Fluid W / O emulsion with a specific polyester, a volatile alkane, at least 50% liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase, a non-ionic polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic surfactant

Abstract

Title: Fluid W / O emulsion with at least 50% of liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase, a volatile alkane, a particular polyester, a non-ionic polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic surfactant. The present invention relates to a fluid water-in-oil emulsion comprising: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid; B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising: 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) possibly at least one non-volatile oil;and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, where the liquid component(s) of said aqueous phase represent(s) at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and D) at least one non-ionic surfactant of HLB less than 8.0 whose chemical structure results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxystearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions; the weight ratio of non-ionic surfactant(s) D) / polyester A) is greater than or equal to 0.9 and preferably greater than or equal to 1.0.

Description

Title of the invention: Fluid W / O emulsion with a particular polyester, a volatile alkane, at least 50% of liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase, a non-ionic polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic surfactant Technical field

[0001] The present invention aims to propose for the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, lips, eyelashes or eyebrows, a fluid composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least one particular polyester, at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, at least 50% by weight of liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one non-ionic surfactant of HLB < 8.0 whose chemical structure results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxy stearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions.

[0002] The care and / or makeup compositions of keratin materials can be presented in the form of numerous textures which condition their sensory properties. Examples include oily textures, aqueous textures, gels, creams, mousses, powders or even sticks. These textures are more or less liquid or solid.

[0003] When it comes to a makeup product, liquid textures are appreciated because they are light and easy to apply, they also allow a more homogeneous distribution of pigments and pearls.

[0004] There are many foundations, lip glosses, eye shadows and liners on the market that have a fluid texture.

[0005] This liquid texture is obtained in galenics which can be anhydrous or in emulsion.

[0006] Emulsions can be defined as heterogeneous systems comprising at least two immiscible liquid phases, or having very low miscibility between them. In these systems, one of the phases is dispersed in the form of fine droplets in the other phase, so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture with the naked eye. Conventionally, the formulator of cosmetic compositions uses emulsified systems combining an aqueous phase for freshness and an oily phase for comfort.

[0007] The strong point of these systems is to allow the association within the same composition of ingredients or cosmetic active ingredients having distinct affinities with respect to screw of these two aqueous and fatty phases, immiscible at room temperature.

[0008] Inverse emulsion type compositions (water-in-oil emulsion, the aqueous phase being in a dispersed form in the continuous fatty phase) have many advantages, with regard to the good level of coverage and the homogeneous appearance that they provide compared to direct emulsions (oil-in-water emulsions). Their weak point, however, is a significant feeling of greasyness and stickiness, and therefore a lack of lightness for the textures obtained.

[0009] In order to overcome these drawbacks, it has already been proposed to formulate inverse emulsions comprising a significant content of liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase comprising water in part or completely, in particular at least 50.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These emulsions are commonly called HIPE inverse emulsions, for "High Internal Phase Emulsion" in English.

[0010] HIPE inverse emulsions have the disadvantage of increasing viscosity due to the high amount of water.

[0011] Furthermore, water-in-oil emulsions intended for makeup most often contain synthetic film-forming polymers which provide hold, but which also tend to increase the viscosity of the product, especially when they are present in the continuous oily phase.

[0012] It has already been proposed in the makeup compositions of the prior art to use liquid or pasty polyesters of natural origin to obtain holding properties.

[0013] Mention may in particular be made of documents JP2002-128623, JP2002-128628, JP2002-128629 and EP1604634, which describe polyesters of dilinoleic diacid and dilinoleic diol dimer with the INCI name DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DL LINOLEATE such as those marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade names LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

[0014] To obtain holding properties in makeup compositions, polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol have also been proposed in document FR29316739, in particular the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol such as the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name VISCOPLAST 14436H® (INCI name: DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER).

[0015] It is also known to use, in particular in documents JP2005-325079 and JP2006-28129, polyesters of hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride and a saturated fatty diacid for providing hold to makeup compositions. Examples of polyesters include in particular those of the name INCI HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL / SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER as the product marketed under the name CRODABOND CSA® by the company CRODA as well as the dimer dilinoleate of hydrogenated castor oil with the name INCI: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE as the product marketed under the names RISOCAST-DA-L®, RISOCAST DA-H®, by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO.

[0016] Patent application US2021 / 0259930A1 from Nouryon Chemicals discloses water-in-oil emulsions resistant to water comprising at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid and at least one water-in-oil emulsifier. The single exemplary formulation comprises - 4% by weight of Tri(polyglyceryl-3 / Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate sold under the commercial reference CITHROL PGTL® by the company Croda, - 1.66% by weight of a mixture of 60% by weight of polyester and 40% by weight of Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, i.e. 1% of polymer; - 44.62% by weight of liquid components of the aqueous phase [.

[0017] However, this type of polyester used alone or combined with certain surfactants in HIPE inverse emulsions does not make it possible to obtain care and / or makeup products with a fluid texture.

[0018] For the purposes of the invention, the term “fluid product” means any composition having a viscosity at 25°C less than or equal to 1500 mPa.s (1500 centipoises), measured using an RM 200® rotary rheometer from Lamy Rheology Instruments, after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle 3 at a speed of 200 rpm. After manufacture, the samples are stored for 24 to 72 hours at room temperature (25°C). The viscosity measurements are carried out at a temperature of 25°C, kept constant using an EVA MS-R® temperature controller from Lamy Rheology Instruments.

[0019] There remains a need to find new fluid care and / or makeup products in the form of a HIPE inverse emulsion comprising at least one lipophilic polyester and at least one suitable emulsifying surfactant, making it possible to obtain a fluid texture.

[0020] During its research, the applicant unexpectedly discovered that this objective could be achieved with a fluid water-in-oil emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials such as the skin, lips, eye contour eyes, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows including in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monoacid; B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising: 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) optionally at least one non-volatile oil; and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, wherein the liquid component(s) of said aqueous phase represent(s) at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and D) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8.0, the chemical structure of which results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxystearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions; the weight ratio of non-ionic surfactant(s) D) / polyester A) being greater than or equal to 0.9 and preferably greater than or equal to 1.0.

[0021] This discovery is the basis of the invention.

[0022] The compositions according to the invention in the form of HIPE inverse emulsion are stable, have a fluid texture and good holding properties. In addition, the applicant has unexpectedly discovered that the combination of at least one polyester A) with at least one non-ionic surfactant D) as defined previously in the compositions according to the invention produces, after application to the keratin material, a remarkable sensation of softness to the touch. Objects of the invention

[0023] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a fluid water-in-oil emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials such as the skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of monofatty acid; B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising: 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) optionally at least one non-volatile oil; and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, wherein the liquid component(s) of said aqueous phase represent(s) at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and D) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8.0, the chemical structure of which results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxy stearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions; the weight ratio of non-ionic surfactant(s) D) / polyester A) being greater than or equal to 0.9 and preferably greater than or equal to 1.0.

[0024] The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, the eye contour, the eyelids, the eyelashes and the eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[0025] The invention also relates to the use of at least one polyester A) and at least one non-ionic surfactant D) as defined previously in a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least 50% by weight of liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil in the oily phase, to provide softness to the touch after application. Definitions

[0026] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin, the lips, the eye contour, the eyelids, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.

[0027] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0028] By "polyester" is meant any polymer obtained by condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular skeleton contains the repetition of its ester function. The ester function designates a characteristic group formed by an atom linked simultaneously to an oxygen atom by a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the linked atom is a carbon atom, we speak of a carboxylic ester, whose general form is R-COO-R'.

[0029] By "polyglycerol-3" is meant triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, and preferably triglycerol is the majority in said mixture.

[0030] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-in-oil emulsion", also called inverse emulsion, is intended to denote any composition consisting of a continuous oily phase in which the aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture with the naked eye.

[0031] By "liquid component of the aqueous phase" is meant any molecule present in the phase and which flows under its own weight at room temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 .105 Pa).

[0032] Polyester A) of polyglycerol-3 / dimer acid / mono fatty acid in Cg-Qn

[0033] The composition according to the invention at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one monofatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids.

[0034] The polyesters of the invention are described as well as their synthesis in patent applications US 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930.

[0035] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of active polyester material varies from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product.

[0037] By "substantially non-sequential reaction product" is meant the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iü).

[0038] By "completely non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iii)" is meant that the total contents of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted are added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0039] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of the components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iü) are added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0040] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process that involves introducing all of the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0041] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly denotes a glycerol residue after elimination of two hydroxyl groups.

[0042] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol comprises polyglycerols which can be any oligocondensation product of glycerol. They preferably correspond to formula (I): [Chem 1]

[0043] wherein each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

[0044] Generally, most Gly groups are of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although residues involving etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the scope of "Gly" and, therefore, may also be present.

[0045] Examples of polyglycerol-3 include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in which n is in particular from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5 and in particular 2, 3 or 4, or mixtures of oligoglycerols in these ranges.

[0046] Examples of particularly suitable polyglycerol-3 include a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture. - glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, most preferably 0 to 15% by weight; - diglycerol: 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, most preferably 20 to 32% by weight; - triglycerol: 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, most preferably 18 to 55% by weight; - tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, so as to most preferred 8 to 20% by weight; - pentaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, most preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - hexaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, most preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - heptaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, most preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - octaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, most preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - nonaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0 to 2% by weight; - decaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0 to 2% by weight.

[0047] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises the following distribution of polyglycerols: Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight; Diglycerol: 15 to 40% by weight; Triglycerol: 10 to 55% by weight; Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight; Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0048] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in blend form is composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in blend form.

[0049] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in blend form is composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; wherein all percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in blend form.

[0050] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0051] Analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition may be performed to determine its median or "average" polyglycerol number. The above examples of polyglycerols with narrow and broad distributions may also be referred to as polyglycerol-3, as this is the closest integer to the average and / or the median. Dimer acid

[0052] The dimer acid may be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They may be linear or branched, such as, for example, dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

[0053] Dimeric fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, these are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids which are obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0054] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference is made to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. EC Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0055] The dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0056] Preferred dimer acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C18 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce C18 unsaturated monobasic fatty acids. The starting materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybean, pumpkin, and walnut can be used. The target monobasic acids used in the reaction are rich in the oleic and linoleic acid forms described in the fatty acid list contained below. The dimerization primarily results in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After reaction, the product can be retained as a reaction product mixture or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions.In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a majority (at least 60 wt. %, more preferably at least 75 wt. %) of dimeric acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimeric acids (less than 30 wt. %, more preferably less than 25 wt. %).

[0057] In one case, a standard dimer acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, which contains 72% by weight dimer and 19% by weight trimer acid, is used.

[0058] In another case, a standard hydrogenated dimer acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, is used, which contains 87% by weight of dimer and 10% by weight of trimer acid. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a mo higher molecular weight, more hydrophobic character and higher viscosity than can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimer acid further improves the molecular weight and performance of these polymers.

[0059] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0060] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimer acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18-C18 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimer acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C18-C18 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0061] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight, based on a total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0062] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or more preferably at most 90% by weight, or more preferably at most 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight). C8-C30 monofatty acid

[0063] The C8-C30 monofatty acids may include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, etc., but these contain both lower and higher MW chains. Useful monofatty acids may be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic materials with acidity provided by carboxylic acid moieties.

[0064] Acids suitable for the invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (Ci0), undecylic acid (Cn), lauric acid (Ci2), tridecylic acid (Ci3), myristic acid (Ci4), pentadecylic acid (Ci5), palmitic acid (Ci6), margaric acid (Ci7), stearic acid (Ci8), isostearic acid (Ci8), nonadecylic acid (Ci9), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0065] Comparison of stearic and isostearic acids shows that branching leads to a high melting point and results in a low viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in handling raw materials and also to allow esters made with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along the straight carbon chain and are produced in the nature by microbial action. Isostearic acid is available as a reaction by-product in the creation of the dimer acid described above.

[0066] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use linear and branched unsaturated monofatty acids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), vaccenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18:2), a-linolenic acid (C18:3), g-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:1), gondoic acid (C20:1), dihomo-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6) and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the designation means that the length of the carbon chain is X carbon atoms; and there are Y number of double bonds in the chain.

[0067] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0068] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or wholly non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case based on the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and iii) isostearic acid.

[0069] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process that involves introducing all of the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0070] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl moieties (total esterification) of 24 to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl moieties by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of 20 to 40%. More importantly, the degree of esterification by the end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this specification and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid of 4 to 40%.

[0071] It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28 to 57% with an esterification with a dimer acid of 20 to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8 and 27%.

[0072] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33 to 48% with an esterification with a dimer acid of 20 to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid between 13 and 20%.

[0073] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24 to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20 to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid between 4 and 40%.

[0074] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28 to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20 to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8 and 27%.

[0075] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0076] It is also even more preferred to also have most preferred a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0077] In one embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid.

[0078] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0079] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0080] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0081] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0082] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0083] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0084] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 moles of isostearic acid.

[0085] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0086] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0087] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0088] By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid termination and balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer-polyglycerol acid extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, leads to much higher viscosities.

[0089] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50,000 mPa.s and less than 5,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0090] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75,000 mPa.s and < 2,500,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0091] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0092] In a most preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 1,000,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0093] Viscosity is measured using an Anton Paar Inc. MCR3O2® rheometer. Twin rough or smooth 50 mm diameter flat plates were used, covered with a polymer sample, adjusted to a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. In addition, the polymers of this disclosure have demonstrated a reduced viscosity with temperature. Thus, viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally as a shear rate of 1. Values ​​are reported in mPa.s.

[0094] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by weight-average molecular masses > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0095] The GPC column used for these tests consisted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous phase of Tetrahydrofuran (THF) was used and injected at 0.35 ml / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 pL injection and a refractive index detector Wyatt Ri fraction. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended to be monodisperse. The narrow-range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared in mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da and 208 Da. From standard methodologies, the weight- and number-average molecular mass is automatically calculated by standard GPC software.

[0096] In a preferred embodiment, the described polyesters have a weight average molecular weight > 4,000 Da and < 250,000 Da as measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a most preferred embodiment, the described polymers have a weight average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 150,000 Da as measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0097] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of weight average molecular weight > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity at 25°C > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.

[0098] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case based on the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid; wherein the polymer has a combination of weight average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 15,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity of the neat polymer > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C; and wherein the copolymer is also characterized by total esterification of about 40%, esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0099] In practice, since the raw ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimeric and trimer acid content, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl moieties and carboxylic acid moieties as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR and liquid chromatography. The above esterification ranges are based on the ideal structure of polyglycerol-3 and the C36 dimer acid. Actual ranges may therefore vary slightly from the values ​​given above and can be calculated based on these analytical values.

[0100] It is more convenient to define the extent of polymerization by the final acid number. The initial acid values, in light of the distribution of polyglycerol, monoacid and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid value determined by the raw ingredient used.

[0101] For an example, the initial total acid number ("AV" which is commonly defined as mg KOH / g total reactant) is 135 AV. This includes 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All of the preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV that can be calculated. When during the polymerization reaction the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percent conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactant acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

[0102] Thus, the completion rate of the TAch reaction is defined by the following equation: [Math 1]

[0103] Tach = 1 - Final AV / initial AV

[0104] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of 0.1 to <25 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0105] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of 0.1 to < 10 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0106] In a most preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of 0.1 to < 5 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0107] The reaction completion rate being defined by the equation 1- AV final / AV initial, the reaction completion rate of such mixtures in final polymer is > 80%.

[0108] In a preferred embodiment, the reaction completion rate of such blends to final polymer is > 90%.

[0109] In a most preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such blends to the final polymer is > 95%.

[0110] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a reaction product of a polyglycerol-3, a C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of document US 2021 / 0259945.

[0111] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising: (a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) at least one non-volatile oil as defined above.

[0112] According to a particular form, the non-volatile oil is a triglyceride of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0113] The oily polyester solution of the invention can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the non-volatile oil or oils at approximately 80-100°C. The whole is then further cooled to 50-70°C to be removed from the reactor and stored.

[0114] The polyester oily solution of the invention preferably contains the polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily solution.

[0115] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains an oily solution comprising 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of document US 2021 / 0259945.

[0116] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising a) a polyester obtained by reaction ' (i) polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (AND) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE.

[0117] Such an oily solution is marketed under the name SOLAMAZE NATURAL® by the company NOURYON comprising 60% by weight of active polyester material and 40% by weight of a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride relative to to the total weight of the oily solution. Continuous oil phase B)

[0118] The composition of the invention comprises a continuous oily phase B). Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20-45 25 °C). It is organic and immiscible in water.

[0119] The oily phase B) of the composition of the invention comprises 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) optionally at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0.

[0120] The total concentration in oily phase B) of the composition of the invention preferably varies from 20 to 50% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 22 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0121] The composition in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0122] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 105 Pa).

[0123] By “hydrocarbon oil” is meant an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0124] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0125] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from branched C8-Ci6 alkanes. Mention may be made in particular of C8-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®.

[0126] Mention may also be made of branched C8-Ci6 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SHELL, may also be used.

[0127] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0128] As an example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.

[0129] As examples of linear C6-Ci4 alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (Ci0 ), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (Ci4), and mixtures thereof.

[0130] Mention may in particular be made of n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12 97® and PARAFOL 14 97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0131] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. In particular, the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85 / 15 marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® can be used.

[0132] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear C9-C[2] alkanes with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE is used, such as the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®.

[0133] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) is used, such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by the company BASF.

[0134] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.

[0135] The volatile oil or oils are preferably present in the composition of the invention at contents ranging from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Non-volatile oils

[0136] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, as a function of the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0137] The non-volatile oils in accordance with the invention may be chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and their mixtures.

[0138] As examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, such as those marketed by Stéarineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® from Dynamit Nobel; triglycerides of branched fatty acids in C18-C36 and glycerol, such as that marketed under the name DUB TGI 24® by Stéarineries Dubois (INCI name Cl8-36 Acid Triglyceride); - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, or squalane; - synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as di-caprylyl ether; - synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, tri-heptanoin, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, heptyl undecylenate, dii-sostearyl malate and tridecyl trimellitate; - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, comprising a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain comprising 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate; - acetates; - citrates; - their mixtures.

[0139] According to a particular form, the non-volatile oil is a triglyceride of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0140] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0.

[0141] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester is between 0 and 8, and more particularly from 1 to 3. Aqueous phase C)

[0142] The composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase C) in which the liquid component(s) represent at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0143] The aqueous phase C) comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as water-soluble solvents, water-soluble active agents, water-soluble antimicrobial agents.

[0144] A water suitable for the invention may be a demineralized water, a floral water such as blue water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

[0145] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be present in the aqueous phase, mention may be made of C2-C6 monoalcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol. Mention may also be made of polyols such as glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0146] According to a particular form, the composition of the invention additionally comprises at least one C2-C6 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0147] According to a preferred form; the composition of the invention comprises one or more liquid components of the aqueous phase in a content ranging from 50 to 80% by weight, more preferably ranging from 52 to 70% and even more preferably ranging from 55 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] The liquid component(s) present in the aqueous phase C) are generally constituted in part or totally by water, preferably by water and one or more water-soluble solvents such as those indicated above, active agents in liquid form, antimicrobial agents in liquid form and their mixtures.

[0149] According to a particular form, the composition according to the invention comprises water in an amount of at least 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 50 to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from 50 to 62% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] Non-ionic surfactants D) polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic of HLB < 8.0

[0151] The water-in-oil emulsions according to the invention comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant D) with an HLB of less than 8.0, the chemical structure of which results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxystearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions. Preferably, the polyol is polyethylene glycol or polyglycerol.

[0152] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “surfactant” means an amphiphilic compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value, HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For surfactants used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, the HLB is generally less than 8.0. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0153] Examples include: - Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate sold under the commercial reference ISOLAN GPS® by the company Evonik Degussa, - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the commercial reference DEHYMULS PGPH® by the company BASF, - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate sold under the commercial reference SY-GLYSTER CRS-75® by the company Sakamoto Yakuhin; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate sold under the reference EMULIUM ILLUSTRO® by the company Gattefossé, - Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate sold under the commercial reference AKOLINE PGPR® by the company Aarhus Karlshamn, - Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate sold under the commercial reference SUNSOFT N0.8I8R-C® by the company Taiyo Kagaku, - Polyglyceryl-10 Polyricinoleate sold under the commercial reference NIKKOL DECAGLYN PR 20® by Nikko Chemicals Co., - PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the commercial reference CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV) ® by the company Croda; and their mixtures.

[0154] The content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) D) according to the invention preferably varies from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Powdered coloring matter

[0155] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises at least one pulverulent coloring material.

[0156] The powdery coloring materials can be chosen from pigments minerals, organic pigments, nacres and their mixtures.

[0157] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0158] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0159] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti 2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0160] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0161] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 100 nm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0162] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the Master Sizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0163] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.

[0164] According to a particular form of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter being preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0165] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable waxes or animal; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0166] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0167] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the commercial reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the commercial reference BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI 77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWRO-12® (Iron Oxide CI 77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

[0169] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0170] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0171] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 1725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenol derivatives as described in patent FR2 679 771.

[0172] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0173] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0174] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0175] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names may also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0176] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0177] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent coloring material of mineral pigment type, in particular chosen from metal oxides, and more particularly uncoated black iron oxides (CI 77499).

[0178] The nacres can be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0179] Preferably, the pulverulent coloring material(s) is (are) present, preferably, in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives

[0180] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products such as: - active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - additional fat-soluble or water-soluble coloring matters - UV filters; - charges; - perfumes - conservatives - and their mixtures.

[0181] It is a matter of routine operation for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not affected. Water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring matters

[0182] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or liposoluble coloring matter and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of those skilled in the art.

[0184] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be liposoluble.

[0185] By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

[0186] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0187]

[00133] Additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

[0188]

[00134] For the purposes of the invention, the term “water-soluble coloring matter” means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in a phase aqueous or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0189] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. Charges

[0190] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler making it possible, in particular, to give them additional properties of mattness, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0191] By "filler" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They make it possible to give body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to the makeup.

[0192] The fillers can be inorganic or organic.

[0193] Preferably, they can be chosen from natural or naturally derived fillers.

[0194] By "natural compound" is meant a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0195] By "compound of natural origin" is meant a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising mainly natural constituents that have or have not undergone transformations. As a non-limiting example of additional chemical or industrial treatments resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by control organizations such as Ecocert (Reference for organic and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toileries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.

[0196] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber forms or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0197] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with amino acids or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0198] Examples of mineral fillers include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. b) Organic fillers

[0199] Examples of organic fillers include natural micronized waxes; metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, cellulose powders such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.

[0200] Preferably, the filler(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic applications

[0201] The composition used according to the invention may be a care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials such as the skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0202] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the skin such as foundations, blushers and eyeshadows.

[0203] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the lips such as a lipstick or a gloss.

[0204] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the eye contour such as an eyeliner, eyelashes or eyebrows such as a mascara.

[0205] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0206] Packaging and application assembly or kit

[0207] The present invention also relates to a set, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials. comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0208] The container may delimit one or more compartment(s). The container may for example example be in the form of a tube.

[0209] Such an applicator may be integral with a cap mounted reversibly on said container between a position for closing said container and a makeup position.

[0210] Alternatively, such an applicator may be irreversibly mounted on said container.

[0211] It is understood that within the framework of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0212] Throughout the application, the expression "has a" or "includes a" must be understood as meaning "having at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0213] It is understood that the following examples are provided for illustrative purposes and are in no way limiting of the scope of the protection conferred by the present application. Examples of foundation

[0214] 1 / Influence of the nature of the non-ionic surfactant on the viscosity

[0215] Examples 1 to 5 according to the invention and comparative examples 6 to 10 were prepared having the following composition as a common support:

[0216] {Table 1] Ingredients % by weight Phase ISODODECANE 17.33 A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT 2.50 DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DL LINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-NOURYON) 4.16 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 0.77 WATER 58.02 B SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE 1.22 C TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77891 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 8.71 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77499 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0.17 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77491 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0.52 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77492 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 1.60 ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL 5.00 D TOTAL 100.0 Ratio % Surfactant / % Polyester 1.00 Operating mode:

[0217] The constituents of phase A were weighed together by dividing their respective quantity into two equal parts in two beakers, one being the main beaker and the other an annex.

[0218] Each of the two beakers was homogenized at room temperature by stirring with a Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating blade for 3 minutes at 500 rpm.

[0219] In the main beaker, water was added very slowly, over 4 to 5 minutes, stirring with a Rayneri equipped with a stator rotor and gradually increasing the stirring speed from 800 to 1600 rpm in steps of 200 rpm every minute.

[0220] In the meantime, the ingredients of phase C were added to the attached beaker and stirred using a Rayneri mixer fitted with a deflocculating blade for 5 minutes at 500 rpm.

[0221] The contents of the attached beaker were then added to the main beaker, maintaining stirring at 1600 rpm until the mixture was completely homogenized.

[0222] Finally, the ethanol was added while maintaining stirring at 1600 rpm for 3 minutes. It was allowed to cool and packaged in a jar.

[0223] In each of the examples 1 to 10 to be tested, the nature of the non-ionic surfactant with HLB < 8.0 was varied.

[0224] The viscosity at 25°C of each of the compositions was measured using an RM 200® rotary rheometer from Lamy Rheology Instruments, after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle 3 at a speed of 200 rpm. After manufacture, the samples are stored for 24 to 72 hours at room temperature (25°C). The viscosity measurements are carried out at a temperature of 25°C, kept constant using an EVA MS-R® temperature controller from Lamy Rheology Instruments.

[0225] The viscosity results depending on the nature of the non-ionic surfactant used are indicated in the table below:

[0226] [Tables2] Surfactant Example Viscosity (mPa.s) PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate (CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV)® de CRODA) Exemple 1 (Invention) 192 Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (DEHYMULS PGPH® de BASF) Exemple 2 (Invention) 694 Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate (and) Po-lyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (EMULIUM ILLUSTRO de GATTEFOSSE) Exemple 3 (Invention) 820 Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhy-droxystearate / Sebacate (ISOLAN GPS® d’EVONIK) Exemple 4 (Invention) 1150 Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (SY-GLYSTER CRS-75 de SAKAMOTO YAKUHIN) Exemple 5 (Invention) 1405 Polyglycéryl-3 Diisostearate (LAMEFORM TGI® de BASF) Exemple 6 (Comparatif) 1573 Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate (SALACOS 41V® de NISSHIN OILLIO) Exemple 7 (Comparatif) 1824 Tri(Polyglyceryl-3 / lLauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate (SP CITHROL PGTL MBAL-LQ-(GD) de CRODA) Exemple 8 (Comparatif) 1907 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (ISOLAN GI34® d’EVONIK) Exemple 9 (Comparatif) 2158 Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Di-linoleate (ISOLAN PDI® d’EVONIK) Exemple 10 (Comparatif) 2242 .

[0227] These results showed that examples 1 to 5 of the invention comprising a non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8.0 which has in its chemical structure a polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic chain exhibited a fluid texture within the meaning of the invention (viscosity < 1500 mPa.s) unlike comparative examples 6 to 10 comprising a non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8.0 having a different chemical structure.

[0228] Furthermore, examples 1 to 5 of foundation of the invention were characterized by their ease of application in connection with their fluidity and a very soft film after drying.

[0229] II / Influence of the non-ionic surfactant / polymer weight ratio on viscosity

[0230] Examples 11 to 13 were prepared without the common support invention with Example 4 of the invention as described above but in which the non-ionic surfactant / polyester weight ratio was varied. Examples 11 to 13 were prepared according to the same procedure as Examples 1 to 10.

[0231] [Tables3] Ingrédients Exemple 4 (Invention) Exemple 11 (Comparatif) Exemple 12 (Comparati f) Exemple 13 (Comparatif ) ISODODECANE 17,33 17,33 17,33 17,33 POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIL SOSTEARATE / POLYHYD ROXYSTEARATE / SEBAC ATE (ISOLAN GPS® -EVONIK) 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50 DIISOSTEAROYL POLY-GLYCERYL-3 DIMER DL LINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-NOURYON) 4,16 5,0 5,55 8,32 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 0,77 0,43 0,21 0 WATER 58,02 57,52 57,19 54,63 SYNTHETIC FLUOR- PHLOGOPITE 1,22 1,22 1,22 1,22 TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77891 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 8,71 8,71 8,71 8,71 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL 0,17 0,17 0,17 0,17 GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77499 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77491 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0.52 0.52 0.52 0.52 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77492 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 TOTAL (% by mass) 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 Weight ratio Non-ionic surfactant / Polyester 1.00 0.83 0.75 0.50

[0232] The viscosity at 25°C of each of compositions 4, 11 to 13 was measured using an RM 200® rotary rheometer from Lamy Rheology Instruments, after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle 3 at a speed of 200 rpm in the same previous conditions.

[0233] The viscosity results are shown in the table above.

[0234] [Tables4] Example Weight ratio Non-ionic surfactant / Polyester Viscosity (mPa.s) Example 4 (Invention) 1.00 1150 Example 11 (Comparative) 0.83 1907 Example 12 (Comparative) 0.75 2196 Example 13 (Comparative) 0.50 3037

[0235] These results showed that it was necessary to have a non-ionic surfactant / polyester weight ratio greater than or equal to 0.9 to obtain a fluid texture formulation according to the invention, namely with a viscosity less than or equal to 1500 mPa.s.

[0236] III / Influence of the absence of non-ionic surfactant with polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic structure,

[0237] Example 14 outside the invention was prepared, which is a foundation not containing a non-ionic surfactant with HLB < 8.0 and a polyhydroxystearic and / or polyricinoleic structure:

[0238] [Tables5] Ingrédients Exemple 14 (Invention) Phase A ISODODECANE 17,33 DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DL LINOLEATE (60%) (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (40%) (SOLAMAZE NATURAL®-NOURYON) 4,16 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 0,77 WATER 60,52 B SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE 1,22 C TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77891 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 8,71 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77499 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0,17 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77491 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0,52 IRON OXIDES (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE / CI 77492 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 1,60 ABSOLUTE ALCOHOL 5,00 D TOTAL 100,00 Ratio % Tensio-actif / % Polyester 0 Procedure: procedure identical to the previous examples

[0239] The viscosity of the composition was measured at 25°C under the same conditions as those of Examples 1 to 13. The viscosity of this foundation was 2995 mPa.s.

[0240] This result showed that in the absence of surfactant of the invention, the foundation is not fluid.

Claims

Claims

1. Fluid water-in-oil emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials such as the skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: A) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monoacid; B) at least one continuous oily phase comprising: 1) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and 2) optionally at least one non-volatile oil;and C) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase, where the liquid component(s) of said aqueous phase represent(s) at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and D) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8.0, the chemical structure of which results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxystearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions; the weight ratio of non-ionic surfactant(s) D) / polyester A) being greater than or equal to 0.9 and preferably greater than or equal to 1.0.;

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyester A) is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyester A) is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; said polyglycerols corresponding to formula (I) Hf— in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polyester A) is a substantially or wholly non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case based on the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case based on the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and iii) isostearic acid.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polyester A) is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

10. A composition according to any preceding claim, comprising at least one oily solution comprising: a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one monofatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile oil(s) to the amount of polyester being less than 8.

0.

11. A composition according to claim 10, wherein the polyester oil solution contains said polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil solution.

12. A composition according to claim 10 or 11, wherein the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution, in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

13. A composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12, comprising an oily solution comprising a) a polyester obtained by reaction of (i) a polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (AND) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the total concentration in oily phase B) varies from 20 to 50% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 22 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils are at levels ranging from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

16. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isodecane.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile oil; the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) to the quantity of polyester being less than 8.0, preferably between 0 and 8 and more particularly from 1 to 3.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and more preferably from fatty acid triglycerides containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly is a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where in the aqueous phase C), the liquid component(s) represent(s) from 50 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 52 to 70% and even more preferably ranging from 55 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water in an amount ranging from 50 to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from 50 to 62% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-ionic surfactant D) is chosen from - Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate, - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, - Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, - Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate, - Polyglyceryl-10 Polyricinoleate, - PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate; and mixtures thereof.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) D) varies from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7% by weight, and even more pre- preferably between 2 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular ethanol.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one coloring material, preferably chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, nacres and their mixtures; and more particularly chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and their mixtures and even more particularly coated iron oxides, coated titanium dioxides, and their coated mixtures.

25. Composition according to claim 24, where the pulverulent coloring matter(s) is (are) present in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additive chosen from: - active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; - UV filters - fillers; - perfumes - preservatives - and mixtures thereof.

27. ​​Assembly, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials. comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials. as defined in any one of the preceding claims, - an applicator of said composition.

28. Process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 26.

29. Use of at least one polyester A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 and at least one non-ionic surfactant D) as defined in any one of claims 1, 21 and 22 in a water-in-oil emulsion comprising at least 50% by weight of liquid component(s) of the aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil in the oily phase, to provide softness to the touch after application.