KERATINOUS MATERIAL SKINCARE COMPOSITION

Abstract

KERATINOUS MATERIAL CARE COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one ceramide-type compound; (ii) at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds; (iii) at least one double-chain nonionic surfactant; and (iv) at least one single-chain nonionic surfactant. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials, comprising the application of said composition to the skin. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: CARE COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The skin acts as a natural barrier between the internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injury, microorganisms and ultraviolet damage.

[0003] Ceramides are the main natural lipids in the stratum corneum, accounting for 50% of total intercellular lipids. When the concentration of ceramides is insufficient, the skin tends to become dry and sensitive. Topical application of ceramides can restore the skin barrier and retain moisture. However, ceramides have high crystallinity and are easily transformed into molecular crystals. Ceramides can be dispersed in water using a surfactant or the like, but it is difficult to sufficiently reduce their particle size (i.e., achieve greater transparency), and a high dosage of surfactant is required.

[0004] As a branch of nanocarrier technology, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) were developed more than 30 years ago. Compared with traditional nanocolloidal systems such as nanoemulsions and liposomes, SLNs were more stable due to their solidity at room temperature. SLNs are normally spherical with a diameter less than 500 nm (more preferably <100 nm). The structure of SLNs is a hydrophobic solid lipid core surrounded by a surfactant layer. The intrinsic properties of SLNs are deeper skin penetration, low toxicity, and high bioavailability.

[0005] Compositions containing solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) are emerging in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, particularly for the encapsulation of hydrophobic cosmetic active ingredients in the lipid core. Some cosmetic active ingredients such as ceramides are insoluble in water. Dissolving them directly in an oil can cause a greasy feeling. Thanks to SLNs, they can be easily introduced into water-based formulas, which allows to obtain homogeneous suspensions.

[0006] Currently, typical methods for preparing SLNs include high-speed, high-pressure homogenization, high-frequency sonication, membrane emulsification, requiring high mechanical energy input, having high cost and being difficult to achieve at industrial level.

[0007] Thus, there is still a need to develop solid lipid nanoparticles comprising ceramides, which can be easily prepared. Summary of the invention

[0008] An object of the present application is to provide solid lipid nanoparticles comprising ceramides, which can be easily prepared.

[0009] Another object of the present application is to provide a formulation for the preparation of solid lipid nanoparticles comprising ceramides, which can be easily transformed into solid lipid nanoparticles.

[0010] The inventors have now discovered that the above objects can be obtained by the present invention.

[0011] Consequently, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for caring for keratinous materials, comprising:

[0012] (i) at least one ceramide-type compound;

[0013] (ii) at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds;

[0014] (iii) at least one double-chain non-ionic surfactant; and

[0015] (iv) at least one single-chain non-ionic surfactant.

[0016] In some embodiments, the composition is a homogeneous mixture. Solid lipid nanoparticles can be easily formed from the homogeneous mixture.

[0017] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of solid lipid nanoparticles. The solid lipid nanoparticles can be readily formed.

[0018] In certain embodiments, the composition is in the form of a suspension of solid lipid nanoparticles in an aqueous phase.

[0019] The suspension of the present invention can be used for skin care.

[0020] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0021] Other advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0022] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0023] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "ranging from... to...".

[0024] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0025] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all of the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0026] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing an amount of ingredients and the like that are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be changed depending on the desired objective, if necessary.

[0027] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, and hair. Facial skin is particularly considered according to the present invention.

[0028] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0029] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0030] (i) at least one ceramide-type compound;

[0031] (ii) at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds;

[0032] (iii) at least one double-chain non-ionic surfactant; and

[0033] (iv) at least one single-chain non-ionic surfactant. Ceramide-type compounds

[0034] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one ceramide-type compound.

[0035] According to the present invention, the expression "ceramide-type compound" is intended to denote natural and / or synthetic ceramides and / or glycoceramides and / or pseudoceramides and / or neoceramides.

[0036] Ceramide-type compounds are disclosed, for example, in applications patent DE 4424530, DE 4424533, DE 4402929, DE 4420736, WO 95 / 23807, WO 94 / 07844, EP-A-0 646 572, WO 95 / 16665, FR-2 673 179, EP-A-0 227 994, WO 94 / 07844, WO 94 / 24097 and WO 94 / 10131, the teachings of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0037] The ceramide-type compounds which can be used according to the present invention preferably correspond to the general formula (I): r. *3 (I) O |3 R—C—N—CH-CH—O—R, ■ II r4 r =

[0038] in which:

[0039] - Ri denotes:

[0040] - either a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C50 hydrocarbon radical, of preferably C5-C50, this hydrocarbon radical being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups optionally esterified by an acid R7COOH, R7 being an optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C35 hydrocarbon radical, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls of the radical R7 being optionally esterified by an optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C35 fatty acid;

[0041] - either a radical R"-(NR-CO)-R', in which R denotes hydrogen or a radical hy mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably monohydroxylated, C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical, R' and R" are each independently hydrocarbon radicals, the sum of whose carbon atoms is between 9 and 30, R' being a divalent radical;

[0042] - either a radical R8-O-CO-(CH2)P, in which R8 denotes a hydrocarbon radical in Ci-C2o and p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12;

[0043] - R2 is chosen from hydrogen, a saccharide-type radical, in particular a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m or sulfogalactosyl radical, a sulfate or phosphate residue, a phosphorylethylamine radical and a phosphorylethylammonium radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0044] - R3 denotes hydrogen or a hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical and saturated or unsaturated in CrC33, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being optionally esterified by an inorganic acid or an acid R7COOH, R7 having the same meanings as above, and the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being optionally etherified by a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m, sulfogalactosyl, phosphoryl-ethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, n and m having the same meanings as above, R3 being optionally substituted by one or more alkyl radicals in C1-C10; preferably, R3 denotes a radical a-hydroxyalkyl in C15-C26, the group hydroxylated being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 hydroxy acid;

[0045] - R4 denotes hydrogen, a methyl or ethyl radical, a hydrocarbon radical fa optionally hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched in C3-C50 or a radical -CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-R6, in which R6 denotes a Cio -C26 hydrocarbon radical, or a radical R8-O-CO-(CH2)P, in which R8 denotes a CrC2o hydrocarbon radical and p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12;

[0046] - R5 denotes hydrogen or an optionally mono- or poly- hydrocarbon radical hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched in CrC3o, the hydroxyl or the hydroxyls being optionally etherified by a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m, sulfo-galactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0047] provided that when R3 and R5 denote hydrogen or when R3 denotes hydrogen and R5 denotes methyl, then R4 does not denote hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical.

[0048] Preference is given, among the compounds of formula (I), to ceramides and / or glycoceramides with the structure described by Downing in Journal of Lipid Research, Vol. 35, 2060-2068, 1994, or those disclosed in French patent application FR-2 673 179, the teachings of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0049] The ceramide-type compounds which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds of formula (I) for which R 1 denotes an optionally hydroxylated and saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 14 -C 22 fatty acids; R 3 denotes an optionally hydroxylated and linear C 18 -C 22 radical and preferably a C 13 -C 15 radical, preferably denotes an α-hydroxycetyl radical, and R 2 , R 4 and R 5 denote hydrogen.

[0050] Preferably, the ceramide-type compound is selected from 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-oc-tadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-alpha-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy)-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Most preferably, the ceramide may be chosen from N-alpha-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine (also called ceramide AP), sold, for example, under the name DS-CERAMIDE AP by Solus Advanced Materials, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine (also known as ceramide NP), sold, for example, under the name DS-CERAMIDE Y3S by Solus Advanced Materials Co., Ltd., and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Advantageously, the ceramide-type compound is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 0.3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Solid lipids

[0053] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds.

[0054] As used herein, "solid lipid" means that the lipid is solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 X105Pa). The melting point is above 25°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0055] Solid lipids other than ceramide-type compounds may be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, mono-, di- or triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

[0056] Advantageously, the solid fatty acids comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a carboxyl group, preferably the solid fatty acid is chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty acid is chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Advantageously, the solid fatty alcohols comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a hydroxyl group, preferably the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, ara-chidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Advantageously, the waxes are waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, lacquer wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Advantageously, the mono-, di- or triglycerides are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid including 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably, the mono-, di- or triglyceride is chosen from mono-, di- or triglycerides of one or more of lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

[0060] Preferably, the solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds is selected from candelilla wax, beeswax, shea butter, glyceryl mono- / di- / tri-stearate and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Advantageously, the solid lipid other than the ceramide-type compounds is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Advantageously, the weight ratio between the solid lipid other than the ceramide-type compounds and the ceramide-type compound is from 20 to 5000, preferably from 20 to 3000, more preferably from 20 to 2000, even more preferably from 20 to 1000, most preferably from 30 to 500. Double-chain non-ionic surfactants

[0063] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one double-chain non-ionic surfactant.

[0064] The double-chain non-ionic surfactant is different from the solid lipids mentioned above.

[0065] Preferably, the double-chain non-ionic surfactant is chosen from diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0066] As examples of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22 carbon atoms, mention may be made of lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

[0067] More preferably, the double-chain non-ionic surfactant is chosen from PG2 dicaprate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 distearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 dioleate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 distearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 dioleate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 distearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 dioleate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 distearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 dioleate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 distearate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 dicaprate, PG7 dicaprylate, PG7 dilaurate, PG7 dimyristate, PG7 distearate, PG7 dioleate, PG8 dicaprate, PG8 dicaprylate, PG8 dilaurate, PG8 dimyristate, PG8 distearate, PG8 dioleate, PG8 dicaprate, PG9 dicaprylate, PG9 dilaurate, PG9 dimyristate, PG9 distearate, PG9 dioleate, PG9, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 distearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 dioleate and mixtures thereof.

[0068] More preferably still, the double-chain non-ionic surfactant is chosen from polyglyceryl dioleate, polyglyceryl distearate and mixtures thereof.

[0069] The double-chain non-ionic surfactant may be derived from a renewable source.

[0070] Advantageously, the double-chain non-ionic surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Single-chain nonionic surfactants

[0071] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one single-chain non-ionic surfactant.

[0072] The single-chain non-ionic surfactant is different from the solid lipids mentioned above.

[0073] Preferably, the single-chain non-ionic surfactant is selected from monoesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

[0074] More preferably, the single-chain non-ionic surfactant is chosen from PG2 caprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 oleate, PG3 caprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 oleate, PG4 caprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 oleate, PG5 caprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 oleate, PG6 caprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 oleate, PG7 caprate, PG7 caprylate, PG7 laurate, PG7 myristate, PG7 stearate, PG7 isostearate, PG7 oleate, PG8 caprate, PG8 caprylate, PG8 laurate,PG8 myristate, PG8 stearate, PG8 isostearate, oleate, PG8 caprate, PG9 caprylate, PG9 laurate, PG9 myristate, PG9 stearate, PG9 isostearate, PG9 oleate, PG10 caprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 oleate and mixtures thereof.

[0075] The single-chain non-ionic surfactant may be derived from a renewable source.

[0076] More preferably still, the single-chain non-ionic surfactant is chosen from polyglyceryl laurate, polyglyceryl myristate, polyglyceryl stearate and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Advantageously, the single-chain non-ionic surfactant is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Advantageously, the ratio between the total weight of the double-chain non-ionic surfactant and the single-chain non-ionic surfactant and the weight of the solid lipid is from 0.2 to 20, preferably from 0.3 to 15, more preferably from 0.4 to 10, most preferably from 0.5 to 5. Aqueous phase

[0079] The composition of the present invention may comprise a continuous aqueous phase.

[0080] Said aqueous phase comprises water.

[0081] Advantageously, said aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight to 99% by weight, and more preferably from 50% by weight to 99% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0082] The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the ceramide-type compound.

[0083] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and its derivatives; sunscreens; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; agents acting on microcirculation, etc.

[0084] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0085] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives and bactericides, thickeners, pH adjusters, fillers and mixtures thereof.

[0086] A person skilled in the art can choose the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so that it does not have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0087] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0088] (i) from 0.05% by weight to 0.25% by weight of a compound selected from N- alpha-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine and mixtures thereof;

[0089] (ii) from 3% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one solid lipid chosen from candelilla wax, beeswax, shea butter, glyceryl mono- / di- / tri-stearate and mixtures thereof;

[0090] (iii) from 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one double-chain non-ionic surfactant chosen from polyglyceryl dioleate, polyglyceryl distearate and mixtures thereof; and

[0091] (iv) from 1% by weight to 6% of at least one single-chain non-ionic surfactant chosen from polyglyceryl laurate, polyglyceryl myristate, polyglyceryl stearate and mixtures thereof. Dosage form and process

[0092] In some embodiments, the composition is a homogeneous mixture, from which solid lipid nanoparticles can be readily formed by spontaneous emulsification without involving vigorous mechanical energy input, e.g., high speed, high pressure homogenization, sonication, or membrane emulsification.

[0093] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of solid lipid nanoparticles. The solid lipid nanoparticles can be readily formed and macroscopic crystallization of ceramide-type compounds can be effectively suppressed.

[0094] In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a suspension of solid lipid nanoparticles in an aqueous phase. The suspension can be readily formed and macroscopic crystallization of the type compounds ceramide can be effectively removed.

[0095] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a translucent or semi-translucent suspension of solid lipid nanoparticles in aqueous phase.

[0096] When the nanoparticle particle size is 110 to 150 nm, then the composition is considered to be semi-translucent; and when the nanoparticle particle size is less than 110 nm, then the composition is considered to be translucent. When the nanoparticle particle size is greater than 500 nm, then the composition is considered to be creamy.

[0097] The composition of the present invention may take the form of a lotion, a cream, a serum, etc.

[0098] The composition of the present invention can be used as shampoos, hair coloring products, and hair conditioners, skin care products, etc.

[0099] Thus, the composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials.

[0100] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials. EXAMPLES

[0101] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being of a limiting nature.

[0102] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0103] [Tableauxl] INCI name Trade name Supplier Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax Light Special Candelilla REAL® Multiceras SA de CV Polyglyceryl dioleate-10 (and) tocopherol Sunsoft Q-172Y-C(MB) Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. Polyglyceryl-10 laurate DERMOFEEL G 10 L MB Evonik Operations GmbH Ceramide NP DS-CERAMIDE Y3S Solus Advanced Materials Co., Ltd. Ceramide AP DS-CERAMIDE AP Solus Advanced Materials

[0104] Inventive Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

[0105] The compositions of inventive examples (El.) 1 to 5 and comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 3 in dispersion form were prepared according to the quantities given in Table 2. The quantity of each component is given in % by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0106] [Tables2] Ingredients El. 1 EL 2 El. 3 EL 4 EL 5 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 - Polyglycer yl dioleate-10 (and) to-copherol 2 2 2 2 2 2 - 2 Polyglycer yl-10 laurate 3 3 3 3 3 - 3 3 Ceramide NP 0.1 0.15 - - 0.1 0.15 0.15 0.15 Ceramide AP - - 0.1 0.15 0.05 - - - Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0107] Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (and) tocopherol comprises 99.95% by weight of polyglyceryl-10 dioleate and 0.05% by weight of tocopherol.

[0108] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 5 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0109] The composition of Comparative Example 1 does not comprise at least one single-chain non-ionic surfactant.

[0110] The composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise at least one double-chain non-ionic surfactant.

[0111] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not comprise at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds.

[0112] Preparation process:

[0113] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking as an example the composition of inventive example 1:

[0114] 1) mixture of solid lipids (Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax), surfactants (polyglyceryl-10 dioleate (and) tocopherol, polyglyceryl-10 laurate) and ceramide (ceramide NP) at a temperature of 90 ❖C until a homogeneous oily phase is obtained;

[0115] 2) heating the water to a temperature of 90 ❖C;

[0116] 3) addition of the oily phase obtained in step 1) in water with stirring for about 10 minutes to get a suspension;

[0117] 4) rapid cooling of the suspension obtained to room temperature. Assessment

[0118] Each suspension of Inventive Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 was evaluated in terms of particle size and stability.

[0119] The particle sizes in the suspensions of Inventive Examples (EI.) 1-5 and Comparative Examples (CE.) 1-3 were determined using Brookhaven Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) equipment. Each sample was tested in triplicate. The particle sizes of fresh samples and samples stored for 2 months at 4°C, room temperature (20-25°C) and 45°C, respectively, were measured to monitor stability.

[0120] The main experimental parameters for the DLS experiments were listed in Table 3.

[0121] [Tables3] Parameters Set Value Instrument Parameters Angle 90 degrees Wavelength 659 nm Cell Type Disposable Polystyrene Measurement Parameters Temperature 25 degrees C Set Time 100 seconds Equilibrium Time 120 seconds Dust Threshold 20 to 30 Sample Parameters Liquid Water Viscosity 1 cP Refractive Index (RI) 1.457 (IR value for candelilla wax)

[0122] Table 4 shows the effective diameter and polydispersity index (PDI) of each suspension of inventive examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3 after 2 months of storage.

[0123] [Tables4] EL 1 EL 2 EL 3 El. 4 EL 5 EC. 1 to 3 4 °C Effective diameter (nm) 103 162 96 98 103 Not measurable polydispersity index 0.20 0.23 0.32 0.32 0.31 Not measurable TA Effective diameter (nm) 102 114 96 106 100 Not measurable polydispersity index 0.21 0.31 0.28 0.29 0.3 Not measurable 45 °C Effective diameter (nm) 109 217 108 127 150 Not measurable polydispersity index 0.24 0.21 0.29 0.3 0.29 Not measurable

[0124] Effective diameter: average diameter.

[0125] The term "unmeasurable" means that the samples are too turbid / cloudy to be measured due to too many large particles.

[0126] The smaller the effective diameter, the more transparent the suspension. When the effective diameter is less than 110 nm, the appearance of the suspension is translucent. When the effective diameter is between 110 nm and 500 nm, the appearance of the suspension is semi-translucent.

[0127] The smaller the PDI, the better the stability.

[0128] If the effective diameter of a sample stored for a period of time was less than 500 nm without formation of large aggregates on the container wall, then the sample was considered "stable", otherwise the sample was considered "unstable".

[0129] Table 5 shows the stability of each suspension of inventive examples 1 to 5.

[0130] [Tables5] Properties El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 EL 4 EI.5 Appearance at TO / after storage Translucent / semi-translucent Semi-transparent / semi-translucent Translucent / semi-translucent Translucent Translucent Stability 4 °C Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable TA Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable 45 °C Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable

[0131] Table 6 shows the stability of each suspension of Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

[0132] [Tableauxô] Properties EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 Appearance at TO / after storage Creamy / phase separation Creamy / phase separation Creamy / phase separation Stability 4 °C Unstable Unstable Unstable TA Unstable Unstable Unstable 45 °C Unstable Unstable Unstable

[0133] It can be seen from Tables 4 to 6 that the suspensions of inventive examples 1 to 5 have a translucent or semi-translucent appearance and are stable for at least 2 months, while the suspensions of comparative examples 1 to 3 are not stable.

Claims

1.

2. Claims Composition, preferably for the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one ceramide-type compound; (ii) at least one solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds; (iii) at least one double-chain non-ionic surfactant; and (iv) at least one single-chain non-ionic surfactant. Composition according to claim 1, in which the ceramide-type compound corresponds to the general formula (I): _ R, O |3 R—C—N—CH-ÇH—O—R2 - R4 Rs in which: - Ri means: - either a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C50, preferably C5-C50, hydrocarbon radical, this hydrocarbon radical being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups optionally esterified by an acid R7COOH, R7 being an optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C35 hydrocarbon radical, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls of the radical R7 being optionally esterified by an optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C35 fatty acid; - either a radical R"-(NR-CO)-R', in which R denotes a hydrogen atom or a mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably monohydroxylated, C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical, R' and R" are each independently hydrocarbon radicals, the sum of the carbon atoms of which is between 9 and 30, R' being a divalent radical; - either a radical R8-O-CO-(CH2)P, in which R8 denotes a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical and p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12; - R2 is chosen from hydrogen, a saccharide-type radical, in particular a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m or sulfogalactosyl radical, a sulfate or phosphate residue, a phosphorylethylamine radical and a phosphorylethylammonium radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

3. - R3 denotes hydrogen or a hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated and saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical of CrC33, optionally the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being esterified by an inorganic acid or an acid R7COOH, R7 having the same meanings as above, and optionally the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being etherified by a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m, sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, n and m having the same meanings as above, optionally R3 being substituted by one or more CrCi4 alkyl radicals; preferably, R3 denotes a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 hydroxyacid; - R4 denotes hydrogen, a methyl or ethyl radical, an optionally hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C3-C50 hydrocarbon radical or a radical -CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-R6, in which R6 denotes a C10-C26 hydrocarbon radical, or a radical R8-O-CO-(CH 2)p, in which R8 denotes a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical and p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12; - R5 denotes hydrogen or an optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radical, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being optionally etherified by a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m, sulfogalactosyl, phosphoryl-ethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical; provided that, when R3 and R5 denote hydrogen or when R3 denotes hydrogen and R5 denotes methyl, then R4 does not denote hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the ceramide compound is selected from 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N- alpha-hy droxy s téaroy 1-phy to sphingo sine, N -stearoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N- docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof; preferably, the ceramide-type compound is chosen from N-alpha-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine, N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the solid lipid other than ceramide-type compounds is selected from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, mono-, di- or triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the solid fatty acids comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a carboxyl group, preferably the solid fatty acid is chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty acid is chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof;the solid fatty alcohols comprise 12 to 24 carbons with a hydroxyl group, preferably the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferably the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof; the waxes are waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures, preferably the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, lacquer wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax;Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof; the mono-, di- or triglycerides are chosen from mono-, di- or triglycerides of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably, the mono-, di- or triglyceride is chosen from mono-, di- or triglycerides of one or more of lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid; ristic.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the double-chain non-ionic surfactant is selected from diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the single-chain non-ionic surfactant is selected from diesters of one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids including 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and polyglycerin with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol units.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 0.05% by weight to 0.25% by weight of a compound selected from N-alpha-hydroxystearoyl-phytosphingosine, N-stearoyl phytos-phingosine and mixtures thereof; (ii) from 3% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one solid lipid selected from candelilla wax, beeswax, shea butter, glyceryl mono- / di- / tri-stearate and mixtures thereof; (iii) from 1% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one double-chain non-ionic surfactant selected from polyglyceryl dioleate, polyglyceryl distearate and mixtures thereof; and (iv) from 1% by weight to 6% of at least one single-chain non-ionic surfactant selected from polyglyceryl laurate, polyglyceryl myristate, polyglyceryl stearate and mixtures thereof.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising a continuous aqueous phase.

10. Non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous materials.