Oil-in-water emulsion and its use in cosmetics

Abstract

Oil-in-water emulsion and its use in cosmetics The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, particularly for cosmetic use, especially for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: - at least one oil phase, - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, - at least one glyceryl ester, and - at least one linoleic acid.

Description

Title of the invention: Oil-in-water emulsion and its use in cosmetics Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care of keratin materials, in particular anti-aging care and / or hydration of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.

[0002] The present invention aims to provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase, at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one glyceryl ester, and at least linoleic acid.

[0003] It relates in particular to the implementation of a composition of the invention for the care and protection of keratin materials such as the skin of the body or face, in particular for anti-aging care and / or hydration of said keratin materials.

[0004] Finally, it relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application to these keratin materials of a composition according to the invention. Prior art

[0005] The skin is a protective barrier and exchange with the environment, which is both strong and fragile, it can, for various reasons, lose its flexibility and its capacity to retain water, causing dryness of the skin.

[0006] It is known that the Stratum Comeum, or horny layer, which is the most superficial area of ​​the epidermis, is particularly involved in skin hydration. Located at the interface with the external environment, its function is to delay excessive water loss from the deeper layers of the epidermis. The Stratum Comeum also protects against mechanical aggression. It also constitutes the first defense against UV radiation.

[0007] For obvious reasons, it is important to ensure a sufficient level of hydration to the skin to preserve its suppleness, softness, tone and / or appearance, and to avoid skin dryness.

[0008] It may also be necessary to maintain this level of hydration over time, and in particular when environmental conditions of temperature and / or humidity are changing (changes during the day cold / hot - hot / cold for example).

[0009] Generally speaking, a decrease in this level of hydration can be prevented or treated by acting at the level of the Stratum Corneum via known moisturizing active ingredients such as, for example, glycerol, or via products whose galenic form allows to slow down transepidermal water loss (TEWL) such as inverse emulsions containing mineral oils and derivatives (W / O), via the deposition of a continuous fatty phase sufficiently occlusive to maintain the hydration rate of the Stratum Corneum. However, some of these active ingredients can make the formulas sticky, especially when used at high concentrations. As for galenics of the inverse emulsion type (W / O), they can have an occlusive nature making a greasy and sticky finish.

[0010] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0011] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0012] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0013] Still in this context, new emulsifying systems capable of meeting both this environmental requirement and presenting adequate properties in terms of sensory experiences and stability are constantly sought.

[0014] An emulsifying system comprising at least one phospholipid, in particular at least hydrogenated lecithin, meets the criterion of respect for the environment. In particular, it has been reported that this emulsifier of natural origin allows the formation of O / W lamellar emulsions offering perfect affinity with the skin, with a velvety, soft and slippery feel.

[0015] Nevertheless, the formulation of compositions for anti-aging care and / or skin hydration, using such an emulsifying system, can prove difficult in terms of stability. Indeed, the release of aqueous exudates has been observed in compositions in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion formulated from such an emulsifier. It has also been observed that compositions formed with such an emulsifier may have a tendency to change color over time, and may, for example, exhibit a strong pinking, depending on the active ingredients and compounds present in these compositions.

[0016] Therefore, a cosmetic composition is sought which is stable, particularly in terms of structure and color, combined with improved properties such as easy application, softness, good spreadability, which does not melt at high temperature on the face, has a soft and light feel, provides an ideal balance between hydration and oil control, and which evens out skin tone. Disclosure of the invention

[0017] Thus, in view of the above, there remains a need for new compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, in particular for the care and / or treatment of keratin materials, which have good microscopic robustness and whose color does not change over time, while having properties, in particular sensory properties, sought by the consumer, that is to say a feeling of comfort during and after application, an absence of soaping, a slippery and non-sticky deposit, a creamy texture and an emollient and light skin finish.

[0018] There also remains a need for eco-designed cosmetic compositions with a high percentage of naturalness, biodegradability and renewability without compromising sensoriality, within the framework of the development of compositions for the care of keratin materials and in particular for anti-aging care and / or hydration of the skin.

[0019] In particular, there remains a need to formulate such compositions having a sensoriality adapted to the needs of cosmetic compositions, in particular anti-aging and / or moisturizing, and having good stability, in particular with regard to the color of the composition.

[0020] Finally, it is advantageous that such compositions use, for the most part, renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin, in order to meet in particular the current demands of consumers, in particular from an environmental point of view.

[0021] The present invention aims precisely to meet these expectations. Summary of the invention

[0022] Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising: - at least one fatty phase, - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, - at least one glyceryl ester, and - at least linoleic acid.

[0023] Indeed, the inventors have found, surprisingly, that the formulation of an association of an emulsifying system comprising at least one phospholipid, in particular at least hydrogenated lecithin, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, in particular chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid), at least one glyceryl ester, and at least linoleic acid in a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, advantageously makes it possible to obtain a composition combining both stability, in particular concerning the color of the composition over time, and excellent sensory performance.

[0024] Furthermore, the compositions thus obtained have good rheological properties, in particular in terms of viscosity and / or texture and particularly advantageous cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of reduced soaping effects during application and after application and a very good moisturizing effect.

[0025] In particular, the compositions obtained have a satisfactory appearance, a flexible texture and are easy to apply and spread. After application, such compositions leave a feeling of freshness, hydration, nutrition, softness and comfort on the skin. Furthermore, no greasy, oily or sticky effect is obtained upon application of these compositions and no feeling of irritation or discomfort is present.

[0026] Finally, the compositions obtained maintain the effects obtained from the moment of application, in particular throughout the day during which a feeling of comfort and freshness remains present. The skin also remains hydrated and soft, it breathes and is not suffocated, nor greasy, nor sticky, nor shiny, and feelings of tightness, dryness, flaking and roughness are avoided.

[0027] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is advantageously more natural while meeting the requirements expected by users in the field of moisturizing compositions. A composition according to the invention finally has excellent stability over time and does not undergo any change in its color over time. A composition according to the invention therefore has the benefit of reassuring the consumer and maintaining their confidence in the composition over time to the extent that the latter has excellent structural and color stability (for example by not undergoing color transformation over time, such as significant pinking).

[0028] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably being free of silicone oil(s).

[0029] A composition according to the invention is in particular used for the care of keratin materials, and preferably for the care of keratin materials.

[0030] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of these aspects, to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.

[0031] Thus, the present application also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care and / or protection of the skin of the body or face.

[0032] In particular, the present application relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in the cosmetic field and in particular for preventing and / or treating symptoms linked to dryness problems on keratin materials, and / or for repairing and strengthening the skin barrier.

[0033] Thus, the present application relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin aging, in particular in order to moisturize the skin.

[0034] It is understood that the methods and processes defined according to the present invention are non-therapeutic.

[0035] Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Detailed description of the invention Composition

[0036] As stated previously, a composition according to the invention may be cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

[0037] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0038] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.

[0039] By "cosmetic" is meant a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0040] By “keratin materials” is meant in particular the skin, mucous membranes, fibers, eyelashes and appendages.

[0041] By "skin" is meant all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, scalp, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back knees, hands, wrists and ankles, or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolleté and neck.

[0042] A cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a direct or oil-in-water emulsion, namely comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a fatty phase, in particular in a content of at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 8% by weight, dispersed in said aqueous phase.

[0043] A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

[0044] Phospholipid

[0045] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one phospholipid.

[0046] The phospholipid is preferably chosen from: - natural phospholipids, including egg or soy lecithin, or sphingomyelin, - chemically or enzymatically modified phospholipids, in particular hydrogenated lecithin, and - synthetic phospholipids, in particular dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine.

[0047] The phospholipid is preferably hydrogenated lecithin.

[0048] Preferably, the phospholipid is present in a mixture with fatty alcohols such as alcohols having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and / or with a fatty acid such as palmitic acid.

[0049] Preferably, the phospholipid is marketed under the INCI name C12-16 ALCOHOLS (and) PALMITIC ACID (and) HYDROGENATED LECITHIN (translated as C12-16 ALCOHOLS (and) PALMITIC ACID (and) HYDROGENATED LECITHIN), and in particular under the reference Biophilic™ H MB from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.

[0050] The phospholipid is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount preferably between 0.01% and 3% by weight of active material, more preferably between 0.05% and 2% by weight of active material, and better still between 0.1% and 1% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0052] As already mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0053] The hydrophilic gelling agent according to the invention may be synthetic or natural.

[0054] The hydrophilic gelling agent (or thickener) may in particular be chosen from:

[0055] 1) carboxyvinyl polymers

[0056] Carboxyvinyl polymers may or may not be modified.

[0057] These may be polyacrylate salts. These are in particular crosslinked polymers and neutralized, in non-particulate form.

[0058] Sodium salts are advantageously preferred. - We can cite in particular polymers bearing the INCI name sodium polyacrylate such as: - Cosmedia SP® or crosslinked sodium polyacrylate containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, Cosmedia SPL® or sodium polyacrylate in inverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry active matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by BASF; and - partially neutralized crosslinked sodium polyacrylates in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM sold by the company BASF or under the name SALCARE AST from CIBA (BASF) (INCI name: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6 (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil).

[0059] Mention may also be made, in particular, of polymers bearing the INCI name sodium polymethacrylate, for example DARVAN® 7-N from the company Vanderbilt.

[0060] Among the carboxyvinyl polymers suitable for the invention, mention may also be made of those marketed under the following names: - Carbopol® (INCI name: carbomer) from the company Goodrich; - Pemulen™ (INCI name: Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) from Goodrich; - AQUPEC MG N40R (INCI name: Sodium Carbomer) from the company SUMITOMO SEIKA; - ACULYN™ 88 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) from Dow Chemical; - ACULYN™ 28 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) from Dow Chemical; - ARISTOFLEX® Velvet by Clariant (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11).

[0061] The carboxyvinyl polymers may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter of between 0.1 and 3% by weight, more particularly between 0.1 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

[0062] 2) polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS). in particular homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the monomer acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), in particular in a form partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base other than ammonia such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0063] These AMPS polymers can be completely or almost completely neutralized. neutralized, that is, neutralized at least 90%.

[0064] These AMPS polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0065] The AMPS polymers suitable for the invention are hydrophilic, i.e. hydro soluble or water-dispersible. They can be: - either “homopolymers” comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above; - either copolymers obtained from AMPS and one or more monomers, for example ethylenically unsaturated, hydrophilic or hydrophobic, and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined below. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, they are preferably present in small quantities.

[0066] By "water-soluble or water-dispersible" is meant polymers which, for example, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, in particular having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%, preferably at least 70%.

[0067] The polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, are for example chosen from:

[0068] a) poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) polymers, in particular homopolymers, polyAMPS, crosslinked and neutralized to at least 90%.

[0069] They are generally characterized by the fact that they include, randomly distributed:

[0070] i) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (1) below: CH Q ' NH---Q---Jry CHS

[0071] in which X+ denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, at most 10 mol% of the cations X+ being able to be protons H+; and

[0072] ii) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0073] This polymer preferably comprises from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (1) and from 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

[0074] The cation X+ represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to that of an alkaline earth metal or the ammonium ion. The preferred cation X+ is the cation NH4+. More particularly, 90 to 100 mol% of the cations are NH4+ cations and 0 to 10 mol% are protons (H+).

[0075] The crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are chosen, for example, from dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetrallyl oxethanoyl or other allyl or vinyl ether polyfunctional alcohols, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, methylene bis acrylamide or divinylbenzene.

[0076] The crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly chosen from those corresponding to the following general formula (2): I "1 I ....0.., .G. 1 HX C CH,r4™C™™-CK—CH.. I « H . । O L .□ 3

[0077] As polymers of this type, mention may in particular be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel™ 800 (INCI name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (and) Polysorbate 80 (and) Sorbitan Oleate) from the company Seppic, crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate) as marketed under the name “Hostacerin® AMPS” by the company Clariant. In particular, as AMPS homopolymers suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, marketed by the company Clariant under the trade name “Hostacerin® AMPS” (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate).

[0078] b) AMPS copolymers, containing in particular water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

[0079] The water-soluble comonomers can be ionic or non-ionic.

[0080] Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, the following compounds and their salts may be mentioned for example: - (meth)acrylic acid, - styrene sulfonic acid, - vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid, - vinyl phosphonic acid, - maleic acid, - itaconic acid, - crotonic acid, - water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula (3):

[0081] in which: - RI is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7; - XI is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR2 where R2 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulfonic group (-SO3-) and / or sulfate (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-).

[0082] Among the non-ionic water-soluble comonomers, we can cite for example: - (meth)acrylamide, - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide, - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide, - maleic anhydride, - vinylamine, - N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam, - vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH, - water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula (4):

[0083] in which: - R3 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7; - X2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR4 where R4 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine), a hydroxyl group (-OH) or ether. Examples that may be mentioned are glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.

[0084] Among the hydrophobic comonomers without fatty chain, we can cite for example: - styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha methylstyrene and vi-

[0085]

[0086]

[0087]

[0088]

[0089]

[0090]

[0091] nyltoluene; - vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3; - vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons; - acrylonitrile; - caprolactone; - vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride; - silicone derivatives, leading after polymerization to silicone polymers, such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides; - hydrophobic vinyl monomers of the following formula (5): HX—CR £1 4 CO i X, in which: - R4 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7; - X3 is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR5 where R5 is a hy radical carbon, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Examples include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobutyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate. AMPS copolymers can be, in particular: (i) copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide, more particularly crosslinked anionic copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide. These copolymers may in particular be crosslinked by a compound with olefinic polyunsaturation such as those chosen from the group consisting of tetraallyloxyethane, allypentaerythritol, methylene bis-acrylamide, allyl-sucrose and pentaerythritol. Preferably, methylene bis-acrylamide is used, partially or totally neutralized by a neutralizing agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or an amine such as triethanolamine. Preferably, said olefinically unsaturated compound is present in the copolymer at a concentration of between 0.06 and 1 millimole per mole of the monomer mixture. The preferred copolymers are obtained by copolymerization, by radical route, of 15-85 mol% of acrylamide and 15-85 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in particular of 30-70 mol% of acrylamide and 30-70 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and even better 55-70 mol% acrylamide and 30-45 mol% 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

[0092] Furthermore, 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid can generally be at least partially neutralized in the form of a salt, for example by sodium hydroxide, by potassium hydroxide, or by a low molecular weight amine such as triethanolamine, or their mixtures.

[0093] The hydrophilic gelling agent that can be used can also be chosen from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

[0094] A crosslinked copolymer particularly preferred in the context of the implementation of the present invention is in particular available under the name Sepigel 305™ sold by the company Seppic (CTFA name polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or AQUAGEL 65 or AQUAGEL 35 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide (and) C9-11 Pareth-6) from the company TINCI MATERIALS; mention may also be made of the product Simulgel™ 600 (CTFA name acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) sold by the company Seppic.

[0095] ii) copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), crosslinked or not, comprising at least in particular one hydrophobic group comprising:

[0096] - from 80 to 99 mol% of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid unit (AMPS) of formula (6) as follows: CH, H------------------x CH. X-

[0097] in which X is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion, it being understood that when X represents an alkaline earth metal cation, it shares 2 positive charges with 2 SO3 groups; and

[0098] - from 1 to 20 mol%, and preferably from 1 to 15 mol% of unit of formula (7) next: R. --CH..---ç---------- à4CH / 7HsO>FH3CH(C^

[0099] in which n and p, independently of one another, denote a number of moles and vary from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 20 provided that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and even better less than 20; RI denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl) and R3 denotes a linear or branched alkyl group comprising m carbon atoms ranging from 6 to 30, preferably from 10 to 25 carbon atoms.

[0100] These polymers are preferably neutralized partially or totally by a mineral base such as, for example, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, or by an organic base such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0102] Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned are divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene bis acrylamide, methylene bis methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallyl ethylene diamine, tetraallyloxy ethane, trimethylol propane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar series alcohols, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters. derivatives of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0103] According to one embodiment, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The crosslinking rate generally ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

[0104] As polymers derived from AMPS which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of polymers prepared from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) or one of its sodium or ammonium salts, with an ester of (meth)acrylic acid and an oxyethylenated C10 to C20 alcohol comprising from 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups.

[0105] According to one embodiment, the polymer derived from AMPS is a copolymer of AMPS and C16-C18 alcohol methacrylate comprising from 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or a salt of methacrylic acid and a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated by 6 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide. The amphiphilic polymer may also be a copolymer of AMPS and methacrylate of C12-C14 alcohol containing 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or a salt of methacrylic acid and a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 6 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide. We can notably mention: - the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from 92.65 mol% of AMPS and 7.35 mol% of C16-C18 alcohol methacrylate containing 8 oxyethylenated groups (Genapol T-080), such as that marketed by the company Clariant under the name Aristoflex® SNC, - the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from 91.5 mol% of AMPS and 8.5 mol% of C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (Genapol LA-070), such as that marketed by the company Clariant under the name Aristoflex® LNC, and - their mixtures.

[0106] As crosslinked AMPS polymers of this type, mention may be made more specifically of that marketed under the name ARISTOFLEX® HMS by the company Clariant, which is a crosslinked AMPS / Ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25 EO) copolymer or that marketed under the name ARISTOFLEX® HMB by the company Clariant, which is a crosslinked AMPS / Ethoxylated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO) copolymer. A mixture of these polymers may also be used.

[0107] As other polymers derived from AMPS, in particular AMPS copolymers, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of: - copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as those used in commercial products sold by Clariant under the name ARISTOFLEX® AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer), ARISTOFLEX® AVS (INCI: Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Crosspolymer), or ARISTOFLEX® AVL from Clariant (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer (and) Trilaureth4 Phosphate (and) Polyglyceryl-2-Sesquiisostearate), for example neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide; - copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, such as for example the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL™ EG (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV™ EMT 10 by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer); - copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL™ NS by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Squalane & Polysorbate 60) or as the commercial product sold under the name SEPINOV™ EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) by the company SEPPIC; and - copolymers of AMPS and biopolymer, such as copolymers of AMPS and polysaccharide, such as the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex® Eco T by the company Clariant (INCI name: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum / Ammonium AMPS Crosspolymer).

[0108] The AMPS polymers and copolymers may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The AMPS polymers have, for example, a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, more particularly from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.

[0109] 3) Heterogeneous polysaccharides

[0110] According to the present invention, the term “heterogeneous polyholoside” means polymers consisting of the association of different oses or oses having the same crude chemical formula but of different geometric configuration (D and L isomers for example).

[0111] These polymers are distinguished both from polyheterosides, which are made up of one or more oses and a non-carbohydrate part, and from homogeneous polyholosides, which result from the association of the same ose.

[0112] Thus, the heterogeneous polyholoside according to the invention is made up solely of oses and results from the association of at least two different oses.

[0113] The polyholosides according to the invention may consist of 2 to 10 oses, compounds commonly called oligoholosides, or of more than 10 oses, compounds commonly called polyholosides.

[0114] The oses present in the polyholoside according to the invention can be chosen from all the oses that can be envisaged, of natural or synthetic origin, and in particular such as: i. aldoses such as: - pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose, for example, - hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example, ii. ketoses such as fructose, iii. deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose, iv. ose derivatives such as uronic acids such as mannuronic, guluronic, galacturonic or glucuronic acids, or itols such as mannitol or sorbitol.

[0115] The polyholoside according to the invention can be branched or linear. It can also be substituted, for example by fatty chains, in particular comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0116] On the other hand, the polyholoside according to the invention may be an alginate (poly man-nuronate and guluronate) such as a sodium alginate, a propylene glycol alginate, a calcium alginate, or a glyceryl alginate.

[0117] However, the heterogeneous polyholoside preferably comprises at least one fucose unit, which may be present in an amount of 10-90% by weight, preferably 15-35% by weight, relative to the weight of dry matter of polyholoside.

[0118] In particular, the polyholoside according to the invention may comprise fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and, for example, may comprise a linear chain of aL-Fucose, a-D-Galactose and galacturonic acid. In this case, it preferably has a viscosity of 800-1200 mPa.s (Brookfield viscosity LV31, 12 rpm, at 30°C) when dissolved in water at a concentration of approximately 1% by weight. Such a polyholoside is available in particular in the form of a 1% solution in water from the company SOLABIA under the trade name Fucogel 1000 PP® (INCI name: Biosaccharide gum-1) or in the form of a 1.1% solution in water from the company SOLABIA under the trade name Fucocert (INCI name: Biosaccharide gum-1 (and) Sodium Levulinate (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Sodium Anisate).

[0119] The polyholosides according to the invention are preferably introduced into the composition in the form of an aqueous solution which may comprise 0.1 to 5% by weight of polyholoside.

[0120] The polyholosides may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter ranging more particularly from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] 4) Glyceryl acrylate polymers

[0122] These glyceryl acrylate polymers are in particular chosen from copolymers of glyceryl acrylate and acrylic acid. Such copolymers are in particular sold under the names “LUBRAJEL® MS”, “LUBRAJEL® CG”, “LUBRAJEL® DV”, “LUBRAJEL® NP”, “LUBRAJEL®L Oil”, “LUBRAJEL® Oil BG”, “LUBRAJEL® PF”, “LUBRAJEL® TW”, “LUBRAJEL® WA” by the company Guardian Laboratories or Ashland. “LUBRAJEL® MS” is preferably used.

[0123] The glyceryl acrylate polymers may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter ranging more particularly from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 2%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] 5) Polysaccharides, in particular polysaccharides produced by microor organisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae and polysaccharides from higher plants.

[0125] The polysaccharides according to the invention can be chosen from: - seaweed extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans include kappa-carrageenan, and in particular the compounds marketed under the names Satiagum UTC30® and Satiagum UTC10® from Cargill; as alginates, mention may be made of sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by ISP, under the name SOBALG PH 460 by DANISCO or under the name Flavikafine™ S by Nisshinbo Chemical; - gums, such as xanthan gums, guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gums, mannan gums, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan or xanthan gums; examples include guar gum marketed under the name Jaguar HP 105® by Solvay; mannan and konjac® gum (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN; Kelco-Care™ diutan gum marketed by Lubrizol (INCI name: Sphingomonas Ferment Extract); SOLAGUM™ TARA 38553F gum marketed by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum); KELCOGEL® CG LA gellan gum marketed by the company CP KELCO (INCI name: Gellan Gum); - modified or unmodified starches, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables such as golden peas, from tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; examples include Remy DR I® rice starch (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) marketed by the company Remy; B® corn starch marketed by the company Roquette (INCI name: Zea May s (Corn) Starch); DRY-FLO® AF modified corn starch marketed by the company AkzoNobel (Nouryon) (INCI name: Corn Starch Modified); STÀRKINA™ NATURAL potato starch marketed by the company AGRANA Stârke (INCI name: Solanum Tuberosum Starch); potato starch modified with 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with soda marketed under the name Structure Solanace® by the company Nouryon;native tapioca starch powder marketed under the name Tapioca pure® by the company Nouryon; StarDesign™ Power starch marketed by the company Cargill (INCI name: Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate); dextrin extracted from corn under the company's name Index®; National Starch; - pectic acids and pectins, such as pectin marketed under the name GENU pHresh™ by the company CP Kelco (INCI name: Pectin); - celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses may be mentioned in particular. Examples include cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Ashland; methyl hydroxyethylcelluloses under the names Tylose® MH 300 and Tylose® MH 1000 from Sigma-Aldrich (INCI: Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose); celluloses and cellulose gums under the name BETAFIB ETD from DKSH (INCI name: Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum); microcrystalline celluloses and cellulose gums under the names NATPURE® CELLGUM PLUS from the company SENSIENT or Avicel® PC 611 from the company DUPONT (INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum); - fructans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, ga-lacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, mucopolysaccharides (glycosaminoglycans) such as chondroitin sulfate; - and their mixtures.

[0126] The polysaccharides may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of dry matter of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] Preferably, polysaccharides chosen from gums, such as xanthan gum, and a carrageenan are used. Preferably, polysaccharides chosen from xanthan gum and a carrageenan are used.

[0128] Xanthan gums have, in particular, a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 g / mol and 50,000,000 g / mol and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscosimeter, LVT type at 60 revolutions per minute).

[0129] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANE™ by the company Cargill Texturizing, under the name NOVAXAN™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

[0130] The composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of the different hydrophilic gelling agents mentioned above.

[0131] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from: - carboxyvinyl polymers, - polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, in particular chosen from (a) poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) polymers, more particularly homopolymers, polyAMPS, crosslinked and neutralized to at least 90%, and (b) copolymers of AMPS, more particularly chosen from (i) copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide, for example crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, (ii) copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked or not crosslinked, comprising at least one hydrophobic group, (iii) copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, (iv) copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, (v) copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, and (vi) copolymers of AMPS and biopolymer; - heterogeneous polysaccharides, - glyceryl acrylate polymers, - polysaccharides, and - their mixtures.

[0132] According to another particular embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, such as the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, notably marketed by the company Clariant under the trade name “Hostacerin® AMPS” (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate).

[0133] Said hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid may be present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] According to yet another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in particular a crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and at least one additional gelling agent, in particular chosen from polysaccharides, in particular as described above, more particularly xanthan gum or a carrageenan.

[0135] It has notably been observed that in the presence of xanthan gum, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention can be refined. Otherwise said, the microscopic appearance of a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprising xanthan gum is advantageously finer, in comparison with a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention not comprising xanthan gum.

[0136] Said additional gelling agent may be present in a content of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] Glyceryl Esters

[0138] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one glyceryl ester.

[0139] In one embodiment, said at least one glyceryl ester (or (poly)glyceryl ester) may be chosen from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, said at least one glyceryl ester is glyceryl stearate citrate.

[0140] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least glyceryl stearate citrate.

[0141] The amount of glyceryl ester, and preferably glyceryl stearate citrate, may vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Linoleic acid

[0143] A composition according to the invention also comprises at least linoleic acid.

[0144] The amount of linoleic acid may vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least linoleic acid and also at least one other fatty acid.

[0146] The term “fatty acid”, as used herein, means a carboxylic acid having a long aliphatic carbon chain. In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from fatty acids having at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 carbon atoms. Said at least at least one fatty acid is preferably selected from fatty acids comprising up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment, said at least one fatty acid may be selected from C4-C26 fatty acids, preferably from C6-C24 fatty acids, and more preferably from C8-C22 fatty acids. The fatty acid may be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. The fatty acid may therefore be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C26, preferably C6-C24, and more preferably C8-C22 fatty acids.

[0147] In a particular embodiment, as unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid, one or more monounsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids may be used. The unsaturation of the unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids may result from at least one carbon-carbon double bond or one carbon-carbon triple bond.

[0148] Saturated fatty acids for use in a composition according to the invention may include, for example, caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), pentadecanoic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), heptadecanoic acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecanoic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22), and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0149] Unsaturated fatty acids for use in a composition according to the invention may include, for example, myristoleic acid (Ci4), palmitoleic acid (Ci6), oleic acid (Ci8), linoleic acid (Ci8), linolenic acid (Ci8), elaidic acid (Ci8), arachidonic acid (C20), eicosenoic acid (C20), erucic acid (C22), and nervonic acid (C24).

[0150] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from unsaturated fatty acids, and preferably C8-C22 unsaturated fatty acids, and more preferably C8-C22 unsaturated fatty acids with one, two or three carbon-carbon double bonds. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from the group consisting of linolenic acid, oleic acid, and their mixture. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from saturated fatty acids, and preferably C8-C22 saturated fatty acids.In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and their mixture.

[0151] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from saturated fatty acids, and preferably C8-C22 saturated fatty acids, and at least one fatty acid chosen from unsaturated fatty acids, and preferably C8-C22 unsaturated fatty acids. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid chosen from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid and their mixture. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least linoleic acid, and at least linolenic acid. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least the mixture consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, linolenic acid and oleic acid.

[0152] In a particular embodiment, a mixture of fatty acids for use in a composition according to the invention and comprising at least linoleic acid and linolenic acid is called "Vitamin F". In a particular embodiment, "Vitamin F" means a mixture of a plurality of fatty acids including at least linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and which may include other saturated or unsaturated fatty acids as described above, and preferably chosen from oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.

[0153] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the mixture of fatty acids marketed by the company Stéarinerie DUBOIS under the trade name “DUB OMEGA 8” (INCI name: LINOLEIC ACID (and) OLEIC ACID (and) PALMITIC ACID (and) LINOLENIC ACID).

[0154] When the composition according to the present invention contains linolenic acid, the amount of linolenic acid can vary from 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] Aqueous phase

[0156] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one physiologically acceptable aqueous phase. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0157] The composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The aqueous phase is the continuous phase.

[0158] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally one or more polyol(s). According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.

[0159] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase is present in a content of between 65% and 95% by weight, preferably between 70% and 92% by weight, and more preferably between 74% and 82% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] Polyols

[0161] For the purposes of the invention, the term polyol means: - a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions; or - a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, such as, for example, polyethylene glycols (PEG) having 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units.

[0162] Preferably, the polyol(s) have a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.

[0163] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12, and better still from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0164] The polyol(s) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythrityl, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol.

[0165] Among these polyols, glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof are preferably chosen.

[0166] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, in particular are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythrityl tetrahydrofuran, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0167] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0168] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity of polyols can range for example from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 18% by weight, better still from 5% to 16% by weight, better still from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] Fatty phase

[0170] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase. Said fatty phase may contain at least one cosmetic oil. It may also contain at least one other fatty substance.

[0171] By “oil” is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0172] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (for information 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0173] As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, we can cite for example: - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil; - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate (which is a mixture of C16 and C18 alkyl esters with isononanoic acid), isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate;and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate; ; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, alkanes containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as in particular C15-19 alkanes such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L19, branched-chain hydrocarbon oils containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, Parléam® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by the company AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by the company SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by the company WITCO, or even PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation.Among the preferred linear or branched hydrocarbons of synthetic origin, mention may be made of squalane, which is an oil resulting from the hydrogenation of squalene; or - their mixtures.

[0174] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, preferably chosen from alkanes comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as in particular C15-19 alkanes.

[0175] The amount of oil in the composition may range, for example, from 0.1% to 15%, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone. By "silicone" is meant in particular silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxy-diphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl tri-siloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, or polymethylphenyl-siloxanes.

[0177] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably being free of silicone oil(s).

[0178] According to one embodiment, the fatty phase is present in a content of between 5% and 35% by weight, in particular between 8% and 30%, even more particularly between 10% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] Additives

[0180] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive, in particular chosen from the additives detailed below.

[0181] Of course, the additive(s) possibly present in a composition according to the invention are chosen so as not to alter the properties of the composition, in particular in terms of stability, but also sensory properties.

[0182] Preferably, the additives suitable for the present invention are natural or of natural origin.

[0183] Assets

[0184] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0185] As cosmetic active ingredients, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, anti-bacterial agents, vitamins and their derivatives, antioxidant compounds, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizing active ingredient.

[0187] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizing active ingredient.

[0188] Cosmetic composition

[0189] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0190] It can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, or a milk.

[0191] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. This may be the skin of the face and / or the body, in particular the face and / or the neck and / or the hands.

[0192] The composition according to the invention may comprise all the constituents usually used in the application and topical administration envisaged.

[0193] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed after application.

[0194] Uses and methods

[0195] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a method for the care or cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials, a composition as defined in the present invention.

[0196] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care and / or protection of the skin of the body or face.

[0197] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field and in particular for preventing and / or treating symptoms linked to dryness problems on keratin materials, and / or for repairing and strengthening the skin barrier.

[0198] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0199] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by administering topically a composition according to the invention.

[0200] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques of use of these compositions.

[0201] According to an alternative embodiment, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin previously cleaned using a washing solution.

[0202] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0203] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0204] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are “expressed as % of raw material”, more precisely as % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] In the examples, the temperature is ambient (20°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated. Examples

[0206] MATERIALS AND METHODS

[0207] Stability measurement

[0208] The stability of the compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol:

[0209] The following first checks are carried out on a minimum test composition 16 hours after manufacturing: - organoleptic controls (appearance, color, odor); - a pH measurement (at 25°C): measurement taken using a pH meter; - a viscosity measurement (at 25°C): measurement taken using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM 100 PLUS from Lamy Rheology (equipped with a thermostatic bath), notation of the values ​​at 30 seconds and 10 minutes; - centrifugation carried out for 1 hour at 900g followed by a check of the absence of signs of destabilization (such as release, sedimentation, creaming, etc.); and - a microscopic observation of a sample of the composition crushed between a slide and a coverslip in unpolarized light and in polarized light, with a magnification of xlOO (times 100), the characterization of the observation being carried out in particular by the evaluation of the fineness of the emulsion, the mesh of the center, the regularity of the emulsion, the edges, the anisotropy or isotropy.

[0210] 2) The composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at different temperatures. temperatures, in particular at 4°C, at room temperature noted TA, at 45°C and at 55°C. The temperature can be regulated, for example, using an oven, in particular for a temperature equal to 45°C or 55°C, for example of the Bio concept brand from Firlabo, or a refrigerator, in particular for a temperature equal to 4°C.

[0211] Checks are carried out after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above. In particular, the checks carried out are as follows: - macroscopic appearance: control of the visual appearance and texture, in particular the consistency; and verification of the absence of signs of instability, for example, caking or softening, appearance of grains, release, creaming, coalescence, formation of a film, visualization of marbling, exudate; - color: evaluation of the potential color evolution of the samples compared to the 4°C sample known as the “control” sample; - odor: evaluation of the potential evolution of odor of the samples compared to the 4°C sample called the “control” sample; - microscopic appearance: evaluation of the potential evolution of the microscopic appearance in unpolarized light and polarized light (magnification xlOO); - pH, only for samples at 2 months at RT and at 2 months at 45°C; and - viscosity, only for samples only at 2 months at RT and at 2 months at 45°C.

[0212] The closer the controls of the composition after 1 month and / or 2 months of storage are to the controls carried out at a time greater than 16 hours from manufacture, the more the composition can be considered to remain stable. In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without release or phase separation, with an acceptable evolution of color, odor, viscosity, pH and microscopic appearance, then the composition is considered to be stable.

[0213] Protocol for preparing the compositions

[0214] The composition F1 according to the invention and the comparative composition C1 of table 1 below are prepared by the following protocol:

[0215] The ingredients of phase A are mixed, with gentle stirring, and heated to 65-70°C;

[0216] The ingredients of phase B (at approximately 20-30°C) are added to phase A and phase B is emulsified in phase A for 5 minutes; then diluted with water (at approximately 20-30°C) while continuing to emulsify for 5 minutes.

[0217] The whole is cooled with moderate stirring;

[0218] Then phase C is added at a temperature <30°C, and the ingredients are mixed with vigorous stirring before allowing the whole to cool with gentle stirring.

[0219] Example 1

[0220] The compositions F1 according to the invention and C1 (outside the invention) are obtained according to the preparation protocol described previously. [Tables 1] Phase Ingredient (expressed in % of raw material) Fl (according to Fiméntnm) Cl Comparative out-of-the-box A GLYCERINE 10.0 w,o A ALCOHOL BEHLNYLiQCE: L5 E5 A ETHYLE OLEATE K 4.2483 4.2483 A VIT CITY CITY EN) AND IL « A C12-16 ALCOHOL. YES ACID ! PALM (and) LECITHINE | HYDROGI NT! 25 iMtkHuhc H MB • of 1 ue.ts Mm'* LOMlR'tRSÏ' 2,5 A ( ouses valeurs 0,8 0.8 A ANrîÜXlUWI (UN P 0,04 PA EMOLLIENTS* 3T1 3.01 A BUTTER DE K. BUl'll Rr 4L 4.0 A \MMO\HM POLYACRYÎ OYLDIME1 HYL TAURATE 1.0 1.0 A. XANTHANE GUM 0.1 tu B WATER QS QS ® U i QA]llsKw^ pH Z Citric Z ......... EN...... iq. Ai'HH DI I 1QI 1 reH OT fai MrnonuD^ uodf snARipl F reü ACID I ÏNOI I MQl F > -DUE OMEGA 6- of VI E )R1NLRÎE ÜUBOïS)* QSPpHSJ^ 2''' W 1 2Z2iCI 1 ^ingredients making up the fat phase

[0221] Results:

[0222] When evaluating the stability and color of compositions F1 and C1, a difference in color evolution between the two compositions is observed, which is more marked after 2 months at 45°C or even after 7 days at 55°C. In particular, after 2 months at 45°C, composition F1 comprising glyceryl stearate citrate does not undergo any color evolution, compared to composition C1 without glyceryl stearate citrate. glyceryl stearate. The Cl composition has in fact turned strongly pink, and therefore cannot be considered stable over time.

[0223] Conclusion: a composition further comprising glyceryl stearate citrate, exhibits limited or no color change after 2 months at 45°C and corresponds to a stable emulsion, in comparison with a composition devoid of this compound.

[0224] Example 2- consumer tests

[0225] The composition Fl was tested on different panels of consumers, such as women aged 25 to 40 and 41 to 75. The results obtained show that the composition according to the invention has the following advantages: - a satisfactory appearance, a fluid texture, easy to apply and spread; - after application, the composition leaves a feeling of freshness, hydration, nutrition, softness and comfort; and - after application and throughout the day, a feeling of comfort and freshness remains present, the skin remains hydrated and soft, the skin breathes and is not suffocated, greasy or sticky, and feelings of tightness, dryness, flaking and roughness are avoided.]

Claims

Claims

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises: - at least one fatty phase, - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, - at least one glyceryl ester, and - at least linoleic acid.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the phospholipid is chosen from: - natural phospholipids, in particular egg or soy lecithin, or sphingomyelin, - chemically or enzymatically modified phospholipids, in particular hydrogenated lecithin, and - synthetic phospholipids, in particular dipalmitoylphosphati-dylcholine, in particular hydrogenated lecithin.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the phospholipid is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the phospholipid is present in a mixture with fatty alcohols such as alcohols having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and / or with a fatty acid such as palmitic acid.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: - carboxyvinyl polymers; - polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, in particular chosen from (a) poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) polymers, more particularly homopolymers, polyAMPS, crosslinked and neutralized to at least 90%, and (b) copolymers of AMPS, more particularly chosen from (i) copolymers of AMPS and acrylamide, for example crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, (ii) copolymers 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid derivatives, crosslinked or not, comprising at least one hydrophobic group, (iii) copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, (iv) copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, (v) copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, and (vi) copolymers of AMPS and biopolymer; - heterogeneous polysaccharides; - glyceryl acrylate polymers; - polysaccharides; and - mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, such as the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, which may be present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in particular a crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and at least one additional gelling agent chosen from polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum or a carrageenan, said additional gelling agent being even more particularly present in a content of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase is present in a content of between 5% and 35% by weight, preferably between 8% and 30% by weight and even more particularly between 10% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, comprising less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably being free of silicone oil(s).

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims also comprising at least one fatty acid chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, and more preferably in C8-C22.

11. Composition according to any preceding claim in which the amount of linoleic acid varies from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glyceryl ester (or (poly)glyceryl ester) may be chosen from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, or mixtures thereof, and is preferably glyceryl stearate citrate.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the quantity of glyceryl ester varies from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 65% to 95% by weight of aqueous phase, preferably from 70% to 92% by weight, and more preferably from 72% to 82% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.

16. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 in the non-therapeutic cosmetic field, and in particular for the care of the skin of the body or face.

17. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 in the non-therapeutic cosmetic field, and in particular for preventing and / or treating symptoms linked to dryness problems on keratin materials, and / or for repairing and strengthening the skin barrier.