keratinous material treatment composition

Abstract

KERATINOUS MATERIAL TREATMENT COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for treating keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract, and mixtures thereof, b) at least two nonionic surfactants, and c) at least one nonionic polymer. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Keratinous material treatment composition technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a keratinous material treatment composition and in particular to a skin care composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Cosmetic active ingredients are generally applied to the skin using compositions in which they have been incorporated. These compositions are usually in the form of creams, lotions or gels which are spread on the skin while massaging with the fingertips in order to promote the penetration of the composition, and, in particular, the penetration of the active ingredients into the skin.

[0003] With the increasing demand for cosmetic functions, consumers are seeking highly potent skincare products. As is well known in the field, peptides and plant extracts such as vitex agnus-castus extract can enhance the efficacy of cosmetic products, including anti-aging, whitening, soothing, and anti-oxidant properties, etc. Therefore, it is desirable to incorporate as high a quantity as possible of peptides and / or plant extracts such as vitex agnus-castus extract into cosmetic products, especially skincare products.

[0004] Currently, most active ingredients, for example, peptides and vitex agnus-castus extract, are included in commercial formulations as raw materials in the form of a solution or emulsion, and such commercial formulations often also include a very high quantity, for example, more than 90% by weight, of solvents, in particular water and polyols, and a relatively lower quantity of at least one surfactant, dispersing agent, preservative, and thickener, for example, less than 10% by weight in total. For some of the commercial formulations, the quantity of peptides or vitex agnus-castus extract is often about 1.5% by weight or less than 1% by weight, or even as low as about 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the formulations.In this way, when preparing cosmetic products containing peptides and / or vitex agnus-castus extract, especially cosmetic products containing a relatively high amount of peptides and / or vitex agnus-castus extract, a relatively high amount of formulations as raw materials must be added to the cosmetic products, making it very difficult to achieve the desired stability, appearance and / or feel. the final product, and some formulas cannot even be sufficiently emulsified during preparation and therefore do not allow for obtaining a desirable emulsified product.

[0005] There is therefore a need for a cosmetic product, particularly in the form of an O / W cream, which may comprise a peptide and / or an extract of vitex agnus-castus, in particular a relatively higher quantity of peptide and / or extract of vitex agnus-castus, and exhibit sufficient emulsification and desirable stability even over a long period and a wide range of storage or use temperatures, and may also provide a good feeling to customers. Summary of the invention

[0006] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.

[0007] According to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for the treatment of keratinous material, comprising:

[0008] a) at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof,

[0009] b) at least two non-ionic surfactants, and

[0010] c) at least one non-ionic polymer.

[0011] The composition according to the present invention can provide the desired stability even over a long period of time and a wide range of temperatures, and also a good feel for the keratinous material.

[0012] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a method for treating keratinous material, in particular skin, comprising:

[0013] a) the application of the composition according to the first aspect to the keratinous material, and optionally

[0014] b) massaging the keratinous material for 2 to 60 seconds.

[0015] According to a third aspect, the present invention proposes a combination for to improve the stability of a composition comprising at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and their mixtures, comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of

[0016] a) at least two non-ionic surfactants, and

[0017] b) at least one non-ionic polymer.

[0018] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0019] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ...".

[0020] The articles "a" and "an," as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any particular feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and the claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more."

[0021] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as "consisting essentially of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "consisting essentially of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and innovative features is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and innovative features may be included in the embodiment.

[0022] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and other substances used in the description and claims shall be understood as being modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described in this document are approximate values ​​that may be modified according to the desired performance obtained as required. The term "approximately" referring to a certain value is intended to denote a range to within ±5% of the value, for example: within ±3%, ±2%, ±1%, and ±0.5% of the value.

[0023] As used herein, the expression "keratinous material(s)" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" includes all skin parts of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, keratinous material refers to the skin. Assets

[0024] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof. Peptide

[0025] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one peptide. In some embodiments, the composition comprises a mixture of peptides. Hereafter, the term "peptide mixture" refers to a mixture of at least two peptides. Preferably, the peptide is selected from dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, pentapeptides, hexapeptides, octapeptides, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, one or more amino acids in each peptide are a derivative of a naturally occurring amino acid.

[0026] In some embodiments, the peptide is chosen from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, carnosines and their derivatives and mixtures.

[0027] According to the present invention, examples of peptide include, but are not limited to, D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives, including anserine and whale; cetyl ester of acetyl dipeptide-1, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-2, acetyl tetrapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, acetyl tetrapeptide-7, acetyl tetrapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, acetyl octapeptide-3 or mixtures thereof.

[0028] According to the present invention, the preferred peptides are those selected from acetyl dipeptide cetyl ester-1, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, and in particular, acetyl dipeptide cetyl ester-1. Examples of peptide sources include, but are not limited to, ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER under the name Idealift available from SEDERMA (CRODA), ACETYL TETRAPEPTIDE-9 under the name Dermican available from BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION, ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE-8 under the name Argireline available from LIPOTEC and PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1 (and) PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7 under the name Maxtrixyl 3000 available from SEDERMA (CRODA).

[0029] Advantageously, the peptide is present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 0.15% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.1% by weight and more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Extract from Vitex agnus-castus

[0030] A particularly preferable example of vitex agnus-castus extract is that sold under the name DENSORPHINE by the company MIBELLE AG BIOCHEMISTRY.

[0031] Advantageously, the Vitex agnus-castus extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0002% by weight to 0.3% by weight and more preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactant

[0032] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least two non-surfactant ionic.

[0033] Preferably, non-ionic surfactants are chosen from:

[0034] - mono- and polyglyceryl esters of one or more fatty acids or their derivatives ethoxylated;

[0035] - polyol esters with one or more saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids;

[0036] - C8-C24 fatty acid(s) sorbitol esters and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives;

[0037] - esters of fatty acid(s) and glucose or alkylglucose or their derivatives ethoxylated;

[0038] - sucrose esters;

[0039] - fatty alcohols in Ci4-C24;

[0040] - polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as car- boxylique Laureth-5;

[0041] - polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol containing 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as Laureth-9;

[0042] - a polyoxyalkylated monoglyceryl ester derivative of a fatty acid such as PEG- 20 glyceryl triisostearate,

[0043] - sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate;

[0044] - polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters; and

[0045] - their mixtures.

[0046] Examples of polyglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s) include products containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, such as polyglyceryl monolaurate, oleate, myristate, caprylate, or stearate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl dilaurate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl dimyristate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl trimyristate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl trioleate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units; and polyglyceryl tricaprylate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol motifs.

[0047] Polyglyceryl esters include polyglyceryl esters of saturated, unsaturated and branched-chain fatty acid(s) in Ci6-C22, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diistearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate or mixtures thereof.

[0048] Monoglyceryl esters include, but are not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of saturated, unsaturated and branched Ci6-C22 fatty acid(s) such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate or mixtures thereof.

[0049] As monoglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s), examples include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate or mixtures thereof, or as their polyoxyalkylated derivatives, examples include mono-, di- or triester of fatty acid(s) with polyoxyalkylated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acid(s) with polyalkylene glycol ether), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, tristearate and / or triisostearate). Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated monoglyceryl ester derivative of fatty acid(s) comprises 10 to 40 oxyethylene motifs, such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

[0050] The non-ionic surfactant can be selected from polyol esters with one or more fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or their polyoxyalkylated derivatives, preferably containing 10 to 200 or more, preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene motifs, such as monoglyceryl esters or polyglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s) in C8-C24, preferably in C12-C22 and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives, preferably 10 to 200 or more, preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene motifs; sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acid(s), preferably C12-C22, or their polyoxyalkylated derivatives, preferably with 10 to 200 or more, preferably with 10 to 100 oxyalkylene motifs;sugar esters (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and / or alkylglycose) of C8-C24 fatty acid(s), preferably C12-C22, or their polyoxyalkylated derivatives, preferably containing 10 to 200, or more preferably, 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and one or more C8-C24 fatty alcohols, preferably C12-C22; or mixtures thereof.

[0051] Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Croda, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0052] Sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acid(s) and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives may be selected from sorbitan laurate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, and alkoxylated fatty acid(s) and sorbitan esters containing, for example, 20 to 100 EO, such as sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), marketed by ICI under the name Span 40, or sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) marketed by ICI under the name Tween 65, poly- sorbitan oxyethylene trioleate (polysorbate 85) or compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.

[0053] Examples of fatty acid(s) and glucose or alkylglucose esters include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty methylglucoside esters, methylglucoside and oleic acid diester (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), mixed methylglucoside and oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate), methylglucoside and isostearic acid ester (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate), methylglucoside and lauric acid ester (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), mixture of methylglucoside and isostearic acid monoester and diester (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquiisostearate), the mixture of methylglucoside and stearic acid monoester and diester (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquistearate), and, in particular,The product marketed under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL and their mixtures.

[0054] As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acid(s) and glucose or alkylglucose, one can to cite, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid(s) and methylglucose ethers and, in particular, polyethylene glycol ether of methylglucose and stearic acid diester with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of methylglucose and stearic acid monoester and diester with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT or mixtures thereof.

[0055] Examples of sucrose esters include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

[0056] As examples of fatty alcohols in Ci4-C24, we can mention oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Preferably, the polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is a polyethylene glycol ester comprising 1 to 200 oxyethylene groups and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid comprising 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably, the polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is selected from polyethylene glycol monostearate 2 EO or polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 (PEG-100 stearate).

[0058] According to the present invention, the non-ionic surfactants are preferably chosen from polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, monoglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s) and mixtures thereof.

[0059] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from mixtures of at least one fatty acid ester of polyalkylene glycol and at least one glyceryl monoester of fatty acid(s), in particular a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.

[0060] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic polymer

[0061] According to the present invention, the composition comprises at least one non-ionic polymer.

[0062] Preferably, the non-ionic polymer is chosen from the polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having the chemical formula (I) below:

[0063] H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH (I)

[0064] in which each of a and a' goes independently from 2 to 150, and b goes from 1 to 100.

[0065] Advantageously, the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide of formula (I) corresponds to a triblock polycondensate of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol.

[0066] According to some embodiments, in the chemical structure (I) described above, each of a and a' goes independently from 10 to 130, and b goes from 20 to 80. According to some embodiments, each of a and a' goes independently from 50 to 130, and b goes from 30 to 80 and preferably, each of a and a' goes independently from 80 to 130, and b goes from 40 to 80. According to a particular embodiment, a and a' are identical.

[0067] The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which is useful in the composition of the invention preferably has a weight average molecular mass of 250 to 19000, better still of 1200 to 15000, in particular of 1500 to 10000 and even better of 1500 to 5000.

[0068] Advantageously, said polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide has a cloud point, at 10 g / L in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20 °C and preferably greater than or equal to 60 °C. The cloud point is measured according to ISO 1065.

[0069] Examples of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polycondensates that can be used according to the present invention include the polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the name Synperonic, for example Synperonic® PE / F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), Synperonic® PE / F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), "Synperonic PE / L44" (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), "Synperonic® PE / L42" (INCI name: Poloxamer 122), "Synperonic PE / F127" (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), "Synperonic PE / F88" (INCI name: Poloxamer 238) or "Synperonic PE / L64" (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), "Synperonic PE / F88" (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), "Synperonic PE / F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) from Croda, or Lutrol® F68 (INCI name: Poloxamer 188) by BASF.

[0070] Preferably, the non-ionic polymer according to the present invention is chosen from among the poloxamers, and in particular Synperonic® PE / F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338).

[0071] Advantageously, the non-ionic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight and more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic surfactant

[0072] According to the present invention, the composition may include at least one anionic surfactant.

[0073] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen to be alkyl phosphate salts.

[0074] In some embodiments, the alkyl phosphate salt is selected from dialkyl phosphate salts, monoalkyl phosphate salts, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the alkyl phosphate salt is a monoalkyl phosphate salt.

[0075] As used here, the term "monoalkyl" means that the phosphate motif is linked to a single alkyl chain, and the term "dialkyl" means that the phosphate motif is linked to two alkyl chains.

[0076] In certain embodiments, the monoalkyl phosphate salt has the following formula (II): o R ( Q__1 ____[|____ s [ ' ' Jn । OX

[0077] (II)

[0078] in which:

[0079] ^represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkylene comprising from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and more preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0080] A represents an alkylene group comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms;

[0081] n represents an integer from 0 to 20, preferably n is 0;

[0082] X represents alkali metals, such as potassium, lithium and sodium.

[0083] Preferably, the dialkyl phosphate salt is chosen from diketyl phosphate salts, such as potassium diketyl phosphate and dimyristyle phosphate salts.

[0084] Preferably, the monoalkyl phosphate salt is chosen from potassium lauryl phosphate and potassium cetyl phosphate, marketed for example under the trade names Amphisol® K (Roche), Amphisol® A (Roche), Arlatone® MAP (Uniqema), Crodafos® MCA (Croda) and Amphisol® K (DSM Nutritional Products).

[0085] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight and more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oil

[0086] According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one oil.

[0087] Hereinafter, the term "oil" refers to a fatty compound or a fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0088] As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination with others. This / these oil(s) may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0089] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones or the like; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers; or a mixture of these.

[0090] The oil can be oils of vegetable or animal origin and synthetic oils.

[0091] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, apricot kernel oil and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0093] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and their mixtures.

[0094] Ether hydrocarbon-based oil, also known as ether oil, can be volatile or non-volatile and is preferably non-volatile.

[0095] An ether hydrocarbon-based oil is an oil of formula RiOR2 in which Ri and R2 independently designate a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group in C4-C24, preferably an alkyl group in C6-Ci8 and preferably an alkyl group in C8-Ci2. It may be preferable that Ri and R2 be identical.

[0096] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0097] In some embodiments, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0098] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0099] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0100] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:

[0101] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecam ethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, marketed by Union Carbide, with the formula: pD—D'-------------------------------D'-O'p CH, CH. with -81-0- and with DU - SH O — 0¾

[0102] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

[0103] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

[0104] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0105] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

[0106] - Silbione® oils from ranges 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

[0107] - the oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

[0108] - Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm2 / s;

[0109] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0110] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0111] Silicones containing aryl groups include polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples include products sold under the following names:

[0112] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range of Rhodia;

[0113] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

[0114] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

[0115] - silicones from the PK range of Bayer, such as product PK20;

[0116] - certain oils in the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0117] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0118] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0119] - linear or branched, optionally cyclic, lower alkanes, in the C6-Ci6 range; and

[0120] - linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms.

[0121] According to the present invention, the oil is preferably chosen from among the oils vegetable oils, silicone oils and their mixtures. Preferably, the oil is chosen from apricot kernel oil, dimethicone and a mixture of these.

[0122] Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Aqueous solvent

[0123] The compositions of the present invention may include at least one aqueous solvent.

[0124] Preferably, the aqueous solvent of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example C2-C8 polyols, or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0125] The term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols include glycols, in particular butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (namely glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

[0126] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present application comprises at least one C2-C8 polyol selected from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin and polyethylene glycols.

[0127] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises both water and at least one C2-C8 polyol, preferably butylene glycol and / or glycerol (namely glycerin).

[0128] Advantageously, the C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 25% by weight and more preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] Advantageously, water is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40% to 75% by weight and more preferably from 45% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0130] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those ordinarily used in skin care products.

[0131] The composition according to the present invention may comprise any one of the The following additives: dispersing agents; pH correcting agents; preservatives; antibacterial agents; perfumes; thickeners; chelating agents and other surfactants than those defined above.

[0132] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients. Combination

[0133] The present invention proposes a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of

[0134] a) at least two non-ionic surfactants, and

[0135] b) at least one non-ionic polymer,

[0136] in which the types of the nonionic active surfactant and the nonionic polymer are defined above.

[0137] In some embodiments, the peptide is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 0.1% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] In some embodiments, the vitex agnus-castus extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.0002% by weight to 0.3% by weight, preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] In some embodiments, said composition is in the form of a cream, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) cream.

[0140] According to the present invention, the peptide and the vitex agnus-castus extract, if present, preferably come from commercial formulations which are in the form of a solution or emulsion and comprise 90% or more by weight of at least one aqueous solvent including water and polyols, and optionally 10% or less by weight of at least one of the thickeners, pH correctors, dispersing agents, preservatives and other surfactants than those defined above, relative to the total weight of the formulations.

[0141] In certain embodiments, said commercial formulations comprise an amount of 93% by weight or more, 95% by weight or more, 97% by weight or more, or 99% by weight or more of at least one aqueous solvent including water and polyols, relative to the total weight of the commercial formulations, in which the polyol is preferably selected from butylene glycol and glycerin.

[0142] In certain embodiments, said commercial formulations comprise an amount of 8% by weight or less, 5% by weight or less, 3% by weight or less, or 1% by weight or less of at least one of thickeners, pH correctors, dispersing agents, preservatives and other surfactants than those defined above, relative to the total weight of the formulations, in which the thickeners, pH correctors, dispersing agents, preservatives and other surfactants are selected from those commonly used in cosmetic products.

[0143] Preferably, the concentration of peptide and / or vitex agnus-castus extract in the raw material formulation is less than 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight and more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight.

[0144] According to the present invention, the weight ratio of nonionic surfactants to the nonionic polymer can range from 1.5 to 10, or from 2 to 8, or from 3 to 6, such as 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5 and 10.

[0145] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of

[0146] a) at least two non-ionic surfactants, selected from polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, monoglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s) and mixtures thereof, and

[0147] b) at least one non-ionic polymer, selected from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates,

[0148] wherein the peptide, if present, is selected from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, camosins and their derivatives and mixtures, and the composition is preferably in the form of an O / W cream.

[0149] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of

[0150] a) a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and

[0151] b) at least one poloxamer,

[0152] wherein the peptide, if present, is selected from acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, and in particular acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, and is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0153] Vitex agnus-castus extract, if any, is present in an amount ranging from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0154] the composition is preferably in the form of an O / W cream. Composition

[0155] According to the present invention, the composition comprising the above components may be in the form of a lotion, an emulsion, a paste, a cream or a gel, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) lotion, an O / W emulsion, an O / W paste, an O / W cream or an O / W gel.

[0156] According to the present invention, the peptide and the vitex agnus-castus extract included in the composition preferably come from commercial formulations as defined above.

[0157] Preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of an emulsion or a cream, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or cream. More preferably, the composition comprising the above components is in the form of a cream, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) cream.

[0158] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a keratinous material treatment composition, in particular for skin, comprising:

[0159] a) at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, wherein the peptide, if present, is selected from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, carnosines and their derivatives and mixtures,

[0160] b) at least two non-ionic surfactants, selected from polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, monoglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s) and mixtures thereof,

[0161] c) at least one non-ionic polymer, selected from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates, and optionally

[0162] d) at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl phosphate salts,

[0163] wherein the composition is preferably in the form of an emulsion or an O / W cream.

[0164] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skin treatment composition, comprising:

[0165] a) at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, wherein the peptide, where applicable, is selected from acetyl dipeptide cetyl ester-1, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, and in particular acetyl dipeptide cetyl ester-1, and is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and vitex agnus-castus extract, where applicable, is present in an amount ranging from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0166] b) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 5% by weight of a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0167] c) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight of at least one poloxamer, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally

[0168] d) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight of potassium cetyl phosphate, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0169] wherein the composition is in the form of an emulsion or an O / W cream. Method and use

[0170] The composition according to the present invention is used in a process for treating keratinous material, such as skin, by application to the keratinous material.

[0171] It has been found that the composition according to the present invention can provide desired stability over a long period of time and a wide temperature range, and also good sensitivity for keratinous material.

[0172] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, in particular using a finger or the palm of a hand.

[0173] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous material, in particular skin, comprising applying the above composition to the keratinous material, and optionally massaging the keratinous material for 2 to 60 seconds.

[0174] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a combination to improve the stability of a composition which comprises at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, and is preferably in the form of an emulsion or an O / W cream, wherein the combination comprises, consists essentially of, or even consists of at least two non-ionic surfactants and at least one non-ionic polymer as defined above.

[0175] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustrations. EXAMPLES

[0176] The main raw materials used, their trade names and supplier are listed in Table 1.

[0177] [Tables] INCI name Trade name Supplier ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER IDEALIFT SEDERMA (CRODA) GLYCERYL STEARATE STEARATE DE GLYCEROL 50 / 50 / MB (DUB GMS 50 / 50 MB) STEARINERIE DUBOIS GLYCERYL STEARATE (ET) PEG-100 STEARATE SP ARLACEL 165-FP MBAL-PA-(RB) CRODA POLOXAMER 338 SYNPERONIC PE / F 108-NAA-FL-(CQ) CRODA POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE AMPHISOL K (0452130) DSM NU- TRITIONAL PRODUCTS VITEX AGNUS-CASTUS EXTRACT DENSORPHIN MIBELLEAG BIO- CHEMISTRY Comparative Examples 1 to 6 and Inventive Example 1

[0178] The compositions according to comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 6 and inventive example (Ex.) 1 comprising the ingredients listed in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active material relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0179] [Tables2] EC components. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 CE. 5 CE. 6 Ex. 1 Acetyl Cetyl Ester Dipeptide-1 0.0376 0.0376 0.0376 0.0376 0.0376 0.0376 0.0376 Vitex Agnus-Castus Extract 0.011 0.0011 0.0011 0.0011 0.0011 0.0011 0.0011 Glyceryl Stearate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.75 1.5 0.5 1.5 PEG-100 Stearate - - - 0.25 1 - 1 Cetearyl Glucoside - - 2 - - - - Poloxamer 338 - - - - - 0.5 0.5 Cetyl Phosphate POTASSIUM - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 APRICOT KERNEL OIL 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 DIMETHICONE 6.2 7.2 7.2 7.2 7.2 7.2 7.2 7.2 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 6.8 6.4 6.4 6.4 6.4 6.4 6.4 GLYCERIN 4.8 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 WATER QS QS QS QS QS QS QS Preparation process

[0180] The compositions were prepared from a process comprising the following steps, taking as an example the composition of inventive example 1:

[0181] 1) mixture of butylene glycol, glycerin, water and potassium cetyl phosphate for form an aqueous phase, and mix glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, apricot kernel oil, dimethicone and Poloxamer 338 to form an oily phase, and heat the aqueous phase and the oily phase to a temperature of 80 °C respectively;

[0182] 2) introduction of the oily phase into the aqueous phase to form Mixture 1 and emulsification of Mixture 1 for ten minutes;

[0183] 3) cooling Mixture 1 to a temperature of 50 °C, then adding the active ingredients of cetyl ester of acetyl dipeptide-1 and vitex agnus-castus extract in the Mixture 1 to form Mixture 2; and

[0184] 4) cooling Mixture 2 to a temperature of 35 °C to form the com final position and agitation until homogeneity. Stability tests

[0185] The performance for estimating the stability, including appearance and texture, of each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 was verified at T0 (at the beginning of the test), T1M (1 month later) and T2M (2 months later) at temperatures of 4°C and Cycle (one cycle from -20°C to 20°C per day), respectively.

[0186] The performance was checked using a microscope, including whether the edge was full, as well as the size and homogeneity of the oil droplets, with the microscope setting set to 10*10 times.

[0187] The stability test was considered unsuccessful if a) the mixture was not emulsified as cream; or b) the results of microscopic inspection showed that large and / or irregular oil droplets were observed; or c) the results of microscopic inspection showed that the edge was not full; or d) the appearance became rough during the stability test at 4°C and / or during the Cycle. Sensory tests

[0188] For each composition of Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 and 4 to 6, six people were invited to participate in the sensory test. Dermatologists provided feedback on the sensations for each sample, and the respective feedback and results are shown in Table 3 below.

[0189] The results are summarized in Table 3.

[0190] [Tables3] Examples Stability Feel EC. 1 Not approved No test because the mixture was not emulsified into a cream EC. 2 Not approved Poor feel: shiny, slightly greasy, and not nourishing enough EC. 3 Not approved No test because the mixture was not emulsified into a cream EC. 4 Not approved Poor feel: not easy to spread, oily, oily, and shiny EC. 5 Not approved Good feel: good affinity with skin, soft, moisturizing, and slippery EC. 6 Not approved Poor feel: oily residue between fingers, not moisturizing Ex. 1 Approved Good feel: good affinity with skin, soft, moisturizing, and slippery

[0191] From Table 3 above, it can be seen that only the composition of Inventive Example 1, which comprises at least two nonionic surfactants and at least one nonionic polymer of the present invention, passes the stability test; that is, it achieves the desired stability in the form of an oil-in-water cream even over a long period of time, for example, two months, and a wide temperature range, for example, 4°C and 50°F, and provides the desired pleasant feel. In contrast, the compositions of the Comparative Examples, which comprise only one nonionic surfactant or do not include a nonionic polymer, fail the stability test and / or do not provide the desired pleasant feel.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for the treatment of keratinous material, comprising: a) at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, b) at least two non-ionic surfactants, and c) at least one non-ionic polymer.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the peptide is selected from acetyl peptides, palmitoyl peptides, camosins and their derivatives and mixtures.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the peptide is selected from the group consisting of D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives, including anserine and whale; cetyl ester of acetyl dipeptide-1, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-2, acetyl tetrapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-5, acetyl tetrapeptide-7, acetyl tetrapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, acetyl oc-tapeptide-3 and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl ester of acetyl dipeptide-1, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, and in particular cetyl ester of acetyl dipeptide-1.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration of peptide and / or vitex agnus-castus extract in the raw material formulation is less than 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.5% by weight.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonionic surfactants are selected from polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, fatty acid monoglyceryl esters, and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from mixtures of at least one polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester and at least one fatty acid monoglyceryl ester, and in particular a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonionic polymer is selected from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having the chemical formula (I) below: H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH (I) in which a and a' go independently from 2 to 150, and b goes from 1 to 100; and is preferably chosen from the triblock polycondensates of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol; more preferably chosen from the poloxamers, and more preferably Poloxamer 338.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the peptide is present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 0.15% by weight, preferably from 0.001% by weight to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or the vitex agnus-castus extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% by weight to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0002% by weight to 0.3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising: a) at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, wherein the peptide, where applicable, is selected from acetyl dipeptide cetyl ester-1, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and mixtures thereof, and in particular acetyl dipeptide cetyl ester-1, and is present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 0.06% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and vitex agnus-castus extract, where applicable, is present in an amount from 0.0003% by weight to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;b) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 5% by weight of a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, relative to the total weight of the composition, c) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight of at least one po-loxamer, relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally d) an amount of 0.4% by weight to 0.6% by weight of potassium cetyl phosphate, relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the composition is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) lotion, an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion; of an oil-in-water (O / W) paste, an oil-in-water (O / W) cream or an oil-in-water (O / W) gel, and in particular in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) cream.

9. A method for treating keratinous material, in particular skin, comprising a) applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous material, and optionally b) massaging the keratinous material for 2 to 60 seconds.

10. Combination for improving the stability of a composition comprising at least one active ingredient selected from peptides, vitex agnus-castus extract and mixtures thereof, and preferably in the form of an O / W cream, comprising, consisting essentially of, or even consisting of (a) at least two nonionic surfactants, and (b) at least one nonionic polymer, wherein the nonionic surfactants are selected from polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, monoglyceryl esters of fatty acid(s) and mixtures thereof, and in particular a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate; and the nonionic polymer is selected from polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates and in particular Poloxamer 338.