SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS
The composition of silicone elastomer resin, hydrophobic silica, and sugar ester in the lipstick formulation addresses the issues of softness, breakage, and dryness, achieving a solid, matte, and uniformly colored finish that is neither greasy nor dry.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023012878
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-10-25
- Filing Date
- 2023-11-22
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-11-22
AI Technical Summary
Existing matte lipsticks often suffer from issues such as being too soft, easy to break, or excessively dry, while maintaining a uniform, non-greasy, and matte finish is challenging.
A composition for care and makeup of keratinous materials comprising at least one silicone elastomer resin, one hydrophobic silica, and one sugar ester, which provides a solid, matte, and uniformly colored finish without being greasy or dry.
The composition achieves a balance of hardness, ensuring it is not too soft or easy to break, while maintaining a matte finish, uniform coloring, and a non-greasy, non-dry sensation.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. More particularly, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up lips. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Lipsticks have been used for many years to accentuate the positive aspects of the wearer's lips. Lipsticks are capable of altering the apparent facial features of the wearer. In addition to altering the shape of the lips, lipsticks can be manufactured in a large number of colors and shades to promote a desired effect or express the mood of the wearer.
[0003] To date, certain state-of-the-art documents relating to cos compositions makeup and / or skin and / or lip care techniques have been published.
[0004] Lipsticks that offer a matte makeup finish are popular with consumers.
[0005] For most matte lipsticks, oil-absorbing fillers and silicone elastomers are used to create a matte and slippery effect to evenly color the entire lip without color difference.
[0006] For some lipsticks that provide a matte finish on lipsticks, some are easy to break or too soft, some are too dry, which is not desired.
[0007] Therefore, there is a need to develop a lipstick that is not easy to break or too soft and can provide a matte, evenly colored, non-greasy, and non-dry finish. Summary of the invention
[0008] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a lipstick which is not easy to break or too soft and which can provide a matte, evenly colored, non-greasy and non-dry makeup finish.
[0009] Another object of the present invention is to provide a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up the lips, which is not easy to break or too soft and which can provide a matte, evenly colored, non-greasy and non-drying makeup finish.
[0010] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition, of preference for care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising: a. at least one silicone elastomer resin; b. at least one hydrophobic silica; and c. at least one sugar ester chosen from C1-C30 monoesters and po sugar lyoesters.
[0011] The inventors have discovered that with the combination of the components a) to c) mentioned above, the composition according to the present invention is not easy to break or too soft and can provide a matte, uniformly colored, non-greasy and non-dry makeup finish.
[0012] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials.
[0013] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0014] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.
[0015] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0016] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0017] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0018] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing an amount of ingredients and the like that are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values that may be changed depending on the purpose desired, if applicable.
[0019] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0020] As used herein, the term "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. By "skin" is meant all skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the lips.
[0021] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is solid.
[0022] The term "solid" as used herein means that the hardness of the composition at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm 1 when measured according to the protocol described below.
[0023] The composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.
[0024] Hardness can be measured at 20°C by the "butter wire" method, which consists of transversely cutting a rod of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire of 250 μm diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / minute.
[0025] The hardness of the samples of compositions of the present invention, expressed in Nm *, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.
[0026] The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three shear values read using the above-mentioned tensile testing machine, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).
[0027] Hardness is converted to Nm 1 by the equation below:
[0028] (Y x 103 x 9.8) / L
[0029] For a measurement at a different temperature, the composition is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.
[0030] According to this measuring method, the composition according to the present invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure greater than or equal to 100 Nm 1 and preferably greater than 110 Nm1. Thus, these compositions can be formulated in a standard packaging which does not require any composition support means.
[0031] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has in particular a hardness at 20°C of less than 200 Nm1, and preferably of less than 160 Nm1.
[0032] The composition according to the present invention comprises: has. b. at least one silicone elastomer resin; at least one hydrophobic silica; and c. at least one sugar ester chosen from C1-C30 monoesters and sugar polyesters. Silicone elastomer resins
[0033] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer resin.
[0034] As used herein, "silicone elastomer resin" is a compound that comprises a "silicone elastomer" portion and a "resin" portion. Silicone elastomer resins are described or referenced in U.S. Patent Nos. 8,987,373 and 9,175,139 as well as U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2015 / 0073059.
[0035] With respect to the silicone elastomer portion, this portion corresponds to polyorganosiloxanes commonly known as silicone elastomers. In the art, "elastomer" is generally understood to mean a flexible and deformable solid material having viscoelastic properties. However, its modulus of elasticity is such that it is resistant to deformation and has a limited capacity to expand and contract.
[0036] The silicone elastomer portion is preferably partially or completely crosslinked. The degree of crosslinking may vary depending on the desired elastic properties. The crosslinking materials may be hydrophilic (e.g., ethylene oxide and propylene oxide), hydrophobic (e.g., dimethicone, vinyl dimethicone, alkyl, etc.), or combinations thereof.
[0037] The crosslinking may be obtained, for example, by an addition crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen atom bonded to a silicon atom and a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two groups comprising ethylenic unsaturation bonded to separate silicon atoms, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by a condensation / dehydrogenation crosslinking reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen atom bonded to a silicon atom, in particular in the presence of an organotin compound; or by a condensation crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl end groups and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst;or by crosslinking an organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation, such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam. ;
[0038] The crosslinking can be obtained, for example, by a crosslinking reaction by addition of (A) a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen atom bonded to a silicon atom and (B) a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two groups each comprising ethylenic unsaturation linked to a separate silicon atom, in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst such as, for example, disclosed in Application EP-A-295 886.
[0039] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Compound (A) may therefore be chosen from methylhydropolysiloxanes comprising tri-methylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy terminations or cyclic dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane copolymers.
[0040] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g. C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure, but the straight chain structure is preferred.In addition to the above-mentioned alkenyl groups, other organic groups bonded to silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; substituted alkyl groups, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups, such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; substituted aryl groups, such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane / methylphenylsiloxane copolymers comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane / methylphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups. dimethylvinylsiloxy and dimethylsiloxane / methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers comprising dimethylvi- termini. nylsiloxy.
[0041] According to preferred embodiments, the crosslinking is at least partially accomplished by the resin portion. Preferably, the crosslinking in the silicone elastomer resin is solely due to the resin portion.
[0042] With respect to the resin portion, using the same silicone resin nomenclature ("MDTQ") as discussed above, the resin portion may be described according to the various siloxane monomer units that constitute the polymer.
[0043] The letter M represents the monofunctional unit, for example, of formula (CH3)3SiO i / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
[0044] The letter D denotes a difunctional unit, for example, (CH3)2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
[0045] The letter T represents a trifunctional unit, for example, of formula (CH3)SiO3 / 2.
[0046] The letter Q denotes a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
[0047] Thus, for example, the resin portion may be a T resin, an MQ ("trimethylsiloxysilicate") resin, an MT resin, an MDT resin, an MDQ resin, etc.
[0048] In the M, D and T units listed as examples above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted with a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group. According to preferred embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms is a methyl group.
[0049] The silicone elastomer resin preferably has a particle size ranging from 0.1 to 500 qm, preferably from 3 to 200 qm and most preferably from 3 to 50 qm. The silicone elastomer resin can have any shape and, for example, be spherical, flat or amorphous.
[0050] According to preferred embodiments, when placed in a solvent, the silicone elastomer resin does not swell substantially (unlike typical silicone elastomers which swell upon introduction into a solvent). Preferably, when placed in a solvent, the silicone elastomer resin swells (increases in size) by less than 10% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state), preferably by less than 7.5% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state), preferably by less than 5% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state), preferably by less than 2.5% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state), preferably by less than 1% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state).
[0051] Preferably, the silicone elastomer resin comprises at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate group.
[0052] Suitable examples of silicone elastomeric resins include vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, available as BELSIL® RG 90 (isododecane (and) vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer) elastomeric gel from Wacker; dimethicone / vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosslinked polymer, available as BELSIL® REG 1102 (DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE / VINYLTRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER) from Wacker; and dimethicone / vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosslinked polymer, available as BELSIL® REG 102 (cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone / vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosslinked polymer) from Wacker.
[0053] In some embodiments, the silicone elastomeric resin is selected from vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicatestearyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone / vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] The silicone elastomeric resins may be dissolved in a suitable solvent, either before their introduction into the composition of the invention, or in situ within the composition. Examples of suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile silicones, volatile and non-volatile alcohols, volatile and non-volatile esters, volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof.
[0055] Advantageously, the silicone elastomer resin is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophobic silicas
[0056] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophobic silica.
[0057] The term "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean, in the context of the present invention, both pure hydrophobic silicas and particles coated with hydrophobic silica.
[0058] According to a specific embodiment, the hydrophobic silicas which can be used in the composition of the invention are amorphous and of sublimed origin. They are preferably provided in powder form.
[0059] Amorphous hydrophobic silicas of sublimed origin are obtained from hydrophilic silicas. The latter are obtained by pyrolysis of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl4) in a continuous flame at 1000 °C in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are then made hydrophobic by treatment with halogenated silanes, alkoxysilanes or silazanes. Hydrophobic silicas differ from the starting hydrophilic silicas, among other things, by a lower density of silanol groups and by a smaller adsorption of water vapor.
[0060] According to this embodiment, the hydrophobic silica is preferably chosen from silicas having a specific surface area of 50 to 500 m2 / g and a number-average particle size ranging from 3 to 50 nm. These are more particularly the hydrophobic silicas described in the following table, and their mixtures.
[0061] [Tables 1] Trade name Aerosil R202 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R805 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R812 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R972 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R974 (Evonik Degussa) BET surface (m2 / g) 90 + 20 150 + 25 260 + 30 110 + 20 170 + 20 Average particle size (nm) 14 12 7 16 12
[0062] According to this embodiment, the hydrophobic silica used in the composition of the invention may also consist of a particle entirely or partially covered with silica, in particular an inorganic particle entirely or partially covered with hydrophobic silica, such as pigments and metal oxides covered with hydrophobic silica. These particles may also have optical properties in the product and on the skin; for example, they may have a mattifying or slightly whitening effect.
[0063] Preferably, as hydrophobic silica, a hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated with a dimethylsiloxane, such as that sold under the name Aerosil R972 (INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) by Evonik Degussa, is used.
[0064] According to another specific embodiment, the hydrophobic silicas which can be used in the composition of the invention are hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g and a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5], also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 1 to 1500 pm.
[0065] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0066] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid the shrinkage of pores and material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
[0067] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and more preferably from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, more preferably from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, more preferably from 5 to 20 pm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0068] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.
[0069] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by the so-called nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered. The sizes of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvem. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”) Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0070] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5], also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.
[0071] The aerogel silica particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a compacted density (p) ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3 and preferably from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3.
[0072] In the context of the present invention, this density, known as name of compacted density, can be assessed according to the following protocol:
[0073] 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the cylinder is then placed on the Stampf Volumeter Stav 2003 device; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2500 tamping movements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of tamped powder is then measured on the test piece. The tamped density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and w in g).
[0074] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and even better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[0075] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relationship: SV = SW xp where p is the compacted density, expressed in g / cm3, and SW is the specific surface area per unit weight, expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0076] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, ranging from 5 to 18 mL / g, preferably from 6 to 15 mL / g and better still from 8 to 12 mL / g.
[0077] The absorption capacity measured at the wetting point, noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0078] It is measured according to the “wetting point” method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wetting point, described below:
[0079] A quantity w = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is carried out using a spatula and the addition of oil continues until conglomerates of oil and powder form. From this point on, the oil is added at the rate of one drop at a time, and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The weight (expressed in g) of the oil used is then noted.
[0080] The oil intake corresponds to the g / g ratio.
[0081] The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
[0082] The term "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as than alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
[0083] With regard to the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference may be made to US 7,470,725.
[0084] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica) will be used.
[0085] Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0086] Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203.
[0087] More particularly, the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0088] Advantageously, the hydrophobic silica is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Sugar esters
[0089] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one sugar ester chosen from C1-C30 monoesters, sugar polyesters and their mixture.
[0090] Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters can be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Suitable liquid esters may include, but are not limited to: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Suitable solid esters may include, but are not limited to: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are the palmitoleate and arachidate in a molar ratio of 1:2; raffinose octaester in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3; maltose heptaester in which the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a molar ratio of 3:4; sucrose octaester in which the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2:6; and sucrose octaester in which the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3:4.
[0091] Preferably, the sugar ester is selected from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sugars, in particular C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose. More preferably, the sugar ester is selected from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, and in particular sucrose diacetate hexakis(2-methylpropanoate), such as the product sold under the name Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher by the company Eastman Chemical (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate), which has a viscosity of approximately 100,000 cps at 30°C and a refractive index of approximately 1.5 at 20°C.
[0092] Advantageously, the sugar ester is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigments
[0093] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more pigments.
[0094] The term “pigments” should be understood as designating white or colored particles, inorganic (mineral) or organic, which are insoluble in a liquid organic phase, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition.
[0095] The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).
[0096] The mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, such as chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powders and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.
[0097] Among the organic pigments which may in particular be mentioned are those known as: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium Lake,D&C Red No. 8 Sodium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 10 Sodium Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 21 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Barium Lake, D&C Red Calcium Lake No. 27, D&C Red Zirconium Lake No. 27, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 28, D&C Red Lake No. 30, D&C Red Calcium Lake No. 31, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 33, D&C Red Calcium Lake No. 34, D&C Red Lake No. 36, D&C Red Aluminum Lake No. 40, D&C Blue Aluminum Lake No. 1, D&C Green Aluminum Lake No. 3, D&C Orange Aluminum Lake No. 4, D&C Orange Aluminum Lake No. 5, D&C Orange Zirconium Lake No. 5,D&C Orange No. 10 Aluminum Lake, D&C Orange No. 17 Barium Lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, and FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake.
[0098] The pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.
[0099] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as me- thicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising per- groups fluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether and amino acids; N-acylamino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate and mixtures thereof.
[0100] Preferably, the pigment is chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic pigments and mixtures thereof.
[0101] More preferably, the pigment is chosen from RED 7, YELLOW 6, iron oxides, titanium dioxide and their mixtures.
[0102] Advantageously, the pigment is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 14% by weight, preferably from 6% by weight to 13% by weight, more preferably from 6% by weight to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 6% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 6.5% by weight to 9% by weight, most preferably still from 6.5% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes
[0103] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more waxes.
[0104] The term "wax" designates a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which can go up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
[0105] Preferably, the wax is chosen from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, Cera Microcristallina, a C20-40 alkyl stearate and mixtures thereof.
[0106] More preferably, the wax is chosen from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, Cera Microcristallina, and mixtures thereof.
[0107] Advantageously, the wax is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils)
[0108] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more oils.
[0109] As used herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0110] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as an ester oil or a fatty alcohol; or a mixture thereof.
[0111] The oil can be a vegetable oil or a synthetic oil.
[0112] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0113] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, isostearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and ara-chidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0115] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, isodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0116] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
[0117] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0118] Examples of ester oils also include triglycerides, for example, caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) (or caprylic / capric triglyceride), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0119] Preferably, the ester oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, propionate myristyl, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), tetraisostearate pentaerythrithyl, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0120] Examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as methylpolysiloxane, caprylyl methylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, do-decamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0121] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0122] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: i. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms; and ii. linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 106 m2 / s at 25°C.
[0123] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0124] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.
[0125] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0126] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from: • linear or branched, optionally cyclic, lower alkanes C6-C16. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, e.g., isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0127] Preferably, the hydrocarbon oils are selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum jelly, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0128] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one oil selected from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as methylpolysiloxane, caprylyl methyl-polysiloxane, and dimethylpolysiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, esters of saturated, linear or branched C6-Cio aliphatic monobasic acids and saturated, linear or branched C10-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 20, and mixtures thereof; more preferably chosen from dimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0129] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients
[0130] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more other ingredients usually used in the field in question.
[0131] For example, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise other ingredients selected from fillers in addition to hydrophobic silicas, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, and mixtures thereof.
[0132] It is a routine operation for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the other ingredients present in the compositions in accordance with the present invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the intended addition.
[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a. from 1% by weight to 5% by weight of silicone elastomer resin selected from vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl di-methicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone / vinyl trimethylsiloxysilicate crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof; b. from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight of silica silylate having an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g; and c. from 3% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one C2-C6 carboxylic acid ester of sucrose.
[0134] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.
[0135] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, these small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition which contain it in residual amounts but are not deliberately provided. Dosage form and use
[0136] The anhydrous composition of the present invention is suitable for use as a skin care and / or makeup product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of lipstick, and so on.
[0137] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.
[0138] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for / making up keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials.
[0139] In particular, the keratinous material is the skin, especially the lips. Examples
[0140] The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
[0141] The main raw materials used, trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 2. INCI name Trade name Supplier SUCROSE ACETATE ISO- BUTYRATE EASTMAN SUSTANE™ SAIB (SUCROSE ACETATE ISO-BUTYRATE) FOOD GRADE KOSHER EASTMAN CHEMICAL SILICA SILYLATE DOWSIL™ VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES DOW DIMETHICONE (and) DI- METHICONE / VINYLTRIMETHYL SILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER BELSIL® REG 1102 WACKER PARAFFIN (and) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (and) SYNTHETIC WAX / PARAFFIN (and) CERA MICROCRISTALLINA (and) SYNTHETIC WAX PARACERA™ 30540 PARAMELT HYDROGENATED POLY-ISOBUTENE PARLEAM® NOF CORPORATION POLYETHYLENE PERFORMALENE™ 500-L POLY ETHYLENE NUCERA SOLUTIONS DIMETHICONE BELSIL® DM 100 WACKER TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE BELSIL® TMS 803 WACKER DIMETHICONE (and) DIME-THICONOL CROSSPOLYMER DOWSIL™ EL-9241 DM SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND DOW
[0143] Inventive Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3
[0144] Lipsticks according to the present invention (El.) 1 to 3 and lipsticks com (EC) 1 to 3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 3 (contents are expressed as percentages by weight of each material, unless otherwise stated): INCI US El. 1 EC. 1 El. 2 EC. 2 EL 3 EC. 3 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 IRON OXIDES 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 OCTYLDODECYL NEO- PENTANOATE 7,08 7,08 7,08 7,08 7,08 11,58 STEARYL HEPTANOATE (and) STEARYL CAPRYLATE 4,06 4,06 4,06 4,06 4,06 4,06 PARAFFIN (and) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (and) SYNTHETIC WAX / PARAFFIN (and) CERA MICRO-CRISTALLINA (and) SYNTHETIC WAX 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 KAOLIN 1,25 1,25 1,25 1,25 1,25 1,25 SILICA 6,00 6,00 6,00 6,00 6,00 6,00 LAUROYL LYSINE 0,50 1,50 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 SILICA SILYLATE 1,00 0 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 HYDROGENATED POLY-ISOBUTENE Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 POLYETHYLENE 11,00 11,00 11,00 11,00 11,00 11,00 SUCROSE ACETATE ISO- BUTYRATE 4,50 4,50 4,50 4,50 4,50 0,00 DIMETHICONE 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 DIMETHICONE (and) DL METHICONE / VINYLTRIMETHY L-SILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER* 10,00 10,00 25,20 0 10,00 10,00 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 DIMETHICONE (and) DIME-THICONOL CROSSPOLYMER** 15.20 15.20 0.00 25.2 15.20 15.20,
[0146] DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYLTRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER*: -16% by weight of DIMETHICONE / VINYLTRIME-THYLSILO-XYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER in ~84% by weight of DL METHICONE.
[0147] DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER**: -16-17% by weight of DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER in -83 to 84% of DIMETHICONE.
[0148] The lipsticks of inventive examples 1 to 3 are compositions according to the present invention.
[0149] The lipstick of comparative example 1 does not comprise at least one hydrophobic silica.
[0150] The lipstick of Comparative Example 2 does not comprise at least one silicone elastomer resin.
[0151] The lipstick of comparative example 3 does not comprise at least one sugar ester chosen from C1-C30 monoesters and sugar polyesters.
[0152] Preparation procedure:
[0153] The detailed procedure for preparing the above lipsticks is as follows: i. mix all ingredients at 95-100°C with stirring to obtain a homogeneous mixture; ii. pour the homogeneous mixture into a lipstick mold at 98°C, leave the mixture in the mold at 25°C until solidified; and iii. unmold the lipsticks obtained from the lipstick mold.
[0154] Evaluation:
[0155] An evaluation of the hardness of the lipsticks, the matte effect, the color uniformity, the non-greasy and non-dry feeling delivered by the lipsticks was carried out.
[0156] Hardness was measured according to the method described above.
[0157] The matte effect was evaluated by 6 experts as follows.
[0158] First, the lipsticks of the inventive examples and the comparative examples were repeatedly applied, respectively, three times to the same area of the lips using the same strength; the area was illuminated with D65 light and the level of light reflection (shine) was checked after 5 minutes of application. Scores were then given as follows.
[0159] 4.1 to 5.0: low gloss;
[0160] 3.1 to 4.0: low to medium brightness;
[0161] 3: medium shine;
[0162] 2.0 to 2.9: medium to high brightness;
[0163] 1.0 to 1.9: high brightness.
[0164] Color uniformity was evaluated by 6 experts as follows.
[0165] First, the compositions according to the inventive examples and the comparative examples were repeatedly applied to the left side of the forearm using the same force to draw a 4 cm line; then the line was spread from the left side to the right side about 8 times to fill the 4 cm*4 cm area with the fingers. Then, the uniformity of the area (the presence or absence of aggregation or non-uniform color distribution) was observed.
[0166] Scores were then given as follows.
[0167] 4.1 to 5.0: very good;
[0168] 3.1 to 4.0: overall good;
[0169] 3: acceptable;
[0170] 2.0 to 2.9: slightly poor and unacceptable;
[0171] 1.0 to 1.9: poor, unacceptable.
[0172] The non-greasy feeling was evaluated by 6 experts by the following steps:
[0173] First, repeatedly apply the compositions according to the examples inventive and comparative examples, respectively, three times on the same area of the lips using the same force; wait 3 minutes and check the oily sensation of the lips.
[0174] Then, comments or scores were given as follows.
[0175] 4.1 to 5.0: very good, not greasy;
[0176] 3.1 to 4.0: slightly oily;
[0177] 3: slightly oily, acceptable;
[0178] 2.0 to 2.9: quite oily and unacceptable;
[0179] 1.0 to 1.9: very oily, unacceptable.
[0180] The non-dry sensation was evaluated by 6 experts by the following steps:
[0181] First, repeatedly apply the compositions according to the invention and the comparative examples, respectively, three times on the same area of the lips using the same force; wait 3 hours and check the hydration status of the lips.
[0182] Then, comments or scores were given as follows.
[0183] 4.1 to 5.0: very good;
[0184] 3.1 to 4.0: overall good;
[0185] 3: acceptable;
[0186] 2.0 to 2.9: slightly poor and unacceptable;
[0187] 1.0 to 1.9: poor, unacceptable.
[0188] The hardness, average scores on matte effect, color uniformity, non-greasy and non-dry feeling offered by the lipsticks of the inventive examples and comparative examples have been summarized in Table 4.
[0189] [Tables4] Attributes El. 1 EC. 1 El. 2 EC. 2 El. 3 EC. 3 Hardness (Nm1) 119.4 102.1 106.7 105.5 116.4 99.7 Matte effect 4.7 2.1 4.4 4.3 4.5 4.0 Color uniformity 4.3 4.1 4.4 2.3 4.2 3.3 Non-greasy feel 4.5 2.2 4.2 4.3 4.4 2.2 Non-dry feel 3.4 3.5 4.4 4.1 4.3 2.6
[0190] It can be seen that the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 demonstrated a good combination of suitable hardness, matte effect, color uniformity, non-greasy and non-dry feel upon application, while the compositions of comparative examples 1 to 3 are not good in terms of at least one of: hardness, matte effect, color uniformity, non-greasy feel and non-dry feel.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one silicone elastomer resin; b) at least one hydrophobic silica; and c) at least one sugar ester chosen from C1-C30 monoesters and sugar polyesters.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer resin comprises at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate group, preferably the silicone elastomer resin is selected from vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, vinyldimethicone / trimethylsiloxysilicate crosslinked polymer and mixtures thereof.
3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the hydrophobic silica is selected from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g and a volume average diameter ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 15 pm.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the sugar ester is chosen from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sugars, preferably chosen from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose, more preferably chosen from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising one or more pigments, preferably chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic pigments and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from RED 7, YELLOW 6, iron oxides, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.
6. A composition according to claim 5, wherein the pigment is present in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 14% by weight, preferably from 6% by weight to 13% by weight, more preferably from 6% by weight to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 6% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 6.5% by weight to 9% by weight, most preferably from 6.5% by weight to 8% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising one or more waxes, preferably selected from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, Cera Microcristallina, a C20-40 alkyl stearate and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising one or more oils, preferably chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof; more preferably chosen from organopo-lysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, hydrogenated polyisobutene, esters of saturated, linear or branched C 6-C 10 aliphatic monoacids and saturated, linear or branched C 10-C 20 aliphatic monoalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 20, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from dimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof;present in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.;
9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is anhydrous.
10. Non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous materials.
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