Anhydrous skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials

Abstract

ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND / OR MAKEUP OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS In particular, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising: a) at least one hydrophilic moisturizer; b) at least one N-acylated amino acid having an acyl group at C8-C22; c) at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer; and d) at least one wax. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: ANHYDROUS CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. More particularly, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Lipsticks have been used for many years to accentuate the positive aspects of the wearer's lips. Lipsticks are capable of altering the apparent facial features of the wearer. In addition to altering the shape of the lips, lipsticks can be manufactured in a large number of colors and shades to promote a desired effect or express the mood of the wearer.

[0003] To date, certain prior art documents relating to cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care have been published.

[0004] Lipsticks that offer a matte makeup finish are popular with consumers.

[0005] However, many lipsticks of this type leave lips feeling dry or have the disadvantage of not providing sufficient moisture. Therefore, dry fine lines are frequently observed with dry lips. During the day, the feeling of dryness and tightness of the lips leads to an unpleasant user experience, especially with lipsticks with a matte finish.

[0006] Therefore, there is a need to develop a lipstick that can provide a matte makeup finish and a moisturizing feel. Summary of the invention

[0007] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a lipstick which can provide a matte makeup finish and a feeling of hydration.

[0008] Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the lips, which can provide a matte makeup finish and a feeling of hydration.

[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one hydrophilic moisturizer; b. at least one N-acylated amino acid having a C8-C22 acyl group; c. at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and d. at least one wax.

[0010] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials.

[0011] The inventors have discovered that with the combination of the components a) to d) mentioned above, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention can provide a very matte makeup finish and a feeling of hydration.

[0012] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.

[0014] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0015] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0016] Throughout the present application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0017] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, these small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition which contain it in residual amounts but are not deliberately provided.

[0019] As used herein, the term "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. By "skin" is meant all skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the lips.

[0020] Advantageously, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is solid.

[0021] The term "solid" as used herein means that the hardness of the composition at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm 1 when measured according to the protocol described below.

[0022] The composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

[0023] Hardness can be measured at 20°C by the "butter wire" method, which consists of transversely cutting a rod of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire of 250 μm diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / minute.

[0024] The hardness of the samples of compositions of the present invention, expressed in Nm *, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.

[0025] The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three shear values ​​read using the above-mentioned tensile testing machine, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

[0026] Hardness is converted to Nm 1 by the equation below:

[0027] (Y x 103 x 9.8) / L

[0028] For a measurement at a different temperature, the composition is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

[0029] According to this measuring method, the composition according to the present invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure greater than or equal to 40 Nm 1 and preferably greater than 75 Nm1. Thus, these compositions can be formulated in a standard packaging which does not require any composition support means.

[0030] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has in particular a hardness at 20°C of less than 200 Nm1, and preferably of less than 160 Nm1.

[0031] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one hydrophilic moisturizer; b. at least one N-acylated amino acid having a C8-C22 acyl group; c. at least one emulsifying elastomer, and d. at least one wax. Hydrophilic moisturizer(s)

[0032] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic moisturizer.

[0033] Advantageously, said hydrophilic moisturizer is chosen from polyhydric alcohols, C-glycosides and mixtures thereof.

[0034] As used herein, the term "polyhydric alcohol" means an alcohol comprising more than one hydroxyl.

[0035] Preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from the compounds of formula (I):

[0036] X—R (I) S—' G)

[0037] in which: • R represents a saturated C1 to C10 alkyl radical, in particular C1 to C4 which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, • S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, knowing that said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and • X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

[0038] the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be α or [3, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers and their mixtures.

[0039] The C-glycosides used for implementing the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear alkyl radical of C1 to C6, in particular C1 to C4, preferably C1 to C2 and more preferably a methyl radical.

[0040] Among the alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made in particular of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl groups.

[0041] According to one embodiment of the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) may be used for which S may represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally a or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R otherwise retaining all the above definitions.

[0042] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention may be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.

[0043] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which may advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.

[0044] More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.

[0045] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used for which: • R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C2, in particular a methyl radical; • S represents a monosaccharide as described above and chosen in particular from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; • X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2) and, preferably a -CH(OH)- group.

[0046] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid. Also included are salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. Particular examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0047] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) may be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or several nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; in particular, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol may be mentioned. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned.

[0048] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0049] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or in a mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.

[0050] A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis method described in document WO 02 / 051828.

[0051] In particular, by way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycoside compounds which are particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned:

[0052] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0053] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0054] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0055] - C-a- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0056] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0057] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0058] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0059] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

[0060] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0061] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0062] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0063] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0064] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0065] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0066] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0067] - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0068] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0069] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0070] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0071] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

[0072] - CPD-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0073] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0074] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0075] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

[0076] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.

[0077] According to a specific embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) provided as a solution containing 70% by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.

[0078] Preferably, the hydrophilic moisturizer is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, panthenol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Preferably, the hydrophilic moisturizer is chosen from glycerin, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Advantageously, the hydrophilic moisturizer is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 4% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 6% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] N-acyl amino acid before an acyl group at C8-C22

[0082] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one N-acylated amino acid having a C8-C22 acyl group.

[0083] The N-acylated amino acid(s) comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethylhexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group, preferably an acyl group containing from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, more preferably it is a lauroyl group. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.

[0084] Preferably, the N-acylated amino acid is selected from 2-ethylhexanoyl lysine, lauroyl lysine, myristoyl lysine, palmitoyl lysine, stearoyl lysine, cocoyl lysine, 2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid, caproyl glutamic acid, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, 2-ethylhexanoyl alanine, caproyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, cocoyl alanine and a combination thereof.

[0085] Most preferably, the N-acylated amino acid is lauroyl lysine.

[0086] The N-acylated amino acid may be a lauroyl lysine powder such as the product sold under the name Amihope LL by the company Ajinomoto or the product sold under the name Corum 5105 S by the company Corum.

[0087] Advantageously, the N-acylated amino acid is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. EMULSIFYING SILICONE ELASTOMER

[0088] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer.

[0089] As used herein, an emulsifying silicone elastomer means an organopolysiloxane elastomer containing a hydrophilic chain.

[0090] Preferably, the emulsifying silicone elastomer is chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers.

[0091] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and a polyoxyalkylenated containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.

[0092] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (Bl) of polyoxyalkylenated containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (C1) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in US patents 5,236,986 and US 5,412,004.

[0093] In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy termination and methylhydropolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy termination, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0094] Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers can be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenated compounds containing at least two vinyl groups, reacting with the Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.

[0095] The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or at least one silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylenated elastomer may take the form of non-spherical particles.

[0096] The polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in patents US 5,236,986, US 5,412,004, US 5,837,793, and US 1,487.

[0097] As emulsifying silicone elastomers, those having the names Following INCI:

[0098] Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 -Cro s spoly mer,

[0099] PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer,

[0100] PEG-10 / Laury 1 Dimethicone Cro spolymer,

[0101] PEG-12 Dimethicone Cro spolymer,

[0102] PEG-10 Dimethicone Cro spolymer,

[0103] PEG-10 Dimethicone / Viny 1 Dimethicone Cro spolymer,

[0104] PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer,

[0105] and mixtures thereof.

[0106] Advantageously, the emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer selected from dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 crosslinked polymer, and combinations thereof, in an amount ranging from 3% by weight to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0108] In the presence of emulsifying silicone elastomer, a matte makeup finish can be provided.

[0109] In addition to the emulsifying silicone elastomer, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, preferably chosen from dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer and mixtures thereof.

[0110] Where appropriate, the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight. Waxes

[0111] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one wax.

[0112] The term "wax" designates a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which can go up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

[0113] Preferably, the wax is chosen from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, C20-40 alkyl stearate and mixtures thereof.

[0114] More preferably, the wax is chosen from polyethylene wax, C20-40 alkyl stearate and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Preferably, the polyethylene wax has a weight average molecular weight of 300 to 5000, preferably 400 to 3000.

[0116] Preferably, the wax is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] Advantageously, the polyethylene wax is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] Advantageously, the C20-40 alkyl stearate is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 12% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] Fatty acid glyceryl monoesters and fatty acid polyglyceryl esters

[0120] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from fatty acid glyceryl monoesters, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters and their mixture.

[0121] Glyceryl monoesters of fatty acids suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, glyceryl monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, including 16-22 carbon atoms.

[0122] Preferably, the fatty acid glyceryl monoester is chosen from glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monostearate (or glyceryl stearate), glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate and mixtures thereof.

[0123] More preferably, the fatty acid glyceryl monoester used in the composition of the present invention is glyceryl monostearate (or glyceryl stearate).

[0124] Fatty acid polyglyceryl esters suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0125] Preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is selected from esters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0126] More preferably, the fatty acid polyglycerol ester is chosen from caprate polyglyceryl-4, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, poly-glyceryl-4 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 decalinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 decaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 de-castearate, polyglyceryl-3 dicaprate, poly-glyceryl-3 dicocoate, polyglyceryl-10 didecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 düsostearate, polyglyceryl-3 dü-sostearate, polyglyceryl-4 düsostearate, poly-glyceryl-10 düsostearate, polyglyceryl-4 dilaurate, polyglycerin-2 dioleate, polyglyceryl-3 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxy stearate, polyglyceryl-2 distearate, polyglyceryl-3 distearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate,polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 hep-tastearate, polyglyceryl-6 hexaoleate, poly-glyceryl-10 hexaoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isopalmitate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, poly-glyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate / sebacate, poly-glyceryl-4 laurate / succinate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, poly-glyceryl-10 laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 oleate, Polyglyceryl-8 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, Polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 pentalaurate,polyglyceryl-10 pentalinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-3 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 pentari-cinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-6 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-6 tetraoleate, poly-glyceryl-10 tetraoleate, polyglyceryl-2 tetrastearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 trioleate, polyglyceryl-4 tristearate, polyglyceryl-10 tristearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester suitable for the composition of the present invention is chosen from polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0128] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises a non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, polyglyceryl-3 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, poly-glyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate and mixtures thereof.

[0129] In certain more preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises a nonionic surfactant selected from glyceryl monostearate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Where appropriate, advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant chosen from glyceryl monoesters of acid and polyglyceryl esters of fatty acid is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils)

[0131] Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil.

[0132] Herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0133] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as an ester oil or a fatty alcohol; or a mixture thereof.

[0134] The oil may be a vegetable oil or a synthetic oil.

[0135] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, canola oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0136] Examples of synthetic oils include ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

[0137] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0138] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0139] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.

[0140] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.

[0141] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0142] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.

[0143] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isonanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isostearate isopropyl, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0144] Examples of ester oils also include triglycerides, for example, caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) (or caprylic / capric triglyceride), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0145] Examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as methylpolysiloxane, caprylyl methylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, do-decamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0146] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0147] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: i. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms; and ii. linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 106 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0148] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0149] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

[0150] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiaryl-siloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0151] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • linear or branched, optionally cyclic, lower alkanes, C6- Ci6. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, e.g. isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.

[0152] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0153] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one oil selected from silicone oils and ester oils, preferably selected from organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as methylpolysiloxane, caprylyl methylpolysiloxane and dimethylpolysiloxane, and triglycerides such as caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tri-palmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) (or caprylic / capric triglyceride) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0154] Where appropriate, advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one oil selected from organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, triglycerides, and mixtures thereof in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Dyes

[0156] The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one colorant.

[0157] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “colorant” designates a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

[0158] The dye considered in the context of the present invention may be chosen from water-soluble or water-insoluble, liposoluble or non-lipo-soluble dyes. soluble, organic or inorganic, and materials with optical effect, and their mixtures.

[0159] Examples of colorants include pigments such as Yellow 6 Lake, Red 7, and titanium dioxide.

[0160] Where appropriate, advantageously, the colorant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 35% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Inorganic fillers

[0161] Preferably, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more inorganic fillers,

[0162] Preferably, the inorganic filler is chosen from silicas.

[0163] Where appropriate, the one or more inorganic fillers are present in an amount ranging from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight, from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0164] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more other ingredients generally used in the field under consideration.

[0165] For example, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise other ingredients selected from polymers for improving wear, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, anti-aging agents, collagen protective agents and mixtures thereof.

[0166] It is routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the other ingredients present in the compositions in accordance with the present invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the intended addition.

[0167] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0168] a) from 2% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one hydrophilic moisturizer;

[0169] b) from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight of N-acylated amino acid;

[0170] c) from 1% by weight to 25% by weight of at least one emulsifying elastomer; and

[0171] d) from 1% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one wax.

[0172] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0173] a) from 6% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one hydrophilic moisturizer chosen from glycerin, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and mixtures thereof;

[0174] b) from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight of lauroyl Plant;

[0175] c) from 4% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one emulsifying elastomer chosen among dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 crosslinked polymer, and combinations thereof; and

[0176] d) from 5% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one wax chosen from polyethylene wax, C20-40 alkyl stearate and mixtures thereof. Dosage form

[0177] The anhydrous composition of the present invention is suitable for use as a skin care and / or makeup product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of lipstick, and so on.

[0178] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.

[0179] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for / making up keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials.

[0180] In particular, the keratinous material is the skin, especially the lips. Examples

[0181] The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0182] The main raw materials used, trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0183] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier DIMETHICONE (and) DL METHICONE / PEG-10 / 15 CROSSPOLYMER KSG210 SHIN ETSU DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER X-25-7034H SHIN ETSU DIMETHICONE (and) DL METHICONOL CROSSPOLYMER DOWSIL™ EL-9241 DM SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND DOW LAUROYL LYSINE AMIHOPE™ LL AJINOMOTO SILICA BA4 JGC CATALYSTS & CHEMICALS POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIL SOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARA TE / SEBACATE ISOLAN® GPS EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT POLYETHYLENE PERFORMALENE™ 500-L POLYETHYLENE NUCERA SOLUTIONS C20-40 ALKYL STEARATE KESTER WAX K 82 H KOSTER KEUNEN

[0184] Inventive Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

[0185] Lipsticks according to the present invention (El.) 1 and 2 and comparative lipsticks (EC) 1 to 3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as percentages by weight of each material, unless otherwise indicated):

[0186] [Tables2] Components El. 1 EI.2 EC.l EC. 2 EC.3 DIMETHICONE / PEG-10 / 15 CROSSPOLYMER 5 4.95 - - 5 DIMETHICONE / VINYL DL METHICONE CROSSPOLYMER 1.8 3.66 9.6 3.66 1.8 DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER - - - 2.97 - LAUROYL LYSINE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 SILICA 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 DIMETHICONE 19.06 23.25 22.40 25.37 19.06 POLYETHYLENE 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 C20-40 ALKYL STEARATE 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 GLYCERIN 8 8 8 8 - HYDROXYPROPYL TETRA- HYDROPYRANTRIOL 3.15 3.15 3.15 3.15 - PIGMENTS 10 10 10 10 10 POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIL SOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROX YSTEARATE / SEBACATE 4 4 4 4 4 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0187] The compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0188] The composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer.

[0189] The composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer.

[0190] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not include a hydrophilic moisturizer.

[0191] Preparation procedure:

[0192] The detailed procedure for preparing the above lipsticks is as follows: 1. The pigments were ground with caprylic / capric triglycerides in a three-roll mill to obtain a pigment paste; 2. The oils, waxes (polyethylene and C20-40 alkyl stearate), surfactants (polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate), pigment paste obtained in step 1), and silicone elastomer including an emulsifying silicone elastomer (dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosspolymer, if applicable) and a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer, if applicable) were weighed into a main container and the container was heated to about 95°C with stirring until a homogeneous mixture was obtained; 3. Mix the hydrophilic moisturizers (glycerin and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) if applicable until a homogeneous pre-phase is obtained; 4. Add the homogeneous pre-phase (if applicable) obtained by step 3) into the main tank and homogenize the bulk by stirring; 5. Add silica and lauroyl lysine (if used) to the main container with stirring until a homogenized mixture is obtained; 6. Pour the homogenized mixture obtained in step 5) into a lipstick mold preheated to 42+2 °C, leaving the mixture in the mold under 25 °C until solidification; followed by further solidification under -20 °C until the bulk temperature reaches 4+2 °C; and 7. Remove the lipsticks from their lipstick mold.

[0193] Lipstick Rating: Matte effect

[0194] The matte effect provided by the lipsticks obtained above was evaluated by 5 experts by applying lipstick on the upper lip on both sides twice and the lower lip twice using the same strength.

[0195] After application, the lips were held still for 3 minutes, then their matte effect was evaluated.

[0196] Visual attributes were assessed using a mirror to check the degree of light reflection or brightness in the middle of the lower lip.

[0197] Finally, the scores were given by the experts on the matte effect according to the following standard and averaged:

[0198] 5: very good (superior very matte effect);

[0199] 4: essentially good (very matte effect);

[0200] 3: acceptable (moderate matte effect);

[0201] 2: slightly poor and unacceptable (low matte effect);

[0202] 1: poor, not acceptable (weak matte effect superior).

[0203] The scores on the matte effect offered by the lipsticks were summarized in Table 3.

[0204] [Tables3] ELI EL2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC.3 Matte effect 5 5 2 2 3

[0205] The matte effect provided by the lipsticks obtained above was also evaluated with gloss values ​​as follows.

[0206] Films were formed with lipsticks obtained above with an automatic film applicator (Model: byko-drive XL) with a gap depth of 100 pm on a black plate, then dried in an oven at 37°C for 24 hours, then the gloss values ​​at 85° were measured with a gloss measuring device (Model: Multi Gloss 268A) from KONICA MINOLTA.

[0207] The 85° gloss values ​​of the films formed with the lipsticks obtained above were summarized in Table 4.

[0208] [Tables4] ELI EL2 EC.l EC.2 Gloss value at 85° Mean SD Mean SD Mean SD Mean SD 28.1 3.57 23.13 5.78 42.48 3.35 38.71 4.65

[0209] SD: Standard deviation.

[0210] The matte effect is acceptable when the gloss value at 85° is less than 30. It can be seen that the lipsticks of the present invention can provide a good matte effect. Hardness

[0211] The shear value of the lipsticks prepared above was measured at 20°C using the “butter-cutting wire” method, then converted to hardness.

[0212] Shear values ​​reflect the maximum force required to cut the lipstick in compression mode. The shear value is expressed here in grams.

[0213] In particular, the shear value was measured as follows. 1. Place a suitable holding cup on the sample holder; 2. Fully insert the lipstick tube into the collector and lock in place; 3. Pull the stick out completely; 4. Adjust the caliper so that the wire intersects the stick 10 mm from the sample holder; 5. Start the measurement; and 6. Note the value.

[0214] The shear values ​​and hardness of the lipsticks were summarized in Table 5.

[0215] [Tables5] ELI EL 2 EC.l EC. 2 EC.3 Shear value (g) 140.1 143.7 145.8 90.5 144.2 Hardness (Nm1) 124.3 127.4 129.3 80.3 127.9 Hydration

[0216] Hydration was tested as follows.

[0217] 30 women aged 22 to 65 were invited as models.

[0218] Hydration on the lips was assessed on each model, using a SELM-0034-COMB-02 corneometer, by wiping the corneometer probe between each measurement. These measurements were taken at T0 (just before application of the test lipstick), and after 15 minutes (T15min). A single standardized application of the sample was performed by a skin expert on the lips of each model.

[0219] The rounded averages of the values ​​recorded on the corneometer are given in Table 6.

[0220] [Tableauxô] T0 T15min Difference (T15 to T0) ELI 38 53 15 EC.3 38 43 5

[0221] It is noted that in comparison with the reference (T0), the hydration of the lips was significantly improved after the application of the lipstick of inventive example 1 after 15 minutes.

[0222] In summary, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention can provide a very matte makeup finish and a feeling of hydration.

Claims

Claims

1. Anhydrous composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one hydrophilic moisturizer; b) at least one N-acylated amino acid having a C8-C22 acyl group; c) at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and d) at least one wax.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic moisturizer is selected from polyhydric alcohols, C-glycosides and mixtures thereof; preferably, selected from glycerin, panthenol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and mixtures thereof; more preferably, selected from glycerin, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, and mixtures thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the N-acylated amino acid is selected from 2-ethylhexanoyl lysine, caproyl lysine, lauroyl lysine, myristoyl lysine, palmitoyl lysine, stearoyl lysine, cocoyl lysine, 2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid, caproyl glutamic acid, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, 2-ethylhexanoyl alanine, caproyl alanine, lauroyl alanine, myristoyl alanine, palmitoyl alanine, stearoyl alanine, cocoyl alanine and one of their combinations.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the emulsifying silicone elastomer is selected from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, preferably selected from dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosslinked polymer, PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-10 dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, PEG-12 dimethicone / PPG-20 crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising one or more non-emulsifying silicone elastomers selected from dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the wax is selected from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, C20-40 alkyl stearate and combinations thereof, preferably selected from polyethylene wax, C20-40 alkyl stearate and mixtures thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising a non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl monoesters of one or more linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, including 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and esters of one or more linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, including 8 to 22, preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units, preferably selected from glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, polyglyceryl-3 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate,polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 dii-sostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 trii-sostearate, polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.,

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising at least one oil chosen from organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and triglycerides in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising one or more inorganic fillers, preferably chosen from silicas, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous materials, preferably the lips.