COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION AND ASSOCIATED METHODS
A water-in-oil emulsion composition addresses the challenges of liquid foundations by using specific oils and polymers to achieve long-lasting, transfer-resistant, and sun-protected makeup with improved sensory perception and cost-effectiveness.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023008745
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-08-17
- Publication Date
- 2025-09-12
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-08-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing liquid foundations face challenges in providing long-lasting, transfer-resistant coverage with sun protection while maintaining an affordable cost, due to the use of high amounts of fillers and polymers affecting sensory perception and the inclusion of oily UV filters compromising durability.
A water-in-oil emulsion composition comprising volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymers, hydrophobic silica aerogel, and silicone emulsifiers, along with non-UV-screening synthetic ester oils and lipophilic liquid organic UV filters, to achieve a lightweight, buildable, and transfer-resistant makeup with sun protection.
The composition provides enhanced cosmetic properties with long-lasting coverage, transfer-resistance, and sun protection, while optimizing the use of fillers and UV filters to maintain a desirable texture and affordability.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION AND ASSOCIATED METHODS FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present disclosure relates to the field of personal care products, in particular, to makeup compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions. The present disclosure further relates to a method for making up and caring for keratinous materials, preferably the skin. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Foundation is the foundation of a makeup kit to achieve a natural and stunning appearance. Among the various foundation products, liquid foundations are widely preferred because they offer buildable coverage. A liquid foundation preferred by consumers must be lightweight, easy to apply, transfer-resistant, offer the best coverage and a long-lasting effect.
[0003] Liquid foundations that provide the best coverage with a long-lasting effect are achieved by using higher amounts of fillers and polymers. The use of such polymers / fillers tends to result in poor sensory perception upon buildup and makes the product expensive. In addition, the use of oily UV filters for additional sun protection compromises the long-lasting effect of the liquid foundation. Therefore, it is a challenge to develop a liquid foundation that provides a long-lasting effect with sun protection at an affordable cost.
[0004] Therefore, there is a need to optimize the concentration of fillers / polymers with UV filters to obtain a liquid foundation with a desirable texture, with satisfactory buildable coverage, long-lasting, which is transfer-resistant and affordable for consumers. Summary of the invention
[0005] In one aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium, said composition comprising: i) a continuous oily phase comprising: a) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; b) at least one volatile silicone oil; c) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; d) at least one hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer in a weight range of 1% to 4.9% relative to the total weight of the composition; e) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel in a weight range of 1% to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition; f) at least one silicone emulsifier having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of less than 8; and g) at least one pigment; and ii) an aqueous phase, in in which the at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from non-UV-screening synthetic ester oils, lipophilic liquid organic UV filters or mixtures thereof.
[0006] In another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a kit comprising (a) the composition as disclosed herein; (b) a container; and (c) optionally, an applicator.
[0007] In another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a method of coating keratinous material, preferably for making up and / or caring for keratinous material, preferably the skin, characterized in that said method comprises applying said composition as disclosed herein to the keratinous material, preferably the skin.
[0008] These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description and the appended claims. This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential characteristics of the claimed subject matter, nor is it intended to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter. Brief description of the drawings
[0009] The following drawings are part of this specification and are included to further illustrate aspects of the present disclosure. The disclosure may be better understood by referring to the drawings in combination with the detailed description of the specific embodiments presented herein.
[0010] [Fig. 1 A][Fig.IB][Fig.IC][Fig. 1D][Fig. 1E][Fig. 1F][Fig.IG][Fig. 1H] The Figures 1 (AH) illustrate the long-term test results of compositions applied to a sample card and dried at 37°C for 20 hours, A) C(1); B) C(2); C) C(3); D) C(4); E) C(5); F) C(6); G) C(7) and H) C(8), in accordance with one embodiment of the present disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0011] Those skilled in the art will be aware that the present disclosure is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is to be understood that the present disclosure includes all such variations and modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions, and compounds designated or indicated in this specification, individually or collectively, and any combination of one or more of such steps or features.
[0012] Definitions
[0013] For convenience, before describing the present disclosure in more detail, certain terms used in the specification and examples are defined herein. These definitions should be read in light of the remainder of the disclosure and understood as by a person skilled in the art. The terms used herein have the meanings recognized and known to those skilled in the art; however, for convenience and completeness, particular terms and their meanings are set forth below.
[0014] The terms "include" and "comprising" are used in an inclusive and open sense, meaning that additional elements may be included. It is not intended to be interpreted as "consisting solely of".
[0015] The expression "at least one" is used to mean one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0016] Throughout this specification, unless the context otherwise requires, the term "include", and variations such as "comprises" and "comprising", shall be understood to imply the inclusion of a recited element or step or group of elements or steps, but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of elements or steps.
[0017] The term "including" is used to mean "including, but not limited to." "including" and "including, but not limited to" are used interchangeably.
[0018] The term "INCI" is an abbreviation for the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the Personal Care Products Council's International Nomenclature Committee for identifying ingredients in cosmetic or personal care products.
[0019] The term "keratinous material" as used herein refers to skin and more particularly to skin of areas such as the face, cheeks, hands, body, legs and thighs, the area around the eyes and the eyelids.
[0020] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" as used herein means a medium that is compatible with the skin and / or its superficial bodily growths, has a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and does not cause unacceptable discomfort (tingling or tension) that would discourage the consumer from using this composition.
[0021] The term "water-in-oil emulsion" as used herein means a composition comprising a continuous oil phase and an aqueous phase, which are immiscible; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the continuous oil phase so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.
[0022] The term "transfer resistant" as used herein refers to the property of a composition to remain on the keratinous material to which it is applied for a long period of time.
[0023] All percentages, parts and ratios are based on the total weight of the com position of this disclosure, unless otherwise indicated. Ratios, concentrations, quantities, and other numerical data may be presented herein in a range format. It is to be understood that this range format is used solely for convenience and brevity and is to be flexibly interpreted as including not only the numerical values explicitly cited as the limits of the range, but also as including all individual numerical values or subranges encompassed within that range as if each numerical value and subrange were explicitly cited.For example, a percentage range of about 1% to 5% should be interpreted to include not only the explicitly cited limits of about 1% to about 5%, but also to include subranges, such as 2% to 3%, 3% to 4%, and so on, as well as individual quantities, including fractional quantities, within the specified ranges, such as 2.84% and 3%, for example.
[0024] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which this disclosure pertains. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, the preferred methods and materials are now described.
[0025] The present disclosure is not to be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for exemplary purposes only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and methods are clearly within the scope of the disclosure as described herein.
[0026] The present embodiments provide a composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium for coating keratinous materials. The disclosed embodiments include a composition, a kit comprising the composition, a method of coating keratinous material using said composition and a process for preparing the composition. In various embodiments herein, the composition is a liquid foundation composition having improved cosmetic properties, which addresses the disadvantages of existing liquid foundation products. Generally, liquid foundations tend to contain a higher amount of film-forming polymers to provide buildable coverage. Such high amounts of polymer have a negative impact on customers in terms of sensory aspects and purchase cost of the product.Furthermore, the use of lipophilic organic UV filters compromises the coverage provided by the polymers and results in poor durability. Therefore, the composition according to the embodiments herein is a water-in-oil emulsion composition, which provides a long-lasting coverage effect and is transfer-resistant. Furthermore, the composition provides sun protection due to . the presence of UV filters in the composition. Composition
[0027] Embodiments herein provide the composition for coating a keratinous material. The composition, according to one embodiment herein, provides a long-lasting, transfer-resistant makeup appearance. Further, the composition, according to one embodiment herein, provides enhanced benefits to the keratinous material, such as sun protection, shine, and sebum control. In one embodiment, there is provided a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium, said composition comprising i) a continuous oil phase comprising: a) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; b) at least one volatile silicone oil; c) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; d) at least one hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer; e) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel; f) at least one silicone emulsifier; and g) at least one pigment; and ii) an aqueous phase.In other embodiments, the composition further includes at least one additive selected from salts, solvents, fillers, gelling agents, preservatives or mixtures thereof.
[0028] In another embodiment, there is provided a composition comprising: i) a continuous oily phase comprising: a) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; b) at least one volatile silicone oil; c) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; d) at least one hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer in a weight range of 1% to 4.9% relative to the total weight of the composition; e) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel in a weight range of 1% to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition; f) at least one silicone emulsifier having an HLB of less than 8; and g) at least one pigment; and ii) an aqueous phase, wherein the at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from non-UV-screening synthetic ester oils, lipophilic liquid organic UV filters or mixtures thereof.
[0029] In yet another embodiment, there is provided a composition comprising: i) a continuous oily phase comprising: a) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; b) at least one volatile silicone oil; c) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; d) at least one hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer in a weight range of 1% to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition; e) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel in a weight range of 1% to 2% relative to the total weight of the composition; f) at least one silicone emulsifier having an HLB of less than 8; and g) at least one pigment; and ii) an aqueous phase, wherein the at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from non-UV-screening synthetic ester oils, lipophilic liquid organic UV filters or mixtures thereof. Continuous oil phase
[0030] The composition according to the embodiments herein comprises a continuous oily phase comprising: a) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; b) at least one volatile silicone oil; c) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; d) at least one hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer in a weight range of 1% to 4.9% relative to the total weight of the composition; e) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel in a weight range of 1% to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition; f) at least one silicone emulsifier having an HLB of less than 8; and g) at least one pigment.
[0031] The oil phase of the present disclosure is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). It is organic, comprising at least carbon and hydrogen atoms, and is immiscible in water.
[0032] The term "oil" designates a fatty substance, which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, or 105 Pa).
[0033] The total amount of oily phase of the composition of the present disclosure preferably varies from 30% to 80% by weight and, more particularly, ranges from 50% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile hydrocarbon oil
[0034] The continuous oil phase of the composition according to the embodiments herein includes at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.
[0035] The term "hydrocarbon oil" is used to denote an oil comprising primarily carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, or carboxyl functional groups.
[0036] The term "volatile oil", as used herein, means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
[0037] Non-limiting examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils which may be used in the present invention include hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), and isohexadecane, and by example oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®, C8-C16 branched esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Soit by Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in Cognis patent application DE102008012457.
[0038] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil is preferably isododecane.
[0039] The amount of volatile hydrocarbon oil in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The volatile hydrocarbon oil, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 8% to 40%, preferably in a weight range of 10% to 30%, and more preferably of 10% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile silicone oil
[0040] The oily phase of the composition according to the embodiments herein includes at least one volatile silicone oil.
[0041] The expression “silicone oil” is used to designate an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.
[0042] Examples of volatile silicone oil that may be used in the present disclosure include linear, non-cyclic volatile silicone oils, those having a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8x10 6m2 / s) and in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0043] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the volatile silicone oil is selected from volatile linear silicone oils having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 8 cSt (from 1x106 to 8x106 m2 / s), such as dimethicones, trisiloxane and dodecamethyl pentasiloxane. For example, the volatile silicone oil is dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, available as KF-96L-2CS® and DM-Fluid-2CS® by Shin Etsu, Berb-DM2® by BRB International or Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2CS® by Dow Corning.
[0044] In another embodiment of the present disclosure, the volatile silicone oil is dimethicone, which is a compound having the chemical name polydimethylsiloxane.
[0045] The amount of volatile silicone oil present in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The volatile silicone oil, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 10% to 40%, preferably in a weight range of 15% to 30%, and more preferably- initially 15% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil
[0046] The oily phase of the composition according to the embodiments herein includes at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil selected from non-UV-screening synthetic ester oils, lipophilic liquid organic UV filters or mixtures thereof.
[0047] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular non-UV-screening synthetic ester oils which may be mentioned in particular, include: • hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and squalane and their mixtures, • non-volatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20°C measured with a Rheomat RM100® viscometer from Lamy Rheology.
[0048] The term “non-volatile alkane” means a cosmetic hydrocarbon oil, which is liquid at room temperature, having in particular a vapor pressure at 20°C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) in Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of March 11, 1992: “Any organic compound having, at a temperature of 293.15 K, a vapor pressure equal to or greater than 0.01 kPa”.
[0049] Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils also include non-UV-screening synthetic ester oils such as plant-derived hydrocarbon oils, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, these chains being able to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched;These oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bancoul oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil and Limnanthes alba seed oil (INCI name: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil); or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; ; • synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain which is in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, adipate diisopropyl, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name DUB DIS by the company Stéarinerie Dubois,alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, in particular pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate (INCI name: Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate); dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, citrates, such as the ester of C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid and C1-C6 alcohols with the INCI name Triethyl Citrate, for example that sold under the name Citrofol AI Extra® by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates, such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company, and acetates; , • polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, e.g. dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetrastearate, • diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; more particularly chosen from the esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G®), phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H® or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof, • as well as mixtures of these various oils.
[0050] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, UV filters may also be mentioned. liquid lipophilic organics.
[0051] The term “liquid lipophilic organic UV filters” means any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least one UV radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 400 nm, said molecule being in liquid form at room temperature (20 - 25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and being miscible in an oily phase. The terms “liquid lipophilic organic UV filter” and “liquid organic UV screening agents” are used interchangeably throughout the present disclosure.
[0052] The liquid organic UV screening agents which can be used according to the present disclosure can be selected from • liquid lipophilic compounds [3,[3-diphenylacrylate, • liquid lipophilic compounds salicylate, • liquid lipophilic cinnamate compounds - and their mixtures. P,P-diphenylacrylate compounds
[0053] Among the liquid lipophilic organic UV screening agents which may be used according to the present disclosure, mention may be made of the liquid lipophilic alkyl [3,[3-diphenylacrylate or α-cyano-[3,[3-diphenylacrylate compounds of formula (I) below:
[0054] in which Ri to R3 can have the following meanings: • Ri and R'i, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a straight or branched chain C1-C8 alkoxy radical or a straight or branched chain C1-C4 alkyl radical; • Ri and R'i being in para or meta position; • R2 represents a straight or branched chain C1-C12 alkyl radical; • R3 represents a hydrogen atom or the CN radical.
[0055] Among the straight or branched chain C1-C8 alkoxy radicals, mention may be made, for example, of the methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, isopropoxy, n-butoxy, isobutoxy, tert-butoxy, n-amyloxy, isoamyloxy, neopentyloxy, n-hexyloxy, n-heptyloxy, n-octyloxy and 2-ethylhexyloxy radicals.
[0056] Among the straight or branched chain C1-C4 alkyl radicals, mention may be made more particularly of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl radicals.
[0057] For C1-C12 alkyl radicals, mention may be made, by way of example, in addition to those mentioned above, of n-amyl, isoamyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl, decyl and lauryl radicals.
[0058] Among the compounds of general formula (I), the following compounds are more particularly preferred: • 2-ethylhexyl a-cyano-[3,[3-diphenylacrylate or Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N539® by BASF; • ethyl a-cyano-[3,[3-diphenylacrylate such as Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35® by BASF; • 2-ethylhexyl [3,[3-diphenylacrylate; or • ethyl p,[3-di(4'-methoxyphenyl)acrylate.
[0059] Among the compounds of general formula (I), the compound 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano3,3-diphenylacrylate or octocrylene is even more particularly preferred. Salicylate compounds
[0060] Among the liquid lipophilic salicylate compounds used according to the present disclosure, mention may be made of: • Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS® by Rona / EM 15 Industries and ethylhexyl salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS® by Symrise. Ciimamate compounds
[0061] Among the liquid lipophilic cinnamate compounds which can be used according to the present disclosure, there may be mentioned: • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX® by DSM Nutritional Products, isopropyl methoxycinnamate and isoamyl methoxycinnamate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise.
[0062] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from liquid lipophilic screening agents, preferably the compound 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano3,3-diphenylacrylate or octocrylene.
[0063] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one synthetic ester, preferably isononyl isonanoate.
[0064] In another embodiment of the present disclosure, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one non-UV-screening synthetic ester oil and at least one liquid lipophilic organic UV filter, and more preferably a mixture of isononyl isononanoate and octocrylene.
[0065] The amount of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil present in the composition, depending on the embodiments herein, may vary. The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, depending on the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 5% to 25%, preferably in a weight range of 5% to 15%, and more preferably of 5% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer
[0066] The oily phase of the composition according to the embodiments herein includes at least one hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer.
[0067] The term "polymer" is used to designate a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units resulting from compounds known as monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice and, preferably, at least three times.
[0068] According to the present disclosure, the term "hydrophobic film-forming polymer" is used to designate a film-forming polymer which lacks affinity for water and, as such, which is not suitable for formulation as a solute in an aqueous medium. In particular, the term "hydrophobic polymer" is used to designate a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 1% by weight.
[0069] The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratinous materials, preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film, the cohesion and mechanical properties of which are such that said film can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example when said film is prepared by pouring it onto a non-adhesive surface, such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.
[0070] In particular, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a polymer selected from the group consisting of film-forming polymers which are soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the medium.
[0071] As used herein, "silicone film-forming polymer" refers to a film-forming agent that contains silicone. In one or more embodiments, a "silicone-containing film-forming agent" includes polymers that contain at least about 2.5%, 5%, 10%, 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%, or 99% silicone by weight of the silicone film-forming polymer.
[0072] Mention may in particular be made, as hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer of silicone resins; vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer; silicone-acrylate copolymers; copolymers of silicone polyamide and hydrocarbon polyamide, or mixtures thereof. I. SILICONE RESINS
[0073] The term "resin" is used to denote a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. The terms "silicone resins" and "siloxane resins" are used interchangeably herein. Thus, for the purposes of this disclosure, polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
[0074] The nomenclature for silicone resins (also referred to as siloxane resins) is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described in terms of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.
[0075] The letter “M” represents the monofunctional unit of formula RiR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
[0076] The letter “D” denotes a difunctional unit RiR2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
[0077] The letter “T” represents a trifunctional unit of formula RiSiO3 / 2.
[0078] These resins are described, for example, in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265 to 270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302,685 and US 4,935,484.
[0079] In the units M, D and T defined above, R, namely R1 and R2, represents a hydrocarbon radical (in particular an alkyl radical) comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group.
[0080] Finally, the letter Q denotes a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is linked to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.
[0081] Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomer (or units), the nature and number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the pendant chains.
[0082] As silicone resins which can be used in the compositions according to the present disclosure, for example, MQ type, T type or MQT type silicone resins can be used.
[0083] As examples of MQ type silicone resins, mention may be made of alkylsiloxy-silicates of formula [(Rl)3SiOl / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are whole numbers between 50 and 80, and such that the group RI represents a radical as defined above, and is preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.
[0084] Examples of solid silicone resins of the MQ type of trimethylsiloxysilicate type include those sold under the reference SR1000® by General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by Wacker and under the names KF-7312®J by Shin-Etsu and DC 749® and DC 593® by Dow Corning.
[0085] Mention may also be made, as silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyl-dimethyl siloxysilicate (Silshine 151® sold by General Electric). The preparation of these resins is described in particular in US patent 5,817,302. T Resins
[0086] Examples of T-type silicone resins that may be mentioned are polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO3 / 2 )x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes possibly further comprising Si-OH terminal groups.
[0087] Preferably, polymethylsilsesquioxane resins may be used in which R represents a methyl group, such as, for example, those sold: • by Wacker under the reference Resin MK®, such as Belsil PMS MK®: polymer comprising CH3SiO3 / 2 repeating units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3)2SiO2 / 2 (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000 g / mol, or • by Shin-Etsu under the reference KR-220L® which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO3 / 2 and contain Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A® which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of D dimethyl units and contain Si-OH end groups, or also under the reference KR-251®, comprising 88% of T units and 12% of D dimethyl units and contains Si-OH end groups. MQT resins
[0088] The resins comprising MQT units which are known in particular are those mentioned in document US 5,110,890.
[0089] A preferred form of MQT type resins is MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). These resins which can be used in the compositions according to the present disclosure are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005 / 075542.
[0090] The MQT-propyl resin preferably comprises the following units:
[0091] (i) (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a;
[0092] (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2)b;
[0093] (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c ; and
[0094] (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d ;
[0095] with:
[0096] RI, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, • a being between 0.05 and 0.5, • b being between zero and 0.3, • c being greater than zero, • d being between 0.05 and 0.6, • a + b + c + d = 1, and a, b, c and d being molar fractions, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[0097] Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the following units:
[0098] (i) (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a ;
[0099] (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c ; and
[0100] (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d ;
[0101] with: • RI and R3 independently representing an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, RI preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably a propyl group, • a being between 0.05 and 0.5 and preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, • c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, • d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 or also between 0.2 and 0.55, • a + b + c + d = leta, b, cetd being molar fractions, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.
[0102] The siloxane resins usable according to the disclosure may be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of:
[0103] A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of (Rl3 SiOi / 2)a and (SiO 4 / 2)d units; with • RI representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, • a and d being greater than zero, • the a / d ratio being between 0.5 and 1.5;
[0104] and of:
[0105] B) a T-propyl resin comprising at least 80 mol% of (R3SiO3 / 2)c units; with • R3 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, • c being greater than zero, provided that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups, where the weight ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85 and preferably the weight ratio A / B is 30:70.
[0106] Advantageously, the weight ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85. Preferably, the ratio A / B is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have proven to allow comfortable deposits due to the absence of percolation of the rigid particles of MQ resin into the deposit.
[0107] Thus, preferably, the silicone resin is chosen from MQ type resins, chosen in particular from i. alkylsiloxysilicates, which may be trimethylsiloxysilicates, of formula [Rl3SiOi / 2]x (SiO4 / 2)y, in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group RI represents a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, and is preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group, and ii. phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
[0108] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the composition comprises a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin, such as those sold under the reference Silsoft 74® by Momentive Performance Materials, SR1000® by General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by Wacker and under the names KF-7312®J by Shin-Etsu and DC 749® and DC 593® by Dow Corning. Silsesquioxane resins
[0109] Among the silsesquioxane resins that can be used in the compositions according to the present disclosure, mention may be made of alkylsilsesquioxane resins which are silsesquioxane homopolymers and / or copolymers having an average siloxane unit of formula RlnSiO(4n) / 2, where each RI independently denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C10 alkyl group, where more than 80 mol% of the radicals RI represent a C3-Cio alkyl group, and n is a number from 1.0 to 1.4, and more particularly, a silsesquioxane copolymer in which more than 60 mol% comprises RlSiO3 / 2 units in which RI has the definition indicated above will be used.
[0110] Preferably, the silsesquioxane resin is chosen so that RI is a C1-C10 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group and more particularly a propyl group. More particularly, a polypropylsilsesquioxane or a t-propylsilsesquioxane resin (INCI name: polypropylsilsesquioxane (et) iso-dodecane) will be used, such as the product sold under the trade name Dow Corning® 670 Fluid by Dow Corning. [YES] II. VINYL POLYMERS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE UNIT DERIVED FROM A CARBOSILOXANE DENDRIMER
[0112] The hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer may also be chosen from vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer.
[0113] The vinyl polymer(s) in particular have(s) a backbone and at least one side chain, wherein the side chain comprises a unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure. The carbosiloxane dendrimer unit is as described in applications WO03 / 045337 and EP 963 751 from Dow Corning.
[0114] In the context of the present invention, the term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" represents a molecular structure having branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure having a high regularity in the radial direction from the bond to the backbone. These carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described as a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer.
[0115] A vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer has a side molecular chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure and may result from the polymerization of: • 0.1 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; and • 99.9 to 0.1 parts by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing a organic group polymerizable by radicals, represented by the general formula:
[0116] in which Y represents an organic group polymerizable by radicals,
[0117] R1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 atoms of carbon, and X* represents a silylalkyl group which, when i = 1, is represented by the formula: X' - —Si----—O----Si — X1*1 R'
[0118] wherein R1 is as defined above, R2 represents an alkylene group having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R3 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, Xi+1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group, or the silylalkyl group as defined above with i = i + 1; i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl group, and a' is an integer from 0 to 3; wherein said one organic group polymerizable by radicals contained in component (A) is chosen from: organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group and which are represented by the following formulas: Ï CH2 C—'C~ O----------R5—
[0119] and CHs-€..........C—NH-.....R*—
[0120] in which R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R5 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and organic groups containing a styryl group and which are represented by the following formula:
[0121] in which R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R7 represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R8 represents an alkylene group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4 and ca has the value 0 or 1, so that, if c is 0, • (R8 )c- represents a bond.
[0122] The vinyl-type monomer which is component (A) in the vinyl polymer is a vinyl-type monomer which contains radically polymerizable vinyl groups.
[0123] There is no particular limitation to this type of monomer.
[0124] Examples of this vinyl-type monomer include: methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, or a lower alkyl analog methacrylate; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-hexyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, or a higher analog methacrylate; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate or a vinyl ester of a lower fatty acid analog; vinyl caproacrylate, vinyl caproacrylate, vinyl ethylethylhexoacrylate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, or an ester of a fatty acid analog higher; styrene, vinyltotolutoluene, benzyl acrylate, vinyl phosphatidylcholine, vinylethylethylethyl, vinylylhydroxylone or a similar monopolymer; methacrylamide, N-methylol-imethacrylamide, N-methoxy-imethacrylamide, isobutoxy-imethoxy-methacrylamide, N,N-dimethyl-imethacrylamide or similar vinyl-type monomers containing amide groups; hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate or similar vinyl-type monomers containing hydroxyl groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid or similar vinyl-type monomers containing a carboxylic acid group;tetrahydrofuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl, cetyl ether, 2-ethylethylethyl vinyl ether, or a similar vinyl-type monomer with oxide; methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane containing a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styrene group on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt and an alkali salt of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid;a radically polymerizable unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group containing a sulfonic acid such as styrene sulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt, such as 2-hydroxyhydroxyhydroxyhydroxy-methacryloxy-propylpropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and a methacrylic acid ester containing a tertiary amine group, such as diethylamine methacrylic acid ester. Multifunctional vinyl-type monomers may also be used. ;
[0125] The following are examples of such compounds: trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythrityl trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropane trioxyethylmethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate, polydimethylsiloxane capped with styryl groups having divinylbenzene groups at both ends, or analogous silicone compounds having unsaturated groups.
[0126] To facilitate the preparation of a mixture of the raw material for cosmetic products, the number average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer which contains a carbosiloxane dendrimer may be selected from the range of 3000 g / mol to 2,000,000 g / mol and preferably 5000 g / mol to 800,000 g / mol. It may be a liquid, gum, paste, solid, powder or any other form. Preferred forms are solutions formed by diluting a dispersion or powder in solvents, such as silicone oil or an organic oil.
[0127] A vinyl polymer contained in the dispersion, or solution may have a concentration in a range of between 0.1% and 95% by weight and preferably between 5% and 70% by weight. However, for ease of handling and preparation of the mixture, the range should preferably be between 10% and 60% by weight.
[0128] According to a preferred form, a vinyl polymer suitable for the present disclosure may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751.
[0129] According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can result from the polymerization: • from 0.1 to 99.9 parts by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate monomer(s); and • from 99.9 to 0.1 parts by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a tris[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropylcarbosiloxane dendrimer.
[0130] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer may comprise a unit derived from a tris[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer corresponding to one of the formulas below.
[0131] According to a preferred form, a vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer used in the present disclosure comprises at least one butyl acrylate monomer.
[0132] According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer may further comprise at least one fluorinated organic group. A fluorinated vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application WO 03 / 045337.
[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, a grafted vinyl polymer within the meaning of the present disclosure may be carried in an oil or a mixture of oils, which is / are preferably volatile, chosen in particular from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures.
[0134] Vinyl polymers grafted with at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer which may be particularly suitable for the present disclosure are the polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100®, TIB 4-101®, TIB 4-120®, TIB 4-130®, TIB 4-200®, FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4-202®), TIB 4-220® and FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4-230®) by Dow Corning. Preferably, the polymers sold under the names FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4-202) and FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4-230®) by Dow Corning will be used.
[0135] Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer which can be used in a composition of the present disclosure is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer of INCI name: acrylates / polytrimethyl siloxymethacrylate copolymer, in particular which is sold in isododecane under the name Dow Corning FA 4002 ID® Silicone Acrylate by Dow Corning. III. SILICONE ACRYLATE COPOLYMERS
[0136] According to a specific embodiment, a composition used according to the present disclosure may comprise, as a hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer, at least one copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.
[0137] By "copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" is meant, in the present disclosure, a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more carboxylic monomers (acid or ester), and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.
[0138] In the present disclosure, the term "carboxylic monomer" refers to both carboxylic acid monomers and carboxylic acid ester monomers. Thus, monomer (a) may be selected, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, their esters and mixtures of these monomers.
[0139] Mention may be made, as esters, of the following monomers: acrylate, methacrylate, maleate, fumarate, itaconate and / or crotonate. According to a preferred embodiment of the present disclosure, the monomers in the form of esters are more particularly chosen from linear or branched alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, preferably C1-C24 and, more preferably, C1-C22, the alkyl radical being preferentially chosen from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl and 2-ethylhexyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.
[0140] Thus, according to a specific embodiment of the present disclosure, the copolymer comprises, as carboxylate groups, at least one group selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl or 2-ethylhexyl acrylate or methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0141] In the present disclosure, the term "polydimethylsiloxanes" (also called organopolysiloxanes or, abbreviated to PDMS) means, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer having a linear structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms comprising methyl radicals directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms.The PDMS chains that can be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the present disclosure comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, i.e. the PDMS may have, for example, a polymerizable radical group at both ends of the chain or have a polymerizable radical group at one end of the chain and a trimethylsilyl end group at the other end of the chain. The polymerizable radical group may in particular be an acrylic or methacrylic group, in particular a CH2=CRi-CO-O-R2j group where Ri represents a hydrogen or a methyl group and R2 represents -CH2 -, -(CH2 )n- with n = 3, 5, 8 or 10, -CH2 -CH(CH3)-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2 -, -CH2-CH2-O-CH2 -CH2 -CH(CH3 )-CH2 -, -CH2-CH2-O-CH2 or -CH2-O-CH2-CH2 -ch2-, .
[0142] The copolymers used in the composition of the present disclosure are generally obtained according to the usual polymerization and grafting processes, for example by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one radically polymerizable group (for example on one of the ends of the chain or at both ends) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described, for example, in documents US-A-5,061,481 and US-A-5,219,560.
[0143] The copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from approximately 3,000 g / mol to 200,000 g / mol and preferably from about 5,000 g / mol to 100,000 g / mol.
[0144] The copolymer used in the composition of the present disclosure may be provided as such or in dispersed form in a solvent, such as lower alcohols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for example isopropyl alcohol, or oils, for example volatile cyclic silicone oils (for example cyclopentasiloxane).
[0145] Examples of copolymers that can be used in the composition of the present disclosure include, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate having polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate having polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate having polydimethylsiloxane grafts, or copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, and stearyl methacrylate having polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Examples of copolymers that can be used in the composition of the present disclosure include, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate having polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate and butyl methacrylate. used in the composition of the present disclosure, the copolymers sold by Shin-Etsu under the names KP-561® (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541®, where the copolymer is dispersed at 60% by weight in isopropyl alcohol (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), and KP-545®, where the copolymer is dispersed at 30% in cyclopentasiloxane (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane).
[0146] According to a preferred embodiment of the present disclosure, KP561® is preferably used; this copolymer is not dispersed in a solvent but is provided in waxy form, its melting point being about 30°C.
[0147] Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid copolymer grafted with polydimethylsiloxane dissolved in isododecane sold by Shin-Etsu under the name KP-550®.
[0148] According to a particularly preferred form, a composition according to the present disclosure comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin, such as those sold under the reference SR1000® by General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by Wacker and under the names KF-7312® J by Shin-Etsu and DC 749® and DC 593® by Dow Corning. IV. SILICONE POLYAMIDE COPOLYMERS
[0149] Silicone polyamides and their copolymers are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0150] The silicone polyamides of the composition of the present disclosure may be polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type, for example those described in documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680. According to the present disclosure, the silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:
[0151] (1) polyorganosiloxanes including at least two amide groups, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or (2) polyorganosiloxanes including at least two amide groups, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
[0152] A) According to the first variant, the silicone polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above in which the units capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are located in the polymer chain.
[0153] The silicone polymers may more particularly be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the general formula (I): [—SiO—hïT'^--------G ~f”~ (!) l R« jn
[0154] in which: G' represents C(O) when G represents -C(O)-NH-Y-NH-, and G' represents -NH- when G represents -NH-C(O)-YC(O)-, R4, R5, R6 and R7, which may be the same or different, represent a group chosen from: saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic C1 to C40 hydrocarbon groups, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted by fluorine atoms, C6 to C10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C1 to C4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains optionally containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, the X groups, which may be the same or different, represent a linear C1 to C30 alkylenediyl group or branched, optionally containing in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms, Y is an alkylene, arylene group,linear or branched divalent saturated or unsaturated C1-C50 cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, which may include one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or may bear as a substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C3-C8 cycloalkyl, C1-C40 alkyl, C5-C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted by one to three C1-C3 alkyl, C1-C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1-C6 aminoalkyl groups, or Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: ,
[0155] in which T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, trivalent C3 to C24 or tetravalent hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and optionally containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and R8 represents a linear or branched C1-C50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, optionally comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfamide groups, which may optionally be linked to another chain of the polymer, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200. Preferably, m is an integer ranging from 50 to 150.
[0156] According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, 80% of the R4, R5, R6 and R7 groups of the polymer are preferably selected from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. According to another embodiment, 80% of the R4, R5, R6 and R7 groups of the polymer are methyl groups.
[0157] According to the present disclosure, Y may represent various divalent groups, further optionally including one or two free valencies to link with other units of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group selected from: linear C1 to C20 alkylene groups and preferably C1 to C10 alkylene groups, branched C30 to C56 alkylene groups optionally comprising rings and non-conjugated unsaturations, C5-C6 cycloalkylene groups, phenylene groups optionally substituted by one or more C1 to C40 alkyl groups, C1 to C20 alkylene groups including from 1 to 5 amide groups, C1 to C20 alkylene groups including one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, C3 to C8 cycloalkane, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1 to C6 alkylamine groups, polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:
[0159] wherein R4, R5, R6, R7, T and m are as defined above.
[0160] According to the second variant, the polyorganosiloxanes may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to formula (II): rr:? (ii) If...........O...................7- If..............G................ s; m :. tin
[0161] in which R4 and R6, which may be the same or different, are as defined above for formula (I), R10represents a group as defined above for R4 and R6, or represents a group of formula -XG-R12 in which X and G are as defined above for formula (I) and R12 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C50 hydrocarbon group optionally including in its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms and / or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups, R11 represents a group of formula -XG-R12 in which X, G and R12 are as defined above, ml is an integer ranging from 1 to 998 and m2 is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.
[0162] According to the present disclosure, the silicone polymer used as structuring agent may be a homopolymer, i.e. a polymer comprising several identical units, in particular units of formula (I) or formula (II).
[0163] According to the present disclosure, it is also possible to use a silicone polymer formed from a copolymer including several different units of formula (I), i.e. a polymer in which at least one of the groups R4, R5, R6, R7, X, G, Y, m and n is different in one of the units.
[0164] The copolymer may also be formed from several units of formula (II), in which at least one of the elements R4, R6, R10, R11, mi and m2 is different in at least one of the units.
[0165] It is also possible to use a polymer including at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II), the units of formula (I) and the units of formula (II) being optionally identical or different from each other.
[0166] According to one embodiment of the present disclosure, it is also possible to use a polymer further comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, chosen from ester, amide, sulfamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof.
[0167] These copolymers can be block or graft polymers.
[0168] According to an advantageous embodiment of the present disclosure, the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are amide groups of formulas -C(O)NH- and -HN-C(O)-.
[0169] The amount of hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer present in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The hydrophobic silica aerogel, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 1% to 4.9%, preferably in a weight range of 1% to 4%, and more preferably from 1% to 3% relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophobic silica aerogel
[0170] The oily phase of the composition according to the embodiments herein includes at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel.
[0171] The term "aerogels" refers to ultralight porous materials, first produced by Kristler in 1932.
[0172] The term "hydrophobic silica" refers to both pure hydrophobic silicas and particles fully or partially coated with hydrophobic silica.
[0173] According to the embodiments herein, the hydrophobic silicas are preferably amorphous and of sublimed origin. They are preferably provided in powder form.
[0174] Amorphous hydrophobic silicas of fumed origin are generally obtained from hydrophilic fumed silicas. Hydrophilic fumed silicas are obtained by pyrolysis of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl4) in a continuous flame at 1000 °C in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are then made hydrophobic, for example by treatment with halogenated silanes, alkoxysilanes or silazanes. Hydrophobic silicas differ from the starting hydrophilic silicas, among other things, by a lower density of silanol groups and by a smaller adsorption of water vapor.
[0175] The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating the sublimed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane, or dimethylsilyloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating the sublimed silica in the presence of dimethyldichlorosilane.
[0176] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the composition comprises hydrophobically treated fumed silicas, also referred to as hydrophobic silica aerogel.
[0177] In another embodiment of the present disclosure, the hydrophobic silica aerogel is preferably silylated silica aerogel particles (INCI name: Silica Silylate).
[0178] It will also be possible to use hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, namely trimethylsiloxylated silica particles.
[0179] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used in the present disclosure preferably have a size, expressed as average diameter (D[0.5]), of less than 1500 pm, and preferably in a range of 1 pm to 30 pm, more preferably of 2 pm to 25 pm, more preferably of 2 pm to 20 pm and still more preferably of 2 pm to 15 pm.
[0180] Mention may preferably be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270® (INCI name: Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 m2 / g to 800 m2 / g.
[0181] As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the present disclosure, we can also mention the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260® (INCI name: Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 m2 / g to 800 m2 / g.
[0182] As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the present disclosure, we can also mention the aerogels sold by the Cabot company under the references Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201® and Aerogel TLD 203®, Enova Aerogel MT 1100® and Enova Aerogel MT 1200, as well as the references Airlica TL3® and Airlica TL5® sold by the Toyukama company.
[0183] The amount of hydrophobic silica aerogel present in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The hydrophobic silica aerogel, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 1% to 5%, preferably in a weight range of 1% to 3%, and more preferably of 1% to 2% relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicone emulsifier
[0184] The oil phase of the composition according to the embodiments herein includes at least one silicone emulsifier having an HLB of less than 8.
[0185] The term "silicone emulsifier" is used to refer to a compound that stabilizes the silicone-rich oil phase of water-in-oil emulsions. Furthermore, silicone emulsifiers are amphiphilic, i.e., they have two parts of different polarity. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Silicone emulsifiers are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value, HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System. A time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (Published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For silicone emulsifiers, HLB is generally less than 8, should be between 3 and 8 for the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions.The HLB of the emulsifier(s) used according to the present disclosure may be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.
[0186] According to embodiments herein, the silicone emulsifiers are selected from polyether, polyglycerin-modified silicones, silicone elastomers or mixtures thereof.
[0187] Examples of polyether include polyalkylene glycols, preferably polyethylene glycols.
[0188] Examples of silicone emulsifiers include silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyols, such as those with the INCI name dimethicone (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone sold under the trademark X-22-6711D® by Shin-Etsu, the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C® by Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning; a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90® by Evonik Goldschmidt company, and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and hexyl laurate, sold under the name Abil WE 09® by Goldschmidt company.
[0189] One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added thereto, which may advantageously be chosen from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters. Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifiers, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars. As polyol alkyl esters, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxy stearate, such as the product sold under the name Cithrol DPHS-SO-(MV) by the company Croda.
[0190] Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters include polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, the diester of a mixture of isostearic, polyhydroxystearic and sebacic acids with polyglycerin-4 (INCI name: polyglycery diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate), such as the product sold under the name Isolan GPS ® by the company Evonik, and mixtures thereof.
[0191] In certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the silicone emulsifiers may be selected from emulsifying silicone elastomers.
[0192] The term "silicone elastomer" refers to a flexible and deformable organopolysiloxane which has viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has limited extensibility and contractibility. This material is capable of returning to its initial shape after stretching. The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, or mixtures thereof. a. Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers
[0193] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a polyoxyalkylenated containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.
[0194] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (Bl) of polyoxyalkylenated containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (C1) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in US patents 5,236,986 and US 5,412,004.
[0195] In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) terminated with dimethylvinylsiloxy and methylhydropolysiloxane terminated with trimethylsiloxy, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0196] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (Al) may be alkyl groups containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
[0197] The compound (Al) can therefore be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methyl hydro polysiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethyl siloxane / methyl hydrosiloxane copolymers, cyclic dimethyl siloxane / methyl hydrosiloxane copolymers and dimethyl siloxane / methyl hydrosiloxane / laurylmethyl siloxane copolymers terminated by trimethyl siloxy.
[0198] Compound (Cl) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chosen from chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
[0199] Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers can be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenated compounds containing at least two vinyl groups, reacting with the Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.
[0200] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer according to the present disclosure is preferably blended with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylenated elastomer may take the form of non-spherical particles. The polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in US Patents 5,236,986, US 5,412,004, US 5,837,793, and US 5,811,487.
[0201] Examples of polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers include those having the following INCI names: dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15-crosspolymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl di-methicone crosspolymer, PEG-10 / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, PEG-12 di-methicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 dimethicone crosspolymer, PEG-10 dimethicone / Vinyldimethicone crosspolymer, PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0202] They are notably sold under the names KSG® by the company Shin-Etsu: KSG-210® (INCI name: dimethicone and dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15-crosspolymer; INCI name KSG-310®: PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer and ore oil; name KSG- 320® INCI: PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer and isododecane; name KSG-330® INCI: PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer and triethylhexanoin; name KSG-340® INCI: squalane and PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer.
[0203] They are notably sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 9011 Silicone Elastomer Blend ®; INCI name: cyclopentasiloxane and PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer.
[0204] Mention may also be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning EL7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend ® by the company Dow Corning for the compound which has the INCI name: PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 crosspolymer. Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers
[0205] Polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and polyglycerolated compounds containing ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
[0206] Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of (A) diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) glycerolated compounds containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence of (C) a platinum catalyst.
[0207] In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reacting a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerolated compound and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst. Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
[0208] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a straight-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
[0209] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular so as to be easily miscible with compound (B).
[0210] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and hydrocarbon groups mo substituted organic groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is selected from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.
[0211] Compound (A) may therefore be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxyl / methylhydrosiloxane-terminated dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxyl / methylhydrosiloxane / laurylmethylsiloxane-terminated dimethylsiloxane copolymers.
[0212] Compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to formula (B1) below:
[0213] CmH2m lO-[Gly]n-CmH2m l(B')
[0214] in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferentially from 2 to 50, more preferentially from 2 to 20, always more preferentially from 2 to 10, and always more preferentially from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3; and Gly denotes: -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O- or -CH2 -CH(CH2OH)-O.
[0215] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 4.
[0216] It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is in the range of 1:1 to 20:1.
[0217] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
[0218] The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, and more preferably 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
[0219] The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the present disclosure is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil to form a gel.
[0220] In these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
[0221] These elastomers are described in particular in patent application WO 2004 / 024798.
[0222] The compounds that can be used as polyglycerolated silicone elastomers are: following having the INCI name: dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, lauryl di-methicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, and their mixtures.
[0223] They are notably sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the following names: KSG-710®; INCI name: dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer and dimethicone; KSG-810®; INCI name: Mineral Oil and Lauryl dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer; KSG-820®; INCI name: isododecane and lauryl dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer; KSG-830®; INCI name: triethylhexanoin and lauryl dimethicone / poly-glycerin-3 crosspolymer; KSG-840®; INCI name: squalane and lauryl dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer.
[0224] In one embodiment, the silicone emulsifiers are preferably selected from cetyl polyethylene glycol (PEG) / polypropylene glycol (PPG)-10 / 1 dimethicone, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-20, or mixtures thereof; more preferably, it is a combination of cetyl polyethylene glycol (PEG) / polypropylene glycol (PPG)-10 / 1 dimethicone, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, PEG-10 dimethicone and PEG-20.
[0225] The amount of silicone emulsifier in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The silicone emulsifier, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 5% to 30%, preferably in a weight range of 8% to 15%, and more preferably 8% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigment
[0226] The oily phase of the composition according to the embodiments herein includes at least one pigment.
[0227] The term “pigments” is used to designate white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.
[0228] The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments or mixtures thereof.
[0229] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the pigment is chosen from mineral pigments.
[0230] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment as defined in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments suitable for use in the present disclosure include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. Mineral pigments, such as that Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 mixed with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS can also be used in the composition of the present disclosure.
[0231] The size of the pigment suitable for use in the present disclosure is generally in a range of 0.1 pm to 10 pm, preferably in a range of 0.2 pm to 5 pm, more preferably in a range of 0.3 pm to 1 pm.
[0232] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the pigments have a size characterized by a D
[50] in a range of 0.1 pm to 10 pm, preferably in a range of 0.2 pm to 5 pm, more preferably in a range of 0.3 pm to 1 pm.
[0233] D
[50] refers to the median particle size and represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles present.
[0234] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.
[0235] In one or more embodiments of the present disclosure, the pigments may be coated with at least one compound selected from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl tristearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; silicone surfactants such as organopolysiloxanes, alkylalkoxysilanes such as triethoxycaprylylsilane; fluorinated surfactants such as perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups; fluorosilicone surfactants such as perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes;and their mixtures. ;
[0236] In another embodiment of the present disclosure, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid or a salt thereof, which may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. Salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium salts.
[0237] In yet another embodiment of the present disclosure, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, preferably a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, more preferably a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.
[0238] Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI.
[0239] According to the embodiments herein, the pigments may be coated with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the commercial reference BWB0-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BWR0-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.
[0240] The pigments that can be used according to the present disclosure can also be organic pigments.
[0241] The term "organic pigment" means any pigment meeting the definition of Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone.
[0242] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, and 71105, the red pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 12085, CI 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470,and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described, for example, in French patent No. 2679 771.,
[0243] These pigments can also take the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.
[0244] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" is used to designate insolubilized tints adsorbed on insoluble particles; the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0245] Examples of inorganic substrates onto which dyes are adsorbed are alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate.
[0246] Organic dyes include cochineal carmine. Other products known as: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 1 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).
[0247] Examples of lakes include the product known as D&C red 7 (CI 15850:1).
[0248] The pearlescent materials may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0249] Preferably, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises at least one mineral-type pigment, in particular chosen from metal oxides, and more particularly chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, more preferably chosen from titanium dioxides comprising a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, iron oxides comprising a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, and mixtures thereof,
[0250] More particularly, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises at least one pigment chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides and mixtures thereof, said metal oxides being coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, in particular a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.
[0251] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the pigment is preferably selected from anatase titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (hydrophobic), yellow iron oxide treated with disodium stearoyl glutamate (hydrophobic), red iron oxide treated with disodium stearoyl glutamate (hydrophobic), black iron oxide treated with disodium stearoyl glutamate (hydrophobic) or mixtures thereof.
[0252] The amount of pigment in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The pigment, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 4% to 25%, preferably in a weight range of 7% to 15%, and more preferably of 8% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
[0253] The composition according to the embodiments herein comprises an aqueous phase.
[0254] The term “aqueous phase” means a phase containing water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients.
[0255] The aqueous phase comprises water.
[0256] The aqueous phase comprises water in a weight range of 20% to 70%, preferably in a weight range of 25% to 50%, and more preferably in a weight range of 28% to 32% relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic compositions
[0257] The present disclosure also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.
[0258] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged. Additives
[0259] The compositions according to the present disclosure may further comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products such as: • fillers; • gelling agents; • conservatives; • solvents; • salts; • and their mixtures.
[0260] It is understood that a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and / or their amount such that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the disclosure are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the contemplated addition. All such embodiments, comprising the optional additives, are understood to be within the scope of the present disclosure. Charges
[0261] The composition, according to the embodiments herein, includes at least one filler, other than hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, which provides additional properties of matting, coverage, staying power and / or improved stability.
[0262] The term "filler" is used to designate colorless or white, solid particles of any shape, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
[0263] The fillers can be inorganic or organic.
[0264] According to the embodiments herein, the fillers are preferably chosen from natural fillers or fillers of natural origin.
[0265] The term "natural filler" means a compound obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, through, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.
[0266] The term "filler of natural origin" means a natural compound which has undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or of a compound mainly comprising transformed or untransformed natural constituents. As a non-limiting example of chemical or industrial treatment resulting in modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by control organizations such as Ecocert (Standards for organic and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toileries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.
[0267] In certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the fillers used may be lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous, or any other intermediate shape between these defined shapes.
[0268] In certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the fillers may or may not be surface coated, and in particular they may be surface treated with amino acids, or any other substance, which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
[0269] Mineral fillers
[0270] According to the embodiments herein, examples of mineral fillers include, but are not limited to, talc, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium and magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass, perlite or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® range marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass.
[0271] Organic charges
[0272] Examples of organic fillers include, but are not limited to, natural micronized waxes; metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, cellulose powders such as those marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.
[0273] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the filler is a mineral filler, preferably chosen from talcs.
[0274] The quantity of fillers present in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The additional filler, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 1% to 10%, preferably in a weight range of 5% to 8%, and more preferably 7% to 8% relative to the total weight of the composition. Gelling agents
[0275] The composition, according to the embodiments herein, includes one or more hydrophilic gelling agents, namely: water soluble or water dispersible and / or one or more lipophilic agents, namely: oil soluble or oil dispersible gelling agents, which provide the desired viscosity to the composition.
[0276] The hydrophilic gelling agents and / or the lipophilic gelling agents are preferably chosen from natural gelling agents or from gelling agents of natural origin.
[0277] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include, but are not limited to, polysaccharide biopolymers such as starch, xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as cellulose gums, microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.
[0278] Lipophilic clays are examples of lipophilic gelling agents.
[0279] Lipophilic clay
[0280] According to embodiments herein, the composition of the present disclosure further contains at least one lipophilic clay.
[0281] The term "lipophilic clay" is used to designate any liposoluble or lipodispersible clay in the oily phase of the composition, in which the term "clay" designates a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates of lamellar structure.
[0282] The clays may be natural or synthetic, and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt, such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, particularly stearalkonium chloride or distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
[0283] In certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the clay may be selected from a group consisting of bentonites, particularly bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
[0284] In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the gelling agent is a lipophilic gelling agent and is selected from hectorites and bentonites.
[0285] In another embodiment of the present disclosure, the lipophilic clay is preferably selected from hydrophobic modified bentonites and hydrophobic modified hectorites, in particular by a quaternary ammonium chloride in CIO to C22, such as: a bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride, such as the commercial products sold under the name CLAYTONE AF®, GARAMITE VT®, TIXOGEL® LG-M, TIXOGEL® MP 250, TIXOGEL® VZ, TIXOGEL® VZ-V XR, by the company BYK Additives Inc; the commercial products marketed under the name VISCOGEL® B3, VISCOGEL® B4, VISCOGEL® B7, VISCOGEL® B8, VISCOGEL® ED, VISCOGEL® GM, VISCOGEL® S4, VISCOGEL® SD by Bentec SPA; a bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil such as the commercial products DUB VELVET GUM® from STEARINERIE DUBOIS FILS, MYGLYOL GEL T® from Cremer Oleo, TIXOGEL® CGT 6030, TIXOGEL® DBA 6060, TIXOGEL® FTN, TIXOGEL® FTN 1564, TIXOGEL® IPM, TIXOGEL® LAN, TIXOGEL® LAN 1563 from BYK Additives Inc;a hectorite modified with distearyl dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: disteardimonium hectorite) such as, for example, those marketed under the name BENTONE® 38V by the company Elementis Specialities; a hectorite modified with distearyl dimethylammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil, such as the commercial products sold under the name BENTONE® GEL DOA V, BENTONE® GEL EUG V, BENTONE® GEL IHD V, BENTONE® GEL ISD V, BENTONE® GEL MIO V® BENTONE® GEL PTM V® BENTONE® SS-71 V, BENTONE® VS-5 PC V, BENTONE® VS-5 by Elementis Specialities; commercial products sold under the name CREAGEL BENTONE CPS / HECTONE CPS, CREAGEL BENTONE ID / HECTONE ID by Créations Couleurs; commercial products sold under the name NS GEL DM1®, NS GEL PTIS®, NS MGEL 1152® by Next Step Laboratories Stop.;
[0286] The amount of hydrophilic and / or lipophilic gelling agent(s) present in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The hydrophilic and / or lipophilic gelling agent(s), according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 0.5% to 10%, preferably in a weight range of 0.5% to 6%, and more preferably of 0.5% to 2% relative to the total weight of the composition. Solvents
[0287] The composition, according to the embodiments herein, includes one or more solvents, which are used to facilitate the deposition of ingredients of the composition onto the keratinous material.
[0288] According to embodiments herein, the solvent is a volatile, water-soluble solvent and is part of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0289] The term "water-soluble solvent" as used herein refers to a compound, which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (water miscibility greater than 50% by weight at 25 and atmospheric pressure).
[0290] Examples of water-soluble solvents that may be suitably used in the composition according to the present disclosure include lower monohydric alcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol and di-propylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0291] The amount of solvents present in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The solvents, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 1% to 15%, preferably in a weight range of 3% to 10%, and more preferably of 4% to 6% relative to the total weight of the composition. Salts
[0292] The composition, according to the embodiments herein, includes one or more salts, which are used to stabilize the water-in-oil emulsion.
[0293] According to embodiments herein, the salt is inorganic and is part of the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0294] Examples of salts include, but are not limited to, magnesium sulfate, sodium chloride, potassium chloride, or mixtures thereof.
[0295] The amount of salt in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The salts, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 1% to 5%, preferably in a weight range of 1% to 3%, and more preferably from 0.5% to 2% relative to the total weight of the composition. Conservatives
[0296] The composition, according to the embodiments herein, includes one or more preservatives, which are used to preserve the integrity and stability of cosmetic products that may be damaged by microorganisms. Preservatives are essential to ensure consumer safety and increase the shelf life of the cosmetic product. Examples of preservatives include, but are not limited to, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, or mixtures thereof.
[0297] The amount of preservatives in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The preservatives, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in a weight range of 0.1% to 3%, preferably in a weight range of 0.2% to 2%, and more preferably from 0.3% to 1% relative to the total weight of the composition. Other additives
[0298] The composition further comprises additives, such as perfumes, additional coloring materials and mixtures thereof. Additional coloring materials
[0299] The composition according to the embodiments herein may further comprise at least one additional water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant, preferably in a weight range of at least 0.01% relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0300] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with respect to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered, and its adjustment is clearly within the competence of a person skilled in the art.
[0301] In certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the additional colorants may be fat soluble.
[0302] The term “liposoluble coloring matter” is used to designate any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or in solvents miscible with a fatty substance and suitable for coloring.
[0303] Examples of fat-soluble dyes suitable for the disclosed composition include, but are not limited to, synthetic or natural fat-soluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotene ([3-carotene, lycopene], xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.
[0304] In certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the additional colorants may be water soluble.
[0305] The term "water-soluble coloring matter" is used to designate any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or in water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.
[0306] Examples of water-soluble dyes include, but are not limited to, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyll, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, or riboflavin.
[0307] Preparation of the compositions according to the disclosure
[0308] The compositions according to the disclosure can be prepared using known processes, generally used in the cosmetic or derma field tological. Typically, the process included adding a volatile silicone oil, a silicone emulsifier, a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and a pigment to a beaker and homogenizing at 8000 rpm for 45 minutes to obtain a first mixture. A premix of a hydrophobic film-forming polymer and a volatile hydrocarbon oil, along with water, was added to the first mixture and homogenized at 6500 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a second mixture. A hydrophobic silica aerogel, one or more additives, and a solvent were added to the second mixture, followed by homogenization at 3500 rpm for 3 to 4 minutes, to obtain the composition. Applications
[0309] A composition, according to embodiments herein, may more particularly be a composition for coating keratinous material such as skin. Preferably, the composition, according to the embodiments herein, is a makeup and / or skin care composition. Therefore, the composition, in various embodiments herein, may be in the form of a makeup base composition. Preferably, the composition is in the form of a foundation, more preferably a liquid foundation. The composition, according to the embodiments herein, may optionally be applied with an applicator to the skin, followed by working the composition to form a coating on the skin.
[0310] Although the present disclosure has been described in considerable detail with reference to certain embodiments and their implementations, other embodiments are possible to cover modifications and variations of the present disclosure. Examples
[0311] The disclosure will now be illustrated by practical examples, which are intended to illustrate the operation of the disclosure and are not intended to restrictively impose limitations on the scope of this disclosure. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which this disclosure pertains. Although methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in practicing the disclosed methods and compositions, the exemplary methods, devices, and materials are described herein. It is to be understood that this disclosure is not limited to the particular methods and experimental conditions described, as such methods and conditions may apply.
[0312] The quantities of ingredients are indicated in the following examples in percentages of weight of active ingredient. EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of the compositions
[0313] Compositions C(la), C(lb), C(2), C(3), C(4), C(5), C(6), C(7) and C(8) listed in Table 1 were prepared as described below.
[0314] A volatile silicone oil, a silicone emulsifier, a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and a pigment were added to a main beaker and homogenized at 8000 rpm for 45 minutes to obtain a first mixture. An additive, such as a gelling agent, was added to the first mixture and dispersed at 8000 rpm for 25 minutes. A hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer was premixed with a volatile hydrocarbon oil and added to the first mixture. In addition, water was added to the first mixture and homogenized at 6500 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a second mixture. Hydrophobic silica aerogel was added along with a filler, preservatives, a salt, and a solvent to the second mixture and was homogenized at 3500 rpm for 3 to 4 minutes to obtain the composition.
[0315] [Tables 1] Phase e Ingredients INCI Name Content (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) C(la) C(lb) C(2) C(3) C(4) C(5) C(6) C(7) C(8) A Dimethicone 2cSt (volatile silicone oil) 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 A Peg cetyl / ppg-10 / 1 dimethicone (silicone emulsifier) 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 A Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (silicone emulsifier) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 A PEG-10 dimethicone (silicone emulsifier) 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 B Octocrylene (non-volatile hydrocarbon oil) 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 0 4 B Isononyl isonanoate (non-volatile hydrocarbon oil) 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 0 5 B Phenyl trime -thicones 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 9 0 B Trimethylsiloxysi licate (film-forming silicone polymer hy- 1 1 2 4 0.5 0.1 1 1 5.2 drophobe) c Titanium dioxide (et) disodium stearoyl glutamate (et) aluminum hydroxide (pigment) 8.2 7.89 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2 c Iron oxides (et) disodium stearoyl glutamate (et) aluminum hydroxide (pigment) 1.35 1.69 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 1.35 c Iron oxides (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide (pigment) 0.33 0.28 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 0.33 c Iron oxides (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide (pigment) 0.12 0.15 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 D Disteardimonium hectorite (gelling agent) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 E Water (aqueous phase) 29.6 29.5 9 28.6 26.6 30.1 30.5 30.5 3 29.6 25.4 E PEG-20 (silicone emulsifier) 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 E Ethylhexylglycerin 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 (preservative) E Magnesium sulfate (salt) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 E Phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Fl Silica silylate (hydrophobic silica aerogel) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 0.57 1.5 1.5 F2 Talc (filler) 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 F3 Isododecane (volatile hydrocarbon oil) 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 F4 Alcohol denatured (solvent) 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Total 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 EXAMPLE 2 Measurement and evaluation methods
[0316] Compositions C(1) to C(8) as prepared in Example 1 above were evaluated for their stability, viscosity, durable property and sensory aspects. Stability assessment
[0317] The stability of the compositions was evaluated by placing the compositions at various temperatures in a range of 25°C to 45°C, for a period of 2 months. The observation of hazy appearance, discoloration or crystallization and any other change in appearance of the compositions was checked. Long-term trial
[0318] Test protocol: The compositions were tested for their post-application durability. Each of the compositions was applied to a sample card and placed in an incubator at 37°C for 6 hours and 20 hours to dry the composition deposit. The weight of the cards with the composition applied was measured individually using a precision balance and recorded as the initial weight (W initiai). The cards were subjected to passes using a thin paper for 5, 10, 20, 35 and 50 strokes. The weight of the cards was measured after each set of passes and recorded as Wm. The corresponding weight of the composition that transferred to the thin paper was obtained as Wtransfert = Winitiai - Wfinai. In addition, a gradation score was provided on a scale of 1 to 5, where a lower score of 1 corresponds to a higher transfer of the composition from the cards and was therefore considered a poor lasting property. Sensory evaluation
[0319] Test Protocol: A sequential monadic protocol with 5 days of placement with each composition was tested (self-application trial), and further involved three on-site visits by each volunteer to record their appreciation of the product through in-depth interviews and online interactions via mobile applications. Sixteen human volunteers aged 18 to 40 who were regular users of the liquid foundation products were included in the trial. The compositions according to the present disclosure and the commercial product were evaluated for sensory aspects, such as oil control, long-lasting makeup appearance, buildable coverage, and sun protection. RESULTS Long-term trial
[0320] Compositions C(la), and C(2) to C(8) with the viscosity as listed in Table 2 were subjected to a long-term test to evaluate their attributes such as long-lasting and transfer resistance.
[0321] Compositions C(la), C(2) and C(3) prepared according to the present disclosure exhibited the lowest transfer of the composition onto the thin paper after being dried for 20 hours at 37°C, after deposition onto a sample card (Table 2, [Fig.lA]-lC). Compositions C(la), C(2) and C(3) comprised an optimal weight percentage of hydrophobic film-forming polymer (1%), as well as an optimal combination of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and hydrophobic silica aerogel resulting in transfer resistance and a long-lasting effect.
[0322] Compositions C(4), C(5) and C(8) comprising 0.5%, 0.1% and 5.2% by weight of the hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer, respectively, showed higher transfer of the compositions onto the thin paper after being dried for 20 hours at 37°C (Table 2, Figures 1D, 1E and 1H). It could be observed that composition C(8) having 5.2% by weight of the hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer resulted in maximum transfer of the composition, due to the formation of a rigid film, which eventually decomposes. Thus, it is clear that compositions comprising a hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer outside the disclosed weight percentages resulted in a low lasting effect.
[0323] Composition C(6) comprising the essential components in the weight range re sold still exhibited higher transfer due to the weight deviation of the hydrophobic silica aerogel compared to the disclosed composition (Table 2, [Fig.lF]).
[0324] Composition C(7) comprised 9 wt% phenyl trimethicone instead of the preferred non-volatile hydrocarbon oil combination of the present disclosure ([Fig.lG]). Therefore, C(7), although exhibiting lower transfer due to its non-volatility, fails to provide UV protection in the absence of the preferred non-volatile hydrocarbon oil combination of the present disclosure.
[0325] Thus, it could be clearly observed that the compositions of the present disclosure prepared with the desired components in the disclosed weight ranges provided the desired lasting effect and associated skin benefits.
[0326] [Tables2] Composition Weight in g of the transferred composition after Gradation after 50 passes 5 Passes 10 Passes 20 Passes 35 Passes 50 Passes C(la) 0.001 0.003 0.009 0.016 0.025 4 C(2) 0.004 0.009 0.018 0.031 0.039 4 C(3) 0.003 0.008 0.013 0.018 0.024 5 C(4) 0.010 0.017 0.030 0.047 0.061 2 C(5) 0.010 0.014 0.024 0.042 0.056 2 C(6) 0.006 0.016 0.030 0.044 0.054 1 C(7) 0.002 0.008 0.014 0.023 0.033 2 C(8) 0.001 0.007 0.013 0.022 0.030 3 Sensory evaluation
[0327] Composition C(lb) of the present disclosure was evaluated with respect to various sensory aspects, such as sebum control, long-lasting makeup appearance, buildable coverage and sun protection, in comparison to a selected commercial product CP(1). Results
[0328] During the 5-day monadic trial, many volunteers (9-12 / 16) reported that composition C(lb) had a rich, creamy texture, compared to the commercial product CP(1).
[0329] The majority of volunteers (13-15 / 16) reported that the composition C(lb) provided long-lasting, waterproof makeup for up to 6 hours indoors, meaning volunteers didn't have to touch up their makeup throughout the day.
[0330] The majority of volunteers (13-15 / 16) reported that composition C(lb) provided buildable coverage.
[0331] The majority of volunteers (13-15 / 16) reported that composition C(lb) provided good sun protection compared to the commercial product CP(1) and the volunteers observed that there was no burning sensation of the skin and no redness around the facial area even after being exposed to the sun.
[0332] Thus, compositions C(la), C(lb), C(2) and C(3) according to the present disclosure comprising an optimal combination of volatile hydrocarbon oil, volatile silicone oil, hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer, hydrophobic silica aerogel, silicone emulsifiers, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and pigments in a water-in-oil emulsion provided a long-lasting makeup appearance with improved sun protection.
[0333] Accordingly, it has been observed that the use of specific ingredients in the desired weight ranges as disclosed in various embodiments herein facilitates the achievement of a makeup composition with the desired sensory properties. Benefits of this disclosure
[0334] The present disclosure provides a water-in-oil emulsion for coating keratinous material comprising: i) a continuous oil phase comprising: a) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; b) at least one volatile silicone oil; c) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; d) at least one hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer; e) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel; f) at least one silicone emulsifier; and g) at least one pigment; and ii) an aqueous phase. The composition with an optimized ratio of film-forming polymer and silica aerogel in combination with volatile and non-volatile oils provides the following consumer-perceived benefits as listed below.
[0335] The composition has a creamy and smooth liquid texture and is easy to spread and blend on the skin.
[0336] The composition provides a long-lasting makeup appearance for up to 6 hours, without retouching during the day.
[0337] The composition provides transfer-resistant and waterproof makeup.
[0338] The composition offers many other benefits for the skin, such as control sebum, a hydrated and matte appearance, a feeling of lightness and improved sun protection.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium, said composition comprising: i) a continuous oily phase comprising: a) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; (b) at least one volatile silicone oil; (c) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil; d) at least one hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer in a weight range of 1% to 4.9% relative to the total weight of the composition; e) at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel in a weight range of 1% to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition; f) at least one silicone emulsifier having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of less than 8; and g) at least one pigment; and ii) an aqueous phase, wherein the at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from non-UV-screening synthetic ester oils, lipophilic liquid organic UV filters or mixtures thereof.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from C8-C16 isoalkanes, more preferably, is isododecane.
3. Composition according to claim 1, in which the volatile silicone oil is chosen from non-cyclic volatile silicone oils, preferably chosen from dimethicones, trisiloxane, dodeca-methylpentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof, more preferably is chosen from dimethicones.
4. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from isononyl isononanoate, octocrylene or mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic silicone film-forming polymer is chosen from silicone resins, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-derived unit, silicone acrylate copolymers, silicone polyamide and polyamide-based copolymers. hydrocarbons, or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from silicone resins, more preferably trimethylsiloxysilicate.
6. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic silica aerogel is chosen from amorphous hydrophobic silicas, hydrophobically treated fumed silicas, or mixtures thereof, preferably hydrophobically treated fumed silicas, more preferably silylated silica.
7. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone emulsifier is selected from polyether, polyglycerin-modified silicones, silicone elastomers, or mixtures thereof, preferably selected from cetyl polyethylene glycol (PEG) / polypropylene glycol (PPG)-10 / dimethicone, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-20, or mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to claim 1, in which the pigment is chosen from pigments coated with at least one compound chosen from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl tristearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; silicone surfactants such as organopolysiloxanes, alkylalkoxysilanes such as triethoxycaprylylsilane; fluorinated surfactants such as perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups;fluorosilicone surfactants such as perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes; and mixtures thereof.;
9. A kit comprising (a) the composition of claim 1; (b) a container; and (c) optionally, an applicator.
10. A method of coating a keratinous material, preferably for making up and / or caring for a keratinous material, preferably the skin, characterized in that said method comprises applying said composition according to claim 1 to the keratinous material, preferably the skin.