COSMETIC USE OF A ROSA GALLICA EXTRACT

Abstract

The present invention proposes the use of an extract of Rosa gallica, or a composition comprising said extract and a physiologically acceptable medium, for a topical anti-glycation cosmetic treatment. The treatment can be used to detoxify the skin and its appendages, in particular to prevent loss of skin elasticity, improve the radiance of the complexion of the skin and its appendages, prevent skin fatigue, and prevent brittle hair. The extract may be a flower extract, particularly of petals, and may be obtained by various techniques, preferably using ultrasound.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC USE OF A DEPOSA GALLICA EXTRACT

[0001] The present invention relates to the use of an extract of Rosa gallica or a composition comprising it for a topical cosmetic treatment.

[0002] By "cosmetic treatment" is meant a treatment which treats healthy skin and / or appendages, said treatment being intended to improve or beautify their appearance and condition. Such treatment has no therapeutic purpose.

[0003] The present invention relates in particular to the cosmetics industries which manufacture and / or use products intended for the treatment of the skin including the scalp, mucous membranes and appendages (such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, hair) of mammals, animals or humans, to improve their appearance and / or general condition.

[0004] These industries are in increasing demand for new products, in particular in demand for new active ingredients which are derived from plants because these make it possible to combine efficacy, limitation of the risks of irritation and allergy, reduction of side effects, biodegradability, with the possibilities of labeling / certification and suitability with a logic of sustainable development and / or fair trade.

[0005] The genus Rosa includes about 200 different species, including Rosa gallica. The latter is also called the French rose or Provins rose. Rosa gallica is a species of rose native to central and southern Europe and Asia Minor from Turkey to the Caucasus. Currently, the main sites are located in the Alpine massifs, at altitudes of 500 m to 900 m.

[0006] These are ancient roses that botanists have often described, since Pliny the Elder in the 1st century AD. They are known for their tonic and astringent properties, as well as for their perfume power.

[0007] Generally speaking, rose extracts are often used in the field of cosmetics. They are known for their various cosmetic properties, including moisturizing and anti-aging.

[0008] For example, patent FR3099370 describes an extract of rose stems to protect the skin and fight against its aging, to protect the skin against the attacks of pollution and blue light.

[0009] In another example, given in patent FR2991169, an extract of rose buds is recommended in an anti-aging and / or cellulite treatment.

[0010] Yet another example is given in patent application KR10-2420544 which describes a rose flower extract to prevent skin aging.

[0011] The aim of the present invention is to propose a new non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment for improving or beautifying the general condition of the skin and its appendages using an extract of Rosa Gallica.

[0012] To this end, the present invention proposes the use of an extract of Rosa Gallica or a composition comprising it for a topical non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin and its anti-glycation appendages.

[0013] Glycation is characterized as follows.

[0014] The human body needs sugar to produce its energy. However, the sugar that is consumed is never used in its entirety by the body for this beneficial purpose. A residual part of this absorbed sugar will react non-enzymatically with the amino groups of proteins, nucleic acids or lipids to create advanced glycation products, called glycotoxins or AGEs for "Advanced Gly-cosylated End-products" in English (AGEs), which accumulate over time in the tissues. The glycated molecules see their functional, enzymatic and structural properties altered and this has consequences on the proper functioning of the cells or the body.

[0015] In the skin, AGEs are found not only in the dermis but also in the epidermis, up to the stratum corneum. Tissues are affected more when their proteins have a long lifespan, such as collagen, elastin, fibronectin and laminins. This has the consequence of altering the mechanical and elastic properties of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the dermis, which becomes less flexible, more rigid, but also more flaccid and less reactive.

[0016] Furthermore, within skin cells, mitochondrial proteins are also glycated, which causes decreases in the efficiency of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production and a deficiency in energy production.

[0017] AGEs therefore represent a major source of cellular dysfunction and their accumulation tends to alter the properties and performance of tissues and cells: reduced flexibility, reduced mobility, reduced reactivity, reduced energy production. On the face, glycation leaves its mark, for example, dark circles under the eyes, swollen bags, dull complexion and drawn features, less reactive, tired, flabby skin. A study has also shown that the quantity of AGEs and hair quality are linked. A reduction in protein content and an increase in AGEs content imply poorer quality hair with a decrease in resistance to breakage.

[0018] Glycation therefore visually translates on the skin into the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, dull, flabby, lackluster, tired-looking skin, skin lacking tone and suppleness and on the hair into poorer quality hair, split and brittle.

[0019] There is therefore a real need in this field of cosmetics to counteract these unsightly visual effects.

[0020] Test results are given further in the description advantageously showing the anti-glycation effects of a Rosa gallica extract and the in-vivo effects on skin radiance.

[0021] The treatment according to the invention makes it possible to prevent glycation, to slow down or even prevent its implementation. Glycation is independent of age. The treatment according to the invention therefore does not constitute an anti-aging or anti-aging treatment. It can be used on young skin.

[0022] More particularly, the treatment according to the invention is suitable for preventing brittle hair, that is to say preventing the hair from breaking, preventing the appearance of split ends, and / or detoxifying the skin and its appendages.

[0023] More particularly still, the treatment according to the invention is suitable for:

[0024] - increase hair resistance; and / or

[0025] - prevent loss of skin suppleness; and / or

[0026] - improve the radiance of the complexion of the skin and its appendages; and / or

[0027] - prevent skin fatigue.

[0028] The Rosa gallica extract according to the invention can be produced from the whole plant or from one or more parts of the plant such as the leaf, the stem, the flower, the fruit, the seed and / or the root. Preferably, it is produced from the flowers and more particularly from the petals.

[0029] The extract of Rosa gallica can be obtained by the usual solid / liquid extraction techniques including for example maceration, simple decoction, infusion, leaching, reflux extraction, subcritical or supercritical fluid extraction, extraction by means of ultrasound or microwaves, zeodration, or any other physical and / or chemical method such as distillation, percolation, digestion, cryoextraction and enzymatic digestion.

[0030] By "maceration" is meant a process consisting of soaking a plant or part of a plant in an extraction solvent at room temperature.

[0031] By "infusion" is meant a process consisting of bringing the extraction solvent to a boil before pouring it onto the plant or part of the plant.

[0032] By "decoction" is meant a process consisting of mixing the plant or part of the plant with the extraction solvent, then bringing the whole to a boil.

[0033] By "digestion" is meant a process consisting of mixing the plant or part of the plant with the extraction solvent, then heating the mixture to a temperature below the boiling temperature.

[0034] Preferably, the extract of Rosa gallica according to the invention is obtained, for example traction by means of ultrasound. Ultrasound-assisted extraction makes it possible to obtain extracts comprising natural compounds in a very short time, from a few minutes to several hours, depending on the chemical family of the extractable compounds, and with very high reproducibility. The frequency of the generators varies from 20 kHz to 20,000 kHz. Preferably, according to the invention, conventional power ultrasound (also called low-frequency ultrasound) is used with a generator frequency of between 20 and 100 kHz. The advantage of extraction by means of ultrasound is that it can be carried out at low temperature, preferably between 20°C and 60°C. This makes it possible not to denature the plant and the molecules it contains.

[0035] The extraction by means of ultrasound is carried out in at least one solvent chosen from: water, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol of any molecular weight, monoethyl ether of diethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, but also ethanol, propanol, butanol and other polyols (propanediol, pentanediol, hexanol, sorbitol and other liquid sugars) as well as all mixtures of these solvents. Preferably, the extraction solvent is a mixture of at least one glycolic solvent and at least one aqueous solvent, more preferably a glycerin / water mixture.

[0036] A preferred extract of Rosa gallica used according to the invention is rich in polyphenols, in particular flavonoids, but also rich in carbohydrates, minerals, organic acids and proteins.

[0037] The extract according to the invention can be used as such or in a composition, diluted in a physiologically acceptable medium. The nature of the medium is defined according to the properties of the Rosa gallica flower extract and also according to the destination of the composition formed: a simple ingredient or a more sophisticated galenic form of a final composition for the consumer.

[0038] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant according to the present invention, without being limiting, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles, a powder.

[0039] “Physiologically acceptable” means that the compositions are suitable for a topical or transdermal use, in contact with the mucous membranes, nails, scalp, hair, fur and skin of mammals and more particularly humans, compositions which can be ingested or injected into the skin, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and others. This “physiologically acceptable medium” forms what is classically called the excipient of the composition.

[0040] Preferably according to the invention, the physiologically acceptable medium may be an aqueous, hydroglycolic or hydroalcoholic medium, or formed by a water- in-oil, an oil-in-water emulsion, or a microemulsion. More preferably, it is hydroglycolic. More preferably, the physiologically acceptable medium is a mixture of glycerin and water.

[0041] The present invention therefore covers a non-therapeutic cosmetic topical treatment method for beautifying or improving the appearance and general condition of the skin and / or appendages and treating imperfections, in a subject who needs an effective amount of at least one extract of Rosa gallica flowers according to the invention or a composition comprising it, in a physiologically acceptable excipient, said treatment being an anti-glycation treatment.

[0042] The "effective" amount of Rosa gallica flower extract according to the invention, i.e. its dosage, depends on the intended use of the composition. It depends on various factors, such as age, the condition of the patient, the severity of the disorder. An effective amount means a non-toxic amount sufficient to achieve the desired effect.

[0043] In a composition containing at least one extract of Rosa gallica flowers according to the invention, to be present in an effective quantity, it is generally found in proportions of between 0.000001% and 15% relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably between 0.00001% and 10%, depending on the intended use of the composition and the desired effect, more or less pronounced. More preferably, the effective quantity is between 0.0001% and 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] All percentages and ratios used in this application are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are made at 25°C, unless otherwise specified.

[0045] According to other particularities, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention can be associated with one or more other treatment methods targeting the skin, such as light therapy, heat therapy or aromatherapy treatments.

[0046] According to the invention, it is possible to propose multi-compartment devices or kits intended for implementing the method described above, and which could comprise, by way of example, and without this being limiting, in a first compartment a composition containing an extract of Rosa gallica flowers according to the invention in an excipient, and in a second compartment an additional active agent acting jointly according to the invention in an excipient and / or additional active agent, the compositions contained in said first and second compartments being considered here as a combination composition for simultaneous, separate or spread-out use over time, in particular in one of the treatments defined above.

[0047] For example, for a cosmetic facial treatment, the European Cosmetics Directive has set a standard application quantity of 2.72 mg / cm2 / day / person for a cream and 0.5 mg / cm2 / day / person for a body lotion.

[0048] According to other advantageous characteristics, the extract of Rosa gallica flowers according to the invention can be used in combination with one or more additional active ingredients at effective concentrations advantageously making it possible to offer a synergistic or reinforcing effect to achieve the desired effects described for the invention.The additional active ingredients may be chosen, for example, from lightening, anti-seborrheic, anti-redness, anti-blemish, calming active ingredients, for the treatment of brittle hair, for the treatment of sensitive, reactive skin, filtering radiation, in particular UVA, UVB, IR, from blue light, moisturizing, humectant, exfoliating, smoothing, toning, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and fine lines active ingredients, improving mechanical and elastic properties, radiance of the complexion, detoxifying active ingredients, anti-hair regrowth, acting on the skin barrier, anti-acne, acting on sebum secretion, mattifying, unifying, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-free radical, anti-glycant, eye contour (anti-eye bags and anti-puffiness), promoting blood circulation, Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA), peptides, vitamins, ceramides, etc.These active ingredients can be obtained from plant materials, such as plant extracts or products of plant culture or fermentation.

[0049] Advantageously, the Rosa gallica flower extract according to the invention can be used in combination with an active ingredient filtering radiation from blue light.

[0050] The "International cosmetic ingredient dictionary & handbook" published by "the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc.", Washington, DC describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in the compositions according to the present invention, as long as they are physically and chemically compatible with the other ingredients of the composition and especially with the actives of the present invention. Furthermore, the nature of these additional ingredients must not unacceptably alter the benefits of the actives of the invention. These additional ingredients may be synthetic or natural, such as plant extracts or come from a biofermentation process.

[0051] Other skin care active ingredients which are particularly useful in combination with the composition according to the invention can be found in the commercial documentation of Crodarom and Sederma, and on the website www.croda.fr.

[0052] More specifically, the extract of Rosa gallica flowers according to the invention can be combined with at least one of the compounds chosen from vitamin compounds, groups BC, E, F, D and A in particular, compounds such as niacinamide, tocopherol or thiamine, retinoid compounds such as retinol, hyaluronic acid, hexamidine, α-lipoic acid, resveratrol, or DHEA, peptides, aminoguanidine, rosmarinic acid, rutin, quercetin, catechin, baicalein, camphor derivatives, hesperidin, which are classic active ingredients used in topical cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical compositions.

[0053] The present invention also provides the use of an extract of Rosa gallica flowers, as described above, for the manufacture of a composition for an anti-glycation cosmetic treatment, as also described above.

[0054] The composition for use according to the invention can be provided in any galenic form (examples are given further in the description) defined according to the destination of the composition and its site of application.

[0055] A composition according to the invention can be applied to the face, body, décolleté, scalp, hair, in any form or vehicle known to those skilled in the art, in particular in the form of a solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste or powder, individually or in a premix or be carried individually or in a premix by vectors such as macrocapsules, microcapsules or nanocapsules, macrospheres, microspheres, or nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macroparticles, microparticles or nanoparticles, macrosponges, microsponges or nanosponges, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites, spores or exines and other mineral or organic supports.

[0056] In cosmetics in particular, applications can be proposed, in particular in the ranges of facial and / or body skin care and makeup-care ranges, in particular eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0057] For example, the galenic form of the composition may be a lotion, a cream, a butter, a milk, a solid form, a mousse, a gel, a deodorant, an antiperspirant, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair mask, a face mask, a shower gel, etc.

[0058] For example again, in the case of anti-glycation use, the galenic form of the composition may be a cream suitable for the face, the whole body and / or the hair and scalp.

[0059] The galenic formulas can be included in ranges of personal care products and / or beauty products, in particular ranges of skin care, cleansing, makeup, makeup removal, anti-sun, artificial tanning, pre-shave, shaving, or after-shave, moisturizer, humectant, emollient, conditioner, exfoliant, astringent, depilatory, antiperspirant or antiperspirant, deodorant, deodorant, and ranges of scalp and hair care, etc.

[0060] The composition may also be incorporated onto a non-woven or woven material, in natural or synthetic fibers, wool, or on any material intended to come into contact with the skin and which can be used in clothing, in particular tights and socks, shorts, day or night underwear, handkerchiefs, or fabrics, in order to exert its cosmetic effect through this skin / textile contact and allow continuous topical delivery (cosmetotextiles).

[0061] According to the invention, there is also provided a woven or non-woven material comprising at least one extract of Rosa gallica flowers, for use in a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0062] The present invention will be better understood in light of the detailed description of exemplary embodiments and studies described below.

[0063] A-Example of obtaining the extract of Rosa milieu and a composition comprising it

[0064] Plant material: Rosa gallica flowers.

[0065] Extraction type: using ultrasound

[0066] Extraction solvent: water-glycerin (20:80)

[0067] Procedure: The flowers are extracted using ultrasound in a water-glycerin mixture for 20 minutes to 6 hours, then the extract is filtered to remove solid debris from the plant. Several successive filtrations are carried out, with a size between 50 and 0.1 μm. The filtered extract constitutes the extract according to the invention.

[0068] This procedure advantageously makes it possible to obtain a Rosa gallica extract rich in flavonoids, titrated between 5 and 20% by weight of flavonoids relative to the weight of the dry extract. The identification of this family of molecules is carried out by UV / visible spectrophotometry.

[0069] To obtain a composition comprising the extract according to the invention, the latter is filtered and mixed with a physiologically acceptable matrix, consisting of a water-glycerin mixture. The water:glycerin ratio in the composition is between 0:100 and 30:70. This composition constitutes an active ingredient according to the invention. B--Example of formulation

[0070] A cosmetic formulation of a cream is described below, containing the active ingredient according to the invention prepared in point A. above.

[0071] The active ingredient according to the invention is recommended in a composition at a rate of 1 to 5%, preferably a rate of 3%. This rate can vary depending on the more or less pronounced effects sought.

[0072] Additional active ingredients, where appropriate supporting and / or complementing the activity of the extract according to the invention, may be added in the appropriate phase according to their hydrophobic, hydrophilic or amphiphilic character. These in Ingredients can be of any category depending on their function(s), the place of application (body, face, neck, bust, hands, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, etc.), the desired final effect and the targeted consumer, for example anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, anti-dark circles, firming, anti-glycation, slimming, soothing, muscle relaxant, anti-redness, sensitive skin, anti-stretch marks, mattifying, etc.

[0073] [Tables 1] Matières premières % Nom INCI Phase A Eau qsp Aqua Carbomer 0,20 Carbomer Phase B Arlacel 170 1,00 Glyceryl Stéarate (and) PEG-100 Stéarate Crodacol™ CS90-PA-(RB) 1,50 Cetearyl alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate (and) Ceteth-10 Phosphate Crodamol™ GTCC 3,00 Caprylic / Capric Triglycéride Phase C Crodamol™ AB-LQ-(RB) 1,50 Cl2-15 Alkyl benzoate Pemulen TR2 0,20 C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Phase D Glycerol 2,00 Glycerin Caprylyl glycol 0,50 Caprylyl glycol Phase E Phenoxyethanol 0,80 Phenoxyethanol Phase F Potassium sorbate 0,15 Potassium sorbate Phase G Eau 4,00 Aqua NaOH 35% 0,37 Sodium hydroxide Phase H L’ingrédient actif selon l’invention 3,00 / Mode opératoire :

[0074] For phase A, sprinkle the carbomer in water, let it swell and heat. Weigh and heat phase B. Weigh and melt phase D. Weigh phase E, add phase E to phase D. Add phase D+E to phase A, homogenize. Add phase B to phase A+D+E, while stirring. Weigh and add phase C to phase A+B+D+E, while stirring. Weigh and add phase F to phase A+B+C+D+E, homogenize. Weigh and add phase G to phase A+B+C+D+E+F, homogenize. Weigh and add phase H to phase A+B+C+D+E+F+G, homogenize.

[0075] Examples of other ingredients that can be added to this formulation:

[0076] In reinforcement of the anti-glycation activity:

[0077] Phytessence™ Pink pomelo EC: Ingredient marketed by Crodarom, which accelerates cell renewal using gentle, skin-friendly exfoliation.

[0078] AHA Phytocomplex™: Ingredient marketed by Crodarom, which exfoliates, revitalizes and smooths the skin.

[0079] In addition to the activity:

[0080] Crodarom® Nordic Cotton: active ingredient marketed by Crodarom, to help strengthen the skin's barrier function, soothe the most sensitive skin, moisturize and protect hair.

[0081] Zanthocare™: active ingredient marketed by Crodarom, with balancing and soothing properties, which reduces bad odors while acting on skin and emotional well-being.

[0082] Synchrolife™: active ingredient marketed by Sederma, which counteracts the harmful effects of blue light which generate signs of fatigue and premature aging.

[0083] C--Test demonstrating the anti-glycation activity of the extract according to the invention: g Non-enzymatic irrigation of BSA (bovine serum albumin) Protocol

[0084] The study of non-enzymatic glycation is carried out between a model protein, serum albumin, which serves as a target and an edible reducing sugar derived from fruit. The protein is progressively glycated (linked to the sugar) irreversibly, in the presence or absence of the product according to the invention. This modification is monitored by fluorescence. Results

[0085] Variation in glycation (n=4). Effect of the extract according to the invention at 1% and 3% compared to the control:

[0086] [Tables2] Variation (%); significance Control Reference 1% of the extract according to the invention - 84%; p<0.01 3% of the extract according to the invention - 89%; p<0.01

[0087] The results show the strong anti-glycating potential of the extract according to the invention. D-In-vivo evaluation of skin radiance Protocol

[0088] The study was carried out on 31 volunteers: 5 men and 26 women, with an average age of 52 years (40-70 years).

[0089] Inclusion criteria: Healthy man or woman, aged between 40 and 70 years, with dry skin and phototype II to V.

[0090] Exclusion criteria:

[0091] - Allergy or reactivity to certain components of the product, or to a category product similar to the one tested.

[0092] - Surgery of the facial area.

[0093] - Relevant skin marks in the experimental areas, which may interfere with measurements (scars, sunburn, etc.).

[0094] - Relevant pharmacological or hormonal treatment in use.

[0095] - Presence of skin diseases or melanomas.

[0096] - Forecast of relevant change in routine or lifestyle, during the period of studies.

[0097] - No excessive exposure to UV (including artificial UV). Type of study, duration, applications

[0098] Product tested: Cream comprising the composition according to the invention described in point B. vs. the placebo cream, i.e. with the same chassis as the cream but without the active ingredient according to the invention.

[0099] The volunteers were not aware of the type of product (active according to the invention or placebo). They had to apply it twice a day.

[0100] Volunteers answered a questionnaire about the condition of their skin at T = 0 and T = 28 days. They could answer the questions with: strongly disagree, disagree, agree or strongly agree. Positive responses group together the responses Agreed and completely agreed. Statistics

[0101] Statistical calculations are performed using a Chi2 test. The level of 0.05 is chosen as the minimum acceptance point for statistical significance. Results

[0102] Variation in skin radiance. Effect of the cream containing the active ingredient according to the invention vs. the placebo cream after 28 days of application:

[0103] [Tables3] Cream containing the active ingredient according to the invention Placebo cream Improvement in radiance; significance 81%;p<0.01 71%;p<0.05 % improvement of the cream according to the invention vs. the placebo cream; significance vs. Placebo + 10%; dns

[0104] *dns: non-significant data

[0105] The results show that the cream comprising the ingredient according to the invention has a higher satisfaction rate regarding skin radiance than the placebo cream.

Claims

Claims

1. Use of an extract of Rosa gallica or a composition comprising it for a non-therapeutic topical anti-glycation cosmetic treatment of the skin and its appendages.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the treatment is suitable for preventing brittle hair and / or detoxifying the skin and its appendages.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the treatment is suitable for: - increasing the strength of the hair, and / or - preventing a loss of suppleness of the skin, and / or - improving the radiance of the complexion of the skin and its appendages, and / or - preventing skin fatigue.

4. Use according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said extract is a flower extract.

5. Use according to claim 4, characterized in that said flower extract is a petal extract.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said extract is produced by ultrasonic extraction.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises said extract diluted in a physiologically acceptable matrix.

8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the matrix is ​​hydroglycolic.

9. Use according to any preceding claim, characterized in that said extract is combined with one or more additional active ingredients chosen from lightening, anti-blue light, anti-spot, moisturizing, humectant, exfoliating, smoothing, toning, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and fine lines, improving the mechanical and elastic properties of the skin, acting on the skin barrier, matting, unifying, anti-oxidant, anti-free radical, anti-glycant, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, peptides, vitamins and ceramides.