Anhydrous composition comprising a combination of polyglycerols

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition for skincare and / or makeup, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g / mol, - a second cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g / mol, - and optionally, in addition, a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000 g / mol, it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols in the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, greater than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols in the first ingredient. cosmetics.

Description

Title of the invention: Anhydrous composition comprising a combination of polyglycerols. FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to anhydrous skin and / or lip care and / or makeup compositions comprising an association of polyglycerols. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Products on the market with a lip-plumping effect often use active ingredients with vasodilatory properties, such as extracts of pepper, chili pepper, mint or menthol, and cinnamon. Conversely, products with a smoothing or wrinkle-filling effect generally use collagen or hyaluronic acid, or active ingredients that stimulate their production, such as peptides like Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1. However, these active ingredients alone do not provide a lasting effect.

[0003] Furthermore, the use of film-forming polymers with a tightening effect for an immediate anti-wrinkle smoothing effect is known. However, the effectiveness of these polymers is also limited, either by their durability (the polymer film cracks) and lack of comfort, or by an ineffective smoothing effect (the comfort / tightening effect paradox is not achieved). Moreover, to date, the smoothing effect provided by tightening polymers is insufficient compared to women's current expectations and is not long-lasting at a sensorially acceptable dose.

[0004] There therefore remains a need to develop alternatives to these compounds for an immediate and lasting volumizing and / or smoothing result for the skin and / or lips. The Applicant has demonstrated that the use of at least two cosmetic ingredients comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, said cosmetic ingredients having distinct average molecular weights of at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, in an anhydrous composition, makes it possible to meet this need. This combination of polyglycerols having distinct average molecular weights of at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, will have a dual effect: a smoothing effect on the surface and a volumizing effect in depth.Indeed, higher molecular weight polyglycerols will provide an immediate smoothing effect and lower molecular weight polyglycerols will penetrate the first layers of the lips and skin to provide volume and substance, thus providing a volumizing effect to the lips and filling them. hollow areas of the face (e.g. temples, cheeks, under the eyes) and / or wrinkles "from the inside out", effectively and lastingly. Description of the invention

[0005] A first object of the invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition for skincare and / or makeup and / or lip care comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0006] - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g / mol,

[0007] - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol,

[0008] - and possibly also a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000g / mol,

[0009] it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is greater by at least 100g / mol, or even by at least 200g / mol, compared to the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.

[0010] Another object relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin and / or lips of a composition as defined according to the invention, in particular for plumping the lips, smoothing the skin and / or lips, and / or restoring facial and / or lip volume, and / or reducing and / or filling in hollow areas of the face and / or wrinkles. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention, when applied to the lips, provides a plumping effect (also referred to as a 'plump' effect) to the lips, with a lasting effect.

[0011] According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention, applied to the skin of the face and / or neck, provides a filling effect to hollow areas of the face (e.g. temples, cheeks, under the eyes), with a lasting effect.

[0012] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least:

[0013] - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having of 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g / mol, and

[0014] - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol,

[0015] as an active association in an anhydrous composition to plump the lips and / or smooth the skin, restore facial and / or lip volumes, and / or reduce and / or fill hollow areas of the face and / or wrinkles.

[0016] The detailed description of the invention below describes the embodiments and compositions intended for implementing the cosmetic process according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0017] The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition for skincare and / or makeup for the skin and / or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0018] - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g / mol,

[0019] - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol,

[0020] - and possibly also a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000g / mol,

[0021] it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is greater by at least 100g / mol, or even by at least 200g / mol, compared to the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.

[0022] The term "cosmetic composition" means any composition intended for cosmetic, i.e., aesthetic, purposes, which may be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body and, more particularly, with keratinous materials, especially human skin and / or lips. Skin means the skin of the face and / or neck and the skin of the body.

[0023] By "anhydrous," it is understood, in particular, that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of water, in particular less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0024] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0025] The anhydrous composition of the invention can be a fluid to liquid composition or a solid to pasty composition.

[0026] By 'fluid to liquid' according to the invention, we mean a composition which flows under its own weight at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atmosphere).

[0027] By 'pasty to solid' according to the invention, we mean a composition which is neither fluid nor liquid according to the preceding definition. Polyglycerol combination

[0028] Polyglycerols comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units constituting the polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredients usable according to the invention are in particular the following compounds:

[0029] POLYGLYCEROL-3 (240.25 g / mol) - CAS 56090-54-1,

[0030] POLYGLYCEROL -4 (314.33 g / mol) - CAS 56491-53-3,

[0031] POLYGLYCEROL -5 (380g / mol),

[0032] POLYGLYCEROL -6 (462.5 g / mol) - CAS 36675-34-0, and

[0033] POLYGLYCEROL -10 (758.8 g / mol) - CAS 9041-07-0.

[0034] The composition of the invention comprises at least two cosmetic ingredients, each comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and optionally an aqueous solvent, in particular water. The aqueous solvent, when present, is generally present in a content of 20% or less by weight, or even 10% or less by weight, relative to the cosmetic ingredient, so that the final composition comprises less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, in accordance with the aforementioned definition of an anhydrous composition.

[0035] According to a particular method, each cosmetic ingredient based on polyglycerols is made up essentially or even exclusively of one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units.

[0036] By "consisting essentially or exclusively of", it is meant that the cosmetic ingredient based on polyglycerols comprises at least 95%, or better 98%, or even better 99%, or even comprises 100% by weight of polyglycerols.

[0037] According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic ingredient consists of one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units and a hydrophilic solvent, preferably water. The polyglycerol content in such a cosmetic ingredient comprising a hydrophilic solvent (e.g., water) will generally range from 80 to 90%, in particular 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient. The INCI name of such an ingredient will be: Polyglycerin-x and aAqua (water), with x ranging from 3 to 10.

[0038] In the case where the polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredients used according to the invention are mixtures of polyglycerols of different molecular weights, the 'average molecular weight' of said cosmetic ingredient means the average of the molecular weights of said polyglycerols taking into account their respective proportions in said ingredient, the value of this average molecular weight determining the corresponding INCI name, as explained below.

[0039] For example, the cosmetic ingredient marketed by Sakamoto under the name PGL-S comprises polyglycerol-3 (major component), polyglycerol-4 and polyglycerol-5, and the average molecular weight of the constituent polyglycerols of this cosmetic ingredient is close to the molecular weight of polyglycerol-3. For this reason, the INCI name of this cosmetic ingredient, consisting of a mixture of polyglycerols (polyglycerol-3, polyglycerol-4 and polyglycerol-5), is POLYGLYCERIN-3.

[0040] The expression "cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising POLYGLYCERIN-x with x ranging from 3 to 10" therefore covers according to the invention a) a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-x (without solvent) and b) a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-x and aqua (water) (with solvent), in the case where the polyglycerol(s) are solubilized in a hydrophilic solvent, preferably water.

[0041] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least two cosmetic ingredients consisting of one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units and optionally a hydrophilic solvent, of distinct INCI names, chosen from the group consisting of INCI names including polyglycerin-3, polyglycerin-4, polyglycerin-6, polyglycerin-10, polyglycerin-6 and water, or polyglycerin-10 and water.

[0042] Advantageously, according to the invention, at least two cosmetic ingredients consisting of one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units will be used, said ingredients having distinct average molecular weights of at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol. The combined use of two cosmetic ingredients consisting essentially of one or more polyglycerols and having distinct average molecular weights of at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, allows for prolonged penetration into the superficial layers of the skin and / or lips, for an immediate and long-lasting effect (in particular plumping and / or smoothing).

[0043] According to a preferred mode, the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is greater by at least 100g / mol, or even by at least 200g / mol, compared to the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.

[0044] Thus, the anhydrous cosmetic composition for skincare and / or makeup for the skin and / or lips comprises, in a physiologically acceptable environment:

[0045] - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g / mol, preferably from 200 to 500g / mol,

[0046] - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol, preferably from 400 to 800g / mol,

[0047] - and possibly also a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000g / mol,

[0048] it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is greater by at least 100g / mol, or even by at least 200g / mol, compared to the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the invention comprises:

[0050] - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10,

[0051] - a second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10, distinct from the INCI name of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient,

[0052] - and possibly also a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and the second ingredient, and comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10.

[0053] For example, the anhydrous composition of the invention comprises at least one first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and one or more other cosmetic ingredients with INCI names comprising polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 and water, or polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 and water.

[0054] According to another example, the anhydrous composition of the invention comprises at least one first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 and water and one or more other cosmetic ingredients with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 and water.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the invention comprises:

[0056] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name including polyglycerin-6, or

[0057] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name including polyglycerin-10, or

[0058] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name including polyglycerin-10, or

[0059] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin, a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a third cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10.

[0060] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the anhydrous composition of the invention shall comprise a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name polyglycerin-3 and a cosmetic ingredient with INCI name polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 and water.

[0061] According to another particular and preferred mode, the anhydrous composition of the invention shall comprise a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 (and) water and a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 (and) water.

[0062] According to another particular and preferred mode, the anhydrous composition of the invention shall comprise a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-3 and a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 (and) water.

[0063] According to another particular and preferred mode, the anhydrous composition of the invention shall comprise a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-3, a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-6 (and) water and a cosmetic ingredient of INCI name polyglycerin-10 or polyglycerin-10 (and) water.

[0064] Other combinations comprising at least two cosmetic ingredients with INCI names can be made within the framework of the anhydrous compositions of the invention as illustrated in the following table 1 which describes combinations two by two (INCI name of each of the two cosmetic ingredients, symbolized by PG3 for Polyglycerin-3, PG4 for Polyglycerin-4, PG6 for Polyglycerin-6, PG10 for Polyglycerin-10):

[0065] [Tables 1] Ingredient #2 (INCI name) PG3 PG4 PG6 PG10 Ingredient #1 (INCI name) PG3 - + ++ ++ PG4 + - + ++ PG6 ++ + - ++ PG10 ++ ++ ++ -

[0066] - : non-privileged association within the scope of the invention because the difference between the The average molecular weight of polyglycerols between the two cosmetic ingredients is less than 100g / mol.

[0067] + : association according to the invention

[0068] ++ : preferred association according to the invention

[0069] Other triple combinations falling within the scope of the anhydrous compositions of the invention are easily deduced from the double combinations described in Table 1 above, with the addition of a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and second ingredients, and comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3 (PG3), polyglycerin-4 (PG4), polyglycerin-6 (PG6) or polyglycerin-10 (PG10).

[0070] As examples of polyglycerol-based cosmetic ingredients usable in anhydrous compositions according to the invention, we can mention in particular the products marketed by the company SAKAMOTO: PGL-S (INCI name: POLYGLYCERIN-3) POLYGLYCERIN 310 (INCI name: POLYGLYCERIN-4) POLYGLYCERIN-500 MB INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-6 and AQUA (WATER) POLYGLYCERIN-750 MB INCI name POLYGLYCERIN-10 and AQUA (WATER)

[0071] References marketed by the company SPIGA can also be cited: - Pure Vegetable, INCI name Polyglycerin-3 - Pure Vegetable, INCI name Polyglycerin-4 - Pure Vegetable, INCI name Polyglycerin-6 - Pure Vegetable, INCI name Polyglycerin-10

[0072] The total content of polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] In an anhydrous liquid composition according to the invention, the total content of polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units will range in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 12% by weight, or even from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] In an anhydrous solid composition according to the invention, the total content of polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units will range in particular from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 18% by weight, or even from 10 to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] According to a particular advantageous embodiment, the cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, of the highest molecular weight (corresponding to the 2nd cosmetic ingredient described above), will be present in the composition in a higher concentration than the cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, of the highest molecular weight lower (corresponding to the 1st cosmetic ingredient described above), to optimize the smoothing effect and maintain the volumizing effect over time. Fatty phase

[0076] The composition of the invention comprises a fatty phase.

[0077] The "fat phase" of the composition includes in particular oils and one or more fat phase gelling and / or structuring agents selected from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Oils

[0079] The term "oil" means a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure. Oils may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] By "hydrocarbon oil", according to the invention, we mean an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0081] By "siliconized oil", according to the invention, means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0082] Examples of silicone oils include non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, at C2 24, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain.

[0083] Preferably, hydrocarbon oils will be used.

[0084] Thus, the oily phase of the composition will generally include at least non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers in C10-C40, synthetic esters in C10-C40, fatty alcohols in C12-C26, higher fatty acids in C2-C22, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] According to a particular method, the composition may comprise oils selected from polar oils, non-polar oils, and mixtures thereof. A person skilled in the art will know how to choose the nature and quantity of each oil to obtain a stable composition with good cosmetic properties.

[0086] According to a particular mode, the composition shall comprise at least one nonpolar hydrocarbon oil.

[0087] Among the nonpolar hydrocarbon oils, one can cite linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and their mixtures.

[0088] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one nonpolar oil selected from polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, preferably hydrogenated polydecenes.

[0089] According to another particular mode, the composition shall comprise at least one polar hydrocarbon oil, in particular an ester oil.

[0090] Among the "ester oils" (polar), the following may be mentioned in particular:

[0091] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, propyl gallate; glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0092] - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0093] - synthetic esters such as RiCOOR2 formula oils in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristate 2-octyldodecyl, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

[0094] - linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70;

[0095] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0096] - C24-C28 branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters;

[0097] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one acid triglyceride(s) carboxylic(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0098] and mixtures thereof.

[0099] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises one or more ester oils selected from hydroxylated esters having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, fatty acid esters from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] The total oil content in the composition of the invention will generally range from 20 to 70% by weight, in particular from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, whether the composition of the invention is solid or fluid.

[0101] Lipophilic gelling agents

[0102] The composition of the invention may include a lipophilic gelling agent.

[0103] If it is a fluid-to-liquid composition, it will generally include at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0104] If it is a pasty or solid composition, it may include a lipophilic gelling agent.

[0105] By “lipophilic gelling agent” is meant a compound capable of gelling the oily or fatty phase of a composition.

[0106] Examples of lipophilic gelling agents include mineral lipophilic gelling agents, organic lipophilic gelling agents, polymeric or non-polymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] For the purposes of this invention, "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating motifs, preferably at least 3 repeating motifs and even better 10 repeating motifs.

[0108] As mineral lipophilic gelling agents, we can mention in particular clays possibly modified such as modified hectorites (ex: bentonites...), pyrogenated silica possibly treated hydrophobically on the surface (ex: silica silylate, Silica dimethyl silylate... ).

[0109] Examples of organic polymeric lipophilic gelling agents include, for example, polyamide-type lipophilic polycondensates, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes; sequenced copolymers of the "dibloc", "tribloc" or "radial" type, such as polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene, polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-propylene, polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-butylene), butylene / ethylene / styrene tribloc copolymer; associative polymers derived from castor oil such as the gelling agents in the EstoGel® range from PolymerExpert.

[0110] For the purposes of this invention, "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups, chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0111] According to a particular mode, the composition comprises at least one ester-terminated polyamide and / or one ester-terminated poly(ester-amides).

[0112] One example is a poly(ester-amide) with an ester ending obtained by the condensation of a C36 diacid, more particularly a dimer of hydrogenated linoleic acid (also called hydrogenated dilinoleic acid) and neopentyl glycol, onto ethylenediamine; the remaining acidic endings being esterified by stearyl alcohol (Ci8). The copolymer thus obtained is a dimeric dibenzoate copolymer of ethylenediamine bis-stearyl ethylenediamine / neopentylglycol / stearyl, with the INCI name POLYAMIDE-8. The copolymer with the INCI name POLYAMIDE-8 is, for example, marketed under the name OLEOCRAFT LP-20 by the company CRODA.

[0113] Other organic lipophilic gelling agents may also be mentioned: dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; C8-C30 fatty acid triesters and mono- or polyglyceryl; branched dextrin esters, in particular dextrin isostearate, in particular UNIFILMA HVY marketed by Chiba Flour Milling Co., sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed under the name EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB by EASTMAN, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] The total content of lipophilic gelling agent(s) in the composition of the invention, when present, will generally range from 0.5 to 15%, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight (excluding solvents) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] Pasty fat

[0116] According to a particular mode, in particular when the composition is pasty or solid, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more pasty fats.

[0117] By "pasty fat body" is meant a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0118] Examples include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, polyol(s) and diacid dimer esters of fatty acids, or of one of their esters, hydrogenated castor oil esters, jojoba esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, vegetable butters and mixtures thereof. In a particular manner, the composition shall include at least jojoba esters.

[0119] The total content of pasty fats, when present in the composition of the invention, can range from 0.5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] Waxes

[0121] In a particular manner, especially when the composition is pasty or solid, the composition will comprise one or more waxes.

[0122] On the other hand, when the composition is liquid or fluid, the composition is advantageously free of wax.

[0123] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 30°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0124] Examples include microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols having 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin such as camauba wax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax, sunflower wax, rice bran wax and mixtures thereof; copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] According to a particular and preferred method, the total wax content(s) when present in the composition of the invention will range from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] In a paste-like to solid composition, the total wax content(s) may range from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] In a fluid to liquid composition, the total wax content(s), when present, may range from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] Emulsifying surfactants

[0129] The oil phase will generally include one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants (low HLB) to stabilize the polyglycerols and any other (polar) glycols and polyols in the oil phase of the composition.

[0130] A lipophilic surfactant is defined as a surfactant with a low HLB, generally less than 8 and preferably between 3 and 6. The term HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), well known to those skilled in the art, designates the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts of molecules. The HLB value can be determined by the Griffin method defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

[0131] As lipophilic emulsifying surfactants usable in the anhydrous composition of the invention, we may mention in particular polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, glycerol and fatty acid esters, sorbitan and fatty acid esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] By 'fatty acid' in the expression esters of polyglycerol and fatty acids, means in particular C6-C30 fatty acids, especially C10-C20.

[0133] Examples include citric acid (C6), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic or isostearic acid (C18), ricinoleic acid (C18), oleic acid (C18), linoleic acid (C18), and mixtures thereof.

[0134] We can also mention wax fatty acids, such as beeswax fatty acids.

[0135] As 'polyglycerol and fatty acid esters' used according to the invention, we may mention in particular polyglycerol stearates, polyglycerol oleates such as Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, polyglycerol polyricinoleates such as Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, polyglycerol stearates or isostearates such as Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0136] We can also mention fatty acid esters of beeswax and polyglycerols such as polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.

[0137] Examples include products marketed under the following names: - OLIVEM from Aroma Zone, INCI name Polyglyceryl-4 oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, NIKKOMULESE from NIKKOL GROUP (Nikko Chemicals), INCI name Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, - S Face O-401P, Jeechem 100, NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1-OV, Hydriol® PGHO.4, Hydriol® PGO, Hydriol® PGLO.4, Hydriol® PGMO.4, DUROSOFT® PG4-O, or Protachem™ 100, INCI name Polyglyceryl-4 oleate.

[0138] Examples of 'fatty acid and sorbitan esters' usable in the invention include sorbitan olivate. OLIVEM 900 MB® is a particular example.

[0139] Examples of 'phospholipids' include lecithin.

[0140] The total content of lipophilic emulsifying surfactant(s) in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Beneficial additional ingredients

[0141] The composition of the invention may further advantageously include additional agents distinct from the polyglycerols described above and selected from the group consisting of moisturizing agents, smoothing agents, film-forming or tightening agents, antioxidants, vasodilators (particularly for the lips), fillers, colorants, and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, especially when the anhydrous composition of the invention is in fluid to liquid form, the composition of the invention will comprise one or more polyols distinct from the polyglycerols described above as a moisturizing agent, and optionally also an additional smoothing or film-forming agent.

[0142] Polyols distinct from the polyglycerols described above

[0143] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one moisturizing agent, in particular at least one polyol distinct from the polyglycerols described above.

[0144] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0145] A polyol suitable for the invention may be an alkyl-type compound, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four -OH functions.

[0146] The distinct polyol can be selected from the group consisting of sugars such as trehalose, mannitol, xylitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof and C2-C8 glycols.

[0147] Polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of an anhydrous composition according to the present invention are C2-C8 glycols.

[0148] Advantageously, the C2-C8 glycol can be chosen for example from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (or glycerin), diglycerol (or diglycerin), and mixtures thereof.

[0149] According to a particular and preferred mode, especially in the case of a liquid composition, the anhydrous composition of the invention comprises glycerol.

[0150] Thus, according to a particular and preferred method, especially for compositions in fluid form, the anhydrous composition of the invention shall further comprise at least one moisturizing agent, preferably at least one polyol distinct from the polyglycerols described above and chosen from the group consisting of C2-C8 glycols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol.

[0151] The total content of polyols, distinct from the polyglycerols described above, when present in the anhydrous composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] A person skilled in the art will adjust this content, depending on the content of the aforementioned polyglycerols already present in the composition, so that it does not affect the stability of the composition. Advantageously, the total polyol content, including the aforementioned polyglycerols, will be less than or equal to 30% by weight, and in particular less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] The composition of the invention may further include one or more additional smoothing or film-forming agents.

[0154] Additional smoothing agents

[0155] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises an additional smoothing agent. Smoothing agents make the skin and / or lips smoother by reducing irregularities in texture (e.g., fine lines and wrinkles).

[0156] Examples of 'smoothing agents' include, in particular, smoothing actives such as hyaluronic acids, collagen, peptides such as Palmitoyl tri-peptide 1, and mixtures thereof.

[0157] Additional film-forming or tensor agents (lipid-soluble film-forming polymers)

[0158] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises an additional film-forming agent or a skin surface tightening agent, in particular a film-forming polymer.

[0159] By “stressing agent” is meant an agent capable of smoothing the skin surface to reduce skin wrinkles, by a mechanical effect linked to the elastic properties of the film formed on the surface of the skin.

[0160] The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support, from a solution, dispersion or suspension of that film-forming polymer, applied to said support.

[0161] Evaporation of the solvent in which it is dispersed allows this film-forming polymer to form a film on the surface of the skin and / or lips and thus prolong the effect provided by the composition on the restoration of facial and / or lip volumes, and / or attenuation and / or filling of hollow areas of the face and / or wrinkles.

[0162] The film formed on the skin can also act as a reservoir of molecules dispersed in said film, which will gradually penetrate the superficial layers of the skin and produce the desired cosmetic effect, for example a moisturizing effect.

[0163] These film-forming polymers can be natural or synthetic.

[0164] Preferably, liposoluble polymers will be used.

[0165] Examples include: - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene copolymers, - Polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes, - sugar esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate (SAIB), - branched dextrin esters, such as dextrin isostearate, - plant resins, such as candelilla resin, and - their mixtures.

[0166] Note that some sugar esters such as SAIB are cited both as lipophilic gelling agents and film-forming agents due to their dual effect.

[0167] The total content of liposoluble film-forming polymer(s), when present in the composition of the invention, will generally range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% (as active material) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0168] Additional 'plump' effect active ingredients for lips

[0169] For the compositions of the invention intended for the lips, an additional active ingredient with a "plump" (volumizing) effect, such as a vasodilator active ingredient, may advantageously be used.

[0170] Examples include extracts of pepper, chili, mint or menthol, cinnamon, or mixtures thereof.

[0171] Charges

[0172] The term "fillers" refers to platelet-shaped, spherical, or oblong particles, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, which are insoluble and dispersed within the composition. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to provide a mattifying effect. "Blurring effect" fillers, which camouflage the skin's micro-relief and thus allow for the attenuation, through optical correction, of surface and / or color imperfections such as wrinkles, fine lines, pores, and blemishes.

[0173] The "fillers" are chosen in particular from silicas, celluloses, boron nitride, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, calcium carbonate, powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof.

[0174] In a particular manner, a silica will be used.

[0175] Colouring materials

[0176] The anhydrous composition of the invention may further comprise one or more colouring material(s).

[0177] For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. Coloring materials are conventionally chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils) and dyes (soluble in oils).

[0178] Said colouring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. According to a particular method, the colouring material(s) are notably chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments, dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] By "pigments" we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0180] Examples of "mineral pigments" include titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] Among the "organic colorants and pigments (e.g., lakes)", examples include Blue 1, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Yellow 10, Yellow 11, Red 4, Red 6, Red 7, Red 9, Red 19, Red 13, Red 17, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 30 and Red 33, Red 34, Red 36, Red 40, Green 3, Orange 4, Violet 2, carmine, Green 5, Orange 10, Green 6, Sudan red, Sudan brown, and quinoline yellow, their salts, such as a sodium or barium salt, or lakes comprising at least one of the said organic pigments, for example those bearing the names Blue 1 lake (CI 42090); Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140); Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11 Lake, Red 6 lake (CI 15850); Red 7 lake (CI 15850); Red 21 lake (CI 45380); Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28 lake (CI 45410), Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33 lake (CI 15880), Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40 lake (CI 16035), and / or their salts. "Lakes" are organic pigments comprising at least one organic colorant precipitated on an inert support (also called a "base").

[0182] The "pearlescent pigments" are, for example, selected from titanium oxide-coated mica, iron oxide-coated titanium mica, ferric blue-coated titanium mica, chromium oxide-coated titanium mica, or tin oxide-coated titanium mica; titanium mica coated with an organic pigment as described above, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0183] According to a particular method, the anhydrous cosmetic composition for skincare and / or makeup for the skin and / or lips according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0184] - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g / mol,

[0185] - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol,

[0186] - possibly in addition a third cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first and of the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000g / mol,

[0187] it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100g / mol higher, or even at least 200g / mol higher, than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient, one or more oils,

[0188] - one or more oils, one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, and

[0189] - one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, and

[0190] - one or more gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents selected from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0191] Said composition may further include additional agents selected from the group consisting of moisturizing agents such as polyols distinct from the polyglycerols described above, smoothing agents, film-forming or tightening agents, vasodilating agents (for the lips), antioxidants, fillers, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] According to the particular modes preferred, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

[0193] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name including polyglycerin-6, or

[0194] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name including polyglycerin-10, or

[0195] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name including polyglycerin-10, or

[0196] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3, a a second cosmetic ingredient with an INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6, and a third cosmetic ingredient with an INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10,

[0197] - one or more oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils,

[0198] - one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular selected from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters,

[0199] - one or more gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents selected from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, waxes and mixtures thereof, and

[0200] - possibly in addition one or more ingredients selected from glycols in C2-C8, smoothing agents, film-forming agents, vasodilating agents (especially for lips), fillers, coloring materials, and their mixtures.

[0201] Thus, according to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0202] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name including polyglycerin-6,

[0203] - one or more oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils,

[0204] - one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular selected from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters,

[0205] - one or more gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents selected from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, waxes and mixtures thereof, and

[0206] - possibly in addition one or more ingredients selected from glycols in C2-C8, smoothing agents, film-forming agents, vasodilating agents (especially for lips), fillers, coloring materials, and their mixtures.

[0207] According to another particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0208] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient with INCI name including polyglycerin-10, and

[0209] - one or more oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils,

[0210] - one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular selected from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters,

[0211] - one or more gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents selected from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, waxes and mixtures thereof, and

[0212] - possibly in addition one or more ingredients selected from glycols in C2-C8, smoothing agents, film-forming agents, vasodilating agents (especially for lips), fillers, coloring materials, and their mixtures.

[0213] According to another particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises:

[0214] - a first cosmetic ingredient with INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3, a a second cosmetic ingredient with an INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a third cosmetic ingredient with an INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, and

[0215] - one or more oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils,

[0216] - one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular selected from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters,

[0217] - one or more gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents selected from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, waxes and mixtures thereof, and

[0218] - possibly in addition one or more ingredients selected from glycols in C2-C8, smoothing agents, film-forming agents, vasodilating agents (especially for lips), fillers, coloring materials, and their mixtures. Galenic

[0219] The cosmetic composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, and / or lips.

[0220] The composition of the invention may be of a fluid to liquid or pasty to solid texture, as defined above.

[0221] According to a particular method, the anhydrous composition is a skin and / or lip care composition.

[0222] According to a particular method, the anhydrous composition is a makeup composition for the skin and / or lips.

[0223] According to a particular mode, the anhydrous composition is in a fluid to liquid form and comprises: - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g / mol, - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol, - a preferably hydrocarbon oil, in particular an ester oil, - a lipophilic emulsifying surfactant, in particular chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, - a lipophilic gelling agent, - advantageously also a C2-C8 glycol, in particular glycerol, - possibly also one or more coloring materials.

[0224] According to a particular mode, the fluid composition of the invention is in the form of a gloss, a serum, an oily gel, an oil, a liquid blush, in particular for makeup of the lips or cheeks.

[0225] In particular, it will be a lip gloss or oily gel.

[0226] In another method, it will be a liquid blush for the cheeks or a foundation fluid.

[0227] According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition of the invention is in a paste-like to solid form and comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g / mol, - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol, - one or more oils, preferably hydrocarbon-based, in particular an ester oil, - one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, - one or more gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fats, and mixtures thereof, and - possibly in addition one or more coloring agents.

[0228] According to a particular method, the solid composition is in the form of a stick, a compact powder, an eyeshadow, a blush or cheek powder, especially for makeup of the skin (e.g. eyelids, cheeks), or of the lips.

[0229] In particular, it will be a lip balm or a foundation stick.

[0230] In another way, it will be an eyeshadow or a blush.

[0231] This will include skin care, in particular anti-aging facial skin care or a makeup composition for the skin such as a smoothing foundation for facial skin.

[0232] According to another embodiment, it may be a lip treatment, in particular a smoothing and / or volumizing (plumping) lip treatment or a lip makeup composition such as a smoothing and / or volumizing (plumping) lipstick. cosmetic process

[0233] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application to the skin and / or lips of an anhydrous composition according to the invention, in particular to plump the lips, smooth the skin, restore facial and / or lip volumes, and / or reduce and / or fill hollow areas of the face and / or wrinkles.

[0234] Thus, it relates to a cosmetic process for plumping lips, smoothing the skin and / or lips, and / or restoring facial and / or lip volume, and / or reducing and / or filling hollow areas of the face and / or wrinkles, comprising the application to the skin and / or lips of an anhydrous cosmetic skincare and / or makeup composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable environment:

[0235] - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g / mol,

[0236] - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol,

[0237] - and possibly also a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and the second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000g / mol,

[0238] it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is greater by at least 100g / mol, or even by at least 200g / mol, compared to the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient.

[0239] Preferably, the anhydrous composition of the invention applied to the skin and / or lips further comprises:

[0240] - one or more oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils,

[0241] - one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants,

[0242] - one or more gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents selected from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, waxes and mixtures thereof, and

[0243] - possibly in addition one or more ingredients selected from glycols in C2-C8, smoothing agents, film-forming agents, vasodilating agents (especially for lips), fillers, coloring materials, and their mixtures.

[0244] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for plumping the lips, smoothing the skin and / or lips, and / or restoring facial and / or lip volumes, and / or reducing and / or filling hollow areas of the face and / or wrinkles, comprising the application to the skin and / or lips of an anhydrous composition as defined according to the invention.

[0245] The detailed description of the above invention describes the embodiments and anhydrous compositions intended for the implementation of the cosmetic process according to the invention.

[0246] The anhydrous composition of the invention is applied to healthy skin and / or lips, that is, skin and / or lips free from any disturbances or disorders indicative of a pathological condition (subjects who are "unhealthy," suffering from a pathology). The terms "healthy skin and / or lips" and "skin and / or lips" will be used interchangeably throughout the rest of this description.

[0247] The anhydrous composition also promotes the hydration of the skin and / or lips.

[0248] According to a particular method, the anhydrous compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects exhibiting a loss of volume in the face, in particular in the temples, cheeks and under the eyes.

[0249] According to a particular method, the anhydrous compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects with thin lips. Cosmetic use

[0250] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least:

[0251] - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having of 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g / mol, and

[0252] - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol,

[0253] as an active association in an anhydrous composition to plump the lips, smooth the skin, restore facial and / or lip volumes, and / or reduce and / or fill hollow areas of the face and / or wrinkles.

[0254] The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES

[0255] In the following examples, the following INCI-named ingredients were used: - POLYGLYCERIN-3 marketed under the name PGL-S by SAKAMOTO - POLYGLYCERIN -4 marketed under the name POLYGLYCERIN 310 by SAKAMOTO - POLYGLYCERIN -6 marketed under the name POLYGLYCERIN-500 MB by SAKAMOTO - POLYGLYCERIN -10 marketed under the name POLYGLYCERIN-750 MB by SAKAMOTO.

[0256] Example 1: Penetration kinetics of polyglycerols into the superficial layers of the skin

[0257] A prior (unpublished) study was conducted on sections of human skin examined by imaging (7T-MALDI-FTICR Mass Spectrometry Imaging (MSI)) and demonstrated the benefits of using polyglycerols or mixtures of polyglycerols in the skin. This study showed, in particular, using an imaging method, that the penetration rate of polyglycerols and the depth of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin (epidermis and superficial dermis) are influenced by the molecular weight of these compounds, i.e., the size of the glycerol chain.

[0258] In practice, it has been shown that polyglycerol-4 penetrates more rapidly but remains in the superficial dermis, compared to polyglycerol-3, which penetrates rapidly and reaches the superficial dermis very quickly. Polyglycerol-5 and -6, on the other hand, penetrate less deeply than polyglycerol-3 or polyglycerol-4.

[0259] It follows from these data that it is particularly interesting to combine polyglycerols of different molecular weights in cosmetic compositions, in particular of average molecular weights distinct from each other of at least 100g / mol, or even at least 200g / mol, to obtain an effect both on the kinetics of skin penetration and on the depth of penetration into the superficial layers of the skin.

[0260] These compounds can act at different levels of the superficial layers of the skin and more or less rapidly, and produce their effect, in particular a plumping effect of the lips or a moisturizing and / or smoothing effect by swelling or filling of the superficial layers of the skin in the hollow areas of the face and / or wrinkles, with a lasting effect thanks to controlled penetration kinetics.

[0261] Example 2: Effect of the combination according to the invention in an anhydrous composition, on the plumping effect of the lips

[0262] 2-1 Anhydrous liquid lip gloss

[0263] [Tables2] Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight Methyl hydrogenated rosinate Qsp 100 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinol ate 27.00 Polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate 11.00 Waxes and pastes 10.00 Glycerin 8.00 Jojoba esters 5.60 Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax 3.4 Polyglyceryl-10-decaisostearate 7.00 Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S MB) 2.25 Polyglycerin-6 (Polyglycerin 500MB) 0.75 Pigments and pearlescent pigments 0.40 Preservatives Qs

[0264] The composition is prepared according to the following protocol: - Phase A: Oils and oil phase gelling / structuring agents (methyl hydrogenated rosinate, Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, waxes / pastes and Polyglyceryl-10-decaisostearate) are mixed in the Rayneri equipped with a deflocculator in a water bath at 90°C; - Jojoba esters and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax are melted (phase A1) and added to glycerin and polyglycerols (phase A2), previously mixed by hand for 20 minutes; - the Al + A2 phase is then incorporated into phase A and mixed for 30 minutes; - the pigments, nacres (phase B) are mixed in part of the polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (phase C) then integrated, at room temperature (removed from the water bath) into phase A and mixed with Rayneri using a deflocculator at 350 rpm for 1 hour; - the remainder of polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (D) is added in ABC; - the composition is then placed in a cold water bath to cool the composition, agitated with a Rayneri deflocculator at 350 rpm for 30 min, then the agitation is stopped; the composition, having cooled down to 25°C, is then packaged.

[0265] The smoothing and plumping effect of the composition of the invention is evaluated on a panel of 12 volunteer lip gloss users, using the fringe projection method: a network of fringes is projected onto the area of ​​skin (lips) to be analyzed. The fringes are deformed proportionally to the contours. The acquisition system consists of a camera and a projection module. The acquisitions allow the software to reconstruct the three-dimensional profile of the explored area. The same area of ​​skin (lips) is compared before and after application of the composition according to the invention.

[0266] A significant but small lip plumping effect (particularly on the upper lip) was observed after application of the composition of the invention comprising the combination of 2 polyglycerols as defined in the invention.

[0267] 2-2 Anhydrous Smoothing Lip Stick

[0268] The combination of 2 polyglycerols as defined according to the invention has also been formulated in a stick formulation.

[0269] [Tables3] Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight Hydrogenated Polydecene Qsp 100 Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S MB) 7.50 Polyglycerin-6 and Water (Polyglycerin 500 MB containing 10% by weight of water) 7.50 Jojoba Esters 6.00 Hydrocarbon Waxes 14.00 Silica 3.00 Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate 5.00 Sorbitan Olivate 3.60 Pigments 8.00 Preservatives Qs

[0270] The composition is prepared hot (water bath 97°C) according to the following protocol: - the waxes, paste, part of the hydrogenated polydecene and the emulsifying surfactants (Polylglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan olivate) are heated to 97°C, and stirred under Rayneri at speed 100-200 rpm until homogenization (Al phase); - pigments, nacres and part of the hydrogenated polydecene (phase A2) are added to phase Al and the water bath is set to 95°C and the mixture is homogenized; - the polyglycerols (phase B) are heated separately to 95°C before mixing phase B with phase A; - then we gently add phase B to phase A (Al + A2) while hot, stirring, in a water bath at 95 °C under Rayneri 700 rpm for 10 min; - the composition is then poured at 95°C into a lipstick tube and cooled to room temperature.

[0271] When applied to the lips, this anhydrous stick provides a smoothing effect and a slight plumping effect 2 hours after application (T2h). Example 3#: Formulations

[0272] 3.1 Anhydrous lip balm

[0273] [Tables4] Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight Hydrogenated Polydecene Qs 100 Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S MB) 5 Polyglycerin-10 and water (Polyglycerin 750 MB containing 10% water) 10 Jojoba esters 6 Hydrocarbon waxes 14 Silica 3 Polyglyceryl-4 oleate 3 Sorbitan olivate 2 Pigments 8 Preservatives Qs 100

[0274] When applied to the lips, this stick provides a volumizing and smoothing effect to the lips.

[0275] 3.2 Anhydrous liquid lip gloss

[0276] [Tables5] Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight Methyl hydrogenated rosinate Qsp 100 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate 27.0 Polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate 11.0 Waxes and pastes 10.0 Glycerin 8.0 Polyglyceryl-10-decaisostearate 7.0 Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S MB) 1.0 Polyglycerin-10 and water (Polyglycerin 750 MB containing 10% water) 2.0 Pigments and pearlescent pigments 0.4% Preservatives Qs

[0277] When applied to the lips, this gloss provides a smoothing and volumizing ('plump') effect.

[0278] 3.3 Anhydrous stick foundation

[0279] [Tableauxô] PHASE Ingredients (INCI Name) % by weight A Ethylhexyl palmitate Qsp 100 A Polyamide-8 25.0 A VP / hexadecene copolymer in octyldodecano 1 5.0 A Sucrose acetate isobutyrate 5.0 A Sorbitan sesquioleate 4.0 B Coco-caprylate / caprate 3.0 B Pigments 2.4 C Silica 5.0 D Butylene glycol 5.0 D Glycerin 3.0 D 1,2-hexanediol 2.0 D Polyglycerin-3 (PGL-S MB) 2.0 D Polyglycerin-6 and water (Polyglycerin 500 MB containing 10% water) 2.0 D Polyglycerin-10 and water (Polyglycerin 750 MB containing 10% water) 2.0 D Preservatives qs

[0280] The anhydrous stick foundation is prepared according to the following protocol:

[0281] 1 / Prepare the oil phase A by heating to 85°C with moderate stirring, until obtaining a homogeneous mixture;

[0282] 2 / Prepare the pigment phase B;

[0283] 3 / Add phase B to phase A, maintaining the temperature at 85°C;

[0284] 4 / Prepare phase D, by carrying out a simple mixture, under gentle stirring;

[0285] 5 / Slowly incorporate phase D into the mixture at a temperature at least above 60°C;

[0286] 6 / Pour the mixture into suitable containers and allow the temperature.

[0287] Applied to the skin of the face, this stick foundation provides a smoothing effect and fills in hollow areas of the face, as well as wrinkles and fine lines. Facial volume is restored and the face appears younger.

Claims

1.

2. Demands Anhydrous cosmetic composition for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600g / mol, - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000g / mol, - and possibly in addition a third cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first and second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000g / mol, it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100g / mol, or even at least 200g / mol, greater than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient, characterized in that the composition comprises oils and one or more gelling and / or fat-phase structuring agents selected from lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fats, waxes and mixtures thereof. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises: - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10, - a second cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, and whose INCI name includes polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10, distinct from the INCI name of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient, - and possibly also a third cosmetic ingredient, distinct from the first and second ingredients, comprising one or more polyglycerols having 3 to 10 glycerol units, and of which The INCI name includes polyglycerin-3, or polyglycerin-4, or polyglycerin-6 or polyglycerin-10.

3. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that it comprises: - a first cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6, or - a first cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3 and a second cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, or - a first cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6 and a second cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10, or - a first cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-3, a second cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-6, and a third cosmetic ingredient of INCI name comprising polyglycerin-10.

4. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the total polyglycerol content having 3 to 10 glycerol units ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is a fluid to liquid composition.

6. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is a paste-like to solid composition.

7. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises: - one or more lipophilic emulsifying surfactants, in particular selected from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, and - optionally further one or more additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of moisturizing agents, smoothing agents, film-forming or tightening agents, antioxidants, vasodilating agents, fillers, colorants, and mixtures thereof.

8. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is a fluid or solid composition for the lips, in particular a lip plumping or volumizing composition.

9. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is a fluid or solid composition for the skin, in particular a composition for filling hollow areas of the face and / or for filling wrinkles or fine lines.

10. A cosmetic process for plumping lips, smoothing skin, restoring facial and / or lip volume, and / or reducing and / or filling hollow areas and / or wrinkles, comprising the application, on said keratinous materials, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.

11. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of at least: - a first cosmetic ingredient comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 600 g / mol, and - a second cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 300 to 1000 g / mol, - and optionally, in addition, a third cosmetic ingredient distinct from the first and second, comprising one or more polyglycerols having from 3 to 10 glycerol units, with an average molecular weight ranging from 200 to 1000 g / mol, it being understood that the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the second cosmetic ingredient is at least 100 g / mol, or even at least 200 g / mol, greater than the average molecular weight of the polyglycerols of the first cosmetic ingredient, as an active combination in an anhydrous composition for plumping the skin, smoothing the skin,to restore facial and / or lip volume, and / or to reduce and / or fill in hollow areas of the face and / or wrinkles.