ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR A GENTLE AND LOW-GREASY APPLICATION

Abstract

ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SMOOTH AND LOW-GREASY APPLICATION The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition comprising: (a) at least one oil other than fatty alcohol; (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers; (c) at least one fatty alcohol and (d) at least one gelling agent. The anhydrous composition according to the present invention is thickened and has suitable applicability and can also provide good smoothness during application and limited greasy feeling after application. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR GENTLE AND LOW-GREASY APPLICATION Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition, in particular, an anhydrous cosmetic composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] In the field of cosmetics, there is a type of anhydrous cosmetic that does not include water or only a small amount of water. It is typical for anhydrous cosmetics to include at least one oil as a main ingredient.

[0003] Anhydrous cosmetics tend to be greasy or oily after application, which is not comfortable. If the viscosity of anhydrous cosmetics is reduced, the greasy or oily character of the anhydrous cosmetics can be reduced. However, it is difficult to apply low-viscosity anhydrous cosmetics to a keratinous substance such as skin due to dripping. Thus, it is preferable that anhydrous cosmetics be thickened or gelled by using at least one gelling agent. On the other hand, it is difficult to apply high-viscosity anhydrous cosmetics evenly.

[0004] WO 2021 / 132045 discloses an anhydrous composition including an ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer, as an organic lipophilic gelling agent, in an amount of 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0005] There still exists a need for an anhydrous composition which is thickened and can have suitable applicability, and which can also provide good smoothness during application and limited greasy feeling after application.

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide an anhydrous composition which is thickened and can have suitable applicability, and which can also provide good smoothness during application and limited greasy feeling after application.

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved with an anhydrous composition comprising:

[0008] (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol;

[0009] (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers urethane;

[0010] (c) at least one fatty alcohol and

[0011] (d) at least one desquamating agent.

[0012] The oil (a) may be selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof.

[0013] The amount of the (a) oil(s) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and, even better, 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0014] The organic lipophilic gelling agent (b) may be a crosslinked HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer.

[0015] The amount of organic lipophilic gelling agent (b) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1.5% by weight and, more preferably, less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The fatty alcohol (c) may be chosen from branched fatty alcohols and, preferably, from hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol and a mixture thereof.

[0017] The amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and, better still, from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0018] The desquamating agent (d) may be selected from mechanical desquamating agents and chemical desquamating agents. The mechanical desquamating agent may be selected from water-soluble particles such as sugars. The chemical desquamating agent may be selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0019] The amount of the desquamating agent(s) (d) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be transparent.

[0021] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be a composition anhydrous cosmetic, preferably an anhydrous cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin and, more preferably, an anhydrous skin peeling composition.

[0022] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substance such as the skin, comprising the following steps: application of the anhydrous composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.

[0023] The present invention also relates to a use of (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from urethane polymers in a com- anhydrous position, comprising:

[0024] (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol;

[0025] (c) at least one fatty alcohol and

[0026] (d) at least one desquamating agent,

[0027] to thicken the anhydrous composition. Best mode for carrying out the invention

[0028] After careful research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide an anhydrous composition which is thickened and can have suitable applicability, and which can also provide good smoothness during application and limited greasy feeling after application.

[0029] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is an anhydrous composition, comprising:

[0030] (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol;

[0031] (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers urethane;

[0032] (c) at least one fatty alcohol and

[0033] (d) at least one desquamating agent.

[0034] The term "anhydrous" composition herein refers to a composition that does not include water or includes less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and, more preferably, less than 0.1% by weight of water, by relative total weight of the composition.

[0035] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention is thickened and can have suitable applicability and can also provide good smoothness during application and limited greasy feeling after application.

[0036] Since the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is thickened and, preferably, in the form of a gel, i.e. an oil gel.

[0037] The term "gel" herein includes a thick liquid which may be a Newtonian fluid or a non-Newtonian fluid. Newtonian fluid refers to a fluid which does not change viscosity with a change in flow state. The gel also contains a shear-thinning gel.

[0038] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be a gel having a non-Newtonian viscosity. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be a shear thinner. The non-Newtonian shear thinning material changes from a gel state to a liquid state in the presence of an applied shear stress and becomes a gel again in the absence of the applied shear stress. By definition, a shear thinning material is a material in which, when an applied shear stress is increased, the viscosity of the material decreases nonlinearly.

[0039] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be characterized by its rheological characteristics. The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may have a storage modulus (G') of 50 Pa to 10,000 Pa, preferably of 100 Pa to 7,500 Pa and, more preferably, of 500 Pa to 5,000 Pa.

[0040] The storage modulus (G') can be measured using a 40 mm parallel plate rheometer and under the following conditions:

[0041] Spacing: 500 qm

[0042] Temperature: 25°C

[0043] Deformation (%): 1%

[0044] Frequency: 1 Hz

[0045] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention can have suitable applicability because the storage modulus (G') of 50 Pa or more can make the anhydrous composition difficult to break before application, and the storage modulus (G') of 10,000 Pa or less can make the anhydrous composition non-solid and difficult to apply.

[0046] If the anhydrous composition according to the present invention has the storage modulus (G'), (d) the desquamating agent can be well dispersed in the anhydrous composition and, therefore, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention can effectively exfoliate the surface layer of a keratin substance such as the stratum corneum of the skin.

[0047] If the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises (f) a skin care active ingredient, (f) the skin care active ingredient can penetrate well into the skin.

[0048] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

[0049] [Composition]

[0050] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0051] (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol;

[0052] (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers urethane;

[0053] (c) at least one fatty alcohol and

[0054] (d) at least one desquamating agent.

[0055] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.

[0056] (Oil)

[0057] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oil. Two or more oils (a) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils can be used.

[0058] As used herein, the term "oil" means a fatty compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The oil (a) may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0059] The oil (a) here is not fatty alcohol. Thus, the oil (a) is different from the fatty alcohol (c).

[0060] The oil (a) may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil or a mixture thereof.

[0061] It may be preferable that the oil (a) is selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable origin, synthetic oils such as ester oils and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Examples of vegetable oils that may be mentioned include, for example, the following oils: linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, squalene, natural triglyceride and mixtures thereof.

[0063] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as hydrogenated polyolefin (e.g., C6-C2o), ester oils (e.g., ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate), ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0064] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0065] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention originate is branched.

[0066] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, the following may be mentioned: ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0067] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 sugar-free dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0068] The following elements may in particular be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sar-cosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0069] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C[2-C22] fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates hydrocarbon compounds bearing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0070] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include the following: sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0071] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6-C30, and preferably in C[2-C 22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0072] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

[0073] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0074] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0075] An example that may be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0076] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] As examples of ether oils, mention may be made of dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate) and mixtures thereof.

[0079] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one silicone oil. Examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Preferably, the oil phase of the present invention does not include silicone oil. In other words, (a) the oil of the present invention may be selected from non-silicone oils.

[0081] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil. The hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:

[0082] - linear or branched lower alkanes, optionally cyclic, C6-Ci6. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, e.g. isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and

[0083] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0084] Preferably, the oil phase of the present invention does not include a hydrocarbon oil. In other words, (a) the oil of the present invention may be selected from non-hydrocarbon oils.

[0085] As preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or pe trolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.

[0086] It is preferable that the oil (a) is selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and a mixture thereof.

[0087] The amount of the (a) oil(s) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and, even better, 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0088] Furthermore, the amount of the oil(s) (a) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and, more preferably, 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0089] Consequently, the amount of the (a) polyol(s) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight and, better still, from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0090] (Organic lipophilic gelling agent)

[0091] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent. Two or more (b) organic lipophilic gelling agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of organic lipophilic gelling agent or a combination of different types of organic lipophilic gelling agents may be used.

[0092] The term "lipophilic" herein means substances soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0093] The term "gelling agent" herein means that ingredient (b) can thicken or increase the viscosity of the anhydrous composition according to the present invention.

[0094] The (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent is selected from urethane polymers. The term "urethane polymer" herein refers to a polymer comprising at least one urethane bond (-NH-COO-). It is preferable that the urethane polymer includes a plurality of urethane bonds and, more preferably, a plurality of repeating units each of which includes at least one urethane bond and, in particular, a plurality of urethane bonds.

[0095] The (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent may or may not be crosslinked. It is preferable that the (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent is crosslinked.

[0096] The (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be in the form of particles, preferably spherical. The (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent in the form of particles may have a number average particle size ranging, for example, from 1 μm to 20 μm. um. The term "number average size" refers to the dimension given by the random particle size distribution to half of the population, called D50. The organic lipophilic gelling agent (b) may take the form of a powder.

[0097] The organic lipophilic gelling agent (b) may be a copolymer. The organic lipophilic gelling agent (b) may be a copolymer of isocyanate and trimethylol hexyllactone, in particular, a hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) / trimethylol hexyllactone crosslinked polymer. Examples of the copolymer include the urethane polymer powder marketed by Toshiki Pigment under the name Plastic Powder D-400®, Plastic Powder D-800®, or Plastic Powder CS-400®, or marketed by Lubrizol under the name Oilkemia® 5S CC Polymer.

[0098] Preferably, as (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may comprise hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) / crosslinked trimethylol hexyllactone polymer, for example, marketed by the company Lubrizol under the name Oilkemia® 5S CC Polymer.

[0099] The amount of the (b) organic gelling agent(s) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be greater than 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than 0.05% by weight and, even better, greater than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0100] Thus, the amount of organic gelling agent(s) (b) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1.5% by weight and, even better, less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0101] Thus, the amount of the (b) organic gelling agent(s) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be greater than 0.01% and less than 2% by weight, preferably greater than 0.05% and less than 1.5% by weight and, better still, greater than 0.1% and less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0102] The (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) may thicken the anhydrous composition according to the present invention even if its quantity is small, such as less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 4% by weight and, even better, less than 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0103] (Fatty alcohol)

[0104] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more fatty alcohols (c) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of fatty alcohols may be used.

[0105] The term "fatty" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more and, more preferably, 10 or more carbon atoms, are included in the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0106] The fatty alcohol (c) may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be substituted or not by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0107] The fatty alcohol (c) can be chosen from linear or branched fatty alcohols.

[0108] As non-limiting examples of linear fatty alcohols, mention may be made of alcohol lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0109] Examples of suitable linear fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Fatty alcohol (c) may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0111] Therefore, according to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol (c) used in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0112] Non-limiting examples of branched fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol and a mixture thereof.

[0113] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol (c) is chosen from branched fatty alcohols and, even better, from hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol and a mixture thereof.

[0114] The amount of fatty alcohol in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] Furthermore, the amount of the (c) fatty alcohol(s) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less and, even better, 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] The amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and, better still, from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] (Desquamating agent)

[0118] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one desquamating agent. Two or more desquamating agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of desquamating agent or a combination of different types of desquamating agents may be used.

[0119] The desquamating agent herein refers to a substance which can remove a surface layer of a keratinous substance, for example, the stratum corneum or horny layer of the skin.

[0120] The desquamating agent (d) may be selected from mechanical desquamating agents and chemical desquamating agents. Mechanical desquamating agents may remove a surface layer such as the stratum corneum of a keratinous substance such as skin by any mechanical action such as washing. Chemical desquamating agents may remove a surface layer such as the stratum corneum of a keratinous substance such as skin by any chemical action such as dissolving the surface layer.

[0121] The mechanical desquamating agent may be chosen from water-soluble particles.

[0122] Water soluble particle:

[0123] The term "water soluble" herein refers to substances having a solubility of at least 1 g / L, preferably at least 10 g / L and, more preferably, at least 100 g / L, in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0124] Preferably, the water-soluble particles are oil-insoluble, i.e., they have a solubility of less than 1 g / l, preferably less than 0.1 g / l, in oils.

[0125] Water-soluble particles can have any shape: platelet, spherical, oblong or multiangular, regardless of their crystallographic shape (e.g. lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).

[0126] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may function as water-soluble desquamating particles. The water-soluble particle as a desquamating particle may physically disrupt a keratinous substance such as skin, particularly the stratum corneum. In this embodiment, the water-soluble particles may be formed as hard, sharp-edged, and rough surface particles. The sharp-edged particles may be formed as a polypyramid.

[0127] In specific embodiments of the present invention, the (d) water-soluble particles may have an aspect ratio of at least 1.1, preferably at least 1.2, and more preferably at least 1.5, even more preferably at least 2, and especially at least 2.5. In other embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an aspect ratio of 2 or less, preferably 1.5 or less, and most preferably 1.2 or less. The aspect ratio may be measured by technology common in the art, for example, image analysis using an electron microscope.

[0128] In other specific embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an average circularity determined by an image analysis method of 0.95 or less, preferably 0.9 or less, and more preferably 0.85 or less, and even more preferably 0.8 or less. In other embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles have an average circularity determined by an image analysis method of 0.7 or greater, preferably 0.8 or greater, more preferably 0.85 or greater, and even more preferably 0.9 or greater.

[0129] The "average circularity" may be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "average circularity" may be an arithmetic mean of the circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of not less than 2,000 particles observed at a magnification of 1,000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0130] The “circularity” of each particle is a value determined by the following formula:

[0131] C = 4jtS / L2

[0132] where C represents a circularity, S represents an area (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents a length of a periphery (perimeter) of the particle in the image. As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each of the particles becomes more spherical.

[0133] The water-soluble particles may have an average primary particle size of 10 qm or more, preferably 30 qm or more, more preferably 50 qm or more, and even more preferably 100 qm or more, and especially 200 qm or more. The average primary particle size of the water-soluble particles may be 1 mm or less, preferably 800 qm or less, and even more preferably 600 qm or less, and even more preferably 500 qm or less.

[0134] The term "average primary particle size" as used herein represents a volume mean size average diameter that is given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, designated D50. For example, the volume mean size average diameter can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.

[0135] The substances of the water-soluble particles are not particularly limited as long as they dissolve upon contact with water. However, preferably, the water-soluble particles may be composed of ingredients that are cosmetically beneficial to a keratinous substance such as skin.

[0136] For example, the water-soluble particles may be composed of polysaccharides, monosaccharides, amino acids, sugar alcohols, ascorbic acids, and a mixture thereof. The polysaccharide may include disaccharides, such as sucrose, lactose, maltose, and trisaccharides such as raffinose, and mucopolysaccharides, such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, and heparin. The monosaccharide may include pentose, hexose, and heptose, such as glucose, dextrose, galactose, mannose, and glucuronic acid. The sugar alcohols may include sorbitol and glucamines. The ascorbic acids may include vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its derivative such as ascorbyl glucoside.

[0137] It is preferable that the water-soluble particle comprises polysaccharide particles and, more preferably, sucrose.

[0138] The chemical desquamating agent may be chosen from polyhydroxy acids.

[0139] Polyhydroxy acid:

[0140] The term "polyhydroxy acid" used herein refers to an organic compound that has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxy groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.

[0141] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. It is preferable that the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid is selected from sugar acids.

[0142] Examples of the polyhydroxy acid include dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0143] It is preferable that the polyhydroxy acid is in the form of a lactone. The cycle Lactone of the polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone can be saturated. Examples of polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone include gluconolactone, ri-bonolactone and mixtures thereof.

[0144] It is preferable that the (d) desquamating agent is gluconolactone.

[0145] The polyhydroxy acid may be in the form of a salt.

[0146] The type of the salt is not limited. Examples of the salt include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. The sodium salt is preferred. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0147] The chemical desquamating agent may be chosen from monohydroxy acids.

[0148] Monohydroxy acid:

[0149] The term "monohydroxy acid" as used herein refers to an organic compound that has at least one carboxyl group and one hydroxy group. The number of carboxyl groups in the monohydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the monohydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.

[0150] The monohydroxyl acid may be chosen from alpha-monohydroxy acids, beta-monohydroxy acids and mixtures thereof.

[0151] The term "alpha-monohydroxy acid" herein refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group separated by a carbon atom. In other words, alpha-monohydroxy acid is a carboxylic acid that has a hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

[0152] The alpha-monohydroxy acid may be chosen from, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably glycolic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably glycolic acid.

[0153] The term "beta-monohydroxy acid" herein refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group separated by two carbon atoms.

[0154] The beta-monohydroxy acid may be salicylic acid.

[0155] The monohydroxy acid can take the form of a salt.

[0156] The type of the salt is not limited. Examples of the salt include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt and triethanolamine salt. nolamine; and mixtures thereof. The sodium salt is preferred. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0157] It is preferable that the chemical desquamating agent is selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, their salts and their mixtures and, more preferably, glu-conolactone, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, and a mixture thereof.

[0158] The amount of the desquamating agent(s) (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] Furthermore, the amount of the desquamating agent compound(s) (d) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] Therefore, the amount of the desquamating agent(s) (d) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0161] (Hyaluronic acid)

[0162] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one non-hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof. Two or more hyaluronic acids or salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of hyaluronic acids or salts thereof may be used.

[0163] Hyaluronic acid is a predominant glucosaminoglycan found in the skin. Thus, fibroblasts mainly synthesize collagens, matrix glycoproteins other than collagens (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans and elastin. Keratinocytes, on the other hand, mainly synthesize sulfated glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is also called hyaluronan.

[0164] Hyaluronic acid is present in the free state in the epidermis and dermis and is responsible for the turgor of the skin. This polysaccharide can in fact retain a large volume of water, corresponding to 1000 times its weight. In this sense, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in increasing the amounts of bound water in tissues, as well as in the mechanical properties of the skin and in the formation of wrinkles.

[0165] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

[0166] In the context of the present invention, the expression "hyaluronic acid" covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

[0167] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a dimer of di-saccharide, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0168] As salts, mention may be made of alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0169] The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid or its salt is not limited. The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid may be 5 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and more preferably 100 kDa or more. The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid or its salt may be 20 MDa or less, preferably 10 MDa or less, and more preferably 2000 kDa or less. Thus, the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid may be 5 kDa to 20 MDa, preferably 20 kDa to 10 MDa, and more preferably 100 kDa to 2000 kDa.

[0170] Unless otherwise indicated in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means a number average molecular mass.

[0171] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] The amount of the monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0173] The amount of the non-polymeric acid(s) or salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] (Active skin care ingredient)

[0175] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one skin care active ingredient. Two or more skin care active ingredients may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of skin care active ingredient, or a combination of different types of skin care active ingredients may be used.

[0176] The (d) skin care active ingredient may take the form of a salt. The salts (f) of the skin care active ingredient include conventional non-toxic salts, such as those formed from an acid or a base.

[0177] It may be preferable that the (f) skin care active ingredient is a cosmetic skin care active ingredient, and more preferably an anti-aging agent such as an antioxidant.

[0178] In one embodiment, the (f) skin care active ingredient may be selected from lipophilic antioxidants.

[0179] According to the present invention, antioxidant agents are compounds or substances which can scavenge the different forms of radicals which may be present in the skin; preferably, they simultaneously scavenge all the different forms of radicals present.

[0180] Lipophilic antioxidant (b) means that the partition coefficient of the antioxidant agent between n-butanol and water is > 1, more preferably > 10 and even more preferably > 100.

[0181] The lipophilic antioxidant (b) is hydrophobic, and is not a hydrophilic antioxidant such as ascorbic acid or glutathione.

[0182] As a lipophilic antioxidant agent, mention may be made of phenolic antioxidants which have a braked phenol structure or a semi-braked phenol structure within the molecule. Specific examples of such compounds include 3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxybenzenepropanoic acid) which has the INCI name pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-ethylphenol, mono- or di- or tri-(a-methylbenzyl)phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(4-ethyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,2'-methylenebis(4-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-butylidenebis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-thiobis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,5-di-tert-butylhydroquinone, 2,5-di-tert-amylhydroquinone, the tris[N-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)]isocyanurate, the 1,1,3-tris(2-methyl-4-hydroxy-5-tert-butylphenyl)butane, butylidene-1,1bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], octadecyl 3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate, tetrakis[methylene-3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionato]methane, triethylene glycol bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], 3,9-bis{2-[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionyloxy]-l,l-dimethylethyl}-2,4,8,10-tetraoxaspiro[5.5]undecane, l,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6-tris(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)benzene, 2,2-thiodiethylenebis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], N,N'-hexamethylenebis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamide), 1,6-hexanediol bis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], l,3,5-tris[(4-tert-butyl-3-hydroxy-2,6-xylyl)methyl]-l,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-trione, 2,4-bis(n-octylthio)-6-(4-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-butylanilino)-l,3,5-triazine, acrylate 2-tert-butyl-6-(3'-tert-butyl-5'-methyl-2'-hydroxybenzyl)-4-methylphenyl, 2-[1-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-pentylphenyl)ethyl]-4,6-di-tert-pentylphenyl acrylate, 4,6-bis[(octylthio)methyl]-o-cresol, 2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl-3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzoate and 1,6-hexanediolbis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate].

[0183] As lipophilic antioxidants, mention may be made of BHA (butylated hydroxyl anisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxyl toluene), vitamin E (or tocopherols and tocotrienol) and their derivatives, such as the phosphate derivative, for example TPNA® marketed by the company Showa Denko, coenzyme Q10 (or ubiquinone), idebenone, certain carotenoids such as lutein, astaxanthin, beta-carotene, polyphenols, phenolic acids and derivatives (for example, chlorogenic acid) and flavonoids, which represent the main subgroup of polyphenols.

[0184] Among the flavonoids, mention may be made in particular of chalcones, hydroxylated chalcones and their reduced derivatives (as described in particular in patent FR 2 608 150), for example phloretin, neohesperidin, phloridzin, aspalathin, etc., flavanones, for example hesperetin and naringin, flavonols, for example quercetin, rutin, flavanols, for example catechin, EGCG, flavones, for example apigenidin, and finally anthocyanins. Mention may also be made of tannins. Reference may also be made to the compounds described in patent applications FR 2 699 818, FR 2 706 478, FR 2 907 339, FR 2 814 943 and FR 2 873 026.

[0185] The polyphenolic compounds may in particular be derived from plant extracts chosen from extracts of green tea, apple, hops, guava, cocoa or wood such as chestnut, oak, horse chestnut or hazelnut. It is also possible to use a pine bark extract, for example, obtained according to the processes described in US Patent No. 4,698,360, US Patent No. 6,372,266, and US Patent No. 5,720,956. Examples of such extracts include the compound referenced by the INCI name pinus pinaster (bark extract) and the CTFA name pine bark extract (pinus pinaster). These may include, in particular, maritime pine bark extract marketed under the name PYCNOGENOL® by BIOLANDES AROMES and / or HORPHAG Research. Pine bark extracts (maritime) from LAYN Natural Ingrédients, Pine Bark from Blue California, and also Oligopin® from DRT (Les Dérivés Résiniques et Terpéniques) may also be cited.

[0186] In the context of the present invention, the expression “polyphenol compound” therefore also covers the plant extract itself, rich in these polyphenol compounds.

[0187] The lipophilic antioxidant which may also be mentioned includes dithiolanes, for example asparagusic acid, or its derivatives, for example siliceous dithiolane derivatives, in particular those described in patent application FR 2 908 769.

[0188] The lipophilic antioxidant which may also be mentioned includes:

[0189] glutathione and its derivatives (GSH and / or GSHOEt), such as glutathione alkyl esters (such as those described in patent applications FR 2 704 754 and FR 2 908 769); and

[0190] cysteine ​​and its derivatives, such as N-acetylcysteine ​​or L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid. Reference may also be made to the cysteine ​​derivatives described in patent applications FR 2 877 004 and FR 2 854 160; and

[0191] ferulic acid and its derivatives (esters, salts, etc.). Mention may in particular be made of esters of ferulic acid and C1-C30 alcohols, in particular methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, isopropyl ferulate, octyl ferulate and oryzanyl ferulate;

[0192] certain oxidative stress defense enzymes, such as catalase, superoxide dismutase (SOD), lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases;

[0193] benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; pidolates (as described in particular in patent application EP 0 511 118); caffeic acid and its derivatives, gamma-oryzanol; melatonin, sulforaphane and extracts containing it (excluding watercress);

[0194] N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid diisopropyl ester, as described in particular in patent applications WO 94 / 11338, FR 2 698 095, FR 2 737 205 or EP 0 755 925; and

[0195] deferoxamine (or desferal) as described in patent application FR 2 825 920.

[0196] The lipophilic antioxidants which are preferably used are chalcones, more particularly phloretin or neohesperidin, N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid diisopropyl ester, or a pine bark extract such as PYCNOGENOL®.

[0197] Examples of the lipophilic antioxidant include pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyl toluene, butylated hydroxyl anisole, ascorbyl palmitate, tocopherol, and mixtures thereof.

[0198] The amount of the skin care active ingredient(s) (f) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0199] Furthermore, the amount of the (d) active skin care ingredient(s) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0200] Therefore, the amount of the skin care active ingredient(s) in the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0201] (Other optional ingredients)

[0202] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, other optional ingredients generally used in cosmetics, in particular, lipophilic thickeners other than ingredient (b), waxes; preservatives and the like, within a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

[0203] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight and, more preferably, 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.

[0204] [Preparation]

[0205] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

[0206] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the anhydrous composition according to the present invention.

[0207] [Shape]

[0208] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be transparent.

[0209] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (turbidity can be measured for example with a 2100Q incandescent lamp (marketed by Hach Company) with a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm in height) and a tungsten filament lamp capable of emitting visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. The blank test can be evaluated with distilled water.

[0210] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may have a turbidity of 200 NTU or less, preferably 50 NTU or less, more preferably 30 NTU or less and even more preferably 10 NTU or less.

[0211] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention can take various forms, such as a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion or the like.

[0212] [Process and Use]

[0213] It is preferable that the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition, preferably an anhydrous cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin and, more preferably, an anhydrous skin peeling composition. Skin exfoliation here means exfoliation of the superficial layer of the skin, in particular the horny layer of the skin.

[0214] The skin here includes facial skin, neck skin and scalp. The anhydrous composition according to the present invention can also be used for mucous membranes such as lips and the like.

[0215] Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is a skin care composition.

[0216] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating a keratinous substance, preferably for treating the skin and, even better, for exfoliating the skin, by being applied to the skin.

[0217] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating a keratin substance, preferably for treating the skin, and; better still, for desquamating the skin, comprising the step of applying the anhydrous composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance, in particular the skin.

[0218] The anhydrous composition used in the above step of the cosmetic process according to the present invention is the same as that explained above. The method of applying the anhydrous composition to the keratin substance is not particularly limited, and any method known in the art can be used. In general, the anhydrous composition can be applied by hand.

[0219] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may further comprise a step of massaging the keratin substance where the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is applied. This step may promote (d) the desquamating agent in the anhydrous composition disturbing the surface of the keratin substance, in particular, the stratum corneum. The massaging step may be carried out for at least 10 seconds.

[0220] The cosmetic process according to the present invention may further comprise the step of removing the anhydrous composition from the keratin substance. The removal may be carried out, for example, by rinsing with water.

[0221] Another aspect of the present invention may relate to a use of (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from urethane polymers

[0222] in an anhydrous composition, comprising:

[0223] (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol;

[0224] (c) at least one fatty alcohol and

[0225] (d) at least one desquamating agent,

[0226] to thicken the anhydrous composition.

[0227] The above use according to the present invention may be characterized in that (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent is used to thicken an anhydrous composition comprising (a) at least one oil other than fatty alcohol, (c) at least one fatty alcohol and (d) at least one desquamating agent.

[0228] The above explanations regarding ingredients (a) to (d), as well as optional ingredients, for the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be applied to those for the above use according to the present invention. The explanations regarding the preparation and forms of the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may also be applied to those of the anhydrous composition described in the above use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0229] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Examples 1-3 and Comparative Example 1]

[0230] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of raw materials.

[0231] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. Comp. 1 HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosslinked polymer 0.4 0.5 0.5 - Ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer - - - 0.5 Octyldodecanol 10 10 10 10 Gluconolactone - 1 0.8 1 Tartaric acid 1 - - - Sucrose - - 0.2 - Tocopherol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Caprylic / capric triglyceride qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Visual appearance Good Good Good Poor Storage modulus G' (Pa) 1015 3546 3656 NA Softness Good Good Good NA Fatty feeling Good Good Good NA

[0232] [Evaluations]

[0233] (Visual aspect)

[0234] The appearance of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 was evaluated visually at room temperature (25°C) in accordance with the following criteria.

[0235] Good: Clear gel

[0236] Bad: Non-transparent gel (opaque solution)

[0237] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0238] (Conservation Module)

[0239] The storage modulus G' of the composition according to Examples 1-3 was measured using a Discovery Hybrid Rheometer 2 (TA instrument) with a 40 mm parallel plate with a defined gap of 500 qm at 25 °C under conditions of a frequency of 1 Hz and an oscillation stress of 1%. The storage modulus G' of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 could not be measured because it was not a gel.

[0240] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0241] (Sweetness)

[0242] 10 professional panelists evaluated the “softness” during the application of the com positions according to examples 1-3. Each panelist took each composition in an amount of approximately 5 g; then applied it to their hands by gently rubbing for 1 minute to assess the feeling of softness during application, and ranked it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average rating:

[0243] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0

[0244] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0

[0245] Bad: From 2.9 to 2.0

[0246] Very bad: From 1.9 to 1.0

[0247] The softness during application of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was not evaluated because it was not a gel so that the result of Comparative Example 1 could not be compared with that of Examples 1-3.

[0248] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0249] (Greasy feeling)

[0250] 10 professional panelists evaluated the “greasy feeling” after application of the compositions according to Examples 1-3. Each panelist took each composition in an amount of approximately 5 g, then applied it to their hands by gently rubbing for 1 minute to assess the greasy feeling after application, and ranked it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average rating:

[0251] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0

[0252] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0

[0253] Bad: From 2.9 to 2.0

[0254] Very bad: From 1.9 to 1.0

[0255] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0256] The greasy feeling after application of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was not evaluated because it was not a gel so that the result of Comparative Example 1 could not be compared with that of Examples 1-3.

[0257] (Summary)

[0258] The compositions according to Examples 1-3 which include ingredients (a) to (d) in the composition according to the present invention were in the form of a gel, had a storage modulus of between 50 Pa and 10,000 Pa (meaning that they were suitably applicable), and provided smoothness during application and less greasy feeling after application.

[0259] It should be noted that the amount of HDI / trimethylol crosslinked polymer hexyllactone corresponding to ingredient (b) in the compositions according to Examples 1-3 was not significant. It is surprising that a small amount of ingredient (b) can thicken the compositions according to Examples 1-3.

[0260] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 which does not have ingredient (b) was not in gel form. Therefore, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 could not compare with the compositions according to Examples 1-3 in terms of storage modulus as well as softness and greasy feel.

[0261] It should be noted that the ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer is a class of polyamide and not a urethane polymer. Thus, the ethylenediamine dilinoleate / stearyl dimer copolymer included in the composition according to Comparative Example 1 does not correspond to ingredient (b) in the composition according to the present invention.

Claims

Claims

1. Anhydrous composition, comprising: (a) at least one oil other than fatty alcohol; (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers; (c) at least one fatty alcohol and (d) at least one desquamating agent.

2. An anhydrous composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) oil is selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils and a mixture thereof.

3. An anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the (b) organic lipophilic gelling agent is an HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosslinked polymer.

4. An anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty alcohol (c) is selected from branched fatty alcohols, and preferably from hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol and a mixture thereof.

5. An anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein (d) the desquamating agent is selected from mechanical desquamating agents and chemical desquamating agents.

6. An anhydrous composition according to claim 5, wherein the mechanical desquamating agent is selected from water-soluble particles such as sugars.

7. Anhydrous composition according to claim 5, wherein the chemical desquamating agent is selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, their salts and their mixtures.

8. An anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the anhydrous composition is an anhydrous cosmetic composition, preferably an anhydrous cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as skin and, more preferably, an anhydrous skin peeling composition.

9. Cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance, preferably such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratin substance.

10. Use of (b) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent chosen from urethane polymers in an anhydrous composition, including: (a) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol; (c) at least one fatty alcohol and (d) at least one desquamating agent, for thickening the anhydrous composition.