% of the experts (5 out of 5) judged that invention A made it possible to obtain a touch more flexible and therefore have a more natural, less rigid look.
Claims
Demands
1. Aerosol device comprising: - at least one pressurized container comprising: a) at least one composition comprising: i) at least one anionic fixing polymer, ii) at least one direct colorant from among the blue, green or violet colorants, and iii) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, b) at least one propellant selected from dimethyl ether, the composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition and a total quantity of direct colorant(s) ranging from 0.001% to 3% relative to the total weight of the composition, - a means for delivering the composition.
2. Device according to claim 1, characterized in that the anionic fixing polymer(s) is / are selected from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers or their salts, crotonic acid copolymers, carboxylate group polyacrylamides, sulfonic group homopolymers or copolymers, anionic polyurethanes, and anionic grafted silicone polymers, preferably from acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers or their salts and crotonic acid copolymers.
3. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic fixing polymer(s) are selected from crotonic acid, vinyl acetate, and vinyl neodecanoate terpolymers, and mixtures thereof.
4. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic fixing polymer(s) is / are present in a total amount from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 8% by weight, better from 2 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one direct dye selected from anionic direct dyes and mixtures thereof.
6. A device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one colorant direct choice from EXT. VIOLET 2, Acid Bine 62, Acid Bine 9 and Basic Violet 2, more preferably EXT. VIOLET 2, Acid Blue 62 and Acid Blue 9.
7. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises the direct colorant(s) in a total quantity from 0.005% to 1%, or better, from 0.0075% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol selected from ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, and preferably ethanol.
9. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is / are present in a total quantity ranging from 10 to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 70% by weight and even more particularly from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dimethyl ether is present in a total quantity ranging from 25 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, better from 35 to 60% by weight, better still from 40 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the container has rigid walls and directly contains the composition a) comprising the dimethyl ether b).
12. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is anhydrous.
13. A method for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising applying to the keratin fibers a composition delivered from a device according to any one of the preceding claims.
14. A method for neutralizing yellow and / or orange tints in keratin fibers such as previously bleached and / or natural hair, comprising applying to said fibers a composition delivered from a device according to any one of claims 1 to 11.
15. 18 A method for shaping keratin fibers such as previously bleached and / or natural hair, comprising applying to said fibers a composition delivered from a device according to any one of claims 1 to 12.