COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR ACNE CONTROL AND RELATED PROCESSES
A cosmetic composition with specific alpha hydroxy acids and poly(hydroxy) acids addresses the harshness and instability of existing acne treatments, offering effective acne control and acne mark reduction with improved sensory comfort and stability.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023001426
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-02-16
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-31
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-02-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing acne control products are harsh, unstable, and ineffective in treating acne and reducing acne marks, while providing poor sensory comfort and dual benefits.
A cosmetic composition comprising at least one polymer, two or more alpha hydroxy acids with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and at least one poly(hydroxy) acid in a specific weight ratio, along with optional additives, which is stable, non-sticky, and provides effective acne control and acne mark reduction.
The composition offers instant sebum control, balanced hydration, even skin tone, and reduced acne marks with no irritation, providing a comfortable sensory experience and long-term skin benefits.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR ACNE CONTROL AND ASSOCIATED METHODS FIELD OF INVENTION
[0001] This disclosure relates to the field of cosmetic compositions, in particular, to compositions for acne control. This disclosure also relates to the composition preparation process and a method for treating acne. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Acne is the most common skin condition affecting people of all ages and races. More specifically, acne is an inflammatory disease in which hair follicles become clogged with dead skin cells and excess sebum. Furthermore, clogged hair follicles provide a nutrient-rich environment for skin bacteria to thrive, causing inflammation in the form of swelling, redness, heat, and pain. In the worst cases, the walls of the clogged follicles rupture, releasing dead skin cells and bacteria onto the surrounding skin, resulting in lesions or pimples, which then develop into acne marks, causing temporary or even permanent textural irregularities of the skin. Thus, acne causes mental stress, particularly among teenagers and young adults.
[0003] Severe cases of acne require medical intervention. However, for early and mild cases of acne, consumers prefer to use over-the-counter cosmetic or dermatological products to quickly relieve inflammation and get rid of acne marks.
[0004] Although several acne control products exist on the market that aim to treat acne by exfoliating the skin, they tend to be harsh and suffer from product instability and poor sensory aspects. Furthermore, these products are not effective in providing the dual benefits of treating existing acne and reducing past acne marks.
[0005] Therefore, there is a need for an all-in-one acne control product to effectively control acne, reduce acne marks, provide an even and brighter complexion, as well as sensory comfort. Summary of the invention
[0006] The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one polymer; (b) two or more alpha hydroxy acids; and (c) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid comprises 2 to 4 atoms of carbon; and the two or more alpha hydroxy acids and the poly(hydroxy) acid are in a weight ratio range of 3:2 to 1.5:0.5.
[0007] Another object of the invention is a method for treating a keratinous material, preferably skin, comprising the step of applying the composition comprising: (a) at least one polymer; (b) two or more alpha hydroxy acids; and (c) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid, on the skin, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid has 2 to 4 carbon atoms; and the two or more alpha hydroxy acids and the poly(hydroxy) acid are in a weight ratio range of 3:2 to 1.5:0.5.
[0008] Another object of the invention is the use of the composition comprising: (a) at least one polymer; (b) two or more alpha hydroxy acids; and (c) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid, for treating acne on the skin, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid has 2 to 4 carbon atoms; and the two or more alpha hydroxy acids and the poly(hydroxy) acid are in a weight ratio range of 3:2 to 1.5:0.5.
[0009] Another object of the invention is a method for treating acne on the skin, the method comprising: the application of the composition as described herein to the skin.
[0010] These features, aspects, and advantages, as well as others, of the present subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description and the accompanying claims. This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0011] Those skilled in the art will be aware that this disclosure is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is understood that this disclosure includes all such variations and modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions, and compounds referred to or indicated in this specification, individually or collectively, and any combination thereof.
[0012] Definitions
[0013] For convenience, before describing this disclosure in more detail, certain terms used in the descriptive memorandum and examples are defined here. These definitions should be read in light of the rest of the disclosure and understood as by a person skilled in the art. The terms used herein have meanings recognized and known to persons skilled in the art; however, for convenience and completeness, specific terms and their meanings are set forth below.
[0014] The terms "understand" and "including" are used in an inclusive sense and open, meaning that additional elements can be included. It is not meant to be interpreted as "consisting solely of".
[0015] The expression "at least one" is used to mean one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0016] Throughout this descriptive document, unless the context otherwise requires, the term "include", and variations such as "includes" and "including", shall be understood as implying the inclusion of any element or step or group of elements or steps stated, but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of elements or steps.
[0017] The term "including" is used to mean "including, but not limited to". "Including" and "including, but not limited to" are used interchangeably.
[0018] The term "approximately" is used to denote an acceptable range of error for the particular value as determined by a person of ordinary competence in the art, which may depend in part on how the value is measured or determined, i.e., the limitations of the measuring system. For example, "approximately" may mean within 1 or more standard deviations, according to the practice of the art. Where particular values are described in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated, the term "approximately" shall be assumed to mean within an acceptable range of error for the particular value.
[0019] The term “INCI” is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to identify ingredients of cosmetic or personal care products.
[0020] The expression "salicylic acid-free composition" or "salicylic acid-free composition" as used herein means that the cosmetic composition as disclosed herein is essentially free of ingredients containing salicylic acid. In particular, "essentially free of any ingredient containing salicylic acid" means that ingredients containing salicylic acid may be present in the composition in an amount of less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is completely free of salicylic acid.
[0021] The expression "silicone-free composition" or "silicone-free composition" as used herein means that the cosmetic composition as disclosed herein is essentially free of silicone-containing ingredients. In particular, "essentially free of any silicone-containing ingredients" means that silicone-containing ingredients may be present in the composition in an amount less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is completely free of silicone.
[0022] All percentages, parts, and ratios are based on the total weight of the compositions in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated. Ratios, concentrations, quantities, and other numerical data may be presented herein in a range format. It should be understood that this range format is used solely for convenience and conciseness and should be interpreted flexibly to include not only the numerical values explicitly stated as the range limits, but also to include all individual numerical values or subranges within that range as if each numerical value and subrange were explicitly stated. For example, a percentage range of approximately 0.0.5% to 5% should be interpreted to include not only the explicitly quoted limits of about 0.05% to about 5%, but also sub-ranges, such as 1% to 4%, 3% to 5%, and so on, as well as individual quantities, including fractional quantities, within the specified ranges, such as 2.84% and 3%, for example.
[0023] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person of ordinary competence in the art to which this disclosure pertains. Although all methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described in this document may be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, preferred methods and materials are hereby described.
[0024] This disclosure shall not be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for illustrative purposes only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and processes clearly fall within the scope of this disclosure, as described herein.
[0025] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, for the treatment of keratinous material. Disclosed embodiments include a composition, a method for treating keratinous material, and the use of the composition for treating acne on the skin, as well as the associated method for treating acne on the skin. In various embodiments herein, the composition as disclosed herein has improved cosmetic properties, addressing the drawbacks of existing acne control products. Generally, acne control products have a low pH, can be harsh, sticky, and are unsuitable for prolonged use due to the inappropriate use of exfoliating and smoothing agents. Furthermore, cosmetic products claiming a high level of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and polyhydroxy acids Low-pH (PHA) products can suffer from product instability and high irritation. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is transparent, stable at all temperatures, even at low pH, and rapidly absorbed by the skin. It is important to note that the composition provides instant sebum control with effective acne control and, with regular use, promotes better hydration, resulting in radiant, clear skin free of acne marks and blemishes. Furthermore, the composition exhibits positive sensory aspects, such as a non-sticky feel, a water-breaking effect, and a non-plumping sensation after use, with no reported irritation.
[0026] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of salicylic acid and free of silicone. Composition
[0027] The composition, according to the invention, is a cosmetic composition for treating acne on keratinous material, in particular skin. In addition, besides acne control, the composition, according to a present embodiment, offers enhanced skin benefits, such as instant and lasting sebum control, balanced hydration, an even skin tone, and a reduction in acne marks and shine. The composition comprises at least one polymer; two or more alpha hydroxy acids; at least one poly(hydroxy) acid; wherein the alpha hydroxy acid has 2 to 4 carbon atoms; and the two or more hydroxy acids and the poly(hydroxy) acid are in a weight ratio range of 3:2 to 1.5:0.5, preferably in a weight ratio range of 2.9:1.6 to 1.5:0.8, more preferably 2:1 to 1:0.8; and the composition has a pH in a range of 3 to 6, preferably 3.5 to 5.5.The composition may also include a polyol, an alcohol, a surfactant, and an anti-acne active ingredient. The composition may further include an additive selected from a UV filter, a moisturizer, an antioxidant, a conditioning agent, a humectant, a fragrance, a pH modifier, a carrier, a lubricant, or mixtures thereof. Polymer
[0028] The composition, according to the invention, includes at least one polymer. Preferably, the polymer is a polysaccharide.
[0029] Examples of polymers that may be used include, but are not limited to, hydroxyalkyl cellulose, inulins, celluloses, starches, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, alginate gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, gum arabic, xyloses, tragacanth gums, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin or mixtures thereof.
[0030] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gums include acacia, agar-agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, camitin, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropylchitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxyanthan gum, and bio-saccharide gum. Modified gums or gum derivatives may also be used, such as, for example, deacylated gellan gum, welan gum or hydroxypropyl guar gum, such as Jaguar HP 105 sold by Rhodia.
[0031] Non-limiting examples of celluloses include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methylhydroxyethylcellulose), or hydropropylcelluloses, which may or may not contain a fatty chain. A particularly suitable hydroxypropylmethylcellulose is Methocel F4M sold by Dow Chemicals (INCI name: hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose).Modified celluloses with groups comprising one or more nonionic fatty chains that may be used include hydroxyethylcelluloses, preferably nonionic hydroxyethylcelluloses, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or al-kylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22 alkyl groups, such as the product NATROSOL™ Plus Grade 330 CS (Cl6 alkyls), sold by Aqualon, corresponding to the INCI name cetyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose, or the product BERMOCOLL® EHM 100 sold by Berol Nobel, and those modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER® HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by Amerchol, which corresponds to the INCI name nonoxynyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose. .
[0032] Non-limiting examples of starches include modified starches, starch-based polymers, methylhydroxypropyl starch, potato starch, modified potato starch, wheat starch, rice starch, starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride, starch oxide, dialdehyde starch, dextrin, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch and hydroxypropyl starch.
[0033] Preferably, the polymer is selected from hydroxyalkylcellulose, inulins, celluloses, starches, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, alginate gums, agar-agar gums, car- raghenan, gellan gums, arabic gums, xyloses, tragacanth gums, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin or mixtures thereof.
[0034] More preferably, the polymer is chosen from a hydroxyalkylcellulose or a hydroxypropylguar gum and mixtures thereof, more preferably the polymer is chosen from a hydroxyalkylcellulose such as hydroxyethylcellulose.
[0035] The amount of polymer in the composition, according to the invention, can vary. The polymer, according to the invention, can be present in the composition in a weight range of 0.05 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alpha hydroxy acid
[0036] The composition, according to the invention, comprises at least two or more alpha hydroxy acids, in which the alpha hydroxy acid comprises 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0037] Preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid has the general formula (I):
[0038] in which
[0039] R is OH;
[0040] RI is chosen from an H, OH, alkyl in CH2-COOH or Ci-C2 which is optionally substituted;
[0041] R2 is H, COOH, CHOH-COOH, CF3, CH=CH2, NHCONH2, or alkyl CrC2 optionally substituted by a radical selected from OH, Cl, NH2, COOH, CF3, or SCH3; Or
[0042] RI and R2 can also together form an oxo radical (=0) or a cyclopropyl with the carbon atom to which they are attached, or alternatively a radical
[0043] Preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, oxalic acid, lactic acid, 1-hydroxy-l-cyclopropanecarboxylic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-butenoic acid, 2-hydroxyhydroxyisobutyric acid, 2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid, isosterine, glyceric acid, 4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid, dihydroxyfumaric acid, tartaric acid, glyoxylurea, 2-trifluoro-2-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, [3-chlorolactic acid, malic acid, and their stereoisomers, organic or mineral salts and solvated.
[0044] Preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid has the general formula (I) in which:
[0045] R is OH;
[0046] RI is H, OH, NH2, CH2-COOH or CrC2 alkyl such as methyl or ethyl and R2 is an H, COOH, CHOH-COOH, CH2OH, CH2NH2, CH2C1, NHCONH2 or CF3; or
[0047] RI and R2 can also together form an oxo radical (=0) or a cyclopropyl with the carbon atom to which they are attached, or alternatively the radical
[0048] Preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid has the general formula (I) in which:
[0049] R is OH,
[0050] RI is H, OH, NH2, CH2-COOH or CrC2 alkyl such as methyl or ethyl, and R2 is H.
[0051] More preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, L-lactic acid, DL-lactic acid, D-lactic acid, oxalic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, DL-glyceric acid, or mixtures thereof.
[0052] In one embodiment, the alpha hydroxy acid may be selected from the salt form of the acids. The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts include, but are not limited to, alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.
[0053] More preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, L-lactic acid, DL-lactic acid, D-lactic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0054] The quantity of two or more alpha hydroxy acids in the composition, according to the invention, may vary. The two or more alpha hydroxy acids may be present in the composition in a weight range of 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 8%, more preferably from 0.1 to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Poly(hydroxy) acid
[0055] The composition, according to the invention, includes at least one poly(hydroxy)acid.
[0056] The term "poly(hydroxy)acid" used herein refers to an organic compound that comprises at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxyl groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the poly(hydroxy)acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the poly(hydroxy) acid is also unlimited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the poly(hydroxy) acid is also unlimited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.
[0057] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the poly(hydroxy)acid may be chosen from aliphatic poly(hydroxy)acids or aromatic poly(hydroxy)acids. Preferably, the aliphatic poly(hydroxy)acid may be chosen from sugar acids.
[0058] Examples of poly(hydroxy)acids include, but are not limited to, dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0059] It is preferable for the poly(hydroxy) acid to be in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of the poly(hydroxy) acid in the lactone form can be saturated. Examples of poly(hydroxy) acids include gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.
[0060] It is preferable that the poly(hydroxy)acid be gluconolactone.
[0061] In one embodiment, the polyhydroxy acid may be selected from the salt form of the acids. The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts include, but are not limited to, alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferred. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.
[0062] The amount of poly(hydroxy)acid in the composition can vary. The poly(hydroxy)acid, according to the invention, can be present in the composition in a weight range of 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.2 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, most preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Anti-acne active ingredient
[0063] The composition, according to the invention, includes an anti-acne active ingredient.
[0064] The term “anti-acne active” used herein refers to any active agent that has effects on the Specific flora of oily skin, for example Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes). These effects can be bactericidal.
[0065] Examples of anti-acne actives include, but are not limited to, niacinamide, niacin and nicotinic acid esters; peroxides, including benzoyl peroxide, stabilized hydrogen peroxide and organic acid peroxides, such as lauroyl peroxide; a metal gluconate, such as zinc gluconate, copper gluconate or mixtures thereof;Asiatic acid, the monoethanolamine salt of l-hydroxy-4-methyl 6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone (INCI name: piroctone olamine), marketed notably under the brand name Octopiroxx® by Clariant, citronellic acid, perlic acid (or 4-isopropenylcyclohex-l-enecarboxylic acid), 2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin), for example marketed under the brand name Sensiva SC 50® by Schulke & Mayr, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid such as Acnacidol P® by Vincience, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, azelyl diglycinate, vitamin E, diiodomethyl p-tolyl sulfone such as Amical Flowable® by Angus, malachite powder, octadecenedioic acid such as Arlatone Uniqema's DCA® dioic acid; ellagic acid;3,4,4'-Trichlorocarbanilide, 3',4',5'-Trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopirox olamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, 3-Hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerin or octoglycerin, octanoylglycine such as SEPPIC's Lipacid C8G®, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl-limidazoldioxolane and its derivatives described in WO 93 / 18743, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phyto-phingosines;quaternary ammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium salts and cetylpyridinium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0066] Preferably, the anti-acne active ingredient is chosen from niacinamide and derivatives, niacin, nicotinic acid esters, a metal gluconate or mixtures thereof.
[0067] More preferably, the anti-acne active ingredient is niacinamide.
[0068] The amount of active anti-acne agent in the composition may vary. The anti-acne active agent may be present in the composition in a weight range of 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight. Surfactant
[0069] The composition, according to the invention, includes a surfactant.
[0070] The surfactant is chosen from a non-ionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant or mixtures thereof.
[0071] Preferably, the surfactant is a non-ionic surfactant selected from fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty esters, glycerol fatty esters, oxyalkylated glycerol fatty esters, oxyalkylated sorbitan fatty esters, alkylene oxide polycondensates or mixtures thereof, preferably the non-ionic surfactant is oxyalkylated sorbitan fatty esters.
[0072] Glycerol oxyalkylated fatty acid esters are esters of fatty acids (in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably of Ci6-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may include 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold in particular under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT S® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT O® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC LI13® sold by SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product LAGAT L® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT I® from GOLDSCHMIDT.
[0073] The oxyalkylated fatty esters of sorbitan are esters of fatty acids (in particular of C8-C24 acid and preferably of Ci6-C22 acid) and of oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (optionally containing 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 20 sold under the name Tween 20® by CRODA, polysorbate sold under the name Tween 60® by CRODA.
[0074] Alkylene oxide polycondensates are copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (also called OE / PO polycondensates), and more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, triblock polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol polycondensates, for example those having the following chemical structure: H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b (O CH2-CH2)a-OH, where 'a' ranges from 2 to 120, and 'b' ranges from 1 to 100. Examples of OE / PO polycondensates that may be used include the triblock polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol polycondensates sold under the trade names SYNPERONIC®, such as SYNPERONIC PE / L44® and SYNPERONIC PE / F127® by HERE.
[0075] Examples of alkylene oxide polycondensates include polyoxyethylene (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylene (1-30 PO) (Ci6-C3O) ethers, which can be selected in the group consisting of PPG-6 decyltetraceth-30 (polyoxyethylene (30) polyoxypropylene (6) tetradecyl ether), PPG-6 decyltetraceth-12 (polyoxyethylene (12) polyoxypropylene (6) tetradecyl ether), PPG-13 decyltetraceth-24 (polyoxyethylene (24) polyoxypropylene (13) decyltetradecyl ether), PPG-6 decyltetraceth-20 (polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (6) decyltetradecyl ether), PPG-4 ceteth-1 (polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether), PPG-8 ceteth-1 (polyoxyethylene (1) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether), PPG-4 ceteth-10 (polyoxyethylene (10) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether), PPG-4 ceteth-20(polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (4) cetyl ether), PPG-5 ceteth-20(polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (5) cetyl ether), PPG-8 ceteth-20(polyoxyethylene (20) polyoxypropylene (8) cetyl ether), and PPG-23 steareth-34(polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene stearyl ether (34 EO) (23 PO).A preferred type of nonionic surfactant includes alkoxylated alcohols such as a polyethylene derivative of hydrogenated castor oil, for example, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, commercially available from Cognis (BASF) under the trade names Eumulgin® HRE 40 or Cremophor® CO 40; and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.
[0076] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from oxyalkylated fatty esters of sorbitan comprising a C8-C24 fatty acid with 1 to 150 oxyalkylated sorbitan or mixtures thereof and is polysorbate 20.
[0077] The amount of surfactant in the composition may vary. The surfactant may be present in the composition in a weight range of 0.1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight. Polyol
[0078] The composition, according to the invention, includes a polyol.
[0079] The term "polyol" as used herein refers to an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. A saccharide derivative includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.
[0080] The polyols used in the present invention are liquid at room temperature, for example 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).
[0081] The polyol may be a C2 24 polyol, preferably a C2 9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
[0082] The polyol can be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
[0083] The polyol can be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C6-C24 polyethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, and 1,5-pentanediol.
[0084] Preferably, the polyol is chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, or mixtures thereof, more preferably the polyol is chosen from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or mixtures thereof.
[0085] The amount of polyol in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The polyol, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 10% by weight. Alcohol
[0086] The composition, according to the invention, includes an alcohol.
[0087] Alcohol is a monoalcohol which is in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25 °C), such as a linear or branched monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0088] Preferably, the alcohol is chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol, hexanol or mixtures thereof.
[0089] More preferably, the alcohol is ethanol.
[0090] The amount of alcohol in the composition may vary. Alcohol may be present in the composition in a weight range of 3 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 6 to 15% by weight. Water
[0091] The composition, according to the invention, includes water in a weight range of 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50 to 70% by weight, more preferably 50 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other additives
[0092] The composition may also include one or more additives, in particular cosmetic additives, which may be selected from, among other things, a UV filter, a moisturizer, an antioxidant, a conditioning agent, a humectant, a fragrance, a pH modifier, a carrier, a lubricant, a preservative, a neutralizer such as sodium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof. It is understood that a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition. All these embodiments, including the optional additives, are understood to be included within the scope of this disclosure. Processes and use
[0093] Another object of the invention relates to a process for treating a keratinous material, comprising the step of applying the composition of the present disclosure to the keratinous material.
[0094] Preferably, the present disclosure relates to a method for treating acne on the skin, including the step of applying the composition of the present disclosure to the skin.
[0095] Another object of the invention also relates to the use of the composition of the present disclosure to treat acne on the skin.
[0096] Although the present disclosure has been described in much greater detail with reference to certain embodiments and their implementations, other embodiments are possible to cover modifications and variations to the present disclosure. EXAMPLES
[0097] The disclosure will henceforth be illustrated by practical examples, which are intended to demonstrate the operation of the disclosure and are not intended to impose restrictive limitations on the scope of this disclosure. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person of ordinary competence in the art to which this disclosure pertains. Although methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice of the disclosed methods and compositions, the methods, devices, and materials given by way of example are described herein. It should be understood that this disclosure is not limited to the particular methods and experimental conditions described, such as those methods and conditions may apply.
[0098] In the following examples, unless otherwise indicated, percentages are given as a percentage of the total weight of the composition (% w / w - MA: Active Ingredient). Example 1
[0099] Comparison between compositions according to this disclosure and comparative compositions
[0100] The compositions listed in Table 1, including Cl*, a composition prepared according to the process described below, and C2 and C3, the comparative compositions, are prepared in a manner similar to the process described below using the components listed in Table 1 below.
[0101] The process includes: mixing at least one polymer, at least one polyol, at least one poly(hydroxy)acid with two or more alpha hydroxyacids in water with a deflocculator blade at approximately 500-600 rpm to obtain a first solution; adding at least one surfactant, at least one anti-acne active, and at least one alcohol and optionally additives to the first solution with a deflocculator blade at approximately 500-600 rpm to obtain the composition.
[0102] [Tables 1] Ingredient INCI (% w / w) Cl* C2 C3 Water Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Alpha hydroxy acid Lactic acid 2 (1.8% MA) - 3 (2.7% MA) Alpha hydroxy acid Glycolic acid 1.5 (1.05% MA) 1.5 (1.05% MA) 2 (1.4% MA) Additive Terephthalyllidene dicamphor Sulfonic acid 0.5 (0.165% MA) 0.5 (0.165% MA) 0.5 (0.165% MA) Additive Allantoin 0.3 0.3 0.3 Poly(hydroxy)acne Gluconolactone 1.5 1.5 2 Anti-acne active Niacinamide 6 6 6 Alcohol Alcohol (Ethanol) 12 12 12 Polyol Propylene glycol 6 6 6 Polymer Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.3 0.3 0.3 Additive PEG / PPG / Polybutylene Glycol-8 / 5 / 3 Glycerin 0.25 0.25 0.25 Surfactant Polysorbate 20 1 1 1 Additive Moisturizing agent 0.25 0.25 0.25 Additive Sodium hydroxide 0.3 0.3 0.3 Evaluation Sensory Analysis Non-sticky Acceptable stickiness Very sticky Mean Stickiness (n = 15) ± standard deviation 1.60 + 0.71 3.03 ± 0.53 3.93 ± 0.25 Mean Softness / Slipiness (n=15) ± Standard deviation 4.33 ± 0.47 2.60 ± 0.49 2.46 ± 0.50 Mean Irritability (n=15) No irritation reported Yes, 27% Yes, 60% Stability Stable Unstable Unstable Stability is measured as follows:
[0103] The short-term stability of the compositions was evaluated by centrifugation. The composition was placed in a glass tube, which was in turn placed in a dish and subjected to a relative centrifugal force of 900 g for 1 hour at 25 °C, and any change in texture and color of the composition was observed. Transparency is measured as follows:
[0104] The transparency of the compositions was evaluated by visually observing the transparency of the formula on a black background. Sensory analysis
[0105] A sensory analysis was carried out by 15 experts to evaluate aspects such as the stickiness and slipperiness of the compositions. Stickiness measurement protocol:
[0106] Using an Eppendorf micropipette equipped with a 0.5 mL Combitip®, 50.0 qL of the composition to be evaluated was placed on a SKIN FX (Ref.: SHEET MEDIUM BACK K6 TABBETTE from AXON CABLE SAS). The composition was spread on the skin in 15 passes or for 15 seconds, and then the tights were assessed using the index and middle fingers. After waiting 15 seconds, repeating the application of 15 passes, or 15 seconds, the tights were reassessed. The fingers were rinsed with a cloth moistened with warm water. After a waiting time of 120 seconds, the stickiness was assessed again. The fingers were rinsed between each application with a cloth moistened with warm water. The result was calculated as a consensus mean of 15 individual results, rounded up to the nearest half unit. Slipperiness was assessed using a scale from 1 to 5 with: - RATING <3: Not sticky at all - RATING =3: Average perception - RATING >3: Sticky - NOT ACCEPTABLE
[0107] A composition was said to be sticky if, in the described protocol, it had an overall slip rating greater than or equal to 3.0. Smoothness / Slipperiness Measurement Protocol
[0108] Using an Eppendorf micropipette equipped with 0.5 mL combitips, a quantity of 50.0 qL of the composition to be evaluated was placed on a SKIN FX (ref.: SHEET MEDIUM BACK K6 LANGUETTE of AXON CABLE SAS).
[0109] The assessment of the quantity of residue on the fingers was carried out using a scale from 1 to 5 with: - RATING <3: No smoothness - RATING = 3: Moderate slipperiness / acceptable smoothness - RATING >3: Slippery / smooth
[0110] A composition is said to give a smooth / glide sensation if, in the described protocol, it has an overall smoothness rating greater than or equal to 3.0. Irritation measurement protocol:
[0111] Approximately 15 respondents were selected to assess the irritation caused by the composition. After applying and allowing complete absorption of the composition on their face, respondents were allowed to wait 10 minutes. They were then asked to report any sensations of tingling, itching, irritation, or mild burning, and these observations were recorded. Results
[0112] As illustrated in Table 1, the composition Cl* according to the present invention was stable with acceptable stickiness and slipperiness and also without reported irritation.
[0113] The comparative compositions C2 and C3 were unstable, affecting the transparency of the composition at a temperature 4°C below after 1 month. Composition C2, without any lactic acid, was found to have acceptable stickiness but lacked desirable slipperiness and was also found to be slightly irritating to the skin. Composition C3, comprising an AHA:PHA ratio of 5:2 (active ingredient (AI) ratio of 4.1:2), which exceeded the desired ratio, was found to be very sticky, lacked desirable slipperiness, and was also observed to be irritating by 60% of users, thus being an undesirable composition.
[0114] Consequently, it has been observed that the use of specific ingredients within the disclosed weight ranges as disclosed in various embodiments herein facilitated the obtaining of the cosmetic composition with the sensory properties and the desired stability.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising: a. at least one polymer; b. two or more alpha hydroxy acids; and c. at least one poly(hydroxy)acid, wherein the alpha hydroxy acids have 2 to 4 carbon atoms and are selected from glycolic acid, L-lactic acid, DL-lactic acid, D-lactic acid, oxalic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, DL-glyceric acid, 1-hydroxy-l-cyclopropanecarboxylic acid, 2-hydroxyisobutyric acid, 2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid, isosterine, 4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid, dihydroxyfumaric acid, 3-chlorolactic acid, tartronic acid, glyoxylurea, 2-trifluoro-2-hydroxypropionic acid or mixtures thereof; and the two or more alpha hydroxy acids and the poly(hydroxy) acid are in a weight ratio range of 2:1 to 1:0.
8.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the two or more alpha hydroxy acids and the poly(hydroxy) acid are in a weight ratio range of 2.9:1.6 to 1.5:0.
8.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer is a polysaccharide, preferably the polymer is selected from a hydroxy alkyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl guar gum, more preferably the polymer is a hydroxy alkyl cellulose such as hydroxy ethyl cellulose.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid has the general formula (I): OH RI----■---< % R2 ü in which - R is OH; - RI is selected from an H, OH, alkyl group in CH2-COOH or C1-C2 which is optionally substituted; R2 is selected from H, COOH, CHOH-COOH, CF3, CH=CH2, NHC0NH2, or a C1-C2 alkyl optionally substituted by a radical chosen from OH, Cl, NH2, COOH, CF3, or SCH3; or -RI and R2 can also together form an oxo radical (=0) or a cyclopropyl ring with the carbon atom to which they are attached, or alternatively the °H OH radical
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alpha hydroxy acids are selected from glycolic acid, L-lactic acid, DL-lactic acid, D-lactic acid, or mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the poly(hydroxy) acid is a lactone, preferably gluconolactone.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one surfactant selected from a non-ionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant or mixtures thereof, preferably the surfactant is a non-ionic surfactant.
8. Composition according to claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is free of salicylic acid and is free of silicone.