Solid cosmetic composition with eosin

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: An eosin, andAt least 2 fillers chosen from boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride and kaolin.

Description

Title of the invention: Solid cosmetic composition with eosin FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin or the lips, comprising an eosin. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] A constant objective of the formulator in the field of cosmetics is to obtain makeup or care compositions, in particular for the skin or the lips, which form a film whose visual characteristics (color, shade, coverage) and mechanical characteristics (hold, comfort) are satisfactory and are maintained over time.

[0003] The color is provided by coloring materials, and in particular colored pigments (distinct from white pigments). More and more consumers are looking for products with a fairly natural makeup result. In this context, eosins are used in particular, which have the particularity of not tinting the composition in mass (the coloring is not revealed in the composition), but of reacting to the humidity and pH of the lips to release the color instantly upon contact with the lips, with a 'natural color' effect. But the difficulty in formulating these eosins, to guarantee a 'natural color' effect only upon application, is not to make them react with other ingredients in the composition which would make them 'rise in the mass' and thus tint the composition in mass.

[0004] Coverage is generally provided by white pigments and / or fillers. Titanium dioxide in particular is often used for its high opacifying and covering power. But alternative solutions to titanium dioxide are being sought through the use of other compounds that can provide coverage similar to, or even superior to, that of titanium dioxide, without impacting the texture or structure of the compositions, particularly in the case of solid compositions. In addition, these alternative solutions to titanium dioxide must not increase the mass of eosins in the compositions, so that the color is only revealed upon application to keratin materials.

[0005] There therefore remains a need to develop new solid compositions comprising eosins and alternative compounds to titanium dioxide, with good coverage, without mass coloring of the composition but only upon application, and with good structural, application and sensorial properties of the solid composition.

[0006] Unexpectedly, the Applicant observed that the use of at least two fillers chosen from boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride and kaolin, in a solid composition comprising at least one eosin, made it possible to meet these expectations and to obtain good covering and structural properties of the composition, without an increase in mass of the eosin in the composition, for a revelation of the color only upon application to the skin or lips. Statement of the invention

[0007] The invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a cosmetic composition in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0008] (i) An eosin, and

[0009] (ii) At least 2 fillers chosen from boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride and kaolin.

[0010] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] A first object of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0012] (i) An eosin, and

[0013] (ii) At least 2 fillers chosen from boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride and kaolin.

[0014] The term “solid composition” means a composition which does not flow under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called liquid compositions.

[0015] The composition may in particular be in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a cup.

[0016] The hardness of the compositions of the invention, in particular of the sticks, can be measured at 20°C by the so-called “butter wire cutting” method, which consists of transversely cutting a stick of product with a diameter of between 10 and 12 mm, preferably cylindrical in revolution, using a rigid metal wire with a diameter of 250 μm, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram force (Gf) and can be measured using a texturometer of the Texturometer TAXT Plus type. For a stick of a composition intended to be applied to the lips, the minimum value obtained is greater than 35 Gf, preferably 50 Gf, more preferably 60 Gf.

[0017] According to a particular embodiment, the hardness of the composition according to the invention will range from 60 to 135 Gf, in particular from 80 to 130 Gf.

[0018] A person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the method of shaping the stick from the composition of the invention according to its hardness. In particular when the hardness is less than 100Gf, shaping the stick by a so-called "back-fill" method, consisting of pouring and cooling the composition directly in the mechanism of the pack, will be preferred over shaping consisting of pouring and cooling the composition in a mold and then inserting the stick into the mechanism.

[0019] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0020] By "anhydrous" is meant in particular that water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water.

[0021] By 'mass colour' or 'mass shade' is meant the colour or shade of the composition as it is perceived when the composition is packaged and ready for use. This may be the colour or shade of a lipstick poured into a stick or a pan, the colour of a lip gloss packaged in a bottle or any other suitable transparent packaging allowing the colour of the mass of the product to be seen.

[0022] The color of the composition according to the invention, as it is visually perceived when a user looks at it before using it, is different from the color of the composition visually perceived once it has been applied to a support, such as the skin or the lips, in particular the lips.

[0023] This change in color can be objectified by any means making it possible to highlight the differences in color (or even shade) between the composition in its mass and a film of the composition.

[0024] In the case of a solid composition according to the invention, the composition will generally be translucent or substantially transparent in its mass, at the end of preparation, when hot (temperature greater than or equal to the temperature of the melting point of the waxes present), but will tend to become opaque when cooling, due to the presence of waxes.

[0025] By "transparent in the mass" we mean that the composition allows the light and allows to distinguish objects or alphanumeric characters.

[0026] By "translucent in mass" we mean that the composition lets light through but does not allow objects or alphanumeric characters to be distinguished. Eosin

[0027] The composition of the invention therefore comprises at least one eosin.

[0028] By 'eosin' according to the invention is meant in particular tetrabromofluorescein, otherwise known as dye Red No. 21 (INCI name: CI 45380) or Red No. 27 (INCI name: CI 45410), which colors the lips pink, the liposoluble dye Orange 5, which colors the lips orange, and mixtures thereof.

[0029] According to a first embodiment, the eosin is chosen from the dye Red No. 21 (INCI name: CI 45380) or Red No. 27 (INCI name: CI 45410), preferably the dye Red No. 21 (INCI name: CI 45380).

[0030] According to another embodiment, the eosin is the fat-soluble dye Orange 5 of formula

[0031] [Chem.l]

[0032] According to yet another embodiment, the composition comprises an eosin Red 21 with INCI name: CI 45380 and a liposoluble Orange 5 dye.

[0033] As eosin with the INCI name: Orange 5, we can cite in particular the product marketed under the name UNICERT ORANGE K7003 J from the company SENSIENT BEAUTY.

[0034] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one eosin selected from Red No. 21 (INCI name: CI 45380), Red No. 27 (INCI name: CI 45410), the liposoluble dye Orange 5, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of eosin(s) in the composition of the invention will range from 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% relative to the total weight of the composition. Specific charges

[0036] The composition of the invention further comprises at least two fillers chosen from boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, and kaolin.

[0037] For the purposes of the invention, by “fillers” is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the composition medium. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to confer a mattifying and / or blurring effect. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape: platelet, spherical or oblong.

[0038] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least boron nitride.

[0039] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride.

[0040] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to boron nitride and bismuth oxychloride, kaolin.

[0041] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 3% of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1%, or even is free of titanium dioxide.

[0042] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is free of titanium dioxide.

[0043] Boron nitride (BN)

[0044] The boron nitride particles that can be used according to the invention are generally of lamellar or platelet shape. By 'lamellar particle' or 'platelet particle' is meant that the thickness of the particle is less than the width of the particle, in particular the ratio between the width and the thickness of the particle ranges from 2 to 100.

[0045] Boron nitride particles generally have the INCI name: Boron nitride.

[0046] The boron nitride particles usable according to the invention generally have a average size ranging from 1 to 50 pm, in particular from 15 to 40 pm. The particle size can be measured using a laser diffraction distribution method with a Malvern Mastersizer type device, in particular by measuring the D

[50] value, which represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles represents.

[0047] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises boron nitride particles whose particle size ranges from 15 to 40 pm.

[0048] The following commercial references may be cited in particular: BORON NITRIDE SHP-5 and BORON NITRIDE SHP-5L from the company IWASE / Mizushima.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment, the boron nitride included in the composition according to the invention has the trade name: BORON NITRIDE SHP-5 which has a particle size ranging from 15 to 25 pm according to the laser diffraction distribution method.

[0050] The boron nitride particles may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment, the boron nitride particles are not treated.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the content of boron nitride particles in the com position of the invention will range in particular from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)

[0054] Bismuth oxychloride is a salt of bismuth and is generally named INCI: BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE.

[0055] The bismuth oxychloride used according to the invention is in the form of irregular platelets and generally has a size ranging from 6 to 40 μm, measured according to a laser diffraction distribution method described previously.

[0056] We can cite in particular the following commercial reference: PEARL-GLO UVR PG1086 from the company Sun Chemical.

[0057] According to a particular embodiment, the content of bismuth oxychloride in the composition of the invention will range in particular from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Kaolin

[0059] Kaolins are white, friable and refractory clays, composed mainly of kaolinite, or aluminum silicates.

[0060] The kaolin used according to the invention is in the form of microporous particles or plate crystals. These particles may have a hexagonal shape, and they are often fine and lamellar. Their size will generally range from 1 to 2 μm, measured according to the laser diffraction distribution method described above.

[0061] Kaolin is generally called INCI: KAOLIN.

[0062] We can cite in particular the following commercial reference: IMERCARE MATTE from the company Imerys.

[0063] According to a particular embodiment, the kaolin content in the composition of the invention will range in particular from 0.1% to 15%, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the at least two fillers chosen from boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride and kaolin (ii), when they are present in the composition, are present at contents ranging from: - 0.1% to 10% by weight of boron nitride relative to the total weight of the com position; - 0.1% to 10% by weight of bismuth oxychloride relative to the total weight of the composition; and - 0.1% to 15% by weight of kaolin relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty phase

[0065] The fatty phase of the composition further comprises one or more waxes, one or more oils and / or one or more pasty fatty substances.

[0066] Waxes

[0067] According to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise one or more waxes.

[0068] By "wax", for the purposes of the present invention, is meant a compound which is solid at 25°C and which exhibits a reversible solid / liquid state change and a melting temperature above 30°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0069] Mention may be made of microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes, in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of plant origin, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, and mixtures thereof, preferably waxes of plant origin.

[0070] As waxes of plant origin, mention may in particular be made of sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the total content of wax(es) in the composition of the invention ranges from 3% to 25% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] Oils

[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise one or more oils.

[0073] For the purposes of the invention, the term “oil” means a fatty substance, not soluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0074] As oils which can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils, oils of vegetable origin and their mixtures.

[0075] As hydrocarbon oils, mention may in particular be made of alcohol oils, ester oils and their mixtures, preferably ester oils.

[0076] Among the “alcohol oils”, mention may be made in particular of C10-C26 alcohols, more particularly C10-C24, and preferably C12-C22, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, more particularly monoalcohols. More particularly, C10-C26 alcohols are fatty monoalcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty alcohols which may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or natural origin. As particular examples of fatty alcohols which can be used preferably, mention may in particular be made of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Among the “ester oils”, we can notably cite:

[0078] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, propyl gallate; stearate glycerin; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; in particular, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate may be used;

[0079] - fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0080] - synthetic esters such as oils of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri re has the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched one, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri+R2 is >16, such as for example isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-diethylhexyl succinate;

[0081] - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70;

[0082] - esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0083] - esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids;

[0084] - esters of amino acid derivatives; we can cite in particular Di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g. Eldew®);

[0085] and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Preferably, the ester oils used in the composition of the invention are chosen from:

[0087] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, propyl gallate; glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; in particular, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate may be used;

[0088] - esters of amino acid derivatives; we can cite in particular Di (phytosteryl octyldodecyl)N-Lauroyl-L-glutamate (e.g. Eldew®);

[0089] and mixtures thereof.

[0090] As “oil of plant origin”, we can notably cite: Sunflower oil, jojoba oil, castor oil and their mixtures.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more ester oils chosen from hydroxylated esters having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70, esters of amino acid derivatives and their mixtures, and advantageously in addition one or more vegetable oils.

[0092] The total oil content may range from 10 to 90%, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] Pasty fatty body

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more pasty fatty substances.

[0095] By “pasty fatty body” is meant a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0096] Mention may in particular be made of fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, esters of polyol(s) and of dimer diacid of fatty acid, or of one of its esters, esters of hydrogenated castor oil, jojoba esters, oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, vegetable butters such as shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0097] According to a particular embodiment, mention may be made of the esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular the dimer dilinoleate esters, such as the polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Hailucent ISDA from Estenity).

[0098] According to a particular embodiment, the pasty fatty substances are chosen from esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, where appropriate, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, vegetable butters and mixtures thereof. The content of pasty fatty substances in the composition of the invention can range from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients (optional)

[0099] The composition of the invention may further comprise an additional ingredient chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, additional fillers, additional coloring materials and mixtures thereof.

[0100] Lipophilic gelling agents

[0101] By “lipophilic gelling agent” is meant a compound capable of gelling the oily or fatty phase of a composition.

[0102] As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of mineral lipophilic gelling agents, polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] As mineral lipophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of clays which may be modified such as modified hectorites (e.g. bentonites, etc.), pyrogenic silica which may be hydrophobically treated on the surface (e.g. silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate, etc.).

[0104] As polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made, for example, of partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes; block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-propylene, polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-butylene), butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer; associative polymers derived from castor oil such as the gelling agents of the range EstoGel® from PolymerExpert.

[0105] Mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; and triesters of C8 C30 fatty acids and mono- or poly-glyceryl.

[0106] Preferably, oily gelling agents will be used for translucent or transparent compositions such as styrene-based copolymers, dispersed in an oil.

[0107] The total content of gelling agent(s) in the composition of the invention, when they are present, will generally range from 0.2 to 10%, preferably from 0.2 to 5%, in particular from 0.3 to 3% by weight (excluding solvents) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] Additional coloring matters

[0109] According to a particular embodiment, the composition may further comprise one or more additional coloring materials, distinct from eosin, depending on the shade that one wishes to give to the product.

[0110] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. The coloring materials are conventionally chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils and in the aqueous phase) and dyes (soluble in oils or in the aqueous phase).

[0111] Said coloring materials may or may not be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent. According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material(s) are in particular chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments, nacres, dyes other than eosin, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] By “pigments” we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0113] Among the “mineral pigments”, we can cite titanium dioxide, iron oxides, and their mixtures.

[0114] Among the "organic dyes and pigments (e.g. lakes)", we can cite, for example, Blue 1, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Yellow 10, Yellow 11, Red 4, Red 6, Red 7, Red 9, Red 19, Red 13, Red 17, Red 22, Red 28, Red 30 and Red 33, Red 34, Red 36, Red 40, Green 3, Orange 4, Violet 2, carmine, Green 5, Orange 10, Green 6, Sudan red, Sudan brown, and quinoline yellow, their salts, such as a Sodium or Barium salt, or even lakes comprising at least one of said organic pigments, for example those having the name Blue 1 lake (CI 42090); Yellow 5 lake (CI 19140); Yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10 lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11 Lake, Red 6 lake (15850); Red 7 lake (CI 15850); Red 21 lake (CI 45380); Red 22 lake (CI 45380), Red 27 lake (CI 45410), Red 28 lake (CI 45410), Red 30 lake (CI 73360), Red 33 lake (CI 15880), Red 34 lake (CI 15880), Red 40 Lake (CI16035), and / or their salts. “Lakes” are organic pigments comprising at least one organic colorant precipitated on an inert support (otherwise known as a “base”).

[0115] According to a particular embodiment, the composition does not comprise other additional coloring materials other than eosin, or, where appropriate, comprises a white pigment but does not comprise other additional coloring materials other than eosin, so that the mass of the composition is not tinted. In this case, the composition has a so-called 'neutral' tint in its mass.

[0116] According to another embodiment, the shade of the composition in its mass is slightly colored, in the case where it comprises one or more coloring materials distinct from eosin, in particular organic dyes and pigments, and possible white pigments.

[0117] This makes it possible to have a range of products having a mass tint ranging from transparent to opaque, or slightly colored, and whose eosin color is revealed when applied to the skin or lips.

[0118] The total content of additional coloring matters other than eosin, in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Galenic

[0119] The composition of the invention is a care and / or makeup composition for the skin or lips, in particular a lip makeup composition.

[0120] The composition of the invention is generally a solid composition, as defined above.

[0121] As a makeup composition for the lips, we can cite in particular a lip stick, a lip contour pencil, or a lip balm.

[0122] According to a particular embodiment, it will be a solid lip makeup composition, in particular a stick or lipstick.

[0123] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup, preferably in the form of a stick. Cosmetic process

[0124] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0125] According to a particular embodiment, it is a cosmetic process for making up the lips, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the lips, in especially a stick or lipstick.

[0126] The invention will be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. The percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES

[0127] Example 1: Effects of kaolin, bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl) and boron nitride (BN) on the mass structure and color of the composition

[0128] Several tests were carried out upstream to determine the covering power of kaolin, bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride, in comparison with TiO2 (titanium dioxide). A multiplying coefficient of 5 to 20 is thus applied, depending on each load, in relation to the TiO2 content, to obtain the same covering power.

[0129] The aim is to determine whether these fillers have the potential to replace titanium dioxide (TiO2), without impacting the desired coverage effect, nor the structure of the finished product, nor the mass color of the product. In the examples illustrated below, the eosin is Red 21 (CI: 45380). Equivalent results were obtained with Red 27 and respectively Orange 5 as other eosins.

[0130] The different loads tested are as follows: BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE marketed under the name PEARL-GLO UVR PG1086 - KAOLIN marketed under the name IMERCARE MATTE - BORON NITRIDE marketed under the name BORON NITRIDE SHP-5L (35 pm) - BORON NITRIDE marketed under the name BORON NITRIDE SHP-5 (average particle size: 20-25pm according to the laser diffraction method)

[0131] [Tables 1] Phases Ingredients (INCI name) Control 1 (TiO2) - % by weight Test A (BiOCl ) - % by weight Test B (Kaolin ) - % by weight Test C (BN) - % by weight Test D (BN) - % by weight A VEGETABLE WAXES (sunflower, rice, candelilla, jojoba) 18 18 18 18 18 A POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE / DIMER DL LINOLEATE COPOLYMER (HAILUCENT ISDA) 7 7 7 7 7 A PHYTOSTERYL / OCTYLDO DECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE & TO-COPHEROL (ELDEW PS203) 11 11 11 11 11 A OTHER ESTERS AND VEGETABLE OILS 52 52 52 52 52 B TiO2 at 60% IN POLY- GLYCERYL-2 TRIL SOSTEARATE 0.74 B EOSIN (CI 45380) IN DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14 B BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE (PEARL-GLO UVR PG1086) 4 B KAOLIN (IMERCARE MATTE) 8 B BORON NITRIDE (SHP-5L) 3 B BORON NITRIDE (SHP-5) 3 B ADDITIONAL COLOURING MATERIALS (COLOURANTS AND 1 1 1 1 1 ORGANIC PIGMENTS) IN POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE C POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE qs 100.0% qs 100.0% qs 100.0% qs 100.0% qs 100.0% Preparation of formulas

[0132] The ingredients of phase A are weighed into a stainless steel beaker. The beaker is then placed in a water bath at 95°C and stirred (RAYNERI®) at 300 rpm for 15 min.

[0133] The ingredients of phase B are weighed then added to phase A with stirring for 5 min.

[0134] Phases A and B are then mixed using a TURRAX® device at 12000 rpm for 1 min, then placed again in a water bath at 95°C with stirring at 300 rpm.

[0135] The polyglyceryl triisostearate is weighed in the same capsule as that used to weigh the ingredients of phase B, to allow the capsule to be rinsed and the residues of ingredients of phase B to be recovered. It is then introduced into the mixture of phases A + B, placed in a water bath at 88°C with stirring.

[0136] The temperature of the water bath is lowered to 88°C in order to obtain a mixture of phases A + B + C at 85°C. The mixture is then poured into a metal mold at room temperature and left to cool for 10 min. Once cooled, the mixture is scraped and placed in the refrigerator for a period equivalent to 1 minute per cell.

[0137] The different compositions (tests and controls) are then modeled in the form of a stick. Criteria studied

[0138] Several characteristics of the different compositions (tests and controls) are studied: their color (color in the mass and application identical to the control with titanium dioxide), their structure (hardness), and their lead level.

[0139] Tint and color in the mass: a tint deemed to be compliant according to the invention has an application identical to the control with titanium dioxide. The control formula is of rosewood or non-iridescent pink tint.

[0140] Structure and hardness: a structure deemed to be compliant according to the invention is a structured stick, not brittle upon application. A hardness deemed to be compliant generally ranges from 110 to 160g as measured according to the hardness measurement protocol. Hardnesses ranging from 90 to 110g or from 160 to 180g are nevertheless acceptable, because the hardness can be adjusted by playing on the nature and percentage of waxes for example, to tend towards 110-160g. A duration of less than 90g is nevertheless not acceptable (stick too soft).

[0141] Hardness measurement protocol: the hardness of the compositions of the invention, in particular the sticks, can be measured at 20°C by the so-called “butter wire cutting” method, which consists of transversely cutting a stick of product with a diameter of between 10 and 12 mm, preferably cylindrical in revolution, using a rigid metal wire with a diameter of 250 μm, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in Gram force (Gf) and can be measured using a texturometer of the Texturometer TAXT Plus type. For a stick of a composition intended to be applied to the lips, the minimum value obtained is greater than 30 Gf.

[0142] Lead level: a lead level deemed to be compliant is generally less than 5 ppm according to international regulations, preferably less than 1 ppm, or even less than 0.5 ppm according to the present invention.

[0143] Results - observation of the sticks obtained according to the different formulas

[0144] The formula with kaolin has a non-compliant lead level (> Ippm); the other formulas are compliant in this respect.

[0145] The results below therefore illustrate the observations on the structure (hardness) and tint (color in the mass) of the formulas.

[0146] [Tables2] Formula Structure and color of the formulas Witness 1 (TiO2) Non-iridescent color Rosewood mass color Structured stick, not friable on application Hardness: 125-135 Gf Test A (Bismuth oxychloride) Much more iridescent color than the witness Lacks a little white Structure close to the witness Hardness: 140-150 Gf Test B (Kaolin) Non-iridescent color Lacks a little white Structure close to the witness Hardness: 170-180 Gf Test C BORON NITRIDE (SHP-5L) Iridescent color compared to the witness Lacks white Slightly destructured stick Hardness 105-115 Gf Test D BORON NITRIDE (SHP-5) Slightly iridescent color compared to the witness Lacks white Slightly destructured stick Hardness 85-95 Gf

[0147] These results show that, compared to TiO2 and for the same covering power: - bismuth oxychloride alone gives an iridescent, pearly tint, which is not desirable; - boron nitride alone gives a less white color than TiO2, and tends to destructure the stick; - kaolin alone produces a lead level higher than the desired maximum threshold of 1 ppm.

[0148] Thus, none of the fillers between kaolin, bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride, allows TiO2 to be effectively replaced in the formulas, when used alone.

[0149] Example 2: Selection of the load association according to the invention

[0150] Formulas combining these charges (associations with 2 charges or with 3 charges) have been developed and evaluated according to the protocols of example 1. 2.1 Association of two charges

[0151] Two control formulas were used, respectively with 0.04% ('% low') by weight of TiO2 to be substituted for control 2 and 0.74% ('% medium to high') of TiO2 to be substituted for control 1.

[0152] [Tables3] Phases Ingredients (INCI name) Control 2 (0.04% TiO2) -% by weight Test E -% by weight Control 1 (0.74% TiO2) -% by weight Test F -% by weight Test G -% by weight A VEGETABLE WAXES (sunflower, rice, candelilla, jojoba) 18 18 18 18 18 A POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE / DIMER DL LINOLEATE COPOLYMER (HAILUCENT ISDA) 7 7 7 7 7 A PHYTOSTERYL / O CTYLDODECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE & TOCOPHEROL (ELDEW PS203) 11 11 11 11 11 A OTHER ESTERS AND VEGETABLE OILS 52 52 52 52 52 B TiO2 at 60% IN POLYGLYCERYL- 2 TRIL SOSTEARATE 0.04 0.74 B EOSIN (CI 45380) IN DIL SOSTEARYL 0.4 0.4 0.14 0.14 0.14 MALATE B BISMUTH OXY-CHLORIDE (PEARL-GLO UVR PG1086) 0.1705 2 B KAOLIN (IMERCARE MATTE) 1.8 B BORON NITRIDE (SHP-5) 0.1505 2 2 B ADDITIONAL COLORING MATERIALS IN POLY-GLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE 1 1 1 1 1 C POLYGLYCERYL- 2 TRII SOSTEARATE qs 100.0% qs 100.0% qs 100.0% qs 100.0% qs 100.0%

[0153] [Tables4] Formula Structure and color of formulas Witness 2 (TiO2) Non-iridescent tint Non-iridescent pink mass color Structured stick, not crumbly on application Hardness: 95-105g Test E BiOCl + BN Slightly iridescent tint, fairly close to the witness White level (or clarity) close to the witness Structure close to the witness Hardness: depending on the choice of formula 110-120g or 135-145g Witness 1 (TiO2) Non-iridescent tint Rosewood mass color Structured stick, not crumbly on application Hardness: 125-135g Test F BiOCl + BN Slightly iridescent tint, fairly close to the witness Lacks a little white (clarity) but acceptable Structured stick, slightly soft but acceptable Hardness: 95-105g Test G Kaolin + BN Slightly iridescent tint, fairly close to the witness Lacks a little white (clarity) but acceptable Structure close of the witness Hardness: 95-105g

[0154] These results show that, compared to TiO2 and for the same covering power, the combinations of two fillers among bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and kaolin give sticks whose properties (hue and color in the mass, structure and hardness, lead content) are close to those of the control formulas (with TiO2).

[0155] Thus, an association of two of these fillers makes it possible to effectively replace TiO2 in the formulas. 2.2 Association of three charges

[0156] [Tables5] Phases Ingredients (INCI name) Control 1 (0.74% TiO2) - % by weight Test H - % by weight Test I - % by weight Test J - % by weight A PLANT WAXES (Sunflower, Rice, Candelilla, Jojoba) 18 18 18 18 A POLYGLYCERYL-2 ISOSTEARATE / DIMER DL LINOLEATE COPOLYMER (HAILUCENT ISDA) 7 7 7 7 A PHYTOSTERYL / OCTYLDO DECYL LAUROYL GLUTAMATE & TO-COPHEROL (ELDEW PS203) 11 11 11 11 A OTHER ESTERS AND VEGETABLE OILS 52 52 52 52 B 60% TiO2 IN POLY-GLYCERYL-2 TRIL SOSTEARATE 0.74 B EOSIN (CI 45380) IN DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 0.14 0.14 0.14 0.14 B BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE (PEARL-GLO UVR PG1086) 2 2 2.25 B KAOLIN (IMERCARE MATTE) 1.8 1 1 B BORON NITRIDE (SHP-5) 1 2 1.5 B ADDITIONAL COLOURING AGENTS 1 1 1 1 IN POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE c POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE qs 100.0% qs 100.0% qs 100.0% qs 100.0%

[0157] [Tableauxô] Formula Structure and color of the formulas Witness 1 (TiO2) Non-iridescent tint Rosewood mass color Structured stick, non-friable on application Hardness: 125-135g Test H BiOCl + BN + Kaolin Slightly iridescent tint, fairly close to the witness Rosewood mass color, close to the witness Structure close to the witness Hardness: 110-120g Test I BiOCl + BN + Kaolin Slightly iridescent tint compared to the witness White level (clarity) close to the witness Structure close to the witness Hardness: 115-125g Test J BiOCl + BN + Kaolin Slightly iridescent tint, fairly close to the witness White level (clarity) close to the witness Structure close to the witness Hardness: 125-135g

[0158] These results show that, compared to TiO2 and for the same covering power, the combinations of the three fillers (bismuth oxychloride, nitride and kaolin) give sticks whose properties (hue and color in the mass, structure and hardness, lead content) are close to those of the control formulas (with TiO2).

[0159] Thus, a combination of these three fillers makes it possible to effectively replace TiO2 in the formulas. The combination of three fillers makes it possible to obtain even better results than the combination of two fillers described above, and will therefore be advantageous for formulas containing higher % of TiO2 to be substituted.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i. An eosin, and ii. At least 2 fillers chosen from boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride and kaolin.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least boron nitride.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it further comprises bismuth oxychloride.

4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, characterized in that it further comprises kaolin.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is anhydrous.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises waxes whose total content ranges from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises one or more pasty fatty substances.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably is free of titanium dioxide.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the at least 2 fillers chosen from boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride and kaolin (ii), when they are present in the composition, are present at contents ranging from: - 0.1% to 10% by weight of boron nitride relative to the total weight of the composition; - 0.1% to 10% by weight of bismuth oxychloride relative to the total weight of the composition; and - 0.1% to 15% by weight of kaolin relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the boron nitride particles have a particle size ranging from 15 to 40 pm.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it further comprises at least one other additional ingredient chosen from additional coloring materials, additional fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

13. Cosmetic composition according to claim 12, characterized in that it is a lip stick.

14. Cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13.