Process for preparing an article, particularly a cosmetic, loaded with a hydrophilic active ingredient in dry form

A cosmetic article with non-synthetic fiber support and hydrophilic binding agent ensures stable, preservative-free delivery of hydrophilic active ingredients by immobilizing them in a dry state through controlled calendering, addressing ingredient instability and degradation.

FR3143294B1Active Publication Date: 2026-03-27LOREAL SA
View PDF 0 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2022-12-14
Publication Date
2026-03-27

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Hydrophilic active ingredients in cosmetic products face instability and degradation when stored in solubilized or dispersed form in aqueous medium, necessitating the use of preservatives, which is undesirable.

Method used

A method for preparing a cosmetic article with a non-woven support sheet made of non-synthetic fibers, where hydrophilic active ingredients are immobilized in a dry state using a hydrophilic binding agent with a specific melting point, through a calendering process at controlled temperature and pressure, ensuring efficient transfer to the skin without degradation.

Benefits of technology

The method preserves the stability and effectiveness of hydrophilic active ingredients, allowing them to be transferred to the skin in a solubilized form while minimizing preservative use and maintaining environmental friendliness.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

Smart Images

  • Figure 00000025_0000
    Figure 00000025_0000
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

Method for preparing a cosmetic article, in particular a cosmetic article, loaded with a hydrophilic active ingredient in a dry form. The present invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic article adaptable to the shape of the face, neck, and / or décolleté, comprising a non-woven support sheet made of non-synthetic fibers on which is immobilized, in a dry and non-covalent state, at least one hydrophilic active ingredient intended to exert a specific action on the skin, characterized in that it comprises at least the formation, on one face of a porous, non-synthetic, non-woven support sheet, of a deposit, at least partially embedded, of a dry, powdered mixture of at least said hydrophilic active ingredient with at least said hydrophilic binding agent, and the exposure of said deposit to a calendering operation. Figure for the abstract: None
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

Title of the invention: Method for preparing an article, particularly a cosmetic article, loaded with a hydrophilic active ingredient in a dry form technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic treatment devices, in particular cosmetic product applicators. "Cosmetic product" means any composition as defined in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products.

[0002] It relates in particular to devices capable of conforming to the shape of the area to be treated and advantageously able to adapt to the contours of the face, neck and / or décolleté, like, for example, a face mask.

[0003] It also relates more particularly to the implementation of such devices for the topical administration of one or more hydrophilic active ingredients, in particular water-soluble ones, but packaged in a dry state within these devices. Prior art

[0004] Hydrophilic active ingredients can indeed exhibit instability when stored in a solubilized or dispersed form in an aqueous medium for extended periods and may therefore be subject to partial degradation during prolonged storage in this form. To prevent this undesirable phenomenon, it is common practice to add one or more preservatives to these active ingredient solutions. However, there is a desire to minimize the use of such preservatives in cosmetic products. Description of the invention

[0005] The inventors were therefore concerned with developing a new type of packaging suitable for preserving these hydrophilic active ingredients in a dry form but also compatible with solubilization or aqueous dispersion of the latter at the time of their contact with the skin area to be treated.

[0006] This formulation in the dry state at the level of a device, which is also flexible to adapt to the contours of the face, neck and / or décolletage, like for example a face mask, requires in addition to meet a number of additional requirements.

[0007] It is necessary to ensure a permanent immobilization of the powdered formulation of these active ingredients on the application surface of this device.

[0008] This same device must be suitable for packaging a wide variety of powdered formulations, both in terms of particle size and the nature of the active ingredients. inert or living.

[0009] Any agglomeration phenomenon, such as clumping, of this powder formulation at the device level, as well as any risk of degradation of these assets, must be prevented.

[0010] These active ingredients must be efficiently transferred to the skin area to be treated and in a solubilized form.

[0011] In addition to all these requirements, there are those of offering consumers an aesthetically attractive device that is also environmentally friendly and whose development involves a simple process and imposes the smallest possible carbon footprint.

[0012] As will be apparent from the following, the inventors have precisely developed such a device, also called a cosmetic article, and a corresponding manufacturing process enabling satisfaction in these terms. Summary of the invention

[0013] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a method for preparing an article, particularly a cosmetic article, adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and / or décolletage, comprising a non-woven support sheet (10) made of non-synthetic fibers and on which is immobilized, in a dry state and in a non-covalent manner, at least one hydrophilic active ingredient (11) intended to exert a specific action on the skin, characterized in that it comprises at least the steps of:

[0014] - Dispose of said active ingredient (11) in a dry, powdered form,

[0015] - To have at least one hydrophilic binding agent (12), in particular water-soluble, of melting point varying from 55 °C to 140 °C, particularly from 60 °C to 110 °C, in a dry, powdery form,

[0016] - Forming on one face of a non-woven, porous support sheet (10) and non-synthetic fibers, a deposit, at least partially deep within the material, of a dry, powdery mixture of at least said hydrophilic active ingredient with at least said hydrophilic binding agent,

[0017] - Expose said deposit to a calendering operation carried out at a temperature and pressures conducive to the melting of said binder but inactive with respect to said active ingredient and the fibers of said support sheet, and preferably at a temperature ranging from 100 °C to 140 °C and a pressure ranging from 0.4 kN to 600 kN, and in particular for less than 30 seconds, and

[0018] - Retrieve said support sheet loaded with hydrophilic active.

[0019] In particular, the calendering operation is carried out with a compression force varying from 40 kN / m2 to 10,000 kN / m2 and preferably from 100 kN / m2 to 2,000 kN / m2.

[0020] As can be seen from the above, the hydrophilic active and said binding agent are brought into contact with the face of the support sheet (10) to be impregnated, in the form of a dry powder mixture.

[0021] According to a particular embodiment, this mixture can be made directly on the area of ​​the surface of the support to be impregnated with hydrophilic active.

[0022] According to a preferred embodiment, this mixing is carried out prior to the formation of the deposit on the surface of the support to be impregnated with the hydrophilic active ingredient. More specifically, this mixing can be carried out in a horizontal or vertical powder homogenizer or grinder, either in batch or continuous operation, by introducing all the ingredients to be mixed or even ground.

[0023] Thus, the present invention relates more particularly to a variant of the process for preparing an article, in particular a cosmetic article, adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and / or décolletage, comprising a non-woven support sheet (10) made of non-synthetic fibers in which at least one hydrophilic active ingredient (11) intended to exert a specific action on the skin is immobilized in a dry state and in a non-covalent manner, characterized in that it comprises at least the steps of:

[0024] - To have a dry, powdered mixture of at least one hydrophilic active ingredient (11), in particularly water-soluble, with at least one hydrophilic binding agent (12), particularly water-soluble, with a melting point ranging from 55 °C to 140 °C,

[0025] - Forming on one face of a non-woven, porous support sheet (10) and non-synthetic fibers, a deposit, at least partially deep within, of said mixture,

[0026] - Expose said deposit to a calendering operation carried out at a temperature and pressures conducive to the melting of said binder but inactive with respect to said active ingredient and the fibers of said backing sheet, and preferably at a temperature ranging from 100 °C to 140 °C and a pressure ranging from 0.4 kN to 600 kN for less than 30 seconds, and

[0027] - Retrieve said support sheet loaded with hydrophilic active.

[0028] In the process of the invention and its embodiment, the formation of the deposit of the mixture of said hydrophilic active ingredient and said hydrophilic binding agent comprises an impregnation operation, mechanical or otherwise, dedicated to making it penetrate at least partially into the porosity of said support sheet. This operation is carried out prior to the calendering operation.

[0029] More specifically, this impregnation operation is chosen from a brushing operation, a scraping operation applied to the surface of said deposit, a vibration operation imposed on said support sheet, a suction operation applied to the face of the support sheet opposite to that supporting said mixture, or even a combination of at least two of these operations.

[0030] Thus, the deposit of the mixture, intended to be exposed to the subsequent operation of ca landrage, is distributed at least in part or preferably mainly in the porosity of the non-woven support sheet (10).

[0031] For the purposes of the invention, the expression essentially means at least 60% by weight, or even at least 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0032] The process according to the invention has the advantage of being compatible with the implementation of powder mixtures of very diverse particle sizes and in particular having a particle size varying from 1 pm to 2000 pm, and preferably varying from 5 pm to 1700 pm.

[0033] This particle size distribution can be characterized with, for example, a dry Aero disperser such as the Mastersizer 3000 laser diffraction particle size analyzer (Malvern Pa-nalytical).

[0034] Furthermore, the calendering, carried out according to the invention, has the advantage of not altering the active ingredient and the fibers of the support sheet in any way.

[0035] As detailed below, the calendering process considered according to the invention is a very short-duration calendering process, in particular one lasting less than 30 seconds. It can also be described according to the invention as "flash calendering".

[0036] In particular, the calendering temperature is set to a value higher than the melting point of the binder used, but also lower than the yellowing temperature of the fibers forming the porous, non-woven backing sheet and significantly lower than the melting point of the active ingredient to be immobilized, both considered simultaneously. Thus, the aesthetic appearance of the non-woven backing sheet is preserved after this process, and the specific action of the active ingredient on the skin, as well as its hydrophilicity, are not affected by this calendering operation.

[0037] Furthermore, when the dry active ingredient-loaded support sheet comes into contact with water, advantageously no lumping occurs. The active ingredient is fully delivered to the surface of the skin to which the active ingredient-loaded support sheet is applied.

[0038] According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophilic binder is water-soluble and has a melting point ranging from 60 °C to 110 °C.

[0039] According to a particular embodiment, the binder is a water-soluble plant exudate, and in particular comprises or consists of an exudate from Aloe Vera leaves.

[0040] According to another particular embodiment, the hydrophilic active ingredient is a vitamin, and in particular vitamin C.

[0041] In particular, said hydrophilic active and said hydrophilic binding agent are implemented in an active / binder weight ratio varying from 95 / 5 to 50 / 50, in particular from 90 / 10 to 70 / 30.

[0042] As stated above, the support sheet (10) is non-woven and is made of non-woven fibers synthetics.

[0043] More particularly, said fibrous support contains at least regenerated cellulose fibers, and where applicable wood pulp fibers and / or paper pulp fibers.

[0044] The present invention also relates to an article, in particular a cosmetic, adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and / or décolletage comprising a non-woven support sheet, made of non-synthetic fibers and which contains at least a hydrophilic active ingredient intended to exert a specific action on the skin characterized by the fact that said active ingredient is immobilized at the level of said support sheet, in the dry state, in a non-covalent manner and in association with at least a hydrophilic plant exudate and with a melting point varying from 55 °C to 140 °C.

[0045] The present invention also relates to an article, in particular a cosmetic, adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and / or décolletage comprising a non-woven support sheet comprising, in the dry state, at least one hydrophilic active ingredient intended to exert a specific action on the skin, characterized by the fact that said support comprises at least regenerated cellulose fibers and further comprises at least one hydrophilic binding agent with a melting point ranging from 55 °C to 140 °C.

[0046] The present invention further relates to the use of an article, in particular a cosmetic article according to the invention, to treat the skin of the face, neck and / or décolleté.

[0047] According to a first variant, the fibrous support of said article is moistened, in particular by soaking, imbibing, or spraying in water before application, and then applied to the skin, preferably previously moistened, being stretched or not, so as to adapt to the morphology of the user.

[0048] According to a second variant, the fibrous support of said article is applied in a dry state to wet skin.

[0049] According to a third embodiment, the fibrous support of said article is applied in a dry state to dry or wet skin, and then moistened, for example, by spraying with water. Brief description of the drawings

[0050] [Fig.1] schematically and partially represents an example of an installation for implementing the preparation process according to the invention. Detailed description

[0051] As described above, the process aims to develop an article adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and / or décolleté which is capable of containing, in a dry state, at least one hydrophilic and in particular water-soluble active ingredient and of ensuring its release on contact with water.

[0052] The development of the process according to the invention is based in particular on the inventors' observation that the calendering technique, and in particular as considered According to the invention, it allows simple and reproducible access to such an article subject to a specific choice of support and to combine with this hydrophilic active ingredient a binding agent that is also hydrophilic and has a melting point that is particularly adjusted.

[0053] Advantageously, the method according to the invention is devoid of the implementation of an alternating electric field or ultrasound to immobilize said asset on said support.

[0054] Similarly, the process according to the invention is devoid of the use of a thermoplastic binding agent or a crosslinking agent or a thermosetting resin to immobilize said active on said support. fibrous support

[0055] As specified above, the constituent fibers of the support considered according to the invention for immobilizing at least one hydrophilic, and in particular water-soluble, active ingredient are non-synthetic fibers.

[0056] For the purposes of the invention, non-synthetic fibers are fibers not derived from materials exclusively accessible by chemical synthesis such as, for example, a synthetic polymer.

[0057] Thus, the non-synthetic fibers retained according to the invention are advantageously chosen from among natural fibers of material of natural origin such as for example natural cellulose fibers, fibers generated from at least one material of natural origin such as for example natural cellulose, recycled cellulosic fibers such as for example circulose, bio-based fibers such as for example fibers obtained by bio-fermentation such as for example microbial cellulose and mycelium foam and their mixtures.

[0058] These fibers are advantageously hydrophilic, absorbent and, moreover, not subject to yellowing when exposed to a temperature strictly below 150 °C, preferably strictly below 130 °C. They are also non-heat-fusible.

[0059] In particular, non-synthetic fibers are chosen from natural cellulose fibers, regenerated cellulose fibers, wood pulp fibers, paper fibers, fibers from seeds such as cotton and kapok, fibers from plant stems such as flax, hemp, jute and nettle, fibers from leaves such as abaca, fibers from fruits such as coconut and mixtures thereof.

[0060] For the purposes of the invention, "a regenerated cellulose fiber" is a fiber obtained from natural cellulose transformed by a succession of chemical operations, in particular as specified below for the Lyocell product.

[0061] The natural cellulose used to manufacture regenerated cellulose fibers can thus originating from different wood pulps (beech, white pine, eucalyptus ...), or even from bamboo pulp.

[0062] According to a particular embodiment, the constituent fibers of the fibrous support comprise at least and in particular consist of regenerated cellulose fibers, notably like those of the Lyocell product.

[0063] More specifically, this product is obtained from wood pulp which is mixed with an environmentally friendly organic dissolving agent and water. The mixture is then heated under vacuum to remove the water until the cellulose dissolves and a spinning solution is formed. This solution is then filtered and pressed through spinnerets before being placed in a spinning bath where the fibers are formed. Such a product is marketed under the names Tencel® and Veocel®.

[0064] According to another particular embodiment, the fibrous support considered according contains at least wood pulp fibers.

[0065] According to another particular embodiment, the fibrous support contains regenerated cellulose fibers and one or more other fibers selected from wood pulp fibers, paper fibers, fibers from seeds such as cotton and kapok, fibers from plant stems such as flax, hemp, jute and nettle, fibers from leaves such as abaca, fibers from fruits such as coconut and mixtures thereof.

[0066] According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support contains regenerated cellulose fibers and wood pulp fibers and / or paper pulp fibers and in particular regenerated cellulose fibers and wood pulp fibers.

[0067] Representative examples of fibrous supports consisting of such fiber mixtures include Tricell® non-woven supports from Ecowipes, CAC supports from Mondi, Sontara® supports from Glatfelter and BioLace® supports from Suominen.

[0068] According to a particular embodiment, the synthetic fibers constituting said fibrous support consist of regenerated cellulose fibers and wood pulp fibers.

[0069] According to another particular embodiment, the fibrous support contains regenerated cellulose fibers and recycled non-synthetic textile fibers.

[0070] As specified above, the fibrous support is in the form of a sheet or in other words a plate of thin fibrous material.

[0071] The constituent fibers of said support are not woven and therefore their structural organization provides porosity at the level of the support sheet considered according to the invention.

[0072] The porosity of the fibrous support can be characterized by optical microscopy. The porosity of the nonwoven fabric can also be characterized by its air permeability.

[0073] In particular, the fibrous and porous support not loaded with active ingredients according to the invention can have a surface mass varying from 35 g.cm2 to 80 g.cm2, preferably from 40 g.cm2 to 50 g.cm2.

[0074] This porosity is particularly conducive to loading the non-woven fibrous support with a significant amount of hydrophilic active ingredient. This porosity is also conducive to bringing the active ingredient immobilized on the non-woven fibrous support considered according to the invention into contact with water.

[0075] According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support recovered according to the process of the invention is loaded with at least 10 g / m2, or even with at least 25 g / m2 of hydrophilic active. Hydrophilic active ingredient

[0076] For the purposes of the invention, "hydrophilic active" means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

[0077] In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient is a water-soluble active ingredient.

[0078] It can be represented by a single active ingredient or a mixture of hydrophilic active ingredients. For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrophilic active ingredient" covers both of these alternatives.

[0079] Immobilized at the level of the fibrous support, the hydrophilic active ingredient retains its properties, in particular its cosmetic activity and its hydrophilicity. In other words, its native properties are not affected by the calendering operation carried out, in particular, at a temperature ranging from 100 °C to 140 °C and a pressure ranging from 0.4 kN to 600 kN for its immobilization.

[0080] It is present in the substrate it impregnates, in a dry and powdery state. It may be a native powder but also a powder obtained by conventional drying or by spray drying, or freeze-drying for example.

[0081] For the purposes of the invention, the term dry means that the ingredient concerned, in particular the active ingredient as well as the hydrophilic binder detailed below, contains less than 6% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight of water, and more preferably less than 2% by weight of water, relative to its total weight.

[0082] A dry ingredient thus exhibits excellent powdery fluidity, conducive to its intimate mixing with other ingredients and to its penetration into the porosity of the support sheet considered.

[0083] The asset, immobilized according to the invention, is not covalently bound to the fibrous support and is therefore able to free itself from it by interacting with an aqueous medium.

[0084] This active ingredient may in particular be an antioxidant, healing, moisturizing, depigmenting, and / or anti-aging agent.

[0085] By way of representative and illustrative examples of these categories of assets, the following compounds may be cited in particular: C-glycosides compounds

[0086] In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from among the C-glycoside compounds, with the following general formula:

[0087] [Chem.l] S' ^X—R

[0088] in which:

[0089] - R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical in Ci-C4, in particular in Ci-C2, in in particular methyl;

[0090] - S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N- acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

[0091] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, and preferably tially a -CH(OH)- group;

[0092] as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

[0093] By way of illustration and not limitation of C-glycosides more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in particular:

[0094] - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0095] - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0096] - C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0097] - C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0098] - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0099] - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0100] - l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

[0101] - l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

[0102] - the 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;

[0103] - the 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;

[0104] - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane;

[0105] - l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

[0106] as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers. Compound of niacinamide

[0107] In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from niacinamide (also known as Vitamin B3), N,N-diethylniacinamide, N-picolylniacinamide, N-allylniacinamide. Adenosine and its analogues

[0108] In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient may be chosen from adenosine and its analogues such as 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-isopropoylidene adenosine, toyocamycin, the 1-methyladenosine; N-6-methyladenosine, adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, 6-chloropurine riboside, 5'-adenosine monophosphate, 5'-adenosine diphosphate and 5'-adenosine triphosphate, phenylisopropyladenosine (PIA), 1-methylisoguanosine, N-6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N-6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N-6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N-6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, N-6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxyethyl)phenethylamino-5'-Nethylcarboxamidoadenosine (CGS-21680), N-10-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, metrifudil, erythro-9-(2-hydroxy3-nonyl) adenine (EHNA) and Fiodotubercidin.

[0109] Adenosine is notably available commercially in powder form from the company Pharma Waldhof. Ascorbic acid and derivatives

[0110] In particular, the cosmetic active ingredient may be chosen from ascorbic acid, also called Vitamin C, in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and its analogues chosen from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated ascorbic acid, its sugar esters and its phosphorylated metal salts.

[0111] The sugar esters of ascorbic acid usable in the invention include, in particular, glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof, and more specifically ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-[3-D-galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds, as well as their preparation processes, are described in particular in documents EP 487 404 and EP 425 066.

[0112] The phosphorylated ascorbic acid metal salt can be selected from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

[0113] The ascorbic acid derivatives may be selected from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate marketed under the reference PRO-AA by Exsymol, potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-dl-ascorbyl-phosphate marketed under the reference Sepivital EPC by Senju Pharmaceutical, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate marketed under the reference Stay-C 50 by Roche and ascorbyl glucoside marketed by Hayashibara.

[0114] This may in particular refer to the product marketed by BASF under the name Ascorbic Acid / 80 Mesh.

[0115] According to a particular method, the support according to the invention is loaded with at least one vitamin, and in particular vitamin C or one of its derivatives, notably its salts. Hyaluronic acid

[0116] In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives.

[0117] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" covers in particular the basic motif of hyaluronic acid of formula:

[0118] [Chem.2]

[0119] The term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” also includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, in a chain of alternating glycosidic linkages [3(1,4) and [3(1,3)], having a molecular weight (MW) that can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of the hyaluronic acid and / or the preparation methods.

[0120] The term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also covers, according to the invention, salts of hyaluronic acid and in particular alkaline salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt.

[0121] In its natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in pericellular gels, in the basic substance of connective tissues of vertebrate organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in articular synovial fluid, in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the cristae cristae.

[0122] Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" includes all fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular within the molecular weight range recalled above.

[0123] In the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions that do not exhibit inflammatory activity.

[0124] As an illustration of the different fractions of hyaluronic acid, reference can be made to the document "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich System", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the listed biological activities of hyaluronic acid according to its molecular weight.

[0125] Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes hyaluronic acid esters, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxyl groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxy-alkyls. thylenes, comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, notably with a substitution rate at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid varying from 0.5% to 50%.

[0126] Examples include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid. Such esters were notably described in D. Campoccia et al. “Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification”, Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

[0127] Hyaluronic acid may be available in particular from Hyactive under the trade name CPN (MW: 10 to 150 kDa), from Soliance under the trade name Cristalhyal (MW: 1.1 x 106), from Bioland under the name Nutra HA (MW: 820000 Da), from Bioland under the name Nutra AF (MW: 69000 Da), from Bioland under the name Oligo HA (MW: 6100 Da) or from Vam Farmacos Metica under the name D Factor (MW: 380 Da).

[0128] Preferably, sodium hyaluronate is used. Salicylic acid compounds

[0129] In particular, this cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from among the salicylic acid compounds.

[0130] The salicylic acid compound is preferably selected from salicylic acid and compounds of the following formula:

[0131] [Chem.3]

[0132] in which:

[0133] - the radical R designates an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic ring linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0134] - R' is a hydroxyl group;

[0135] as well as their salts derived from a mineral or organic base.

[0136] Among the particularly preferred salicylic acid compounds are n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid), n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-heptanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and their corresponding salts.

[0137] The salicylic acid compound is preferably chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, and more preferably is n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

[0138] The salts of the compounds with the formula illustrated above can be obtained by saltification with a mineral or organic base. Examples of mineral bases include alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or ammonia.

[0139] Among the organic bases, amines and alkanolamines can be mentioned. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly interesting.

[0140] This active ingredient can also be a plant extract such as madecassoside, extracted from Centella asiatica.

[0141] More specifically, this asset can be chosen from:

[0142] - vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as in particular nia- cinamide (3-pyridinecarboxamide), nicotinamide (vitamin B3), provitamin B5 also known as panthenol, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid and its derivatives (vitamin C),

[0143] - moisturizers, such as in particular urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, poly- glycerols, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucosides, xylityl glucoside and plant extracts, notably from tea, mint, orchid, soy, aloe vera, honey, and in particular glycerol,

[0144] - C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydro- rantriol (or proxlane)

[0145] - antioxidant compounds,

[0146] - anti-aging active ingredients, such as, for example, hyaluronic acid compounds, and including sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentylacetic acid,

[0147] - keratolytic agents such as, in particular, lactic acid or glycolic acid, And

[0148] - their mixtures.

[0149] Preferably, an article according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble cosmetic active ingredient selected from moisturizers, C-glycoside compounds, and preferably hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds, and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid, adenosine and its analogues, plant extracts such as madecassoside, niacinamide compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] Even more preferably, an article according to the invention comprises at least one anti-aging cosmetic active ingredient, in particular selected from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, or proxylane, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, salicylic acid compounds, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof, more particularly selected from hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, adenosine, niacinamide compounds, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0151] According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support obtained according to the invention contains at least vitamin C and in particular from 15 g / m2 to 35 g / m2 of vitamin C.

[0152] According to a particular embodiment, said cosmetic active constitutes 50% to 95% by weight, and in particular 70% to 90% by weight of the total weight of dry matter immobilized at the level of said support. hydrophilic binding agent

[0153] As specified above, the hydrophilic active according to the invention is immobilized on the substrate in association with at least one hydrophilic binder with a melting point ranging from 55 °C to 140 °C, in particular from 60 °C to 110 °C.

[0154] The binder is also available in a dry form.

[0155] In particular, it is water-soluble.

[0156] The binder has a melting temperature below 150 °C, preferably below 130 °C, in order to be efficiently melted during the calendering process, i.e. in less than 15 seconds.

[0157] Furthermore, as the binder is exposed to a calendering step, it must not be subject to a yellowing phenomenon at a temperature strictly below 100 °C, preferably strictly below 130 °C.

[0158] In addition to its ability to contribute to the immobilization of the active ingredient at the level of the fibrous support, the binder may also have a cosmetic activity with respect to the skin, and possibly provide a cosmetic effect, in synergy or not, with the effect attached to the active ingredient impregnated in the fibrous support.

[0159] According to a particular embodiment, the binder is a plant exudate.

[0160] According to a particular embodiment, the water-soluble binder comprises and in particular consists of an exudate from Aloe Vera leaves.

[0161] As a representative example of such an exudate, reference may be made to the commercial product Aloe Vera Freeze Dried Powder® 200:1 from Mexi Aloe Lab.

[0162] According to a particular embodiment, the fibrous support loaded according to the invention contains vitamin C, and at least one exudate of Aloe Vera leaves, and in particular 15 g / m2 to 35 g / m2 of vitamin C.

[0163] According to another particular embodiment, the fibrous support loaded according to the invention comprises at least regenerated cellulose fibers and contains vitamin C, in particular from 15 g / m2 to 35 g / m2 of vitamin C.

[0164] According to another particular embodiment, the fibrous support loaded according to the invention comprises at least regenerated cellulose fibers and contains at least vitamin C and an exudate of Aloe Vera leaves and in particular 15 g / m2 to 35 g / m2 of vitamin C.

[0165] In addition to at least one hydrophilic active ingredient and at least one hydrophilic binder according to the invention, the fibrous support recovered at the end of the process may contain one or more additional compounds. Additional compounds

[0166] Additional compounds may include anti-caking agents, powder flow aids, stabilizers, pH regulators and buffers.

[0167] These additional compounds are also present in dry form and in particular in powder form.

[0168] In a particular embodiment, the recovered fibrous support according to the invention further contains at least one anti-caking agent which can in particular be chosen from silica, sodium carbonate, talc, a bamboo exudate (rich in silica) and mixtures thereof, and in particular at least silica.

[0169] In particular, the powder mixture considered to form the deposit may contain from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of anti-caking agent(s), relative to the total weight of active dry matter (active + binder).

[0170] In a particular embodiment, the fibrous support loaded according to the invention further contains at least one stabilizer which may in particular be sodium citrate.

[0171] In particular, the powder mixture considered to form the deposit may contain from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of stabilizer(s), relative to the total weight of active dry matter (active + binder).

[0172] In a particular embodiment, the fibrous support loaded according to the invention further contains at least one thickener or texturizer.

[0173] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that their properties are not, or substantially not, altered by the impregnation process according to the invention to which they are subjected.

[0174] According to an advantageous embodiment, the fibrous support obtained according to the invention is preferably free of compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment, that is to say, it comprises less than 0.01% by weight, or is even devoid of compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment.

[0175] Thus, it is in particular free of silicone compound and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and preferably is free of silicone compound and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. Preparation method according to the invention

[0176] The process according to the invention requires bringing a dry powder form of the hydrophilic active, to be immobilized, into contact with the non-woven and porous fibrous support to be impregnated, in the presence of a hydrophilic binding agent with a specific melting point.

[0177] This process can be implemented with a fibrous support processing installation, such as that schematically illustrated in [Fig. 1], comprising:

[0178] - a reel 30 from which the non-woven fibrous support S to be treated is unwound,

[0179] - a powder mixing unit 15,

[0180] - a powder deposition unit 20 on the support S,

[0181] - a mechanical processing unit 25, for deeper penetration into the support S the powder previously deposited by unit 20,

[0182] - an inline sliding mat, optionally,

[0183] - a calendering unit 40 disposed between the coils 30 and 50, downstream of the unit 25, comprising for example two rollers between which the support passes, and

[0184] - a coil 50 onto which the support thus treated after calendering is wound.

[0185] The installation also includes all the conventional equipment necessary for the implementation of the process, such as rollers and / or conveyor and guide belts for the non-woven fabric, heating means, cutting means for the finished support, etc.

[0186] Where appropriate, reel 50 can be removed by a cutting and packaging station for the support, if this is done in-line. a) Formation of the deposit

[0187] In particular, the method according to the invention is devoid of pre-heating of the support sheet S before the deposit of the asset to be immobilized.

[0188] Generally, the support sheet S to be treated is unwound from a reel 30 and circulated between this reel and a reel 50 onto which it is wound after treatment according to the invention.

[0189] According to one embodiment, this bringing together of the active ingredient and the binder can be carried out directly on the surface of the area of ​​the support S to be loaded with the active ingredient.

[0190] According to another embodiment, this contact is made prior to the surface deposition operation of the area of ​​the support S to be actively loaded. This method The manufacturing process is advantageous for forming an intimate mixture between the two ingredients considered, or even for adjusting a particle size range to the mixture thus formed, which is in line with the porosity of the support S to be loaded with active ingredient.

[0191] The powders of each of the ingredients can be pre-ground individually, or even simultaneously in a powder mixing unit 10, for example a mechanical mill or a centrifuge.

[0192] According to a particular embodiment, the powders of each of the ingredients, hydrophilic active and hydrophilic binder, or even if present, one or more other additional compounds in particular as defined above, are respectively introduced in the form of a dry powder into the powder mixing unit 10 such as a batch powder mixer in order to mix them intimately.

[0193] The deposition of the mixture on one of the faces of the support sheet to be loaded can be carried out by a powder deposition unit 20 on the support S according to a technique such as sprinkling, using a powder funnel, or by spraying using, for example, a nozzle.

[0194] For example, this deposition may include a step of sprinkling the powdered mixture to be impregnated onto the top of the fibrous support. The support S thus coated with the mixture may then be subjected to a mechanical operation, in particular as detailed below, dedicated to making the mixture penetrate the porosity of the support.

[0195] The sprinkling is generally carried out over the entire surface of the substrate S to be impregnated. In some cases, it is possible to use localized sprinkling or to use a stencil to impregnate only certain areas of the substrate.

[0196] The formation of the mixture deposit includes in particular an impregnation operation, mechanical or otherwise, dedicated to making said mixture penetrate at least in part into the porosity of said support sheet.

[0197] Thus, to obtain a uniform impregnation of the deposit and at least partially in depth, it is also advantageous to implement a mechanical processing unit 25, to make the powder previously deposited by the unit 20 penetrate deeper into the support S.

[0198] Thus, it is advantageous that this deposit be formed, jointly or not, with an impregnation operation, in particular chosen from among a brushing operation, a scraping operation applied to the surface of said deposit, a vibration operation imposed on said support sheet, a suction operation applied to the face of the support sheet opposite to that supporting said mixture, or even a combination of at least two of these operations.

[0199] For example, it may involve vibrating or shaking the surface deposit of the support S to stimulate the movement of the powder deposited on the surface of the support by the deposition unit 20 within the porosity of the fibrous support.

[0200] Representative examples of these impregnation techniques include those based on the use of a vibratory device such as a vibrating mat.

[0201] Another impregnation technique can be based on air suction applied to the reverse side of the powder-loaded substrate face. This suction would advantageously allow for the recovery of excess powder.

[0202] The deposit is said to be "partially formed in depth", on the grounds that the powdery mixture may not be entirely distributed in the pores of the fibrous support and that a part may remain on the surface.

[0203] Generally, this deposit is formed at ambient temperature 21 °C + / -5 °C and at atmospheric pressure. b) Calendering operation

[0204] This operation takes place following the deposition of the powdered mixture.

[0205] As can be seen from [Fig.1], the calendering unit 40 can be arranged between a reel 30 from which the support S to be treated is unwound downstream of the unit 25, and a reel 50, between which the support S passes.

[0206] The parameters of the calendering operation, namely temperature, pressure and time, are in fact adjusted to lead to the melting of the binding agent in question while preventing the manifestation of an undesirable side effect with regard to the hydrophilic active and the fibers constituting the support, which are also exposed to this calendering.

[0207] In other words, the calendering operation does not alter the integrity, effectiveness, or hydrophilicity of the active ingredient, nor does it generate a significant yellowing of the constituent fibers of the nonwoven backing. The latter remains aesthetically pleasing to the user after calendering.

[0208] This calendering is also called flash calendering because it is carried out on the scale of the second and in particular in a duration of less than 50 seconds, and preferably less than 30 seconds.

[0209] According to a particular embodiment, the calendering operation is carried out at a temperature varying from 100 °C to 140 °C and a pressure varying from 0.4 kN to 600 kN for less than 30 seconds, preferably for less than 15 seconds.

[0210] This calendering operation is generally carried out using an in-line heated calender.

[0211] At the end of this calendering step, a fibrous support sheet impregnated with at least one water-soluble active ingredient in the dry state is obtained.

[0212] This impregnation rate can in particular be characterized according to the method detailed in the experimental part and which is based on the characterization of a content by weight at the level of the fibrous support loaded according to the invention.

[0213] In this case, the fibrous support is weighed following the flash calendering step and The sample is mounted on a Bose® test bench (model 3330). Weighted by attaching a 4 g clamp to its end, it is shaken for 30 seconds at a frequency of 10 Hz and with an amplitude of 12 mm. It is then weighed a second time. The ratio between the post-shake weight and the pre-shake weight determines the degree of powder impregnation within the fibrous material.

[0214] Of course, other technologies for measuring the impregnation rate can be considered, such as those based on image analysis (using an optical microscope or a digital camera).

[0215] According to a particular embodiment, the impregnation rate of the loaded fibrous support can vary from 70% to 100%, in particular from 80% to 100%, in particular from 95% to 100%.

[0216] The article obtained according to the invention is in particular in the form of a face mask, a wipe, a disc or pad (“pad”) and in particular in the form of a face mask.

[0217] According to another embodiment, the support sheet has perforations and / or cutouts.

[0218] According to a particular embodiment, the article may contain a reservoir containing the aqueous medium dedicated to the hydration of said active ingredient.

[0219] In connection with the invention, a cosmetic treatment process is also described and proposed, in particular for cleansing and / or caring for the skin, in particular the face, neck and / or décolleté, comprising at least the step of applying to the skin to be treated a fibrous support sheet loaded with hydrophilic active ingredient of an article according to the invention, in the presence of an aqueous medium or even water.

[0220] According to one embodiment, the fibrous support sheet is loaded with an aqueous medium or even water prior to its application to the skin. In particular, this loading can be carried out by immersing the support in an aqueous medium or even water, by soaking it with an aqueous medium, or by spraying the support with an aqueous medium or even water.

[0221] According to another embodiment, the fibrous support sheet is applied to moistened skin.

[0222] According to yet another embodiment, the fibrous support sheet is applied to dry or moistened skin, and is then brought into contact with an aqueous environment or even water, in particular by spraying or moistening.

[0223] The fibrous support sheet is kept on the skin for a determined time and adjusted to the release of the active ingredient in its water-soluble or water-dispersible form.

[0224] Generally this duration can vary from 1 minute to 30 minutes, or even from 2 minutes to 20 minutes, being for example in the order of 10-15 minutes approximately.

[0225] This process can be particularly useful for rehydration and anti-wrinkle treatments, anti-puffiness, or anti-swelling, or even to provide a plumping effect.

[0226] The following examples and figures are presented for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. Materials and methods

[0227] Ascorbic acid is a commercial powdered product available from BASF under the name Ascorbic Acid / 80 Mesh. Its particle size expressed in micrometers is as follows: D10 = 35+ / -5, D50 = 160+ / -70, D90 = 350+ / -155 and its melting point is greater than 180 °C.

[0228] Aloe Vera exudate is a commercial powdered product available from Mexi Aloe Laboratorios (marketed by Rossow). Its particle size, expressed in micrometers, is as follows: D10 = 20, D50 = 55, D90 = 1700 and its melting point varies from 67 °C to 108 °C.

[0229] The porous, non-woven backing is made of Lyocell material. This material is available from the supplier Jacob Holm (roll width = 32 cm, thickness = 0.5 mm, and surface mass = 50 g / m²). The fibrous backing used for the tests is cut from this non-woven roll in the form of discs. Powder loss protocol:

[0230] To quantify the impregnation of the powder within the fibrous support, the following protocol is implemented:

[0231] The fibrous support is weighed after the calendering step and is fixed to a Bose® test bench (model 3330). The fibrous support is then weighted by attaching a 4 g clamp to its end. The fibrous support is then shaken for 30 seconds at a frequency of 10 Hz and with an amplitude of 12 mm. At the end of the sequence, the support is weighed a second time. The ratio of the post-shake weight to the pre-shake weight determines the powder impregnation rate within the fibrous material. The ratio of the pre-shake weight minus the post-shake weight to the pre-shake weight determines the powder loss rate due to shaking. Example 1

[0232] Impregnation of powdered ascorbic acid onto a non-woven disc according to the invention

[0233] A first step consists of grinding 100 g of a mixture of ascorbic acid and Aloe Vera in a weight ratio of 85:15 respectively by centrifugation. This grinding is carried out using a Stuart Sr4® centrifugal mill; the mill is filled to one-third of its maximum capacity and then grinding takes place for 1 h at maximum power in order to obtain a mixture for deposition with particle sizes as follows: D10 = 16, D50 = 45, D90 = 94 µm.

[0234] The resulting powdered mixture is then manually applied by sprinkling onto the fibrous disc, and the powder is then spread evenly and homogeneously over the surface of the fibrous material using a brush. The operation is complete when the surface mass of ascorbic acid reaches 25 g.m2.

[0235] The disc and its resulting deposit are then placed on a preheated aluminum plate (15 cm x 15 cm) in contact with the press and covered with a sheet of Teflon®-coated fiberglass fabric. The assembly is then subjected to a pressing process using a Fontijne Presses LabEcon 600 heated platen press at a pressure of 30 kN and a temperature of 130 °C for 5 seconds.

[0236] The fibrous disc thus loaded is characterized as having a powder loss of approximately 20% and a very minor, and therefore insignificant, yellowing is observed. Example 2

[0237] Impregnation of powdered ascorbic acid onto a non-woven disc according to the invention

[0238] The process of Example 1 is reproduced except that the centrifugation operation is replaced by mechanical grinding of 100 g of a mixture of ascorbic acid and Aloe Vera with a weight ratio of 85:15 respectively. The mechanical grinding is carried out using a Fritsch "pulverissette 14", agitation takes place for a few seconds at a speed of 6000 rpm so as to obtain a mixture for deposition with the following particle sizes: D10 = 19, D50 = 57, D90 = 124.

[0239] The disc thus loaded is also characterized as having a powder loss of about 16% and a very minor, therefore insignificant, yellowing is observed.

Claims

Demands

1. A method for preparing an article, particularly a cosmetic, adaptable to the shape of the face, neck and / or décolletage, comprising a non-woven backing sheet (10) made of non-synthetic fibers on which at least one hydrophilic active ingredient (11) intended to exert a specific action on the skin is immobilized in a dry, non-covalent state, characterized in that it comprises at least the steps of: - Disposing of said active ingredient (11) in a dry, powdered form, - Disposing of at least one hydrophilic binding agent (12), in particular water-soluble, with a melting point ranging from 55°C to 140°C, in a dry, powdered form, - Forming, on one side of a porous, non-synthetic, non-woven backing sheet (10), a deposit, at least partially embedded, of a dry, powdered mixture of at least said hydrophilic active ingredient with at least said hydrophilic binding agent,- Expose said deposit to a calendering operation carried out at a temperature and pressure conducive to the melting of said binder but inactive with respect to said active ingredient and said fibers of said support sheet, and preferably at a temperature ranging from 100 °C to 140 °C and a pressure of 40 kN / m2 to 10,000 kN / m2, and in particular for less than 30 seconds, and - Recover said support sheet loaded with hydrophilic active ingredient.

2. A method according to the preceding claim, wherein said mixture is made prior to the formation of the deposit on the face of the support sheet to be impregnated with hydrophilic active.

3. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the formation of the deposit of said mixture of said hydrophilic active and said hydrophilic binding agent comprises an impregnation operation, mechanical or otherwise, dedicated to causing said mixture to penetrate at least partially into the porosity of said support sheet.

4. A method according to the preceding claim, wherein said impregnation operation is selected from a brushing operation, a scraping operation applied to the surface of said deposit, a vibration operation imposed on said support sheet, a suction operation applied to the face of the support sheet opposite to that supporting said mixture, or even a combination of at least two of these operations.

5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said calendering operation is carried out with a compression ranging from 100 kN / m2 to 2,000 kN / m2.

6. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said non-synthetic fibers are selected from natural fibers of naturally sourced material, fibers generated from at least one naturally sourced material, recycled cellulosic fibers, bio-based fibers and mixtures thereof.

7. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the constituent fibers of the fibrous support consist of regenerated cellulose fibers.

8. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the constituent fibers of said fibrous support comprise regenerated cellulose fibers and one or more other fibers selected from wood pulp fibers, paper fibers, fibers from seeds such as cotton and kapok, fibers from plant stems such as flax, hemp, jute and nettle, fibers from leaves such as abaca, fibers from fruits such as coconut and mixtures thereof.

9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6 and 8 wherein the constituent fibers of said fibrous support comprise regenerated cellulose fibers and wood pulp fibers and / or paper pulp fibers and in particular regenerated cellulose fibers and wood pulp fibers.

10. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said recovered fibrous support is loaded with at least 10 g / m2, or even with at least 25 g / m2, of hydrophilic active.

11. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said active ingredient is water-soluble and selected from moisturizers, C-glycoside compounds, and in particular hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, hyaluronic acid compounds and in particular sodium hyaluronate, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid, adenosine and its analogues, plant extracts such as in particular madecassoside, niacinamide compounds, and mixtures thereof.

12. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said cosmetic active constitutes from 50% to 95% by weight, and in in particular 70% to 90% by weight of the total weight of dry matter immobilized at the level of said support.

13. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said hydrophilic binder is water-soluble and has a melting point ranging from 60 °C to 110 °C.

14. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said water-soluble binder is a plant exudate and in particular comprises or consists of an exudate from Aloe Vera leaves.

15. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said loaded fibrous support contains vitamin C, and at least one exudate of Aloe Vera leaves, and in particular 15 g / m2 to 35 g / m2 of vitamin C.

16. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said loaded fibrous support comprises regenerated cellulose fibers and contains vitamin C, in particular from 15 g / m2 to 35 g / m2 of vitamin C.

17. . A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said recovered fibrous support further contains at least one anti-caking agent and in particular silica.

18. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said article is in the form of a face mask, a wipe, a disc or a pad.