Process for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase

Abstract

Process for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase The present invention relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase, comprising the following steps: a) a step of introducing into a tank a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance, at least partly solid at 25°C, chosen from waxes, pasties, and mixtures thereof, b) a step of heating the fatty phase obtained in a) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point(s) of the fatty substance(s), c) optionally, a step of adding an aqueous phase to the fatty phase of step a) or to the heated fatty phase of step b), to obtain a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, it being understood that when step c) is present, then step b) is carried out on the fatty phase obtained in a) or on the composition obtained in c),d) a step of cooling the heated fatty phase obtained in b) or the composition obtained in c), e) optionally, a step of remelting the cooled fatty phase obtained in d) or the cooled composition obtained in d), wherein stirring is applied either during the cooling step d) or at the end of the remelting step e), said stirring being carried out until a target temperature is obtained within the fatty phase or the composition, said target temperature being less than 90% of the melting point value of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, and f) a step of pouring the stirred fatty phase obtained at the end of step d) or e) or the stirred composition obtained at the end of step d) or e) into at least one container. Figure for the abstract: none,

Description

Title of the invention: Process for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase

[0001] The present invention relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase, comprising specific steps.

[0002] Cosmetic compositions intended for care (for example hygiene such as deodorant compositions) and / or for make-up, in particular for the lips or complexion, and / or for hair (for example conditioners in paste form), have been known for a very long time and are presented in increasingly varied forms, ranging from viscous fluid type formulas such as glosses, to solid compositions in stick form, supported or not, compositions in pencil form, or even compositions stored in pots.

[0003] However, there are very few commercial cosmetic compositions for care and / or makeup and / or hair, in particular lipsticks, which are flexible or creamy; this is due to the difficulty of adapting the texture or hardness in a controlled manner.

[0004] The common strategy for varying the hardness is to modify the formulation, for example by modifying the type and / or content of waxes and / or oils, which may result in an increase in the hardness of the composition, particularly of lipstick, or may create problems with the stability of the composition at 4°C, 25°C or 40°C.

[0005] There is therefore a need for cosmetic compositions for care and / or makeup and / or hair care which can be used on the skin, for example the cheeks, face and / or lips, and / or hair, with new textures and / or new sensory properties, for example which are flexible and easily applicable.

[0006] The present invention therefore aims to provide a solution to the above problems.

[0007] The invention relates to a new method for producing a cosmetic composition for care and / or makeup and / or hair, preferably of the lipstick type, which consists of applying specific stirring during the cooling of the mixture (or bulk) for preparing the cosmetic composition before the filling step. This specific stirring step results in pre-crystallization of the bulk before filling, and thus modifies the physicochemical and sensory properties of the product obtained.

[0008] Indeed, the combination of agitation and cooling causes a rupture of the crystalline structure in formation, preventing the crystal lattice from establishing itself correctly. This phenomenon results in a substantial reduction in the hardness of the cosmetic composition obtained, which modifies its sensory properties. In particular, in the case of a lipstick-type cosmetic composition, the product obtained provides a specific, smooth and melting sensory perception. In the case of a hair composition, the product obtained provides particular properties when taken and / or applied.

[0009] The invention thus relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase, comprising the following steps:

[0010] a) a step of introducing into a tank a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance, at least partly solid at 25°C, chosen from waxes, pasties, and their mixtures,

[0011] b) a step of heating the fatty phase obtained in a) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point(s) of the fatty substance(s),

[0012] c) optionally, a step of adding an aqueous phase to the fatty phase of step a) or to the heated fatty phase of step b), to obtain a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, it being understood that when step c) is present, then step b) is carried out on the fatty phase obtained in a) or on the composition obtained in c),

[0013] d) a step of cooling the heated fatty phase obtained in b) or the composition obtained in c),

[0014] e) optionally, a step of remelting the cooled fatty phase obtained in d) or the cooled composition obtained in d),

[0015] wherein stirring is applied either during the cooling step d) or at the end of the remelting step e), said stirring being carried out until a target temperature is obtained within the fatty phase or the composition, said target temperature being less than 90% of the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, and

[0016] f) a step of pouring the stirred fatty phase obtained at the end of step d) or e) or the stirred composition obtained at the end of step d) or e) into at least one container.

[0017] It should be noted that steps a) and c) may consist of only one and the same step. Steps a) and c) are in this case simultaneous. In other words, in the case where it is desired to obtain a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase and a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance at least partly solid at a temperature of 25°C chosen from waxes, pasties and their mixtures, it is possible to proceed as follows:

[0018] an aqueous phase and a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance at least partly solid at a temperature of 25°C chosen from waxes, pasties and their mixtures, can be brought together (steps a) and c)) prior to the heating step b) at a temperature greater than or equal to the temperature of the fatty substance having the highest melting point. The composition obtained after the heating step b) can then be stored, or can be stirred directly after the heating step during the cooling step d) of the composition to a target temperature lower than the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point present in said composition.

[0019] If this composition is stored after the heating step b), then a heating step will again be necessary (called remelting step or step e)) to allow homogeneous mixing of the fatty phase and the aqueous phase constituting the composition. In the same way, the composition thus heated after remelting (step e)) can then be stirred directly after the remelting step to a target temperature lower than the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point present in said composition. The target temperature is preferably lower than 90% of the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, but may still be well below.

[0020] According to this embodiment, the method thus comprises the following steps:

[0021] a) a step of introducing into a tank a fatty phase comprising at least a fatty substance, at least partly solid at 25°C, chosen from waxes, pastes, and their mixtures,

[0022] c) a step of adding an aqueous phase to the fatty phase of step a), to obtain a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion,

[0023] steps a) and c) being simultaneous,

[0024] b) a step of heating the composition obtained in c) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point(s) of the fatty substance(s),

[0025] d) a step of cooling the composition obtained in c),

[0026] e) optionally, a step of remelting the cooled composition obtained in d),

[0027] wherein agitation is applied either during cooling step d), or at the end of the remelting step e), said stirring being carried out until a target temperature is obtained within the fatty phase or the composition, said target temperature being less than 90% of the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, and

[0028] f) a step of pouring the stirred composition obtained at the end of step d) or e) into at least one container.

[0029] According to the invention, it should be noted that steps a) and c) can also be carried out successively. In other words, in the case where it is desired to obtain a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase and a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance at least partly solid at a temperature of 25°C chosen from waxes, pastes and their mixtures, the process can comprise the following successive stages:

[0030] a) a step of introducing into a tank a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance, at least partly solid at 25°C, chosen from waxes, pasties, and their mixtures,

[0031] b) a step of heating the fatty phase obtained in a) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point(s) of the fatty substance(s),

[0032] an optional step c) of adding an aqueous phase to the heated fatty phase of step b), to obtain a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion.

[0033] The composition obtained after heating step b) or optional step c) can then be stored, or can be stirred during cooling step d) of the composition to a target temperature lower than the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point present in said composition.

[0034] If this composition is stored after the heating step b) or the optional step c), then a heating step will again be necessary (called the remelting step or step e)) to allow homogeneous mixing of the fatty phase and the aqueous phase constituting the composition. In the same way, the composition thus heated after remelting (step e)) can then be stirred directly after the remelting step to a target temperature lower than the melting point value of the fatty substance having the highest melting point present in said composition. The target temperature is preferably lower than 90% of the melting point value of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, but may still be well below.

[0035] Preferably, in the case where the cosmetic composition comprises a fatty phase (in particular continuous), the process according to the invention comprises the following steps:

[0036] a) a step of introducing into a tank a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance, at least partly solid at 25°C, chosen from waxes, pasties, and their mixtures,

[0037] b) a step of heating the fatty phase obtained in a) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point(s) of the fatty substance(s),

[0038] c) optionally, a step of adding an aqueous phase to the heated fatty phase of step b), to obtain a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion,

[0039] d) a step of cooling the heated fatty phase obtained in b) or the composition obtained in c),

[0040] e) optionally, a step of remelting the cooled fatty phase obtained in d) or the cooled composition obtained in d),

[0041] wherein stirring is applied either during the cooling step d), or at the end of the remelting step e), said stirring being carried out until obtaining, within of the fatty phase or composition, a target temperature, said target temperature being less than 90% of the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, and

[0042] f) a step of pouring the stirred fatty phase obtained at the end of step d) or e) or the stirred composition obtained at the end of step d) or e) into at least one container.

[0043] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition obtained directly by a preparation process according to the invention.

[0044] The process according to the invention relates to the preparation of a cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase. Such a cosmetic composition is preferably solid or viscous at a temperature of 25°C.

[0045] By "solid" is meant that the composition does not flow under its own weight.

[0046] By "viscous" is meant that the composition flows weakly under its own weight.

[0047] In other words, the method according to the invention is suitable for cosmetic compositions provided at a temperature of 25°C in the form of a stick, a raisin, hot-poured, in the form of a paste or a thick composition, in order to confer new cosmetic properties and / or new sensory properties to these compositions. Typically, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance chosen from waxes, pasties and their mixtures.

[0048] The method according to the invention has less impact on fluid compositions at a temperature of 25°C; it is therefore less suitable for compositions such as solutions, lotions or even liquid compositions.

[0049] The composition according to the invention may be anhydrous, a direct emulsion (O / W) or an indirect emulsion (W / O). When the composition according to the invention is anhydrous or in the form of an indirect emulsion, it has a continuous fatty phase.

[0050] Preferably, the cosmetic composition is a makeup or care composition, or a hair composition, for example a shampoo, a conditioner or a conditioner. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is a makeup composition, preferably a lip or complexion makeup composition, preferably a lip makeup composition, preferably a lipstick. Step a)

[0051] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

[0052] The fatty phase of the composition prepared according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance chosen from waxes, pastes and their mixtures.

[0053] The fatty substance considered is thus a fatty substance which is solid at an ambient temperature of 25°C.

[0054] The fatty phase according to the invention preferably comprises at least one wax or a mixture of waxes. Preferably, the fatty phase according to the invention comprises at least two waxes.

[0055] Preferably, the fatty phase of the composition prepared according to the invention comprises at least two fatty substances chosen from waxes, pasties and their mixtures.

[0056] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax and at least one pasty.

[0057] The first step of the process according to the invention, i.e. step a), is a step of introducing into a tank at least one, preferably at least two, fatty substances chosen from waxes, pasties and their mixtures.

[0058] Preferably, step a) is a step of introducing into a tank at least two fatty substances chosen from waxes. Preferably, step a) is a step of introducing into a tank at least two waxes having different melting points (Tm). Wax(s)

[0059] The wax(es) is (are) generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and which can go up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

[0060] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q2000” by the company TA Instruments.

[0061] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0062] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at the heating rate of 10°C / minute, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the following parameters are measured:

[0063] - the melting point (Tf) of the wax, as previously mentioned, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature,

[0064] - AHf: the enthalpy of fusion of the wax corresponding to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0065] The wax(es) may be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of plant, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0066] A composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one wax chosen from the group consisting of polar waxes, apolar waxes and their mixture.

[0067] The waxes are in particular those described in the document Ulhnann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KgaA,

[0068] Such waxes can in particular be natural but also synthetic.

[0069] By “natural” wax is meant any wax pre-existing in nature or capable of being transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds existing in nature.

[0070] By “synthetic” wax is meant waxes whose synthesis requires one or more chemical reactions carried out by man.

[0071] Among the natural waxes, we can notably cite the so-called fossil waxes including those of petroleum origin such as ozocerite, pyropissite, macrocrystalline waxes also called paraffins - including raw waxes or slack, slack raffinates, deoiled slack, soft waxes, semi-refined waxes, filtered waxes, refined waxes - and microcrystalline waxes called microwaxes including slack wax from "bright stock". Fossil waxes still contain lignite also called montan wax, or peat wax.

[0072] As natural waxes other than fossil waxes, we can cite animal and vegetable waxes.

[0073] Examples of vegetable waxes include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugarcane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax campestris wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, wax extracted from Douglas fir, sisal wax, flax wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice wax, palm tree wax, Japanese wax and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Examples of animal waxes include beeswax, Ghedda wax, shellac, Chinese wax, lanolin also known as wool wax, their mixtures and their derivatives.

[0075] Mention may also be made of ester waxes such as waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting point temperature varies from 30 to 120°C, preferably from 30 to 100°C. In particular, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate, may be used as ester wax. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P”, “Kester Wax K 80 P”, or “KESTER WAX K82H” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. Mixtures of C14-C18 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols can also be used, such as the products "Cetyl Ester Wax" from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, "SP Crodamol MS MB AL", "Crodamol MS" from the company CRODA, "Miraceti" from the company LASERSON. A glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) can also be used, such as LICOWAX KPS FLAKES wax (INCI name: glycol montanate) marketed by the company Clariant. Other examples include hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in C2-C4) can vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerolated units can vary from 1 to 20. Examples include polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba;lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenate or polyoxypropylene, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beewax; wax-derived esters resulting from the reaction between vegetable waxes and a polyglycerol, preferably esters derived from the reaction between a mixture of jojoba, mimosa (Acacia Decurrens) and sunflower waxes and polyglycerol-3, for example the mixture Acacia Decurrens (Mimosa) / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters sold under the name Hydracire S by the company Gattefossé, or the mixture Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Jojoba esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglycerin-3 sold in particular under the name Acticire MB by the company Gattefossé, and mixtures thereof.;

[0076] Waxes that may also be mentioned are fatty alcohols that are solid at room temperature and that contain from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms. As particular examples of fatty alcohols that can be used, mention may in particular be made of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, cetostearyl alcohol (or cetearyl alcohol) may be used, which is a mixture of stearyl and cetyl alcohols.

[0077] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one apolar hydrocarbon wax.

[0078] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax comprising only carbon or hydrogen atoms in its structure. In other words, such a wax is free of other atoms, in particular heteroatoms such as, for example, nitrogen, oxygen, silicon.

[0079] As an illustration of the apolar waxes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes, in particular polyethylene.

[0080] Preferably, the fatty phase of step a) comprises at least one wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C. Preferably, the wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C comprises at least one fatty alcohol.

[0081] Preferably, the fatty phase of step a) comprises at least one wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 70°C. Preferably, the wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 70°C is chosen from paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes and polyethylene waxes.

[0082] Preferably, the fatty phase of step a) comprises at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 2% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 6% by weight, preferably at least 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of at least one wax, preferably whose melting point is greater than or equal to 45°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C.

[0083] Preferably, the wax with a melting point greater than or equal to 70°C is an apolar hydrocarbon wax, preferably a polyethylene wax, and said apolar hydrocarbon wax represents at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of wax(es) in the mixture. Pasty (or pasty fatty body)

[0084] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty body" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0085] In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23°C may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

[0086] The melting point of a solid fatty body can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis”, according to the protocol defined previously.

[0087] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is more particularly equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

[0088] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.

[0089] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is in particular equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter. The enthalpy The melting energy of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0090] The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the quantity of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 23°C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0091] The pasty compound(s) may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin. The pasty compound(s) may be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based.

[0092] The pasty compound(s) may in particular be chosen from: - lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins; - petroleum jelly (also called petrolatum), - polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol and C2-C4 polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. For example, mention may be made of pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol ether comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (5 EO) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol ether comprising 5 oxypropylenated units (5 OP) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more specifically the mixture of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, marketed under the name “Lanolide” by the company VEVY, a mixture in which the constituents are in a weight ratio of 46 / 46 / 8: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil, - polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, - polymeric or non-polymer fluorinated compounds, - vinyl polymers, in particular: • olefin homopolymers and copolymers, • homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, • linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group, • homopolymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, and • homopolymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, - fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or several C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50. Among the liposoluble polyethers, particularly suitable are copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, we will notably cite copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10000, for example a block copolymer of polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) marketed under the brand name ELFACOS ST9 by AKZO NOBEL. esters and polyesters. Among the esters, we consider in particular: • esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular diglycerol esters, with optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C20 monocarboxylic acids, and / or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C6-C10 dicarboxylic acids, in particular condensates of adipic acid and diglycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as, for example, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 marketed under the reference SOFTISAN® 649 by the company Sasol, • vinyl ester homopolymers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (notably sold under the reference Mexomère PP by the company Chimex), • arachidyl propionate marketed under the brand name Waxenol 801 by ALZO, • phytosterol esters, • fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, in particular fatty acid triglycerides, saturated or not, linear or branched, possibly mono or polyhydroxylated, in C6-C30, more particularly C8-C18, possibly hydrogenated (totally or partially); for example with Softisan 100® marketed by the company Sasol, • pentaerythritol esters, • aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid phatic. More particularly, the aliphatic carboxylic acid is C4-C30, preferably C8-C30. It is preferably chosen from hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, nonanoic, decanoic, undecanoic, dodecanoic, tridecanoic, tetradecanoic, pentadecanoic, hexadecanoic, hexyldecanoic, heptadecanoic, octadecanoic, isostearic, nonadecanoic, eicosanoic, isoarachidic, octyldodecanoic, heneicosanoic and docosanoic acids, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a C2-C40, preferably C10-C34, and even more preferably C12-C28 hydroxylated carboxylic acid; the number of hydroxylated groups being between 1 and 20, more particularly between 1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 6.

[0093] Said hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are preferably chosen from:

[0094] a) total or partial esters of saturated, linear and monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids;

[0095] b) total or partial esters of saturated, monohydroxylated, monocarboxylic aliphatic acids;

[0096] c) total or partial esters of saturated, monohydroxylated polycarboxylic aliphatic acids;

[0097] d) total or partial esters of polyhydroxylated saturated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids;

[0098] e) partial or total esters of esters of C2-Ci6 aliphatic polyols with a mono or polyhydroxylated aliphatic acid

[0099] f) their mixtures. • dimer diol and dimer diacid esters, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may in particular be chosen from the esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and mixtures thereof, • hydrogenated rosin esters (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine Chemical) • butters of vegetable origin such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AARHUS-KARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure Babassu SS-(LK) by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, • fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, • hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by NISSHIN OIL, • and their mixtures.

[0100] Preferably, the pasty compound(s) are chosen from:

[0101] - petroleum jelly;

[0102] - pentaerythritol and C2-C4 polyalkylene glycol ethers;

[0103] - fatty alcohol and sugar ethers;

[0104] - copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with alkylenes- long-chain C6-C30 oxides;

[0105] - esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular diglycerol esters, with monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in C6-C20, and / or dicarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, in C6-C10; in particular BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (INCI name),

[0106] - vinyl ester homopolymers having C8-C30 alkyl groups;

[0107] - arachidyl propionate;

[0108] - triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or poly hydroxylated, C6-C30, more particularly C8-C18, possibly hydrogenated;

[0109] - pentaerythritol esters;

[0110] - non-crosslinked esters obtained by condensation of a di- or poly- acid linear or branched C4-C50 carboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, aliphatic esters obtained by reaction of an ester of a hydroxycarboxylic acid and an aliphatic carboxylic acid; advantageously the carboxylic acid is C4-C30,

[0111] - esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, such as dimer dilinoleate esters;

[0112] - butters of vegetable origin,

[0113] - partially hydrogenated vegetable oils,

[0114] - and their mixtures.

[0115] According to one embodiment, the composition comprises from 1 to 20% by weight of pasty fatty substance, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 10 to 15% by weight. Other ingredient(s) in the fat phase

[0116] The fatty phase of the composition prepared according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional fatty substance chosen from at least one hydrophobic film-forming hydrocarbon resin, at least one silicone resin, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (polar or apolar), and mixtures thereof.

[0117] The fatty phase of the composition prepared according to the invention preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably non-volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based.

[0118] Preferably, the fatty phase of step a) comprises, in addition to at least one, preferably at least two, fatty substances chosen from waxes and pasties, at least one hydrophobic film-forming hydrocarbon resin, at least one silicone resin and at least one non-volatile polar or apolar hydrocarbon oil.

[0119] Hydrophobic film-forming hydrocarbon resin

[0120] The hydrophobic film-forming hydrocarbon resin is preferably an indene resin. The term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional.

[0121] The composition may comprise one or more indenic hydrocarbon resins in a total content preferably ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] The indene hydrocarbon resin(s) are preferably chosen from resins resulting from the polymerization in a majority proportion of indene monomer and in a minority proportion of monomer chosen from styrene, methylindene, methylstyrene and their mixtures; these resins may optionally be hydrogenated. These resins may have a molecular weight ranging from 290 to 1150 g / mol.

[0123] Examples of indenic resins include those marketed under the name reference ESCOREZ 7105 by Exxon Chem., NEVCHEM 100 and NEVEX 100 by Neville Chem., NORSOLENE S105 by Sartomer, PICCO 6100 by Hercules and RESINALL by Resinall Corp., or the indene / methylstyrene / hydrogenated styrene copolymers marketed under the name “REGALITE” by Eastman Chemical, in particular REGALITE R 1100, REGALITE R 1090, REGALITE R-7100, REGALITE R1010 HYDROCARBON RESIN, REGALITE RI 125 HYDROCARBON RESIN.

[0124] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon resin which is solid at room temperature (20°C).

[0125] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more resins chosen from indene / methylstyrene / hydrogenated styrene copolymers. In particular, it is possible to use the indene / methylstyrene / hydrogenated styrene copolymers marketed under the name “REGALITE” by the company Eastman Chemical, such as REGALITE R 1100 CG HYDROCARBON RESIN, REGALITE R 1100, REGALITE R 1090, REGALITE R-7100, REGALITE R1010 HYDROCARBON RESIN, REGALITE RI 125 HYDROCARBON RESIN.

[0126] Silicone resin

[0127] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one silicone resin. The term “resin” means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0128] The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

[0129] The letter “M” represents the Monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

[0130] The letter "D" signifies a Difunctional unit RlR2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to two oxygen atoms.

[0131] The letter “T” represents a Trifunctional unit of formula RlSiO3 / 2.

[0132] Such resins are described for example in “Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or even US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484.

[0133] In the M, D, T patterns defined above, Ri, namely RI, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group.

[0134] Finally, the letter "Q" signifies a Tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is linked to four oxygen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.

[0135] Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and number of the radical(s) Ri, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the pendant chains.

[0136] As silicone resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, silicone resins of type MQ, type T or type MQT.

[0137] MQ resins:

[0138] As an example of silicone resins of MQ type, mention may be made of alkylsiloxy-silicates of formula [(Rl)3SiOi / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group RI represents a radical as defined previously, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group,

[0139] Examples of solid silicone resins of the MQ type of trimethylsiloxy-silicate type include those marketed under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, under the name “KF-7312J” by the company Shin-Etsu, “DC 749”, “DC 593” by the company Dow Corning.

[0140] As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 marketed by the company General Electric). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in patent US5817302. T resins:

[0141] As examples of T-type silicone resins, mention may be made of polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RsiO3 / 2)x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes being able to further comprise Si-OH terminal groups.

[0142] Mention may also be made of polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described for example in document US 5,246,694.

[0143] Preferably, polymethylsilsesquioxane resins in which R represents a methyl group can be used, such as, for example, those marketed:

[0144]

[0145]

[0146]

[0147]

[0148]

[0149] - - by the Wacker company under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating CH3SiO3 / 2 units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH3)2SiO2 / 2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10000 g / mol, or - - by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO3 / 2 and have Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups. MQT Resins: As a resin comprising MQT units, those cited in document US 5,110,890 are known in particular. A preferred form of MQT type resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005 / 075542, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference. MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units: (i) (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2)b (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d with - RI, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, - a, b, c and d being molar fractions, - a being between 0.05 and 0.5, - b being between zero and 0.3, - c being greater than zero, - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, - a + b + c + d=l, - provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups. Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the units: (i) (Rl3SiO1 / 2)a (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2)c and (iv) (SiO4 / 2)d

[0150] with - RI and R3 independently representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, RI preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group, - a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, - c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between 0.2 and 0.55, - a + b + c + d = 1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions, - provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the resin siloxane are propyl groups.

[0151] The siloxane resins which can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of: a. an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of (Rl3SiOi / 2)a and (SiO4 / 2)d units - RI representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, - a and d being greater than zero, - the a / d ratio being between 0.5 and 1.5;

[0152] and of

[0153] b) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of (R3SiO3 / 2)c units, - R3 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, - c being greater than zero, - provided that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups, - where the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A / B is 30:70.

[0154] Advantageously, the mass ratio A / B is between 95:5 and 15:85. Preferably, the ratio A / B is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have proven to allow comfortable deposits.

[0155] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as silicone resin, at least one MQ type resin as described previously.

[0156] In particular, the silicone resin is a siloxysilicate resin, preferably a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.

[0157] Advantageously, the silicone resin is present in a content of at least 5% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition, or better from 6 to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] Polar or non-polar oil

[0159] By “oil” is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0160] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (for information 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0161] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0162] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and a fluorinated oil.

[0163] It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0164] Preferably, the oil is hydrocarbon, i.e. it is free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.

[0165] When the hydrocarbon oil is non-volatile and polar, it comprises at least one oxygen atom. In particular, this non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one alcohol function (it is then an “alcohol oil”) or at least one ester function (it is then an “ester oil”). The ester oils which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can in particular be hydroxylated.The composition may comprise one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol; esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids, ester oils, in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms; vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers; dialkyl carbonates and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the . polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from C 10-C 26 monoalcohols, ester oils, and in particular monoesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms in total, diesters, hydroxylated or not, comprising at least 18 carbon atoms in total, triesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, tetraesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0166] When the hydrocarbon oil is non-volatile and apolar, it is chosen from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms. Said oils, linear or branched, may be of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example:

[0167] - paraffin oil,

[0168] - squalane, in particular of plant origin,

[0169] - isoeicosane,

[0170] - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: Cl8-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total,

[0171] - polybutenes, hydrogenated polybutenes, such as for example products of the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers,

[0172] - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as for example Parléam ® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by the company INEOS OLIGOMERS, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by the company EVONIK,

[0173] - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers including the Indopol L-14,

[0174] - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as, for example, PURESYN 10, PURESYN 150 or PURESYN 6 marketed by EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL), Silkflo 366, Silkflo 364 marketed by the company INEOS OLIGOMERS, Dekanex 2008 by the company IMCD,

[0175] - and their mixtures.

[0176] Advantageously, the oil is present in a content of at least 5% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or better still from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] At the end of step a), a fatty phase is obtained comprising at least one, preferably at least two, fatty substances chosen from waxes, pasties and their mixtures, in a tank. Step b)

[0178] According to step b), the fatty phase obtained in a) is heated to a temperature higher than the melting point(s) of the fatty substance(s) (chosen from waxes, pastes and their mixtures).

[0179] This step b) allows the said fatty substance(s) to be completely melted.

[0180] In the case where steps a) and c) are simultaneous, an aqueous phase and a phase fat comprising at least one fatty substance at least partly solid at a temperature of 25°C chosen from waxes, pasties and their mixtures, are mixed (steps a and c)) prior to the heating step b). This step b) allows the said fatty substance(s) to be completely melted in the mixture.

[0181] Typically, this step b) is carried out with stirring.

[0182] At the end of step b), a homogeneous liquid fatty phase is obtained.

[0183] In the case where steps a) and c) are simultaneous, at the end of step b), we obtain in in particular a homogeneous mixture of liquid fatty phase and aqueous phase. Step c)

[0184] Step c) is optional: in fact, it is possible to add an aqueous phase to the heated mixture of step b), to obtain a cosmetic composition in the form of a dispersion or emulsion. The added aqueous phase may be a dispersed aqueous phase. Such an emulsion is then an inverse emulsion (water-in-oil or W / O). The added aqueous phase may be a continuous aqueous phase; such an emulsion is then a direct emulsion (oil-in-water or O / W).

[0185] If this step c) is not present, then the composition obtained is anhydrous (consists of the fatty phase).

[0186] The aqueous phase may consist essentially of water; it may also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0187] The composition preferably comprises a water content representing at least 7% by weight, preferably a content ranging from 7% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the water of the aqueous phase is present in an amount of between 7 and 30% by weight, preferably between 10 and 30% by weight, preferably between 15 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0188] The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the compounds described above, water-in-oil surfactants, volatile oils, aqueous phase thickeners or one of their mixtures. It is understood that the quantity of these additional compounds may be adjusted by a person skilled in the art so as not to harm the effect sought within the framework of the present invention.

[0189] The compositions of the invention may comprise surfactants of the type water-in-oil. Preferably, the surfactant has an HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic balance) of less than or equal to 8, more particularly less than or equal to 7, preferably between 1 and 6. Preferably, it is non-ionic. The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

[0190] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from silicone nonionic surfactants, from hydrocarbon nonionic surfactants, or from mixtures thereof.

[0191] As regards silicone surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with a pendant alkyl or alkoxy chain or at the end of the silicone skeleton having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; dimethicone copolyols, which are more particularly oxypropylenated and / or oxyethylene polydimethyl methyl siloxanes, as well as crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylenated group, and mixtures thereof.Among the particularly preferred silicone surfactants, mention may be made of dimethicone copolyols such as, for example, those sold under the names KF-6015 (PEG-3 dimethicone), KF-6016 (PEG-9 methyl ether dimethicone), KF-6017 (PEG-10 dimethicone), KF-6028 (PEG-9 poly-dimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone), KF-6050 L (PEG / PPG 18 / 18 dimethicone in cyclopentasiloxane), by the company Shin-Etsu; dimethicone copolyols marketed under the names Dow Corning 3225C (PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone in a mixture of cyclotetrasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), DC 5225 C Formulation Aid (PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone in cyclopentasiloxane); or the product marketed under the name SF 1528 GE (mixture of PEG / PPG-20 / 15 Dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane) by Momentive Performance Materials.Alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Methicone (which is more particularly an alkoxylated derivative of Lauryl Methicone containing on average 18 moles of ethylene oxide and 18 moles of propylene oxide, sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning) may also be used; Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone (which is more particularly a copolymer of Cetyl Dimethicone and an alkoxylated derivative of dimethicone containing on average 10 moles of ethylene oxide and 1 mole of propylene oxide) such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt as well as the mixture of cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.

[0192] Preferably, the composition comprises, as silicone surfactant(s), C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol, in particular the INCI name of which is CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE, dimethicone copolyols such as, for example, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG 18 / 18 di- methicone, as well as mixtures thereof. Alternatively, a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol with polyglyceryl-4-isostearate and hexylaurate can be used, such as the product marketed under the name Abil WE-09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (the INCI name is polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexylaurate (and) cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone).

[0193] The non-ionic surfactants may also be chosen in particular from polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 alcohols, (poly)oxyethylenated and / or (poly)oxypropylenated alkyl(C8-C30)- and polyalkyl(C8-C30)-esters; polyoxyethylenated fatty acid polyesters, preferably polyhydroxylated, C12-C20, having from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide; sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters; (poly)glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters and mixtures thereof. As alkyl(C8-C30)- and polyalkyl(C8-C30)-esters of (poly)glycerol, those having a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 4 are preferably used. Examples include polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34 marketed by the company Evonik Goldschmidt); polyglyceryl-3 dii-sostearate (Lameform TGI marketed by the company Cognis), glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, alone or in mixtures.

[0194] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one silicone non-ionic surfactant. Advantageously, the silicone surfactant(s) are chosen from dimethicone copolyols, the alkyl dimethicone copolyols previously described, in particular the C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyols in particular of formula (I), alone or in mixtures. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises at least one hydrocarbon non-ionic surfactant, very particularly the alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of (poly)glycerol and / or sorbitan, and preferably polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, sorbitan isostearate or sorbitan and glycerol isostearate.

[0195] The surfactant(s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer (also called aqueous phase thickening polymer).

[0197] Typically, step c), like step b), is carried out with stirring. Coloring and / or active ingredients

[0198] Preferably, the cosmetic mixture obtained in step b) or c) (i.e. the fatty phase or the composition obtained in step b) or c)) comprises at least one coloring matter and / or at least one active ingredient.

[0199] The coloring matter is typically chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof. The coloring matter may also be a pigment paste.

[0200] The coloring materials may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight.

[0201] By “colorants” we mean generally organic compounds soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in an aqueous or hydroalcoholic phase.

[0202] The water-soluble coloring materials used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes. For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25°C, at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l.As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410, Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Red 40 (CI: 16035), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090). By way of illustration and non-limiting example of sources of water-soluble coloring matter(s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of those of natural origin, such as extracts of carmine, cochineal, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin.Thus, the water-soluble coloring materials suitable for the invention are in particular carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthyn, capsorubin, flovoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof. They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, tartrazine disodium salt and fuchsia disodium salt. Some of these water-soluble coloring materials are in particular approved for food use. As a representative of these colorants, we can more particularly cite colorants from the carotene family, referenced under food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, El00, El40 and E141.According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble coloring matter(s) are chosen from the sodium salts of Yellow 6, Yellow 5, Red 6, Red 33, Red 40.

[0203] For the purposes of the invention, the term "lipo-soluble dye" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring. As lipo-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of lipo-soluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, Sudan brown.As an illustration of natural fat-soluble colorants, we can particularly cite carotenes such as [3-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citra-naxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls. .

[0204] By pigments is meant white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. The pigments may be present in an amount of 0.01 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials). The pigments may be chosen from monochrome pigments, lakes, nacres, pigments with an optical effect, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.

[0205] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0206] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0207] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm. According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 itm. The sizes are measured by laser diffraction using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvem, allowing to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range going from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical theory of Mie scattering. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it allows to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles presents.

[0208] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0209] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres. By "nacres" is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which have a color effect by optical interference. The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0210] Examples of mother-of-pearls that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0211] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0212] Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, “stabilized” means devoid of the effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material can be chosen from metallic sheen particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermal agents monochromes, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0213] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0214] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then transport them. The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0215] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0216] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, chemical-mechanical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

[0217] The surfactant may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments. The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0218] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surface agent, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0219] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.

[0220] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0221] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from surface agents silicones; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0222] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment.

[0223] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.

[0224] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,

[0225] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0226] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0227] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0228] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. We can also cite products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090). Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0229] Preferably, the cosmetic mixture obtained in step b) or c) comprises at least one active ingredient.

[0230] By active, we mean any active agent usable for topical application to the skin and / or hair.

[0231] The active agent, in particular for topical application to the skin, may in particular be chosen from emollients, deodorant actives, antiperspirant actives, moisturizers, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-acne agents, agents promoting hair regrowth, keratolytic and / or desquamating agents, anti-wrinkle agents, tightening agents, anti-irritant and / or soothing agents, vitamins, UV filters, depigmenters, odor absorbers and mixtures thereof.

[0232] The active agent, in particular for topical application to the hair, may in particular be chosen from coloring agents, conditioners, agents giving volume and / or shine to the hair, and mixtures thereof.

[0233] The active ingredient may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight.

[0234] Preferably, the cosmetic composition obtained by the process according to the invention comprises at least one coloring material and / or at least one active ingredient. Step d)

[0235] Step d) is a step of cooling the heated fatty phase obtained in b) or the composition obtained in c).

[0236] When the composition that one wishes to obtain is anhydrous, then the heated fatty phase obtained in b) is cooled.

[0237] When the composition that one wishes to obtain is an emulsion, then the composition obtained in c) is cooled. Step e)

[0238] Step e) is optional: it comprises the remelting of the cooled fatty phase obtained in d) or of the cooled composition obtained in d). This remelting typically comprises the heating of the cooled fatty phase obtained in d) or of the cooled composition obtained in d) to a temperature above the melting point of the fatty phase or composition.

[0239] Preferably, this remelting comprises heating the cooled fatty phase obtained in d) or the cooled composition obtained in d) to a temperature above the highest melting point of the fatty body of the fatty phase or of the composition.

[0240] Typically, the remelting comprises heating the cooled fatty phase obtained in d) or the cooled composition obtained in d) to a temperature greater than or equal to 85°C. Step f)

[0241] Step f) comprises pouring the stirred fatty phase obtained at the end of step d) (after cooling) or e) (after remelting) or the stirred composition obtained at the end of step d) or e) into at least one container. In all cases, the stirred fatty phase obtained at the end of step d) or e) or the stirred composition obtained at the end of step d) or e) is stirred before being poured into the container.

[0242] The container may be in any suitable form. It may in particular be in the form of a pot, a case, a box, or a housing. Preferably, the container is leakproof.

[0243] Preferably, the container delimits a compartment containing the mixture, and it is closed by a closing element. The closing element may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged on the body. Agitation stage

[0244] In the process according to the invention, stirring is applied either during the cooling step d), or at the end of the remelting step e).

[0245] Furthermore, said stirring is carried out until a target temperature is obtained within the mixture, said target temperature being less than 90% of the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point. The stirring applied during the cooling step d) or at the end of the remelting step e) makes it possible to obtain, within the mixture during cooling (i.e. during step d) or at the end of remelting (i.e. at the end of step e), the target temperature.

[0246] The applied agitation allows the mixture to reach a target temperature. This target temperature is less than 90% of the melting point value of the fatty substance having the highest melting point. Preferably, this target temperature is less than or equal to 89% of the melting point value of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, preferably less than or equal to 88%.

[0247] For example, if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one polyethylene wax with a melting point of around 85°C, and this wax is the fatty substance with the highest melting point in the composition, then the target temperature is in- below 76.5°C.

[0248] Typically, this stirring step prevents the normal crystallization of the wax(es) and / or the paste(s) in the mixture. This step makes it possible to obtain effects, in particular sensory effects, hitherto not obtained in the world of solid or viscous compositions (for example, stick or thick cream type).

[0249] Depending on the size and geometry of the tank used, the agitation may vary.

[0250] Preferably, the agitation is constant: it is homogeneous throughout the tank, and it there is no unstirred dead zone of mixing.

[0251] Preferably, according to a first embodiment, the stirring is carried out in a standard tank equipped with a stirring system.

[0252] Preferably, according to a second embodiment, the stirring is carried out in a tank, which defines a volume and has a central axis, as follows:

[0253] Preferably, the stirring is carried out using a stirrer having an axis of rotation and being capable of rotating about the axis of rotation in the tank about the central axis, the tank comprising a bottom and at least one side wall, the stirrer comprising a base and at least one blade, the base extending opposite the bottom of the tank, the at least one blade having a radial edge extending opposite the side wall, the radial distance between the radial edge and the side wall being constant and non-zero over the entire length of the radial edge during the stirring step, the at least one blade having a height measured parallel to the axis of rotation greater than or equal to 80% of the height of the tank measured along the central axis.

[0254] Preferably, the agitator ensures good homogeneity of the temperature of the bulk inside the tank. The specific geometric design of the agitator makes it possible to mitigate the insufficient mixing of standard agitators used in tanks. Thus the temperature of the bulk is homogeneous regardless of the point in the tank, and therefore also the state of crystallization of the bulk.

[0255] Preferably, the radial distance between the radial edge and the side wall is less than or equal to 3 cm, preferably less than or equal to 2 cm, preferably less than or equal to 1 cm.

[0256] Preferably, the or each blade has a helix shape, the helix having a helix angle measured relative to the direction of the axis of rotation, the helix angle preferably being between 20° and 60°, more particularly between 20° and 30°.

[0257] Preferably, the or each blade has a width measured in the radial direction relative to the axis of rotation of between 10% and 20% of the width of the tank measured perpendicular to the central axis. Preferably, the base and the bottom are spaced, at any point of the base, by a dimension less than or equal to 40mm, preferably between 5mm and 15mm.

[0258] Preferably, the base comprises a plurality of radial arms, each radial arm having a radial scraping surface. Preferably, each radial arm has a height measured parallel to the axis of rotation greater than or equal to 10% of the height of the tank measured along the central axis. Preferably, each arm has a height measured parallel to the axis of rotation greater than twice its thickness measured perpendicular to the radial scraping surface.

[0259] In the process according to the invention, stirring is applied either during the cooling step d) or at the end of the remelting step e). In all cases, preferably, it is stopped before reaching the solidification point of the mixture obtained in step d) or e) (first preferred embodiment); or it is carried out at a temperature 5°C or less lower than the solidification point of the fatty substances (second preferred embodiment); or it is carried out at a temperature more than 5°C lower than the solidification point of the fatty substances (third preferred embodiment).

[0260] Preferably, according to a first embodiment, the stirring is stopped before reaching the solidification point of the mixture of step d) or e).

[0261] The solidification point of the mixture of step d) or e) is different from the melting point of the wax(es) and / or paste(s) used to make the fatty phase of step a). This solidification point can be determined using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q2000” by the company TA Instruments:

[0262] The solidification point of the mixture of step d) is determined as follows: a sample of mixture obtained in b) or c) is cooled in step d), and during the cooling of this sample, the crystallization temperature range is measured, i.e. said range being defined by a crystallization start temperature T1 and by a crystallization end temperature T2, with T1>T2. The solidification point of the fatty phase or of the composition of step d) is included in the range [T2; T1], and it is generally close to the value of TL

[0263] The solidification point of the mixture of step e) is determined as follows: a sample of fatty phase or composition remelted in step e) is cooled, and during this cooling, the crystallization temperature range is measured, i.e. said range being defined by a temperature T' 1 at the start of crystallization and by a temperature T' 2 at the end of crystallization, with T' 1 > T' 2. The solidification point of the fatty phase or composition of step e) is included in the range [T' 2 ; T' 1], and it is generally close to the value of T' 1.

[0264] The target temperature, which is less than 90% of the melting point value of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, is preferably included in the interval [T2; Tl] or [T'2; T' 1]. Indeed, over this range, the fatty phase or the composition of step d) or step e) is homogeneous at this temperature.

[0265] To take the example cited above, if the cosmetic composition comprises at least one polyethylene wax with a melting point of around 85°C, and this wax is the fatty substance with the highest melting point in the composition, then the target temperature is less than 76.5°C, and preferably the target temperature is between 70 and 75°C (i.e. interval [T2; T1] or [T'2; T'1]).

[0266] Thus, according to a first embodiment, the stirring is stopped before reaching the point of solidification of the fatty phase or of the composition obtained in step d) or e).

[0267] Preferably, according to a second embodiment, the stirring is carried out at a temperature 5°C or less, preferably 4°C or less, preferably 3°C or less, preferably 2°C or less, below the solidification point of the fatty substances. Preferably, the stirring is carried out at a temperature 2°C to 3°C below the solidification point of the fatty substances.

[0268] The solidification point of the fatty substances corresponds to the fatty substance(s) used to make the fatty phase of step a) solidify(s).

[0269] Preferably, according to a third embodiment, the stirring is carried out at a temperature more than 5°C lower than the solidification point of the fatty substance(s).

[0270] The solidification point of the fatty substances corresponds to the melting point of the mixture of fatty substances used to make the fatty phase of step a).

[0271] Preferably, according to this third embodiment, the stirring is carried out at room temperature (20-25°C).

[0272] Indeed, before casting (step f), if the temperature of the cosmetic composition, preferably lipstick, in bulk decreases to a value close to the solidification point of the fatty phase or of the composition of step d) or e) or the solidification point of the fatty substances, the start of crystal formation occurs. The agitation applied during the formation of the crystalline structure breaks the network being formed. It is preferable to interrupt the agitation just before the solidification point, otherwise a paste may form instead of a solid network.

[0273] The resulting cosmetic composition, preferably lipstick, thus has a lower hardness due to the hindrance to the formation of the crystalline structure up to the casting temperature. Once the cosmetic composition, preferably lipstick, has been cast, waxes having a solidification point lower than the casting temperature can function properly and a cosmetic composition, preferably lipstick, is obtained that is solid and flexible.

[0274] In particular, the application of a controlled stirring step during cooling d) or at the end of remelting step e), and before casting f), makes it possible to obtain more flexible and more melting lipsticks, having a moisturizing effect and a better comfort when applying to the lips.

[0275] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the texture and appearance of a loose lipstick evolves when constant agitation is applied during cooling below the solidification point (e.g. below 70°C). When controlled agitation is applied below the solidification point, a paste can be obtained (from 70 to 50°C), then the consistency decreases sharply until a liquid texture is obtained (constant agitation applied up to 40 at 10°C). Applying controlled agitation while cooling the loose lipstick allows a wide range of textures to be obtained:

[0276] 1. from the solid state (when constant stirring is stopped before reaching the point solidification, which allows the waxes to solidify, giving a solid lipstick appearance): first preferred embodiment;

[0277] 2. into a paste (when constant agitation is applied just below the point of solidification, which allows some remaining crystals to crystallize, which gives an appearance of intermediate firmness and a matte appearance): second preferred embodiment;

[0278] 3. to a liquid / fluid appearance (when constant stirring is applied well- below the solidification point, completely preventing crystallization of the solid, giving a fluid appearance with very low firmness and a shiny appearance): third preferred embodiment.

[0279] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition obtained directly by a preparation process according to the invention.

[0280] The following examples are given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the present invention. The percentages are percentages by weight relative to the weight of composition, unless otherwise stated (% w / w). Example 1 of lipstick according to the invention

[0281] The solid inverse emulsion composition of example 1 according to the invention is obtained according to the following protocol: 1. Preparation of the hot fatty phase (90°C): the phases Al, A2, B, the hydrogenated polyisobutene and the silica are mixed. Then the Regalite, the silicone resin and the isohexadecane are added (steps a) and b) of the process according to the invention), and the mixture is left to cool to 85°C, 2. Preparation of the hot aqueous phase (85°C): phases F and Fl are mixed, 3. Emulsification (suction of the aqueous phase into the fatty phase) at 85°C for 20 minutes (step c) of the process), 4. Introduction of part of the pigments (phase Dl), homogenization, then addition of the other pigments and fillers, 5. Introduction of isododecane, 6. Homogenization for 5 min, then unloading into buckets and cooling (solidification to room temperature; step d) of the process):

[0282] Steps 1 to 6 above for manufacturing a composition in accordance with the invention are carried out in a KRIEGER MMD 30L TANK, equipped with a blade (rotating at 50 rpm), a scraper (rotating at 35 rpm) and a turbine, but also with a double jacket for thermoregulation and vacuum and pressure management, then the composition is discharged into buckets or tanks for cooling to room temperature.

[0283] The contents of these buckets are transferred into a tank equipped with an agitator according to the invention (the tank contains neither a turbine nor a scraper). 1. Recasting and casting (mold packaging):

[0284] In this tank equipped with an agitator according to the invention, the composition is heated to a temperature greater than or equal to the highest melting temperature of the waxes (in this case 85°C due to the presence of polyethylene wax) (remelting step e) of the process), then, to pre-crystallize the waxes, it is reduced to a target temperature of 70-75°C, thus creating a higher viscosity of the mixture which is agitated by the agitator according to the invention (agitation applied according to the invention at the end of the remelting step e)).

[0285] Once the temperature of the composition in the tank is stable, the composition is poured into molds (step f) of the process) to form the lipsticks, which have the characteristic of being softer and more melting than if the latter had been poured as usual at 85°C (without this cooling step); everything is left to cool to room temperature.

[0286] The solidification point for this composition (solidification point of the mixture obtained in d) or e)) is around 68°C.

[0287] Stirring is stopped at around 70-75°C.

[0288] [Tableauxl] Compound (INCI name) Example 1 (% w / w) Phase Glycerin 4.75 Fl Sodium carbomer 0.2 Fl Isohexadecane 6.65 E1 / E2 Isododecane 7.1 G CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE (Abil EM-90 from Evonik Goldschmidt) 2.85 B PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone in dimethicone (X-22-6711D, from Shin Etsu; in dimethicone;25% active ingredient) 0.95 B Polyglycerol-4 Isostearate (Isolan GI 34 from Goldschmidt) 0.95 B Glyceryl Stearate 0.2 Al Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SR1000 from Momentive Performance Materials) 6.5 E2 Hydrogenated Styrene / Methylstyrene / Indene Copolymer (Regalite RI 100 from Eastman) 1.9 El Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 11.5 A / E2 Coco-caprylate / caprate 3.8 A2 Colouring Matter (Pigments, Lakes and / or Titanium Oxide) 8.6 DI Dimethicone (100cSt) (KF 96 A - 100 CS from Shin Etsu) 0.48 A2 Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (Acticire de Gattefosse) 4.3 Al Mixture of paraffin, microcrystalline and synthetic waxes (PARACERA 30540 from Paramelt) 2.7 Al Polyethylene wax (Performalene 500-L from Nucera Solutions) 10 Al Silica 0.95 D2 Lauroyl lysine 1.4 D2; Additives: sodium hyaluronate, NaCl, preservatives, pentylene glycol, pentaerythrityl tetra dibutyl hydroxy-cinnamate Qs Fl Water Qsp 100 F

[0289] When stirring is applied down to a low temperature (stirring performed at a temperature more than 5°C lower than the solidification point of the fatty substances, i.e. third preferred embodiment), the crystal lattice cannot be established properly. In this case, the hardness obtained is a function of the waxes that can still crystallize below the casting temperature. In the specific case of the above formula, polyethylene wax has the highest dropping point (83-92°C). It is therefore possible that this wax cannot completely crystallize when stirring is applied down to a casting temperature below 80°C, which results in a weaker formation of the crystal lattice and therefore of the hardness.

[0290] Example 2 of preparation of another composition according to the invention

[0291] A hair conditioning composition in the form of a paste based on cetearyl alcohol is prepared by the process of the invention. Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols; cetyl alcohol has the highest melting point, i.e. around 50°C. The ingredients of the lipophilic phase are therefore mixed and heated to above 50°C (steps a) and b)).

[0292] The mixture of ingredients is carried out and then cooled (step d), and stirring is applied at a target temperature of 30°C (stirring step of the process), before pouring (step f). Stirring allows a lowering of the viscosity of the composition, and therefore new sensory properties during sampling and / or application.

Claims

Claims

1. Process for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase, comprising the following steps: a) a step of introducing into a tank a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance, at least partly solid at 25°C, chosen from waxes, pasties, and their mixtures, b) a step of heating the fatty phase obtained in a) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point(s) of the fatty substance(s), c) optionally, a step of adding an aqueous phase to the fatty phase of step a) or to the heated fatty phase of step b), to obtain a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, it being understood that when step c) is present, then step b) is carried out on the fatty phase obtained in a) or on the composition obtained in c), d) a step of cooling the heated fatty phase obtained in b) or the composition obtained in c), e) optionally, a step of remelting the cooled fatty phase obtained in d) or the cooled composition obtained in d), in which stirring is applied either during the cooling step d) or at the end of the remelting step e), said stirring being carried out until a target temperature is obtained within the fatty phase or the composition, said target temperature being less than 90% of the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, and f) a step of pouring the stirred fatty phase obtained at the end of step d) or e) or the stirred composition obtained at the end of step d) or e) into at least one container.

2. A preparation method according to claim 1, comprising the following steps: a) a step of introducing into a tank a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance, at least partly solid at 25°C, chosen from waxes, pasties, and their mixtures, c) a step of adding an aqueous phase to the fatty phase of step a), to obtain a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, steps a) and c) being simultaneous, b) a step of heating the composition obtained in c) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point(s) of the fatty substance(s), d) a step of cooling the composition obtained in c), e) optionally, a step of remelting the cooled composition obtained in d), wherein stirring is applied either during the cooling step d) or at the end of the remelting step e), said stirring being carried out until a target temperature is obtained within the fatty phase or the composition, said target temperature being less than 90% of the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, and f) a step of pouring the stirred composition obtained at the end of step d) or e) into at least one container.

3. A preparation method according to claim 1, comprising the following steps: a) a step of introducing into a tank a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance, at least partly solid at 25°C, chosen from waxes, pasties, and their mixtures, b) a step of heating the fatty phase obtained in a) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point(s) of the fatty substance(s), c) optionally, a step of adding an aqueous phase to the heated fatty phase of step b), to obtain a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, d) a step of cooling the heated fatty phase obtained in b) or the composition obtained in c), e) optionally, a step of remelting the cooled fatty phase obtained in d) or the cooled composition obtained in d), in which stirring is applied either during the cooling step d) or at the end of the remelting step e), said stirring being carried out until a target temperature is obtained within the fatty phase or the composition, said target temperature being less than 90% of the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, and f) a step of pouring the stirred fatty phase obtained at the end of step d) or e) or the stirred composition obtained at the end of step d) or e) into at least one container.

4. Preparation process according to one of the preceding claims, in

5. in which step a) comprises mixing in a tank at least two solid fatty substances at 25°C, chosen from waxes, pasties and their mixtures, preferably at least two waxes. Preparation process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the waxes are chosen from ozocerite, pyropissite, crude waxes or slack wax, slack wax raffinates, deoiled slack wax, soft waxes, semi-refined waxes, filtered waxes, refined waxes, microcrystalline waxes, montan wax, peat wax; carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugarcane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax campestris wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, Douglas fir wax, sisal wax, linen wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice wax, palm wax, Japan wax, beeswax, Ghedda wax, shellac, Chinese wax, lanolin; ester waxes such as waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear aliphatic chains,branched or cyclic whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting point temperature varies from 30 to 120°C, preferably from 30 to 100°C, preferably a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, a C20-C40 alkyl stearate, a mixture of C14-C18 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols, a glycol and butylene glycol montanate, polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax, polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba, lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenate or polyoxypropylenated, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin, PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride, polyglycerolated beeswax, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, esters derived from waxes resulting from the reaction between vegetable waxes and a polyglycerol, preferably esters derived from the reaction between a mixture of jojoba waxes,mimosa (Acacia Decurrens) and sunflower and poly-glycerol-3, or the mixture Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Jojoba esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglycerin-3; fatty alcohols solid at room temperature comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol; paraffin waxes, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes, particularly polyethylene and their mixtures.

6. Preparation process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase of step a) comprises at least one wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C.

7. Preparation process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase of step a) comprises at least one wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 70°C; preferably the wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 70°C is chosen from paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes and polyethylene waxes; preferably the wax with a melting point greater than or equal to 70°C is an apolar hydrocarbon wax, preferably a polyethylene wax, and said apolar hydrocarbon wax represents at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of wax(es) in the fatty phase.

8. Preparation process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase of step a) comprises at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 2% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 6% by weight, preferably at least 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one wax, preferably whose melting point is greater than or equal to 45°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C.

9. Preparation process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase of step a) further comprises at least one oil, preferably non-volatile, preferably hydrocarbon-based, preferably polar or apolar.

10. Preparation process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase of step a) further comprises at least one hydrophobic film-forming hydrocarbon resin, and / or at least one silicone resin, and / or at least one preferably non-volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon, polar or apolar.

11. Preparation process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase or the composition obtained in step b) or c) comprises at least one coloring matter and / or at least one active ingredient.

12. Preparation process according to claim 11, in which the coloring material is chosen from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents, pigment pastes and mixtures thereof.

13. Preparation process according to claim 11, wherein the active ingredient is chosen from emollients, deodorant actives, antiperspirant actives, moisturizers, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-acne agents, agents promoting hair regrowth, keratolytic and / or desquamating agents, anti-wrinkle agents, tightening agents, anti-irritant and / or soothing agents, vitamins, UV filters, depigmenters, odor absorbers, coloring agents, conditioners, agents giving volume and / or shine to the hair, and mixtures thereof.

14. Preparation process according to one of claims 11 to 13, in which the coloring matter is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight.

15. Preparation process according to one of the preceding claims, wherein step e), when present, comprises heating the cooled fatty phase obtained in d) or the cooled composition obtained in d) to a temperature above the melting point of the fatty phase or composition; preferably the remelting comprises heating the cooled fatty phase obtained in d) or the cooled composition obtained in d) to a temperature above the highest melting point of the fatty substance of the fatty phase or composition.

16. Preparation process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the stirring is constant.

17. Preparation process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the target temperature is less than or equal to 89% of the value of the melting point of the fatty substance having the highest melting point, preferably less than or equal to 88%.

18. Preparation process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the stirring is stopped before reaching the solidification point of the mixture of step d) or e), and the solidification point of the fatty phase or of the composition of step d) being determined as follows: a sample of fatty phase or of composition obtained in b) or c) is cooled in step d), and during the cooling of this sample, the crystallization temperature range is measured, i.e. said range being defined by a crystallization start temperature T1 and by a crystallization end temperature T2, with T1>T2; the solidification point of the fatty phase or of the composition of step d) is included in the range [T2; Tl], and it is generally close to the value of Tl; the solidification point of the fatty phase or composition of step e) being determined as follows: a sample of fatty phase or composition remelted in step e) is cooled, and during this cooling, the crystallization temperature range is measured, i.e. said range being defined by a temperature T' 1 at the start of crystallization and by a temperature T'2 at the end of crystallization, with T' 1>T'2; the solidification point of the fatty phase or composition of step e) is included in the range [T'2; T' 1], and it is generally close to the value of T' 1.

19. A preparation process according to one of claims 1 to 18, wherein the stirring is carried out at a temperature 5°C or less, preferably 4°C or less, preferably 3°C or less, preferably 2°C or less, below the solidification point of the fatty substances; preferably, the stirring is carried out at a temperature 2°C to 3°C below the solidification point of the fatty substances.

20. Preparation process according to one of claims 1 to 18, in which the stirring is carried out at a temperature more than 5°C lower than the solidification point of the fatty substances; preferably the stirring is carried out at room temperature (20-25°C).

21. Cosmetic composition obtained directly by a preparation process according to any one of claims 1 to 20.