Aqueous composition comprising a fatty acid monoester, a neutralized anionic surfactant, a liquid polyester derived from a diol dimer and an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, a latex and a polyol

Abstract

An aqueous composition comprising a fatty acid monoester, a neutralized anionic surfactant, a liquid polyester derived from a diol dimer and an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, a latex, and a polyol. The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of the following formula (I): [Chem 1](I) wherein R1 and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R1 representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical, and (2) at least one anionic surfactant, and (3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and (4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from (a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, of which the alcohol is C16-C32 and (b) of at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and (5) water;and (6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and (7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

Description

Title of the invention: Aqueous composition comprising a fatty acid monoester, a neutralized anionic surfactant, a liquid polyester derived from a diol dimer and an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, a latex and a polyol Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and aims to propose compositions more particularly dedicated to makeup of eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0002] Generally speaking, compositions dedicated to the makeup of keratin fibers, for example eyelashes, aim to densify the thickness and visual perception of the eyelashes and ultimately the look. These mascaras are described as aqueous or cream mascaras, when they are formulated in aqueous base and anhydrous mascaras when they are formulated in the state of dispersion in an organic solvent medium.

[0003] A wide variety of cosmetic effects can be achieved by applying mascara to keratin fibers, particularly eyelashes, such as, for example, a volumizing, lengthening, thickening, and more particularly a loading makeup effect.

[0004] These effects are essentially adjusted through the quantity and nature of the particles and particularly those of the waxes present in the mascaras. Generally speaking, mascaras in fact have a significant quantity of wax(es) and in particular from 10 to 35% by weight of waxes, more generally from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to their total weight.

[0005] For obvious reasons, the improvement of mascara textures which determine the manifestation of one or more makeup effects is a constant concern of the cosmetic formulator.

[0006] Furthermore, it is expected that the specific effects attached to a particular formulation, for example charging and also providing excellent separation of the made-up eyelashes, are reproduced almost identically by all the manufacturing batches of the same formulation.

[0007] Satisfying these expectations and / or objectives therefore requires being able to precisely adjust the texture of a mascara and to reproduce it as faithfully as possible with batches not necessarily manufactured at the same time but identical in terms of ingredients and therefore having to provide makeup effects which are in theory also identical.

[0008] In addition, the consumer expects a mascara with lasting performance, that is to say a mascara that resists friction (absence of grains again called “flakes”). Prior art

[0009] However, as stated above, the mascaras currently available are, for the most part, formulated with a significant amount of waxes. However, as detailed in the document Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002 / 14356007.a28.pub2 most waxes do not consist of a single chemical compound but are rather complex mixtures. They can be mixtures of oligomers and / or polymers which, in many cases, also have varying molar masses, molar mass distributions and degrees of branching. Thus, a polar wax is classically formed from a mixture of alkanes, fatty alcohols and fatty esters whose fatty chain length varies according to the melting point.

[0010] It is therefore very difficult for manufacturers of these waxes to guarantee a strictly identical composition for all manufacturing batches. More specifically, there may be, between several manufacturing batches of the same wax, variability in the chemical nature of some of its constituent compounds. Similarly, the proportionality of some of its constituent compounds is also likely to vary between manufacturing batches.

[0011] For obvious reasons, these variabilities have a significant impact on the properties of the wax and therefore on those of the mascara incorporating this wax in significant quantity. Thus, two mascara formulations of identical composition and therefore produced from the same conventional wax and in the same quantity, may nevertheless diverge in terms of rheological properties and therefore texture and mechanical properties of the deposition of the product on the keratin fibers such as resistance to crumbling (presence of grains also called "flakes"), if they have been manufactured from two separate manufacturing batches of this wax.

[0012] Consequently, the use of conventional waxes, in particular in significant quantities, in mascara compositions, does not make it possible to guarantee to users the reproduction of the rheological properties and the mechanical properties of the deposit of the product on the keratin fibers, such as the resistance to crumbling, which are finely adjusted and totally identical on all the mascara specimens of the same composition.

[0013] In patent applications FR3080034, EP3781118, EP3897859, EP3897558, EP3897519, aqueous compositions have been proposed, in particular mascaras comprising at least one fatty acid monoester such as behenyl behenate, at least one fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms, at least one base capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid, at least one base capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid, and pigments, in particular iron oxides. However, these compositions are not fully satisfactory in terms of the stability of the evolution of the consistency over time, in particular over several days and according to temperature variations.

[0014] Patent FR3090334 discloses aqueous mascaras comprising behenyl behenate, a fatty acid, a neutralizing base, a semi-crystalline polymer, a fatty alcohol and a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0015] Water-based mascaras are known on the market - the commercial product Be Bold Colar Mascara (Mintel ID 5676593) containing behenyl behenate, neutralized stearic acid, waxes, black iron oxides; - Avon Super Drama Volume and Lengthening Waterproof Mascara commercial product (Mintel ID 20600879) containing behenyl behenate, neutralized stearic acid, waxes, black iron oxides; - the commercial product Stunning Extra Lush Mascara by Ying Te LI Cosmetics (Mintel ID 8372591) containing behenyl behenate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate neutralized by a base, waxes, black iron oxides, vinylpyr-rolidone / eico sene copolymer.

[0016] During its research, the applicant found that these compositions were not fully satisfactory in terms of the mechanical properties of the deposition of the product on keratin fibers, in particular resistance to crumbling.

[0017] Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to access mascara compositions whose mechanical properties of the deposition of the product on the keratin fibers such as the resistance to crumbling are improved, finely adjustable and reproducible.

[0018] Another aim of the present invention is to propose a mascara architecture developed from a predominant proportion by weight of single-component ingredients. The predominant use of single-component ingredients advantageously makes it possible to overcome the risk of variability in composition that may exist between several manufacturing batches of a multi-component ingredient and therefore its impact on the final properties of the mascara.

[0019] Another aim of the present invention is to propose a mascara architecture making it possible to significantly reduce or even eliminate the use of waxes but nevertheless remaining very satisfactory in terms of makeup effect.

[0020] The inventors, during their research, unexpectedly discovered that the objectives as defined above were achieved by using a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of the following formula (I): [Chem 1] Ri-O-Ra (I) in which R 1 and R 2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R 1 representing an acyl radical, and R 2 representing an alkyl radical, and (2) at least one anionic surfactant, and (3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and (4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is C16-C32, preferably C16-C22 and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and (5) water; and (6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and (7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

[0021] Unexpectedly, the inventors have in fact found that the formulation comprising at least one linear fatty acid monoester (1), at least one anionic surfactant (2) in a form partially or totally neutralized by a base (3), at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer (4), water (5), at least one film-forming polymer (6) in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase and at least one water-soluble liquid polyol (7) made it possible to produce, after application to keratin materials such as eyelashes, a deposit having good resistance to crumbling.

[0022] In addition, the consistency and mechanical properties of the deposition of the formulation on the keratin fibers can be finely adjusted and guaranteed in terms of reproducibility.

[0023] As will be seen from the following, these new compositions are advantageous in several respects.

[0024] First of all, the compounds (1) to (7) required according to the invention are as an individualized compound, single-component or having a well-defined number of components as opposed to the majority of conventional waxes which are often multi-component or even with an indefinite number of compounds like natural waxes and certain synthetic waxes.

[0025] These two specificities are particularly interesting because they make it possible to avoid a risk of variability with regard to their respective compositions.

[0026] As is clear from the examples below, the compositions in accordance with the invention and based on the use of compounds (1) as texturizing agent prove to be very satisfactory in terms of makeup effects.

[0027] Thus, compositions according to the invention can have a creamy texture which proves to be finely adjustable thanks to the implementation of the combination required according to the invention.

[0028] Obtaining these properties is conditioned by the use of compounds (1) to (7) and advantageously therefore does not require the additional presence of waxes, particularly in significant quantities.

[0029] Thus, the compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise less than 5% of waxes as defined below.

[0030] Waxes are understood to mean lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C.

[0031] For the purposes of the invention, the waxes concerned by this limitation in quantity mentioned above are distinct from those likely to be represented by the monoester component of fatty acid(s) (1) required according to the invention and additives of the fatty alcohol type.

[0032] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0033] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of the following formula (I): [Chem 1] Rs-O-Ib (I) in which Ri and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with Ri representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical, and (2) at least one anionic surfactant, and (3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and (4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is C16-C32, preferably C16-C22 and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and (5) water; and (6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and (7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

[0034] A second subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the eye contour, the eyelash contour, the eyebrow contour; keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and eyebrows, consisting of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above. Definitions

[0035] In the context of the present invention, the term keratin material is understood to mean in particular the skin, in particular the skin surrounding the eyelashes, the skin surrounding the eyebrows; keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and the eyebrows. This term keratin fibers, within the meaning of the present invention, also extends to synthetic false eyelashes.

[0036] By physiologically acceptable, we mean compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0037] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a process, in particular a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin surrounding the eyelashes, the skin surrounding the eyebrows, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising at least one step consisting of applying to said keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0038] By "particulate matter" is meant any compound in the form of insoluble and dispersible particles in the composition of the invention. Fatty acid monoester (1)

[0039] A composition according to the invention comprises at least one linear fatty acid monoester (1).

[0040] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least 5.0% by weight, preferably at least 6.0% by weight, better still at least 7.0% by weight of linear fatty acid monoester(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid monoester(s) (1) are present in the composition in a content varying from 6.0 to 35.0% by weight, preferably from 7.0 to 30.0% by weight, or even preferably from 8.0 to 28.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] The linear fatty acid monoester(s) (1) considered according to the invention correspond to the following formula (I): [Chem 1] Ri-OR? (I) in which Riet R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently, one of the other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with Ri representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical.

[0043] This or these fatty acid monoester(s) (1) is (are) used during the preparation of a composition according to the invention, in an individualized form or in the form of a mixture comprising exclusively linear fatty acid monoesters of formula (I).

[0044] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid monoester(s) (1) has a melting point above 50°C.

[0045] The melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).

[0046] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the acyl and alkyl radicals representing respectively R, and R2 are chosen in such a way that the compound (I) is solid at a temperature less than or equal to 30°C.

[0047] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, R 1 and R 2 are, respectively, acyl and alkyl radicals having a number of carbon atoms varying from 20 to 30, preferably from 20 to 24.

[0048] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, R 1 and R 2 are, respectively, acyl and alkyl radicals having the same number of carbon atoms.

[0049] In particular, the fatty acid monoester according to the invention is chosen from arachidyl arachidate and behenyl behenate.

[0050] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the linear fatty acid monoester is a behenyl behenate.

[0051] A behenyl behenate suitable for the composition according to the invention may in particular be KESTER WAX K-72® marketed by the company Koster Keunen, DUB BB® marketed by STEARINERIE DUBOIS, DERMOWAX BB® marketed by Alzo. Anionic surfactant (2)

[0052] As specified above, the fatty acid monoester(s) (1) used according to the invention are combined with at least one anionic surfactant (2) partially or totally neutralized by a base (3).

[0053] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “surfactant” means an amphiphilic chemical compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity in its structure. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilicity Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984).

[0054] According to a preferred form of the invention, the anionic surfactants in accordance with the invention have an HLB greater than or equal to 8. The HLB of the anionic surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method.

[0055] Anionic surfactant means any negatively charged amphiphilic molecule.

[0056] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant is present in a content ranging from 3.5 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 4.0 to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] The anionic surfactant(s) (2) in accordance with the invention is (are) preferably chosen from: i. C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphates; ii. alkyl sulfates, and in particular alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; iii. alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; iv. alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; v. acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acyl isethionates, N-acyltaurates, acyl lactylates; vi. fatty acids having from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms; vii. their mixtures.

[0058] According to a particular form of the invention, said anionic surfactant(s) (2) is (are) chosen from - C12-C20 mono-alkyl phosphates; - fatty acids having from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms; - their mixtures.

[0059] Fatty acids having from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms will be used more particularly. a) C12-C20 mono-alkyl phosphates

[0060] By mono-alkyl designation, it is meant that the phosphate element is associated with a single C12-C20 alkyl chain, unless otherwise specified. The mono-alkyl phosphate(s) (including phosphine oxide(s)) usable in the compositions according to the present application is / are chosen from C14-C20, preferably C16-C18, mono-alkyl phosphates and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Preferably, they are chosen from mono-cetyl phosphate, mono-stearyl phosphate and mono-cetearyl phosphate.

[0062] In particular, the anionic surfactant will be used in its form neutralized by potash (KOH), namely the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate, with the INCI name POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE, for example marketed under the names Amphisol K® (DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS), Amphisol A® (DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS), Arlatone MAP® (Uniqema), Crodafos MCA® (Croda).

[0063] b) Fatty acid having from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms

[0064] The fatty acid according to the invention comprises from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid comprises from 16 to less than 20 carbon atoms. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the number of carbon atoms varies from 16 to 18.

[0065] In particular, the fatty acid(s) according to the invention is (are) chosen from linear fatty acids, saturated fatty acids and their mixtures.

[0066] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid of the ionic surfactant is linear and saturated.

[0067] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid(s) is (are) chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid and their mixtures, and preferably comprises at least stearic acid with the INCI name STEARIC ACID.

[0068] Thus, according to another embodiment of the invention, the composition uses as fatty acid (2) a mixture of C16-C18 fatty acids, preferably a mixture of fatty acids having 16 carbon atoms, such as palmitic acid, and fatty acids having 18 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid.

[0069] A preferred stearic acid suitable for the invention is, for example, Stearic Acid 1850® marketed by the company Southern Acids or the product STEARINE TP 1200 PASTILLES® (DUB 50P®) by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS. Base (3)

[0070] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one base (3). This base may be organic or inorganic.

[0071] According to a first variant, the base (3) is at least one organic base.

[0072] Preferably, the base of organic origin is chosen from amino acids such as arginine; alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tri-isopropanolamine, aminomethyl propanol; primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamines such as 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol (also called tromethamine) and aminomethylpropanediol; and mixtures thereof.

[0073] According to a particular embodiment, the base is a primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine.

[0074] According to another particular embodiment, the base is an amino acid in par- especially arginine.

[0075] By "primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine" is meant in particular a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, it being understood that by primary is meant a primary amine function, i.e. -NH2, and the alkyl group being a linear or branched C1-C8 hydrocarbon chain, preferably a branched C4, such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2 methyl propyl. The primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine is preferably 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-2-propylamine (also called aminomethylpropanediol or AMPD).

[0076] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the base of organic origin is aminomethylpropanediol.

[0077] Such an aminomethylpropanediol suitable for the invention is, for example, AMPD Ultra PC® marketed by the company Angus (Dow Corning).

[0078] According to a second variant, the base is at least one inorganic base.

[0079] This inorganic base is chosen from alkali metal hydroxides and ammonium (NH4+).

[0080] Preferably, the inorganic base is chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0081] The amount of base is adjusted to obtain sufficient neutralization to confer effective ionicity to the associated fatty acid (2).

[0082] Preferably, the base (3) is present in an amount sufficient to neutralize some or all of the carboxylic functions of the fatty acid(s) (2) comprising from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms.

[0083] For example, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least 0.1% by weight, better still at least 0.15% by weight of base(s) (3), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the base (3) is present in a content ranging from 0.2 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.0% by weight of base(s), in particular sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aminomethylpropanediol, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0085] The anionic surfactant (2) and the base (3) making up the neutralized ionic surfactant according to the invention can be introduced into the composition in the form of a single commercial material, or one after the other in the form of two separate commercial materials.

[0086] Preferably, the anionic surfactant (2) and the base (3) will be introduced into the composition in the form of two separate commercial materials.

[0087] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain at least the anionic surfactant stearic acid with the INCI name STEARIC ACID neutralized by aminomethylpropanediol.

[0088] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain at least the anionic surfactant mono-cetyl phosphate in its form neutralized by potash (KOH), namely the potassium salt of mono-cetyl phosphate, with the INCI name POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE.

[0089] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one mixture of potassium salt of mono-cetyl phosphate, of INCI name POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE and stearic acid neutralized by T aminomethylpropanediol. Liquid polyester (4)

[0090] As indicated above, the composition comprises at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is C16-C32, preferably C16-C22 and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0091] Liquid polyester means a polyester that begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25°C).

[0092] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “dimer diol” is more particularly intended to denote saturated diols produced by hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined above.

[0093] It is noted that the dimer diol may also have other components, for example, a triol trimer, a monoalcohol and ether compounds, depending on the degree of purification of the dimer acid and / or the lower alcohol ester thereof used as the starting material. Products having a dimer diol content of more than 70% by weight can be used, but it is preferred to use a high purity dimer diol, such as a compound having a dimer diol content of more than 90% by weight.

[0094] Thus, a diol dimer can be produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid, in particular C16 to C32, such as those mentioned above, in particular C16 to C22, and more particularly C18.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the diol dimer derives from the hydrogenation of the acid functions of the dilinoleic diacid.

[0096] More particularly, it is the diol dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, followed by hydrogenation of the acid functions. The diol dimer may be in saturated form, i.e. not contain any carbon-carbon double bonds. According to another embodiment, the possible carbon-carbon double bonds of the diol dimer are all or partly hydrogenated, after esterification reaction of the diacid dimer with the diol dimer. Hydrogenated forms, in particular fully hydrogenated forms, are preferred.

[0097] In the context of the present invention, the term “unsaturated fatty acid” means fatty acids comprising 1 to 6 unsaturations (carbon-carbon double bond).

[0098] As representatives of these unsaturated fatty acids, mention may in particular be made of palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0099] The unsaturated fatty acid dimer is more particularly obtained by intermolecular polymerization reaction, in particular dimerization, of at least one unsaturated monocarboxylic acid. It derives in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular in C16 - C22, and more particularly in C18.

[0100] Advantageously, the liquid polyester (4) used in the present invention is obtained from a diacid dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, optionally followed by hydrogenation of the carbon-carbon bonds, total or partial, advantageously total.

[0101] It can also be obtained from a mixture which contains it. In such a case, it is preferred to use a mixture in which the content of this dimer diacid is greater than 70%, more particularly greater than 90% by weight, or even more preferably greater than 95% by weight; the remainder of the mixture may be trimers and / or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids.

[0102] Advantageously, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000 g / mol, preferably between 1000 and 2000 g / mol, and preferentially between 1200 and 1800 g / mol.

[0103] More particularly, the polyesters (4) have a viscosity of between 3000 and 400,000 mm2 / s (cSt) at 40°C.

[0104] As an illustration of the esters suitable for the invention, the following products (INCI name) may be mentioned in particular: DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE marketed in particular by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade names LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

[0105] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.5% by weight of liquid polyester(s) as defined previously, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester (4) at a content of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, more particularly between 2 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water (5)

[0107] A composition according to the invention comprises water (5).

[0108] Aqueous phase means a phase comprising water and possibly all solvents and ingredients soluble or miscible in water. (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol.

[0109] The aqueous phase may contain demineralized water, or even floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

[0110] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of 50 to 60% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Film-forming polymer (6) in aqueous suspension

[0111] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer (6) in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase of the composition.

[0112] In the present application, the term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, at a temperature of 20°C.

[0113] Said solid particles of film-forming polymer (6) can either be used as such and are suspended in the aqueous phase of the composition or in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion (latex or pseudo-latex).

[0114] Such a film-forming polymer (6) present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally bears the name (pseudo)latex, i.e. latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0115] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more types of particles, these particles being able to vary in their size, in their structure and / or in their chemical nature.

[0116] The film-forming polymer(s) (6) may be present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] These solid particles may be of anionic, cationic or neutral nature and may constitute a mixture of solid particles of different natures.

[0118] In the present invention, the term “aqueous” means a liquid medium based on water and / or hydrophilic solvents. This aqueous liquid medium may consist essentially of water. It may also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible organic solvent(s) (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as lower monoalcohols having 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0119] Among the film-forming polymers (6) which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of poly-condensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures. Generally speaking, these polymers can be random polymers, block copolymers of AB type, multi-block A-BA or even ABCD, or even grafted polymers. Free radical film-forming polymer

[0120] By radical polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers with unsaturation, in particular ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

[0121] The film-forming polymers (6) of radical type may in particular be homopolymers or copolymers, acrylic and / or vinyl.

[0122] The vinyl film-forming polymers (6) may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

[0123] As ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group or monomer carrying an acid group, it is possible to use α,β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. In particular, (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more particularly (meth)acrylic acid.

[0124] The acid monomer esters are advantageously chosen from (meth)acrylic acid esters (also called (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C1-C20 alkyl, more particularly C1-C8 alkyl, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

[0125] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate.

[0126] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

[0127] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

[0128] The esters of (meth)acrylic acid are in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0129] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

[0130] As amides of acid monomers, mention may be made, for example, of (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular C2-C12 alkyl. N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides include N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide and Nt-octyl acrylamide.

[0131] Vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

[0132] Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

[0133] As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene from alpha-methyl styrene.

[0134] The list of monomers given is not limiting and it is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art falling into the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified by a silicone chain).

[0135] Mention may also be made of polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers, inside and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called “hybrid polymers”. Polycondensate

[0136] As film-forming polymer (6) of polycondensate type, mention may be made of anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyvinylpyrrolidones polyurethanes, polyester polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea / polyurethanes, silicone polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] The film-forming polyurethane may be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane, or polyurea copolymer, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic, comprising alone or as a mixture at least one sequence chosen from: - a sequence of aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic polyester origin, and / or - a silicone sequence, branched or not, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or - a sequence comprising fluorinated groups.

[0138] The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention can also be obtained from polyesters, branched or not, or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), additionally comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a group sulfonic acid or sulfonate, or a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0139] Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may also be made of polyesters, polyester amides, fatty chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.

[0140] Polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

[0141] The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylgluratic acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarbocylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalene-dicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are particularly chosen.

[0142] The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. In particular, a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is used. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane may be used.

[0143] Polyester amides can be obtained in a manner analogous to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used. As amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

[0144] As a particular form of polycondensate film-forming polymer, a polyester-polyurethane in aqueous dispersion with the INCI name: Polyurethane-35 will be used, such as the commercial product BAYCUSAN C 1010 / 1® and or that with the INCI name: Polyurethane-48, such as the commercial product “BAYCUSAN C 1008 / 1®” sold by the company Covestro. Naturally occurring polymer

[0145] In the present invention, polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, such as shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, water-insoluble cellulose polymers such as nitrocellulose, modified cellulose esters including in particular car- boxyalkyl cellulose such as those described in patent application US2003 / 185774, and mixtures thereof.

[0146] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is chosen from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyester dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions, vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropyl-methacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer dispersions, polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymer dispersions, core-shell type particle dispersions and mixtures thereof.

[0147] Different types of aqueous dispersions, in particular commercial ones, suitable for the preparation of the composition in accordance with the present invention are detailed below.

[0148] 1 / Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer.

[0149] The acrylic polymer may be a styrene / acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer. As styrene monomer which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of styrene or alpha-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene.

[0150] The C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer is in particular a C1-C12 alkyl (meth)acrylate and more particularly a C1-C10 alkyl (meth)acrylate. The C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate and stearyl (meth)acrylate.

[0151] As acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, the following may be used according to the invention: - aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer sold under the names "Acronal DS-6250®" by the company BASF, "Neocryl A-45®", "Neocryl XK-90®", "Neocryl A-1070®", "Neocryl A-1090®", "Neocryl BT-62®", "Neocryl A-1079®" and "Neocryl A-523®" by the company DSM, Joncryl 95®, Joncryl 8211® by the company BASF, "Daitosol 5000 AD®", EPITEX 66 Polymer® in emulsion form by the company DOW CORNING (INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER) or "Daitosol 5000 SJ®" (INCI name: ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER) by DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 CG® (INCI name: Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer) by In-terpolymer.

[0152] 2 / according to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of particles polymer is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane and / or polyether-polyurethane particles, particularly anionic.

[0153] The anionic character of the polyester-polyurethanes and polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in their constituent units of groups with a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function.

[0154] The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally marketed in the form of aqueous dispersions.

[0155] The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from approximately 20% to approximately 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

[0156] Among the anionic polyester-polyurethane dispersions which can be used in aqueous varnishes according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of that marketed under the name “Avalure UR 405®” by the company NOVEON.

[0157] Among the dispersions of anionic polyether-polyurethane particles which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those marketed under the name "Avalure UR 450®" by the company NOVEON, and under the name Néorez R 970® by the company DSM, "BAYCUSAN C 1010®" (INCI name: POLY-URETHANE-35) as well as the commercial product sold under the name BAYCUSAN C 1010 / 1® and "BAYCUSAN C 1008 / 1®" (INCI name: POLYURETHANE-48 (and) METHYLPROPANEDIOL (and) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL (and) PHENYL-PROPANOL) sold by the company Covestro.

[0158] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a mixture of commercial dispersions consisting of anionic polyester-polyurethane particles as defined above and anionic polyether-polyurethane particles also defined above.

[0159] For example, it is possible to use a mixture consisting of the dispersion marketed under the name “Sancure 861®” or a mixture of that marketed under the name “Avalure UR 405®” and that marketed under the name “Avalure UR 450®”, these dispersions being marketed by the company NOVEON.

[0160] As other examples of film-forming polymers in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of: - polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid chosen from the acids as described in documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680 such as for example those marketed under the reference Dow Corning 2-8179® and Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant® by the company DOW CORNING; block copolymers of "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / poly- butadiene such as those marketed under 1 M 5960®).

[0161] As solid particles of film-forming polymer according to the invention, it is more preferential to use: - aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer sold under the names “Acronal DS-6250®” by BASF, “Neocryl A-45®”, “Neocryl XK-90®”, “Neocryl A-1070®”, “Neocryl A-1090®”, “Neocryl BT-62®”, “Neocryl A-1079®” and “Neocryl A-523®” by DSM, “Joncryl 95®”, “Joncryl 8211®” by BASF, “Daitosol 5000 AD®” (INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER) or “Daitosol 5000 SJ®”, “EPITEX 66 Polymer®” in emulsion form by DOW CORNING (INCI name: ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER) by DAITO KASEY KOGYO company, “Acudyne 5600P®” and “Acudyne 5800P®” from Dow Chemical company (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer); - the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names “Neorez R-981®” and “Neorez R-974®” by the company DSM, “Avalure UR-405®”, “Avalure UR-410®”, “Avalure UR-425®”, “Avalure UR-450®”, “Sancure 8750”, “Avalure UR 4450”, “Avalure UR 4500” by the company NOVEON, “Impranil 850” by the company BAYER, “BAYCUSAN C 1010®” (INCI name: PO-LYURETHANE-35) as the commercial product sold under the name BAYCUSAN C 1010 / 1® and “BAYCUSAN C 1008 / 1®” (INCI name: POLYURETHANE-48 (and) METHYLPROPANEDIOL (and) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL (and) PHENYL-PROPANOL) sold by the company Covestro. - sulfopolyesters such as those sold under the brand name “Eastman AQO” by the company Eastman Chemical Products, - vinyl dispersions such as "Mexomère PAM®", aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as "Vinybran®" from Nisshin Chemical or those marketed by UNION CARBIDE, aqueous dispersions of vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride such as “Styleze W ®”-from ISP, - aqueous dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those marketed under the references Hybridur® by the company AIR PRODUCTS or Duromer® from NATIONAL STARCH, - their mixtures.

[0162] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of acrylic film-forming polymer (6).

[0163] According to a particular form, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of acrylic film-forming polymer (6) with the INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER such as the commercial product sold under the name “EPITEX 66 Polymer®” in emulsion form by DOW CORNING. Water-soluble liquid polyol (7)

[0164] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble liquid polyol (7).

[0165] The term “water-soluble liquid polyol” means any organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl (OH) groups, liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure and miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0166] Among the water-soluble polyols (7), mention may be made of compounds consisting of a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic alkyl chain, comprising at least two OH functions. The alkyl chain preferably comprises from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular from 3 to 16, more particularly from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0167] Preferably, the water-soluble liquid polyol (7) may be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol (glycerin); polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol; polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] According to a preferred form of the invention, the water-soluble liquid polyol (3) is 1,3-butylene glycol with the INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL.

[0169] Preferably, the water-soluble liquid polyol(s) (7) is (are) present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% and more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other components

[0170] In addition to the aforementioned compounds, a composition according to the invention may of course comprise additional ingredients. Charges (8)

[0171] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature, making it possible, in particular, to give them additional properties of mattness, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0172] By filler is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to give body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to the makeup.

[0173] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber forms or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0174] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and, in particular, they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0175] Examples of mineral fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

[0176] Examples of organic fillers include polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), Hexamethylene Diisocyanate / Trimethylol Hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, PolyporeO L 200 (Chemdal Corporation),crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in patent US5538793. It may also be cellulose powder such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads range. b) Fatty alcohol (9)

[0177] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention further comprise at least one fatty alcohol (9). A composition may therefore comprise a single fatty alcohol or several distinct fatty alcohols (9).

[0178] If several distinct fatty alcohols (9) are present, these can be added separately during the preparation of the composition and their mixture can then be formed in situ. They can also be implemented in the form of a mixture already commercially available and in which the weight proportion and the degree of purity of each of the fatty alcohols are controlled. In other words, the composition of these mixtures is faithfully reproducible as opposed to mixtures of fatty alcohols generated via synthesis from raw materials derived from complex mixtures.

[0179] The fatty alcohol(s) (9) is (are) in particular chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols, C14-C30, preferably C14-C24, and even better C14-C20.

[0180] The fatty alcohol(s) (9) is (are) in particular chosen from linear and saturated C14-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably linear and saturated C14-C24 fatty alcohols, better still linear and saturated C14-C20 fatty alcohols.

[0181] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol (9) is in the form of a mixture of several different fatty alcohols, preferably a mixture of several linear and saturated fatty alcohols in C14-C30, better in C14-C24, even better in C14-C20.

[0182] Preferably, the fatty alcohol (9) according to the invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol (C16), stearic alcohol (C18) and their mixtures (also called cetearyl alcohol). Preferably, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearic alcohol. Such a mixture is notably marketed under the name Lannette O OR / MB® by the company BASF.

[0183] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol (9) is solid at room temperature.

[0184] The fatty alcohol (9) is present in the compositions of the invention in amounts ranging from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2.0 to 15.0% by weight, and even more particularly from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. c) Semi-crystalline polymer (10)

[0185] According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer (10).

[0186] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 2.0% by weight, more preferably from 3.0 to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.0 to 15.0% by weight, better still from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight of semi-crystalline polymer(s) (10), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0187] For the purposes of the invention, polymers are understood to mean compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units.

[0188] For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" means polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting temperature (solid-liquid transition). The crystallizable part is preferably a side chain (or pendant chain) to the backbone.

[0189] Apart from the crystallizable chains or sequences, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous.

[0190] For the purposes of the invention, the term crystallizable chain or sequence means a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below the melting temperature. A chain for the purposes of the invention is a group of atoms, pendant or lateral to the polymer skeleton.

[0191] When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

[0192] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer (10) has an organic structure.

[0193] By organic compound or with organic structure, we mean compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and possibly heteroatoms such as S, O, N, P alone or in combination.

[0194] The semi-crystalline polymer(s) (10) according to the invention are solids at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), the melting temperature of which is greater than or equal to 30°C.

[0195] The melting point values ​​correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METTLER, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).

[0196] According to a particular embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) (5) used in the composition of the invention have a melting temperature (or melting point) pF of less than 95°C, preferably less than 85°C. The semi-crystalline polymer(s) may thus have a melting temperature pF ranging from 30 to 95°C, and preferably from 40 to 85°C. This melting temperature is preferably a first-order state change temperature.

[0197] According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers (10) are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, in particular at least 1.0% by weight, at a temperature above their melting temperature. Preferably, the polymeric skeleton of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting temperature.

[0198] Preferably, the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers (5) represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%.

[0199] When the semi-crystalline polymers (10) of the invention have crystallizable sequences, they can be copolymers, sequenced or multi-sequenced. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomer with reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers with crystallizable side chains, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form.

[0200] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers (10) of the invention are of synthetic origin.

[0201] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer (10) is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying crystallizable hydrophobic side chain(s).

[0202] The semi-crystalline polymers (10) which can be used in the invention can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers, in particular those carrying at least one crystallizable side chain, such as those described in document US-A-5,156,911.

[0203] In a preferred embodiment, the crystallizable side chain(s) are hydrophobic.

[0204] These homo- or copolymers can result from: - of the polymerization, in particular radical, of one or more monomers with reactive double bond(s) or ethylenic with respect to a polymerization, namely with vinyl, (meth)acrylic or allylic group, - the polycondensation of one or more monomers carrying coreactive groups (carboxylic or sulfonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), such as polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyureas.

[0205] Generally speaking, the crystallizable units (chains or sequences) of the semi-crystalline polymers (10) according to the invention come from monomer(s) with crystallizable sequence(s) or chain(s), used for the manufacture of the semi-crystalline polymers. These polymers are preferably chosen in particular from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable chain(s) which can be represented by the following formula: [Chem 2] ---------- $ C with M representing an atom of the polymer skeleton, C representing a crystallizable group, and S representing a spacer. The crystallizable “-SC” chains being aliphatic or aromatic hydrocarbon chains, comprising saturated or unsaturated alkyl hydrocarbon chains, for example C10-C40, preferably C10-C30. C represents in particular a linear or branched (CH2)n group or cyclic, with n being an integer ranging from 10 to 40. Preferably C is a linear group. Preferably, “S” and “C” are different.

[0206] When the crystallizable chains are aliphatic hydrocarbon chains, they comprise alkyl hydrocarbon chains with at least 10 carbon atoms and at most 40 carbon atoms and better still at most 30 carbon atoms. These are in particular aliphatic chains or alkyl chains having at least 10 carbon atoms and preferably, they are C10-C40 alkyl chains, preferably C10-C30.

[0207] Preferably, the crystallizable chains are aliphatic hydrocarbon chains, C10-C30.

[0208] Examples of semi-crystalline homopolymers or copolymers with crystallizable chain(s) suitable for the invention include those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates with a C10-C30 alkyl group, N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides with a C10-C30 alkyl group, vinyl esters with alkyl chains with a C10-C30 alkyl group, vinyl ethers with alkyl chains with a C10-C30 alkyl group, C10-C30 alpha-olefins such as, for example, octadecene, para-alkyl styrenes with an alkyl group containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0209] When the polymers result from polycondensation, the crystallizable hydrocarbon chains as defined above are carried by a monomer which may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine, a diisocyanate.

[0210] When the polymers which are the subject of the invention are copolymers, they additionally contain from 0 to 50% of Y groups which is a polar monomer, a non-polar monomer or a mixture of the two.

[0211] When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer carrying polyoxyalkylenated groups (in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated), a hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth)acrylamide, an N-alkyl(meth)acrylamide, an NN-dialkyl(meth)acrylamide such as for example NN-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinyl-pyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinyl caprolactam, a monomer carrying at least one carboxylic acid group such as (meth)acrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids or carrying a carboxylic acid anhydride group such as maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] When Y is a non-polar monomer it may be an ester of the linear, branched or cyclic alkyl (meth)acrylate type, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an alpha-olefin, styrene or styrene substituted by a C1 to C10 alkyl group, such as α-methylstyrene, a macromonomer of the vinylically unsaturated polyorganosiloxane type.

[0213] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable side chain(s) are homopolymers of alkyl(meth)acrylate or alkyl(meth)acrylamide with an alkyl group as defined above, and in particular C10-C30, copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of a nature different from (meth)acrylic acid such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate and mixtures thereof.

[0214] It is also possible to use semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and acrylic acid or N-vinylpyrrolidone, as described in documents US-A-5,519,063.

[0215] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) with crystallizable side chain(s) have a weight-average molecular mass Mp ranging from 5000 g / mol to 1000000 g / mol, preferably from 10000 g / mol to 800000 g / mol, preferentially from 15000 g / mol to 500000 g / mol, more preferably from 80000 g / mol to 200000 g / mol.

[0216] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer (10) may be chosen from homo- and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer with crystallizable side chain(s) chosen from saturated C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylates, which may be represented by the following formula: [Chem 3] R3 wherein R3 is H or CH3, R4 represents a C10 to C30 alkyl group, and X represents O.

[0217] According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer (10) is derived from the polymerization of monomers with crystallizable side chain(s) chosen from saturated C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0218] The semi-crystalline polymers (10) with crystallizable side chains may be chosen from copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, in particular such as those described in patent US-A-5,156,911.

[0219] The semi-crystalline polymers (10) may be in particular those described in examples 3, 4, 5, 7, 9 of patent US-A-5,156,911 and more particularly those obtained by the copolymerization: - acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and isodecylacrylate in a ratio of 1 / 16 / 3, - acrylic acid and pentadecylacrylate in a ratio of 1 / 19, - acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate, ethylacrylate in a ratio of 2.5 / 76.5 / 20, - acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and methylacrylate in a ratio of 5 / 85 / 10, - acrylic acid, polyoctadecylmethacrylate in a ratio of 2.5 / 97.5.

[0220] As a particular example of a semi-crystalline polymer (10) that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer® products from the company Landec described in the Intelimer® Polymers brochure, Landec IP22®. These polymers are in solid form at room temperature (25°C). They carry crystallizable side chains. These are (C10-C30) alkyl polyacrylates, which are particularly suitable as semi-crystalline polymers (10) that can be included in a composition in accordance with the present invention.

[0221] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) (10) according to the invention is (are) derived from a monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylates and more particularly from poly(stearyl acrylate), poly(behenyl acrylate) and mixtures thereof.

[0222] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers (10) suitable for the invention are those with the INCI name: POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE, in particular stearyl polyacrylate, in particular that sold under the name TEGO SP 13-1 3® from the company EVONIK CORPORATION, which is a stearyl polyacrylate whose melting temperature is equal to 49°±5°C, or behenyl polyacrylate, sold under the name TEGO SP 13-6®, from the company EVONIK CORPORATION, which is a behenyl polyacrylate whose melting temperature is equal to 66°±5°C.

[0223] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer (10) is at least one poly(behenyl acrylate).

[0224] Examples of homopolymers or copolymers suitable as semi-crystalline polymers (10) for the invention preferably comprise from 50 to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying a crystallizable hydrophobic side chain. d) Liquid fatty phase

[0225] According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may also comprise a liquid fatty phase (11).

[0226] Such a liquid fatty phase is an organic phase that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) and is non-aqueous and immiscible with water.

[0227] The liquid fatty phase (11) may contain a non-volatile oil chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0228] Hydrocarbon oil means an oil containing mainly atoms of hydrogen and carbon and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.

[0229] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0230] A composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5.0% by weight, more preferably less than 2.0% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of volatile oils.

[0231] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa. e) Hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s)

[0232] According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer (12).

[0233] For the purposes of the present invention, the term hydrophilic polymer means a water-soluble polymer.

[0234] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble polymer" means a polymer which, when introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1%, results in a macroscopically homogeneous solution whose light transmittance, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, is at least 10%.

[0235] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and better still a deposit whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example when said deposit is produced by casting onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

[0236] The hydrophilic film-forming polymer present in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from: - proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat and soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers; - cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized cellulose derivatives; - acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; - polyesters, in particular anionic polyester and / or polyesteramide polymers, in particular water-dispersible, comprising monomers carrying a function: -SO3M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4+ or a metal ion, such as for example a Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+ ion. Mention may in particular be made of the polymers described in documents US-3,734,874; US-4,233,196; US-4,304,901. Advantageously, film-forming polyester polymers based on at least one dicarboxylic acid, at least one diol and at least one bifunctional aromatic monomer also carrying a -SO3M group as described above are chosen; - fatty chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins; - polyurethane polymers, in particular anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea / polyurethanes, - polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: . gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; . alginates and carrageenans; . glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; . shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals; . deoxyribonucleic acid; . muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate; and mixtures thereof.

[0237] A particularly advantageous hydrophilic film-forming polymer (12) within the meaning of the invention is a hydroxyalkylcellulose, and more particularly a hydroxyethylcellulose such as the commercial product CELLOSIZE HEC QP-4400H EUROPE PCG® sold by the company DOW.

[0238] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.1% to 15.0% in weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, better still from 1.0% to 8.0% by weight of hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) (12) relative to the total weight of the composition. f) Non-ionic surfactants (13) with HLB > 8.

[0239] According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant (13) with an HLB greater than 8.0.

[0240] The term “non-ionic surfactant” means a surfactant which does not contain an ionically charged group in its chemical structure.

[0241] The non-ionic surfactant(s) preferably used in the composition according to the invention is (are) chosen from: - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units; - oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, which may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, preferably from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-20") such as BRU 78® marketed by the company UNIQEMA, ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7") such as that marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS; - fatty acid esters, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and polyethylene glycol (or PEG) (which may comprise, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyethylene units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate marketed under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company UNIQEMA; - fatty acid esters, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units), preferably oxyethylenated, such as polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate with 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; polyoxyethylene glyceryl stearate with 30 oxyethylene units such as the product TAGAT S® sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, polyoxyethylene glyceryl oleate with 30 oxyethylene units such as the product TAGAT O® sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, polyoxyethylene glyceryl cocoate with 30 oxyethylene units such as the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by the company SHEREX, polyoxyethylene glyceryl isostearate with 30 oxyethylene units such as the product TAGAT L® sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT and polyoxyethylene glyceryl laurate with 30 oxyethylene units such as the product TAGAT 5 I® from the company 。 GOLDSCHMIDT; - fatty acid esters, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and polyglycerol such as Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate like the commercial product DERMOFEEL G 10 L MB® sold by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK); - fatty acid esters, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain, for example, from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units), preferably oxyethylenated, such as Polysorbate-60 sold under the name Tween 60® by the company UNIQEMA; - copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also called EO / OP polycondensates, - and mixtures thereof. EO / OP polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure: H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH, formula in which a ranges from 2 to 120, and b ranges from 1 to 100. The EO / OP polycondensates preferably have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 1,000 to 15,000, and better still ranging from 2,000 to 13,000. Advantageously, said EO / OP polycondensates have a cloud temperature, at 10 g / l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20°C, preferably greater than or equal to 60°C. The cloud temperature is measured according to the ISO 1065 standard.As OE / OP polycondensates which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the names SYNPERONIC such as SYNPERONIC PE / L44® and SYNPERONIC PE / F127® by the company ICI; . - their mixtures.

[0242] According to a preferred form, the non-ionic surfactant (13) is the esters of C12-C22 fatty acid and polyglycerol and more particularly Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate.

[0243] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the non-ionic surfactant(s) (13) is (are) present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. g) Waxes (14)

[0244] According to a particular form, a composition according to the invention may further comprise a wax (14).

[0245] However, with regard to the objectives of the present invention, the compositions according to the invention preferably comprise a reduced quantity of wax and in particular less than 5% by weight, or even less than 3% by weight of waxes, relative to their weight. total.

[0246] As specified in the preamble, within the meaning of the invention, waxes are understood to mean lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C.

[0247] It is recalled that within the meaning of the invention, the waxes (14) concerned by the aforementioned limitation in quantity are distinct from those likely to be represented by the linear fatty acid monoester component (1) according to the invention and the additional fatty alcohol components (9) as defined below.

[0248] Waxes formed from complex mixtures and described in particular in the document Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA are more particularly affected by this limitation.

[0249] Such waxes can be natural but also synthetic.

[0250] By natural wax is meant any wax pre-existing in nature or capable of being transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds existing in nature.

[0251] Among the natural waxes, we can notably cite the so-called fossil waxes including those of petroleum origin such as ozocerite, pyropissite, macrocrystalline waxes also called paraffins - including crude waxes or slack wax, slack wax raffinates, deoiled slack wax, soft waxes, semi-refined waxes, filtered waxes, refined waxes - and microcrystalline waxes called microwaxes including slack wax from "bright stock". Fossil waxes still contain lignite also called montan wax, or peat wax.

[0252] As natural waxes other than fossil waxes, we can cite animal and vegetable waxes.

[0253] Examples of vegetable waxes include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugarcane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax campestris wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, wax extracted from Douglas fir, sisal wax, flax wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice wax, palm tree wax, Japanese wax, mixtures thereof and derivatives thereof.

[0254] Examples of animal waxes include beeswax, Ghedda wax, shellac, Chinese wax, lanolin also known as wool wax, their mixtures and their derivatives.

[0255] These waxes (13) are generally multi-component. For example, natural beeswax is composed of approximately 70% esters, the majority of which are monoesters (of fatty acid and fatty alcohol), but also hydroxy-esters, di- and triesters and sterol esters, as well as long-chain linear hydrocarbons, free acids and free alcohols. For obvious reasons, the weight proportion of their ingredients and their degree of purity are difficult to guarantee from one manufacturing batch to another.

[0256] By synthetic wax is meant waxes whose synthesis requires one or more chemical reactions carried out by man.

[0257] Among synthetic waxes, a distinction can be made between semi-synthetic waxes and fully synthetic waxes. Synthetic waxes can be waxes obtained by a Fischer-Tropsch process, consisting for example of paraffins with a number of carbon atoms ranging from 20 to 50 or polyolefin waxes, for example homo- or copolymers of ethylene, propene or butene, or even longer chain α-olefins. The latter can be obtained by thermomechanical degradation of plastic polyethylene, by the Ziegler process, by high-pressure processes, or even via processes catalyzed by metallocene species. These waxes can be crystallizable, partially crystallizable or amorphous.The above-mentioned synthetic waxes are generally apolar and can be chemically treated to obtain polar waxes, for example by one or more of the following reactions: oxidation in air, grafting, esterification, neutralization by metallic soaps, amidation, direct copolymerizations or addition reactions.

[0258] Here again, their composition can consist of a mixture of ingredients because the fatty chain lengths are not well defined, thus forming a mixture of compounds of different fatty chain lengths and for which it is difficult for manufacturers to guarantee perfect reproducibility from one manufacturing batch to another.

[0259] Consequently, the compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight of wax(es) (14), in particular natural or synthetic multi-component wax(es) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0260] For the purposes of the invention, a multi-component wax designates a wax consisting of a mixture of several ingredients, either as it exists naturally like natural waxes, or as it is formed during the industrial synthesis process of these materials.

[0261] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of these waxes (14), in particular multi-component natural or synthetic wax.

[0262] As specified above, the preferred texturizing compounds according to the invention are, by contrast and advantageously, single-component, synthetic compounds, and therefore available in a form purified to more than 99%, like the compound (1) required according to the invention. h) Cosmetic active ingredients (15)

[0263] As cosmetic active ingredients which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, we can cite in particular antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, cosmetic active ingredients such as for example emollients, vitamins and filters, in particular sunscreens, and their mixtures.

[0264] These additives (15) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0%, of the total weight of the composition.

[0265] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. (i) Coloring matter (16)

[0266] A composition according to the invention, and in particular those dedicated to makeup, generally comprises at least one coloring material (16) such as powdery materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes.

[0267] The powdery coloring materials (16) can be chosen from pigments and pearlescent agents.

[0268] The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

[0269] The nacres can be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0270] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring matter" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0271] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, D&C Red 6, D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D&C Red 30, D&C Red 33, D&C Red 40, D&C Orange 4, D&C Yellow 5, D&C Yellow 6, D&C Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, D&C Green 5, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyline, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

[0272] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a coloring material (16) powdery, preferably of the pigment type, in particular metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxides, iron oxides and their mixtures; and more preferably iron oxides, and more particularly black iron oxides (CI 77499).

[0273] Preferably, said coloring matter (16) is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, more particularly from 4.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Physical characteristics a) Dry extract

[0274] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a dry extract content of at least 25.0% by weight, and preferably at least 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even from 30.0 to 60.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0275] For the purposes of the present invention, “dry extract content” means the content of non-volatile matter.

[0276] The quantity of dry extract (abbreviated ES) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen desiccator “HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73®” from Mettler TOLEDO. The measurement is based on the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual matter once the water and volatile matter have evaporated.

[0277] This technique is fully described in the device documentation provided by Mettler TOLEDO®.

[0278] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0279] Approximately 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, are spread on a metal dish which is introduced into the halogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105°C until a constant weight is obtained. The Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance. The experimental error related to the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%. The Dry Extract content is calculated as follows: [Math 1] Dry Extract Content (expressed in % by weight) = 100 x \ rrj Wet Mass Consistency

[0280] Preferably, a composition according to the invention has at 25°C a consistency characterized by a hardness > 20g, more preferably, a hardness ranging from 20 to 200 g, even more preferably 30 to 150 g.

[0281] The consistency of mascaras is measured according to the following protocol:

[0282] The measuring device is a TA-XT-Plus® sold by the company STAPLES MICRO SYSTEM, equipped with a 5 kilogram force measuring cell and a 12.7 mm (1 / 2 inch) diameter cylindrical Delrin mobile. The mascara is thermostatically controlled at 20°C. Then, it is placed in excess in a container with a diameter of 60 mm and a depth of 22 mm using a metal spatula. The product is spread to avoid any air pockets but without grinding it so as not to break it up. The container is then leveled with a spatula so as to have the most even surface possible. The container is then covered with a watch glass so as to limit the evaporation of solvents present in the formula for about ten minutes. The options chosen for this measuring method are as follows: Test mode: Compression measurement Trigger force: 2.0 g Pre-speed: 0.5 mm / sec Test speed: 0.5 mm / sec Temperature: 20 °C + / - 1 °C Penetration distance: 5 mm

[0283] Three successive measurements are taken at points separated by at least 12 mm, at least 10 mm from the edge of the container. The container is held during the measurement. The value retained is the average of the maxima obtained at each measurement.

[0284] Such a consistency is particularly advantageous since it is best suited to the mascara application device.

[0285] The composition can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field.

[0286] The composition used according to the invention may be a makeup composition, a makeup base, in particular keratin fibers, or base coat, a composition to be applied over makeup, also called a top coat, or even a composition for treating keratin fibers.

[0287] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a product for the eyelashes such as a mascara, a product for the eyebrows or a product for the eye contour such as an eyeliner, and more particularly a mascara.

[0288] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0289] Packaging and application assembly or kit

[0290] The present invention also relates to a set or kit for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers. including: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0291] Said applicator may be integral with a gripping member forming a cover for said packaging device. In other words, said applicator may be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and a position clear of a dispensing opening of the packaging device for said composition.

[0292] A keratin fiber coating assembly suitable for the invention may comprise an applicator configured to apply said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, and where appropriate a packaging device suitable for receiving said composition. Applicator

[0293] The applicator comprises means for smoothing and / or separating the kera fibers tinic, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, particularly in the form of teeth, hairs, spikes or other reliefs.

[0294] The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, and may include, for example, a brush or a comb.

[0295] The applicator can still be used for finishing the makeup, on an area eyelashes or eyebrows made up or loaded with composition.

[0296] The brush may have a twisted core and bristles caught between the turns of the core, or be made in another way.

[0297] The comb is for example made from a single piece by molding plastic material.

[0298] In some embodiments, the application element is mounted at the end of a rod, which may be flexible, which may contribute to improving comfort during application. Packaging device

[0299] The packaging device comprises a container intended to house the composition for coating the keratin fibers. This composition can then be taken from the container by immersing the applicator therein.

[0300] This applicator may be integral with a closure element of the container. This closure element may form a gripping member for the applicator. This gripping member may form a cover to be removably mounted on said container by any suitable means such as screwing, snap-fastening, fitting or other. Such a container may therefore reversibly house said applicator.

[0301] This container may optionally be equipped with a wringer suitable for removing excess product taken up by the applicator.

[0302] A method of applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or eyebrows may also comprise the following steps: - form a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or eyebrows, - leave the deposit on the eyelashes or eyebrows, as the deposit may dry.

[0303] It should be noted that according to another embodiment the applicator can form a product container. In such a case a container can for example be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel can internally connect this gripping member to the raised application elements.

[0304] Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly may be presented in the form of a kit, the applicator and the packaging device being able to be housed separately in the same packaging article.

[0305] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0306] In the description and the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are percentages by weight. The percentages are therefore expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The ingredients are mixed, in the order and under the conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

[0307] The invention will now be described by means of examples which are presented for illustrative purposes only and should not be interpreted as limiting examples of the invention.

[0308] Examples of mascara: example 1 according to the invention and examples 1a, 1b, 1c and 1d (outside the invention)

[0309] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name) Exl according to invention with polyester DIMER DILINOL EYL DIMER DILINOL EATE Ex la outside invention without liquid polyester (4) Ex 1b outside invention without hydrosoluble polyol (7) Ex le outside invention with polyester DILINOLE IC ACID / BUTANE DIOL COPOLYM ER Ex Id outside invention with polyester BIS-DIGLYCERYL L POLYACY-LADIPATE-2 BEHENYL BEHENATE (C44) (KESTERWAX K-72®) fatty acid monoester (1) 8.3 8.3 8.3 8.3 8.3 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (LANETTE 0 OR®) fatty alcohol (9) 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 STEARIC ACID (STEARINE TP 1200 PASTILLES®-DUB 50P®) surfactant anionic(2) 7.7 7.7 7.7 7.7 7.7 AMINOMETHYL PROPANEDIOL (AMPD Ultra PC® from Angus - Dow Corning) base (3) 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 POLY C10-30 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 ALKYL ACRYLATE (TEGO SP 13-6®) semi-crystalline polymer (10) ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (EPITEX 66 POLYMER®-DOW) film-forming polymer in aqueous suspension (6) 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 IRON OXIDES / CI 77499 (SUNPURO BLACK IRON OXIDE C33-7001® from Sun colorant (16) 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE (CELLOSIZE HEC QP-4400H EUROPE PCG® -DOW) hydrophilic film-forming polymer (12) 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 DIMER DL LINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE (LUSPLAN DD-DA7® - NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL) liquid polyester (4) 4.0 4.0 DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL - - - 4.0 COPOLYMER (VISCOPLAST 14436H® -Biosynthesis) BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPA TE-2 (SOFTISAN 649® -CREMER OLEO)° 4.0 KAOLIN (IMERCARE 04K® -IMERYS) filler (8) 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 POLYGLYCERYL-1 0 LAURATE (DERMOFEEL G 10 L MB® -DR STRAETMANS) non-ionic surfactant (13) 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 BUTYLENE GLYCOL water-soluble polyol (7) 3.0 3.0 - 3.0 3.0 PHENOXYETHAN OL 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 CAPRYL GLYCOL 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 WATER (5) qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Protocol for preparing examples

[0310] The compositions were prepared in a MAXILAB OLSA® double-jacketed tank as follows (on 3 kg). At room temperature (25°C), all the ingredients except the Acrylates Copolymer were introduced into the tank. The mixture was heated to around 90°C with stirring. Emulsification was carried out for 15 minutes with turbine / blade / scraper stirring (speed 3000 / 30 / 42 rpm). The juice was gradually cooled up to 60°C with paddle / scraper stirring (speed = 30 / 42 rpm) at a rate of 2°C / min. Then, the acrylate copolymer was added and cooled to 35°C with paddle / scraper stirring (speed = 30 / 42 rpm) at a rate of 2°C / min, gradually deaerating the formula using a vacuum before draining at 35°C.

[0311] After packaging the formulas in a mascara applicator, they were evaluated by a friction resistance test carried out according to the protocol described below.

[0312] The formulas were deposited on false eyelashes (hair sample) by 3 times ten strokes spaced by 2 minutes of drying. The test pieces were then left to dry for 1 hour on a plate thermostatically controlled at 33°C. 30 strokes were applied to the false eyelashes using the Lancôme Kéracil® mascara brush over a white sheet. The quantity of residue (Flakes) deposited on the sheet was evaluated using an abacus defining a score from 0 to 6 (0 no residue, 6 a lot of residue). Note that a significant difference is observable when the difference is greater than or equal to 1. The results obtained are shown in the table below.

[0313] [Tables2] Exl according to invention with polyester DIMER DILINOL EYL DIMER DILINOL EATE Ex la outside invention without liquid polyester (4) Ex 1b outside invention without hydrosoluble polyol (7) Ex le outside invention with polyester DILINOLE IC ACID / BUTANE DIOL COPOLYM ER Ex Id outside invention with polyester BIS-DIGLYCERY L POLYACY-LADIPATE-2 FLAKES notes 1 4 2.5 4 3

[0314] The results showed that example 1 according to the invention containing the liquid polyester DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE associated with the polyol gives better resistance to friction compared to the counter-examples 1a, 1b, 1c and 1d outside the invention.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of the following formula (I): [Chem 1] R1-O-R2(I) in which Ri and R2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with Ri representing an acyl radical, and R2 representing an alkyl radical, and (2) at least one anionic surfactant, and (3) at least one base capable of partially or totally neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and (4) at least one liquid polyester (4) obtained from a) at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol of which is C16-C32, preferably C16-C22 and b) at least one unsaturated fatty acid dimer; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and (5) water; and (6) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase;and (7) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.;

2. Composition according to claim 1, containing less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 3% by weight of wax(es), relative to the total weight of said composition.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the linear fatty acid monoester (I) is selected from arachidyl arachidate and behenyl behenate, preferably the linear fatty acid monoester is behenyl behenate.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 5.0% by weight, preferably at least 6.0% by weight, more preferably at least 7.0% by weight of linear fatty acid monoester(s) (1) relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular the content of linear fatty acid monoester(s) varies from 6.0 to 35.0% by weight, preferably from 7.0 to 30.0% by weight, more particularly from 8.0 to 28.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant is present in a content ranging from 3.5 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 4.0 to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said anionic surfactant(s) (2) is (are) chosen from - C12-C20 mono-alkyl phosphates; - fatty acids having from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms; - mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to claim 6, comprising at least the anionic surfactant stearic acid with the INCI name STEARIC ACID neutralized by aminomethylpropanediol.

8. Composition according to claim 6, comprising at least the anionic surfactant mono-cetyl phosphate in its form neutralized by potash (KOH), namely the potassium salt of mono-cetyl phosphate with the INCI name POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one liquid polyester (4) chosen from those with the following names: INCI DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE, DI-LINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER, DILINOLEIC ACID / PROPANEDIOL COPOLYMER, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the liquid polyester (4) is present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.5% to 10% and more preferably from 2 to 6% relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even a content of 50 to 60% by weight of water (5), relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the film-forming polymer(s) (6) in the form of particles suspended in water are present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A composition according to any preceding claim, comprising an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of acrylic film-forming polymer (6), in particular with the INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the water-soluble liquid polyol (7) is 1,3-butylene glycol with INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the water-soluble liquid polyol(s) (7) are present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% and more preferably from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one filler (8).

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol (9); preferably chosen from linear and saturated C14-C30 fatty alcohols; better chosen from linear and saturated C14-C24 fatty alcohols; more particularly chosen from linear and saturated C14-C20 fatty alcohols; even better chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearic alcohol and their mixtures.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising at least one semi-crystalline polymer (10), preferably a semi-crystalline polymer derived from a crystallizable chain monomer chosen from saturated C10 to C30 alkyl (meth)acrylates, and more particularly chosen from poly(stearyl acrylate), poly(behenyl acrylate) and mixtures thereof.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a liquid fatty phase (11), preferably comprising at least one non-volatile oil chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

20. Composition according to claim 19, comprising less than 5.0% by weight, more preferably less than 2.0% by weight of volatile oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of volatile oil.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer (12), preferably a hydroxyalkylcellulose, and more particularly a hydroxyethylcellulose.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant (13) with an HLB greater than 8, in particular Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims having a dry extract content of at least 25.0% by weight, and preferably at least 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even from 30.0 to 60.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims having at 25°C a consistency characterized by a hardness > 20g, preferably ranging from 20 to 200g, even more preferably ranging from 30 to 150g.

25. A composition according to any preceding claim in the form of an eyelash product such as mascara, an eyebrow product or an eye contour product such as eyeliner.

26. Set or kit for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers comprising: - a packaging device comprising a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 25; - an applicator for said composition.

27. ​​Process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin around the eyelashes, the skin around the eyebrows, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 25.