COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATING HAIR
A synergistic composition of amino acids, osmolytes, carboxylic acids, and esters addresses the issue of hair damage from harsh treatments, enhancing curl recovery and improving hair strength and appearance.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024004726
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-12-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-06
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-27
- Estimated Expiration
- 2034-05-06
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatments, such as those for changing or improving hair color, style, or shape, often damage hair due to the use of harsh chemicals like ammonia and oxidizing agents, leading to issues like dryness, frizz, and breakage, especially in curly hair.
A composition comprising a synergistic combination of amino acids, osmolytes, carboxylic acids, esters, and optionally surfactants and fatty compounds, which are applied to hair to prevent or minimize damage, restore curl shape and definition, and improve hair strength and elasticity.
The composition effectively reduces signs of hair damage, enhances curl recovery, and improves the overall health and appearance of hair, particularly in curly or wavy hair, by providing strength and reducing elasticity while maintaining a healthy moisture balance.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR TREATING HAIR Technical field
[0001] The present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating hair, for example for reviving curls, reshaping curls or preventing, reducing and / or repairing hair damage. CONTEXT
[0002] Consumers desire healthy and strong hair. However, various hair treatments, such as those for changing or improving the appearance of hair, for example by changing the color, style and / or shape of the hair, are known to damage the hair. In addition, repeated styling can damage the hair, for example due to the repeated use of heat and styling tools. All of these processes can break the bonds within the hair fibers, which, if not reformed, results in hair damage.
[0003] Additionally, curly hair poses more problems than straight hair. For example, curly hair tends to be more fragile and more prone to damage than straight hair. Thus, such hair treatments and processes tend to damage curly hair even more than straight hair.
[0004] For example, hair lightening and dyeing compositions and processes typically require the presence of a strong alkalizing agent, such as ammonia, as well as additional compounds, such as oxidizing agents. In order to change the color of the hair, these components must first break down the natural components of the hair fibers. Similarly, hair straightening or relaxing compositions also involve harsh chemicals to change the shape of the hair by breaking the disulfide bonds in the hair fibers.
[0005] It is known that, although such processes effectively alter the color and shape of the hair, the chemical agents used inherently cause damage to the hair and negatively impact the strength, elasticity, and porosity of the hair fibers. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, straightened, straightened, repeatedly styled, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally unpleasant to the touch and appearance. In addition, damaged hair is brittle and / or has increased elasticity, resulting in more frequent hair breakage. In naturally curly or wavy hair, this damage also tends to manifest as a loss of shape and / or curl definition. As a result, consumers are seeking formulations and processes to prevent or minimize such damage and / or repair hair that has been damaged by these treatments and processes. In addition, consumers with curly or wavy hair are seeking formulations and processes that restore and / or improve curl shape and / or definition. Consumers are also increasingly seeking formulations containing natural ingredients and free or substantially free of ingredients considered detrimental to hair, such as silicones.
[0006] However, it has proven difficult to formulate compositions that satisfactorily address these desires. For example, some compositions that attempt to address the problem of damage simply coat the hair with compounds that can improve the feel and appearance of the hair; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Rather than preventing or repairing hair damage, this approach simply masks the damage until the next time the hair is rinsed or washed. Other compositions attempt to treat damage within the hair fiber, but to date, they have not been satisfactory.Finally, given that consumers want to exclude certain components such as silicones, components from non-renewable sources and components that may have a negative impact on the environment, and include certain components such as those that are natural or naturally derived, finding a combination of components that effectively meets both consumer needs and desires has been difficult.
[0007] The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is surprisingly effective in preventing or minimizing hair damage and treating damaged hair, and restoring or reviving curls. Hair treated with the compositions according to the disclosure exhibits surprisingly reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity, and more visible curl shape and definition. SUMMARY
[0008] The present disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating curly or wavy hair, for example, for preventing, minimizing, or repairing hair damage, such as damage caused by harsh chemical compositions and processes, and for reshaping curly hair and enhancing curl recovery. The compositions, which may be in various dosage forms, for example, an elixir, a hair mask, a conditioner, or a deep conditioning treatment, comprise a synergistic combination of one or more amino acids, preferably one or more basic amino acids, one or more osmolytes, one or more carboxylic acids, and a or more esters, and the methods comprise applying a composition according to the disclosure to hair. The compositions preferably include components that are natural or naturally derived, and are preferably free or substantially free of silicone compounds, non-renewable ingredients (e.g., mineral oil and petroleum-based ingredients), and / or ingredients that have negative environmental impacts (e.g., compounds that mobilize heavy metals).
[0009] In various embodiments, the disclosure relates to hair treatment compositions, the compositions comprising: (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, (d) at least one ester, (e) optionally at least one surfactant, (f) optionally at least one fatty compound other than (d), and (g) at least one solvent. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7 or less than about 6, for example, from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4.
[0010] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from basic amino acids, for example, arginine, histidine, lysine, their salts, or combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of basic amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one amino acid selected from acidic or neutral amino acids and their salts, for example, serine.In various embodiments, the total amount of acidic and / or neutral amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 4%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise a mixture of basic, acidic and / or neutral amino acids, for example the compositions may comprise arginine and serine. In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids and their salts present in the composition ranges from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0011] In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of these (in particular, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), and combinations of two or more of these.
[0012] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (II). In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 2% to about 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of total amino acid to total osmolyte that is greater than or equal to about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.
[0013] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one carboxylic acid selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof, and preferably citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In various embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.
[0014] Esters that may be used include branched or linear, ionic or non-ionic esters, for example, mono-, di-, tri-, and / or tetra-esters. In preferred embodiments, the esters are selected from esters of branched C22-C30, preferably C24-C28, fatty acids or fatty alcohols, and optionally have a molecular weight greater than about 500 g / mol, greater than about 750 g / mol, or greater than about 1000 g / mol, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate. The total amount of esters present may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0015] The compositions preferably comprise at least one surfactant, preferably at least one cationic surfactant. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one alkylamidoamine, for example brassicamidopropyldimethylamine. In various embodiments, the composition comprises a total amount of surfactants ranging from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, and most preferably from about 1.5% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the compositions are free or substantially free of behentrimonium chloride.
[0016] The compositions preferably comprise at least one fatty compound other than the esters described herein. The fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, oils such as mineral, vegetable or animal oils, waxes, or combinations of two or more thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise ucuuba butter, lauric acid, cetearyl alcohol and / or cetyl esters. In various embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of fatty compounds ranging from about 0.1% to about 18%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 12%, and most preferably from about 1.5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the compositions are free or substantially free of silicones.
[0017] The solvent may comprise water and / or at least one non-aqueous solvent and, in some embodiments, comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent. Optionally, the compositions comprise water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and have a total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0018] In some embodiments, the compositions further comprise at least one film-forming agent. The film-forming agent may, for example, be selected from anionic compounds or polymers, non-ionic compounds or polymers, amphoteric compounds or polymers, zwitterionic compounds or polymers, cationic compounds or polymers, proteins, viscosity modifiers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyacrylate copolymers, copolymers of polymethacrylate, polyamides, polyaminoamides, polyesters, polysaccharides, polyacrylamides, starches, gums, or combinations of two or more thereof. If present, the total amount of film former may range from about 0.05% to about 15%, for example from about 0.1% to about 12%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, or may range from about 0.05% to about 5%, such as from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In certain preferred embodiments, the film former is natural or naturally occurring, such as a cellulose or a derivative thereof, for example a hydroxyethylcellulose and / or a cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.
[0019] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise (a) at least one amino acid and / or one of its salts, preferably at least one basic amino acid and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one amino acid derivative, preferably at least one betaine, more preferably at least one compound of formula (II), for example glycine betaine, in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (c) at least one carboxylic acid and / or one of its salts, (d) at least one ester, (e) at least one surfactant, (f) at least one fatty compound other than (d), (g) at least one solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and (h) optionally at least one additional component selected from film formers and / or thickening agents, preferably selected from natural or naturally occurring non-ionic polymers and their derivatives.For example, in at least some embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example, from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%, and most preferably from about 4% to about 12%, based on the total weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts, for example, arginine, serine, their salts, or combinations thereof, to the total amount of betaines, preferably selected from the compounds of formula (II) and their salts, for example, glycine betaine, which is greater than or equal to about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids. and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts which is greater than about 0.5 or greater than about 0.7, preferably ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, and more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5.
[0020] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one amino carboxylic acid or one of its salts, preferably selected from arginine and / or one of its salts, (b) at least one betaine derivative, preferably selected from glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid, and / or their salts, (d) water. For example, the composition may comprise (a) from about 2% to about 6% of arginine and / or a salt thereof, (b) from about 0.5% to about 3.5% of glycine betaine, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from citric acid, lactic acid, and / or their salts, (d) at least one ester, preferably selected from esters of C22-C30, preferably C24-C28, branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, (e) at least one surfactant, preferably selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine,(f) at least one fatty compound other than (d), preferably comprising ucuuba butter, lauric acid, cetearyl alcohol and / or cetyl esters, (g) water and optionally at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol, and (h) optionally at least one film former and / or thickening agent, preferably selected from natural or naturally occurring non-ionic polymers and derivatives thereof, wherein the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranges from about 2% to about 10%, and wherein all amounts are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally less than 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. In various embodiments, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 18%, more preferably from about 3% to about 15%,and most preferably from about 4% to about 12%, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to glycine betaine of greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 1, preferably from about 1.25 to about 3.5, more preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably still from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acids and their salts to the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts greater than about 0.5, such as greater than about 0.7, preferably from about 0.75 to about 2, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5. In some embodiments, the compositions include at least one additional component selected from fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations thereof.
[0021] In preferred embodiments, the compositions are in the form of a hair mask or a deep conditioning treatment composition which comprises (a) from about 1% to about 8%, such as from about 2% to about 6%, of basic amino acids and / or their salts, preferably comprising arginine and / or a salt thereof, (b) from about 0.1% to about 5%, such as from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, of osmolytes, preferably selected from the compounds of formula (II), more preferably comprising glycine betaine, (c) from about 1% to about 10%, such as from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, of carboxylic acids and / or their salts, (d) esters of C22-C30 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, preferably C24-C28, preferably comprising pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, (e) at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from cationic surfactants,for example brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and / or lauric acid, (f) at least one fatty compound other than (d), preferably comprising ucuuba butter, lauric acid, cetearyl alcohol, and / or cetyl esters, (g) water and optionally at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably comprising at least one polyol such as propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and (h) optionally at least one additional component selected from film formers and / or thickeners, preferably selected from natural or naturally occurring non-ionic polymers and their derivatives, for example a cellulose or its derivatives such as a hydroxyethylcellulose, wherein all amounts are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the components of the composition are natural or naturally occurring, and the composition is free and / or substantially free of silicone compounds,of components from non-renewable sources and components that have a negative environmental impact. The pH of the composition is generally less than 7, for example ranging from about 2 to about 5, or from about 3 to about 4. ,
[0022] The disclosure further relates to methods of treating hair, preferably curly or wavy hair, comprising applying a composition according to the disclosure to the hair. The methods may be methods for reshaping curly hair and / or enhancing curl or wave recovery, and / or methods for reducing or preventing hair damage, protecting hair from damage, recovering the moisture balance of hair fibers, providing strength to hair fibers and / or improving the elasticity of hair fibers, particularly hair that has been or will be subjected to compositions or processes known to damage hair. The compositions can be left on the hair for an optional application period and, optionally, rinsed from the hair. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0023] [Fig 1A-1B] Figures 1A and 1B show the structures of certain examples of osmolytes that may be included in the compositions according to the disclosure.
[0024] [Fig 2A-2B] Figures 2A to 2C show images of curly hair before and after treatment with a composition according to the disclosure.
[0025] [Fig 3A-3B] Figures 3A and 3B show images of previously bleached curly hair before and after treatment with a composition according to the disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0026] The disclosure relates to compositions and methods for treating hair, particularly curly or wavy hair, for example, for reshaping curly hair and / or enhancing curl or wave recovery, and / or for repairing damaged hair, providing strength to the hair and / or reducing the elasticity of hair fibers. Hair treated with the compositions and methods described herein surprisingly recovers curls that had been significantly diminished due to various hair treatments and processes.
[0027] I. COMPOSITIONS
[0028] The compositions according to the present disclosure comprise (a) at least one amino acid, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one carboxylic acid, (d) at least one ester, (e) preferably at least one surfactant, (f) preferably at least one fatty compound other than (d), and (g) at least one solvent. The compositions may optionally comprise one or more additional components, such as film formers, thickening agents, preservatives, etc.
[0029] Preferably, the components of the compositions are natural or of natural origin, and derived from renewable sources. Amino acids
[0030] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one amino acid. Optionally, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure may comprise one, two or three amino acids. Amino acids that may be selected include those that are basic, acidic or neutral at neutral pH. In preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one basic amino acid.
[0031] As used herein, the term "amino acid" includes amino carboxylic acids and their salts, as well as amino sulfonic acids and their salts. As used herein, amino acids are understood to be organic compounds containing a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) (amino carboxylic acids) and / or sulfonic acid group (-S(=O)2 -OH) (amino sulfonic acids) and an amino group (-NH2) which may be primary or secondary, or may be intracyclic, as well as a side chain (R group) specific to each amino acid.
[0032] Amino carboxylic acids that may be selected include, for example, alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more thereof. Examples of amino sulfonic acids include aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more of these.
[0033] Amino acid salts are also included in the term "amino acid", whether indicated or not. By way of non-limiting example, salts that may be selected include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts.
[0034] Further, the amino acids may be of D, L, or DL configuration. In certain preferred embodiments, it is advantageous to select amino acids of L configuration, for example, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0035] In certain embodiments, it is particularly advantageous to select one or more amino carboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (I): ÇOOH (I) H....... C........ R
[0036] in which:
[0037] - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and
[0038] • when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, knowing that this ring can be substituted with one or more groups chosen from a hydroxyl or an alkyl (C1-C4); or
[0039] • when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group (C1-C12) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (C1-C4), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
[0040] In certain embodiments, when p = 1, R forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this ring not being substituted.
[0041] In some embodiments, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated, straight or branched (C1-C4) alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments, p is preferably 2.
[0042] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more amino acids selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of these (particularly alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least some embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of or consist of amino acids selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of these (particularly alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0043] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lysine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or their salts.
[0044] In various embodiments, the total amount of amino acids may range from about 0.1% to about 15%, such as from about 0.1% to about 12%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5.5%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4.5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3.5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 12%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5.5%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4.5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0,5% to about 3.5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1.5%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5 %, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5.5%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1,5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2.5%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about , 2% to about 12%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5.5%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4.5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3.5%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2% to about 2.5%, from about 2.5% to about 15%, from about 2.5% to about 12%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6 %, from about 2.5% to about 5.5%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4.5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3.5%, from about 2.5% to about 3%, from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 3% to about 9%, from about 3% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, from about 3% to about 5.5%, from about 3% to about 5%, from about 3% to about 4.5%, from about 3% to about 4%, from about 3% to about 3.5%, from about 3.5% to about 15%, from about 3.5% to about 12%, from about 3.5% to about 10%, from about 3.5% to about 9%, from about 3.5% to about 8%, from about 3.5% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6%, from about 3.5% to about 5.5%, from about 3.5% to about 5%, from about 3.5% to about 4.5%, from about 3.5% to about 4%, from about 4% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 12%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4% to about 9%, from about 4% to about 8%, from about 4% to about 7%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4% to about 5.5%,from about 4% to about 5%, from about 4% to about 4.5%, from about 4.5% to about 15%, from about 4.5% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 9%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 4.5% to about 7%, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, or from about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of amino acids ranges from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, or from about 4.8% to about 5.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amino acids may be about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, about 4.9%, about 5.0%,of about 5.1%, about 5.2%, about 5.3%, about 5.4% or about 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits. In certain preferred embodiments, , the compositions comprise a total amount of basic amino acids in any of the preceding ranges and amounts.
[0045] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise arginine and / or a salt thereof. In another preferred embodiment, where more than one amino acid is present, arginine is present in the composition in an amount greater than the combined amounts of the other amino acid(s) present, for example, arginine comprises more than about 50%, such as more than about 60%, more than about 70%, more than about 80%, more than about 90%, more than about 95%, more than about 98%, or more than about 99% of all amino acids present in the composition. In another preferred embodiment, arginine is the only basic amino acid in the composition.
[0046] In various preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 10%, such as from about 2.5% to about 7.5%, preferably from about 3% to about 7%, more preferably from about 3.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 3.75% to about 6.25%, preferably from about 4% to about 6%, more preferably from about 4.25% to about 5.75%, more preferably still from about 4.5% to about 5.5%, even more preferably from about 4.75% to about 5.25%, and most preferably from about 4.8% to about 5.2%, or it may be present in an amount of about 4.5%, about 4.6%, about 4.7%, about 4.8%, of about 4.9%, of about 5.0%, of about 5.1%, of about 5.2%, of about 5.3%, of about 5.4% or of about 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0047] In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise serine and / or a salt thereof. If present, the amount of serine may range from about 0.01% to about 2%, such as from about 0.01% to about 1.5%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, from about 0.01% to about 0.4%, from about 0.01% to about 0.3%, from about 0.01% to about 0.2%, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, from about 0.05% to about 2%, from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, from about 0.05% to about 1%, from about 0.05% to about 0.5%, from about 0.05% to about 0.4%, from about 0.05% to about 0.3%, from about 0.05% to about 0.2%, from about 0.05% to about 0.1%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1.5%, from about 0.1% to about 1% or from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.For example, in certain preferred embodiments, the compositions may comprise serine in an amount ranging from about 0.05% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, and . most preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, such as 0.1%, 0.25%, about 0.5%, about 0.75%, or about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0048] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select at least one basic amino acid and at least one additional amino acid selected from acidic and / or neutral amino acids. For example, in preferred embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one basic amino acid and serine in the compositions according to the disclosure, and to select total amounts of basic amino acids and serine such that the composition has a weight ratio of the total amount of basic amino acids to the total amount of serine that is greater than about 2, such as greater than about 3, greater than about 4, greater than about 5, or greater than about 6.For example, the composition may have a weight ratio of total basic amino acids to total serine of from about 2 to about 15, such as from about 4 to about 14, from about 6 to about 13, from about 8 to about 12, or from about 9 to about 11. In other examples, the weight ratio of total basic amino acids to serine may be about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12. In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises serine and has a weight ratio of total basic amino acids to serine of from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, of about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0049] In still further preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise serine and arginine, and have a weight ratio of arginine to serine ranging from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 12, more preferably from about 9 to about 11, or is about 8, about 9, about 10, about 11, or about 12, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits. Osmolytes
[0050] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example, in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, their salts, and their derivatives, carbohydrates such as sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethyl sulfoniopropionate) and urea. For the purposes of this disclosure, "osmolytes" include amino carboxylic acid derivatives, amino sulfonic acid derivatives, and salts of the derivatives (collectively referred to herein as "amino acid derivatives"), but do not include the amino carboxylic acids, amino sulfonic acids, or their salts that are described above, and do not include polyols.
[0051] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise more than one osmolyte. While not wishing to theorize, it is believed that the use of osmolytes according to the disclosure allows treated hair to maintain a moisture balance, thereby reducing potential hair damage, or to restore a moisture balance to already damaged hair, thereby allowing the treated hair to regain reduced strength and / or elasticity associated with healthy hair.
[0052] In preferred embodiments, the useful osmolytes are chosen from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) or their salts:
[0053] (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (II)
[0054] in which:
[0055] - RI, R2 and R3 are independently chosen from C1-C4 alkyl groups, preferably C1-C2 alkyl groups, more preferably methyl;
[0056] - A is N or S;
[0057] - m and n are independently 0 or 1;
[0058] - X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and
[0059] - Y is -COO- or -OSO3-;
[0060] provided that:
[0061] • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2;
[0062] • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (in C1-C8) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (C1-C4); and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, knowing that this cycle can be substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or alkyl (C1-C4); and
[0063] • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH or -CONH2.
[0064] Useful and non-limiting polyamine compounds may comprise primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. For example, polyamines that may be selected include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polymeric polyamines or polyimines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinylamine, polyetheramine, polylysine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, useful polyamines are selected from putrescine, spermidine, and / or spermine.
[0065] Useful and non-limiting examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Betaine salts may also be used and are expressly included in the term "betaine" unless otherwise indicated. In particularly preferred embodiments, the betaines are selected from those corresponding to formula (II). Examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include the compounds shown in Figures 1A and 1B. As shown in [Fig. 1A], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) are in the zwitterionic form, and as shown in [Fig. 1B], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (II) have a corresponding counterion, X.The counterion is not limited and may be any suitable counterion, e.g., a chloride ion, a bromide ion, an iodide ion, a sulfate anion, a sulfonate anion, a methyl sulfate anion, a phosphate anion, a nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used herein, a "compound of formula (II)" expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound as well as the salt forms, whether or not specified.
[0066] As shown in Figures 1A and 1B, examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as "betaines"). "), for example, valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, and / or dimethyl sulfoniopropionate. In a preferred embodiment, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (II).
[0067] In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II). In additional preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more compounds of formula (II), i.e., a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising in total from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0068] In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R1 = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In certain other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R3 is methyl. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a group selected from hydroxyl or amino.In still further preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene.In other preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (II) wherein R4 and R5, which may be the same or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a saturated, linear or branched (C1-C10) alkyl group, preferably a (C1-C6) alkyl, more preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl; a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted with a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bi-cyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bi-cyclic) substituted with an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted. with one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2; more preferably where R4 is hydrogen and / or where R5 is hydrogen or saturated, straight or branched (C1-C6) alkyl, more preferably (C1-C4) alkyl; optionally substituted with a group selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH or -CONH2. In certain preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted with a hydroxy group. In other preferred embodiments, RI = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if present) is a divalent alkyl group which may be straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.
[0069] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one compound of formula (II) in which RI = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent, linear or branched, preferably saturated alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a group selected from hydroxyl or amino, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, together with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted with a hydroxy group.
[0070] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures 1A and 1B. In more preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise trimethylglycine (name interchangeable with glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine optionally with at least one additional compound of formula (II).
[0071] Useful and non-limiting examples of carbohydrate sugars that may be used include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example, pentoses and / or derivatives thereof, or hexoses and / or derivatives thereof. For example, the sugars may optionally be selected from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxy-ribose, ribulose, deoxy-ribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are selected from disaccharides, for example, sucrose, maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from polysaccharides, for example, maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably selected from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0072] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may range from about 0.01% to about 15%, such as, for example, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 9%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%,from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%, from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2.25% to about 10 %, from about 2.25% to about 9%, from about 2.25% to about 8%, from about 2.25% to about 7%, from about 2.25% to about 6%, from about 2.25% to about 5%, from about 2.25% to about 4%, from about 2.25% to about 3%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2,5% to about 5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may be from about 2.0%, from about 2.1%, from about 2.2%, from about 2.3%, from about 2.4%, from about 2.5%, from about 2.6%, from about 2.7%, from about 2.8%, from about 2.9% or from about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all , ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0073] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one betaine, and the total amount of betaines ranges from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be from about 2.0%, from about 2.1%, from about 2.2%, from about 2.3%, from about 2.4%, from about 2.5%, from about 2.6%, from about 2.7%, from about 2.8%, from about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0074] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises glycine betaine in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or the glycine betaine may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0075] In some embodiments, it may be advantageous to select amounts of amino acids and osmolytes to provide a weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts in the composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the composition that is greater than about 0.1, for example, greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts to the total amount of osmolytes may range from about 0.1 to about 10, such as from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5.In other embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts to the total amount of osmolytes may range from greater than 1 to about 4, such as from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about . 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio of the total amount of amino acid(s) in the composition to the total amount of osmolytes in the composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0076] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise a total amount of amino acids selected from compounds of formula (I) and a total amount of osmolytes selected from compounds of formula (II) such that a weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) is greater than about 0.5, greater than about 0.75, or greater than about 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In some embodiments, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may range from about 0.5 to about 6, for example, from about 1 to about 4, from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2.For example, the weight ratio of compounds of formula (I):compounds of formula (II) in the composition may be about 0.5, about 0.6, about 0.7, about 0.8, about 0.9, about 1, about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.
[0077] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from greater than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25.In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine, serine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. Carboxylic acids
[0078] The compositions according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. Optionally, the compositions may comprise at least two carboxylic acids, at least three carboxylic acids, etc. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that include, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-) or more acidic functional groups and at least one carbon atom.
[0079] The carboxylic acids that may be used may optionally have a molecular weight of less than about 500 g / mol, less than about 400 g / mol, less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight of less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol.
[0080] Salts of carboxylic acids may also be used, and are expressly included in the term "carboxylic acid" unless otherwise expressly indicated. Salts include salts with organic or inorganic bases, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in certain embodiments, and in particular sodium salts.
[0081] In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 14 carbon atoms. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or a salt thereof. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid compounds described above. Useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acid or salified form); they can thus comprise a single -COOH group (monoacid) or can comprise more than one -COOH group, for example two (in acid or salified form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form) (polyacids).Useful (poly)acids also comprise at least one -OH group, such as one to three or two to three -OH groups, for example one, two or three -OH groups. Preferably, the (poly)acids comprise a total of 2 to 8 or 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In certain preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of 3 to 6 carbon atoms, one to three -OH groups, and two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salified form). Unless otherwise indicated, as used herein, the term “(poly)acid” includes both monobasic and polybasic acids.
[0082] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that may be selected include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or a salt thereof.
[0083] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that may be selected include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0084] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or a salt thereof.
[0085] In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts.In some embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to select citric acid, lactic acid and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate and / or sodium tartrate; and preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.
[0086] The total amount of carboxylic acid(s) may range from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 1% to about 15%, including from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 7%, from about 1.5% to about 6%, from about 1.5% to about 5.5%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 4.5%, from about 1.5% to about 4%, from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2.5%, from about 1.5% to about 2%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 12%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 9%,from about 2% to about 8%, from about 2% to about 7%, from about 2% to about 6%, from about 2% to about 5.5%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 4.5%, from about 2% to about 4%, from about 2% to about 3.5%, from about 2% to about 3%, from about 2% to about 2.5%, from about 2.5% to about 15%, from about 2.5% to about 12%, from about 2.5% to about 10%, from about 2.5% to about 9%, from about 2.5% to about 8%, from about 2.5% to about 7%, from about 2.5% to about 6%, from about 2.5% to about 5.5%, from about 2.5% to about 5%, 2.5% to about 4.5%, from about 2.5% to about 4%, from about 2.5% to about 3.5%, from about 2.5% to about 3%, from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, from about 3% to about 10%, from about 3% to about 9%, from about 3% to about 8%, from about 3% to about 7%, from about 3% to about 6%, from about 3% to about 5.5%, from about 3% to about 5%,from about 3% to about 4.5%, from about 3% to about 4%, from about 3% to about 3.5%, from about 3.5% to about 15%, from about 3.5% to about 12%, from about 3.5% to about 10%, from about 3.5% to about 9%, from about 3.5% to about 8%, from about 3.5% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6%, from about 3.5% to about 5.5%, from about 3.5% to about 5%, from about 3.5% to about 4.5%, from about 3.5% to about 4%, from about 4% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 12%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4% to about 9%, from about 4% to about 8%, from about 4% to about 7%, from about 4% to about 6%, from about 4% to about 5.5%, from about 4% to about 5%, from about 4% to about 4.5%, from about 4.5% to about 15%, from about 4.5% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 9%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 4.5% to about 7%, from about 4.5% to about 6%, from about 4.5% to about 5.5%,from about 4.5% to about 5%, from about 5% to about 15%, from about 5% to about 12%, from about 5% to about , 10%, from about 5% to about 9%, from about 5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5% to about 6.5%, from about 5% to about 6%, from about 5% to about 5.5%, from about 5.5% to about 15%, from about 5.5% to about 12%, from about 5.5% to about 10%, from about 5.5% to about 9%, from about 5.5% to about 8%, from about 5.5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.5% to about 6%, from about 6% to about 15%, from about 6% to about 12%, from about 6% to about 10%, from about 6% to about 9%, from about 6% to about 8%, from about 6% to about 7%, or from about 6% to about 6.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0087] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of carboxylic acid(s) ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.For example, in certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, and most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0088] It may be advantageous, in some embodiments, to select amounts of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids greater than about 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids greater than about 0.8, such as greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.1, greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5. In some embodiments, the composition has a weight ratio of total amino acids to total carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, such as about 0.8 to about 1.5, about 0.8 to about 1.35, or about 0.8 to about 1.2.In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and . the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, and most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.2. Esters
[0089] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one ester. Esters that may be selected include, for example, monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and combinations thereof. The esters may be branched or linear and may be ionic or nonionic. In at least some embodiments, the esters are selected from those having a molecular weight greater than about 300 g / mol, such as greater than about 400 g / mol, greater than about 500 g / mol, greater than about 600 g / mol, greater than about 700 g / mol, greater than about 800 g / mol, greater than about 900 g / mol, or greater than about 1000 g / mol. Esters that may be selected may be oils, or may be in the form of waxes or resins which are typically mixtures of different types of esters.
[0090] By way of non-limiting example, the monoesters may be chosen from those comprising from 18 to 40 carbon atoms in total, such as the monoesters of formula R1COOR2, in which RI represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue having from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain which is in particular branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, in which RI + R2 is greater than or equal to 18.Examples of useful monoesters include, but are not limited to, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, isoamyl laurate, isoamyl stearate, isoamyl cocoate, isoamyl caprylate caprate, or combinations thereof.
[0091] Examples of useful diesters include, but are not limited to, those comprising from 18 to 60 carbon atoms in total, preferably from 18 to 50 carbon atoms. For example, diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, preferably such as diisostearyl malate, or glycol diesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, may be selected.
[0092] Non-limiting examples of triesters that may be used include those comprising from 35 to 70 carbon atoms in total, such as triesters of a tricarboxylic acid, for example triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, triisostearin, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, or combinations thereof.
[0093] Examples of useful tetraesters include, but are not limited to, those having a total carbon number of from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters of a monocarboxylic acid, e.g., pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetracaprate, or combinations thereof.
[0094] In at least some embodiments, the esters are preferably selected from esters of C22-C30, preferably C24-C28, branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols. For example, the esters may be selected from triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, etc. In some embodiments, the esters are preferably selected from esters of C22-C30, preferably C24-C28, branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols, and have a molecular weight greater than about 500 g / mol, greater than about 600 g / mol, greater than about 700 g / mol, greater than about 800 g / mol, or greater than about 900 g / mol.In particularly preferred embodiments, the esters comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of one or more esters of C22-C30, preferably C24-C28, branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols that have a molecular weight greater than about 500 g / mol, greater than about 600 g / mol, greater than about 700 g / mol, greater than about 800 g / mol, or greater than about 900 g / mol, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0095] The total amount of esters present may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of esters may range from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3.5%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.25% to about 8%, from about 0.25% to about 7%, from about 0.25% to about 6%, from about 0.25% to about 5%, from about 0.25% to about 4%, from about 0.25% to about 3.5%, from about 0.25% to about 3 ...5%, from about 0.25% to about 4%, from about 0.25% to about 3.5%, from about 0.25% to about 3%, from about 0.25% to about 5%, from about 0.25% to about 5%, from about 0. about 2.5%, from about 0.25% to about 2 %, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 7%, from about 0.5% to about 6%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 4%, from about 0.5% to about 3.5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.75% to about 8%, from about 0.75% to about 7%, from about 0.75% to about 6%, from about 0.75% to about 5%, from about 0.75% to about 4%, from about 0.75% to about 3.5%, from about 0.75% to about 3%, from about 0.75% to about 2.5%, from about 0.75% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, or may be about 0.5%, about 0.75%, about 1%, about 1.25%, about 1.5%,of about 1.75%, of about 2%, of about 2.25%, or of about 2.5%, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper or lower limits.
[0096] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate in any of the above amounts. Solvents
[0097] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one solvent. In various embodiments, the solvent may be selected from water, non-aqueous solvents, or a combination thereof.
[0098] In preferred embodiments, the solvent includes water. In some embodiments, the composition comprises from about 50% to about 98% water, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 95% water by weight, such as from about 50% to about 90%, from about 55% to about 90%, from about 60% to about 90%, or from about 60% to about 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0099] In other embodiments, the solvent may include at least one non-aqueous solvent. Non-limiting examples of non-aqueous solvents that may be used include, for example, glycerin, C1-4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, lamellar lipid materials, or combinations thereof. The non-aqueous solvent may be selected from organic solvents, for example, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl-ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers, such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
[0100] Preferably, the compositions comprise at least one polyol. The polyols may be selected from diols and triols. In other embodiments, the polyols may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12 polyols, C2-C8 polyols, or C3-C8 polyols. In various embodiments, the polyols that may be used are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted polyols. Thus, in various embodiments, one or more polyols may be selected from C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 diols, or C2-C16, C2-C12, C2-C8 or C3-C8 triols, any of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.
[0101] By way of non-limiting example, polyols such as isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl-ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol may be chosen.In some embodiments, the polyols are selected from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol, or combinations of two or more thereof.In some preferred embodiments, the polyols are selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, and combinations of two or more thereof. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solvent comprises at least one polyol selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, . glycerin, or combinations of two or more thereof. In at least some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more C2-C16 diols and / or C2-C16 triols, e.g., C2-C8 diols and / or C2-C8 triols. In other preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises(comprise), consists essentially of, or consists of one or more glycols, for example propylene glycol and / or dipropylene glycol, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one polyol, wherein the polyol(s) comprises(comprise), consists essentially of, or consists of dipropylene glycol.
[0102] If present, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents in the composition may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, such as from about 1% to about 20%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, or from about 2% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In certain preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, preferably selected from polyols.In some embodiments, the composition comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, wherein the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranges from about 0.5% to about 18%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 11%, and most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and further optionally wherein the non-aqueous solvent comprises at least one solvent selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more thereof, preferably selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more of these. Film-forming agents
[0103] Optionally, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one film-forming agent. In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one film-forming agent. As used herein, the terms and expressions "film-forming agent", "film-forming agent", "film-forming polymer", and variations thereof, denote an agent or polymer capable, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a substantially continuous film which adheres to a support, and in particular to keratinous materials such as hair.
[0104] Among the film-forming agents which can be used, mention may be made, for example, of anionic compounds or polymers, non-ionic compounds or polymers, amphoteric compounds or polymers, zwitterionic compounds or polymers, cationic compounds or polymers, proteins, viscosity modifiers, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyacrylate copolymers, polymethacrylate copolymers, polyamides, polyaminoamides, polyesters, polysaccharides, polyacrylamides, starches, gums, or combinations of two or more thereof. In preferred embodiments, film formers, if present, are natural or naturally occurring compounds.
[0105] For example, in various embodiments, the film-forming polymer(s) may be selected from anionic polymers. Without limitation, anionic film-forming polymers that may be used include polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphoric acid and having a number average molecular weight ranging from about 500 to about 5,000,000.
[0106] By way of non-limiting example, anionic film-forming polymers comprising carboxylic groups which may be used include: (A) copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or their salts, such as copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked, copolymers of acrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C1-C20 alkyl methacrylate, for example lauryl methacrylate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, or copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate;(B) crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain and optionally other monomers such as allyl esters or metallyl esters, a vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon chain, such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers optionally being grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another vinyl, allyl or metallyl ester monomer of an α- or [3-cyclic carboxylic acid;and (C) copolymers of C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides including (i) copolymers comprising (a) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides, and (b) at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidated, or (ii) copolymers comprising (a) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride units, and (b) one or more monomers selected from allyl or methallyl esters optionally comprising one or more ; acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidated.
[0107] In various embodiments, cationic film-forming polymers that may be used include polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary, and / or quaternary amine groups as part of or directly bonded to the polymer chain, and having a molecular weight ranging from about 500 to about 5,000,000, and preferably from about 1,000 to about 3,000,000.
[0108] For example, the cationic film-forming polymer may be chosen from: (A) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, such as (i) quaternized or non-quaterized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® by the company ISP, for example Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755 or Gafquat® 755N (INCI name Polyquaternium-11), or alternatively the products known as Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937 sold by ISP (INCI name VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer), (ii) fatty chain polymers containing a vinylpyrrolidone unit, such as the products sold under the names Styleze® W20L and Styleze® W10 by the company ISP (INCI name Polyquatemium-55), (iii) dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,such as the products sold under the names Advantage HC 37 or Gaffix® VC 713 by the company ISP (INCI name Vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer), or (iv) quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® HS 100 by the company ISP (name Polyquatemium-28); (B) cationic guar gum derivatives, preferably containing a quaternary ammonium, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups, for example those sold under the trade names Jaguar® C13 S, Jaguar® C 15 and Jaguar® C 17 by the company Rhodia (INCI name Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride); (C) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; Examples include vinylpyrrolidone / methylvinylimidazolium chloride copolymers, such as the products sold by BASF under the names Luviquat® FC550 or FC370,Luviquat® Excellence and Luviquat® Style (INCI name Polyquaternium-16), or vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazolium methosulfate / vinylca prolactam terpolymers, such as the product Luviquat® Hold sold by BASF (INCI name Polyquaternium-46); (D) chitosans or their salts; the salts that may be used are, in particular, acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate, of chitosan, such as chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate sold under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol (INCI name Chitosan PCA); and (E) cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium, for example the products sold under the names Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by the company Akzo Nobel (INCI name Polyquaternium-4).
[0109] Examples of amphoteric film-forming polymers which can be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed statistically in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers containing carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine, or B and C may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulfonic group linked via a hydrocarbon group, or alternatively B and C are part of a chain of a polymer comprising an ethylene unit a,[3-dicarboxylic acid in which one of the carboxylic groups has been reacted with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.,
[0110] For example, the amphoteric film-forming polymer may be chosen from: (A) copolymers containing acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, α-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, a dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, a dialkylaminoalkyl-methacrylamide and -acrylamide;(B) polymers comprising units derived from (i) at least one monomer selected from acrylamides or methacrylamides whose nitrogen atom is substituted with an alkyl group (for example, N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide, or the corresponding methacrylamides), (ii) at least one acid comonomer; containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups (e.g., acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic or fumaric acid or the alkyl monoesters of maleic or fumaric acid or an anhydride having 1 to 4 carbon atoms), and (iii) at least one basic comonomer such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate (e.g., aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-dimethylaminoethyl or N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates); (C) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan, for example the product sold under the name Chitoglycan by the company Sinerga SPA (INCI name Carboxymethyl chitosan);and (D) partially modified (C1-C5)alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers by semi-amidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine, such as N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine, or by semi-esterification with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkanol.;
[0111] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one non-ionic film-forming polymer. By way of non-limiting example, the non-ionic film-forming polymers may be chosen from polyalkyloxazolines; vinyl acetate homopolymers; vinyl acetate copolymers, for example copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic ester, for example dibutyl maleate; homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, for example copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, such as the products offered by Rohm GmbH under the name Eudragit® NE 30 D (INCI name Acrylates copolymer); copolymers of acrylonitrile and a non-ionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; homopolymers of styrene;styrene copolymers, for example copolymers of styrene, alkyl acrylate and alkyl methacrylate; copolymers of styrene and butadiene, or copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine; polyamides; vinyllactam homopolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers sold, for example, under the names Luviskol® K30 powder by BASF or PVP K30L or K60 solution or K90 by ISP, or such as polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by BASF, a polyvinylpyrrolidone (INCI name PVP); vinyl lactam copolymers, such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl lactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold; under the names PVP / VA® S630L, E735, E635 and W735 by the company ISP, Luviskol ®VA73, VA64 and VA37 by the company BASF (INCI name VP / VA copolymer); and vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinylimidazole terpolymers, for example the product sold under the name Luviset® Clear by the company BASF (INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer).
[0112] In preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one non-ionic polymer which is natural or of natural origin, for example a cellulose such as a hydroxyethylcellulose or a derivative thereof, such as a cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, may be chosen.
[0113] Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides that may be selected include oxidized inulins, celluloses, starches, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, alginate gums, agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, chitosan, gum arabic, xyloses and tragacanth gums, and derivatives thereof, cellobiose, maltodextrin, scleroglucan, chitosan, ulvan, fucoidan, alginate, pectin, heparin and hyaluronic acid, or mixtures thereof.For example, gums that may be selected include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, hydroxypropyl guar, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, karaya gum, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyldextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and any mixtures thereof.
[0114] Other non-limiting examples of polymers that may be used include non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Suitable cationic guar gum derivatives include guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available, for example, as JAGUAR C13S. Other suitable materials include that known as JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17, and JAGUAR® Cl6, which is a cationic hydroxypropyl guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups. Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride may also be commercially available, for example, as N-HANCE CG 13 from Ashland. Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, commercially available as JAGUAR® 162, is also suitable.
[0115] In various embodiments, the film former(s) may be selected from a PVM / MA (poly(methylvinylether-alt-maleic acid) (e.g., sold under the name Gantrez®), carrageenan, gum arabic, oxidized inulin, alginate, xanthan gum, xylan, chitosan, a polyvinylpyrrolidone, a polysilicone 8, a polydimethylsiloxane, a dimethylsiloxane / 3-thiopropylmethylsiloxane copolymer, a vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, a poly(vinyl acetate), a starch, a cellulose, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-11, a crosslinked polymer of acrylates / steareth-2 methacrylate, a copolymer of vinyl / vinyl neodecanoate, polyester-5, cetyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl acetate, crotonate / vinyl neodecanoate copolymer, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) / acrylic acid (AA) copolymer, AMPS / AA / acrylic methacrylate copolymer, polyacrylamide, C13-C14 isoparaffin,laureth-7, octylacrylamide, butylaminoethyl acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, or a mixture thereof.
[0116] The total amount of film former present may vary, but typically ranges from about 0.1% to about 20%, such as from about 0.25% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.75% to about 5%, or from about 0.75% to about 3%, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of film former may range from about 0.01% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 9%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.01% to about 7%, from about 0.01% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 5%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.01% to about 3%, from about 0.01% to about 2%, from about 0.01% to about 1%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.0 ...01% to about 9%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.01% to about 7%, from about 0.01% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about %, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 0.1% to about 1%, from about 0.25% to about 10%, from about 0.25% to about 9%, from about 0.25% to about 8%, from about 0.25% to about 7%, from about 0.25% to about 6%, from about 0.25% to about 5%, from about 0.25% to about 4%, from about 0.25% to about 3%, from about 0.25% to about 2%, from about 0.25% to about 1.5%, from about 0.25% to about 1%, or from about 0.25% to about 0.75%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the at least one film-forming polymer may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 1%, such as from about 0.2% to about 0.8%, from about 0.3% to about 0.7%, from about 0.4% to about 0.6%, or from about 0.5%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Surfactants
[0117] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally comprise at least one surfactant. For example, the compositions may comprise one or more cationic surfactants and / or amphoteric surfactants and, in some embodiments, the compositions may comprise mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.
[0118] Although the compositions may optionally include one or more anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants, in at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants. For example, in some embodiments, the compositions comprise less than about 3%, such as less than about 2.5%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.75%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1.25%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.75%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.25%, less than about 0.2%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.01%, or less than about 0.001% of anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants.
[0119] In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant. The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the composition(s) according to the disclosure. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functionalities in the composition according to the disclosure. Non-limiting examples of useful cationic surfactants include alkylamidoamines and esterquats, such as, for example, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyldimethylamine, risostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride,behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyldimethylethylbenzylammonium chloride (Quatemium-14), Quatemium-22, Quaternium-26, Quatemium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium phosphate POE(10) oleyl ether, diethanolammonium phosphate POE(3) oleyl ether, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyldioctadecylammoniumbentonite, , stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, denatonium benzoate, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquatemium-1, procaine hydrochloride, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyltrihydroxyethylpropylenediamine dihydrofluoride, sulfrimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or combinations thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one alkylamidoamine, for example brassicamidopropyldimethylamine.In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant selected from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, or combinations of two or more thereof.
[0120] If present, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 10%, from about 0.01% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, or from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.In at least some embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one cationic surfactant, and have a total amount of cationic surfactants ranging from about 0.25% to about 8%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 6% and most preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0121] In at least some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant. Non-limiting examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include derivatives of secondary and tertiary aliphatic amines where the aliphatic radical may be a straight or branched chain and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as a carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate sodium, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium masamphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, sodium masamphopropionate, sodium lauriminodipropionate, ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocoamphoacetate, ammonium cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium cocoamphopropionate, ammonium masamphopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauroamphoacetate, ammonium lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium masamphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanolamine cocaminopropionate, cocaminodipropionate triethanolamine, triethanolamine cocoamphoacetate, triethanolamine cocoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine cocoamphopropionate,triethanolamine maizeamphopropionate, triethanolamine lauraminopropionate, triethanolamine lauroamphoacetate, triethanolamine lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, triethanolamine lauroamphopropionate, triethanolamine maizeamphopropionate, triethanolamine lauriminodipropionate, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphoadipropionate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodipriopionate, disodium cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium dicarboxyethylcocopropylenediamine, disodium laureth-5 carboxyamphodiacetate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium oleoamphodipropionate, disodium PPG-2-isodecethyl-7 carboxyamphodiacetate, lauraminopropionic acid, lauroamphodipropionic acid,laurylaminopropylglycine and lauryldiethylenediaminoglycine.
[0122] Betaine surfactants may also be used. For example, one can choose cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, cetyldimethylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)carboxymethylbetaine, stearylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)carboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgamma-carboxypropylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethylbetaine, cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, laurylbis-(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropylbetaine, oleylbetaine, or cocamidopropylbetaine.
[0123] If present, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be up to about 10%, such as up to about 9%, up to about 8%, up to about 7%, up to about 6%, up to about 5%, up to about 4%, up to about 3.5%, up to about 3%, up to about 2.5%, up to about 2%, up to about 1.5%, up to about 1%, or up to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of amphoteric surfactants may be from about 0.001% to about 6%, from about 0.01% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In at least some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of amphoteric surfactants.
[0124] In certain preferred embodiments, the surfactant does not include behentrimonium chloride. In certain preferred embodiments, the surfactant comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more alkylamidoamines, for example, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine. Fatty compounds
[0125] Optionally, the compositions according to the disclosure may include at least one fatty compound other than the esters described above. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound may be selected from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, oils such as mineral, vegetable, animal, silicone and non-silicone oils, silicone and non-silicone waxes, or combinations of two or more thereof. If present, the composition preferably comprises fatty compound(s) that is(are) natural or naturally occurring.
[0126] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, which may optionally be aminofunctionalized. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils that may be used include dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyltrimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone and stearoxytrimethylsilane.For example, the composition may comprise at least one silicone selected from amodimethicone, PEG-7 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-17 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-3 / 10 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4 / 12 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, PEG-8 dimethicone benzoate, PEG-7 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-8 dimethicone phosphate, PEG-10 dimethicone phosphate, or a mixture of two or more thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a silicone oil component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of dimethicone, amodimethicone, or a mixture thereof.
[0127] As further examples, the silicone oil may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylsilicones, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0128] However, in certain preferred embodiments, the composition is free or substantially free of silicones.
[0129] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one fatty compound selected from fatty alcohols. In some embodiments, "fatty alcohol" refers to any alcohol with a carbon chain of C5 or more, such as, for example, C8 or more, C10 or more, or C12 or more, such as 6 to 30 carbon atoms or 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated or unalkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched.
[0130] For example, the fatty alcohols may be selected from arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, hydrogenated tallow alcohol, jojoba alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palm alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, or combinations of two or more thereof. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a fatty alcohol component that comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
[0131] Useful and non-limiting fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include dibasic, tribasic, and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include or be selected from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, salts thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0132] In some embodiments, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohol esters may be selected. For example, esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or poly-alcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10, may be used. In other embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C26 alcohols may also be used. C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or penta-hydroxy alcohols C2-C26. By way of non-limiting examples, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methyl acetylricinoleate, myristyl stearate, octyl isononanoate, isononanoate 2-ethylhexyl, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate,of myristyl or stearyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, glyceryl undecylenate, octyldodecyl stearoylstearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate, triisopropyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate,and / or polyethylene glycol distearates may be selected. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one fatty acid ester and / or one fatty alcohol ester, for example pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0133] In some embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one wax.Non-limiting examples of waxes that may be used include beeswax, hydrogenated olive alkyl esters, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugarcane wax, rice wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated palm kernel glycerides / palm glycerides, palm butter, sumac wax, citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, siliconyl candellila wax, china wax, cetyl palmitate, lanolin, shellac, spermaceti, cetyl esters, hydrogenated castor wax; triglyceride esters such as tribehenin (tribehenate). glyceryl); synthetic waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes and polyethylene waxes obtained by the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, polypropylene waxes, or mixtures of two or more of any of these waxes. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise a wax component which comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more natural waxes, for example cetyl esters.
[0134] In some embodiments, the composition comprises one or more fatty compounds selected from oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin (e.g., lanolin, squalene, fish oil, perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, cucumber oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, wheat germ oil, calophyllum oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, candlenut oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower oil, safflower oil, Ucuuba butter or shea butter), linear or branched hydrocarbons (e.g., example, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecenes such as hydrogenated polydecene,or also linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes which are optionally volatile, such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane), mono- and / or poly-esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols (for example, mono- and poly-esters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyol polyesters, C5-C9 dipentaerythrityl esters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters or hydrogenated castor oil polyesters), perfluorinated and / or organofluorinated oils, fluorosilicone oils, or mixtures of two or more thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids that may be used include optionally branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid,or mixtures of two or more of these.
[0135] If present, the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, such as from about 1% to about 20%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, or from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of fatty compounds may range from about 0.1% to about 15%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 0.5% to about 10%, from about 0.5% to about 8%, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 8%, or from about 2% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0136] In preferred embodiments, the fatty compound does not include silicones. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one fatty alcohol, at least one fatty acid, at least one natural wax and / or at least one vegetable oil / vegetable butter.
[0137] In other preferred embodiments, the fatty compound comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of ucuuba butter, lauric acid, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl esters, or combinations of two or more thereof. In particularly preferred embodiments, the fatty compound includes ucuuba butter, which is present in an amount of about 0.1%, about 0.2%, about 0.3%, about 0.4%, about 0.5%, about 0.6%, about 0.7%, about 0.8%, about 0.9%, about 1%, about 1.1%, about 1.2%, about 1.3%, about 1.4%, about 1.5%, about 1.6%, about 1.7%, about 1.8%, about 1.9%, or about 2% by weight, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0138] It may be particularly advantageous, in terms of providing benefits to the hair, to select amounts of esters and fatty compounds relative to one another. Therefore, in some embodiments, the total amount of fatty compounds in the composition is greater than the total amount of esters. For example, in some embodiments, the composition may have a weight ratio of total fatty compounds to total esters ranging from about 2 to about 8, such as from about 2.5 to about 7.5, from about 3 to about 7, from about 3.5 to about 6.5, from about 4 to about 6, from about 4.25 to about 5.5, from about 4.25 to about 5, or from about 4.4 to about 4.8.
[0139] In other embodiments, the composition comprises at least one vegetable oil / vegetable butter, and has a weight ratio of the total amount of vegetable oils / butters to the total amount of esters ranging from about 0.1 to about 1, such as from about 0.15 to about 0.9, from about 0.2 to about 0.8, from about 0.25 to about 0.7, from about 0.3 to about 0.6, or from about 0.3 to about 0.5. In other embodiments, the composition comprises at least one vegetable oil / vegetable butter and at least one ester chosen from esters of branched C22-C30, preferably C24-C28, fatty acids or fatty alcohols, and the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of vegetable oils / butters and the total amount of esters chosen from esters of branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols C22-C30, preferably C24-C28, ranging from about 0.1 to about 1, such as about 0.15 to about 0.9, about 0.2 to about 0.8, about 0.25 to about 0.7, about 0.3 to about 0.6, or about 0.3 to about 0.5. As a preferred but non-limiting example, the composition may comprise ucuuba butter and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, wherein the weight ratio of ucuuba butter:pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate is from about 0.1 to about 1, such as from about 0.15 to about 0.9, from about 0.2 to about 0.8, from about 0.25 to about 0.7, from about 0.3 to about 0.6, or from about 0.3 to about 0.5, or is about 0.15, about 0.2, about 0.25, about 0.3, about 0.35, about 0.4, about 0.45, or about 0.5, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits. Thickening agents
[0140] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally comprise at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers, and acrylate / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymers, acrylate copolymers, polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEL10), natural polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, related particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, celluloses such as hydroethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and guars such as hydroxypropyl guar.If present, the composition preferably comprises thickening compound(s) which is / are natural or of natural origin.
[0141] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylates copolymer and acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer.
[0142] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01% to about 8%, such as from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Auxiliary components
[0143] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include one or more auxiliary components. Non-limiting examples include preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, salts, antioxidants, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, ceramides, botanical extracts, proteins, protein hydrolysates, protein isolates, hydrotropes, pearlescent agents, buffers, sequestering agents, and the like.
[0144] The total amount of auxiliary components, if present, typically ranges from about 0.01% to about 10%, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the individual amounts of each component or the total amount of components may range from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0145] The compositions according to the disclosure typically have a pH of less than or equal to about 7, such as less than or equal to about 6, less than or equal to about 5, less than or equal to about 4.5, or less than or equal to about 4. For example, the compositions may have a pH ranging from about 1 to about 7, such as from about 2 to about 6, from about 2.5 to about 5.5, from about 2.5 to about 5, from about 2.5 to about 4.5, or from about 3 to about 4. In some embodiments, the pH of the composition may be, for example, about 3, about 3.25, about 3.5, about 3.75, or about 4, including all ranges and subranges therein.
[0146] The compositions may be in any suitable form. For example, the compositions may be a liquid, a gel, a cream-gel, a high, medium or low density cream, a serum, a lotion, etc. In preferred embodiments, the compositions are hair masks or deep conditioning treatments that are in the form of a lotion or cream. II. METHODS
[0147] The disclosure further relates to methods of treating hair, particularly curly or wavy hair. The methods of treating hair may be methods of restoring or improving the shape and / or definition of curls. Surprisingly, the shape and / or definition of curls obtained with the compositions according to the disclosure may be long-lasting. For example, the shape and / or definition of curls may persist through one or more hair wash cycles, for example two or more, or even three or more.
[0148] Methods of treating hair may be methods of reducing or preventing damage to hair, protecting hair from damage, restoring the moisture balance of hair fibers, providing strength to hair fibers, improving the elasticity of hair fibers and / or maintaining the moisture balance, strength and / or elasticity of hair fibers. In some embodiments, the hair treatment methods prevent hair damage from becoming so severe that it cannot be repaired, i.e., prevent irreversible hair damage.
[0149] The methods include applying a composition according to the disclosure (a "curl revitalizing composition") to the hair, optionally leaving the composition on the hair for a period of time ("processing time", "resting period" or "setting period"), and optionally rinsing the composition from the hair. The methods may optionally include repeating the treatment at least once, such as at least twice, at least three times, at least four times, at least five times, etc., or as needed to revive or restore curl definition and / or treat the hair.
[0150] The application period may be for a time deemed appropriate to allow the active agents to provide benefits to the hair, such as about 30 seconds, about 1 minute, about 2 minutes, about 5 minutes, about 10 minutes, about 15 minutes, about 20 minutes, about 30 minutes, about 45 minutes, about 1 hour, about 2 hours, about 4 hours, about 6 hours, about 8 hours, about 10 hours, about 12 hours, about 16 hours, about 20 hours, about 24 hours, etc., or may vary by a period of time using any of the foregoing values as upper and lower limits.By way of non-limiting example, the application period may range from approximately 2 minutes to approximately 4 hours, from approximately 5 minutes to approximately 2 hours, from approximately 10 minutes to approximately 1.5 hours, from approximately 20 minutes to approximately 1 hour, from approximately 1 hour to approximately 12 hours, from approximately 2 hours to approximately 10 hours, from approximately 4 hours to approximately 8 hours, from approximately 8 hours to approximately 24 hours, from approximately 8 hours to approximately 12 hours, etc. For example, an application time may be overnight or until the next rinsing or shampooing of the hair according to the user's usual hygiene rules.
[0151] Although not necessary, methods of using the compositions of the disclosure may also include a step of heating the hair to which the composition has been applied, for example during the resting period while the composition is on the hair. For example, a hair dryer, a hair dryer hood, etc., may be used.
[0152] At least in some embodiments, the hair that may be treated according to the methods described herein may be hair that has been previously bleached, dyed, straightened, relaxed, etc. It will be understood that the hair that is treated according to various methods described herein may be hair that has been previously subjected to such chemical treatments and therefore need to be repaired, have curls reshaped, have curls revived or the like. Thus, the processes may occur within any period of time after such a chemical treatment following which the benefits of repair, curl reshaping, curl revitalization, etc. are desired. For example, the processes may occur within six months of a chemical treatment, such as bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, etc., such as within five months, within four months, within three months, within two months, within one month, within three weeks, within two weeks, within one week, within five days, within four days, within three days, within two days, within one day, within 12 hours, within 8 hours, within 6 hours, within 4 hours, within 2 hours, or within one hour of such treatment.The period during which it is contemplated to implement the methods according to the disclosure is not limited.
[0153] In an exemplary embodiment, a composition according to the disclosure may be applied to hair, for example, to reshape or revive curls or waves, to improve the overall health and appearance of curls or waves, to improve the elasticity of hair fibers, to prevent or reduce damage to hair fibers, etc., by applying a composition to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate processing time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then, optionally, drying and / or styling the hair according to the individual's routine.
[0154] In other exemplary embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure may be applied to the hair before, during, and / or after a chemical hair treatment process. For example, such a routine may include applying a composition according to the disclosure to wet, damp, or dry hair, leaving the composition on the hair for an appropriate treatment time, optionally rinsing the hair, and then substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., as part of the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with intervening rinsing of the hair, applying a chemical treatment such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, or perming composition to the hair.Another such routine may include applying a chemical treatment, such as a bleaching, dyeing, straightening, relaxing, or perming composition, to the hair, and substantially immediately thereafter (i.e., as part of the same chemical hair treatment process), preferably with an intervening rinsing of the hair, applying to the hair a composition according to the disclosure. Thus, it is contemplated that the compositions according to the disclosure may be incorporated into a chemical hair treatment process, thereby reducing, minimizing, or . prevent damage to hair that might otherwise result from such harsh chemical treatments. By incorporating such compositions into chemical treatment processes, the shape or definition of curls or waves can be maintained.
[0155] Surprisingly, hair treated with compositions and methods according to the disclosure exhibits less damage than hair not treated with compositions and methods according to the disclosure and, as a result, greater curl retention or recovery. The reduction in damage is particularly notable on hair damaged due to harsh chemical treatments, such as bleaching, dyeing, perming, straightening, relaxing, etc., as well as due to repeated styling, for example with heat or styling tools. Hair repaired using compositions and methods according to the disclosure may have lower elasticity and / or higher tensile strength than similarly damaged hair not treated according to the disclosure, as well as more defined curls and waves.
[0156] The expression "and / or" should be understood to include both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, "amino acids and / or salts thereof" means "amino acids and salts thereof" as well as "amino acids or salts thereof", and expressly covers cases of either.
[0157] As used herein, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counterion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not limiting. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example, in an aqueous solution.
[0158] The terms and phrases "curls," "curly hair," "waves," or the like, which are used interchangeably herein, refer to any hair including a curl or wave. The degree of curl of the hair may vary and is not limited. The curl may be natural or unnatural, i.e., formed by chemical or physical treatment of the hair, although it is preferred that the curl be natural.
[0159] As used herein, the term "applying a composition to the hair," and variations thereof, is intended to mean contacting the hair with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure in any manner. It may also mean contacting the hair in an effective amount.
[0160] The term "treating the hair" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to applying the compositions of the present disclosure to the surface of the hair. The term "treating the hair" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting the hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.
[0161] As used herein, the phrases "revive curls," "enhance curl recovery," "reshape curls," "reshape curly hair," or the like, are intended to mean that the intensity and / or shape of the curl or wave of the hair, which may have been reduced as a result of damage, is increased by treatment with compositions or methods described herein. An increase in curl or wave can be any increase, for example, an increase in curl shape and / or an increase in curl definition. It will be understood, however, that an increase in curl provided by the compositions and methods according to the disclosure is due to the compositions and methods restoring curl or wave to the hair, rather than providing curl or wave to naturally straight, unpermed hair.As is known, an increase in curl or wave may be observed visually, for example when treated hair appears curlier than pre-treated hair, or when the curls or waves appear more defined; it may be determined by measuring the length of a strand of hair, with a shorter strand of hair being considered curlier than a longer strand; or it may be determined by any other accepted method.
[0162] As used herein, the terms "curl revitalizing composition," "curl restoring composition," or the like refer to a composition according to the disclosure. These compositions may restore or revive curls to any degree, without limitation. However, in at least some embodiments, the degree of curl revitalization may be at least about 10%, at least about 12%, at least about 15%, at least about 18%, at least about 20%, at least about 22%, or at least about 25% relative to the hair before treatment.
[0163] As used herein, the term "natural" and the expression "naturally occurring" refer to a material of natural origin, for example of plant origin, which may or may not be subsequently chemically or physically modified.
[0164] As used herein, the term "component having a negative environmental impact" and its variations means any component that may itself have a negative environmental impact, or any component whose harvesting, processing, etc., may have a negative environmental impact.
[0165] For the purposes of this disclosure, the terms "vegetable oil" and "vegetable oil / vegetable butter" are intended to include both oils and butters (e.g., ucuuba oil and ucuuba butter), unless expressly stated otherwise. EXAMPLES
[0166] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active ingredients, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Compositions
[0167] Compositions IA and IB according to the disclosure were prepared as shown in Table 1.
[0168] [Table 1]
[0169] [Tables 1] IA IB Basic amino acid(s) 3.8 3.8 Thickening agent(s) 0.9 0.9 Nonionic surfactant(s) 0.5 0.5 Cationic surfactant(s) 3.0 3.0 Glycine betaine 1.8 1.8 Citric acid 5.5 5.5 Wax(s) 0.5 0.5 Fatty alcohol(s) 6.3 6.3 Vegetable oil(s) 0.5 Ester(s) 2.5 1.5 Additives (preservatives, perfume, vitamins) <2 <2 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) Qs per 100 Qs per 100
[0170] Compositions IA and IB, which include a combination of amino acids (arginine), osmolytes (trimethylglycine), carboxylic acids (citric acid), esters (pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate), surfactants and fatty compounds are hair mask compositions free of silicone compounds and include more than 70% components from renewable sources. Composition IB includes a vegetable oil (ucuuba butter) in addition to waxes and fatty alcohols.
[0171] Example 2- Evaluation of curl recovery and cosmetic benefits
[0172] The following studies were conducted to evaluate the effectiveness of the compositions according to the disclosure for reviving or recovering curls, providing curl definition and providing cosmetic benefits to treated hair. Example 2A#- Leave-in treatment
[0173] Equal amounts of composition IA or IB were applied to three strands of Caucasian curly hair. The compositions were left on the hair and the strands were air-dried at room temperature.
[0174] [Fig. 2C] shows the strands before treatment, and Figures 2A and 2B show the strands after treatment with compositions IA and IB, respectively. As Figures 2A to 2C demonstrate, the degree of curl and curl definition restored to the hair with the treatment according to the disclosure is significant. In addition, the strands exhibit a significant reduction in frizz and volume, and increased shine and smooth texture. Example 2B#- Treatment with rinsing
[0175] Equal amounts of composition IB were applied to six strands of previously bleached curly Caucasian hair. The compositions were rinsed from the hair and the strands were allowed to air dry at room temperature.
[0176] [Fig. 3A] shows images of three strands bleached using a standard bleaching protocol at room temperature (27°C) before and after treatment with Composition IB, and [Fig. 3B] shows images of three strands bleached using an accelerated bleaching protocol at increased temperature (37°C) before and after treatment with Composition IB. As Figures 3A and 3B demonstrate, the bleached hair before treatment had lost curl definition, but the degree of curl and curl definition restored to the hair after treatment is significant. In addition, the strands exhibit a notable reduction in frizz and volume, and increased shine and smooth texture after treatment.
[0177] Example 2 demonstrates that the compositions according to the disclosure surprisingly and unexpectedly restore curl and curl definition to damaged hair and provide cosmetic benefits to treated hair.
Claims
Claims
1. A hair treatment composition comprising: a. at least one compound selected from amino acids or their salts; b. at least one osmolyte; c. at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; d. at least one ester; e. optionally at least one surfactant; f. optionally at least one fatty compound other than d); and g. at least one solvent, wherein the total amount of amino acids and their salts ranges from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and wherein the total amount of osmolytes ranges from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
2. A composition according to claim 1, comprising a) at least one amino acid selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof.
3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, comprising b) at least one compound of formula (II) selected from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyl lysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methyl histidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, their salts, or combinations of two or more thereof, preferably comprising glycine betaine.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising d) at least one ester chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, or combinations thereof, preferably having a molecular weight greater than about 300 g / mol.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising d) at least one ester chosen from C22-C30 esters, preferably C24-C28 esters, branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the total amount of amino acids and their salts ranges from about 1% to about 15%, preferably from about 1.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 8%, and most preferably from about 2.5% to about 7.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the total amount of osmolytes ranges from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the total amount of esters ranges from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.75% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising d) at least one ester chosen from esters of branched C24-C28 fatty acids or fatty alcohols, preferably comprising pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and f) at least one vegetable oil, preferably comprising ucuuba butter.
10. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition comprises ucuuba butter and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and has a weight ratio of ucuuba butter:pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate of from about 0.1 to about 1, preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.8, more preferably from about 0.3 to about 0.6, and most preferably from about 0.3 to about 0.5.