Oily phase including at least one UV filter

Abstract

Oily phase comprising at least one mineral UV filter and a compound of Formula I: Formula I, where R1 is a linear or branched chain comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms, which may have from 0 to 5 double bonds, preferably from 0 to 3 double bonds, and R2 comprises 3 to 12 carbon atoms and has from 3 to 8 OH groups.

Description

Title of the invention: Oily phase comprising at least one UV filter

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of mixtures of compounds intended to be included in the composition of a cosmetic formulation comprising at least one UV filter applicable to the skin of a vertebrate, for example of a human or an animal.

[0002] For the purposes of this description, an interval described by the expression "between [...] and [...]" includes the bounds. For example, the interval "between 1 and 2" includes the two values ​​"1" and "2" as well as all values ​​that are both strictly greater than 1 and strictly less than 2.

[0003] In the context of this description, the term "approximately" preceding a numeric value means that the value can be changed by plus or minus 10%. In the specific case of a numeric value being an interval limit, the term "approximately" means that the lower limit can be reduced by 10% or that the upper limit can be increased by 10%. It is also possible to omit the term "approximately" preceding a numeric value.

[0004] For the purposes of this description, sorbitan olivate shall in no case be considered an "emollient" or an "emulsifier" within the meaning of this description. Therefore, for the purposes of this description, the terms "emollient" and "emulsifier" are used to refer to compounds other than sorbitan olivate.

[0005] Within the framework of this description, the quantities disclosed for a fraction of a composition may be combined with those relating to the entire composition. For example, if one embodiment is "compound X is present at a mass percentage of 1%, relative to the mass of said oily phase," and another embodiment is "said oily phase is present at a mass percentage of between approximately 25% and approximately 70%, relative to the mass of said cosmetic formulation," these embodiments may be combined into "compound X is present at a mass percentage of between approximately 0.25% and approximately 0.75%, relative to the mass of said cosmetic formulation."

[0006] For some decades, the world's population has rightly realized that excessive exposure to ultraviolet ("UV") radiation can lead to premature skin aging and a large number of serious pathologies, including skin cancers.

[0007] In this context, manufacturers have developed a number of formulations capable of mitigating the effect of this radiation.

[0008] Two main categories of useful ingredients have been developed: chemical UV filters and mineral UV filters.

[0009] Chemical UV filters are organic substances that have the capacity to absorb harmful UV rays. These filters generally possess conjugated systems such as aromatic rings, carbonyl or carbon double bonds that enable UV absorption. Each filter blocks a specific range of UV wavelengths, and the range of wavelengths blocked is characteristic of each of these chemical UV filters.

[0010] Chemical UV filters have a number of disadvantages.

[0011] First of all, for complete protection against UV rays, it is almost always necessary to combine several chemical UV filters, because some chemical UV filters are only effective against UVB rays, while others only block UVA rays.

[0012] Furthermore, some chemical UV filters can cause irritation or allergic reactions on the skin, particularly in people with sensitive skin.

[0013] Furthermore, some chemical UV filters can penetrate the skin and be absorbed by the body, which raises concerns about their safety and potential impact on health.

[0014] Furthermore, certain chemical UV filters, such as oxybenzone, can be harmful to marine organisms and aquatic ecosystems when released into the water by bathers.

[0015] Finally, some chemical UV filters can degrade rapidly when exposed to sunlight, reducing their effectiveness and requiring very frequent application.

[0016] Mineral UV filters, also called physical filters, are ingredients that also protect the skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays by creating a physical barrier on the skin’s surface.

[0017] These mineral UV filters have undeniable advantages, as they are photo stable and opacifying, unlike chemical filters which are not always so.

[0018] In addition, they remain on the surface of the skin, which makes them less likely to cause allergic reactions.

[0019] Furthermore, mineral UV filters have a smaller and more reversible environmental impact than chemical UV filters.

[0020] A major drawback of mineral UV filters is that they reflect UV rays as well as visible light, which gives the skin a whitish appearance after application, which can be unsightly and limits their integration in large quantities within sun care products.

[0021] Currently, there are two mineral UV filters that are widely used: titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO).

[0022] Titanium dioxide is the most widely used mineral UV filter.

[0023] The size of the titanium dioxide particles also plays a role in the amount of UV absorbed, with smaller particles absorbing more UV due to their semiconducting properties.

[0024] Indeed, particle sizes of 30 to 100 nm (nano) make it possible to obtain solar products with a transparent finish.

[0025] However, a decrease in particle size can lead to a shift in UV absorption towards shorter wavelengths, thus reducing UVA spectrum coverage. There are also two types of titanium dioxide depending on their implementation: hydrophilic titanium dioxide (made dispersible in water by a surface treatment, for example including silica or alumina) and hydrophobic titanium dioxide (made dispersible in oil by a surface treatment, for example including silicones, silanes or alumina).

[0026] Zinc oxide is the second widely used mineral UV filter. Although it has the same mode of action as titanium dioxide, it produces a less white light, but is also less effective than titanium dioxide, as it mainly covers only UVA rays.

[0027] Furthermore, the implementation of dispersions comprising zinc oxide may be more difficult than those comprising titanium dioxide due to a difference in density.

[0028] As with titanium dioxide, zinc oxide exists in hydrophobic and hydrophilic forms.

[0029] As with titanium dioxide, zinc oxide also exists in ultrafine particle size (20-80 nm), which makes it possible to avoid the white appearance on the skin.

[0030] In practice, mineral filters are often added to formulations intended to become sunscreen formulations in the form of premixes.

[0031] There is a need for oily phases and sunscreens comprising mineral filters having the following properties:

[0032] - strong UV protection;

[0033] - formulation without chemical UV filter: mineral UV filters are less likely to cause allergic reactions or skin irritation, compared to the chemical UV filters commonly used in sunscreens;

[0034] - water resistance;

[0035] - environmental protection;

[0036] - best possible sun protection with the integration of a minimum of UV filters minerals;

[0037] - perfect harmlessness;

[0038] - not causing an allergic reaction;

[0039] - causing the least possible bleaching;

[0040] - dispersion of mineral UV filters as efficiently as possible with respect to the UV radiation.

[0041] A number of compounds corresponding to Formula I below have been discovered:

[0042] [Chem.l] Formula I

[0043] With RI being a linear or branched chain comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms, which may have from 0 to 5 double bonds, preferably from 0 to 3 double bonds, and R2 comprising 3 to 12 carbon atoms and having from 3 to 8 OH groups.

[0044] For example, one of the compounds corresponding to this Formula I is sorbitan olivate (INCI SORBITAN OLIVATE, CAS 223706-40-9).

[0045] Sorbitan olivate is an ester formed by the reaction between oleic acid and sorbitol. It is not considered an "emulsifier" within the meaning of this description. It is sometimes incorporated into certain products, including cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and food.

[0046] In application FR3095124 (Laboratoires SVR SAS / Yahouni), sorbitan olivate is cited as an emulsifying surfactant usable in formulations comprising chemical UV filters.

[0047] In application WO2007031139 (Schwan-Stabilo Cosmetics / Zech et al.), sorbitan olivate is cited.

[0048] In application US2007218021 (Azur Skin / Wells), sorbitan olivate is also cited.

[0049] In application WO2022006215 (AMYRIS / Mariano et al.), formulations including sorbitan olivate are disclosed.

[0050] In application WO2021155115 (AMYRIS / Mariano et al.), formulations including sorbitan olivate are also disclosed.

[0051] Finally, in application EP4059574 (Bioart Biocosméticos Ltda / Zonta et al.), formulations including sorbitan olivate are also disclosed.

[0052] Surprisingly, it has been discovered that an oily phase comprising at least one mineral UV filter and a Formula I compound exhibits greatly increased efficiency against UV radiation, compared to the same oily phase not comprising a Formula I compound.

[0053] Surprisingly, it has also been found that a solar formulation comprising at least one mineral UV filter and a Formula I compound exhibits greatly increased effectiveness against UV radiation, compared to the same formulation not comprising a Formula I compound.

[0054] As mentioned previously, the compounds according to Formula I correspond to the following formula:

[0055] [Chem.2] Formula I

[0056] With RI being a linear or branched chain comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms, which may have from 0 to 5 double bonds, preferably from 0 to 3 double bonds, and R2 comprising 3 to 12 carbon atoms and having from 3 to 8 OH groups, preferably from 3 to 5 OH groups.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the compound of Formula I is sorbitan olivate.

[0058] The invention relates first of all to an oily phase comprising at least one mineral UV filter and at least one compound of Formula I.

[0059] In one embodiment, at least one mineral UV filter is selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, at least one mineral UV filter is selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide and mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. In one embodiment, at least one mineral UV filter is titanium dioxide. In one embodiment, at least one mineral UV filter is zinc oxide. In one embodiment, at least one mineral UV filter is a mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

[0060] In one embodiment, the mass percentage of at least one mineral UV filter is between approximately 5% and approximately 50%, preferably between approximately 15% and approximately 35%, preferably between approximately 20% and approximately 30%, preferably between about 22% and about 28%, preferably between about 25% and about 28%, preferably about 26%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

[0061] In one embodiment, the oily phase comprises both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, with a mass ratio of titanium dioxide to zinc oxide of between about 0.1 and about 5.0, preferably between about 0.5 and about 4.5, preferably between about 1.0 and about 4.0, preferably between about 1.5 and about 3.5, preferably between about 2.0 and about 3.0, preferably between about 2.2 and about 2.6, preferably about 2.4.

[0062] In one embodiment, the rutile crystalline form of titanium dioxide is present at a mass percentage greater than 95%, preferably greater than 96%, preferably greater than 97%, preferably greater than 98%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total mass of titanium dioxide.

[0063] In one embodiment, the median size of the zinc oxide particles is between approximately 367 nanometers and approximately 1467 nanometers, preferably between approximately 330 nanometers and approximately 1100 nanometers, preferably between approximately 367 nanometers and approximately 1008 nanometers, preferably between approximately 458 nanometers and approximately 917 nanometers, preferably between approximately 550 nanometers and approximately 733 nanometers, preferably between approximately 587 nanometers and approximately 697 nanometers, preferably between approximately 623 nanometers and approximately 697 nanometers, preferably approximately 660 nanometers, and / or in one embodiment, the specific surface area of ​​the zinc oxide particles is between approximately 5 and approximately 23 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 5 and approximately 17 square meters per cubic centimeter. cubic centimeter,preferably between approximately 5 and approximately 16 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 7 and approximately 15 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 9 and approximately 12 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 9 and approximately 11 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 10 and approximately 11 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably approximately 10.5 square meters per cubic centimeter.

[0064] In one embodiment, the median size of the titanium dioxide particles is between approximately 100 and approximately 398 nanometers, preferably between approximately 89 and approximately 298 nanometers, preferably between approximately 100 and approximately 274 nanometers, preferably between approximately 124 and approximately 249 nanometers, preferably between approximately 149 and approximately 199 nanometers, preferably between approximately 159 and approximately 189 nanometers, preferably between about 169 and about 189 nanometers, preferably about 179 nanometers and / or in one embodiment, the specific surface area of ​​the titanium dioxide particles is between about 52 and about 241 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between about 52 and about 178 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between about 52 and about 168 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between about 73 and about 157 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between about 94 and about 125 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between about 94 and about 115 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between about 105 and about 115 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably about 110 square meters per cubic centimeter.

[0065] In one embodiment, the median size of the titanium dioxide particles is between approximately 356 and approximately 1415 nanometers, preferably between approximately 316 and approximately 1061 nanometers, preferably between approximately 356 and approximately 975 nanometers, preferably between approximately 441 and approximately 885 nanometers, preferably between approximately 530 and approximately 709 nanometers, preferably between approximately 565 and approximately 673 nanometers, preferably between approximately 601 and approximately 673 nanometers, preferably approximately 639 nanometers and / or in one embodiment, the specific surface area of ​​the titanium dioxide particles is between approximately 7 and approximately 32 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 7 and approximately 24 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 7 and approximately 23 square meters per cubic centimeter,preferably between approximately 10 and approximately 21 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 13 and approximately 17 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 13 and approximately 15 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 14 and approximately 15 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably approximately 14.8 square meters per cubic centimeter.

[0066] In one embodiment, the mass percentage of compound of Formula I is between about 0.1% and about 10%, preferably between about 0.2% and about 5%, preferably between about 0.5% and about 2.5%, preferably between about 1.0% and about 2.5%, preferably between about 1.5% and about 2.0%, preferably between about 1.7% and about 2.0%, preferably between about 1.8% and about 1.9%, preferably about 1.88%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

[0067] In one embodiment, the compound of Formula I is sorbitan olivate.

[0068] In one embodiment, the mass percentage of sorbitan olivate is between approximately 0.1% and approximately 10%, preferably between approximately 0.2% and about 5%, preferably between about 0.5% and about 2.5%, preferably between about 1.0% and about 2.5%, preferably between about 1.5% and about 2.0%, preferably between about 1.7% and about 2.0%, preferably between about 1.8% and about 1.9%, preferably about 1.88%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

[0069] In one embodiment, said oily phase also comprising at least one emollient.

[0070] In one embodiment, at least one emollient is selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether (INCI DICAPRYLYL ETHER), ethyl oleate (INCI ETHYL OLEATE), stearic acid (INCI STEARIC ACID), dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE), isostearic acid (INCI ISOSTEARIC ACID), C15-C19 alkanes (INCI C15-C19 ALKANES), caprylic / capric triglycerides (INCI CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDES), glyceryl stearate (INCI GLYCERYL STEARATE), jojoba oil (INCI SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL), and shea butter (INCI BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER), avocado oil (INCI PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO) OIL), sweet almond oil (INCI PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) OIL), oleic acid (INCI OLEIC ACID), squalane (INCI SQUALANE), lanolin (INCI LANOLIN), argan oil (INCI ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL), coconut oil (INCI COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL),sunflower oil (INCI HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL), palmitic acid (INCI PALMITIC ACID) and olive oil (INCI OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL), as well as mixtures thereof.

[0071] In one embodiment, at least one emollient is chosen from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether (INCI DICAPRYLYL ETHER), ethyl oleate (INCI ETHYL OLEATE), stearic acid (INCI STEARIC ACID), dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE), isostearic acid (INCI ISOSTEARIC ACID), C15-C19 alkanes (C15-C19 ALKANES), caprylic / capric triglycerides (INCI CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDES), and mixtures thereof.

[0072] In one embodiment, at least one emollient is chosen from the group consisting of stearic acid (INCI STEARIC ACID), dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE), isostearic acid (INCI ISOSTEARIC ACID), caprylic / capric triglycerides (INCI CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDES), and mixtures thereof.

[0073] In one embodiment, at least one emollient is dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE).

[0074] In one embodiment, the mass percentage of at least one emollient is between about 10% and about 50%, preferably between about 15% and about 45%, preferably between about 20% and about 40%, preferably between about 25% and about 35%, preferably between about 30% and about 35%, preferably about 33%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

[0075] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE).

[0076] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE) at a mass percentage of between about 15% and about 75%, preferably between about 18% and about 72%, preferably between about 21% and about 70%, preferably between about 24% and about 66%, preferably between about 27% and about 63%, preferably between about 30% and about 60%, preferably between about 33% and about 58%, preferably between about 36% and about 55%, preferably between about 39% and about 51%, preferably between about 42% and about 48%, preferably about 45%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

[0077] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises C15-C19 alkanes (INCI C15-C19 ALKANES).

[0078] In one embodiment, said oil phase comprises C15-C19 alkanes (INCI C15-C19 ALKANES) at a mass percentage of between about 6% and about 28%, preferably between about 7% and about 27%, preferably between about 8% and about 26%, preferably between about 9% and about 25%, preferably between about 10% and about 23%, preferably between about 12% and about 22%, preferably between about 13% and about 21%, preferably between about 14% and about 20%, preferably between about 15% and about 19%, preferably about 16%, relative to the total mass of said oil phase.

[0079] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE) and C15-C19 alkanes (INCI C15-C19 ALKANES).

[0080] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE) at a mass percentage of between approximately 15% and approximately 75%, preferably between approximately 18% and approximately 72%, preferably between approximately 21% and approximately 70%, preferably between approximately 24% and approximately 66%, preferably between approximately 27% and approximately 63%, preferably between approximately 30% and approximately 60%, preferably between about 33% and about 58%, preferably between about 36% and about 55%, preferably between about 39% and about 51%, preferably between about 42% and about 48%, preferably about 45%, relative to the total mass of said oil phase, and C15-C19 alkanes (INCI C15-C19 ALKANES) at a mass percentage between about 6% and about 28%, preferably between about 7% and about 27%, preferably between about 8% and about 26%, preferably between about 9% and about 25%, preferably between about 10% and about 23%, preferably between about 12% and about 22%, preferably between about 13% and about 21%, preferably between about 14% and about 20%, of preferably between about 15% and about 19%, preferably about 16%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

[0081] In one embodiment, said oily phase also includes at least one emulsifying agent.

[0082] In one embodiment, at least one emulsifying agent is selected from the group consisting of polyhydrostearic acid (INCI POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID), polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE), diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (INCI DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE), polyglyceryl-6 polyhydroxystearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (AND) POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE), polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE), ITsostearate of Sorbitan (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (INCI SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE (AND) POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE), Glyceryl Laurate (INCI GLYCERYL LAURATE), Glyceryl Caprylate (INCI GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE), Glyceryl Stearate (INCI GLYCERYL STEARATE), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-3 METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE),Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE), Sucrose Stearate (INCI SUCROSE STEARATE), Sucrose Cocoate (INCI SUCROSE COCOATE), PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate (INCI PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE), Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate (INCI PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE), Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate (INCI NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DIHEPTANOATE), Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-10 MYRISTATE), and mixtures thereof.

[0083] In one embodiment, at least one emulsifying agent is selected from the group consisting of polyhydrostearic acid (INCI POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID), polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE), diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (INCI DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE), polyglyceryl-6 polyhydroxystearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (AND) POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE), polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE), Sorbitan ISOSTEARATE (AND) POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE, and their mixtures.

[0084] In one embodiment, at least one emulsifying agent is chosen from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACAT E), Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE), and mixtures thereof.

[0085] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises the emulsifier Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE).

[0086] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises the emulsifier Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE) at a mass percentage of between approximately 1.9% and approximately 9.4%, preferably between approximately 2.3% and approximately 9.0%, preferably between approximately 2.6% and approximately 8.7%, preferably between approximately 3.0% and approximately 8.3%, preferably between approximately 3.4% and approximately 7.9%, preferably between approximately 3.8% and approximately 7.5%, preferably between approximately 4.5% and approximately 7.1%, preferably between approximately 4.5% and approximately 7.1%, preferably between approximately 4.9% and approximately 6.8%, preferably between between about 5.3% and about 6.4%, preferably about 5.6%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

[0087] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises the emulsifier Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE).

[0088] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises the emulsifier Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE) at a mass percentage of between about 0.6% and about 3.1%, preferably between about 0.8% and about 3.0%, preferably between about 0.9% and about 2.9%, preferably between about 1.0% and about 2.8%, preferably between about 1.1% and about 2.6%, preferably between about 1.3% and about 2.5%, preferably between about 1.5% and about 2.4%, preferably between about 1.5% and about 2.4%, preferably between about 1.6% and about 2.3%, preferably between about 1.8% and about 2.1%, preferably about 1.9%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

[0089] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises the emulsifier Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE) and the emulsifier Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE).

[0090] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises the emulsifier Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE) at a mass percentage of between approximately 1.9% and approximately 9.4%, preferably between approximately 2.3% and approximately 9.0%, preferably between approximately 2.6% and approximately 8.7%, preferably between approximately 3.0% and approximately 8.3%, preferably between approximately 3.4% and approximately 7.9%, preferably between approximately 3.8% and approximately 7.5%, preferably between approximately 4.5% and approximately 7.1%, preferably between approximately 4.5% and approximately 7.1%, preferably between approximately 4.9% and approximately 6.8%, preferably between approximately 5.3% and approximately 6.4%, preferably approximately 5.6%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase,and the emulsifier Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE) at a mass percentage of between approximately 0.6% and approximately 3.1%, preferably between approximately 0.8% and approximately 3.0%, preferably between approximately 0.9% and approximately 2.9%, preferably between approximately 1.0% and approximately 2.8%, preferably between approximately 1.1% and approximately 2.6%, preferably between approximately 1.3% and approximately 2.5%, preferably between approximately 1.5% and approximately 2.4%, preferably between approximately 1.5% and approximately 2.4%, preferably between approximately 1.6% and approximately 2.3%, preferably between approximately 1.8% and approximately 2.1%, preferably approximately 1.9%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

[0091] In one embodiment, said oily phase comprises the emulsifier Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE) and the emulsifier Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE).

[0092] In one embodiment, said oily phase also includes at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent.

[0093] In one embodiment, said oily phase also comprises at least one antioxidant agent selected from the group consisting of vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin A (retinol), coenzyme Q10, carotenoids such as beta-carotene and / or lycopene, omega-3 fatty acids such as alpha-linolenic acid and / or eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and / or docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), flavonoids such as quercetin and catechin, selenium, alpha lipoid, astaxanthin, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] In one embodiment, said oily phase also includes at least one antioxidant agent being vitamin E (tocopherol).

[0095] In one embodiment, said at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent is present at a mass percentage of between approximately 0.031% and approximately 0.157%, preferably between approximately 0.038% and approximately 0.150%, preferably between approximately 0.044% and approximately 0.145%, preferably between approximately 0.050% and approximately 0.138%, preferably between approximately 0.056% and approximately 0.132%, preferably between approximately 0.063% and approximately 0.125%, preferably between approximately 0.075% and approximately 0.119%, preferably between approximately 0.075% and approximately 0.119%, preferably between approximately 0.081% and approximately 0.113%, preferably between approximately 0.088% and approximately 0.107%, of preference of about 0.094%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

[0096] In one embodiment, said oily phase is devoid of chemical UV filter.

[0097] The invention also relates to a cosmetic formulation comprising an oily phase according to the invention. In one embodiment, said formulation is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0098] In a preferred embodiment, said emulsion is a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0099] Indeed, these emulsions tend to offer higher protection against UV rays than oil-in-water emulsions. This is because the oil phase of the emulsion can contain lipodispersible sunscreens, which are more effective than water-dispersible sunscreens. Furthermore, water-in-oil emulsions are also more water-resistant than oil-in-water emulsions, making them more suitable for use in humid environments or during water sports. In addition, water-in-oil emulsions tend to have a more Rich and more nourishing, making them particularly suitable for dry and dehydrated skin. Furthermore, this texture allows for easier and more even application, especially within the scope of this invention.

[0100] In one embodiment, said oily phase represents between about 25% and about 70% of the mass of said cosmetic formulation, preferably between about 45% and about 65% of the mass of said cosmetic formulation, preferably between about 48% and about 58% of the mass of said cosmetic formulation, preferably between about 50% and about 55% of the mass of said cosmetic formulation.

[0101] In one embodiment, said formulation further comprises at least one pigment, preferably at least one iron oxide.

[0102] In one embodiment, said pigment is chosen from the group consisting of iron trioxide (yellow) (INCI Iron Oxides (Yellow)), iron trioxide (red) (INCI Iron Oxides (Red)), iron trioxide (black) (INCI Iron Oxides (Black)), and mixtures thereof.

[0103] In one embodiment, said at least one pigment is present at a mass percentage of between approximately 0.0525% and approximately 0.245%, preferably between approximately 0.06125% and approximately 0.23625%, preferably between approximately 0.07% and approximately 0.2275%, preferably between approximately 0.07875% and approximately 0.21875%, preferably between approximately 0.0875% and approximately 0.20125%, preferably between approximately 0.105% and approximately 0.1925%, preferably between approximately 0.11375% and approximately 0.18375%, preferably between approximately 0.1225% and approximately 0.175%, preferably between approximately 0.13125% and approximately 0.16625%, preferably of approximately 0.14%, relative to the total mass of said cosmetic formulation.

[0104] In one embodiment, when said formulation comprises at least one pigment, in particular at least one of those mentioned above, then it also comprises dextrin palmitate (INCI DEXTRINE PALMITATE), preferably at a mass percentage of between approximately 0.32% and approximately 1.64%, preferably between approximately 0.42% and approximately 1.59%, preferably between approximately 0.48% and approximately 1.54%, preferably between approximately 0.53% and approximately 1.49%, preferably between approximately 0.58% and approximately 1.38%, preferably between approximately 0.69% and approximately 1.32%, preferably between approximately 0.79% and approximately 1.27%, preferably between approximately 0.79% and approximately 1.27%, preferably between approximately 0.85% and approximately 1.22%, preferably between between about 0.95% and about 1.11%, preferably about 1%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

[0105] In one embodiment, said formulation is devoid of chemical UV filter.

[0106] In one embodiment, the compound of Formula I, preferably sorbitan olivate, is present at a mass percentage of between approximately 0.32% and approximately 1.64%, preferably between approximately 0.42% and approximately 1.59%, preferably between approximately 0.48% and approximately 1.54%, preferably between approximately 0.53% and approximately 1.49%, preferably between approximately 0.58% and approximately 1.38%, preferably between approximately 0.69% and approximately 1.32%, preferably between approximately 0.79% and approximately 1.27%, preferably between approximately 0.79% and approximately 1.27%, preferably between approximately 0.85% and approximately 1.22%, preferably between approximately 0.95% and approximately 1.11%, preferably approximately 1%, per relative to the total mass of said formulation.

[0107] Of course, all embodiments applicable to the oily phase according to the invention are also applicable to the formulation according to the invention.

[0108] The invention also relates to the use of a Formula I compound to increase UV protection of a cosmetic formulation comprising at least one UV filter, preferably a mineral UV filter.

[0109] In one embodiment, said increase in protection corresponds to a multiplication of the SPF by a number greater than about 1.01, preferably greater than about 1.2, preferably greater than about 1.3, preferably greater than about 1.4, preferably greater than about 1.5.

[0110] In one embodiment, said increase in protection corresponds to a multiplication of UVA-PF by a number greater than about 1.01, preferably greater than about 1.2, preferably greater than about 1.3, preferably greater than about 1.4, preferably greater than about 1.5.

[0111] In one embodiment, this use is a use within a formulation according to the invention.

[0112] Of course, all embodiments applicable to cosmetic formulations according to the invention are also applicable to the use described above.

[0113] The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing an oily phase, comprising the following steps:

[0114] - Step 1: to have a phase A2 comprising at least one emollient and at least a mineral UV filter;

[0115] In one embodiment, this phase A2 is homogenized, for example by using Ultraturrax, for example for a period of between approximately 5 and approximately 35 minutes, preferably between approximately 10 and approximately 30 minutes, preferably between approximately 15 and approximately 25 minutes, preferably approximately 20 minutes, and preferably at a temperature between approximately 40°C and approximately 100°C, preferably between approximately 50°C and approximately 90°C, preferably between approximately 60°C and approximately 80°C, preferably approximately 70°C. Preferably, after homogenization, phase A2 is put into the deflocculator and heated to a temperature between approximately 40°C and approximately 100°C, preferably between approximately 50°C and approximately 90°C, preferably between approximately 60°C and approximately 80°C, preferably approximately 70°C, and / or for a duration of between approximately 2.5 and approximately 17.5 minutes, preferably between approximately 5 and approximately 15 minutes, preferably between approximately 7.5 and approximately 12.5 minutes, preferably approximately 10 minutes.

[0116] - Step 1': to have an Al phase comprising at least one compound of Formula I, an emulsifier and an emollient;

[0117] In one embodiment, this Al phase is homogenized, for example by using Ultraturrax, for example for a period of between about 5 and about 35 minutes, preferably between about 10 and about 30 minutes, preferably between about 15 and about 25 minutes, preferably about 20 minutes, and / or preferably at a temperature between about 40°C and about 100°C, preferably between about 50°C and about 90°C, preferably between about 60°C and about 80°C, preferably about 70°C.

[0118] In one embodiment, at least one compound of Formula I, which is preferably sorbitan olivate, is present in said phase A1 at a mass percentage of between about 2% and about 18%, preferably between about 4% and about 16%, preferably between about 6% and about 14%, preferably between about 8% and about 12%, preferably between about 9% and about 12%, preferably between about 10% and about 12%, preferably about 11%, relative to the total mass of said phase A2.

[0119] In one embodiment, at least one emollient is present in said phase A1 at a mass percentage of between about 8% and about 72%, preferably between about 16% and about 64%, preferably between about 24% and about 56%, preferably between about 32% and about 48%, preferably between about 36% and about 48%, preferably between about 40% and about 48%, preferably about 44%, relative to the total mass of said phase A2.

[0120] In one embodiment, at least one emulsifier is present in said phase A1 at a mass percentage of between about 8% and about 72%, preferably between about 16% and about 64%, preferably between about 24% and about 56%, preferably between about 32% and about 48%, preferably between about 36% and about 48%, preferably between about 40% and about 48%, preferably about 44%, relative to the total mass of said phase A2.

[0121] Step 1”: to have an aqueous phase (phase B).

[0122] Of course, steps 1, 1' and 1” can be carried out in any order or simultaneously. Preferably, steps 1 and 1' are completed at the same time to facilitate the continuation of the process.

[0123] Step 2: Phases Al and A2 are mixed and stirred.

[0124] Preferably, the agitation is carried out for a period of between approximately 2.5 and approximately 17.5 minutes, preferably between approximately 5 and approximately 15 minutes, preferably between approximately 7.5 and approximately 12.5 minutes, preferably approximately 10 minutes, and / or at a temperature between approximately 40°C and approximately 100°C, preferably between approximately 50°C and approximately 90°C, preferably between approximately 60°C and approximately 80°C, preferably approximately 70°C, and / or at a speed between approximately 100 revolutions per minute and approximately 1000 revolutions per minute, preferably between approximately 200 revolutions per minute and approximately 900 revolutions per minute, preferably between approximately 300 revolutions per minute and approximately 800 revolutions per minute, preferably between approximately 400 revolutions per minute and approximately 600 revolutions per minute.

[0125] Step 3: Phases A1 / A2 and B are linked and emulsified.

[0126] Preferably, B is added to A1 / A2. By reference, the emulsion is carried out for a period of between approximately 5 and approximately 35 minutes, preferably between approximately 10 and approximately 30 minutes, preferably between approximately 15 and approximately 25 minutes, preferably approximately 15 minutes and / or at a speed of between approximately 200 rotations per minute and approximately 2000 rotations per minute, preferably between approximately 400 rotations per minute and approximately 1800 rotations per minute, preferably between approximately 600 rotations per minute and approximately 1600 rotations per minute, preferably between approximately 800 rotations per minute and approximately 1200 rotations per minute.Once the emulsion has been made, the mixture is stirred at a speed of between approximately 140 revolutions per minute and approximately 1400 revolutions per minute, preferably between approximately 280 revolutions per minute and approximately 1260 revolutions per minute, preferably between approximately 420 revolutions per minute and approximately 1120 revolutions per minute, preferably between approximately 560 revolutions per minute and approximately 840 revolutions per minute and / or for a period of between approximately 1.67 and approximately 11.67 minutes, preferably between approximately 3.33 and approximately 10 minutes, preferably between approximately 5 and approximately 8.33 minutes, preferably approximately 5 minutes.

[0127] Next, the mixture is preferably cooled with an ice water bath under stirring at a speed of between about 80 revolutions per minute and about 800 revolutions per minute, preferably between about 160 revolutions per minute and about 720 revolutions per minute, preferably between about 240 revolutions per minute and approximately 640 rotations per minute, preferably between approximately 320 rotations per minute and approximately 480 rotations per minute.

[0128] Examples

[0129] Example 1: Preparation of oily phases according to the invention and of cosmetic formulations according to the invention

[0130] First, mixtures comprising mineral UV filters are prepared.

[0131] First, all the compounds except the mineral UV filter are mixed using an ultra-turrax until they reach a temperature of about 70 °C.

[0132] Next, the mineral UV filter powder is added gradually in a fine spray, under adequate and increasing agitation. At the end of this addition, the mixture is stirred continuously for 25 minutes, again.

[0133] The following mixtures are obtained:

[0134] [Tables 1] Mixture Tl Compound (INCI) Mass Percentage (%, w / w) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (median particle size: 179 nanometers; specific surface area: 1 x 10²² per cubic centimeter) 47.85 ALUMINA 0.49 STEARIC ACID 0.49 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 47.67 POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE 0.18 LECITHIN 0.18 ISOSTEARIC ACID 0.18 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 1.40 POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID 1.58

[0135] Table 1: Tl mixture

[0136] [Tables2] ZI Mixture Compound (INCI) Mass Percentage (%, w / w) ZINC OXIDE (median particle size: 6-60 nanometers; specific surface area: 10.5 square meters per cubic centimeter) 46.62 STEARIC ACID 2.45 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 46.43 POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE 0.23 LECITHIN 0.23 ISOSTEARIC ACID 0.23 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDES 1.80 POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID 2.03

[0137] Table 2: ZI mixture

[0138] [Tables3] T2 Blend Compound (INCI) Mass Percentage (%, w / w) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (median particle size: 639 nanometers; specific surface area: 1 4.8 square meters per cubic centimeter) 42.34 SILICA 7.06 STEARIC ACID 4.89 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 42.22 POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE 0.18 LECITHIN 0.18 ISOSTEARIC ACID 0.18 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDES 1.40 POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID 1.58

[0139] Table 3: Mixture T2

[0140] The process for preparing the formulations according to the invention is as follows:

[0141] Oily phase

[0142] 1 / Phase A2: Place emollients and dispersions under Ultraturrax - Disperse for 20 minutes, speed 6 at 70°C (adjust according to quantity / size of beaker);

[0143] 2 / Put A2 in the deflocculator and heat to 70°C for 10 minutes;

[0144] 3 / Heat and vigorously stir Al to 70°C on another plate then add phase A1 / A2 - shake for 10 minutes (500 rotations per minute);

[0145] Aqueous phase

[0146] 4 / Phase B: Place the raw materials in order, dissolve, heat to 70°C, must be transparent (magnetic stirring).

[0147] Emulsion

[0148] 5 / Add B into A and gradually increase the stirring (stop heating).

[0149] Emulsify for at least 15 minutes at 1000-1500 rotations per minute.

[0150] Once the emulsion has been made, reduce the speed to 600-800 rotations per minute (5 minutes)

[0151] 6 / Cool with an ice water bath (200-600 rotations per minute)

[0152] 7 / When the temperature falls below 40°C, change the agitation by the planetary and add phase C (100-200 rotations per minute).

[0153] 8 / Cool for 10 minutes then allow to return to room temperature and let the bubbles subside if needed.

[0154] The compositions obtained are as follows:

[0155] [Tables4] Formula Reference 21003.53 21003.62 21003.54 21003.55 Type Compounds, original phase and mass percentages (%, w / w) Mineral filter dispersion Mixture Tl (Phase A2) 21.0% 21.0% 31.1% 17.5% Mixture T2 (Phase A2) 0.0% 0.0% 0.0% 3.0% Mixture ZI (Phase A2) 9% 9% 13.5% 0.0% Emollient Cetiol CC (INCI DICAPRYLYL C ARBONATE) (Phase A2) 8.0% 8.0% 2.0% 2.3% Emogreen L15 (INCI C15-19 ALKANE) (Phase A1 (4 / 9) and Phase A2 (5 / 9)) 10.0% 10.0% 9.0% 4.0% Antioxidant 1 ipophile Bioxan T70 (INCI TOCOPHEROL) (Phase C) 0.05% 0.05% 0.05% 0.05% Beautyderm K9 sorbitan olivate (INCI SORBITAN OLIVATE) (Phase Al) 1.0% 2.0% 1.0% 1.0% Emulsionnan t (O / W) Isolan GPS (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIIS OSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXY STEARATE / SEBACATE) (Phase Al) 3.0% 3.0% 3.0% 3.0% Isolan PDI (INCI DIISOSTEAROYL POLYG LYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLE ATE) (Phase Al) 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% Total oily phase 53.1% 54.1% 60.7% 31.9% Aqueous phase Euxyl K903 (Phase C) 0.75% 0.75% 0.75% 0.75% Aloe Vera Powder 200X (INCI ALOE BARBADENSIS LE AF EXTRACT) (Phase B) 0.11% 0.11% 0.11% 0.11% Aquaxyl (INCI XYLITYLGLUCO SIDE - ANHYDROXYLITOL - (Phase B) 3.00% 3.00% 3.00% 3.00% Water (Phase B) (Qsp: "sufficient quantity for") Qsp 100% Qsp 100% Qsp 100% Qsp 100% Total aqueous phase 47% 46% 39.3% 68% Reference SPF (sorbitan olivate absent, replaced by the same quantity of water) measured according to ISO 24444:2019. 31.91 23.1 45.07 29.15 Formula SPF with sorbitan olivate measured according to ISO 24444:2019.52.42 35.56 56.28 37.58 UVA-PF reference (sorbitan olivate absent, replaced by the same quantity of water) measured according to ISO 24443 13.83 11.16 17.06 12.61 UVA-PF formula with sorbitan olivate measured according to ISO 24443 18.37 15.12 18.56 15.33 SPF formula with sorbitan olivate / SPF formula without sorbitan olivate 1.64 1.54 1.25 1.29 SPF increase effect expressed as a percentage compared to the reference without sorbitan olivate 64% 54% 25% 29% .

[0156] Table 4: Cosmetic formulations according to the invention

[0157] It appears that within formulations 21003.53, 21003.62, 21003.54 and 21003.55, sorbitan olivate has a real effect of increasing solar properties (SPF, UVA-PF).

[0158] For example, the SPF of formulation 21003.53 is 31.91 in the absence of sorbitan olivate, and nearly 52.42 in the presence of sorbitan olivate included at a mass percentage of 1%, relative to the total mass of the formulation.

[0159] These results are very impressive.

[0160] Example 2: Preparation of cosmetic formulations according to the invention comprising pigments

[0161] A cosmetic formulation similar to formulation 21003.53 but additionally comprising pigments has been prepared, it is given in the table below.

[0162] [Tables5] Formulation 21003.53-K INCI Pourcentage massiq ue (m / m, %) Aqua 40,2900 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 23,1894 Titanium Dioxide 10,0492 C15-19 Alkane 9,0000 Zinc oxide 4,1955 Glycerin 3,0000 Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxysteara te / Sebacate 3,0000 Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 1,0000 Sorbitan Olivate 1,0000 Dextrin Palmitate 1,0000 Magnésium Sulfate 0,7000 Benzyl Alcohol 0,6075 Polyhydroxystearic Acid 0,5130 Caprylic / Capric Triglycéride 0,4560 Xylitylglucoside 0,4000 Stearic Acid 0,3234 Anhydroxylitol 0,2800 Xylitol 0,1200 Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract 0,1100 Alumina 0,1025 Potassium Sorbate 0,1000 Iron Oxides (Yellow) (CI 77492) 0,0960 Benzoic Acid 0,0900 Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate 0,0570 Lecithin 0,0570 Isostearic Acid 0,0570 Dehydroacetic Acid 0,0525 Tocopherol 0,0700 Glucose 0,0400 Iron Oxides (Red) (CI 77491) 0,0288 Iron Oxides (Black) CI 77499 0,0096 Trilaurin 0,0056

[0163] Tableau 5 : Formulation cosmétique colorée selon l’invention

[0164] Formulation 21003.53-K has a similar SPF to that of formulation 21003.53 (less than 3% difference) and a UVA-PF similar to that of the formulation 21003.53 (less than 10% difference).

Claims

Demands

1. Oily phase comprising at least one mineral UV filter and sorbitan olivate in which the mass percentage of sorbitan olivate is between 1.0% and 2.5%, preferably between 1.5% and 2.0%, preferably between 1.7% and 2.0%, preferably between 1.8% and 1.9%, preferably 1.88%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase, and in which the at least one mineral UV filter is a mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide with a mass ratio between 2.0 and 3.0, preferably between 2.2 and 2.6, preferably 2.

4.

2. Oily phase according to claim 1, characterized in that the mass percentage of sorbitan olivate is 1.88%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase, and the mass ratio of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide is between 2.2 and 2.6, preferably 2.

4.

3. Oily phase according to claim 1, characterized in that the mass percentage of at least one mineral UV filter is between 15% and 35%, preferably between 20% and 30%, preferably between 22% and 28%, preferably between 25% and 28%, preferably 26%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

4. An oily phase according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one emollient, preferably selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, ethyl oleate, stearic acid, dicaprylyl carbonate, isostearic acid, C15-C19 alkanes, caprylic / capric triglycerides, glyceryl stearate, jojoba oil, shea butter, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, oleic acid, squalane, lanolin, argan oil, coconut oil, sunflower oil, palmitic acid and olive oil, and mixtures thereof.

5. An oily phase according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one emulsifying agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of polyhydrostearic acid, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxy stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Sucrose Stearate, Sucrose Cocoate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, and mixtures thereof.

6. Cosmetic formulation comprising an oil phase according to any one of the preceding claims.

7. Cosmetic formulation according to claim 6, characterized in that it is a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.