COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS

Abstract

COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS The present invention relates principally to a composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one aminosilicone. The present invention can improve the remodeling of keratinous fibers such as hair based on treatment of the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, providing more durable smoothing effects. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR KERATINOUS FIBERS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates primarily to a composition that is suitable for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair. PRIORITY OF THE TECHNOLOGY

[0002] Straightening keratin fibers such as hair by heating them with a flat iron is a common practice. This makes unruly keratin fibers manageable, reduces volume, and improves their appearance. While this type of straightening with a flat iron is convenient for quick styling, the hairstyle only lasts for a short time, for example, until the next shampoo. Many consumers require a more permanent straightening method.

[0003] On the other hand, conventional permanent straightening processes using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can offer keratin fibers a durable style, but they have several disadvantages such as a long treatment time, damage to keratin fibers and a bad smell.

[0004] Document WO 2014 / 131469 discloses a process for smoothing keratinous fibers by heating with an iron, without the use of reducing and oxidizing agents, in which glyoxylic acid is used to smooth the keratinous fibers.

[0005] Document US-A-2023 / 742 discloses a semi-permanent hair smoothing composition including 15% to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1% to 5% by weight of levulinic acid. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0006] It remains necessary to improve the remodeling of keratinous fibers based on a treatment of keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof.

[0007] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition that is useful for remodeling keratinous fibers such as hair, based on a treatment of the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, which can provide the keratinous fibers with more durable remodeling effects.

[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition intended for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; b. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; and c. at least one aminosilicone.

[0009] The quantity of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, and more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] Compound (d) can be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof, and a mixture of these.

[0011] The quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less and, more preferably, 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] Aminosilicone (c) may be selected from the group consisting of amodimethicone, aminopropyldimethicone and a mixture of these.

[0013] The quantity of aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) water.

[0015] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one betaine compound.

[0016] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty amine.

[0017] The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.

[0018] The composition according to the present invention may not comprise any ammonia or thiol compound, or may comprise less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably, less than 0.1% by weight of ammonia or thiol compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] The composition according to the present invention may not include any reducing agent or oxidizing agent, or may include less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0020] The composition according to the present invention can be intended for remodeling, preferably for smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a method for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of the composition according to the present invention on keratinous fibers; ii. Optional rinsing of keratinous fibers with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and iii. remodeling, preferably smoothing of keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature of more than 50 °C, more preferably, of more than 100 °C and even more preferably, of more than 150 °C.

[0022] The present invention also relates to a kit for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0023] at least one selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a hairdryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heated iron, heated curler, heated comb or heated hairdryer that is capable of supplying the keratin fibers with a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 1000 °C and more preferably above 150 °C; and

[0024] the composition according to the present invention. Best embodiment of the invention

[0025] After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide a composition that is useful for remodeling keratinous fibers such as hair, based on a treatment of the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, and which can provide the keratinous fibers with more durable remodeling effects.

[0026] Thus, the present invention relates primarily to a composition intended for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one aminosilicone.

[0027] The present invention can improve the remodeling of keratinous fibers such as hair, based on a treatment of the keratinous fibers with glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof, providing more durable remodeling effects.

[0028] The remodeling of keratin fibers, such as hair, here encompasses smoothing or the looping of keratin fibers.

[0029] The present invention can impart more durable remodeling effects to keratinous fibers such as hair. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the remodeling effects of keratinous fibers obtained through the use of a composition comprising only glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the straight or curly shape of keratinous fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss of the straight or curly shape of keratinous fibers over time.

[0030] For example, if keratin fibers are originally wavy, the present invention can offer better prevention against a return of keratin fibers to their original wavy shape, after straightening of the keratin fibers, in particular after shampooing.

[0031] The present invention can also impart sufficient immediate remodeling effects to keratin fibers. Thus, keratin fibers treated with the present invention to be smoothed can exhibit less volume or less frizz due to the reduction of the keratin fiber curls. The remodeling effects imparted by the present invention can last a long time, for example, even after shampooing the keratin fibers. Thus, the present invention can also impart a shape to keratin fibers with good shampoo resistance.

[0032] The present invention can cause less damage to keratin fibers compared to conventional permanent remodeling processes, because the present invention does not require the use of reducing / oxidizing agents. Consequently, it can be easy to comb the keratin fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be easy to manage. Furthermore, the keratin fibers treated by the present invention can be more resistant than those treated by conventional permanent remodeling technologies.

[0033] Furthermore, the present invention may use little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and consequently, the odor during the use of the present invention may be reduced compared to conventional processes that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention may offer ease of use, for example, a short processing time.

[0034] We will describe the present invention in detail below. [Composition]

[0035] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; a. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one aminosilicone.

[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention should be a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for remodeling keratin fibers, and even more preferably, a cosmetic composition for remodeling keratin fibers in a single step. It is particularly preferable that the keratin fibers be hair.

[0037] (Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives)

[0038] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

[0039] Only one type of compound (a) may be used, or two or more different types of compounds (a) may be used in combination.

[0040] Compound (a) is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof. In other words, compound (a) is selected from glyoxylic acid and derivatives thereof.

[0041] Examples of glyoxylic acid solvates include, for instance, glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

[0042] Examples of glyoxylic acid salts include alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

[0043] Examples of glyoxylic acid esters include alkyl esters of glyoxylic acid such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

[0044] Examples of glyoxylic acid amides include, for instance, N- glyoxyloylcarbocysteine ​​and the amino acids of N-glyoxyloyl keratin.

[0045] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as compound (a).

[0046] The quantity of the compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The quantity of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 14% by weight, and more preferably less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0048] Thus, the quantity of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to less than 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to less than 14% by weight and more preferably, from 1% to less than 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] In one embodiment, the quantity of compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 12% by weight or less, preferably 11% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Thus, in this embodiment, the quantity of the compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 11% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] (Ketonic acid)

[0052] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Two or more of the compounds (b) may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of compound (b) or a combination of different types of compounds (b) may be used.

[0053] Ketone acids can be selected from α-keto acids, γ-keto acids, γ-keto acids and mixtures thereof.

[0054] α-Aketone acids can be compounds represented by the general formula (I):

[0055] R'-C(=O)-COOH (I)

[0056] in which • R1 designates a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0057] Examples of α-keto acid include pyruvic acid.

[0058] [3-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (II):

[0059] R2-C(=O)-R3-COOH (II)

[0060] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH, or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and • R3 designates a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0061] Examples of [3-keto acid include acetoacetic acid.

[0062] γ-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (III):

[0063] R2-C(=O)-R4-COOH (III)

[0064] in which • R2 denotes a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH, or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and • R4 designates an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

[0065] Examples of γ-keto acids include levulinic acid.

[0066] Ketone acid salts can be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketone acid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketone acid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketone acid.

[0067] It is preferable to use, as compound(s) (b), y-keto acid, and more preferably, levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof such as sodium levulinate.

[0068] The quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] The quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less and, more preferably, 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] Thus, the quantity of the compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] In one embodiment, the quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Thus, in this embodiment, the quantity of compound(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] In another embodiment, compound(s) (b) may be present in a smaller quantity than compound(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention. For example, the weight ratio of the quantity of compound(s) (a) to the quantity of compound(s) (b) included in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1:1 to 15:1, preferably from 1:1 to 10:1, and more preferably from 1:1 to 4:1.

[0074] (Aminosilicone)

[0075] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one amino-silicone. Two or more amino-silicones may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of amino-silicone or a combination of different types of amino-silicones may be used.

[0076] As aminosilicone (c), any aminosilicone compound in the field of cosmetics can be used.

[0077] The term "aminosilicone" here refers to a silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or at least one quaternary ammonium group.

[0078] Examples of aminosilicone (c) compounds that can be used in the present invention include: i. Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

[0079] in which x' and y' are independently integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000 g / mol; i. Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B):

[0080] R'aG(3.a)-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'(2.b))mO-SiG(3.a)R'a. (B)

[0081] in which: • G independently designates a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl group, OH, or an alkyl group in C1-C8> e.g. methyl, or an alkoxy group in C1-C8> e.g. methoxy, • a and a' independently denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; • b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1; • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in parallel particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0082] R' independently designates a monovalent group of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

[0083] -NR"-QN(R")2

[0084] -N(R")2

[0085] -N+(R")3 A

[0086] -N+H(R")2 A

[0087] -N+H2(R") A

[0088] -NR"-Q-N+R"H2 A

[0089] -NR"-Q-N+(R")2H A

[0090] -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A,

[0091] in which • R" independently designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group, for example, a Ci-C2O alkyl group; • Q designates a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and • A represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, or iodide.

[0092] A group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" of formula (C): | 9H3 1 | --[O Sâ---1---[O Ss (OS^CH^ | CH3 1 | (0¾ 1 Jn NH (C.:> | | I NH. 1 __ __I m

[0093] in which n and m have the meaning given above, in formula B.The average molecular weight (Mw) of aminosilicone (C) can range from 100,000 to 2,500,000, preferably from 300,000 to 2,000,000 and more preferably from 500,000 to 1,500,000.

[0094] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by silicones of the following formula (D) or (E): CH3 R. çh3 R;--— ~O™Si-- — -O s af O 1 (CHA CH, ch. n NM CH, NHa m

[0095] in which: • m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can go from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Ri, R2 and R3 independently represent a hydroxy or alkoxy group in Ci- C 4> in which at least one of the groups Ri to R3 designates an alkoxy group.

[0096] The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.

[0097] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0098] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of aminosilicone (D) preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

[0099] in which: • p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) goes from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; knowing that p can denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and that q can denote a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; • Ri and R2 independently represent a hydroxy or alkoxy group in CrC4 where at least one of the groups Ri or R2 designates an alkoxy group.

[0100] The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.

[0101] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0102] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of aminosilicone (E) is preferably from 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly from 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.

[0103] Commercial products corresponding to these silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure is different from formula (D) or (E).

[0104] A product containing an aminosilicone of structure (D) is marketed by Wacker under the name BELSIL ADM 652.

[0105] A product containing an aminosilicone of structure (E) is marketed by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300®.

[0106] Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F): ch3 r ç H snr 9^ n çh3 HO—-s—|o—to—j—'10 — Si--1—0-—^!—OH CH, I CH || ? | CH, " H- * -K NH

[0107]

[0108]

[0109]

[0110] ï ; I: $ :^1 | HH, J m in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear. The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of aminosilicone (F) will prefer reasonably from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more specifically, from 3,500 to 200,000. A preferred silicone formula (F) is amodimethicone marketed under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow. Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G): H,( CHg j 0Hs ■If~~ p---If— ch3 ch3 n ch, O Si To i HH! ““ NH. ““ —Y n ÇH, S;—CH, CH, [YES] in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and that m can designate a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 atoms of carbon and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

[0112] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of aminosilicone (G) preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly, from 1,000 to 200,000.

[0113] A silicone having this formula is for example DOWSIL™ 2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow.

[0114] i. Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (H): in which: R5 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C2-Ci8 alkyl or C2-Ci8 alkenyl group, for example methyl; R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular an alkylene group in CrCi8 or a divalent alkylenoxy group in CrCi8, for example in CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or a salt of organic acid (e.g., acetate); r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

[0115] Such aminosilicones are described more particularly in US patent 4,185,087.

[0116] i. Quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): wherein: R7 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl group in C1-C18, an alkenyl group in C2-C18 or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; R6 independently represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular an alkylene group in CrCi8 or a divalent alkylenoxy group in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8, linked to Si via a SiC bond; R8 independently represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a CrCi8 alkyl group, a C2-Ci8 alkenyl group, or a group -R6-NHCOR7; X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride, or a salt of organic acid (e.g. acetate); r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;

[0117] These silicones are described, for example, in the patent application EP-A 0 530 974. i. Aminosilicones of formula (J):

[0118] in which: • Rb R2, R3 and R4 independently designate a Ci-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group; • R5 designates an alkyl radical in CrC4 or a hydroxyl group; • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5; • and in which x is chosen such that the amine index is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g; i. Multiblock polyoxyalkylated aminosilicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylated block containing at least one amine group.

[0119] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating motifs of the following general formulas:

[0120] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R'')-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-]

[0121] or alternatively

[0122] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-]

[0123] in which: • a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, more particularly from 10 to 100; • b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more specifically from 10 to 5,000; • R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; • R independently represents a linear or branched divalent C2-C[2] hydrocarbon group optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as an oxygen; preferably, R independently denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R independently denotes a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group; • R' independently represents a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as an oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- group; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH3 )-CH2-,

[0124] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

[0125] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of the copolymer in a 30% dipropylene glycol solution, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0126] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the above aminosilicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

[0127] We can notably cite silicones marketed under the names SILSOFT A-843 or SILSOFT A+ by Momentive. i. Alkylaminosilicones corresponding to the formulas (K1 and K) below:

[0128] wherein: • R, R' and R" independently represent a hydroxyl or alkyl group in Ci-C4, • A represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the compound is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000;

[0129] in which: • x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5,000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2,000 and in particular, from 100 to 1,000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100; • RI and R2 independently, preferably identical, are linear or branched alkyl groups, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular, 12 to 20 carbon atoms; • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0130] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular, 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.

[0131] In particular, the following divalent groups can be cited: -CH2CH2CH2 - and -CH2 CH(CH3 )CH2 -.

[0132] Preferably, RI and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular, 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably RI and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from among the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0133] Preferably, the silicone has formula (K) with: • x ranging from 10 to 2,000 and in particular from 100 to 1,000; • ranging from 1 to 100;

[0134] A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and, in particular, 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is selected from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and • RI and R2 being independently linear saturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, hept-tadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, RI and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0135] A preferred formula silicone (K) is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone.

[0136] One can cite, in particular, the silicone marketed under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

[0137] The aminosilicones of this disclosure may also be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, for example terminal or lateral aminopropyl groups, for example those of formula (A), (B) or (C): Hh / OR \ CM 1LNUH Ol a'H t U AH' " ■ 4 .....' ] OJI naked, \ naked / "or ' \ " * x» (A) (C)

[0138] In formula (A): the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of silicone is between 500 and 55,000. Examples of aminosilicone (A) include those marketed under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.

[0139] In formula (B), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the silicone is between 1,000 and 55,000. Examples of silicone (B) include those marketed under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin-Etsu Chemical.

[0140] In formula (C), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the silicone is between 500 and 3,000. As an example of silicone (C), we can cite those marketed under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0141] Preferably, the aminosilicone (c) according to the present invention is amodimethicone such as amodimethicone marketed under the name KF 8020 from the supplier Shin-Etsu Chemical, or the name SILSOFT 253 from the supplier MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS. Another preferred aminosilicone is an amodimethicone of formula (F) marketed under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow.

[0142] In other embodiments, the aminosilicone (c) according to the present invention is selected from bis-cetearyl amodimethicone (marketed under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive).

[0143] Another preferred aminosilicone (c) that can be used in the composition of the present invention is aminopropyldimethicone, for example, aminopropyldimethicone marketed under the name KF-8015 from Shin-Etsu Chemical.

[0144] Aminosilicones suitable for use according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched aminosilicones having a viscosity ranging from 5x106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25 °C, for example, from 1x105 to 1 m2 / s.

[0145] It is preferable to choose aminosilicone (c) from the group consisting of aminodimethicone, aminopropyldimethicone and a mixture of these.

[0146] The amount of aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0147] The quantity of aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] Thus, the quantity of aminosilicone or aminosilicones (c) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] (Water)

[0150] The composition according to the present invention may include (d) water.

[0151] Thus, if the composition according to the present invention comprises water (d), the composition according to the present invention is not anhydrous.

[0152] The quantity of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] Furthermore, the quantity of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] The quantity of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] (Betaine compound)

[0156] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one betaine compound. Only one type of betaine compound (e) may be used, or two or more different types of compounds (e) may be used in combination.

[0157] The expression "betaine compound" herein denotes an amphoteric compound having a positively charged cationic fraction and a negatively charged anionic fraction, in which no hydrogen atom is bonded to a positively charged atom in the positively charged cationic fraction and the positively charged cationic fraction may not be adjacent to the negatively charged anionic fraction.

[0158] For the purposes of the present invention, the betaine (e) compound here is not a surfactant, which comprises at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part.

[0159] The positively charged cationic fraction in the betaine (e) compound includes, but is not limited to, a quaternary ammonium cation, a phosphonium cation, and a sulfonium cation. Preferably, the betaine (e) compound includes a quaternary ammonium cation as the positively charged cationic fraction.

[0160] The negatively charged anionic fraction in the betaine (e) compound includes, but without being limited to it, a carboxylate union.

[0161] The betaine (e) compound may be selected from the group consisting of trimethylglycine, carnitine, L-proline betaine or stachydrine, and mixtures thereof, and may preferably be trimethylglycine.

[0162] The amount of the betaine compound(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] On the other hand, the quantity of the betaine compound(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] The quantity of the betaine compound(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] (Fat amine)

[0166] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty amine. Two or more fatty amines may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty amine or a combination of different types of fatty amines may be used.

[0167] By "fatty amines" is meant primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylated, or salts thereof. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not quaternized. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0168] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one fatty amine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

[0169] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one fatty amine selected from among the tertiary fatty amines.

[0170] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty tertiary amines selected from fatty amidoamines.

[0171] The fatty amine (f) which can be used in the context of the present invention can be selected from the fatty amines of formula (IV) below:

[0172] RN(R')2(IV)

[0173] in which: • R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 6 to 30 atoms of carbon, preferably of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular, a C6-C3O alkyl radical, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a C6-C3O alkyl radical, better still a C8-C24, linear or branched, or a C6-C3O alkenyl radical, preferably C8-C24, linear or branched; and • R', which may be identical or different, represent a radical hy monovalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted drocarbon containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0174] The fatty amine (f) corresponding to formula (IV) above may be chosen, for example, from dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltal-lowamine, dimethylsoyamine and mixtures thereof.

[0175] The fatty amine (f) which can be used in the context of the present invention can also be chosen from fatty amidoamines, preferably fatty amidoamines of formula (V) below:

[0176] R-CO-N(H)-R”-N(R’)2 (V)

[0177] in which:

[0178] R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a C5-C29 alkyl radical, even better a C5-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched;

[0179] R'1, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical divalent containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms; and

[0180] R', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical monovalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0181] The fatty amine (f) corresponding to the formula (V) above may be chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, lacocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkami-dopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicami-dopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] Preferably, the fatty amine (f) can be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, preferably from among the fatty amidoamines of formula (V) above.

[0183] It is preferable that the fatty amine (f) be stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0184] The chemical structure of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine can be represented by the formula (VI) below: I (VI) O

[0185] in which • R denotes an alkyl group in Cp for stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0186] Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprise stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0187] The amount of the fatty amine or amines (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] The amount of the fatty amine or amines (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] Thus, the quantity of the fatty amine or amines (f) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] (Oil)

[0191] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0192] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid, paste, or solid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oil(s) (g), those generally used in Cosmetic oils can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0193] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture of these.

[0194] The oil (f) may be chosen from the group consisting of vegetable or animal origin oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

[0195] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0196] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0197] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0198] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0199] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0200] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols in C4-C26, can also be used.

[0201] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; trii-socetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0202] Sugar acid esters and diesters can be used as ester oils C6-C30 fats, and preferably C12-C22 fats. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon compounds containing oxygen, several alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0203] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0204] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30 and preferably in C[2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0205] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0206] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0207] More specifically, monoesters and diesters are used, in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0208] One example that can be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0209] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for instance, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0210] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, tri- glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0211] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0212] Preferably, silicone oils are selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0213] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

[0214] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0215] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0216] cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 marketed by Union Carbide, with the formula: q D ...------og —? ÇHa '--------------------------------J with D”: ° ~~ with D?: "" & ™ O -

[0217] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and d'oxy-l,r-bis(2,2',2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0218] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0219] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0220] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • the oils from the Mirasil® range marketed by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0221] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0222] Silicones containing aryl groups include polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be cited include products marketed under the following names: • Rhodia's Silbione® oils in the 70 641 range; • the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • DOWSIL™ 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow; • silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as product PK20; • certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0223] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu Chemical, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0224] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from: • Lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.

[0225] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0226] It is preferable that the oil (g) be chosen from polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably monoester oils.

[0227] The quantity of oil or oils (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] Furthermore, the quantity of oil or oils (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] The quantity of oil or oils (g) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Fat alcohol]

[0230] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one fatty alcohol. Only one type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohol may be used in combination.

[0231] The term "fatty" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. A fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0232] The fatty alcohol (h) may have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 atoms of carbon, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is chosen from among the alkyl groups in the C2-C24 and alkenyl groups in the C2-C24. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0233] By way of non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol (h), examples include lauric alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, pannitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

[0234] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0235] Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohols can coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0236] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0237] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol (h) be chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

[0238] The amount of alcohol or fatty alcohols (h) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0239] Furthermore, the quantity of alcohol or fatty alcohols (h) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0240] The quantity of alcohol or fatty alcohols (h) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0241] (pH)

[0242] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably of 6 or less and more preferably of 5 or less, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0243] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 or more, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0244] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably of 3 to 6 and more preferably of 3 to 5, which is measured at 25 °C.

[0245] (Alkaline agent)

[0246] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkali agent. Two or more alkali agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkali agent or a combination of different types of alkali agents may be used.

[0247] The alkaline agent is different from the fatty amine (f).

[0248] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention include one or more alkaline agent(s), if compound (a) or compound (b) can be used to reduce the pH of the composition.

[0249] The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. Preferably, the alkali agent should be non-volatile. Preferably, the inorganic alkali agent should be chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0250] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable as inorganic alkali metals.

[0251] The alkali agent may be an organic alkali agent. It is preferable that the organic alkali agent be chosen from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

[0252] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl groups in the C1-C4 position. In particular, alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0253] Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below: Rx R (B)

[0254] in which W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a Ci-C4 hydroxyl or alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a CrC4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

[0255] The quantity of the alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0256] Furthermore, the quantity of the alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0257] Thus, the quantity of alkali agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0258] (Acid)

[0259] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid that is different from compound (a) or compound (b). Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0260] The acid can be used to correct the pH of the composition according to the present invention.

[0261] As an acid, mention can be made of all inorganic or organic acids that are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl). HCl is preferable.

[0262] The quantity of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0263] Furthermore, the quantity of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0264] Thus, the quantity of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0265] (Other optional ingredients)

[0266] The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one other optional ingredient, selected in particular from: anionic surfactants and Amphoteric agents; thickeners; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents such as benzoic acid; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol; chelating agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, particularly conditioning polymers such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents; and surfactants, including anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.

[0267] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and caprylyl glycol; other polyols such as glycerol; and ethers such as monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of propylene glycol and monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of butylene glycol.

[0268] Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal quantities that can be easily determined by those skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight. Those skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions used for the present invention.

[0269] (Ammonia and thiol compound)

[0270] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention should be free of ammonia or thiol compounds. The expression "free of ammonia or thiol compounds" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or thiol compound.

[0271] Due to the very small amount or absence of ammonia and / or thiol compound, the bad odor during the use of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.

[0272] The compound thiol here refers to a compound which has at least one thiol group (-SH).

[0273] The thiol compound can be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent can be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine ​​and its derivatives, including its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alcanoylcysteine ​​and alkyl esters of cysteine; thioglycerin and its derivatives, including its s-alkyl derivatives; and salts thereof.

[0274] Examples of the above-mentioned salts include ammonium salts; primary, secondary, or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts; and alkaline earth metal salts. Examples of primary, secondary, or tertiary amines include monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, and triethanolamine, respectively.

[0275] Other examples of thiol reducing agents include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercapto alkyl amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives; thiomalic acid; panthetin; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomer-captoalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomer-captoalkylamides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2 / 3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application No. 2 679 448.

[0276] (Reducing agent and oxidizing agent)

[0277] The composition according to the present invention may include a reducing agent; however, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention include a reduced amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent, preferably be free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

[0278] The expression "free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.

[0279] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

[0280] The non-thiol reducing agent herein means a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones, and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites, and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

[0281] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.

[0282] (Form)

[0283] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition according to the present invention includes at least one oil); a soft consistency suspension or emulsion of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

[0284] The compositions used for the present invention may be in any pharmaceutical form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any hair treatment in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel, or similar product.

[0285] The composition according to the present invention can be used to treat, preferably remodel and more preferably smooth keratinous fibers such as hair. [Process]

[0286] The present invention also relates to a method for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of the composition according to the present invention on keratinous fibers; i. Optional rinsing of keratinous fibers with or without drying of the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and ii. remodeling, preferably smoothing, of keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature of more than 50 °C, more preferably, of more than 100 °C and even more preferably, of more than 150 °C.

[0287] Details of the composition used in the process according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Composition] above.

[0288] The process according to the present invention is intended for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers, such as hair, more preferably for long-term smoothing and even more preferably for smoothing even after several shampoos. In this sense, the process according to the present invention can be a semi-permanent remodeling, preferably smoothing, process.

[0289] It is preferable to clean the keratin fibers before step (i). This cleaning step can be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratin fibers and then rinsing them. After rinsing, the keratin fibers can be dried. It is preferable that the keratin fibers be damp just before step (i).

[0290] In step (i), the composition according to the present invention, which is explained above, is applied to keratinous fibers such as hair. The application of the composition according to the present invention can be carried out by any means, such as a brush or a comb.

[0291] The bath ratio of the composition applied according to the present invention to the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

[0292] It may be possible, after the application of the composition according to the present invention, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate the keratinous fibers.

[0293] After step (i), the process according to the present invention may include the optional step of (ii) rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing.

[0294] Thus, if step (ii) is present, the keratin fibers are rinsed to remove the composition according to the present invention from the keratin fibers. The rinsing step can be carried out with water. It is preferable that the keratin fibers not be dried after rinsing. Drying of the keratin fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying method such as a hairdryer.

[0295] On the other hand, if step (ii) is not present, the keratinous fibers may be treated by step (iii) after step (i), without rinsing.

[0296] In step (iii), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are subjected to remodeling, preferably smoothing, preferably at a temperature above 50 °C, more preferably above 100 °C, and even more preferably above 150 °C, with a heating element, such as a heated iron or a heated curling iron. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C, and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

[0297] Reshaping can be carried out by supplying the keratin fibers with any mechanical force such as mechanical tension. Mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any reshaping means to deform the keratin fibers into a desired shape. For example, mechanical power can be supplied by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curler, at least one comb, and a combination thereof. Any conventional iron, curler, or comb can be used as a reshaping means. A dryer that can blow gas such as air can also be used as a reshaping means.

[0298] The reshaping means may include at least one heating element. Thus, the reshaping means may be at least one heated iron and / or at least one heated curler and / or at least one heated comb and / or at least one heated hair dryer that can blow hot gas such as hot air. It may be preferable to use at least one heated iron and / or at least one heated curler.

[0299] As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electric heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratin fibers and moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to smooth them.

[0300] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratin fibers to smooth them.

[0301] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a part thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50 °C and less than 250 °C, more preferably, of more than 100 °C and less than 240 °C, and even more preferably, of more than 150 °C and less than 230 °C.

[0302] Step (iii) can be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron through the direction of the keratin fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.

[0303] The heating time can depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of times the heating iron is passed over it. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0304] Any conventional heated roller can be used as a heated curler. If the keratin fibers are wrapped around a heated roller, this wrapping can be done along the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half their length. Depending, for example, on the desired hairstyle and the number of curls, the wrapping can be done with thicker or thinner sections of hair.

[0305] It is preferable that the heated curler, in particular a part thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating rod or a heating sleeve, has a temperature of more than 50 °C and less than 250 °C, more preferably, of more than 100 °C and less than 240 °C, and even more preferably, of more than 150 °C and less than 230 °C.

[0306] Step (iii) can be carried out by holding the keratin fibers on a heated roller so that mechanical tension is applied to the keratin fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated roller but also by the strength of the mechanical tension.

[0307] The heating time can depend on the temperature of the heating roller but also on the strength of the mechanical tension. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

[0308] If necessary, prior to step (ii), mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers as explained above. [Kit]

[0309] The present invention also relates to a kit for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

[0310] at least one selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a hairdryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heated iron, heated curler, heated comb or heated hairdryer which is capable of supplying the keratin fibers with a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 1000 °C and more preferably above 150 °C; and

[0311] the composition according to the present invention.

[0312] Any conventional iron or curler, including any conventional heated iron or heated curler, can be used as the above iron or curler in the kit according to the present invention.

[0313] The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the fibers keratinous at a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C and more preferably above 150 °C. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

[0314] The iron or curler, as well as the composition, in the kit according to the present invention can be used as explained in the section entitled [Method] above.

[0315] Details of the composition used in the kit according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Composition] above. [Use]

[0316] The present invention may relate to the use of (c) at least one amino-silicone in a composition for remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, preferably with heating, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; and a. at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0317] in order to prolong the remodeling effects for keratin fibers treated by the composition, in particular in order to further maintain the smoothed shape of keratin fibers, or to prevent or reduce waviness of keratin fibers.

[0318] Heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 °C, preferably above 100 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C, and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

[0319] The above composition may further comprise (d) water and / or (e) at least one betaine compound and / or (f) at least one fatty amine and / or (g) at least one oil and / or (h) at least one fatty alcohol.

[0320] The above explanations concerning compound (a), compound (b) and aminosilicone (c), as well as water (d), betaine compound (e), fatty amine (f), oil (g) and fatty alcohol (h), can be applied to those in the above composition used for use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES

[0321] We will describe the present invention in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Examples 1-4 and comparative example 1]

[0322] [Preparation]

[0323] Each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" as raw materials.

[0324] The concentration of amodimethicone or aminopropyldimethicone in the composition according to examples 1 to 4 has been adjusted to be 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0325] [Tables 1] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Comp. ex. 1 Cetearyl alcohol 8 8 8 8 8 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Cetyl esters 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Isopropyl myristate 6 6 6 6 6 Glycerin 4 4 4 4 4 Glyoxylic acid (50% wt. MA) (1) 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 Levulinic acid (60% wt. MA) (2) 1.03 1.03 1.03 1.03 1.03 Betaine 1 1 1 1 1 pH adjuster qs pH 3.2 qs pH 3.2 qs pH 3.2 qs pH 3.2 qs pH 3.2 Ethanol 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-5 (and) amodimethicone (and) trideceth-10 (Wacker BELSIL ADM LOG 1, amodimethicone concentration: 15% by weight) 3.38 Amodimethicone (and) cetrimonium chloride (and) trideceth-3 (and) trideceth-15 (and) acetic acid (Dow DOWSIL 969 Emulsion, amodimethicone concentration: 31% by weight) 1.61 Aminopropyldimethicone (Shin Etsu X-22-9686, aminopropyldimethicone concentration: 55% by weight) - - 0.91 - - Amodimethicone (and) trideceth-6 (and) cetrimonium chloride (Dow MEM-8299 Xiameter, amodimethicone concentration: 57% by weight) 0.88 Preservative 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water q.s. 10 ...

[0326] MA: Active ingredient 1. marketed by the company WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient). 2. marketed by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient). [Reviews]

[0327] Each of the above compositions was used to smooth a strand of hair, and then the strand of hair was evaluated according to the following protocols. 1. A strand of natural, slightly wavy, black Chinese hair, 27 cm in length, was shampooed with an SLES shampoo, the composition of which is indicated in Table 2 below. The strand of hair was rinsed thoroughly with tap water.

[0328] [Tables2] % by weight Water qs 100 Coco-betaine (30% by weight) 9 Sodium laureth sulfate (70% by weight) 15 Polyquaterium-10 0.3 Preservatives 0.7 pH adjuster qs pH 5.3 1. We applied each of the compositions according to examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 in a quantity of 0.6 g on the wet strand of hair. 2. The strand of hair was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). 3. The lock of hair was rinsed thoroughly under tap water. 4. The hair strand was dried with a hair dryer (Nobby NB3100, TESCOM DENKI Co., Ltd, Japan) for approximately 90 seconds until dry. 5. The strand of hair was straightened in 3 passes with a straightening iron (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180°C, 4 seconds / pass. 6. The level of smoothness of the hair strand was visually assessed immediately after step 6 (for the smoothing effect at T0) according to the following criteria.

[0329] 5: Very good

[0330] 4: Good

[0331] 3: Correct

[0332] 2: Bad

[0333] 1: Very bad

[0334] The results are presented to the left of “ / ” on the “Smoothing effects (TO / Tlsh)” line of Table 1. 1. A photo was taken of the hair strand just after step 6, and the surface area (expressed by the number of pixels) of the hair strand was determined using a free software in the public domain, Image J. The results are presented to the left of " / " on the "Surface (TO / Tlsh)" line of Table 1. 2. The hair strand was shampooed again with the SLES shampoo, the composition of which is indicated in Table 2, rinsed thoroughly with tap water and dried with a hairdryer (for about 90 seconds until dry). 3. The level of smoothing and the surface area of ​​the hair strand were reassessed as above (Tlsh). The results are presented to the right of " / " on the "Smoothing Effects (TO / Tlsh)" and "Surface Area (TO / Tlsh)" rows of Table 1. 4. The increased area between T0 and Tlsh was calculated. The results are presented in the "Increased Area (%)" row of Table 1.

[0335] The evaluation results in Table 1 show that the use of an aminosilicone with a combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid can better maintain the smoothed shape of the hair or reduce the increase in hair volume, which reflects hair straightening or waving, than the use of the combination alone. combination of glyoxylic acid and levulinic acid.

Claims

Claims

1. A composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one compound, different from compound (a), selected from the group consisting of ketonic acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one aminosilicone.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein compound (b) is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the aminosilicone (c) is selected from the group consisting of aminodimethicone, aminopropyldimethicone and a mixture thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition further comprises (d) water.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one betaine compound.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one fatty amine.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the pH of the composition is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, which is intended to reshape, preferably smooth, keratinous fibers, such as hair.

9. A method of remodeling, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the following steps: (i) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous fibers; (ii) optionally rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers after rinsing; and (iü) remodeling, preferably smoothing, of keratinous fibers, preferably at a temperature of more than 50°C, more preferably more than 100°C and even more preferably more than 150°C.

10. Kit for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: at least one selected from the group consisting of an iron, a curler, a comb, a dryer and a combination thereof, preferably at least one heated iron, a heated curler, a heated comb or a heated dryer which is capable of providing the keratinous fibers with a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 1000°C and more preferably above 150°C; and the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.