Oil-in-water emulsion and its use in cosmetics

Abstract

Oil-in-water emulsion and its use in cosmetics The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, particularly for cosmetic use, especially for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: - at least one oil phase, - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, - at least one glyceryl ester, and - at least one linoleic acid.

Description

Title of the invention: Oil-in-water emulsion and its use in cosmetics technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of keratinous material care, in particular anti-aging care and / or hydration of keratinous materials, especially of the skin.

[0002] The present invention aims to provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one oily phase, at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one glyceryl ester, and at least one linoleic acid.

[0003] It relates in particular to the implementation of a composition of the invention for the care and protection of keratinous materials such as the skin of the body or face, in particular for anti-aging care and / or hydration of said keratinous materials.

[0004] It also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention. Previous technique

[0005] The skin is a protective barrier and exchange with the environment, which is both strong and fragile; it can, for various reasons, lose its suppleness and its ability to retain water, causing dry skin.

[0006] It is known that the stratum comeum, or comeal layer, which is the outermost layer of the epidermis, plays a particularly important role in skin hydration. Located at the interface with the external environment, its function is, in particular, to delay excessive water loss from the deeper layers of the epidermis. The stratum comeum also protects against mechanical damage. It also constitutes the first line of defense against UV radiation.

[0007] For obvious reasons, it is important to ensure a sufficient level of hydration to the skin to preserve its suppleness, softness, tone and / or appearance, and to avoid skin dryness.

[0008] It may also be necessary to maintain this level of hydration over time, and in particular when environmental conditions of temperature and / or humidity are changing (changes during the day cold / hot - hot / cold for example).

[0009] Generally speaking, a decrease in this hydration level can be prevented or treated by acting on the stratum corneum using known moisturizing agents such as, for example, glycerol, or using products whose formulation slows transepidermal water loss (TEWL), such as inverse emulsions containing mineral oils and derivatives (W / O), by depositing a continuous oily phase sufficiently occlusive to maintain the hydration level of the stratum corneum. However, some of these agents can make the formulas sticky, particularly when used at high concentrations. As for inverse emulsion formulations (W / O), they can have an occlusive nature, resulting in a greasy and sticky finish.

[0010] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0011] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling us to meet these environmental challenges.

[0012] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0013] Still in this context, new emulsifying systems capable of meeting both this environmental requirement and exhibiting adequate properties in terms of sensory perception and stability are constantly being sought.

[0014] An emulsifying system comprising at least one phospholipid, in particular at least one hydrogenated lecithin, meets the environmental criterion. In particular, it has been reported that this emulsifier of natural origin allows the formation of lamellar oil-in-water emulsions offering perfect affinity with the skin, with a velvety, soft, and smooth feel.

[0015] However, formulating compositions for anti-aging and / or skin hydration using such an emulsifying system can prove difficult in terms of stability. Indeed, the release of aqueous exudates has been observed in oil-in-water emulsion compositions formulated with such an emulsifier. It has also been noted that compositions formed with such an emulsifier may tend to change color over time. and may, for example, exhibit a strong pinkish tint, depending on the active ingredients and compounds present in these compositions.

[0016] Therefore, a stable cosmetic composition is sought, particularly in terms of structure and color, combined with improved properties such as easy application, softness, good spreading ability, which does not melt at high temperatures on the face, has a soft and light feel, provides an ideal balance between hydration and oil control, and evens out skin tone. Description of the invention

[0017] Thus, in view of the above, there remains a need for new compositions, particularly cosmetic ones, especially for the care and / or treatment of keratinous materials, which exhibit good microscopic robustness and whose color does not change over time, while exhibiting properties, particularly sensory ones, sought after by the consumer, namely a feeling of comfort during and after application, no soaping, a smooth and non-sticky deposit, a creamy texture and a light, emollient skin finish.

[0018] There also remains a need for eco-designed cosmetic compositions with a high percentage of naturalness, biodegradability and renewability without compromising sensoriality, in the context of the development of compositions for the care of keratinous materials and in particular for anti-aging care and / or skin hydration.

[0019] In particular, there remains a need to formulate such compositions with a sensoriality adapted to the needs of cosmetic compositions, especially anti-aging and / or moisturizing, and with good stability, particularly with regard to the color of the composition.

[0020] Finally, it is advantageous that such compositions use, for the most part, renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin, in order to meet in particular current consumer requirements, especially from an environmental point of view.

[0021] The present invention is specifically designed to meet these expectations. Summary of the invention

[0022] Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: - at least one oil phase, - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, - at least one glyceryl ester, and - at least one linoleic acid.

[0023] Indeed, the inventors have found, surprisingly, that the formulation of an association of an emulsifying system comprising at least one phospholipid, in particular at least one hydrogenated lecithin, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, in particular chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, possibly cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid), at least one glyceryl ester, and at least one linoleic acid in a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, advantageously makes it possible to obtain a composition combining both stability, in particular with regard to the color of the composition over time, and excellent sensory performance.

[0024] In addition, the compositions thus obtained exhibit good rheological properties, particularly in terms of viscosity and / or texture, and particularly advantageous cosmetic properties, especially in terms of reduced soaping effects during and after application and a very good moisturizing effect.

[0025] In particular, the resulting compositions have a satisfactory appearance, a supple texture, and are easy to apply and spread. After application, such compositions leave the skin feeling fresh, hydrated, nourished, soft, and comfortable. Furthermore, no greasy, oily, or sticky residue is produced upon application of these compositions, and no sensation of irritation or discomfort is present.

[0026] Finally, the resulting compositions maintain the effects obtained immediately upon application, particularly throughout the day, during which a feeling of comfort and freshness persists. The skin also remains hydrated and soft; it breathes and is not suffocated, oily, sticky, or shiny, and sensations of tightness, dryness, flaking, and roughness are avoided.

[0027] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is advantageously more natural while meeting the requirements expected by users in the field of moisturizing compositions. A composition according to the invention also exhibits excellent stability over time and does not undergo any change in color over time. A composition according to the invention therefore has the benefit of reassuring the consumer and maintaining their confidence in the composition over time, insofar as the latter exhibits excellent structural and colonic stability (for example, by not undergoing colonic transformation over time, such as significant pinking).

[0028] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), in relation to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably being free of silicone oil(s).

[0029] A composition according to the invention is in particular implemented for the care of keratinous materials, and preferably for the care of keratinous materials.

[0030] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of these aspects, to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to the invention.

[0031] Thus, the present application also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care and / or protection of the skin of the body or face.

[0032] In particular, the present application relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in the cosmetic field and in particular to prevent and / or treat symptoms related to dryness problems on keratinous materials, and / or to repair and strengthen the skin barrier.

[0033] Thus, the present application relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin aging, in particular in order to moisturize the skin.

[0034] It is understood that the processes and methods defined according to the present invention are non-therapeutic.

[0035] Other features, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become clearer from the description and examples that follow. Detailed description of the invention Composition

[0036] As stated previously, a composition according to the invention can be cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

[0037] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0038] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying this composition.

[0039] By "cosmetic," we mean a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, and hair. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

[0040] By "keratinous materials", we mean in particular skin, mucous membranes, fibers, eyelashes and hair appendages.

[0041] By "skin" we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, scalp, décolletage, neck, arms and forearms, eyelids, around the mouth or behind the ears, the hollow of the elbow, the back of the knees, hands, wrists and ankles, or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), décolletage and neck.

[0042] A cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a direct or oil-in-water emulsion, namely comprising a continuous aqueous phase and an oily phase, in particular in a content of at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 8% by weight, dispersed in said aqueous phase.

[0043] A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

[0044] Phospholipid

[0045] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one phospholipid.

[0046] The phospholipid is preferably chosen from: - natural phospholipids, notably egg or soy lecithin, or sphingomyelin, - phospholipids modified by chemical or enzymatic means, in particular hydrogenated lecithin, and - synthetic phospholipids, notably dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine.

[0047] The phospholipid is preferably hydrogenated lecithin.

[0048] Preferably, the phospholipid is present in a mixture with fatty alcohols such as alcohols having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, and / or with a fatty acid such as palmitic acid.

[0049] Preferably, the phospholipid is marketed under the INCI name C12-16 ALCOHOLS (and) PALMITIC ACID (and) HYDROGENATED LECITHIN (translated as C12-16 ALCOHOLS (and) PALMITIC ACID (and) HYDROGENATED LECITHIN), and in particular under the reference Biophilic™ H MB of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.

[0050] The phospholipid is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount preferably between 0.01% and 3% by weight of active material, more preferably between 0.05% and 2% by weight of active material, and better between 0.1% and 1% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0052] As already mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0053] The hydrophilic gelling agent according to the invention can be synthetic or natural.

[0054] The hydrophilic gelling (or thickening) agent may be chosen in particular from:

[0055] 1) carboxyvinyl polymers

[0056] Carboxylic polymers may or may not be modified.

[0057] These may be polyacrylate salts. In particular, they are crosslinked and neutralized polymers in non-particulate form.

[0058] Sodium salts are advantageously preferred. Examples include polymers with the INCI name sodium polyacrylate, such as: - Cosmedia SP® or cross-linked sodium polyacrylate containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, Cosmedia SPL® or inverse emulsion sodium polyacrylate containing approximately 60% dry active matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by BASF; and - partially neutralized crosslinked sodium polyacrylates in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM sold by BASF or under the name SALCARE AST from CIBA (BASF) (INCI name: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6 (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil).

[0059] We can also mention, in particular, polymers bearing the INCI name sodium polymethacrylate, for example DARVAN® 7-N from the Vanderbilt company.

[0060] Among the carboxyvinyl polymers suitable for the invention, mention may also be made of those marketed under the following names: - Carbopol® (INCI name: carbomer) from the Goodrich company; - Pemulen™ (INCI name: Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) from the Goodrich company; - AQUPEC MG N40R (INCI name: Sodium Carbomer) from the company SUMITOMO SEIKA; - ACULYN™ 88 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) from Dow Chemical; - ACULYN™ 28 POLYMER (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) from Dow Chemical; - ARISTOFLEX® Velvet by Clariant (INCI: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11).

[0061] Carboxyvinyl polymers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content of between 0.1 and 3% by weight, more particularly between 0.1 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] 2) 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers (AMPS). In particular, homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the monomer acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), particularly in a form partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base other than ammonia such as soda or potash.

[0063] These AMPS polymers can be totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. neutralized to at least 90%.

[0064] These AMPS polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0065] The AMPS polymers suitable for the invention are hydrophilic, that is to say They can be water-soluble or water-dispersible. They can be: - either "homopolymers" consisting only of AMPS monomers and, if crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above; - either copolymers obtained from AMPS and one or more monomers, for example, with ethylenic unsaturation, hydrophilic or hydrophobic, and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined below. When said copolymers contain hydrophobic monomers with ethylenic unsaturation, these are preferably present in small quantities.

[0066] By "water-soluble or water-dispersible", we mean polymers which, for example, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration of 1%, allow the obtaining of a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, in particular having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength of 500 nm, through a 1 cm thick sample, of at least 60%, preferably of at least 70%.

[0067] Polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized, are for example selected from:

[0068] a) poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) polymers, in particular homopolymers, polyAMPS, crosslinked and neutralized to at least 90%.

[0069] They are generally characterized by the fact that they comprise, distributed randomly:

[0070] i) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of motifs of the following general formula (1): \ I □ z HH C CH, SO, X CH3

[0071] in which X+ designates a cation or a mixture of cations, at most 10 molar percent of the X+ cations being protons H+; and

[0072] ii) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking motifs from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined in relation to the total weight of the polymer.

[0073] This polymer preferably comprises 98 to 99.5% by weight of formula motifs (1) and 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking motifs.

[0074] The X+ cation represents a cation or a mixture of cations selected in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, an equivalent cation of an alkaline earth metal, or the ammonium ion. The preferred X+ cation is the NH4+ cation. More specifically, 90 to 100 mole percent of the cations are NH4+ cations and 0 to 10 mole percent are protons (H+).

[0075] Crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are chosen for example from dipropylene glycol diallylether, polyglycol diallylethers, triethylene glycol divinlether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetrallyl oxethanoyl or other polyfunctional allyl or vinyl ether alcohols, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallylether, methylen-bis-acrylamide or divinylbenzene.

[0076] Crosslinking monomers having at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly chosen from those corresponding to the following general formula (2): I R s II ____ c ___ ii O ii L □ 3

[0077] Examples of polymers of this type include crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Shnulgel™ 800 (INCI name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (and) Polysorbate 80 (and) Sorbitan Oleate) from Seppic, and crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate) such as that marketed under the name "Hostacerin® AMPS" by Clariant. In particular, as suitable AMPS homopolymers for the invention, one can cite the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, marketed by Clariant under the trade name "Hostacerin® AMPS" (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate).

[0078] b) AMPS copolymers, including water-soluble ethylenic unsaturation monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

[0079] Water-soluble co-monomers can be ionic or non-ionic.

[0080] Among the ionic water-soluble co-monomers, the following compounds and their salts may be cited as examples: - (meth)acrylic acid, - styrene sulfonic acid, - vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid, - phosphonic vinyl acid, - maleic acid, - itaconic acid, - crotonic acid, - water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula (3): —UrG 1 CO ! X,

[0081] in which: - RI is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7; - XI is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR2 where R2 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulfonic group (-SO3-) and / or sulfate (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-).

[0082] Among the non-ionic water-soluble co-monomers, examples include: - (meth)acrylamide, - N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide, - N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide, - maleic anhydride, - vinylamine, - N-vinyllactams containing a cyclic alkyl group with 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam, - vinyl alcohol with the formula CH2=CHOH, - water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula (4):

[0083] in which: - R3 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7; - X2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR4 where R4 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons, possibly substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine, fluorine), a hydroxyl group (-OH) or an ether. Examples include glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.

[0084] Among hydrophobic comonomers without a fat chain, examples include: - styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha methylstyrene and vinyltoluene; - vinyl acetate with the formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3; - vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons; - acrylonitrile; - caprolactone; - vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride; - silicone derivatives, leading after polymerization to silicone polymers, such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides; - hydrophobic vinyl monomers of the following formula (5): H?C ™CR s CO i X3

[0085] in which: - R4 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7; - X3 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR5 where R5 is a radical hydrocarbon, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0086] Examples include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobomyl acrylate, and 2-hexyl ethyl acrylate.

[0087] AMPS copolymers may be, in particular:

[0088] i) AMPS and acrylamide copolymers, more particularly AMPS and acrylamide crosslinked anionic copolymers.

[0089] These copolymers can, in particular, be crosslinked by an olefin polyunsaturated compound such as those selected from the group consisting of tetraallyloxyethane, allypentaerythritol, methylene bis-acrylamide, allylsucrose, and pentaerythritol. Preferably, methylene bis-acrylamide is used. partially or totally neutralized by a neutralizing agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or an amine such as triethanolamine.

[0090] Preferably, said olefinic polyunsaturation compound is present in the copolymer at a concentration of between 0.06 and 1 millimole per mole of the monomer mixture.

[0091] The preferred copolymers are obtained by copolymerization, by radical means, of 15-85% by moles of acrylamide and 15-85% by moles of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in particular of 30-70% by moles of acrylamide and 30-70% by moles of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and even better of 55-70% by moles of acrylamide and 30-45% by moles of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

[0092] Furthermore, 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid can generally be at least partially neutralized in the form of a salt, for example by sodium hydroxide, by potassium hydroxide, or by a low molecular weight amine such as triethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.

[0093] The hydrophilic gelling agent that may be used can also be chosen from crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

[0094] A crosslinked copolymer particularly preferred in the context of the implementation of the present invention is notably available under the name Sepigel 305™ sold by the company Seppic (CTFA name polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or AQUAGEL 65 or AQUAGEL 35 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide (and) C9-11 Pareth-6) from the company TINCI MATERIALS; we can also mention the product Simulgel™ 600 (CTFA name acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) sold by the company Seppic.

[0095] ii) copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least one hydrophobic group including:

[0096] - 80 to 99% by moles of the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid motif (AMPS) of the following formula (6): --■CiV-ÇH----------- ÇH, HH------------------ CH,

[0097] wherein X is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation, or the ammonium ion, it being understood that when X represents an alkaline earth metal cation, it shares 2 positive charges with 2 SO3 groups; and

[0098] - from 1 to 20% by moles, and preferably from 1 to 15% by moles of motif of formula (7) next: R, 5 s .......--ç----------

[0099] in which n and p, independently of each other, denote a number of moles and vary from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 20 provided that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and even better less than 20; RI denotes a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl) and R3 denotes a linear or branched alkyl group comprising m carbon atoms ranging from 6 to 30, preferably from 10 to 25 carbon atoms.

[0100] These polymers are preferably neutralized partially or totally by a mineral base such as, for example, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, or by an organic base such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] When the polymer is crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from among the olefinic polyunsaturating compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0102] Examples of crosslinking agents include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallylether, polyglycol diallylethers, triethylene glycol divinylether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene bis-acrylamide, methylene bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallylether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of sugar alcohols, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allylic esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and / or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0103] According to one embodiment, the crosslinking agent is selected from methylenebis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate, or trimethylol propane triacrylate. (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10% by mole and more specifically from 0.2 to 2% by mole relative to the polymer.

[0104] As examples of AMPS-derived polymers usable in the composition according to the invention, we can mention polymers prepared from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) or one of its sodium or ammonium salts, with an ester of (meth)acrylic acid and an oxyethylenated C20-CIO alcohol comprising 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups.

[0105] According to one embodiment, the AMPS-derived polymer is a copolymer of AMPS and a C16-C18 alcohol methacrylate comprising 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or a methacrylic acid salt and a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 6 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide. The amphiphilic polymer may also be a copolymer of AMPS and a C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate comprising 6 to 25 oxyethylenated groups, obtained from methacrylic acid or a methacrylic acid salt and a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 6 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide. Examples include: - the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from 92.65% by moles of AMPS and 7.35% by moles of C16-C18 alcohol methacrylate comprising 8 oxyethylenated groups (Genapol T-080), such as that marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex® SNC, - the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from 91.5% by moles of AMPS and 8.5% by moles of C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate comprising 7 oxyethylenated groups (Genapol LA-070), such as that marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex® LNC, and - their mixtures.

[0106] Examples of crosslinked AMPS polymers of this type include ARISTOFLEX® HMS, marketed by Clariant, which is a crosslinked AMPS / ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25 EO) copolymer, and ARISTOFLEX® HMB, marketed by Clariant, which is a crosslinked AMPS / ethoxylated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO) copolymer. A mixture of these polymers may also be used.

[0107] Other AMPS-derived polymers, particularly AMPS copolymers, that can be used in the composition according to the invention include: - copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as those used in commercial products sold by Clariant under the names ARISTOFLEX® AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer), ARISTOFLEX® A VS (INCI: Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Crosspolymer), or ARISTOFLEX® AVL from Clariant (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer (and) Trilaureth4 Phosphate (and) Polyglyceryl-2-Sesquiisostearate), for example neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide; - copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate, such as the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer as used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL™ EG (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV™ EMT 10 by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer); - copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as the AMPS / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL™ NS by SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Squalane & Polysorbate 60) or in the commercial product sold under the name SEPINOV™ EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) by SEPPIC; and - copolymers of AMPS and biopolymer, such as copolymers of AMPS and polysaccharide, such as the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex® Eco T by the company Clariant (INCI name: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum / Ammonium AMPS Crosspolymer).

[0108] The AMPS polymers and copolymers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The AMPS polymers have, for example, a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, more particularly from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.

[0109] 3) Heterogeneous polysaccharides

[0110] By "heterogeneous polyholoside", according to the present invention, means polymers made up of the association of different sugars or of sugars having the same general chemical formula but of different geometric configuration (D and L isomers for example).

[0111] These polymers are distinguished both from polyheterosides, which are made up of one or more sugars and a non-carbohydrate part, and from homogeneous polyholosides, which result from the association of the same sugar.

[0112] Thus, the heterogeneous polyholoside according to the invention consists solely of sugars and results from the association of at least two different sugars.

[0113] The polyholosides according to the invention can consist of 2 to 10 sugars, compounds commonly called oligoholosides, or of more than 10 sugars, compounds commonly called polyholosides.

[0114] The sugars present in the polyholoside according to the invention can be chosen from all conceivable sugars, of natural or synthetic origin, and in particular such as: i. aldoses such as: - pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose, for example, - hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example, ii. ketoses such as fructose, iii. deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose, iv. sugar derivatives such as uronic acids like mannuronic, guluronic, galacturonic or glucuronic acid, or itols like mannitol or sorbitol.

[0115] The polyholoside according to the invention can be branched or linear. It can also be substituted, for example by fatty chains, in particular comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0116] On the other hand, the polyholoside according to the invention can be an alginate (polymannuronate and guluronate) such as a sodium alginate, a propylene glycol alginate, a calcium alginate, or a glyceryl alginate.

[0117] However, the heterogeneous polyholoside preferably comprises at least one fucose motif, which may be present in an amount of 10-90% by weight, preferably 15-35% by weight, relative to the dry weight of polyholoside.

[0118] In particular, the polyholoside according to the invention may comprise fucose, galactose, and galacturonic acid units, and, for example, may comprise a linear chain of α-L-Fucose, α-D-Galactose, and galacturonic acid. In this case, it preferably has a viscosity of 800–1200 mPa·s (Brookfield viscosity LV31, 12 rpm, at 30°C) when dissolved in water at a concentration of approximately 1% by weight. Such a polyholoside is notably available as a 1% solution in water from the company SOLABIA under the trade name Fucogel 1000 PP® (INCI name: Biosaccharide gum-1) or as a 1.1% solution in water from the company SOLABIA under the trade name Fucocert (INCI name: Biosaccharide gum-1 (and) Sodium Levulinate (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Sodium Anisate).

[0119] The polyholosides according to the invention are preferably introduced into the composition in the form of an aqueous solution which may comprise 0.1 to 5% by weight of polyholoside.

[0120] Polyholosides may be present in the composition according to the invention in a quantity in dry matter ranging more particularly from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] 4) Glyceryl acrylate polymers

[0122] These glyceryl acrylate polymers are in particular selected from glyceryl acrylate and acrylic acid copolymers. Such copolymers are sold, in particular, under the names "LUBRAJEL® MS", "LUBRAJEL® CG", "LUBRAJEL® DV", "LUBRAJEL® NP", "LUBRAJEL® Oil", "LUBRAJEL® Oil BG", "LUBRAJEL® PF", "LUBRAJEL® TW", "LUBRAJEL® WA" by Guardian Laboratories or Ashland. "LUBRAJEL® MS" is preferred.

[0123] Glyceryl acrylate polymers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a quantity in dry matter ranging more particularly from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 2%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] 5) Polysaccharides, in particular polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, polysaccharides isolated from algae and polysaccharides from higher plants.

[0125] The polysaccharides according to the invention can be selected from: - seaweed extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, agars, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans include kappa-carrageenan, particularly the compounds marketed under the names Satiagum UTC30® and Satiagum UTC10® by Cargill; examples of alginates include sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by ISP, under the name SOBALG PH 460 by DANISCO, and under the name Flavikafine™ S by Nisshinbo Chemical; - gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum and their non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum, mannan gum, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, carob gum, microbial biopolysaccharide gums such as scleroglucan or xanthan gum; examples include guar gum marketed under the name Jaguar HP105® by Solvay; mannan and konjac gum® (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN; Kelco-Care™ diutane gum marketed by Lubrizol (INCI name: Sphingomonas Ferment Extract); SOLAGUM™ TARA 38553F gum marketed by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum); KELCOGEL® CG LA gellan gum marketed by the company CP KELCO (INCI name: Gellan Gum); - Modified or unmodified starches, such as those derived, for example, from cereals like wheat, corn or rice, vegetables like yellow peas, tubers like potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; examples include Remy DR I® rice starch (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) marketed by Remy; B® corn starch marketed by Roquette (INCI name: Zea May s (Corn) Starch); DRY-FLO® AF modified corn starch marketed by AkzoNobel (Nouryon) (INCI name: Corn Starch Modified); STÀRKINA™ NATURAL potato starch marketed by AGRANA Stârke (INCI name: Solanum Tuberosum Starch); potato starch modified by 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide marketed under the name Structure Solanace® by the company Nouryon;native tapioca starch powder marketed under the name Tapioca pure® by Nouryon; StarDesign™ Power starch marketed by Cargill (INCI name: Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate); dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® by National Starch; - pectic acids and pectins, such as the pectin marketed under the name GENU pHresh™ by the company CP Kelco (INCI name: Pectin); - Cellulose and its derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; examples include methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, and carboxymethylcellulose. Examples include cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Ashland; methyl hydroxyethylcellulose under the names Tylose® MH 300 and Tylose® MH 1000 from Sigma-Aldrich (INCI: Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose); and cellulose and cellulose gums under the name BETAFIB ETD from DKSH (INCI name: Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum). microcrystalline celluloses and cellulose gums under the names NATPURE® CELLGUM PLUS from the company SENSIENT or Avicel® PC 611 from the company DUPONT (INCI: Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum); - fructans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran, mannan, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylan, arabinoxylan, xyloglucan, glucomannan, arabinogalactan, mucopolysaccharides (glycosaminoglycans) such as chondroitin sulfate; - and their mixtures.

[0126] Polysaccharides may be present in the composition according to the invention in a quantity in dry matter of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] Preferably, polysaccharides selected from gums, such as xanthan gum, and carrageenan are used. Preferably, polysaccharides selected from xanthan gum and carrageenan are used.

[0128] Xanthan gums have, in particular, a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 g / mol and 50,000,000 g / mol and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25 °C using a Brookfield viscometer, type LVT at 60 revolutions per minute).

[0129] Xanthan gums are represented for example by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANE™ by the company Cargill Texturizing, under the name NOVAXAN™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

[0130] The composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of the various hydrophilic gelling agents mentioned above.

[0131] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent selected from: - carboxyvinyl polymers, - 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized, in particular selected from (a) poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) polymers, more particularly homopolymers, polyAMPS, crosslinked and neutralized to at least 90%, and (b) AMPS copolymers, more particularly selected from (i) AMPS and acrylamide copolymers, for example, crosslinked anionic acrylamide and AMPS copolymers, (ii) 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid derivative copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least one hydrophobic group, (iii) AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide copolymers, (iv) AMPS and (v) sodium acrylate copolymers, and (vi) AMPS and biopolymer copolymers; - heterogeneous polysaccharides, - glyceryl acrylate polymers, - polysaccharides, and - their mixtures.

[0132] According to another particular embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, such as the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, notably marketed by Clariant under the trade name "Hostacerin® AMPS" (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate).

[0133] Said hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid may be present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] According to yet another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, in particular a crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, and at least one additional gelling agent, in particular selected from polysaccharides, in particular as described above, more particularly xanthan gum or carrageenan.

[0135] It has been observed in particular that, in the presence of xanthan gum, the oil-in-water emulsion composition according to the invention can be refined. In other words, the microscopic appearance of an oil-in-water emulsion composition according to the invention comprising xanthan gum is advantageously finer, compared to an oil-in-water emulsion composition according to the invention not comprising xanthan gum.

[0136] Said additional gelling agent may be present in a content of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] Glyceryl Esters

[0138] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one glyceryl ester.

[0139] In one embodiment, said at least one glyceryl ester (or (poly)glyceryl ester) may be selected from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, glyceryl sesquioleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, or mixtures thereof. In one embodiment preferred realization, said at least one glyceryl ester is glyceryl stearate citrate.

[0140] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least glyceryl stearate citrate.

[0141] The amount of glyceryl ester, and preferably glyceryl stearate citrate, may vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] Linoleic acid

[0143] A composition according to the invention also comprises at least linoleic acid.

[0144] The amount of linoleic acid may vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least linoleic acid and also at least one other fatty acid.

[0146] The term “fatty acid,” as used herein, means a carboxylic acid having a long aliphatic carbon chain. In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from fatty acids having at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 carbon atoms. Said at least one fatty acid is preferably selected from fatty acids comprising up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. In a preferred embodiment, said at least one fatty acid may be selected from C4-C26 fatty acids, preferably from C6-C24 fatty acids, and more preferably from C8-C22 fatty acids. The fatty acid may be selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.The fatty acid can therefore be chosen from linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, and more preferably in C8-C22.

[0147] In a particular embodiment, one or more monounsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, may be used as an unsaturated fatty acid, linear or branched. The unsaturation of the unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, may result from at least one carbon-carbon double bond or one carbon-carbon triple bond.

[0148] Saturated fatty acids for use in a composition according to the invention may include, for example, caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Ci0), lauric acid (Ci2), myristic acid (CM), pentadecanoic acid (C15), palmitic acid (Ci6), heptadecanoic acid (Cp), stearic acid (C[8], isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecanoic acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22), and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0149] Unsaturated fatty acids for use in a composition according to the invention may include, for example, myristoleic acid (CM), palmitoleic acid (Ci6), oleic acid (Ci8), linoleic acid (Ci8), linolenic acid (Ci8), elaidic acid (Ci8), arachidonic acid (C2o), eicosenoic acid (C2o), erucic acid (C22), and nervonic acid (C24).

[0150] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from unsaturated fatty acids, and preferably C8-C22 unsaturated fatty acids, and more preferably C8-C22 unsaturated fatty acids with one, two, or three carbon-carbon double bonds. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of linolenic acid, oleic acid, and a mixture thereof. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from saturated fatty acids, and preferably C8-C22 saturated fatty acids.In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0151] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from saturated fatty acids, and preferably C8-C22 saturated fatty acids, and at least one fatty acid selected from unsaturated fatty acids, and preferably C8-C22 unsaturated fatty acids. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least linoleic acid and at least linolenic acid.In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to at least linoleic acid, at least a mixture consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, linolenic acid and oleic acid.

[0152] In a particular embodiment, a mixture of fatty acids for use in a composition according to the invention and comprising at least linoleic acid and linolenic acid is called "Vitamin F". In a particular embodiment By "Vitamin F" is meant a mixture of a plurality of fatty acids including at least linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and which may include other saturated or unsaturated fatty acids as described above, and preferably chosen from oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid.

[0153] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the mixture of fatty acids marketed by the company Stéarinerie DUBOIS under the trade name "DUB OMEGA 8" (INCI name: LINOLEIC ACID (and) OLEIC ACID (and)PALMITIC ACID (and) LINOLENIC ACID).

[0154] When the composition according to the present invention contains linolenic acid, the amount of linolenic acid may vary from 0.001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, better from 0.01 to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] Aqueous phase

[0156] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one physiologically acceptable aqueous phase. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0157] The composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The aqueous phase is the continuous phase.

[0158] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally one or more polyol(s). According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase contains at least one polyol.

[0159] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase is present in a content of between 65% and 95% by weight, preferably between 70% and 92% by weight, and more preferably between 74% and 82% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0160] Polyols

[0161] For the purposes of this invention, polyol means: - a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least two hydroxyl groups; or - a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, in which one or more carbon atoms are replaced by an oxygen atom and comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, such as polyethylene glycols (PEGs) having 4 to 8 ethylene glycol motifs.

[0162] Preferably, the polyol(s) have a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched.

[0163] Advantageously, the polyol(s) comprise a number of carbon atoms from 2 to 20, and preferably from 2 to 10, and comprise from 2 to 12, and better from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions.

[0164] The polyol(s) may be selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol.

[0165] Among these polyols, glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof are preferred.

[0166] According to one embodiment, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, preferably from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, in particular are selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol or glycerin, diglycerin, erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably glycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0167] According to a particular embodiment, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a quantity greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0168] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity of polyols can range for example from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 18% by weight, better from 5% to 16% by weight, better from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0169] Fatty phase

[0170] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase. Said oily phase may contain at least one cosmetic oil. It may further contain at least one other fatty substance.

[0171] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0172] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made visually or, if necessary, using a phase-contrast microscope, on 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri stirring to create a vortex within the mixture (for example, 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to rest, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0173] Examples of oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include: - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms like the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides like those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil; - synthetic esters and ethers, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid containing 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate (which is a mixture of C16 and C18 alkyl esters with isononanoic acid), isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate;and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate; - Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable, or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or involatile, and their derivatives; alkanes containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as C15-19 alkanes like those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L19; branched-chain hydrocarbon oils containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures, petrolatum, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, Parléam® marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by SYNTEAL, and REWOPAL PIB 1000, marketed by WITCO, and PARLEAM LITE, marketed by NOF Corporation, are examples of linear and branched hydrocarbons. Preferred synthetic origins include squalane, which is an oil derived from the hydrogenation of squalene; or - mixtures thereof.

[0174] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, preferably selected from alkanes comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms, such as in particular C15-19 alkanes.

[0175] The quantity of oil in the composition can range, for example, from 0.1% to 15%, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone. By "silicone" is understood in particular silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with linear or cyclic silicone chains, liquid or paste-like at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, or polymethylphenylsiloxanes.

[0177] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably being free of silicone oil(s).

[0178] According to one embodiment, the fatty phase is present in a content of between 5% and 35% by weight, in particular between 8% and 30%, and even more particularly between 10% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] Additives

[0180] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive, in particular chosen from the additives detailed below.

[0181] Of course, the additive(s) possibly present in a composition according to the invention are chosen so as not to alter the properties of the composition, in particular in terms of stability, but also sensory properties.

[0182] Preferably, the additives suitable for the present invention are natural or of natural origin.

[0183] Assets

[0184] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0185] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, humectants, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, antibacterial agents, vitamins and their derivatives, antioxidant compounds, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizing active ingredient.

[0187] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one moisturizing active ingredient.

[0188] Cosmetic composition

[0189] The composition used according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

[0190] It can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, or a milk.

[0191] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is intended for application to the skin. This may be the skin of the face and / or body, in particular the face and / or neck and / or hands.

[0192] The composition according to the invention may include all the constituents usually employed in the envisaged topical application and administration.

[0193] Preferably, such a composition is not intended to be rinsed off after application

[0194] Uses and processes

[0195] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic care or treatment method for keratinous material, in particular skin, comprising at least one application step on said keratinous material, of a composition as defined in the present invention.

[0196] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field, and in particular for the care, and / or protection, of the skin of the body or face.

[0197] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above in the cosmetic field and in particular to prevent and / or treat symptoms related to dryness problems on keratinous materials, and / or to repair and strengthen the skin barrier.

[0198] The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

[0199] The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0200] Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for using these compositions.

[0201] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin previously cleaned with a washing solution.

[0202] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." shall be understood to include bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0203] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0204] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are "expressed as % of raw material", more precisely as % by weight of raw material in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] In the examples, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise stated. Examples

[0206] MATERIALS AND METHODS

[0207] Stability measurement

[0208] The stability of the compositions was evaluated according to the following protocol:

[0209] The following initial checks are carried out on a composition to be tested at least 16 hours after manufacture: - organoleptic controls (appearance, color, smell); - a pH measurement (at 25°C): measurement taken using a pH meter; - a viscosity measurement (at 25°C): measurement taken using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM 100 PLUS from Lamy Rheology (equipped with a thermostatic bath), noting the values ​​at 30 seconds and 10 minutes; - a centrifugation carried out for 1 hour at 900g followed by a check for the absence of signs of destabilization (such as release, sedimentation, creaming...); and - a microscopic observation of a sample of the crushed composition between a slide and a coverslip in unpolarized light and in polarized light, with a magnification xlOO (x 100), the characterization of the observation being carried out in particular by the evaluation of the fineness of the emulsion, the mesh of the center, the regularity of the emulsion, the edges, the anisotropy or isotropy.

[0210] 2) The composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at different temperatures, including 4°C, ambient temperature (denoted TA), 45°C, and 55°C. The temperature can be regulated, for example, using an oven, particularly for a temperature equal to 45°C or 55°C, for example from the Bio concept brand by Firlabo, or from a refrigerator, especially for a temperature equal to 4°C.

[0211] Checks are carried out after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above. In particular, the checks carried out are as follows: - Macroscopic aspect: checking the visual appearance and texture, in particular the consistency; and verifying the absence of signs of instability, for example, clumping or softening, the appearance of grains, release, creaming, coalescence, film formation, visualization of mottling, exudate; - Colour: evaluation of the potential colour evolution of the samples compared to the 4°C sample, known as the "control" sample; - odor: evaluation of the potential evolution of odor of the samples compared to the 4°C sample, referred to as the "control" sample; - the microscopic aspect: evaluation of the potential evolution of the microscopic aspect in unpolarized light and polarized light (magnification xlOO); - pH, only for samples at 2 months at room temperature and at 2 months at 45°C; and - viscosity, only for samples at 2 months at room temperature and at 2 months at 45°C.

[0212] The closer the compositional tests after 1 month and / or 2 months of storage are to the tests carried out more than 16 hours after manufacture, the more stable the composition can be considered. In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without salting-out or phase separation, and with acceptable changes in color, odor, viscosity, pH, and microscopic appearance, then the composition is considered stable.

[0213] Protocol for preparing compositions

[0214] The composition Fl according to the invention and the comparative composition Cl of Table 1 below are prepared by the following protocol:

[0215] The ingredients of phase A are mixed under light stirring and heated to 65-70°C;

[0216] The ingredients of phase B (at approximately 20-30°C) are added to phase A and phase B is emulsified in phase A for 5 minutes; then it is diluted with water (at approximately 20-30°C) while continuing to emulsify for 5 minutes.

[0217] The assembly is cooled under moderate stirring;

[0218] Then phase C is added at a temperature <30°C, and the ingredients are mixed under strong stirring before the whole is allowed to cool under weak stirring.

[0219] Example 1

[0220] The compositions Fl according to the invention and Cl (not according to the invention) are obtained according to the preparation protocol described above. [Tables 1] Phase Ingredient (expressed in G of raw material) FI (according to Hnwntiw) Cl Comparative outside Invention A GLYCERIN 10.0 HH) ! A ALCOHOL, BÉHENYLO.'fC ................... .................. ANE 0.1 0J B rc WATER Ajusk'ms pR ............CITRIC ACID QS QSPpH V 0.09 QS QSP p H 53 0.09 C U'ÎDb 1 INQi 1 K»1 ï 'O» ACIDF. Ci HQCE RT> PALMITIC ACID (and) YIFARKXTll ACID AUDE 5 1NO1 I \]Qi 1 r PCR OMEGA 6 » from STEARINERIE DUBOIS)® ^Ingredients cœsOmani ph 1 asc fatty 1

[0221] Results:

[0222] When evaluating the stability and color of compositions Fl and Cl, a difference in color evolution between the two compositions is observed, more pronounced after 2 months at 45°C or even after 7 days at 55°C. In particular, after 2 months at 45°C, composition Fl, containing glyceryl stearate citrate, does not undergo any color change, compared to composition Cl, which lacks glyceryl stearate citrate. Composition Cl has, in fact, turned strongly pink and therefore cannot be considered stable over time.

[0223] Conclusion: a composition further comprising glyceryl stearate citrate exhibits limited or no color change after 2 months at 45 °C and corresponds to a stable emulsion, compared with a composition devoid of this compound.

[0224] Example 2 - Consumer tests

[0225] Composition Fl was tested on different consumer panels, such as women aged 25 to 40 and 41 to 75. The results obtained show that the composition according to the invention has the following advantages: - a satisfactory appearance, a fluid texture, easy to apply and spread; - After application, the formula leaves a feeling of freshness, hydration, nourishment, softness, and comfort; and - After application and throughout the day, a feeling of comfort and freshness remains; the skin stays hydrated and soft, breathes freely, and is not suffocated, oily, or sticky; sensations of tightness, dryness, flaking, and roughness are avoided.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, particularly cosmetic, especially for the care of keratinous materials, characterized in that it comprises: - at least one oil phase, - at least one emulsifier comprising at least one phospholipid, - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent corresponding to the cross-linked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, - at least one glyceryl ester selected from glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate lactate, sesquioleate glyceryl, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate lactate, or mixtures thereof, and preferably glyceryl stearate citrate;- at least linoleic acid; and said composition comprising less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the phospholipid is selected from: - natural phospholipids, in particular egg or soy lecithin, or sphingomyelin, - chemically or enzymatically modified phospholipids, in particular hydrogenated lecithin, and - synthetic phospholipids, in particular dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine, especially hydrogenated lecithin.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the phospholipid is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 2.5% by weight, more specifically between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, and at least one additional gelling agent selected from polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum or carrageenan, said additional gelling agent being more particularly present in a content of between 0.01% and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.05% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat phase is present in a content of between 5% and 35% by weight, preferably between 8% and 30% by weight and even more particularly between 10% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, free from silicone oil(s).

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims also comprising at least one fatty acid selected from linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C4-C26, preferably in C6-C24, and more preferably in C8-C22.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of linoleic acid varies from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of glyceryl ester varies from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 65% to 95% by weight of aqueous phase, preferably from 70% to 92% by weight, and more preferably from 72% to 82% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

12. A cosmetic, non-therapeutic process for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, comprising at least an application step on said keratinous materials, of a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.

13. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11 in the cosmetic, non-therapeutic field, and in particular for the care of the skin of the body or face.

14. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11 in the cosmetic, non-therapeutic field, and in particular to prevent and / or treat symptoms related to dryness problems on keratinous materials, and / or to repair and strengthen the skin barrier.