Cosmetic treatment process

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for hair, of keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising: - a step of applying a cosmetic composition comprising organosilanes, then - a washing step comprising the application of a cosmetic composition comprising anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, then - a step of applying a cosmetic composition comprising amino acids and hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic treatment process

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method, consisting of applying in a sequential manner, a pre-shampoo cosmetic composition, then a shampoo-type cleansing cosmetic composition, and finally a conditioner-type composition.

[0002] Hair can be weakened or damaged by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and inclement weather, or by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming, and / or straightening. To remedy these problems, it is common to use hair care products that condition the hair. These hair care products can be conditioning shampoos or conditioners, which may be in the form of gels, hair lotions, or creams of varying thicknesses.

[0003] To improve the cosmetic properties of these compositions, it is known to introduce into them conditioning agents intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions which the hair fibers undergo, more or less repeatedly.

[0004] To this end, it has already been proposed to use, among other things, organosilanes in cosmetic care compositions to give hair satisfactory conditioning properties. Such compositions are described, for example, in patent applications FR2910276, EP2343042 and EP2111848.

[0005] However, the hair care compositions described in these documents provide conditioning and detangling properties that do not last long enough. In fact, these properties generally do not withstand washing well and tend to diminish after the first shampoo. In other words, even if these hair care compositions provide acceptable results during and immediately after use, it has been observed that these effects tend to disappear with repeated washings; it is therefore necessary to regularly reapply the hair care products to maintain adequate conditioning effects.

[0006] Application WO2016 / 083578 then proposed a hair care composition capable of providing not only satisfactory but also lasting conditioning properties after washing, for example, lasting at least after 3 shampoos. This hair care composition comprises a combination of organosilanes, high charge density cationic polymers and cationic surfactants.

[0007] A hair treatment method comprising the sequential application of a composition including organosilanes and a hair care or washing composition has also been proposed, for example by EP2111849. This document describes, in particular, the use of a composition including an organosilane as a pre-shampoo treatment, i.e., applied to the hair before washing with a shampoo containing at least one anionic surfactant and one amphoteric surfactant. This method notably results in soft, smooth hair that is easy to detangle.

[0008] However, it is still possible to improve the performance provided by such compositions, in particular in terms of providing strength (denser, more rigid hair), while maintaining a certain lightness (toned and flowing hair) as well as in terms of cosmetic properties such as detangling and smoothing to the touch; and this both immediately, when the composition is applied to the hair (at T0), but also in a residual manner, that is to say after several shampoos, for example residual effect after 2 to 4 shampoos.

[0009] This is the objective sought by the present invention.

[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic treatment process, preferably for hair, of keratin fibers, in particular hair, especially human hair, comprising:

[0011] - a step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers, a composition cosmetic A comprising one or more organosilanes, then

[0012] - a step (ii) of washing said keratin fibers, comprising the application of a cleansing cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic surfactants and / or one or more amphoteric surfactants, then

[0013] - a step (iii) of applying to said keratin fibers, a composition cosmetic C comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0014] The process according to the invention makes it possible to bring strength and resistance to the hair, hence a visible indentation of the fiber, thus leading in particular to a reduction in hair breakage during subsequent styling or blow-drying steps and / or to a reduction in the presence of split ends at the tips of the hair.

[0015] Furthermore, the cosmetic properties of the fiber, such as detangling, smooth feel and elasticity, are improved.

[0016] These properties may be residual to subsequent shampoos, for example residual for up to at least 3 shampoos.

[0017] The cosmetic treatment process according to the invention therefore comprises a step (i) comprising the application to the hair of a cosmetic composition A such that defined below. This composition A is used as a pre-shampoo (before using a shampoo).

[0018] This step may or may not be followed by a pause step, for example a pause time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.

[0019] This step may also optionally be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, before implementation of step (ii). Preferably, said step (i) is not followed by a rinsing step.

[0020] The cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair according to the invention, also includes a washing step (ii), consisting of the application to the hair of a washing cosmetic composition B as defined below.

[0021] This step may or may not be followed by a pause step, for example a pause time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes. It may also be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water.

[0022] Preferably, the process according to the invention includes an intermediate rinsing step between steps (ii) and (iii).

[0023] The cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair according to the invention, also includes a step (iii) consisting of the application to the hair of a cosmetic composition C as defined below, comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0024] This step may or may not be followed by a pause step, for example a pause time of 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes. It may also be followed by a rinsing step, for example with water; and / or a drying step, for example using a hairdryer or in the open air.

[0025] Preferably, the process according to the invention includes a rinsing step and a drying step, after step (iii).

[0026] The application step (i) of composition A and the washing step (ii) with composition B are carried out successively, or sequentially, which means that the application step (i) is carried out before the washing step (ii), intermediate steps, for example of pause and / or rinse, may be present between these two steps.

[0027] The time separating said step (i) of application of composition A (or pre-shampoo) from step (ii) of washing the hair is at most 60 minutes; it can for example be between 30 seconds and 60 minutes, in particular between 1 and 30 minutes, or even between 2 and 20 minutes, even better between 3 and 15 minutes, and especially between 4 and 10 minutes.

[0028] The washing step (ii) and the application step (iii) of composition C are carried out successively, or sequentially, which means that the washing step (ii) is carried out before the application step (iii), intermediate steps, for example pause and / or rinse may be present between these two steps.

[0029] The time separating said washing step (ii) from the application step (iii) of composition C is at most 60 minutes; it can for example be between 30 seconds and 60 minutes, in particular between 1 and 30 minutes, or even between 2 and 20 minutes, even better between 3 and 15 minutes, and especially between 4 and 10 minutes.

[0030] The process according to the invention advantageously provides a visible strengthening of the fiber (= addition of strength) and instant detangling, especially on wet hair, and this in a lasting way to subsequent shampoos, for example lasting up to at least 3 shampoos.

[0031] The invention therefore also relates to the use of said process for the visible strengthening of the fiber (= addition of strength) and / or for improving detangling, in particular on wet hair, and this advantageously in a way that remains effective after subsequent shampoos, for example, lasting up to at least 3 shampoos.

[0032] In the present description, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted for it; the expression "between x and y" is equivalent to the expression "from x to y" and may be substituted for it, and implies that the bounds are included. A / Step (i) of application

[0033] The cosmetic treatment process according to the invention therefore includes a step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers, a cosmetic composition A comprising one or more organosilanes.

[0034] This cosmetic, or even hair, composition can be described as a pre-shampoo. 1 / Organosilanes

[0035] Composition A used according to the process of the invention comprises one or more organosilanes.

[0036] The organosilane(s) are preferably chosen from compounds of formula (I) and / or their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products:

[0037] RlSi(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y (I)

[0038] in which:

[0039] - RI is a C1-C22 hydrocarbon chain, particularly a C2-C20 chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, which may be substituted by a group chosen from among the amine groups NH2 or NHR (R being a linear or branched alkyl in C1-C20, particularly in C1-C6, or a cycloalkyl in C3-C40 or an aromatic radical in C6-C30); the hydroxyl group (OH), a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl) substituted or not by an NH2 or NHR group; RI may be interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO);

[0040] - R2 and R3, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0041] - y denotes an integer from 0 to 3,

[0042] - z denotes an integer from 0 to 3, and

[0043] - x denotes an integer from 0 to 2, with z+x+y=3.

[0044] By oligomer, we mean the polymerization products of compounds of formula (I) containing 2 to 10 silicon atoms.

[0045] Preferably, RI is a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon chain, in C1-C22, in particular C1-C12, preferably linear, which can be substituted by an amine group NH2 or NHR (R= alkyl in C1-C20, in particular in C1-C6).

[0046] Better, RI is a C1-C12, in particular C2-C6, linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon chain substituted by an amine group NH2. Preferably, RI represents an aminoalkyl group in C2-C6, preferably in C2-C4.

[0047] Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better a linear alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group.

[0048] Preferably z varies from 1 to 3. Preferably, y=0. Preferably z = 3, and therefore x=y=0.

[0049] Preferably, the organosilanes used in the context of the invention correspond to the formula (I) in which RI is a Cl-Cl 2 hydrocarbon chain, in particular C2-C6, linear or branched, saturated, substituted by an amine group NH2, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and z = 3 (and therefore x=y=0).

[0050] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes selected from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, rhexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES); 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropyl methyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl-aminomethyl)-phenethyltrimethoxysilane, and their oligomers, and / or mixtures thereof; and more particularly selected from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) and 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) and their oligomers, their hydrolysis products and / or mixtures; and even better selected from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), its oligomers and / or its hydrolysis products.

[0051] Preferably, the organosilane(s) are present in composition A according to the invention in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably with a total content of 6 to 20% by weight, preferably 7 to 15% by weight, better 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Preferably, the organosilane(s) corresponding to formula (I) in which RI is a C1-C12, in particular C2-C6, linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon chain substituted by an amine group NH2, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and z = 3 (and therefore x=y=0) are present in composition A according to the invention in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a total content of 6 to 20% by weight, preferably 7 to 15% by weight, better 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Preferably, the organosilane(s) selected from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), its oligomers and / or its hydrolysis products are present in composition A according to the invention in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a total content ranging from 6 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7 to 15% by weight, better from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 2 / Cationic polymers

[0054] The cosmetic composition A used in step (i) may advantageously comprise one or more cationic polymers.

[0055] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-siliconized polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or ionizable groups into anionic groups.

[0056] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better greater than or equal to 5 meq / g, or even ranging from 5 to 20 meq / g.

[0057] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of polymer under conditions where the polymer is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the polymer structure is known, that is, the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

[0058] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.

[0059] The cationic polymers that may be used may be associative or non-associative, preferably non-associative.

[0060] An "associative polymer" is defined as an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises in its chemical structure at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group. In particular, the hydrophobic group may be a fatty hydrocarbon chain such as a linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, or linear or branched alkylaryl group comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0061] Among cationic polymers, we can mention:

[0062] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs: —CH —C— —CH2 C— —CH —C— Ç o=c oZ=co=c 0=cr O è NH NH x- Â X' À I । IL NR,—N+-R, N R4——Rs / \ * I “ / \ I R2 R1 R5 Rs

[0063] in which:

[0064] - R3, identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

[0065] - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0066] - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0067] - RI and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

[0068] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a me- anion thosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

[0069] The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that can be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

[0070] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention:

[0071] - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

[0072] - acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl chloride copolymers Ammonium, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

[0073] - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl- Ammonium, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

[0074] - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quantified or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937";

[0075] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinyl- terpolymers pyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

[0076] - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;

[0077] - the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers qua- ternized, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

[0078] - polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4) salts trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA. Alternatively, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used.These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA.

[0079] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and ga- gums Cationic lactomannans. Among the cationic polysaccharides, we can mention in particular cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0080] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597, and examples include polymers marketed under the names "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a tri-methylammonium group.

[0081] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US patent 4131576, and examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyl diallylammonium. The marketed products meeting this definition are, more specifically, the products sold under the names "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0082] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in patents US3589578 and US4031307, and examples include guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. For instance, guar gums modified with a salt (e.g., a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed, notably under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17, or JAGUAR C162 by the company RHODIA.

[0083] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched hydroxyalkylene chains, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0084] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycon densification of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, or an epihalohydrin.

[0085]

[0086]

[0087]

[0088]

[0089]

[0090]

[0091] lohydrine, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the poly-aminoamide; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated or, if they have one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. (5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoylation with bifunctional agents. Examples include adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably designates methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy. (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are marketed in particular under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine copolymer. (7) Alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as the main chain constituent motifs conforming to formulas (I) or (II): (CH7)k -(CH Ji-----G R. „ C(R)-CH,- .c' (CHa)k 4CHS>--CRt2 C(R12>CHa- in which - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; - R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, designate an alkyl group in C1-C6, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or RIO and RI 1 may jointly designate, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and RI 1, independently of each other, preferably designate a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0092] - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

[0093] We can cite more particularly the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of dial-lyldimethylammonium and acrylamide marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

[0094] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula: "P5 --N+ -- A. — Nk- b, — ÜH) i! p ;1

[0095] in which:

[0096] - R13, R14, R15 and R16, whether identical or different, represent radicals ali phatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic compounds comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals in Cl-Cl2,

[0097] or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen

[0098] or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

[0099] - Al and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

[0100] - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

[0101] it being understood that Al,R13 andR15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

[0102] Furthermore, if Al designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also designate a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, with n and p, identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D designating:

[0103] a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

[0104] b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

[0105] c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a radical linear or branched hydrocarbon, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-;

[0106] d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH- .

[0107] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.

[0108] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs conforming to the formula: R.; R3 -N^CH,kN- 1 1 R. x R4 (IV)

[0109] in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0110] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, designated Hexadi-methrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

[0111] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising formula motifs (V): — N+ X- । R •kMa (CHA-NH - CO - (CH,) - CO - NH • (CH,). - N+ - A — 06 Y HAS-

[0112] in which:

[0113] - R18, R19, R20 and R21, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

[0114] - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

[0115] - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

[0116] - X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

[0117] - A designates a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents - CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0118] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

[0119] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF

[0120] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

[0121] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:

[0122] (a) one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (A): —CH£—CH — NH2

[0123] (b) optionally one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (B): CH..—CH " | (B) NH CH h O

[0124] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.

[0125] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B).

[0126] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.

[0127] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0128] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

[0129] Cationic polymers chosen from those of the families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above are particularly preferred, especially those of families (1), (2) and (7).

[0130] Among the associative cationic polymers that may be used, the following may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures:

[0131] - (A) cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the The following general formula: RX-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R'

[0132] in which:

[0133] R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

[0134] X and X', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function bearing or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L";

[0135] L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a du-socyanate;

[0136] P and P', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function bearing or not a hydrophobic group;

[0137] Y represents a hydrophilic group;

[0138] r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusively, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusively and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusively,

[0139] n, m, and p are each independently of the others between inclusively 0 and 1000,

[0140] the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0141] Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the R and R' groups at the ends of the chain.

[0142] A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (la) described above in which:

[0143] R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

[0144] X, X' each represent a group L”,

[0145] n and p are integers which are inclusively between 1 and 1000 and L, L', L”, P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0146] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the above formula (la) in which:

[0147] - n=p=0 (the polymers do not have motifs derived from a monomer to amine function, incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation),

[0148] - the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of isocyanate functions, in excess, at the end of the chain, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by hydrophobic group alkylating agents, i.e. compounds of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q designates a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate.

[0149] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the above formula (la) in which:

[0150] R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

[0151] X and X' both independently represent a grouping comprising a quaternary amine,

[0152] n = p = 0, and

[0153] L, L', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0154] The number-average molecular weight (Mn) of cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between inclusively 400 and 500,000, in particular between inclusively 1,000 and 400,000 and ideally between inclusively 1,000 and 300,000.

[0155] By hydrophobic group is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a radical with a perfluorinated or siliconized chain. When it designates a hydrocarbon radical, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0156] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound.

[0157] By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0158] When X and / or X' denote a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulas: R, I ' for X for X'

[0159] in which:

[0160] R2 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P;

[0161] RI and R3, identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O, P;

[0162] A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.

[0163] The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula: —Z -C -NH —R* —NH —C —Z— II OO

[0164] in which:

[0165] Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH- ; and

[0166] R4 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated ring, an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.

[0167] The groups P and P', comprising an amine function, can represent at least one of the following formulas:

[0168] in which:

[0169] R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined previously;

[0170] R6, R8 and R9 have the same meanings as RI and R3 defined previously;

[0171] RIO represents an alkylene group, linear or branched, possibly unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P,

[0172] and A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate.

[0173] As regards the meaning of Y, a hydrophilic group is understood to be a water-soluble group, whether polymeric or not.

[0174] By way of example, when not polymers are involved, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol can be cited.

[0175] When, according to a preferred embodiment, the polymer is hydrophilic, examples include polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, and in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0176] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (la) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds possessing hydrogen-labile functions. The hydrogen-labile functions may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions, which, after reaction with the dii-socyanate functions, give polyurethanes, polyureas, and polythioureas, respectively. The term "polyurethanes" in the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes proper, polyureas, and polythioureas, as well as copolymers of these.

[0177] A first type of compound used in the preparation of polyurethane of formula (la) is a compound comprising at least one amine functional group. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferably it is difunctional, that is to say, according to a preferred embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms attached, for example, to a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine, or thiol functional group. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds may also be used in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

[0178] As previously stated, this compound may comprise more than one amine functional group. It is then a polymer bearing a repetition of the amine functional group.

[0179] This type of compound can be represented by one of the following formulas:

[0180] HZ-(P)n-ZH, or HZ-(P')p-ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are such as defined higher.

[0181] By way of example, we can cite N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0182] The second compound used in the preparation of polyurethane of formula (la) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula:

[0183] O=C=N-R4-N=C=O in which R4 is defined above.

[0184] By way of example, we can cite methylenediphenyldiisocyanate, methylenecyclohexanediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate, toluenediisocyanate, naphthalenediisocyanate, butanediisocyanate, hexanediisocyanate.

[0185] A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (la).

[0186] This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a labile hydrogen function, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

[0187] By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. When this compound has a polymer chain, it may be, for example, alpha-hydroxy hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0188] The hydrophobic group of polyurethane of formula (la) can also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound having at least one tertiary amine motif. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0189] The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hy sequence Drophile. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound used in the polymer preparation. This compound can be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. A mixture with a low percentage of the multifunctional compound is also possible.

[0190] The hydrogen-labile functions are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the ends of the chains by one of these hydrogen-labile functions.

[0191] By way of example, when not polymers are involved, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol can be cited.

[0192] When dealing with a hydrophilic polymer, examples include polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0193] The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (la) is optional. Indeed, the quaternary or protonated amine motifs may be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

[0194] Although the presence of a hydrophilic Y group is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes containing such a group are preferred.

[0195] - (B) quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0196] Preferably, quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0197] Preferably, hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) may be cited:

[0198] in which:

[0199] - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, in C1-C30, and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;

[0200] - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN-i-, Q'- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, in C1-C30, and Q' - represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;

[0201] it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl, linear or branched, in C8-C30;

[0202] - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

[0203] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched alkyl group in the C8-C30 range; more preferably in the C10-C24 range, or even in the C10-C14 range; the dodecyl radical (Cl2) is a particularly good example. Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched alkyl group in the C1-C4 range, in particular a methyl group.

[0204] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, in the C8-C30 range; better still in the C10-C24 range, or even in the C10-C14 range; the dodecyl radical (Cl2) is a particularly good example. Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched alkyl group in the C1-C4 range, especially a methyl group.

[0205] Even better, R can be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.

[0206] Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.

[0207] Aryl radicals preferably refer to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0208] Examples include polymers with the following INCI names:

[0209] - Polyquatemium-24, such as the QUATRISOFT LM 200® product, marketed by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL;

[0210] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®;

[0211] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as CRODACEL QL® product and

[0212] - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl) such as CRODACEL QS® product, marketed by the company CRODA.

[0213] Also noteworthy are hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R representing trimethylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)3N+- and R' representing dimethyldodecylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; commercial products include SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.

[0214] More particularly, polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2000 and 3000 cPs, preferably between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

[0215] - (C) cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising:

[0216] -a) at least one vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type monomer;

[0217] -b) at least one monomer of the following structures (le) or (Ile): R. CH^C(RA-CO -X—(¥)—(CH£-CH2-0 )—— N—R4 R. fc) Z' “ R., CH—C^)-CO-X—(Y)—(CH2-CH2-O)—(CH^-CHCR^O^-CY^-—'N (related]

[0218] in which:

[0219] - X denotes an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical,

[0220] - RI and R6 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical

[0221] - R2 denotes a linear or C1-C4 branched alkyl radical,

[0222] - R3, R4 and R5 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc): :—(CH2-CH(R7)-O)—Rs (IIIc)

[0223] - Y, Y1 and Y2 designate, independently of each other, a linear alkylene radical or branched at C2-C16,

[0224] - R7 designates a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl radical in C1-C4 or a linear or branched Cl-C4 hydroxy alkyl radical,

[0225] - R8 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical in C1-C30,

[0226] - p, q and r denote, independently of each other, 0 or 1;

[0227] - m and n denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging inclusive incrementally from 0 to 100,

[0228] - x denotes an integer from 1 to 100 inclusive,

[0229] - Z denotes an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, such as halide such as chloride or bromide or mesylate;

[0230] subject to the following:

[0231] - at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 designates a linear alkyl radical or branched at C9-C30,

[0232] - if m and / or n is different from zero, then q is equal to 1,

[0233] - if m=n=0, then p or q equals 0.

[0234] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked and can also be block polymers.

[0235] Preferably the counter-ion Z- of the monomers of formula (le) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ion, tosylate ion.

[0236] Preferably R3, R4 and R5 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.

[0237] More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (le) for which, preferably, m and n are equal to zero.

[0238] The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound with (IVc) structure: CH(R )=C(R . (CH2)s

[0239] in which:

[0240] - s denotes an integer from 3 to 6,

[0241] - R9 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical in C1-C5,

[0242] - RIO designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical in C1-C5,

[0243] provided that at least one of the radicals R9 and RIO designates a hydrogen atom.

[0244] Even more preferably, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0245] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic.

[0246] By way of particularly preferred compounds, the following terpolymers may be mentioned, comprising at least:

[0247] a) a monomer of formula (IVc),

[0248] b) a monomer of formula (le) in which p=l, m=n=q=0, R3 and R4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in C1-C5 and R5 designates a linear or branched alkyl radical in C9-C24, and

[0249] c) a monomer of formula (Ile) in which p=l, m=n=q=0, R3 and R4 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical.

[0250] Even more preferably, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40 to 95% monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0251] Cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention include, in particular:

[0252] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate terpolymers of dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium,

[0253] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate terpolymers of cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium,

[0254] - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate terpolymers or lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride.

[0255] The vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryl dimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is notably offered by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10® or Styleze W20L® (INCI name Poly quaternium- 55).

[0256] The molecular weight (Mw) of cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000, more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and preferably between 400,000 and 800,000.

[0257] - (D) cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or several amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO2004 / 024779.

[0258] Among these polymers, we may mention in particular the products of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:

[0259] - a di(C1-C4 alkyl) amino(C1-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,

[0260] - one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,

[0261] - a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of oxide motif) ethylene),

[0262] - an allyl ether of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol 30 / 5,

[0263] - a C2-C6 alkyl hydroxy(hydroxy) methacrylate, and

[0264] - an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0265] Such a polymer is for example the compound marketed by the company LUBRIZOL under the name CARBOPOL AQUA CC® and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer.

[0266] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixtures:

[0267] - alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of salts (e.g. chloride) of di-methyldialylammonium,

[0268] - homopolymers or copolymers, possibly crosslinked, of methacry- salts loyloxyalkyl(C 1-C4)trialkyl(C 1 -C4)ammonium;

[0269] - celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0270] We can mention in particular the polymers having the INCI name: POLY-QUATERNIUM-6, POLYQUATERNIUM-7, POLYQUATERNIUM-37, POLY-QUATERNIUM-10, GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, HY-DROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, alone or in mixtures.

[0271] Even better, the cationic polymers likely to be present in composition A according to the invention are chosen from among the halides, in particular chlorides, of dimethyldialylammonium (Polyquatemium-6).

[0272] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from among the halides, in particular chlorides, of dimethyldialylammonium (Polyquaternium-6).

[0273] Composition A used in step (i) according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount of between 0.01 and 8% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0274] In particular, the composition A used in step (i) according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) selected from, alone or in mixture:

[0275] - alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of salts (e.g. chloride) of di-methyldialylammonium,

[0276] - homopolymers or copolymers, possibly crosslinked, of methacry- salts loyloxy alkyl(C 1-C4)trialkyl(C 1-C4)ammonium;

[0277] - the quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

[0278] in a total quantity of between 0.01 and 8% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% in weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 3 / Amino acid type compounds

[0279] Advantageously, the composition A used in step (i) according to the present invention may comprise one or more amino acid-type compounds.

[0280] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being intra-cyclic, possibly in salt form; said amine function(s) being primary or secondary amine functions.

[0281] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (i.e., not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0282] Preferably, composition A comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts.

[0283] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (II):

[0284] COOH H — G — R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:

[0285] - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 with 8 links, preferably 5 links, this ring may optionally be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl;

[0286] - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a group (Cl-C12)alkyl, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -C0NH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or a C5-C7 aryl group, in particular phenyl, itself possibly substituted by one or more OH.

[0287] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0288] Preferably, p=2.

[0289] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated (Cl-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by a -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0290] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0291] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (II).

[0292] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0293] Amino acid type compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0294] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0295] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, methionine, serine, glutamic acid, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and mixtures thereof.

[0296] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, glutamic acid, serine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0297] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and mixtures thereof.

[0298] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0299] Preferably, the amino acid-type compound is glycine.

[0300] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition A may comprise at least 2 different amino acid-type compounds, better at least 3 different amino acid-type compounds.

[0301] In particular, composition A according to the invention may comprise at least 2 compounds corresponding to formula (II) and / or their salts, different, better at least 3 compounds corresponding to formula (II) and / or their salts, different.

[0302] Preferably, composition A according to the invention may comprise at least 2 different compounds selected from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, glutamic acid, serine, their salts and mixtures thereof; better, at least 3 different compounds selected from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, glutamic acid, serine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0303] Even better, composition A according to the invention may comprise:

[0304] - of glycine and / or one of its salts, and

[0305] - of glutamic acid and / or one of its salts,

[0306] - optionally arginine and / or one of its salts,

[0307] - optionally serine and / or one of its salts.

[0308] Most preferably, the composition according to the invention may include glycine and / or one of its salts, glutamic acid and / or one of its salts, arginine and / or one of its salts, and serine and / or one of its salts.

[0309] Preferably, the total content of amino acid compound(s) present in composition A according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 7% by weight, even better from 1.3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0310] In particular, the total content of amino acid compound(s) of formula (II) in composition A according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 8% by weight, preferably from 1 to 7% by weight, and even better from 1.3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0311] Better still, the total content of amino acid compound(s) selected from glycine, serine, glutamic acid, arginine, tyrosine, their salts and mixtures, in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.8 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 7% by weight, and even better from 1.3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0312] In particular, the total content of amino acid compound(s) selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention is of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.7 to 8% by weight, or better yet from 0.8 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 4 / Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

[0313] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0314] These (polya)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

[0315] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0316] Said hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids may comprise several, in particular at least 2, COOH groups (in acid or sal form), preferably 2 or 3 COOH groups (in acid or sal form). They are then referred to as hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids.

[0317] Said (poly)acids may also comprise a single COOH group; they are then referred to as hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids.

[0318] The (poly)acids according to the invention include mono- and poly-acids.

[0319] The hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids according to the invention also include at least one OH group, but may include several, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0320] Preferably, said hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0321] The hydrocarbon chain of said hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids may be linear or branched, saturated or instaminated, and is preferably saturated and linear.

[0322] Salts of (poly)acids include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, salts of alkali metals, such as lithium, sodium, and potassium salts; salts of alkaline earth metals such as magnesium, calcium, and zinc salts. Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.

[0323] Advantageously, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and from 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salt form).

[0324] Preferably, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from tartaric or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali or alkaline earth metals; especially sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better, citric acid or its salts, especially alkali or alkaline earth metals. earthy compounds such as sodium citrate.

[0325] Advantageously, the hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms of 1 to 3 OH groups and 1 COOH group (in acid or salt form), and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated and linear.

[0326] Preferably, the hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from among the alpha hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic or glycolic acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals.

[0327] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts; preferably selected from tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better selected from citric acid, sodium citrate and their mixtures.

[0328] Preferably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in composition A according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight, in particular at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may preferably range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better from 1 to 10% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 8% by weight, or even from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0329] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprising a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better from 1 to 10% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 8% by weight, or even from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0330] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids selected from tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better from 1 to 10% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 8% by weight, or even from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0331] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better from 1 to 10% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 8% by weight, or even from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5 / Other ingredients

[0332] Composition A may include a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with topical application on keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0333] Composition A according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from Ci-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.

[0334] Preferably, composition A according to the invention comprises a total water content of between 50 and 98%, preferably between 60 and 95% by weight, even better between 65 and 90% by weight, or even between 70 and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0335] The pH of composition A according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 7, and better from 4 to 6, or even from 4.5 to 5.5.

[0336] Cosmetic composition A may further include at least one common cosmetic ingredient, in particular selected from vegetable, mineral, animal, or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fats, including waxes, solid fatty esters, and solid alcohols; anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and non-ionic surfactants; sunscreens; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizers or coalescing agents; preservatives; sequestrants (EDTA and its salts); and colorants. Advantageously, it may also include at least one non-ionic surfactant. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. B / Washing stage (ii)

[0337] The cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, according to the invention also includes a step (ii) called washing of said keratin fibers, comprising the application of a cleansing cosmetic composition B comprising one or more anionic surfactants and / or one or more amphoteric surfactants. 1 / Anionic surfactants

[0338] The cosmetic washing composition B may comprise one or more anionic surfactants.

[0339] Anionic surfactant is understood to be a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0340] In this description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it possesses at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0341] Anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants can obviously be used.

[0342] It is understood in this description that:

[0343] - anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one car- function boxyl or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO ), and may possibly further include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0344] - anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally include one or more additional sulfate functions, but do not include a carboxylate function; and

[0345] - anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

[0346] The anionic carboxylic surfactants that can be used therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0347] They may be selected from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyl-lactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkylethercarboxylic acids, C6-30 alkyl(aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0348] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and poly-glycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts, can also be used.

[0349] Among the carboxylic surfactants mentioned above, particular mention may be made of polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, especially those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds offered by KAO under the names AKYPO,

[0350] The polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0351] Ri-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (1)

[0352] in which:

[0353] - Rr represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, an R2 CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably Rr is a C8-C20 alkyl radical, preferably a C8-C18 alkyl radical;

[0354] - n' is an integer or decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, of preference from 2 to 10,

[0355] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethamine residue Nolamine.

[0356] Mixtures of compounds of formula (1) can also be used, in particular mixtures of compounds having different R groups.

[0357] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0358] - Rr designates a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical, in particular in C10-C16, or even C12-C14, or an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical;

[0359] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0360] - n' varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0361] More preferably still, compounds of formula (1) are used in which Rr designates a C12-C14 alkyl radical, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl, A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n' varies from 2 to 10.

[0362] Among the commercial products, the products sold by the company KAO under the following names may be used in preference:

[0363] AKYPO® NP 70 (R1=nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H)

[0364] AKYPO® NP 40 (R1=nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

[0365] AKYPO®OP 40 (R1=octylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

[0366] AKYPO® OP 80 (R1=octylphenyl, n=8, A=H)

[0367] AKYPO® OP 190 (R1=octylphenyl, n=19, A=H)

[0368] AKYPO® RLM 38 (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4, A=H)

[0369] AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4, A=Na)

[0370] AKYPO® RLM 45 CA (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)

[0371] AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)

[0372] AKYPO® RLM 100 (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=10, A=H)

[0373] AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=10, A=Na)

[0374] AKYPO® RLM 130 (Ri=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=13, A=H)

[0375] AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (Ri=Ci2-Ci4 alkyl, n=16, A=Na),

[0376] or by the company SANDOZ under the names:

[0377] SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R1= Cn alkyl, n=6, A=H)

[0378] SANDOPAN DTC (Ri=Cn alkyl, n=6, A=Na)

[0379] SANDOPAN LS 24 (R1=C12-C14 alkyl, n=12, A=Na)

[0380] SANDOPAN JA 36 (R1=C13 alkyl, n=18, A=H),

[0381] and more specifically, the products sold under the following names:

[0382] AKYPO® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid)

[0383] AKYPO®RLM 100

[0384] AKYPO® RLM 38.

[0385] Preferably, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures:

[0386] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoyl- glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0387] - acylsarcosinates, particularly in C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitic- toylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0388] - acyllactylates, particularly in C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behe- noyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0389] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, particularly C12-C20;

[0390] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20) ether- boxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0391] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24)amidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0392] in particular in acidic form or as salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0393] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more acylsarcosinates, in particular in C6-C24, or even in C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates and lauroylsarcosinates, as well as their salts; and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate and / or sodium lauroylsarcosinate.

[0394] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3). They may be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylethersulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds;

[0395] the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0396] these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0397] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0398] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,

[0399] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially lauryl- sulfosuccinates.

[0400] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0401] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0402] - C6-C24 alkylsulfoacetates, particularly C12-C20,

[0403] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0404] The anionic sulfate surfactants that may be used have at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).

[0405] They can be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as salts of these compounds;

[0406] the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0407] these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0408] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0409] - alkyl sulfates, particularly in C6-C24, or even C12-C20, and

[0410] - alkyl ether sulfates, particularly in C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising preference for 2 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns;

[0411] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0412] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

[0413] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0414] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0415] Preferably, anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures,

[0416] - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, particularly C12-C20,

[0417] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, particularly C12-C20; comprising preference for 2 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns;

[0418] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly lauryl- sulfosuccinates;

[0419] - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,

[0420] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

[0421] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,

[0422] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular palmitoyl- sarcosinates and lauroylsarcosinates;

[0423] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0424] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particularly those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, especially ethylene;

[0425] - acylglutamates in C6-C24, in particular in C12-C20;

[0426] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, particularly C12-C20;

[0427] - C6-C24 alkylsulfoacetates, particularly C12-C20,

[0428] in particular in acidic form or as salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0429] Preferably, composition B comprises one or more anionic sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants, preferably selected from C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, especially C12-C2, (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates, C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20, C6-C24 alkylsulfoacetates, especially C12-C20, and mixtures thereof, and their salts; particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, or amino alcohols.

[0430] Preferably, composition B does not include anionic sulfate surfactant (0%).

[0431] The anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the washing composition B according to the invention in a total quantity ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, in particular from 5 to 35% by weight, better from 10 to 30% by weight, even better from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0432] The anionic surfactant(s) selected from sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants are preferably present in the composition of wash B according to the invention in a total quantity ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, in particular from 5 to 35% by weight, better from 10 to 30% by weight, even better from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition 2 / Amphoteric surfactants

[0433] The washing composition B may also include one or more amphoteric surfactants. By amphoteric surfactant is meant amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.

[0434] In particular, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are non-siliconized. They may be, in particular, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0435] In particular, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines may be cited.

[0436] Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, possibly quantified and usable, as defined above, we may also mention the compounds of the following respective structures (II) and (III):

[0437] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (II)

[0438] in which:

[0439] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0440] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0441] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0442] - M+ represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such that sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0443] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen among the halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent;

[0444] Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (III)

[0445] years which:

[0446] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0447] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0448] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2 - COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0449] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0450] - Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as that sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0451] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra-COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.

[0452] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoampho-dipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodi-propionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodi-propionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0453] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0454] Compounds of formula (IV) can also be used:

[0455] Ra-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (IV)

[0456] in which:

[0457] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0458] - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hy- radical droxyalkyl in Ci to C4;

[0459] - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0460] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra—COOH of preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil;

[0461] - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer from 1 to 3.

[0462] Among the compounds of formula (II) we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0463] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0464] Among amphoteric surfactants, preferred are alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as coca-midopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

[0465] Preferably, amphoteric surfactants are chosen from among the alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, the alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine and their mixtures; best among alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0466] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in composition B at a total content of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably at a content of 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better at 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0467] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) selected from alkyl(C8-C2O)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2O)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, are present in composition B at a total content of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably at a content of 0.5 to 10% by weight, or even better, 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0468] Preferably, composition B used in step (ii) of the process according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants. 3 / Non-ionic surfactants

[0469] Cosmetic composition B may optionally include one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular such as those described in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0470] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures:

[0471] - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;

[0472] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerol-based, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

[0473] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylated;

[0474] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethy- lene glycols;

[0475] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol preferably oxygenated;

[0476] - fatty acid and sucrose esters,

[0477] - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, even actually oxyalkylated and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C3O)(poly)glucoside esters,

[0478] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

[0479] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates;

[0480] - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives;

[0481] - amine oxides.

[0482] The oxyalkylated motifs are more particularly oxyethylened, oxy-propylened motifs, or their combination, preferably oxyethylened.

[0483] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol in particular ranges from 1 to 50, better from 1 to 10.

[0484] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not include oxypropylene motifs.

[0485] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better from 2 to 50.

[0486] As an example of non-ionic glycerolated surfactants, preferred are C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

[0487] Examples of compounds of this type include lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY-GLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0488] Among glycerol alcohols, C8 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, C1 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, and C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol are preferred in particular.

[0489] The non-ionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the washing composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture:

[0490] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains;

[0491] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;

[0492] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably of 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs;

[0493] - C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol;

[0494] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylated;

[0495] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of poly ethylene glycols;

[0496] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated.

[0497] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixture, the following:

[0498] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one alkyl chain in C8-C20, in particular in C10-C18;

[0499] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated, and

[0500] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs.

[0501] In particular, the washing composition B may comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type with the general formula:

[0502] RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0503] in which:

[0504] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0505] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0506] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably the glucose, fructose or galactose; even better, glucose;

[0507] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better from 0 to 3, even better 0;

[0508] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of po lymerization (v) being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0509] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar motifs are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4.

[0510] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0511] Preferably, the washing composition B comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s), when present, in a total content of 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition. 4 / Other ingredients

[0512] The washing composition B may include water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.

[0513] Preferably, the washing composition B according to the invention has a total water content of between 20 and 95% by weight, preferably between 30 and 90%, preferably between 40 and 85% by weight, even better between 50 and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0514] The pH of the washing composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.5 to 7, preferably from 4 to 6, and better from 5 to 6.

[0515] The cleansing cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one common cosmetic ingredient, in particular selected from among conditioning agents, polymeric or otherwise; these may include, in particular, silicones, organo-modified or not, such as amino silicones; vegetable, mineral, or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fats, and in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid alcohols, ceramides; sunscreens; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescing agents; preservatives; sequestering agents (EDTA and its salts); and colorants. The composition may, of course, include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. C / Step (iii) of applying a composition C

[0516] The cosmetic treatment process, in particular for hair, according to the invention also includes a step (iii) of applying to said keratin fibers, a cosmetic composition C comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts. 1 / Amino acid type compounds

[0517] Composition C used in step (iii) according to the present invention comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds.

[0518] Preferably, composition C comprises one or more amino acid-type compounds selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts.

[0519] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (II):

[0520] COOH H — C — N(H)P R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:

[0521] - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 with 8 links, preferably 5 links, this ring may optionally be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl;

[0522] - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a group (Cl-C12)alkyl, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or a C5-C7 aryl group, in particular phenyl, itself optionally substituted by one or more OH.

[0523] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0524] Preferably, p=2.

[0525] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated (Cl-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0526] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0527] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (II).

[0528] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0529] Amino acid type compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0530] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0531] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) according to the invention are selected from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, methionine, serine, glutamic acid, the lysine, their salts (especially of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0532] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, glutamic acid, serine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0533] Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and mixtures thereof.

[0534] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0535] Preferably, the amino acid-type compound is glycine.

[0536] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, composition C may comprise at least 2 different amino acid-type compounds, better at least 3 different amino acid-type compounds.

[0537] In particular, composition C according to the invention may comprise at least 2 compounds corresponding to formula (II) and / or their salts, different, better at least 3 compounds corresponding to formula (II) and / or their salts, different.

[0538] Preferably, the composition C according to the invention may comprise at least 2 different compounds selected from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, glutamic acid, serine, their salts and mixtures thereof; better, at least 3 different compounds selected from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, glutamic acid, serine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0539] Even better, composition C according to the invention may comprise:

[0540] - of glycine and / or one of its salts, and

[0541] - of glutamic acid and / or one of its salts,

[0542] - optionally arginine and / or one of its salts,

[0543] - optionally serine and / or one of its salts.

[0544] Most preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise glycine and / or one of its salts, glutamic acid and / or one of its salts, arginine and / or one of its salts, and serine and / or one of its salts.

[0545] Preferably, the total content of amino acid compound(s) present in composition C according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 2 to 8% by weight, even better from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0546] In particular, the total content of amino acid compound(s) of formula (II) in composition C according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content can range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 2 to 8% by weight, even better from 3 to 7% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0547] Better still, the total content of amino acid compound(s) selected from glycine, methionine, serine, glutamic acid, arginine, lysine, their salts and mixtures, in composition C according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 2 to 8% by weight, even better from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0548] In particular, the total content of amino acid compound(s) selected from glycine, its salts and mixtures thereof, in composition C according to the invention, is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may range from 0.5% to 12% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, and even better from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 2 / Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

[0549] Composition C according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts.

[0550] These (polya)acids are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

[0551] Said hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids may comprise several, in particular at least 2, COOH groups (in acid or sal form), preferably 2 or 3 COOH groups (in acid or sal form). They are then referred to as hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids.

[0552] Said (poly)acids may also comprise a single COOH group; they are then referred to as hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids.

[0553] The (poly)acids according to the invention include mono- and poly-acids.

[0554] The hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids according to the invention also include at least one OH group, but may include several, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.

[0555] Preferably, said hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0556] The hydrocarbon chain of said hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids may be linear or branched, saturated or instaminated, and is preferably saturated and linear.

[0557] Salts of (poly)acids include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium, and zinc salts. Alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.

[0558] Advantageously, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and from 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salt form).

[0559] Preferably, the hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; especially sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, especially of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

[0560] Advantageously, the hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms of 1 to 3 OH groups and 1 COOH group (in acidic or salt form), and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated and linear.

[0561] Preferably, the hydroxylated monocarboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from among the alpha hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic or glycolic acids, and their salts, especially of alkali or alkaline earth metals.

[0562] Preferably, composition C according to the invention comprises one or more hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts; preferably chosen from tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better chosen from citric acid, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof.

[0563] Preferably, the total content of hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, present in composition C according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight, in particular at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This content may preferably range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better from 1 to 10% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 8% by weight, or even from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0564] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids comprising a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in composition C according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better from 1 to 10% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 8% by weight, or even from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0565] In particular, the total content of hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids selected from tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in composition C according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better from 1 to 10% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 8% by weight, or even from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0566] Even better, the content of citric acid and / or its salts in composition C according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better from 1 to 10% by weight, even better from 1.5 to 8% by weight, or even from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 3 / Polyols

[0567] Composition C may advantageously comprise one or more polyols.

[0568] By "polyol" is meant an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) preferably on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0569] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups. Preferably, they comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0570] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are chosen from diols and / or triols, comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0571] In particular, diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even better from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.

[0572] Preferably, the polyol(s) may be present in composition C in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, better from 1 to 35% by weight, even better from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0573] Preferably, the polyol(s) selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof; may be present in composition C at a total content of 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably 1 to 35% by weight, even better 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 4 / Non-ionic surfactants

[0574] Composition C used in the process according to the invention may optionally include one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0575] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures:

[0576] - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;

[0577] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerol-based, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;

[0578] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylated;

[0579] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethy- lene glycols;

[0580] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol preferably oxygenated;

[0581] - fatty acid and sucrose esters,

[0582] - alkyl(poly)glycosides possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and may include 1 to 15 glucose motifs,

[0583] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

[0584] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates;

[0585] - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives;

[0586] - amine oxides.

[0587] The oxyalkylated motifs are more particularly oxyethylened, oxy-propylened motifs, or their combination, preferably oxyethylened.

[0588] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol in particular ranges from 1 to 50, better from 1 to 10.

[0589] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene motifs.

[0590] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide from 1 to 250, in particular from 2 to 100, better from 2 to 50.

[0591] As examples of nonionic glycerolated surfactants, preferred are C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol.

[0592] Examples include lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY-GLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol.

[0593] Among glycerol alcohols, C8 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, C1 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, and C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol are preferred in particular.

[0594] Non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants can in particular be represented by the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0595] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, including 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, including 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0596] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0597] - G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0598] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

[0599] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0600] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

[0601] - RI designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0602] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0603] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0604] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0605] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, of preference from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0606] The glucosidic linkages between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / C16-1,4-alkyl(poly)glucosides are particularly preferred, especially decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.

[0607] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0608] Preferably, alkyl C8 / C16-(poly)glycoside 1,4 is used, in particular in 53% aqueous solution, such as those marketed by COGNIS under the reference PLANTACARE® 818 UP.

[0609] The non-ionic surfactant(s) used in composition C according to the invention are preferably chosen from, alone or in mixtures:

[0610] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains;

[0611] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;

[0612] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glycosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably of 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs;

[0613] - C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol;

[0614] - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxy alkylated;

[0615] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of poly ethylene glycols;

[0616] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated.

[0617] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in composition C according to the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixture, :

[0618] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxygenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one alkyl chain in C8-C20, in particular in C10-C18;

[0619] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated, and

[0620] - alkyl(C8-C3O)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs;

[0621] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50.

[0622] Preferably, composition C according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactant(s) in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 7% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Additional compounds

[0623] Composition C according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration preferably from 40 to 95% by weight, for example from 45 to 90% by weight, in particular from 50 to 85% by weight, better from 60 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0624] The pH of the composition may be between 2.5 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7, or even between 3.5 and 5.

[0625] Composition C according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents, liquid at 25°C, 1 atm, preferably hydrophilic (soluble or miscible with water), which may be selected from C1-C6 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C2-C8 polyols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is selected from C2-C4 mono-, di-, or tri-diols. It may advantageously be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, propane-1,2-diol (propylene glycol), and mixtures thereof.

[0626] Composition C according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients, in particular selected from among surfactants, especially cationic surfactants; silicones; non-siliconized liquid and / or solid fats; thickeners and gelling agents; sunscreens; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct colorants; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, pearlescent pigments, glitter; pigments; fillers; perfumes; and pH-modifying agents. Those skilled in the art shall take care to select the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0627] In particular, composition C may advantageously include one or more thickeners, preferably chosen from thickening polymers, and even better from thickening polysaccharides, which may be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0628] Polysaccharides can be anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric; they are preferably anionic or non-ionic.

[0629] The basic units of polysaccharides can be mono- or disaccharides. The motifs that can be included in the composition of polysaccharides are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, fructose, anhydrogalactose.

[0630] Examples of thickening polysaccharides include the following polymers and their derivatives:

[0631] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose)

[0632] - locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose)

[0633] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose)

[0634] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose)

[0635] - konjac gum (glucose and mannose polymer),

[0636] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer),

[0637] - cellulose (glucose polymer)

[0638] - starch (polymer of glucose)

[0639] - inulin (polymer of fructose and glucose).

[0640] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatments include temperature. Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be nonionic, cationic, or amphoteric.

[0641] The nonionic guar gums usable according to the invention can be modified by C1-C6 hydroxylakyl groups. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum, so as to obtain guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed per number of free hydroxyl groups present on the guar gum.Such non-ionic guar gums, possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0642] Guar gums modified with cationic groups, particularly useful according to the invention, are guar gums comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl groups of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups are particularly noteworthy. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.These guar gums modified by cationic groups are products already known in themselves and are described for example in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,013,130. Such products are sold in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0643] As a modified locust bean gum, locust bean gum may be used tionic containing hydroxypropyltrimmonium groups such as Catinal CLB 200 offered by the company TOHO.

[0644] The starch molecules used in the present invention may originate from any plant source of starch, in particular cereals and tubers; more specifically, they may be starches from maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, oats, or tapioca. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above or other starch derivatives may also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potato. The starches may be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatments.

[0645] More specifically, these reactions can be carried out in the following way:

[0646] - pregelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example, drying and cooking in a drum dryer);

[0647] - oxidation by strong oxidants leading to the introduction of carboxyl groups in the starch molecule and to the depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous solution of starch with sodium hypochlorite);

[0648] - crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with groups hydroxyl groups of starch molecules which will thus be linked together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups);

[0649] - esterification in alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups, in particular acyl in C1-C6 (acetyl), hydroxyalkyl in C1-C6 (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenylsuccinic.

[0650] Among starch derivatives, dextrins can be notably mentioned.

[0651] According to the invention, amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups can also be used. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably, they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate type, and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine type.

[0652] Amphoteric starches are in particular selected from compounds with the following formulas: R' R HC—C—COOM / H St-O“(GH,VhL „ u \ HH CC — COOM (Î8) I R' R COOM R HQ---C—COOM / H St“O-(CHsVN (H la) R\ n' ! St - O “ C —C - COOM H.> H R\ R" (iVa) 'N / St —O — O ---C--COOM H H.,.

[0653] in which:

[0654] St-0 represents a starch molecule,

[0655] R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

[0656] R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group,

[0657] n is an integer equal to 2 or 3,

[0658] M, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkali-noterrous metal such as Na, K, Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,

[0659] R" represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C18 alkyl radical.

[0660] Starches of formulas (lia) or (Ilia) are particularly used; and preferentially 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid modified starches, i.e. starches of formula (lia) or (Ilia) in which R, R', R" and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2. The preferred amphoteric starch is a starch chloroethylamido dipropionate.

[0661] Cellulose and cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters may be mentioned.

[0662] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, examples include alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0663] Among cationic cellulose ethers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses may be mentioned. The quaternizing agent may be, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride (for example, Celquat L200 from NATIONAL STARCH). Another cationic cellulose ether is hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium (for example, Ucare polymer JR 400 from AMERCHOL).

[0664] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more thickening agents selected from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic polysaccharides, better selected from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic guar gums modified by C1-C6 hydroxylakyl groups.

[0665] The composition according to the invention may comprise the thickening agent(s) in a total quantity from 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0666] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more non-ionic polysaccharides in a total amount from 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0667] The present invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples (MA = active substance). Example 1

[0668] The following compositions used in the context of the invention are prepared (% by weight of active ingredient):

[0669] [Tables 1] INCI Name Composition A step (i) AMINOPROPYL TRIETHOXYSILANE 10 POLYQUATERNIUM-6 1 Amino acids (glycine, arginine, serine, glutamic acid) 1.8 Citric acid 4.4 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 2 Preservatives qs Water qsp 100%

[0670] [Tables2] INCI Name Composition Step C (iii) Glycerin 15 Propylene glycol 5 Amino acids (glycine, arginine, glutamic acid, serine) 5.8 Citric acid 3 Non-ionic surfactant 2.5 Cationic polymer 1.2 Cationic surfactant 1 Thickener 0.2 Preservatives qs Water qsp 100%

[0671] Apply composition A above to previously wet hair, and leave for a few minutes (0 to 5 minutes).

[0672] Next, a standard shampoo composition (comprising anionic and amphoteric surfactants) is applied to unrinsed hair, washed in the usual way, and then the hair is rinsed with water.

[0673] Next, apply composition C, leave for a few minutes before rinsing the hair with water, then dry with a hairdryer or let it air dry.

[0674] Before drying, it is observed that damp hair detangles very easily.

[0675] After drying, the hair appears to have been repaired. The hair's interior is visibly strengthened; detangling, smoothness, and elasticity are improved. Hair repair is consistent from root to tip.

[0676] The process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain the association of a repair at the heart of the fiber with instant detangling, especially on wet hair, an addition of strength and this in a lasting way. Example 2

[0677] The denaturation temperature of strands treated according to the invention is compared with that of the comparative strands.

[0678] PI: Protocol according to the invention

[0679] Step 1: On moderately sensitized hair strands (SA20), apply Composition A from example 1 is used at a rate of 0.4g of composition per gram of hair strand. The composition is left on the hair for a processing time of 5 minutes.

[0680] Step 2: A shampoo composition is applied at a rate of 0.4g of composition per gram of strand. The strands are then rinsed with water.

[0681] Step 3: Composition C from example 1 is applied, at a rate of 0.4g of composition per gram of wick, then rinse with water after a 5 minute waiting time.

[0682] Steps 2 and 3 are repeated 4 times.

[0683] P2: Comparative Protocol

[0684] Step 1: On moderately sensitized hair strands (SA20), the shampoo composition is applied at a rate of 0.4g of composition per gram of strand. The strands are then rinsed with water.

[0685] Step 2: Composition C is applied, at a rate of 0.4g of composition per gram of wick, then rinse with water after a 5 minute waiting time.

[0686] Steps 1 and 2 are repeated 4 times.

[0687] The integrity (i.e. repair) of the keratin fibers of the strands is then evaluated by differential scanning calorimetry (also called DSC).

[0688] The principle of the test consists of measuring the protein denaturation temperature. The higher the protein denaturation temperature, the better the integrity of the cortex proteins, which translates into greater fiber strength.

[0689] The following results are obtained:

[0690] [Tables3] Untreated control Protocol 1 invention Protocol 2 comparison Denaturation temperature (°C) 141.3 156.9 154

[0691] It is observed that the PI protocol according to the invention makes it possible to increase the denaturation temperature of the fiber proteins significantly compared to the comparative P2 protocol.

[0692] The protocol according to the invention therefore makes it possible to improve the strengthening / repair of the hair.

Claims

1.

2. Claims Cosmetic treatment process, preferably hair treatment, for keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising: - a step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition A comprising one or more organosilanes, then - a step (ii) of washing said keratin fibers, comprising the application of a cosmetic washing composition B comprising one or more anionic surfactants and / or one or more amphoteric surfactants, then - a step (iii) of application to said keratin fibers of a cosmetic composition C comprising one or more amino acid type compounds and one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts. Process according to claim 1, in which composition A comprises one or more organosilanes chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and / or their oligomers and / or their hydrolysis products: RlSi(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y (I) in which: - RI is a C1-C22, in particular C2-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic hydrocarbon chain, which may be substituted by a group chosen from the amine groups NH2 or NHR (R being a linear or branched C1-C20, in particular C1-C6, alkyl, or a C3-C40 cycloalkyl or a C6-C30 aromatic radical); the hydroxy group (OH), a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl) substituted or not by an NH2 or NHR group; RI may be interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO); - R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, - z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and - x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z+x+y=3; preferably, RI is a C1-C12 hydrocarbon chain, in particular C2-C6, linear or branched, saturated, substituted by an amine group NH2, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and z = 3 (and therefore x=y=0); better still, the organosilane(s) are chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES); 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropyl methyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl-aminomethyl)-phenethyltrimethoxysilane, and oligomers thereof, and / or mixtures thereof; and more particularly chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) and 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) and oligomers thereof, hydrolysis products thereof and / or mixtures thereof; and even better chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), its oligomers and / or its hydrolysis products.

3. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the organosilane(s) are present in composition A in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a total content ranging from 6 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 8 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition A used in step (i) comprises one or more cationic polymers; preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride), - optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Cl-C4)trialkyl(Cl-C4)ammonium salts; - cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

5. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition A used in step (i) comprises one or more amino acid type compounds; preferably chosen from the compounds corresponding to the formula (I) below and / or their salts: ÇOOH H........C ........N(H)P h

6.

7. in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C12)alkyl group, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -C0NH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or a C5-C7 aryl group, in particular phenyl, itself optionally substituted by one or more OH; preferably chosen from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, methionine, serine, glutamic acid, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition A used in step (i) comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts; preferably chosen from hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or their salts comprising in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form); in particular chosen from tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic washing composition B used in step (ii) comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from, alone or as a mixture, - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20, - C6-C24, especially C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates; - C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, especially C12-C20, - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20; - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates, - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20; especially palmitoylsarcosinates and lauroylsarcosinates; - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; - polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene; - C6-C24 acylglutamates, especially C12-C20; - C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20; - C6-C24 alkylsulfoacetates, especially C12-C20, in particular in acid form or as salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

8. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition B used in step (ii) comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and alkyl(C8-C20)amidalkyl(C6-C8)sulfobetaines, as well as the compounds of the following respective structures (II), (III) and (IV): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+ , X (II) in which: - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counterion from an alkali, alkali-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent; Ra -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (III) in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkali-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R., -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group. Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (IV) in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; - n and n', independently of each other, denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; Preferably chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine and mixtures thereof.

9. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition C used in step (iii) comprises one or more amino acid type compounds chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts: COOH H — C — N(H)P R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle which may be optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C12)alkyl group, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or a C5-C7 aryl group, in particular phenyl, itself optionally substituted by one or more OH; preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom -S- and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2, better still R represents a hydrogen atom;preferentially chosen from glycine, arginine, tyrosine, methionine, serine, glutamic acid, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures.;

10. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition C used in step (iii) comprises one or more amino acid type compounds in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still ranging from 0.5 to 12% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, even better still from 3 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition C used in step (iii) comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts chosen from hydroxylated polycarboxylic acids and / or their salts comprising in total from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, from 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acid or salified form); better chosen from tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals; very particularly sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium citrate.

12. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the com-

13.

14.

15. cosmetic position C used in step (iii) comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising in total 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and / or their salts, in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight, in particular at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; better still ranging from 0.5 to 12% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1.5 to 8% by weight, or even from 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition C used in step (iii) comprises one or more polyols, preferably chosen from diols and / or triols, comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; in particular chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even better from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition C used in step (iii) comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants; preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethyleneated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain, in particular C10-C18; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated, and - alkyl(C8-C3o)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 0 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units; - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50. Method according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic composition C used in step (iii) comprises one or several thickeners, preferably chosen from thickening polymers, and even better from thickening polysaccharides, preferably anionic or non-ionic.