keratinous material treatment composition

Abstract

KERATINOUS MATERIAL TREATMENT COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for treating keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract, and mixtures thereof, b) at least two nonionic surfactants, and c) at least one nonionic polymer. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: composition for treating keratinous material Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratinous material and in particular relates to a skin care composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Cosmetic active ingredients are generally applied to the skin using compositions in which they have been incorporated. These compositions are usually in the form of creams, milks or gels which are spread on the skin while massaging with the fingertips in order to promote the penetration of the composition, and, in particular, the penetration of the active ingredients into the skin.

[0003] With the increasing need for cosmetic functions, consumers are seeking highly potent skin care products. As known in the art, peptides and plant extracts such as vitex agnus-castus extract can improve the efficacy of cosmetic products, including anti-aging, whitening, soothing and anti-oxidation, etc. Therefore, it is desirable to incorporate as high an amount as possible of peptides and / or plant extracts such as vitex agnus-castus extract into cosmetic products, especially skin care products.

[0004] Currently, most of the actives, e.g., peptides and vitex agnus-castus extract, are included in commercial formulations as raw materials in solution or emulsion form, and such commercial formulations often further comprise simultaneously a very high amount, e.g., more than 90% by weight, of solvents, especially water and polyols, and a relatively smaller amount of at least one of surfactants, dispersing agents, preservatives and thickeners, e.g., less than 10% by weight in total. For some of the commercial formulations, the amount of the peptides or vitex agnus-castus extract is often about 1.5% by weight or less than 1% by weight, or even as low as about 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulations.In this way, when preparing cosmetic products comprising peptides and / or vitex agnus-castus extract, especially cosmetic products comprising a relatively high amount of peptides and / or vitex agnus-castus extract, a relatively high amount of formulations as raw materials must be added into the cosmetic products, which makes it very difficult to achieve a desired stability, look and / or feel for . the final product, and some formulas cannot even be emulsified sufficiently during preparation and therefore do not result in a desirable emulsified product.

[0005] There is therefore a need for a cosmetic product, in particular in the form of an H / W cream, which may comprise a peptide and / or a vitex agnus-castus extract, in particular a relatively higher amount of the peptide and / or vitex agnus-castus extract, and exhibit sufficient emulsification and desirable stability even over a long period and a wide range of storage or use temperatures, and may also provide a good feeling to customers. Summary of the invention

[0006] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.

[0007] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for treating keratinous material, comprising:

[0008] a) at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and their mixtures,

[0009] b) at least two non-ionic surfactants, and

[0010] c) at least one non-ionic polymer.

[0011] The composition according to the present invention can provide desired stability even over a long period of time and a wide temperature range, and also a good feel for the keratinous material.

[0012] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for treating keratinous material, in particular the skin, comprising:

[0013] a) applying the composition according to the first aspect to the keratinous material, and optionally

[0014] b) massaging the keratinous material for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.

[0015] According to a third aspect, the present invention provides a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of

[0016] a) at least two non-ionic surfactants, and

[0017] b) at least one non-ionic polymer.

[0018] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the detailed description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0019] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “between ...and...” and “from ... to...”

[0020] The articles "a" and "an", as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature, unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0021] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all of the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as "consisting essentially of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "consisting essentially of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and novel features is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and novel features may be included in the embodiment.

[0022] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing an amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which may be modified depending on the desired performance obtained as required. The term "about" denoting a certain value is intended to denote a range within ± 5% of the value, for example: within ± 3%, ± 2%, ± 1% and ± 0.5% of the value.

[0023] As used herein, the term "keratinous material(s)" refers to the skin and lips. By "skin" is included all skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, keratinous material refers to skin. Assets

[0024] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and their mixtures. Peptide

[0025] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one peptide. In certain embodiments, the composition comprises a mixture of peptides. Hereinafter, the term "peptide mixture" refers to a mixture of at least two peptides. Preferably, the peptide is selected from di-peptides, tri-peptides, tetra-peptides, penta-peptides, hexa-peptides, octa-peptides, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, one or more amino acids in each peptide are a derivative of a naturally occurring amino acid.

[0026] In some embodiments, the peptide is selected from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, carnosines and derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0027] According to the present invention, examples of peptide include, but are not limited to, D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives, including anserine and whale; cetyl ester of acetyl dipeptide-1, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-2, acetyl tetrapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, acetyl tetrapeptide-7, acetyl tetrapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, acetyl octapeptide-3 or mixtures thereof.

[0028] According to the present invention, the preferred peptides are those chosen from cetyl ester of acetyl dipeptide-1, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, and in particular, cetyl ester of acetyl dipeptide-1. Examples of peptide sources include, but are not limited to, ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER under the name Idealift available from SEDERMA (CRODA), ACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-9 under the name Dermican available from BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION, ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8 under the name Argireline available from LIPOTEC and PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1 (and) PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7 under the name Maxtrixyl 3000 available from SEDERMA (CRODA).

[0029] Advantageously, the peptide is present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 0.15% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.1% by weight and more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Vitex agnus-castus extract

[0030] A particularly preferable example of vitex agnus-castus extract is that sold under the name DENSORPHINE by the company MIBELLE AG BIOCHEMISTRY.

[0031] Advantageously, the Vitex agnus-castus extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0002% by weight to 0.3% by weight and more preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactant

[0032] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least two non-surfactants ionic.

[0033] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from:

[0034] - mono- and polyglyceryl esters of one or more fatty acids or their derivatives ethoxylated;

[0035] - polyol esters with one or more saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids;

[0036] - sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acid(s) and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives;

[0037] - esters of fatty acid(s) and glucose or alkylglucose or their derivatives ethoxylated;

[0038] - sucrose esters;

[0039] - C14-C24 fatty alcohols;

[0040] - polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as car- carboxylic Laureth-5;

[0041] - polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as Laureth-9;

[0042] - a polyoxyalkylenated derivative of monoglyceryl ester of a fatty acid such as PEG- 20 glyceryl triisostearate,

[0043] - sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate;

[0044] - polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters; and

[0045] - their mixtures.

[0046] As polyglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s), mention may be made of the product containing from 2 to 10 glycerol units, such as polyglyceryl monolaurate, oleate, myristate, caprylate or stearate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dilaurate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dimyristate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl trimyristate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl trioleate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and polyglyceryl tricaprylate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units. with 10 glycerol units.

[0047] Polyglyceryl esters include polyglyceryl esters of saturated, unsaturated, and branched C16-C22 fatty acid(s), such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diistearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, or mixtures thereof.

[0048] Monoglyceryl esters include, but are not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated, and branched chain fatty acid(s) such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, or mixtures thereof.

[0049] As monoglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s), mention may be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate or mixtures thereof, or as their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, mention may be made of the mono-, di- or triester of fatty acid(s) with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acid(s) with a polyalkylene glycol ether), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, tristearate and / or triisostearate). Preferably, the polyoxyalkylene derivative of monoglyceryl ester of fatty acid(s) comprises from 10 to 40 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

[0050] The non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from polyol esters with one or more fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200 or more preferably, from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as monoglyceryl esters or polyglyceryl esters of C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid(s) and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably from 10 to 200 or more preferably, from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acid(s), preferably C12-C22 or their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably from 10 to 200 or more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units;sugar esters (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and / or alkylglycose) of C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid(s) or their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, or more preferably, from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty alcohol(s); or mixtures thereof.;

[0051] Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Croda, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0052] The sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acid(s) and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives may be chosen from sorbitan laurate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and alkoxylated sorbitan fatty acid(s) esters containing, for example, from 20 to 100 EO, such as sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), marketed by the company ICI under the name Span 40 or sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) marketed by the company ICI under the name Tween 65, poly- oxyethylene trioleate sorbitan (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.

[0053] As esters of fatty acid(s) and glucose or alkylglucose, mention may be made of glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside, diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), mixed ester of methylglucoside and mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxy stearate), ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose isostearate), ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquiisostearate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquistearate) and, in particular,the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL and their mixtures.,

[0054] As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acid(s) and glucose or alkylglucose, it is possible to cite, for example, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acid(s) and methylglucose and, in particular, the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT or mixtures thereof.

[0055] Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned are sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

[0056] As C14-C24 fatty alcohols, mention may be made of oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, li-gnoceryl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Preferably, the polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is a polyethylene glycol ester comprising from 1 to 200 oxyethylene groups and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably, the polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is chosen from polyethylene glycol 2 EO monostearate or polyethylene glycol 100 monostearate (PEG-100 stearate).

[0058] According to the present invention, the non-ionic surfactants are preferably chosen from polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, monoglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s) and mixtures thereof.

[0059] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from mixtures of at least one polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester and at least one glyceryl monoester of fatty acid(s), in particular a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.

[0060] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic polymer

[0061] According to the present invention, the composition comprises at least one non-ionic polymer.

[0062] Preferably, the non-ionic polymer is chosen from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having the chemical formula (I) below:

[0063] H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH (I)

[0064] wherein each of a and a' independently ranges from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100.

[0065] Advantageously, the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide of formula (I) corresponds to a triblock polycondensate of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol.

[0066] According to some embodiments, in the chemical structure (I) described above, each of a and a' independently ranges from 10 to 130, and b ranges from 20 to 80. According to some embodiments, each of a and a' independently ranges from 50 to 130, and b ranges from 30 to 80 and preferably, each of a and a' independently ranges from 80 to 130, and b ranges from 40 to 80. According to a particular embodiment, a and a' are the same.

[0067] The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which is useful in the composition of the invention preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 250 to 19000, more preferably ranging from 1200 to 15000, in particular ranging from 1500 to 10000 and even more preferably ranging from 1500 to 5000.

[0068] Advantageously, said polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide has a cloud point, at 10 g / l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20°C and preferably greater than or equal to 60°C. The cloud point is measured according to the ISO 1065 standard.

[0069] As polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of triblock polycondensates of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol sold under the name Synperonic, for example Synperonic® PE / F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), Synperonic® PE / F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), "Synperonic PE / L44" (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), "SynperoniC PE / L42" (INCI name: Poloxamer 122), "Synperonic PE / F127" (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), "Synperonic PE / F88" (INCI name: Poloxamer 238) or "Synperonic PE / L64" (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), "Synperonic PE / F88" (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), "Synperonic PE / F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) from Croda, or Lutrol® F68 (INCI name: Poloxamer 188) from BASF.

[0070] Preferably, the non-ionic polymer according to the present invention is chosen from poloxamers, and in particular Synperonic® PE / F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338).

[0071] Advantageously, the non-ionic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight and more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactant

[0072] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one anionic surfactant.

[0073] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl phosphate salts.

[0074] In some embodiments, the alkyl phosphate salt is selected from dialkyl phosphate salts, monoalkyl phosphate salts, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the alkyl phosphate salt is a monoalkyl phosphate salt.

[0075] As used herein, the term "monoalkyl" means that the phosphate unit is linked to a single alkyl chain, and the term "dialkyl" means that the phosphate unit is linked to two alkyl chains.

[0076] In some embodiments, the monoalkyl phosphate salt has the following formula (II): o R ( Q__1 ____[|____ s [ ' ' Jn । OX

[0077] (II)

[0078] in which:

[0079] ^represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkylene comprising from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and more preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0080] A represents an alkylene group comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms;

[0081] n represents an integer ranging from 0 to 20, preferably n is 0;

[0082] X represents alkali metals, such as potassium, lithium and sodium.

[0083] Preferably, the dialkyl phosphate salt is selected from dicetyl phosphate salts, such as potassium dicetyl phosphate and dimyristyl phosphate salts.

[0084] Preferably, the monoalkyl phosphate salt is chosen from potassium lauryl phosphate and potassium cetyl phosphate, marketed for example under the trade names Amphisol® K (Roche), Amphisol® A (Roche), Arlatone® MAP (Uniqema), Crodafos® MCA (Croda) and Amphisol® K (DSM Nu-tritional Products).

[0085] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight and more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oil

[0086] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one oil.

[0087] Hereinafter, the term “oil” designates a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0088] As oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. This / these oil(s) can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0089] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones or the like; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers; or a mixture thereof.

[0090] The oil can be oils of vegetable or animal origin and synthetic oils.

[0091] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, apricot kernel oil and mixtures thereof.

[0092] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0093] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] The ether hydrocarbon-based oil, also known as ether oil, may be volatile or non-volatile and is preferably non-volatile.

[0095] An ether hydrocarbon-based oil is an oil of formula RiOR2 in which Ri and R2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-C18 alkyl group and most preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable that Ri and R2 are the same.

[0096] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0097] In certain embodiments, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydial-kylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0098] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which may be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0099] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0100] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0101] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecame-ethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the di-methylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type may also be mentioned, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 marketed by Union Carbide, of formula: pD—D'-------------------------------D'-O'p CH, CH. with -81-0- and with DU - SH O — 0¾

[0102] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0103] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 106 m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0104] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0105] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation:

[0106] - Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0107] - oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

[0108] - oils from the 200 range of the Dow Corning company, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm2 / s;

[0109] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0110] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

[0111] Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:

[0112] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;

[0113] - oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

[0114] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0115] - silicones from the Bayer PK range, such as the PK20 product;

[0116] - certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0117] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain poly-ethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and the Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from the company Union Carbide.

[0118] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

[0119] - linear or branched, optionally cyclic, lower alkanes, C6-Ci6; and

[0120] - linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0121] According to the present invention, the oil is preferably chosen from oils vegetable oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the oil is chosen from apricot kernel oil, dimethicone and a mixture thereof.

[0122] Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Aqueous solvent

[0123] The compositions of the present invention may comprise at least one aqueous solvent.

[0124] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C8 polyols, or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0125] The term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols include glycols, in particular butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

[0126] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present application comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol chosen from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin and polyethylene glycols.

[0127] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises both water and at least one C2-C8 polyol, preferably butylene glycol and / or glycerol (namely glycerin).

[0128] Advantageously, the C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 25% by weight and more preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] Advantageously, the water is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40% to 75% by weight and more preferably from 45% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0130] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those ordinarily used in skin care products.

[0131] The composition according to the present invention may comprise any of the following additives: dispersing agents; pH correcting agents; preservatives; antibacterial agents; perfumes; thickeners; chelating agents and other surfactants than those defined above.

[0132] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients. Combination

[0133] The present invention provides a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of

[0134] a) at least two non-ionic surfactants, and

[0135] b) at least one non-ionic polymer,

[0136] wherein the types of the nonionic active surfactant and the nonionic polymer are defined above.

[0137] In certain embodiments, the peptide is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 0.1% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] In certain embodiments, the vitex agnus-castus extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.0002% by weight to 0.3% by weight, preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] In certain embodiments, said composition is in the form of a cream, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) cream.

[0140] According to the present invention, the peptide and the vitex agnus-castus extract, if present, preferably come from commercial formulations which are in solution or emulsion form and comprise an amount of 90% by weight or more of at least one aqueous solvent including water and polyols, and optionally an amount of 10% by weight or less of at least one of thickeners, pH correcting agents, dispersing agents, preservatives and other surfactants than those defined above, relative to the total weight of the formulations.

[0141] In some embodiments, said commercial formulations comprise an amount of 93% by weight or more, 95% by weight or more, 97% by weight or more, or 99% by weight or more of at least one aqueous solvent including water and polyols, based on the total weight of the commercial formulations, wherein the polyol is preferably selected from butylene glycol and glycerin.

[0142] In some embodiments, said commercial formulations comprise an amount of 8% by weight or less, 5% by weight or less, 3% by weight or less, or 1% by weight or less of at least one of thickeners, pH correcting agents, dispersing agents, preservatives and other surfactants than those defined above, relative to the total weight of the formulations, in which the thickeners, pH correcting agents, dispersing agents, preservatives and other surfactants are chosen from those commonly used in cosmetic products.

[0143] Preferably, the concentration of peptide and / or vitex agnus-castus extract in the raw material formulation is less than 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight and more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight.

[0144] According to the present invention, the weight ratio of nonionic surfactants to nonionic polymer may range from 1.5 to 10, or from 2 to 8, or from 3 to 6, such as 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5 and 10.

[0145] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of

[0146] a) at least two non-ionic surfactants, chosen from polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, monoglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s) and mixtures thereof, and

[0147] b) at least one non-ionic polymer, chosen from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates,

[0148] wherein the peptide, if present, is chosen from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, camosines and their derivatives and mixtures, and the composition is preferably in the form of an H / W cream.

[0149] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of

[0150] a) a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and

[0151] b) at least one poloxamer,

[0152] wherein the peptide, if present, is selected from acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, and in particular acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, and is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0153] the vitex agnus-castus extract, where appropriate, is present in an amount ranging from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0154] the composition is preferably in the form of an H / W cream. Composition

[0155] According to the present invention, the composition comprising the above components may be in the form of a lotion, an emulsion, a paste, a cream or a gel, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) lotion, an O / W emulsion, an O / W paste, an O / W cream or an O / W gel.

[0156] According to the present invention, the peptide and the vitex agnus-castus extract included in the composition preferably come from the commercial formulations as defined above.

[0157] Preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of an emulsion or a cream, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or cream. More preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of a cream, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) cream.

[0158] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition for treating keratinous material, in particular the skin, comprising:

[0159] a) at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, in which the peptide, if present, is chosen from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, carnosines and derivatives and mixtures thereof,

[0160] b) at least two non-ionic surfactants, chosen from polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, monoglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s) and mixtures thereof,

[0161] c) at least one non-ionic polymer, chosen from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates, and optionally

[0162] d) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl phosphate salts,

[0163] in which the composition is preferably in the form of an emulsion or an O / W cream.

[0164] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skin treatment composition, comprising:

[0165] a) at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, wherein the peptide, where appropriate, is chosen from acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, and in particular acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, and is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and the vitex agnus-castus extract, where appropriate, is present in an amount ranging from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0166] b) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 5% by weight of a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0167] c) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight of at least one poloxamer, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally

[0168] d) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight of potassium cetyl phosphate, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0169] in which the composition is in the form of an emulsion or an H / W cream. Method and use

[0170] The composition according to the present invention is used in a method of treating keratinous material, such as skin, by application to the keratinous material.

[0171] It has been found that the composition according to the present invention can provide desired stability over a long period of time and a wide temperature range, and also good sensitivity for keratinous material.

[0172] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, in particular using a finger or the palm of the hand.

[0173] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous material, in particular skin, comprising applying the above composition to the keratinous material, and optionally massaging the keratinous material for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.

[0174] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a combination for improving the stability of a composition which comprises at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, and is preferably in the form of an emulsion or an O / W cream, in which the combination comprises, consists essentially of, or even consists of at least two non-ionic surfactants and at least one non-ionic polymer as defined above.

[0175] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES

[0176] The main raw materials used, their trade names and supplier are listed in Table 1.

[0177] [Tableauxl] INCI name Trade name Supplier ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER IDEALIFT SEDERMA (CRODA) GLYCERYL STEARATE STEARATE DE GLYCEROL 50 / 50 / MB (DUB GMS 50 / 50 MB) STEARINERIE DUBOIS GLYCERYL STEARATE (ET) PEG-100 STEARATE SP ARLACEL 165-FP MBAL-PA-(RB) CRODA POLOXAMER 338 SYNPERONIC PE / F 108-NAA-FL-(CQ) CRODA POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE AMPHISOL K (0452130) DSM NU- TRITIONAL PRODUCTS VITEX AGNUS-CASTUS EXTRACT DENSORPHIN MIBELLEAG BIO- CHEMISTRY Comparative Examples 1 to 6 and Inventive Example 1

[0178] The compositions according to comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 6 and inventive example (Ex.) 1 comprising the ingredients shown in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active material relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0179] [Tables2] EC components. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 CE. 5 CE. 6 Ex. 1 ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER 0.0376 0.0376 0.0376 0.0376 0.0376 0.0376 0.0376 VITEX AGNUS-CASTUS EXTRACT 0.011 0.0011 0.0011 0.0011 0.0011 0.0011 0.0011 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.75 1.5 0.5 1.5 PEG-100 STEARATE - - - 0.25 1 - 1 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE - - 2 - - - - POLOXAMER 338 - - - - - 0.5 0.5 CETYL POTASSIUM PHOSPHATE - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 APRICOT KERNEL OIL 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 DIMETHICONE 6.2 7.2 7.2 7.2 7.2 7.2 7.2 7.2 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 6.8 6.4 6.4 6.4 6.4 6.4 6.4 GLYCERIN 4.8 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 WATER QS QS QS QS QS QS QS Preparation process

[0180] The compositions were prepared from a process comprising the following steps, taking as an example the composition of inventive example 1:

[0181] 1) mixture of butylene glycol, glycerin, water and potassium cetyl phosphate for forming an aqueous phase, and mixing glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, apricot kernel oil, dimethicone and Poloxamer 338 to form an oil phase, and heating the aqueous phase and the oil phase to a temperature of 80°C respectively;

[0182] 2) introduction of the oily phase into the aqueous phase to form Mixture 1 and emulsification of Mixture 1 for ten minutes;

[0183] 3) cooling of Mixture 1 to a temperature of 50°C, then addition of the active ingredients of acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and vitex agnus-castus extract in the Mixture 1 to form Mixture 2; and

[0184] 4) cooling Mixture 2 to a temperature of 35°C to form the compound final position and stir until homogeneous. Stability tests

[0185] The performances for estimating stability, including appearance and texture, of each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 were verified at T0 (at the start of the test), T1M (1 month later) and T2M (2 months later) at temperatures of 4°C and Cycle (one cycle from -20°C to 20°C per day), respectively.

[0186] Performance was checked using a microscope, including whether the edge was full, as well as the size and homogeneity of the oil droplets, with the microscope parameter set to 10*10 times.

[0187] The stability test was considered unsuccessful if a) the mixture was not emulsified as cream; or b) the results of the microscope inspection show that large and / or irregular oil droplets were observed; or c) the results of the microscope inspection show that the edge was not full; or d) the appearance became rough during the stability test at 4°C and / or during the Cycle. Sensory testing

[0188] For each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 and 4 to 6, six individuals were invited to participate in the sensory testing. The dermatologists provided the feedback regarding the sensations for each sample, and the respective feedback and results were shown in Table 3 below.

[0189] The results are summarized in Table 3.

[0190] [Tables3] Examples Stability Feel EC. 1 Not approved No testing because the mixture was not emulsified to become a cream EC. 2 Not approved Poor feel: shiny, a little greasy and not nourishing enough EC. 3 Not approved No testing because the mixture was not emulsified to become a cream EC. 4 Not approved Poor feel: not easy to spread, floating oil, oily and shiny EC. 5 Not approved Good feel: good affinity with the skin, soft, moisturizing and slippery EC. 6 Not approved Poor feel: oil residue between the fingers, no moisturizing Ex. 1 Approved Good feel: good affinity with the skin, soft, moisturizing and slippery

[0191] From Table 3 above, it can be seen that only the composition of Inventive Example 1, which comprises at least two nonionic surfactants and at least one nonionic polymer of the present invention, passes the stability test, i.e., it achieves a desired stability in the form of an O / W cream even over a long period of time, e.g., two months, and a wide temperature range, e.g., 4°C and Cycle, and provides both a desired good feel. In contrast, the compositions of the Comparative Examples, which comprise only one nonionic surfactant or do not comprise a nonionic polymer, do not pass the stability test and / or do not achieve a desired good feel.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably for treating keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, b) at least two non-ionic surfactants, and c) at least one non-ionic polymer.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the peptide is selected from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, camosines and their derivatives and mixtures.

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the peptide is selected from the group consisting of D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives, including anserine and whale; cetyl ester of acetyl dipeptide-1, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-2, acetyl tetrapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, acetyl tetrapeptide-7, acetyl tetrapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, acetyl oc-tapeptide-3 and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from the group consisting of acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, and in particular acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the concentration of peptide and / or vitex agnus-castus extract in the raw material formulation is less than 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, monoglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s), and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from mixtures of at least one polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester and at least one monoglyceryl ester of fatty acid(s), and in particular a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-ionic polymer is chosen from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having the chemical formula (I) below: H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH (I) in which a and a' independently range from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100; and is preferably chosen from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates; more preferably chosen from poloxamers, and more preferably Poloxamer 338.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the peptide is present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 0.15% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or the vitex agnus-castus extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0002% by weight to 0.3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising: a) at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, in which the peptide, where appropriate, is chosen from acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, and in particular acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, and is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and the vitex agnus-castus extract, where appropriate, is present in an amount ranging from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;b) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 5% by weight of a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, relative to the total weight of the composition, c) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight of at least one po-loxamer, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally d) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight of potassium cetyl phosphate, relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the composition is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) lotion, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion; of an oil-in-water (O / W) paste, an oil-in-water (O / W) cream or an oil-in-water (O / W) gel, and in particular in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) cream.

9. A method of treating keratinous material, in particular the skin, comprising a) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous material, and optionally b) massaging the keratinous material for 2 seconds to 60 seconds.

10. Combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active ingredient chosen from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof and is preferably in the form of an O / W cream, comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of a) at least two non-ionic surfactants, and b) at least one non-ionic polymer, wherein the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, monoglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s) and mixtures thereof, and in particular a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate; and the non-ionic polymer is chosen from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates and in particular Poloxamer 338.