SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND / OR MAKEUP OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a silicone-free composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid; (ii) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters, C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated esters, and mixtures thereof; (iii) at least one A polymer selected from acrylic polymers; (iv) at least one oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty acid esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; and (v) at least one C-glycoside. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a silicone-free composition. The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The development of cosmetic products dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips is ongoing.

[0003] Different cosmetic products will include different cosmetic active ingredients depending on the intended use.

[0004] Some products for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials have a lamellar structure.

[0005] When a product with a lamellar structure is applied, it is very likely to generate a white cast or a soapy appearance, which is perceived as a sign of poor absorption of the product. Traditionally, silicone is effective in reducing the soapy appearance. However, silicone-free products are more desirable to some consumers.

[0006] Therefore, it is desirable to have silicone-free products for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which have a good anti-soapy appearance effect. Summary of the invention

[0007] The present invention aims to develop silicone-free products for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, which have a good anti-soapy appearance effect.

[0008] The present invention also aims to propose a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials with the above compositions.

[0009] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a silicone-free composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous material, comprising:

[0010] (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid;

[0011] (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters, C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated esters, and mixtures thereof;

[0012] (iii) at least one polymer A selected from acrylic polymers;

[0013] (iv) at least one oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; and

[0014] (v) at least one C-glycoside.

[0015] The inventors have found that the composition of the present invention has a good anti-soapy appearance effect.

[0016] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has a lamellar structure.

[0017] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0018] Other features and advantages of the invention will become clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. Brief description of the drawings

[0019] Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[0020] [Fig-1] Fig. 1 shows the rating standards for the intensity of aspect ratio films soapy products obtained from the test compositions. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0022] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0023] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0024] The expression "and / or" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or both" of the indicated elements.

[0025] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0026] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which, where appropriate, may be changed according to the desired purpose.

[0027] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" means all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the skin of the face.

[0028] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0029] The silicone-free composition according to the present invention comprises:

[0030] (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid;

[0031] (ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters, C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated esters, and mixtures thereof;

[0032] (iii) at least one polymer A selected from acrylic polymers;

[0033] (iv) at least one oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-C12 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; and

[0034] (v) at least one C-glycoside. Saturated C14-C22 fatty acids

[0035] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid.

[0036] Examples of saturated C14-C22 fatty acids include myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, and their combinations.

[0037] Preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from saturated Ci4-Ci8 fatty acids.

[0038] More preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from linear and saturated Ci4-Ci8 fatty acids.

[0039] Even more preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and their combinations.

[0040] Advantageously, the saturated C14-C22 fatty acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactants

[0041] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters, C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated esters and their mixtures.

[0042] As used herein, C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl ester means an ester of glycerol and a C14-C22 fatty acid, the C14-C22 fatty acid may be an unsaturated or saturated, linear or branched acid, for example, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid and / or myristic acid.

[0043] Examples of C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters include glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl arachidate, glyceryl behenate and mixtures thereof.

[0044] As used herein, the C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated ester is an ester of polyethylene glycol and a Ci4-C22 fatty acid.

[0045] Preferably, polyethylene glycol comprises from 1 to 200 oxyethylene groups, more preferably comprises from 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups, most preferably comprises from 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups.

[0046] For alkylglucosides, we can mention glucose ethers and fatty alcohols in C8-C24, i.e. alkylglucosides in C8-C24, for example decylglucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, laurylglucoside, coco-glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, or mixtures thereof.

[0047] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters comprising 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups and a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, C8-C24 alkylglucosides, and their combinations.

[0048] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, esters of polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups and a C14-C22 fatty acid chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, C12-C24 alkylglucosides, and their combinations.

[0049] Even more preferably, the surfactant is chosen from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside, and one of their mixtures.

[0050] Most preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate and arachidyl glucoside.

[0051] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.8% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] It was discovered with the combination of at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid and of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from a C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl ester, a C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated ester, alkylglucosides, and mixtures thereof, that the composition according to the present invention may have a lamellar structure, the structure being able to help increase the viscosity of the composition and to increase the stability of the composition.

[0053] Preferably, the weight ratio between the at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid and the at least one nonionic surfactant selected from a C14.C22 fatty acid glyceryl ester, a C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated ester, alkylglucosides and mixtures thereof, is equal to or less than 6, preferably equal to or less than 4, more preferably from 0.2 to 4, even more preferably from 0.5 to 4, most preferably from 1 to 4. Acrylic polymers

[0054] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polymer A selected from acrylic polymers.

[0055] Preferably, polymer A is chosen from acrylic homopolymers.

[0056] More preferably, polymer A is chosen from acrylic polyacid salts.

[0057] Even more preferably, polymer A is chosen from among the metallic salts of acrylic polyacids.

[0058] Acrylic polyacid salts can be partially or totally neutralized.

[0059] More preferably, polymer A is chosen from sodium, potassium, lithium salts of acrylic polyacids, and their mixtures.

[0060] The most preferred salt of polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.

[0061] Sodium polyacrylates are acrylic homopolymers in partially or totally neutralized form, and they are hydrophilic.

[0062] Sodium polyacrylate is for example marketed under the name COVACRYL MV60 by the company SENSIENT.

[0063] The inventors discovered that the presence of polymer A can enhance the stability of the composition.

[0064] Advantageously, the polymer A chosen from among the acrylic polymers is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0065] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least an oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-Ci2 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0066] The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water and is liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0067] The oils can be volatile oils or non-volatile oils.

[0068] The expression "volatile oil" refers to any oil which has the capacity to evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0069] The expression "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0070] The term "alkane" designates any compound comprising a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, consisting exclusively of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.

[0071] Preferably, the alkanes are linear or C8-C20 branched alkanes. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.

[0072] The C8-C50 fatty esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic mono- or poly-alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0073] Preferably, for C8-C50 fatty esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0074] These esters may be, for example, adipates, sebacates, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof.

[0075] More preferably, the C8-C50 fatty esters are selected from diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, ethylhexyl olivate and mixtures thereof; most preferably selected from diisopropyl sebacate, ethylhexyl olivate and mixtures thereof.

[0076] The fatty alcohol is preferably chosen from among the C8-C10 fatty alcohols, more preferably the fatty alcohol is octanol.

[0077] Preferably, the oil is selected from branched alkanes containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms; liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of esters being greater than or equal to 10; fatty alcohols in C8-Cl2; and their mixtures.

[0078] More preferably, the oil is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane, diisopropyl sebacate, ethylhexyl olivate and mixtures thereof; even more preferably, is chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof; most preferably is isododecane.

[0079] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 4% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C-glycosides

[0080] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside.

[0081] Preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from compounds of formula (I): X—R (I) ç-- /

[0082] in which:

[0083] - R represents a saturated alkyl radical in the Ci-Cio, preferably Ci-C4, group which can be optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated Ci-C4 alkyl radical,

[0084] - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar motifs, preferably up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and L and / or D series, knowing that said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and

[0085] - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, - CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and preferably a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more preferably a radical -CH(OH)-,

[0086] the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be α or [3,

[0087] as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

[0088] The C-glycosides used for the implementation of the invention are preferably those for which R designates a linear alkyl radical saturated in Ci-C6, preferably in CrC4, more preferably in CrC2 and even more preferably, a methyl radical.

[0089] Among the alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention, the following may be cited: methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec- butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.

[0090] According to one embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R otherwise retaining all the above definitions.

[0091] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and preferably D-xylose.

[0092] More preferably, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar motifs can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and preferably xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.

[0093] More preferably, S can represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and preferably D-xylose.

[0094] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used, for which:

[0095] - R denotes an alkyl radical in the Ci-C4 configuration, preferably in a linear unsubstituted Ci-C2 configuration, including a methyl radical;

[0096] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and preferably chosen among D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and more preferentially D-xylose;

[0097] - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and, of preferably, a -CH(OH)- group.

[0098] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. Also acceptable are salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more acid groups such as... boxyl, sulfonic or phosphonic. Examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0099] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2, or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine, for example, triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; examples include 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol, or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned.

[0100] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0101] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or mixed with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.

[0102] A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02 / 051828.

[0103] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside compounds suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be cited:

[0104] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0105] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0106] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0107] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0108] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0109] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0110] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, [OUI] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0112] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0113] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0114] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0115] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0116] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0117] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0118] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0119] - l-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0120] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0121] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0122] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0123] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0124] - CPD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0125] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0126] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0127] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.

[0128] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and even better C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can be advantageously used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.

[0129] According to a specific embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) supplied as a solution containing 70% by weight of active substance in water and propylene glycol.

[0130] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] Optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymers

[0132] Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises a polymer B selected from optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymers having a hydrophobic fatty chain of 8 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0133] As used herein, the expression "optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymers" means that the acrylic acid copolymers are optionally partially or totally neutralized with a base such as ammonia, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0134] Polymer B is different from polymer A mentioned previously.

[0135] Preferably, polymer B is selected from optionally neutralized copolymers of:

[0136] at least one monomer of the following formula (1): ,..(1) k; V

[0137] in which Ri designates H or CH3 or C2H5, that is to say the monomers of acid acrylic or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid respectively, and

[0138] at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl ester monomer (Ci0-C30) which corresponds to the monomer of formula (2) following: (2)

[0139] in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid motifs, and preferably H (acrylate motifs) or CH3 (methacrylate motifs) and R3 denotes an alkyl radical in Cio-C3O.

[0140] Alkyl esters (in C10-C3O) of unsaturated carboxylic acids are preferably selected from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] According to a preferred embodiment, polymer B is crosslinked.

[0142] More preferably, copolymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising are used:

[0143] (i) essentially acrylic acid,

[0144] (ii) an ester of formula (2) described above in which R2 denotes H or CH3 and R3 denotes an alkyl radical comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0145] (iii) a crosslinking agent that is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, div-nylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide, and

[0146] (iv) optionally a base selected from ammonia, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and one of their combinations.

[0147] Among copolymers of this type, those composed of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C3O alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic motif) and 0% to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or those composed of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C3O alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic motif) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, such as those described above, optionally the copolymers are partially or totally neutralized with a base such as ammonia, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0148] Preference is given to products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen™ TR-1, Pemulen™ TR-2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol EDT 2020.

[0149] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention includes an optionally neutralized acrylic acid copolymer selected from a C10-30 sodium acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, a C10-30 acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, and one of their combinations.

[0150] Advantageously, polymer B is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.08% by weight to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophobic powders

[0151] Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises a hydrophobic powder with a hydrophobic part comprising a CM-C30 fatty chain.

[0152] Preferably, the hydrophobic powder is chosen from mineral particles coated with a Ci4-C30 fatty alcohol.

[0153] More preferably, the hydrophobic powder is chosen from mineral oxide particles coated with a fatty alcohol in Ci6-C22-

[0154] According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises silica coated with cetyl alcohol.

[0155] Advantageously, the hydrophobic hydrophilic powder is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0156] The composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

[0157] Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10% in weight at 95% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] The continuous aqueous phase comprises water.

[0159] Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% by weight to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. cosmetic active ingredients

[0160] The composition of the present invention may include an additional cosmetic active ingredient.

[0161] Examples of additional cosmetic active ingredients include niacinamide, panthenol and mixtures thereof.

[0162] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the cosmetic active ingredient on the basis of the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0163] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, preservatives, bactericides, additional surfactants, waxes; additional thickeners, pH correctors, and mixtures thereof.

[0164] A person skilled in the art can adjust the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0165] The composition according to the present invention is "silicone-free", meaning that the amount of silicone in the composition is less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] Preferably, the amount of silicone in the composition is less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise silicone. If necessary, small quantities of silicone may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amounts but are not deliberately provided.

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a silicone-free composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0169] (i) from 3% by weight to 7% by weight of at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid selected including myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and one of their combinations;

[0170] (ii) from 0.8% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside and a mixture thereof;

[0171] (iii) of 0.5% by weight to 1% by weight of sodium polyacrylate;

[0172] (iv) from 4% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one oil selected from the alkanes branched structures containing 10 to 16 carbon atoms; and

[0173] (v) of 5% by weight to 15% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. Preparation and use

[0174] The composition of the present invention can be prepared by conventional means in art.

[0175] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0176] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on keratinous materials.

[0177] Preferably, the keratinous material can be skin, for example facial skin. EXAMPLES

[0178] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0179] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0180] [Tables 1] Nom INCI Nom commercial Fournisseur Glyceryl stéarate (and) PEG-100 stéarate ARLACEL™ 165 CRODA Stearic acid EDENOR®ST 05MY Emery Oleochemicals Group Arachidyl glucoside MONTANOV 202 SEPPIC Sodium polyacrylate COVACRYL MV60 SENSIENT Beeswax CERABEIL LOR BAERLOCHER Isododecane Purolan IDD INEOS Oligomers Isohexadecane Isohexadecane INEOS Oligomers Silica (and) cetyl alcohol SUNSIL-OLEO20 SUNJIN BEAUTY SCIENCE CO. LTD Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer Pemulen™ TR-1 polymer Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc Carbomer CARBOPOL® 980 POLYMER Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc Hydroxypropyl tetrahy-dropyrantriol MEXORYL SCS NOVEAL Ethylhexyl olivate SENSOLENE® The HallStar Company Diisopropyl sebacate DUB DIS STEARINERIE DUBOIS

[0181] Exemples inventifs 1-7 et Exemples comparatifs 1-2

[0182] The compositions of inventive examples (El) 1-7 and comparative examples (EC) 1-2 were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of each ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] [Tables2] INCI EC. 1 EC. 2 El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 El. 4 El. 5 El. 6 El. 7 Arachidyl glucoside (active ingredient, MA) 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA 0.5 MA Isododecane 5.0 Isohexadecane 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Diisopropyl sebacate 5.0 Ethylhexyl olivate 5.0 Stearic acid 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2 4.4 4.4 5.2 5.2 Dicaprylyl ether 5.0 Silica (AND) Cetyl alcohol 0.3 Beeswax 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.2 1.2 1.4 1.4 Glyceryl stearate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Sodium poly-acrylate 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 PEG-100 stearate 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Carbomer 0.2 0.2 Acrylates / C10-3 0 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.2 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrant riol 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 10.5 Water QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0 QS10 0

[0184] The compositions in Inventive Examples 1-7 represent compositions according to the present invention.

[0185] The compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2 do not include at least one oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty esters, C8-Ci2 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0186] Preparation process:

[0187] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows:

[0188] 1. Heating of saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, non-ionic surfactant, wax bee oil, oil (if present), dicaprylyl ether (if present) at 80°C to obtain mixture A;

[0189] 2. water heating to 80;

[0190] 3. Addition of mixture A to water at 80 with stirring;

[0191] 4. Addition of polymer A (sodium polyacrylate) and polymer B (if present) to 80°C with stirring;

[0192] 5. Addition of C-glycoside at 80°C with stirring;

[0193] 6. Addition of hydrophobic powder (if present) at 50°C with stirring;

[0194] 7. cooling of the resulting composition. Composition evaluation

[0195] The anti-soapy appearance property of each composition was evaluated by in vitro protocol as follows:

[0196] 1. application of 200 qL of the test composition to a bioskin with an area of 6.3 cm x 6.3 cm;

[0197] 2. passing the finger over the composition describing 2 cycles / s for 30 seconds;

[0198] 3. observation of the intensity of the soapy film obtained and notation according to the standard as shown in [Fig.l], in which 1: least soapy appearance; 4: most soapy appearance, a score of 3 is acceptable.

[0199] The results of the soapy appearance presented by the compositions of inventive examples 1-7 and comparative examples 1-2 have been summarized below.

[0200] [Tables3] EC Properties. 1 EC. 2 EL 1 EL 2 EL. 3 EL 4 EL. 5 EL. 6 EL 7 Soapy Appearance Score 4 4 ​​1 3 2 3 2 3 3

[0201] It can be seen that the compositions of inventive examples 1-7 are anti-soapy aspect.

Claims

Demands

1. Silicone-free composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous material, comprising: (i) at least one saturated C14-C22 fatty acid; (ii) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters, C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated esters, and mixtures thereof; (iii) at least one A polymer selected from acrylic polymers; (iv) at least one oil selected from alkanes, C8-C50 fatty acid esters, C8-Ci2 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; and (v) at least one C-glycoside.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the saturated C14-C22 fatty acid is selected from linear and saturated Ci4-Ci8 fatty acids, preferably the fatty acid is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and one of their combinations.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from glyceryl esters of a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, polyethylene glycol esters comprising 10 to 150 oxyethylene groups and a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid, C8-C24 alkylglucosides, and combinations thereof, preferably selected from glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, polyethylene glycol esters comprising 20 to 100 oxyethylene groups and a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and isostearic acid, C12-C24 alkylglucosides, and combinations thereof, plus preferably selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the weight ratio of at least one CM-C22 saturated fatty acid to at least one nonionic surfactant selected from C14-C22 fatty acid glyceryl ester, C14-C22 fatty acid polyoxyethylenated ester, alkylglucosides and mixtures thereof is equal to or less than 6, preferably equal to or less than 4, more preferably from 0.2 to 4, even more preferably from 0.5 to 4, most preferably from 1 to 4.

5. d *T. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in in which polymer A is chosen from acrylic homopolymers, preferably chosen from salts of acrylic polyacids, more preferably chosen from metallic salts of acrylic polyacids, even more preferably chosen from sodium, potassium, lithium salts of acrylic polyacids, and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the oil is selected from branched alkanes containing 8 to 20 carbon atoms; liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, linear, aliphatic Ci-26 monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear, or branched, aliphatic Ci-26 monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10; fatty C8-Ci2 alcohols; and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from isododecane, isohexadecane, diisopropyl sebacate, ethylhexyl olivate and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from isododecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, most preferably the oil being isododecane.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the oil is present in an amount from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 4% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I): X—R (I) S---q, wherein: - R represents a saturated C1-C1 alkyl radical, preferably C1-C4, which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR'2, R'2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, preferably up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, wherein said monosaccharide or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and - X represents a radical selected from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, - CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and preferably a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more preferably a radical -CH(OH)-, the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be a or [3, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers; Preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to claim 1 or 8, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 3% by weight to 7% by weight of at least one saturated Ci4-C22 fatty acid selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and one of their combinations; (ii) from 0.8% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl glucoside and a mixture thereof; (iii) 0.5% by weight to 1% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; (iv) from 4% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one oil selected from branched alkanes containing 10 to 16 carbon atoms; and (v) from 5% by weight to 15% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropy-rantriol.

10. Non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.