COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising: (a) at least one fatty acid; and (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, wherein the amount of (a) fatty acid(s) is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for keratinous fibers, preferably hair. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] In the field of cosmetic hair treatments, rinse-off type hair cosmetics are an important sector in the hair care category, and consumers use these hair cosmetics to give hair a smooth and similar texture.

[0003] For example, WO 2017 / 132308 discloses a hair care composition comprising from about 0.01% to about 20% of a lipid which is one or more unsaturated fats selected from unsaturated fatty acids, unsaturated fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0004] However, this prior art is not intended for coloring hair, particularly for protecting the color of colored hair. There is still a need for a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibers, especially hair, that can impart improved color-protecting properties to colored keratin fibers, particularly colored hair. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0005] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, which can protect or maintain a color of colored keratinous fibers.

[0006] The above objective can be achieved by a composition for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising:

[0007] (a) at least one fatty acid; and

[0008] (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a diacid saturated

[0009] in which

[0010] the quantity of the (a) fatty acid(s) in the composition is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The fatty acid can be chosen from linear saturated fatty acids and linear unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0012] The fatty acid can be chosen from fatty acids having from 6 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0013] The fatty acid can be chosen from arachidic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0014] The quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition can range from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably from 4% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride in (b) oligomer can be represented by the following formula (A) | p R2 p | CHOH CHOH CHOH | laughed laughed ÿ Ç Ç CH,----------- CH -- CH (HAS)

[0016] in which

[0017] Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group comprising, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and

[0018] R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0019] The saturated diacid in (b) oligomer can be represented by the following formula (B) pl 1 s (W

[0020] in which

[0021] Xi is a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably a linear alkylene group -(CH2)X- where x is an integer from 1 to 30, and preferably from 3 to 15.

[0022] The (b) oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid can be a hydrogenated castor oil / sebatic acid copolymer.

[0023] The quantity of the oligomer(s) of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid in the composition may range from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably typically from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.15% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one oil. The oil may be selected from triglycerides.

[0025] The composition may be of the rinse-off type.

[0026] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous fibers.

[0027] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

[0028] (i) application to keratinous fibers of a first composition comprising either of (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, and

[0029] (ii) application to keratinous fibers of a second composition comprising the other of (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, which is not included in the first composition,

[0030] wherein the quantity of the (a) fatty acid(s) in the first or second composition is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Best embodiment of the invention

[0031] After careful research, the inventors discovered that a combination of the ingredients of the present invention provides a composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, which can exhibit an improved color protection property for colored keratinous fibers.

[0032] Thus, the present invention relates mainly to a composition for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising:

[0033] (a) at least one fatty acid; and

[0034] (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a diacid saturated,

[0035] in which

[0036] the quantity of the (a) fatty acid(s) in the composition is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The composition according to the present invention can be used for colored keratinous fibers, in particular for the protection and / or maintenance of the color of colored keratinous fibers, conferring an improved color protection and / or maintenance effect.

[0038] The "keratinous fibers" herein include hair, eyebrows, eyelashes, and the like. It is preferable that the present invention be used for hair.

[0039] The expression "protection of a color of colored keratinous fibers" or "Color maintenance of colored keratin fibers" refers to an effect that protects or maintains a color of keratin fibers that has already been imparted to the fibers by dyeing them. Thus, the expression "color protection of colored keratin fibers" or "color maintenance of colored keratin fibers" also refers to an effect that prevents the degradation or fading of a colored keratin fiber. Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can impart improved color durability to the keratin fibers.

[0040] The keratinous fibers to be treated with the composition according to the present invention may have been colored by dyeing the keratinous fibers. The process of dyeing keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but typically the keratinous fibers have been colored with oxidative dye precursors using oxidative dyes.

[0041] The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic composition. In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be intended to be applied to keratinous fibers such as hair. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers.

[0042] The composition according to the present invention may be in any form such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an O / W or W / W emulsion, thickened or not, a paste, a foam, or a cream.

[0043] In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is a rinse-off cosmetic composition. A rinse-off composition is intended to be rinsed off after being used on keratinous fibers.

[0044] The present invention will be described in detail below.

[0045] [Composition]

[0046] One aspect of the present invention relates to a composition for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising:

[0047] (a) at least one fatty acid; and

[0048] (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a diacid saturated.

[0049] Each of the ingredients will be explained in detail below.

[0050] [Fatty Acid]

[0051] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid. Two or more fatty acids may be used in combination. Thus, only one type of acid fat or a combination of different types of fatty acids may be used.

[0052] The term "fatty acid" here refers to a monofunctional carboxylic acid with an aliphatic chain.

[0053] The fatty acid can be linear or branched. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is linear.

[0054] The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from saturated fatty acids. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0055] Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include fatty acids having from 6 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0056] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is chosen from linear saturated fatty acids and linear unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0057] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid is selected from linear fatty acids having from 6 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the fatty acids are saturated or unsaturated with 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0058] The fatty acid can be represented by the following formula (I): RCOOH (I) in which: R is a linear or branched C6-C28 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C8-C24 alkyl or alkenyl group, more preferably a Ci0-C20 alkyl or alkenyl group, and in particular a Ci2-Ci8 alkyl or alkenyl group. R may comprise 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0059] By way of non-limiting examples of fatty acids, arachidic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0060] Preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] The quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition may be 3% by weight or less, more preferably 4% by weight or more, and even more preferably-

[0062] The quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 12% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] The composition according to the present invention may contain the fatty acid(s) in an amount of 3% to 20% by weight, preferably 4% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] In the context of this Memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity.

[0065] (Oligomer of hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and saturated diacid)

[0066] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid. Two or more oligomers of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid or a combination of different types of oligomers of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid may be used.

[0067] The term "oligomer" here refers to a polymer in which a relatively small number of monomers are linked. Preferably, the number of monomers in the oligomer should be 100 or less, more preferably 50 or less, and even more preferably 20 or less.

[0068] (b) The oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid can be obtained by the reaction of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride (such as hydrogenated castor oil) and a saturated diacid. The reaction can be an esterification. Thus, (b) the oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid can be an oligoester of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid.

[0069] According to the present invention, a diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain from which it is formed has no unsaturated group, namely: a carbon-carbon double bond. The term "diacid" here refers to a hydrocarbon compound comprising two carboxyl groups (-COOH). The diacid may be a single diacid or a mixture of several different diacids.

[0070] In one embodiment of the present invention, the diacid comprises two carboxyl -COOH functions at the end of the chain.

[0071] Similarly, in the context of the present invention, the oligomer can be a mixture of several different oligomers.

[0072] Among the saturated diacids that can be used, sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid.

[0073] More specifically, the oligomer can be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following triglyceride formulas (A) and diacid formulas (B): | B2 R2 | CHOH ÇHOH ÇHOH | RI RI RI C—-OC —Ô C Q Ç Ç Cl ---------- CH --- (HAS) 1 s (B)

[0074] in which

[0075] Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group comprising, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2)r, where "1" can range from 1 to 20 and in particular from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12,

[0076] R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably represents the group -(CH2)m -CH3, where "m" can range from 0 to 11 and in particular from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9,

[0077] and

[0078] in which

[0079] Xi represents a linear or branched alkylene group, preferably represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)X- where "x" is an integer from 1 to 30, and preferably from 3 to 15.

[0080] According to one embodiment, 1=10 and m=5, and the group OH --RI --C---R2 H

[0081] in formula (A) above represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid (the main component of hydrogenated castor oil).

[0082] When the diacid is sebacic acid, Xi represents the linear alkylene group -(CH2)X- where "x" is equal to 8.

[0083] The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer can vary between 3 and 12, more preferably between 4 and 10.

[0084] Thus, the (b) oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a diacid saturated can be represented by the following formula (C):

[0085] in which

[0086] each of Rb R2, and Xi has the meaning explained above, and

[0087] n denotes an average degree of polymerization between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

[0088] It is preferable that the following group 0(H)

[0089] in formula (C) above represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid, and Xi represents -(CH2)8-.

[0090] It is more preferable that the (a) oligomer of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid be an oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, i.e. a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid.

[0091] The hydrogenated castor oil / sebatic acid copolymer is notably sold by the company CRODA under various names depending on the degree of polymerization.

[0092] Among hydrogenated castor oil / sebatic acid copolymers, one with a degree of polymerization of approximately 4.6 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-5" and one with a degree of polymerization of approximately 9.5 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-10", sold by Croda Japan KK

[0093] We can also mention the oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid sold under the name CRODABOND CSA (molecular weight=3500) by the company CRODA.

[0094] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.15% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] (Oil)

[0098] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0099] Here, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0100] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or similar; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil, an ester oil, an ether oil or a fatty alcohol; or a mixture of these.

[0101] The oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0102] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

[0104] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, in particular ar- triglycerides tificiels, and ether oils.

[0105] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic monoacids or polyacids in Ci-C26 and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols in Ci-C26, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0106] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid, from which the esters of the present invention are derived, is branched.

[0107] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0108] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar alcohols dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy in C4-C26 may also be used.

[0109] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0110] Sugar esters and C6-C30 fatty acid diesters, and preferably C2-C22 esters, may be used as ester oils. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0111] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0112] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of fatty acids in C6-C30 and preferably in C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0113] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0115] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0116] One can cite for example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0117] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Triglyceride is an ester derived from glycerol and three fatty acids, and may be called triacylglycerol.

[0119] The triglyceride comprises at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid residue. Preferably, the triglycerides should have at least one saturated fatty acid residue. In other words, it is preferable that the triglyceride be an ester derived from glycerol and at least one saturated fatty acid. If two or more saturated or unsaturated fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different. Therefore, in one specific embodiment, the triglyceride comprises two different saturated fatty acid residues.

[0120] The fatty acid fraction in the triglyceride may have 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0121] Triglycerides may be artificial triglycerides. Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl / caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0122] For detailed explanations on silicone oils, including examples of silicone oils, see the section (Silicone Oil) below.

[0123] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0124] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, possibly cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0125] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.

[0126] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may be cited, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0127] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0128] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0129] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from C6-C30 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, more preferably from C6-C30 saturated, linear or branched alcohols, and more preferably from Ci2-C20 saturated, linear or branched alcohols.

[0131] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used preferentially. Any alcohol Saturated, linear, or branched Cl6-C2O fatty acids may be used more preferentially. Branched Cl6-C2O fatty alcohols may be used even more preferentially.

[0132] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0133] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0134] It is preferable that the oil be chosen from among oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0135] Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol, selected from ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (in Ci-Ci2) (for example, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate), artificial triglycerides, such as capryl / caprylyl triglyceride, hydrocarbon oils (for example, isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol-type oils (in Ci2-C3o) such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol and ether oils such as dicapryl ether.

[0136] The oil in the composition according to the present invention may be silicone oil. Only one type of silicone oil may be used, but two or more different types of silicone oils may be used in combination.

[0137] Here, "silicone oil" means a silicone compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Silicone oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

[0138] Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter Noll in "Chemical and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0139] Thus, the silicone oil or oils can be chosen from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.

[0140] Thus, silicone oil may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

[0141] Volatile or non-volatile silicone may be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one fraction or a organofunctional group.

[0142] For example, silicone oil may be selected from the group consisting of poly-dialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes, and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one organofunctional fraction or group selected from poly(oxyalkylene) fractions or groups, amine or amide fractions or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl fractions or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxylated fractions or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl fractions or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate fractions or groups, hydroxyacylamino fractions or groups, acrylic fractions or groups, polyamine or polyamide fractions or groups, and oxazoline fractions.

[0143] If the silicone oil(s) is / are volatile, the silicone oil(s) may be chosen from those having a boiling point ranging from 60 °C to 260 °C, for example:

[0144] (i) cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, by for example, 4 to 6 silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of these siloxanes include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, KF-995 by SHIN ETSU, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (INCI: CYCLOHEXASILOXANE) marketed, for example, under the trade name XIAMETER® PMX-246 and the trade name DC246 Fluid by Dow Corning, as well as mixtures thereof. Cyclomethicones that can also be used include those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345, and DC 246 by Dow Corning. Dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane cyclocopolymers can also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by Union Carbide, with the formula

[0145] in which:

[0146] Combinations of cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds may also be used, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50), and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane; and

[0147] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed, for example, under the trade name "SH-200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27-32—TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".

[0148] If the silicone oil or oils are volatile, the silicone oil or oils may be chosen from among the cyclic silicones.

[0149] Furthermore, the silicone oil or oils may be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, organomodified polydiarylsiloxanes and polysiloxanes as explained above.

[0150] According to one embodiment, the silicone oil or oils can be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups known by the trade name dimethicones.

[0151] Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to these polydialkylsiloxanes include:

[0152] SILBIONE® fluids of the 47 and 70 047 ranges and MIRASIL® fluids marketed by RHODIA, for example fluid 70 047 V 500 000;

[0153] the fluids of the MIRASIL® range marketed by RHODIA;

[0154] fluids from the 200 series marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, viscosity 60,000 mnf / s;

[0155] XIAMETER® PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 60000CS marketed by Dow Corning;

[0156] VISCASIL® fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain fluids from the range SF (for example, SF 96 and SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC; and

[0157] the fluid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by DOW CORNING.

[0158] Products marketed under the trade names "ABIL Wax® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT belonging to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes, may also be used.

[0159] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes can be selected from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenyl siloxanes.

[0160] Non-limiting examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following trade names:

[0161] RHODIA's SILBIONE® fluids from the 70 641 range; RHODIA's RHODORSIL® fluids from the 70 633 and 763 ranges;

[0162] the phenyltrimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;

[0163] silicones from the PK range of BAYER, for example product PK20;

[0164] silicones from the PN, PH ranges of BAYER, for example the PN1000 products and PH1000; and

[0165] certain oils from the SF range of General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0166] Organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those defined above and comprising at least one organofunctional fraction or group linked directly or by means of a hydrocarbon group within their structure.

[0167] Organomodified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

[0168] polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy fractions optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl fractions, such as products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and the fluids SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, as well as dimethicone PEG12 marketed under the trade name XIAMETER® OFX-0193 FLUID by DOW CORNING, and (Ci2)alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200;

[0169] Optionally substituted amine fractions, for example, the products marketed under the trade names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and the products marketed under the trade names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING. Substituted amine fractions may be selected, for example, from C1-C4 amino alkyl fractions. Aminosilicones or amodimethicones may have alkoxy functional groups in C1-C4. additional, such as those corresponding to the product WACKER BELSIL ADM LOG 1. Aminosilicones or amodimethicones may have at least one, preferably two, additional alkyl groups such as alkyl groups in Ci2-C2o, preferably in Ci4-Ci8, and more preferably in Ci6-Ci8, preferably at the terminal end(s) of their molecular chain, such as bis-cetearylamodimethicone, marketed under the trade name "Silsoft Ax" by Momentive Performance Materials;

[0170] alkoxylated fractions, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt;

[0171] hydroxylated fractions, such as polyorganosiloxanes containing hydroxyalkyl functions described, for example, in French patent application No. FR-A-85 163 34;

[0172] acyloxyalkyl fractions, for example the polyorganosiloxanes described in US patent No. 4,957,732;

[0173] anionic fractions of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and anionic fractions of alkyl carboxylic acid, such as those present in product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255";

[0174] hydroxyacylamino fractions, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European Patent Application No. 0 342 834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is product Q2-8413 marketed by DOW CORNING;

[0175] acrylic fractions, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M;

[0176] polyamine fractions, and

[0177] oxazoline fractions — { H ...

[0178] The silicones that can be used according to the present invention may comprise 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-β-dimethyl siloxane-β-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). The products Products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 can also be used.

[0179] Polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dhne-thiconol (CTFA), such as the fluids in the 48 range marketed by RHODIA.

[0180] If the silicone oil(s) are volatile, the silicone oil(s) may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes and organomodified polydimethylsiloxanes. The organomodified polydimethylsiloxane may be selected from dimethicone copolyols. The viscosity of the polydimethylsiloxane or the organomodified polydimethylsiloxane may be from 1,000,000 est to 20,000,000 est.

[0181] It may be preferable that the silicone oil be chosen from among volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups which are pendant and / or at the end(s) of the silicone chain, which groups have from 1 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;and organomodified silicones such as dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol (e.g., PEG12 dimethicone and PEG14 dimethicone), and amodimethicone (e.g., bis-cetearylamodimethicone).

[0182] It is possible to use a combination of at least one volatile silicone and at least one non-volatile silicone as a silicone oil. Non-limiting examples of such combinations include a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for example, under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0183] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oil is selected from synthetic oils chosen from alkane oils, ester oils, in particular triglycerides, such as artificial triglycerides, ether oils and their combinations, and more preferably selected from ester oils, and in particular artificial triglycerides, such as caprylyl / capryl triglyceride.

[0184] The quantity of the oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention is not limited. For example, in certain embodiments of the present invention, the quantity of the oil or oils may be 3% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, more preferably 10% by weight or more, even more preferably 20% by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or plus, and in particular 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] The quantity of the oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 95% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0186] The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 3% to 99% by weight, preferably from 5% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Any combination of the above upper and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity.

[0187] (Hydrophilic organic solvent)

[0188] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent.

[0189] The term "hydrophilic" here refers to substances having a solubility of at least 1 g / L, preferably at least 10 g / L, and more preferably at least 100 g / L, in water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). Therefore, the cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent is included in the aqueous phase, if applicable.

[0190] The cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) may include, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, sorbitol, monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol ethers, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, such as monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6 and PEG-8, PEG-10, and PEG-20, and their derivatives, and a combination thereof.

[0191] The amount of cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, the amount of cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) may be from 1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0192] (Other optional additives)

[0193] The composition according to the present invention may also include any other optional additive(s) commonly used in the field of cosmetics, chosen for example from water, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic polymers, gums, resins, hydrophilic thickening agents, hydrophobic thickening agents, dispersants, antioxidants, film-forming agents, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, emollients, and mixtures thereof.

[0194] It is part of the ordinary operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the above optional additives which may be present in the composition according to the present invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties are not affected by them.

[0195] The composition according to the present invention may or may not include water. In one specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may optionally include water in an amount of 1% by weight or less, 0.1% by weight or less, or 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment, the composition is free of water.

[0196] When the composition includes water, the amount of water is not particularly limited, but in general, is from 0.1 to 90%.

[0197] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if applicable, as explained above.

[0198] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0199] [Cosmetic process]

[0200] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous fibers.

[0201] The cosmetic process of the present invention may be a cosmetic process for the treatment, revitalization and / or care of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

[0202] The keratinous fibers to which the composition according to the present invention has been applied can be left for an appropriate time as required to treat the keratinous fibers. The duration of each treatment is not limited, but it can be from 5 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 30 seconds to 40 minutes.

[0203] Keratinous fibers can be processed at room temperature. Alternatively, keratinous fibers can be heated between 15°C and 45°C, preferably 20°C and 40°C, more preferably 25°C and 35°C, and even more preferably 27°C and 35°C, before and / or during and / or after the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous fibers.

[0204] The composition according to the present invention can be rinsed after treatment of the keratin fibers with the composition. Therefore, in one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention may include an additional step of rinsing the composition from the keratin fibers.

[0205] The process according to the present invention can be used for colored keratin fibers, in particular for the protection or maintenance of a color of colored keratin fibers, during the treatment, revitalization, cleaning and / or care of keratin fibers.

[0206] Thus, as an embodiment (I) of the cosmetic process, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

[0207] (i) application of the composition according to the present invention on keratin fibers tiny,

[0208] (ii) optional maintenance of the composition on the keratinous fibers for a certain time, and

[0209] (iii) optional rinsing of the keratinous fiber composition.

[0210] As another embodiment (II) of the cosmetic process, the active ingredients of (a) at least one fatty acid and (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid can be applied separately to the keratin fibers.

[0211] In embodiment (II), (a) at least one fatty acid may be applied first to the keratinous fibers, then (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid may be applied to the keratinous fibers, or (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid may be applied first to the keratinous fibers, then (a) at least one fatty acid may be applied to the keratinous fibers.

[0212] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for keratin fibers, more preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

[0213] (i) application to keratinous fibers of a first composition comprising either of (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, and

[0214] (ii) application to keratinous fibers of a second composition comprising the other of (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, which is not included in the first composition,

[0215] wherein the quantity of the (a) fatty acid(s) in the first or second composition is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the first or second composition.

[0216] The embodiment (II) of the cosmetic process according to the present invention may include the following aspects.

[0217] An aspect is a cosmetic process in which (a) fatty acid is first applied to keratinous fibers. Thus, this aspect relates to a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

[0218] (i) application to keratinous fibers of a first composition comprising (a) at least one fatty acid, then,

[0219] (ii) application to keratinous fibers of a second composition comprising (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid,

[0220] wherein the amount of the (a) fatty acid(s) in the first composition is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0221] Another aspect is a cosmetic process in which the (b) oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid is first applied to keratin fibers. Thus, this aspect relates to a cosmetic process for keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

[0222] (i) application to keratinous fibers of a first composition comprising (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, then

[0223] (ii) application to keratinous fibers of a second composition comprising (a) at least one fatty acid

[0224] wherein the quantity of the (a) fatty acid(s) is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the second composition.

[0225] The quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the first or second composition is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the first or second composition may be 4% by weight or more, more preferably 6% by weight or more, and even more preferably 8% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0226] The quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the first or second composition may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] The quantity of the fatty acid(s) in the first or second composition may be from 2% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, more preferably typically from 6% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the first or second composition in an amount of 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the first or second composition in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0230] The oligomer(s) of a triglyceride of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated diacid may be present in the first or second composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] The second composition is applied to the keratin fibers after the first composition has been applied. The keratin fibers to which the first composition has been applied may be left for an appropriate time, as required to treat the keratin fibers. The duration of treatment with the first composition between its application and the application of the second composition is not particularly limited, but it may be from 1 to 30 minutes, preferably from 2 to 25 minutes, and more preferably from 5 to 20 minutes.

[0232] In one embodiment of the present invention, there is no rinsing step of the first composition between steps (i) and (ii) in embodiment (II) of the cosmetic process of the present invention.

[0233] The same optional steps as in process embodiment (I) can be incorporated in process embodiment (II). For example, the keratin fibers to which the first or second composition has been applied can be left for an appropriate time required to treat the keratin fibers. The duration of the treatment is not limited, but it can be from 5 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 10 seconds to 10 minutes, and more preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes.

[0234] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

[0235] (i) application to keratinous fibers of a first composition comprising either of (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a tri- glyceride of hydroxylated fatty acid and a saturated diacid, and

[0236] (ii) application to keratinous fibers of a second composition comprising the other of (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, which is not included in the first composition,

[0237] wherein the amount of (a) fatty acid(s) in the first or second composition is at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0238] (ii) optional maintenance of the composition on the keratinized fibers for a certain time, and

[0239] (ii) optional rinsing of the keratinous fiber composition.

[0240] The same explanations given for the composition, (a) at least one fatty acid, and (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, can be applied to those for the process according to the present invention, unless otherwise indicated. The composition used in the process according to the present invention may include any of the optional ingredients explained above for the composition according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0241] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Example 1

[0242] [Preparation]

[0243] Each of the hair compositions according to Examples 1 to 8 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 8) and Comparative Example 1 (Ex. Comp. 1) was prepared by mixing the ingredients at room temperature until homogeneous. The formulations of each composition are shown in Tables 3 and 4. The hydrogenated castor oil / sebatic acid copolymer was obtained from Croda, sold under the name Crodabond CSA. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0244] [Evaluation]

[0245] A strand of 100% Chinese white hair (1 g, 10 cm) was placed on a heating plate at 30 °C. A reducing agent (PREMIA WAVE, L'Oréal Professionnel) was applied to the strand (2 g / g of hair), and then it was covered with vinyl film. After leaving the strand on the heating plate for 15 minutes, the vinyl film was removed, and the strand was then rinsed with tap water (37 °C) and towel-dried. An oxidizing agent (PREMIA WAVE, L'Oréal Professionnel) was applied to the strand (2 g / g of hair), and then it was covered of a vinyl film. After leaving the strand on the heating plate for 10 minutes, the vinyl film was removed and the strand was then rinsed with tap water (37°C), then towel-dried and blow-dried to obtain a permed strand of hair.

[0246] The permed strand of hair was placed on a heated plate at 27°C. A mixture of colorant (Majifashion Pastel Blue 8.11 tone 8, L'Oréal Professionnel) and oxidizing agent (Oxidant Crème 6% 20vol., L'Oréal Professionnel) in a weight ratio of 1:1.5 was applied to the strand (3 g of mixture / g of hair) and rinsed with tap water (37°C) after being left on for 35 minutes. The hair was then washed with ordinary shampoo, towel-dried, and blow-dried to obtain colored and permed strands. The formulation of the ordinary shampoo used in the coloring procedure is shown in Table 1 below. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0247] [Tables 1] Ingredients Ordinary Shampoo for Colored Hair: Coco-Betaine 9, Sodium Laureth Sulfate 15, Polyquaternium-10 0.3, Sodium Benzoate 0.5, Salicylic Acid 0.2, Citric Acid Qs pH 5.3, Sodium Hydroxide Qs pH 5.3, Water Qs 100

[0248] The resulting colored and permed hair strand (1 g, 10 cm) was placed on a heating plate at 27 °C. Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Example 1 was applied to the strands at a rate of 1 g / g of hair, and then covered with vinyl film. After leaving the strand on the heating plate for 30 minutes, the vinyl film was removed and the strand was then rinsed with tap water (37 °C). After squeezing out the excess water, each strand was washed with a 1% by weight solution of ordinary shampoo for 5 minutes at 1340 rpm, then rinsed with tap water (37 °C) and blow-dried. hair. The formulation of the standard shampoo used in the color degradation analysis is shown in Table 2 below. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0249] [Tables2] Ingredients Ordinary Color Degradation Shampoo: Cocamide MEA 0.5, Sodium Chloride 0.5, Glycerin 2, Coco-Betaine 10, Sodium Laureth Sulfate 12, Laureth-12 0.25, Sodium Benzoate 0.5, Salicylic Acid 0.2, Citric Acid (Qs. pH 5.3), Sodium Hydroxide (Qs. pH 5.3), Water (Qs. 100)

[0250] The difference in color of the colored and permed strand before and after shampooing, with respect to color degradation, was measured by measuring the colorimetric values ​​(L*, a*, b*, brightness / green-red / blue-yellow) using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrophotometer. The AE*ab values ​​(between the strand before and after the coloring process under the AL*a*b system) were calculated. The average value of two samples was calculated for each experiment. A lower AE*ab indicates better color protection.

[0251] [Tables3] Ingredients Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Lauric acid 5 5 5 5 Hydrogenated castor oil / sebatic acid copolymer - 0.2 0.5 2 Caprylic / capric triglyceride qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Color protection rating AE*ab 5.56 3.09 2.74 3.06

[0252] [Tables4] Ingredients Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Myristic acid 5 - - - - Palmitic acid - 5 - - - Stearic acid - - 5 - - Oleic acid - - - 5 - Linoleic acid - - - - 5 Hydrogenated castor oil / sebatic acid copolymer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Caprylic / capric triglyceride qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Evaluation Color protection AE*ab 2.77 3.38 3.00 2.64 3.56

[0253] As can be seen in Tables 3 and 4, the compositions according to Examples 1 to 8, which included a specific combination of ingredients (a) and (b), were able to achieve a low AE*ab, meaning that they could prevent fading of the colors of colored keratinous fibers and give colored keratinous fibers an improved color protection effect.

[0254] Furthermore, the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not include the (b) oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, showed a higher AE*ab, indicating that it provided poor color protection. Example 9

[0255] [Preparation]

[0256] A first composition and a second composition for hair according to Example 9 was prepared by mixing the ingredients under ambient conditions until homogeneous. The formulations of each composition are shown in Table 5. The hydrogenated castor oil / sebacylic acid copolymer was obtained from Croda and sold under the name Crodabond CSA. Numerical values ​​for the quantities of ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0257] [Evaluation]

[0258] The same coloured and permed strand of hair used in Examples 1 to 8 and in Comparative Example 1 above has been used in this example.

[0259] A colored and permed hair strand (1 g, 10 cm) was placed on a heating plate at 27 °C. The first composition was applied to the hair strand at a concentration of 1 g / g of hair, and then covered with vinyl film. After leaving the strand on the heating plate for 15 minutes, the second composition was applied to the hair strand at a concentration of 1 g / g of hair without rinsing, and then covered with vinyl film. After leaving it on the plate for 15 minutes, the vinyl film was removed, and the hair strand was rinsed with tap water (37 °C). After squeezing out the excess water, the strand was washed with a 1% by weight solution of ordinary shampoo for color degradation analysis for 5 minutes at 1340 rpm, then rinsed with tap water (37 °C) and dried with a hairdryer.The ordinary shampoo used for color degradation analysis was the same as that used in Examples 1 to 9 and in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, and whose formulation is shown in Table 2 above.

[0260] The color difference of the colored and permed strand before and after shampooing for color removal was measured by measuring the colorimetric values ​​(L*, a*, b*, brightness / green-red / blue-yellow) using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrophotometer. The AE*ab values ​​(between the strand before and after the coloring process under the AL*a*b system) were calculated. The average value of two samples was calculated for each experiment. A lower AE*ab indicates better color protection.

[0261] [Tables5] Ingredients First composition Second composition Lauric acid 10 - Hydrogenated castor oil / sebatic acid copolymer - 0.4 Caprylic / capric triglyceride qs 100 qs100 Color protection assessment AE*ab 3.74

[0262] As can be seen in Table 5, a process according to the present invention in which the first composition and the second composition were subsequently applied to the keratinous fibers exhibited an improved color protection effect.

[0263] Consequently, it can be concluded that the composition and cosmetic process according to the present invention are very well suited to the treatment of colored keratinous fibers, as they can show an improved color protection effect.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising: (a) at least one fatty acid; and (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, which is a hydrogenated castor oil / sebacic acid copolymer, wherein the amount of (a) fatty acid(s) in the composition is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is selected from linear saturated fatty acids and linear unsaturated fatty acids having 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fatty acid is selected from fatty acids having from 6 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty acid is selected from arachidic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising an oil selected from triglycerides.

6. Cosmetic process for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 on keratinous fibers.

7. A cosmetic process for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying to the keratinous fibers a first composition comprising either (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid which is a hydrogenated castor oil / sebatic acid copolymer, and (ii) applying to the keratinous fibers a second composition comprising either (a) at least one fatty acid or (b) at least one oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated diacid, which is not included in the first composition, in which the quantity of the (a) fatty acid(s) in the first or second composition is at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.